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ISBN 9781873341032 Photo: PhilBlack Delta Force (6c+)-page104atthemagnificentlysituatedCraigArthur. This page:MarkGlaistersettingoffupthefinalexposed grooveof Photo: KeithSharples venue forhigh-standardsportclimbing. Traction Trauma (6c+)-page171atDinbren,Clwyd'smostpopular Cover: JulianHeathontheimmaculateverticalface climbingof copyright owner. A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish mechanical, photocopying written orotherwisewithoutprior ofthe permission a retrieval system, ortransmitted inany form orby any means, electronic, reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart bereproduced, stored in rockfax.com © ROCKFAX 2015 Published by ROCKFAX inDecember2015 from openstreetmap.org. sourceSome mapsbasedonoriginal data All mapsby ROCKFAX Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk). (ISO 14001 andEMAS printers). certified Printed inEurope onbehalfofLatitudePress Ltd. Edited by Alan James. Action photography by Glaister Mark orascredited. by Glaister Mark andLeeProctor. Text, topos andcrag photography Lee Proctor Glaister Mark Clwyd Limestone from sustainable forestry made from 100% virgin fibre sourced paper This bookisprinted onFSCcertified

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area

Contents rainy dayand plentyofshade.Photo: Tim Glasby it provides anoptionfor a climbs on it. Oncedry overhanging eastwall withasetoftoughsport an impressivegashin thehillsidewithits25m Canyon Mark PrettyontheDevil's GorgeclassicGrand Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Map andGeneral Index . Crag Index Route Index Outlying Areas . Trevor Area . Dinbren . Pinfold Eglwyseg Valley . Ruthin andMold Area . Grades Access Clwyd Limestone Climbing . Accommodation Clwyd Limestone Logistics Acknowledgements Introduction (7b+) Pontesford Rocks . Llanymynech Quarry Pandy Outcrop . Ruabon Quarry Independence Quarry Trevor Quarry Monk's Buttress Twilight Area . Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot . HoleQuarry . Maeshafn Quarry Devil's Gorge Ruthin . Escarpment . Denbigh Castle Quarry Destination Planner Trad Graded List. Graded List. Sport Gear andBolting Climbing Walls andCafes Pubs andClimbingShops Getting Around andMaps Previous Guidebooks. Symbol, Mapand Topo Key RockfaxThe App - page 55.TheDevil'sGorgeis ...... 230 224 264 263 258 252 222 221 196 198 215 160 128 154

116 52 20 96 82 80 70 58 44 42 40 36 34 32 30 28 26 24 22 38 16 18 76 12 10 8 9 4 3

Ruthin Area The long moorland covered spine of the Clwydian hills runs down the Welsh side of the northern borders of Wales and England and is dotted with picturesque villages and beautiful isolated valleys. Lurking toward the southern end of the range is the Eglwyseg valley - a

Devil's Gorge spectacular layered escarpment of limestone that provides the centrepiece of climbing in the region and this guidebook.

The Eglwyseg valley is set high above the tourist trap of Llangollen and its magnificent Maeshafn frontage can only be fleetingly glimpsed from the main A5 road that rushes people on toward Snowdonia. However, for those that make the surprisingly short diversion up into the valley a revelation of fine limestone crags and climbing awaits. The line of natural cliffs has four main Pot Hole Quarry sections that begin in the narrowing head of the valley at World's End and conclude at the unbroken strip of Dinbren. Both traditional and sport climbs are numerous in the valley with the easily-accessed Dinbren now firmly established on the destination list of must-visit sport

Minera Quarry crags. Its concentration of high quality and well equipped lines and wonderful outlook are guaranteed to maintain the crag's popularity, and even though new routes have been steadily added over the last decade there is still some space left for more. Moving up the valley is the long Pinfold escarpment, and the towering rampart of Craig Arthur. These tend to be quieter World's End but are both excellent destinations plastered with superb sport and trad climbs. Finally, just as the valley pinches and opens out onto the moors, is World's End - an enduring traditional venue that still attracts those after some good amenable trad routes. Craig Arthur As the Eglwyseg valley fans out opposite the hilltop ruin of Castell Dinas the escarpment has been quarried in the distant past. The string of quarried faces have now been fully developed

Twilight Area into a very popular sport climbing area known collectively as Trevor Area. The plethora of routes and stunning outlook are just two of many reasons to visit.

To the north of Eglwyseg Valley are several limestone quarries. Some are quaint trad spots

Pinfold such as Pot Hole and Maeshafn quarries. For the harder climber, the narrow defile of Devil's Gorge, once dried out, has some good stamina sport routes. Monk's ButtressMonk's Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech

