TRENDS IN APPAREL & FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM THE TREND SETTERS INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS IN DESIGN, PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & TEXTILE INNOVATION. 2016 FOOTWEAR REPORT MILITARY OUTLOOK TECH INNOVATION SUPPLY CHAIN NEWS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION A breakthrough fi ber innovation you have to feel to believe. Eastman Avra performance fi bers wick better, dry faster, and keep you at your coolest and most comfortable. AVRAfromEastman.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 Executive Editor Mark Sullivan [email protected] 646-319-7878 Editor /Associate Publisher Emily Walzer [email protected] Managing Editor Cara Griffin Art Director Francis Klaess Associate Art Director Mary McGann Contributing Editors Suzanne Blecher Kurt Gray Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Kathlyn Swantko Publisher Jeff Nott [email protected] 516-305-4711 Advertising Jeff Gruenhut [email protected] 404-467-9980 Christina Henderson 516-305-4710 [email protected] Troy Leonard [email protected] 352-624-1561 Katie O’Donohue [email protected] 828-244-3043 Sam Selvaggio [email protected] 212-398-5021 Production Brandon Christie 516 305-4712 [email protected] Business Manager Marianna Rukhvarger 516-305-4709 [email protected] Kingpins Show, New York. Subscriptions store.formula4media.com Formula4 Media Publications 6 / In the Market 28 / Made in America Sports Insight A recap of seasonal trade fairs focused on active trends, Performance, price and delivery were top of mind at Outdoor Insight Footwear Insight denim and technical textiles along with reports on eco the recent Joint Advanced Planning Brief for Industry Inside Insight Team Insight developments, the latest retail openings, and news of ITG (JAPBI) event where attendees got both big picture Textile Insight acquired by Platinum Equity. perspective and category-specific information about a Running Insight Trend Insight range of military matters. sportstyle 16 / Tech PO Box 23-1318 Although sustainability remains a key factor, execs 30 / Supply Chain Great Neck , NY 11023 Phone: 516-305-4710 emphasize that biomaterial products and technologies are The next wave of apparel industrialization is upon us, Fax: 516-441-5692 www.formula4media.com now evolving to create better performance from the least with rapid-fire advances in digital integration, mass Textile Insight® is a registered trademark impact, and this bodes well for growth in the bio sector. customization and speed to market strategies. Writer of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2016 All Debra Cobb reports on emerging supply chain models. rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Textile 18 / Cover Story Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not This special section, our 5th annual directory, identifies 32 / Education responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, talented, forward-thinking individuals who are influencing Self-healing textile research shows promise at Penn photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Textile Insight may not be the direction of the active/outdoor market with textile State University, according to writer Kathlyn Swantko reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. development and whiz-bang apparel, footwear, and who reports on a collaborative effort to create textiles Textile Insight is published bi-monthly: accessory product design. that can repair themselves, and neutralize chemicals. Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec. Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 26 / Footwear 34 / Out of Context (U.S. Funds) in the United States. All other Intriguing efforts in next-gen domestic footwear production Kurt Gray explains how having one foot in local countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds). are taking shape. Here Jennifer Ernst Beaudry provides an manufacturing, and one foot in traditional street retail, Postmaster: Send address changes to Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 overview of how players in the shoe biz are innovating and has a certain magic to it. Great Neck, NY 11023 investing in new manufacturing methods. TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER Mark Twain, Tailor-Made Shirts and More eople love the Fall season for all sorts of reasons—leaves changing color, football games, bingeing on Candy Corn, and the list goes on and on. But here at Textile Insight, the months of October and November mean spending time with top designers and product developers as we gather intel for our annual Trendsetters directory. For me, it’s an opportunity to hang with the cool kids; for a finite time PI’m part of this inner circle of creative types, learning their obsessions, laughing at off-beat comments, and listening to personal pet peeves. Every year I work on our Trendsetters feature, I enjoy the experience even more. How can I not when my interview questions include responses such as these: • Jonathan Cheung, head of global design, Levi’s on the best design advice he’s ever recieved: “Mark Twain summed it all up: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did so. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” • Craig Vanderoef, Global Category Manager, Running at Adidas, offered a brilliant description when asked about his signature look. “Most days you will see me in a dark slim fitting Italian suit, usually a superfine merino from Paul Smith or Gutteridge, that I pair with a light colored slim fit dress shirt with a wide spread collar. I have my shirts made by Leon at Beaux Tailor in Hong Kong because I am really particular about fabrics, fits, and finishing and Leon never lets me down.” And he’s just getting started. You’ll find these and a dozen other wonderful responses starting on Page 18. As everyone is well aware, change is in the air. At Textile Insight we take a positive approach, with articles that highlight innovation, technology and collaboration. Our Footwear and Supply Chain stories, for instance report on new manufacturing methods revolutionizing product development and delivery. Exciting change is also happening in the world of denim, as producers are giving the yoga pant trend a real run for its money. Louisa Smith’s Euro Report provides examples of movers and shakers advancing denim. This issue of Textile Insight is slated to land on your desk and/or your inbox as the holidays approach. I’d like to wish everyone happy times, and a year ahead that is defined by progress, equality and civility. Cheers, Emily FRESH IDEAS. INNOVATIVE MINDS. SUCCESSFUL SOLUTIONS. Outdoor Retailer SIA Sourcing Snow Performance Days OUTDOOR ISPO www.conceptiii.com U.S./Canada: [email protected] 732.530.1976 Europe: [email protected] +44.1756.702100 4 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 IN THE MARKET | INTERFILIÈRE NEW YORK Leisure Leads the Way with Crossover Looks & Fabric Options. By Emily Walzer Finding Common Ground Eurovet Americas, a subsidiary of designed as streetwear and beach- Paris-based Eurovet, the trade fair wear, though not for swimming. combines textiles with market direc- Berry focused on innovation tion attracting a fashion and fabric surrounding sports bras. “Sports savvy crowd. bras are the racing cars of our Now in it’s fourth year, Interfilière industry,” she asserted. “Creative New York continues to grow and engineering is happening. The expand. According to show orga- sports bra is going into everyday nizers, the show attracted 500 wardrobe,” explained Berry who visitors—a 30 percent increase com- cited engineered jacquards, lamina- pared to 2015—from a multitude tion, spacer fabrics, body mapping of companies varying in size, rang- and influence from the hosiery ing from established, well known world as factors at play in today’s brands to young designers to meet marketplace. “It’s about the coming face-to-face with a select group of 40 together of sport, street and sexi- international mills. ness,” Berry concluded. The active space is taking hold Vendors expressed similar within Eurovet’s Interfilière shows ideas. “There is more and more and this aspect was a draw at the crossover happening. There are recent Manhattan gathering. Brands no boundaries anymore. It is tricky with an athleisure/sport point of for mills, but that is the trend,” view included A&H Sportswear, commented Sofileta’s sales director Brooks, Eastern Mountain Sports, Virginia Wittmer. Sofileta is a Espalier, Fila, Fitmama, Lululemon vertically integrated mill in France and Oiselle. known for fabrics suited for yoga, “Things are going in an active fitness and swim. The majority of direction, from silks and stretch Sofileta textiles are nylon with a lace, all textiles are finding performance collection known as opportunities in activewear,” Nylon Tech. “What’s important is Textile trend boards were a big hit with an you say “Leisuree?” stated Marie Mangeot, International the hand, the feel and the visual,” attendees, as was Invista’s fashion show What about Promotions, Eurovet Americas. said Wittmer. “Ninety-nine percent featuring active apparel made with Lycra. “Swimtimates?” These “Anybody can start a technical of the time this is the priority in a Cnew, descriptive hybrid conversation with the mills here.” purchase. Then we go to weight, buzzwords are evidence of the Vendors included 48 mills with functionality and tech specs.” strengthening crossover movement collections in intimates, swim and Markus Regenstein, CEO, of between market segments that is active. German mill Penn Textile Solutions, blurring the lines and de-classifying “The show is good,” commented explained how the company’s apparel categories. This “no Kelly Barrett, buyer for Australian expertise in modulus and compres- boundaries” approach is the company Star Corp Textiles. “I sion for intimates and shapewear latest tangent of the athleisure really liked the intimacy because has expanded to performance wear phenomena that industry execs you can have good conversations.