The low quarried walls of the Trevor Area are home to some great sport routes in the 4 to 6 grade range. The climbing in this Pontesford area has become very popular offering plenty of options, an easy approach and stunning views out over Castell Dinas to the Berwyn mountains and beyond. In this photo of the Suspect Wall a climber 4 is surmounting the overhang of No Remittal (6a) - page 211. Mark Glaister, November 2015 -itwillhavestyles somethingto ofclimbers enticethevast ofallabilities. majority bigger topos andmore crags. The bookcovers awidegrade spaninboththetrad andsport the area. The bookbuilds ontheprevious Clwyd Limestone Rockfax withmany more routes, This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers andtrad climbingavailable allofthesport virtually in some ofthefinestlocationsin Welsh andShropshire hills. well over decades. two BothPandy Outcrop andPontesford Rocks have delightfulclimbingin long-established easiernon-limestone trad cliffs thathave notappeared inaguidebookfor news ofclimbingandsheltered ofitsquality aspecthave spread. two outliers areThe final destination -itshugewalls spanthegrades from 6ato 7battracting ever more interest as is avast thathasbeendeveloped abandonedworking to climbing give amajorsport South oftheClwyd are three outlying crags different very incharacter. Llanymynech Quarry Introduction Clwyd LimestoneClwyd 5

Black Wall (E1 5b) - page 246. Black Wall

South of the Clwydian range and very sheltered from poor weather coming from the west is the massive quarry of Llanymynech. The quarry is a nature reserve and has a number of huge walls that provide plenty of excellent sport and trad climbs. Given reasonable weather many of the best climbs can be climbed year round. Here a climber is just about to make a rightward traverse to finish the fine 6 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford the Rockfax App version -seepage8for more information. This bookisalsothefirst Rockfax to bebrought outatthesametimeas also hascrag symbols for aquick glancecheck -seekey onpage9. level. You canselectacrag from thecrag tables onpage38. Eachtopo routes andcrags dependingonspecific weather conditionsor your ability from left-to-right. There are many otherfeatures to helpchoosesuitable route. All route are descriptions onthesamepageastheir topo andlisted crag, thengetto thebuttress andfinally of locateyour chosen thestart you shouldnever have more to thanafew turn pagesto first get to the standard. Ourfundamental aimhasn'tchangedthoughandthatis cutting-edge actionphotography, GPSnavigation andQRcodesnow guidebook production hasmoved onapacewithlarger photo topos, Even intherelatively 10 short year sincethelastedition, period any guidebookfor well over decades. two rock, are geographically nottoo distant andhave notbeenfeatured in Pandy Outcrop andPontesford Rocks which,althoughformed ofigneous to theprevious Rockfax bookpublished in2005. New additionsinclude This editionoftheClwyd Limestone Rockfax guidecovers asimilararea Coverage Introduction Clwyd LimestoneClwyd 7

Ruthin Area The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC Logbooks and presents it in a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow in 2016). Devil's Gorge The heart of the App is the Rockfax crag and route information which is downloaded by way of paid in-App purchases for individual crags, or bundles of crags, in 'Areas' which correspond roughly to printed Maeshafn guidebooks. You can purchase each crag individually, or the whole book. The main data on the App is downloaded and stored on your device so you don't need any signal to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. There is a free Pot Hole Quarry sample crag for each area and some of these are quite extensive enabling you to get a really good impression of what the App is like, without shelling out any money.

Minera Quarry The Rockfax App itself is a free download and incredibly useful in its own right. It contains a detailed crag map World's End linked to the UKClimbing crags database (currently with basic information and routes

Craig Arthur lists for around 20,000 crags worldwide). The map also displays all the 4,000+ listings

Twilight Area from the UKClimbing Directory of climbing walls, outdoor shops, climbing clubs, outdoor- specific accommodation

Pinfold and instructors and guides amongst others.

Monk's ButtressMonk's To find the App, search for 'Rockfax App' in Google or on the appropriate store. The current Rockfax books Dinbren with App versions are shown on the inside back cover flap.

UKC Logbooks Trevor Area An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com logbooks system. This database lists more than 338,000 routes, over 19,800 crags and, so far, more than 28,000 users have recorded over 4.2 million ascents! To set up your own Pandy Outcrop logbook all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the logbook tab. Once set up you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in and who you did it with. Each entry has a place for your own notes. You

Llanymynech can also add your vote to the grade/star system linked to a database on the Rockfax site used by the guidebook writers. The logbook can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only. The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that Pontesford you can record your activity while at the crag and look at photos, comments and votes on the routes. To do this you will need a 3G/4G data connection. You can also look at the UKC logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your chosen route recently to check on conditions. Symbol, Map and Topo Key Clwyd Limestone 9

Route Symbols Topo Key

1 A good route which is well worth the effort. Ruthin Area Descent 2 A very good route, one of the best on the crag. Crag-top Approximate belay

A brilliant route, one of the best in the Clwyd area. Abseil vertical Lower-off Gorge Devil's 3 line height >30m A significant route which is one of the best of its 35m 4 type and grade in the book. Maeshafn Technical climbing requiring good balance and t technique, or complex and tricky moves. Variation Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock- (see route description) p offs or long moves off small holds. Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or Hole QuarryPot s steep rock giving pumpy climbing. Approximate Fingery climbing with significant small holds on vertical f the hard sections. height <30m Minera Quarry Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary 20m h run-outs.

A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one End World's r or more of the moves. l Some loose rock may be encountered. Crag Symbols Sport route ArthurCraig (yellow dash) Route on Angle of the approach walk to the crag with another page S14 min approximate time. Trad route Twilight Area Twilight Approximate time that the crag is in the direct sun (white dash) E (when it is shining). The crag is exposed to bad weather and will catch 1 2 Pinfold $ the wind if it is blowing. 3

The crag can offer shelter from cold winds and it Buttress on another page Approach * may be a good suntrap in colder weather. page

The crag suffers from seepage. It may well be wet Monk's Buttress @ and unclimbable in winter and early spring. Map Key

The crag is steep and may well offer some dry Dinbren Scale rock to climb when it is raining. ! Scree Woods Some or all of the routes have a restriction due to

C nesting birds. Details in the crag information. A Crag Trevor Area Trevor Some or all of the routes are affected by an access page Trees GPS Coordinates X problem. Details in the crag information. of parking B Roads Additional Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet. Town/village parking Fewer good routes or remote and smaller areas. Outcrop Pandy Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, QR code for or good buttresses with awkward approaches. Train smartphone station navigation Llanymynech

Busy - Places you will seldom be alone, especially map for scan

at weekends. Good routes and easy access. A Roads Crowded - The most popular sections of the most Building

popular crags which are always busy. Campsite Pontesford Previous Guidebooks Previous Guidebook Footnote - Topos and new route route and new Topos - Clwyd Limestone

The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a righta upon climb rightthe or access of to have you that mean not does guidebook this in area climbing a of inclusion The should be placed on and no reliance only reasons historical for recorded within this guide are The descriptions of routes it. Climbers of the climbs. assessment of the difficulty a fair set in this guide are The grades of the description. the accuracy to enough proficient are whether they judgment as to of a particular should use their own a route standard who attempt and distributors publisher The authors, judgment. and proper experience for is not a substitute This book that route. tackle parties, third or property climbers, arising or by, injury liability any for or damage caused to, of this book do not recognise safety. their own for on this guidebook as an assurance seeking reliance such persons from Non Rockfax/UKC Website route information: route Website Non Rockfax/UKC sportsclimbs.co.uk on Gary site. web Gibson's developments Clwyd Limestone Clwyd 2005) (Rockfax Mark Glaister Lee Proctor, Clwyd Rock Clwyd 1993) Press Gary (Cicerone Dickinson West Midlands Rock West 1988) Press (Cicerone Doug Kerr Clwyd Limestone Clwyd 1983) Stuart Press Cathcart (Cicerone and Route Information Route and of Clwyd crags on the limestone The climbing has been documented neighbours and its outlying all those to very grateful are We since the 1970s. The key guidebooks. on previous worked who have below. listed books are Key Previous Guidebooks Previous Key 10 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford Previous Guidebooks routes upto 40minlength.Photo: KeithSharples exposed wall oflimestone,which hasamixoftradand sport the SunnysideArea,Craig Arthur. CraigArthurisalargeand Top 50sportpitchTheseFoolishThings (7a+) Clare Readingperched on theheadwalloflongandvaried Clwyd LimestoneClwyd - page 114-at 11

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area

Acknowledgements

Clwyd Limestone 12 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford Mark Glaister andLeeProctor, November 2015 of thisguidebook. James andtheRockfax/UKC team ontheproduction It hasasever beenapleasure to with work Alan Rose, Ryan McConnell, Rob Mirfin, John Warner. John Stringfellow, Craig Bailey, Patricia Novelli, Dave Keith SophieBaring, PhilBlack, Sharples, Paul Cox, appeal ofthisguidebook-Mike Hutton, Tim Glasby, shots thatmake suchahugecontribution to the of and beenthesubjectsofsuperbportfolio A massive thankyou to allthose whohave taken Braithwaite. Morgan, John Stringfellow, Collier Bridget andSarah Lucy Creamer, Craig Bailey, Steve Mattock, Ellie PaulRoberts, Cox, MrGuyKennaway, Mr Thomas, Cathcart, Hallett,AllyStuart Smith,Marti Debbie Mirfin, Dave Rose, PhilBlack, AlisonMartindale, Clarke, EdBooth,Patricia Novelli, ElfynJones, Rob Nick Dixon, Ryan McConnell, Luke Owens, Luke Morgan, Allister McNeil- Wrekin MC, Karl Smith, of Clwyd Gibson,Rob Limestone -Gary Watt, Gary have helpedinsomeway to puttogether thisedition We would like to thankallthoselisted below who Acknowledgements the Clwyd crags thatareworthy ofattention.Photo: Patricia Novelli climbs on this crag,therearemany classictradroutes scatteredallalong 171 -atDinbren.Although themajorityofvisitorsnowtacklesport Sue Hazelintheupper cornerofthetrickytradpitchAlison Clwyd LimestoneClwyd theboardroomclimbing.com The Boardroom - plaspoweradventure.com Plas Power - pyb.co.uk Plas yBrenin - highsports.co.uk -Insideback coverHigh Sports dmmclimbing.com DMM -Outsideback cover berghaus.com Berghaus - awesomewalls.co.uk Awesome- Walls guidebook: advertisers whohave this supported Rockfax grateful is very to thefollowing Inside front cover Page 25 Page 23 Page 2 Back cover flap (E1 5b)-page 13

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area

Clwyd Logistics Limestone 14 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford the route's memorablecrux.Photo: KeithSharples Bailey prior tounlockingthepuzzling rockoverthatprovides of theclassicClimbHigh (7a) -page171arelinkedbyCraig climbing.Inthispicturethesubtlegrooves andpockets fingery and Dinbren, itslonglow wall providingamixofpowerful Immaculate limestone isthebigdrawonLeftWingof 15

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area 2 7 18 Dec 4 10 15 Nov 7 16 14 Oct 11 10 18 Sep 11 12 21 Aug 10 12 21 Jul 10 10 19 Jun 8 11 16 May 5 11 13 Apr 3 10 17 Mar Mountain RescueMountain 8 2 14 Feb 8 2 18 Jan Logistics Clwyd Limestone In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: of Mountain the assistance requiring of an accident event In the Dial 112 and ask for 'POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE' 'POLICE - MOUNTAIN ask for and Dial 112 'Mountain Rescue' will immediately redirect you to people who know the area well. the area know people who to you redirect will immediately Rescue' 'Mountain could be a long way from your current location. This can cause delays in the rescue in the rescue delays This can cause location. current your from long way could be a procedure as the authorities try and track down where the injured party is. Asking for Asking for party the injured where as the authorities down try is. procedure and track

Temperature ˚C Temperature

This is very important since just asking for 'Police' will redirect you to a switchboard which a switchboard to you will redirect This is very 'Police' importantasking for since just Average Min Temp (˚C) Temp Min Average Average Max Temp (˚C) Temp Max Average Approx. Rain Days/Month Rain Approx. winter months and are exposed to rain and wind, but once in condition, have little seepage. little once in condition, have but and wind, rain to exposed and are months winter The trad crags of Pandy Outcrop and Pontesford Rocks are usually out of condition in the usually are Rocks and Pontesford Outcrop of Pandy crags The trad during the colder months as it takes little seepage and gets the sun early in the day. in the day. seepage and gets the sun early little during the colder months as it takes Llanymynech is a great choice when gales are roaring from the west and can be excellent and can be excellent the west from roaring are when gales choice is a great Llanymynech out of condition in humid weather, although it is rainproof once the seepage has dried up. once the seepage has dried up. although it is rainproof out of condition in humid weather, the colder months. The Devil's Gorge has a climate of its own and even in summer can be and even of its own has a climate Gorge The Devil's the colder months. Maeshafn and Pot Hole Quarrries are year-round venues as long as the sun is out during as long as the sun venues year-round Quarrries Hole are Maeshafn and Pot some pleasant days out of the wind and in the sun. of the wind and in the sun. out some pleasant days away if there is a wind blowing from the west. Cold stable weather in winter does allow for for does allow in winter weather stable Cold the west. from blowing is a wind if there away autumn when the air temperature is warm and seepage will be less of an issue, but keep keep but is warm be less of an issue, and seepage will autumn when the air temperature The best time to visit the higher crags in the Eglwyseg valley is from early spring to late late spring early to is from valley in the Eglwyseg visit the higher crags The best time to When to Go to When More information and other travel tips are at information-britain.co.uk tips are and other travel information More - The Music Hall, The Square, Shrewsbury. Tel: 01743 258888 01743 Tel: Shrewsbury. The Square, The Music Hall, - Shrewsbury - Lambpit Street, Wrexham. Tel: 01978 292015 01978 Tel: Wrexham. - Lambpit Street, Wrexham - Earl Road, Mold. Tel: 01352 759331 01352 Tel: Mold. Mold - Earl Road, - Y Chapel, Castle Street, Llangollen. Tel: 01978 860828 01978 Tel: Llangollen. Street, Y Chapel, Castle Llangollen - possible to include in these pages. to possible a look at the Tourist Information Centres. They contain a lot more useful information than it is useful information a lot more contain They Centres. Information Tourist a look at the Tourist Information Centres Information Tourist take or need some accommodation, short day do on a wet are about what to If you of ideas varies dependant upon provider. varies All of the crags featured in this guide have mobile coverage although the quality although the of signal coverage mobile in this guide have featured All of the crags Mobile Phones 16 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford

Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Logistics Photo: Ryan McConnell on Dinbren's RightWingTrailer Trash (6b)- page 183. popularsportroutes Leon Bowenononeof thevery 17

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area 18 Clwyd Limestone Logistics Getting Around and Maps Ruthin Area Getting Around About 1km The starting points for approaches to the crags

Devil's Gorge are all easily reached by car and the approach descriptions are written World's End assuming you have access p.82 Maeshafn to a car. Craig Arthur p.96 For those travelling to the Pot Hole Quarry area on public transport a good number of the crags

can be reached without too Twilight Area

Minera Quarry much walking. Maeshafn, p.116

Pot Hole Quarry and The A542 Pinfold Devil's Gorge are within p.128 easy walking distance World's End of buses from Mold. The Monk's Buttress lower Eglwyseg Valley p.154 Dinbren (Trevor Area and Dinbren) Valle Crucis p.160 Craig Arthur is walkable from Llangollen Abbey in about half an hour. Both Chester and Shrewsbury Abbey Farm

Twilight Area are serviced by fast train Trevor Quarry services but trains are less A5 p.198 useful for penetrating the Castell area more deeply. There Dinas Bran

Pinfold are local trains to Buckley, Independence Quarry p.215 Wrexham, Chirk and School Gobowen. Llangollen can Wern Isaf A539 Monk's ButtressMonk's be reached by bus from Farm Chester or Shrewsbury. A5 Llangollen Llanymynech and Llangollen Pontesford Rocks can also Hostel

Dinbren be reached by bus from Shrewsbury.

Trevor Area Buses - The website traveline.info is an excellent place to get a quick idea of links and times of bus services. The tourist information centres are also useful for travel information. Trains - For timetable information go to thetrainline.com Pandy Outcrop Satellite Navigation GPS 54.060178 All the parking spots are indicated with a precise GPS location. This is in the form -2.154509

Llanymynech of two decimal numbers as in the sample blue box. Different GPS devices accept these numbers in alternative formats. QR codes (right) have also been included. You can scan the QR code using an app map for scan such as Scan (for iOS) or Google Goggles (for Android) and choose to open the Pontesford result direct into the Google Maps navigation app on your phone. p.44 Ruthin Escarpment Denbigh Denbigh Castle Quarry A5 Dublin A494 Getting AroundGetting andMaps p.42 Glasgow Campsite Station Station Ruthin Outdoor p.70 Quarry Hole Pot Nantyr Nantyr Centre Manchester Birmingham A525 London A5104 p.224 Pandy Outcrop Campsite Gweryd Gweryd Lakes Lakes Glyn Ceiriog Glyn Devil's Gorge Eglwyseg Valley Eglwyseg p.80 Llangollen A494 Welshpool p.230 Llanymynech A495 p.52 Gwernymynydd Mold Maeshafn Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Logistics A483 p.58 Buckley Trevor Minera Quarry Llanymynech About 10km Rhosllanerchrugog Oswestry Shotton A483 Chirk Ruabon Gobowen Ruabon Quarry p.76 Wrexham A495 p.221 A483 A55 Ellesmere Chester A458 A534 A5 A525 Pontesford Rocks Pontesford A528 p.252 Shrewsbury 19

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area Tel: 01978 861297 01978 Tel: Accommodation wernisaf.co.uk stationcampsite.com See map on page 18/19 for locations See for page 18/19 map on Logistics Clwyd Limestone

Contact local tourist information offices for more details - see page 16. details more for offices information local tourist Contact bed and breakfasts in Llangollen, Mold, Ruthin and in the surrounding villages and farms. and farms. villages and in the surrounding Mold, Ruthin in Llangollen, bed and breakfasts Not Camping many are There and accommodation plentiful. is popular with tourists area The Clwyd and Hostels Camping - Close to Pandy Outcrop. Good for groups - www.nantyr.co.uk groups Good for Outcrop. Pandy - Close to Nantyr Outdoor Centre and Bank Holidays. at weekends be very busy Can - llangollenhostel.co.uk in town evenings and crags for - Convenient Llangollen Hostel Large tent and caravan site just north of Llangollen and close to pubs that serve food. just north site pubs that serve food. of Llangollen and close to and caravan tent Large 780230 01824 Tel: Abbey Farm Caravan Park, Llangollen - abbeyfarmcaravans.co.uk Llangollen Park, Caravan Farm Abbey cliffs. valley Quarries Hole the main Eglwyseg and between Maeshafn/Pot midway Site A nice site 10km west of Llangollen. Tel: 01490 430237 01490 Tel: of Llangollen. west 10km A nice site - gwerydlakes.co.uk Llanarmon-yn-lal Lakes Camping, Gweryd Station Campsite, Carrog - Carrog Station Campsite, distance of the Eglwyseg crags. Tel: 01978 860632 01978 Tel: crags. Eglwyseg of the distance The best option for those without a car. It is only 1km from Llangollen and within walking within walking Llangollen and 1km from It is only without a car. those for The best option Wern Isaf Farm, Llangollen - Llangollen Isaf Farm, Wern listed below are the best for reaching the crags from. from. the crags reaching the best for are below listed There are a number of campsites and hostels within easy reach of the crags but those but crags of the reach easy within hostels and of campsites a number are There 20 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford Accommodation Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Logistics the previous guidebook.Photo: Phil BlackCollection with many others, havebeenput upatDinbrensince 168 -attheClimbHighArea, Dinbren.Thisroute,along Phil Blackonthethere starExtremeWays(7c) - page 21

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area The Sun Inn at Trevor is a The Sun Inn at Trevor popular choice of climbers looking for a good après- climb pint and food. Pubs and Climbing Shops Climbing and Pubs High Sports 51/52, Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury. 231649 01743 Tel: highsports.co.uk cover inside back See advert Climbing Shop Climbing Druid Inn - Llanferres Druid Pot for is very pub that Good convenient Hole Quarry. The - Maeshafn Arms Miners Maeshafn Quarry. close to In the village Three We Loggerheads Country pub in Loggerheads Park Roadside Hole Pot Maeshafn Quarry, from not far Quarry Gorge. and Devil's Logistics Clwyd Limestone

Good little spot in the village near to quarry. spot in the village near to Good little The Dolphin Inn - Llanymynech to Pandy Outcrop. Pandy to Community-owned pub in the village closest Community-owned - Glyn Ceiriog The Oak - Glyn main road to the east of Pontesbury. to main road Nearest pub for Pontesford Rocks. On the Rocks. Pontesford pub for Nearest Nag's Head - Pontesbury Nag's centre of Llangollen. centre Lively riverside pub and restaurant in the pub and restaurant riverside Lively The Corn Mill - Llangollen The Corn the Trevor Quarries and Dinbren. Trevor the Trevor. Popular with climbers and close to and close to with climbers Popular Trevor. On the A539 between and Llangollen On the The Sun - Trevor good après-climb drink and food. good après-climb some of the best for those seeking out a those best for some of the by this book, but those listed below are are below those listed this book, but by Pubs covered in the area pubs many are There 22 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford

Climbing Walls and Cafes and Walls Climbing Cafes Valley and Eglwyseg Trevor It is is excellent. Rooms Tea Garden Prospect Trevor that runs below the road signed from Quarry. Hole Quarry Pot Maeshafn, Gorge, Devil's outside. Nice seating Cafe. Loggerheads Park Cafe. Village Pantry - Llanymynech Rocks Pontesford village of Pontesbury. in shop in nearby Cafe Llangollen the to next The Dee Side Cafe Has lots of cafes. is good. the river bridge over North West North West Face St Anns Warrington. Church, northwestface.com Centre Climbing Shropshire Newport, Shropshire. newportrock.com Centre Climbing Oswestry Oswestry. Maesbury Road, oswestryclimbingcentre.co.uk Logistics Clwyd Limestone

See advert opposite See advert plaspoweradventure.com Tel: 01978 754747 01978 Tel: See advert on back cover flap cover on back See advert 5SZ. LL11 Wrexham), (near theboardroomclimbing.com Southsea, Road, Plas Power Tel: 01244 537476 01244 Tel: Climbing Centre Wrexham CH5 2DH. CH5 2DH. Pentre, Queensferry, Queensferry, Pentre, See advert on page 2 on page See advert Est., Ind. Lane Rectors awesomewalls.co.uk The Boardroom Tel: 0151 2982422 0151 Tel: Liverpool, L5 9TN. Liverpool, L5 9TN. St Albans Athol Church, Street, Awesome Walls - Liverpool Walls Awesome

More information at ukclimbing.com/walls/ information More Climbing Walls Climbing outside climbing when times of year those For well are walls climbing the following isn't possible, worth considering. One of many cafes in Llangollen - a few minutes crags. from many of the popular Eglwyseg Valley 24 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford

26 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford Limestone Climbing Clwyd crag since the previousRockfax waspublishedin2005. Photo:MikeHutton 174 -atTheBandits Area,Dinbren - oneofmanynewlines establishedatthe Buys tacklesthesuper steepstartofOutBodyExperience(7c+) equipping areexcellent andtheoutlookmagnificent.Inthisimage Jordan looking forhardsport climbsinthe6th,7thand8thgrades.The rockand The extensiveuppertier ofDinbrenisClwyd'smajordestination forthose - page 27

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area Bird restriction marker. Bird restriction marker. Climbing only to be undertaken between the green arrows when restriction is in place. Climbing access information sign at Trevor Quarry. Climbing access information sign at Trevor Access Climbing Clwyd Limestone There are some restrictions at certain some restrictions are times of year There The symbols. the red a look out for so please keep

thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ contact the BMC (Tel: 0161 445 6111), or check the access section of the BMC website - website the access section of the BMC or check 445 6111), 0161 the BMC (Tel: contact carefully and take great care not to infringe these necessary restrictions. If in any doubt If in any infringe these necessary not to care restrictions. great and take carefully Individual crag access is covered in the respective chapters. Please read this information this information Please read chapters. in the respective access is covered Individual crag permission before you visit Maeshafn Quarry. you permission before Other crags have very precise parking and approach requirements. You will need to seek will need to You requirements. parking very and approach precise have Other crags to avoid that area even if there is no agreed restriction and report the BMC. restriction to is no agreed if there even that area avoid to taking off and landing in the same spot, as well as aggressive flying in circles) then it is best flying in circles) as aggressive well and landing in the same spot, as off taking Check UKC or BMC RAD if you are unsure. If you see agitated birds (lots of screeching and (lots of screeching birds see agitated If you unsure. are UKC or BMC RAD if you Check and the absence of an agreed restriction does not mean that there are no nesting birds. nesting birds. no are that there does not mean restriction an agreed and the absence of only take place between the green arrows. Birds do nest in previously unrestricted areas areas unrestricted do nest in previously Birds place between arrows. green take the only at the base of the crag like the one shown above are usually in place and climbing should usually are above shown the one like at the base of the crag Where a bird restriction applies to a section of the crag rather than the whole crag markers markers than the whole crag rather of the crag a section to applies restriction a bird Where generally range from the beginning of February to the end of July. the end of July. the beginning of February to from range generally restrictions are usually because of nesting birds and the dates and the dates because of nesting birds usually are restrictions

access arrangements. access arrangements. its volunteers, most of the crags in this book currently have good have in this book currently most of the crags its volunteers, CX past. Despite this, and thanks to the great work and of the BMC the great and thanks to this, Despite past. gardening and dogs have all been causes for disagreements in the disagreements causes for all been and dogs have gardening Limestone. Nesting birds, flora, historical sites, land ownership, ownership, land sites, historical flora, birds, Nesting Limestone. access issues on the various crags covered in this edition of Clwyd edition of Clwyd in this covered crags on the various access issues Access been always have UK there in the areas most climbing As with 28 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford

30 Clwyd Limestone Climbing Gear and Bolting

Ruthin Area Gear Most of the sport routes described in this book have good solid bolts and lower-offs in Devil's Gorge place. For the vast majority of routes a 60m rope and 14 quickdraws is sufficient to climb them. However, there are a number of lines that will require a longer rope to get down Maeshafn (and probably more quickdraws). To avoid any doubt, always tie a stopper knot in the

Pot Hole Quarry dead end of the rope to ensure that it will not pass through the belay device. The trad routes are best climbed on double ropes and are protected with a standard Minera Quarry rack of wires, cams and slings. Many of the harder trad climbs also rely on fixed threads and pegs. All fixed gear should be treated with caution because many of the pegs and World's End threads are old and at times might be the only protection available.

Craig Arthur Bolting The work of maintaining the bolts has been carried out by many people and has been a

Twilight Area huge task. If you come across any routes that need re-equipping then please submit your comments to the databases on - rockfax.com or sportsclimbs.co.uk Pinfold Gary Gibson Bolt Fund Gary Gibson is by far the most prolific bolter in Monk's ButtressMonk's the Clwyd area. Many of the routes on crags like Llanymynech, Trevor and Independence Quarry plus the Eglwyseg crags owe their existence to the bolting efforts of Gary. If you enjoy the sport

Dinbren climbing in the area then please consider making a donation to this effort. You can find the links to the PayPal page via UKBoltFund.org. Proceeds

Trevor Area from some of the sales of this guidebook will go towards the Gary Gibson Bolt Fund. Pandy Outcrop Mark Glaister climbing Subterranean Sidewalk (6c+) - page 249 - at Llanymynech Quarry, one of many routes featured in this book climbed and equipped by Gary Gibson. Photo: John Warner Llanymynech Pontesford Support local bolting volunteers andBolting Gear Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Climbing Maeshafn Quarry. Photo: Tim Glasby as pictured here,tomorefriendly venuessuchasPot Holeand offer throughoutClwyd rangingfromthehardandadventurous, 6a) -page107atCraigArthur. Fantastic tradclimbingison oftheFastest(E5 Lucy Creamergetting thegearinonSurvival 31

Ruthin Area The routes in this book are given one of two different grades depending on British Trad Grade whether they are a trad route or a sport

Devil's Gorge route. The table to the right roughly compares the sport and trad grade with two other international grading systems. On trad routes the majority of the gear

Maeshafn is carried by the lead climber and is hand-placed. A sport route is defined as one where Pot Hole Quarry all the major protection comes from gear fixed in the rock (bolts).

Minera Quarry British Trad Grade 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), World's End E1, E2 ... to E10). An overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained

Craig Arthur and a general indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route. 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c ... to 7b).

Twilight Area The difficulty of the hardest single move, or short section.

Sport Grade

Pinfold The sport grade is a measure of how hard it is going to be to get up a certain section of rock. It makes no attempt to Monk's ButtressMonk's tell you how hard the hardest move is, nor how scary a route is.

Colour Coding Dinbren The routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. The colour represents a level that a climber should be happy at, hence sport routes tend to be technically harder than the equivalent coloured trad routes because the climber doesn't need to worry Trevor Area about the protection. 1 Up to Severe / Up to 4c

Pandy Outcrop Mostly these should be good for beginners and those wanting an easy life. 2 HS to HVS / 5a to 6a+ General ticking routes for those with more experience. Llanymynech 3 E1 to E3 / 6b to 7a Routes for the experienced and keen climber. A grade band which includes many of the area's great classics. Pontesford 4 E4 or 7a+ and above The really hard stuff including some of the top sport routes in the country. Grades Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Climbing for hard and powerful sportclimbing.Photo: RobMirfin for hardand powerful Dinbren is the destinationofchoice forclimberslooking Highway Dave Rosemakingthe crucialmovesontheheadwallof (8a) -page175atTheBanditsArea, Dinbren. 33

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area 205 205 205 204 234 207 79 211 205 202 201 79 205 208 201 210 204 210 210 205 206 206 79 234 200 202 200 202 210 200 210 206 251 205 210 176 206 204 71 208 241 78 241 176

4c 5c 4a 6a 5a 4b 6b Dogmatic 204 Araf, Slow Slow, No Reptiles Up All Fudd About a Bay Catch the Pigeon (Trevor Q) (Trevor the Pigeon Catch Grooves Easy So? Clue, Deputy Dog Wizard The Welsh Merlin Magic Groove The Open Grey Hot Dog Sudden Impact Dim Parcio Under Suspicion Off Fudd Suspect Device 206 Borderline the Suspect Forever Frogs Super Furry Escape The Great Over the Wall 210 Suspectus The Quartz Slab Long-legged Lizard.... Leaf Bay yr Hebog Sgrech Cluedo 210 Canol Canal Innocence 210 in the Ogof Ogre Laughing Dai Disappearing Act K9 205 the Coed in Co-ed Crime Scene Charlie Checkpoint Triffids of the Day in the Grass Snakes Suspect Criminal and Exist Resist Lost Control The Fuddites Quartz Wall Impact Imminent Gaza Strippers The Calch the Juggler Smack Brain the President’s Where’s 6a+ Ω 4 Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω 238 46 168 249 104 182 171 242 251 43 140 122 251 165 46 251 169 242 206 171 241 206 107 183 213 213 249 213 180 138 242 57 251 170 114 170 135 242 241 249 249 181 140 249 251 238 171 Sport List Graded 6c 7a 241 Curfew Bean Green Sanction The Dinbren Clematis 251 Rouser Rabble Force Delta Goose Flesh Inaugural Trauma Traction Humpty Dumpty Ships Three I Saw 169 Jaspers Stupid School Boyz On Lives Waring Eddie Diet Crash Ship Dip Line of Fire Bean Runner The Deep 213 Trabucco Turkey Cold Grid Iron Control Traction World Direct Gemma’s Parade Torchlight A Night of Error Margin Creek Dead Man’s Name Another Route Just Trevor Clevor Mud Slide Slim Stick Crab Clitheroe to Way This Sidewalk Subterranean 180 Fire Killer Gorilla 238 Nomad 171 Dreadlocks Wincy Spider Incy Bananas and Coffee Mussel Bound 55 Echoes Yawn Technicolour These Things Foolish of Someone Silly In Search Heat Prickly 46 CCR Dock Dickory Hickory the Smuggler Jack on the Loose Lobster of the Deep Rapture 238 Unbroken Hot Stuff On Goin’ What’s Dead Man's Fingers Codling Long John This Won't Hurt 138 Atmospheres Climb High Boys Fat 6c+ 6b+ 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω 7a+ ** Ω 8b 170 169 152 237 165 174 167 55 170 104 55 49 238 115 140 138 101 170 241 170 139 164 174 175 169 174 175 175 164 237 86 170 165 174 165 55 8a+ Climbing Clwyd Limestone 180 Dyperspace the Dead for are Flowers The Eyes Me Give People Weed Little The Bandits Fink Feathered Fine 105 Relentless Canyon Grand First Judy I Punched and Ice-Cream Broccoli Collector The Butterfly Skull The Screaming Up Mix Sunnyside the Grapevine Through Ice 181 Planet Claire of the Puppets Dance with Barrence Walking Strawberry Tubin Alpha Track Etch Alpha Track Dreams Broken in Black Back 105 Ten 139 Brainbox of Swine Generation Underworld 55 Comes Saturday When Binary Finary El Zapatistas 170 Insomnia No Kneed The Orgasmatron 102 Pi 55 Cerberus 55 Canyonlands Syncopations Elite Tubin Back-Bee 175 Highway Solution The Final Flowers Broken of Ewes Statement Out of Body Experience Hell to Train Born Slippy El Rincon the Fury The Sound and 55 Hades Sheep Counting 168 Leftism

4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 7b *** Ω *** Ω 7b+ ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 7c ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 7c+ ** Ω 8a *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 8b+ 34 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford lines tobe found atDinbren.Photo: KeithSharples upper wallsaretypical ofmanythesport by technical andfingery undercut- attheFireandIceArea, Dinbren.Powerful startsfollowed slightly lessdemanding uppersectionofHotStuff(7a)-page181 Having overcome thehardlowerbulges theclimberismovingup Sport Graded List Sport Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Climbing 35

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area 255 255 254 254 164 255 192 91 88 212 84 91 117 68 72 226 144 91 208 90 68 88 194 85 90 208 208 255 63 68 212 212 61 212 204 63 S M HS VD 89 Inelegance End Climb Wall Sloth 119 Chimney Stoats Crack West Wall West Hell Hole Groove Finale in Pink Sally Right Edge Ivy Groove Big Phlash 68 Wanderer Crack Jennifer 63 Yobo 84 Sting Corner Coltsfoot Corner Funeral 89 Inspiration 75 Murren Crack Shattered Owl Wall Mango 72 Arete Cannon High Obelisks Fly Edge Straight Billy Puffing Corner Twisting Crack Shattered 63 Rambler 117 Loran Open Book 228 Schmutzig Arete Babbling Ivy Crack It Like Yew As Engine Tank Thomas the Controller The Fat 89 Incompetence Wall Direct Tree Oak 75 Sesto Layback on Me Layback 149 E.C.V The Arete Silver Long John 212 Dino Gold Phlash Edge Sword Wilkinson Blue Flash Fudd Elmer J. 118 Skullion Power Puppy HVD ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω 4 Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω 74 212 74 84 68 134 146 91 134 212 84 188 117 149 134 91 90 227 75 118 64 246 86 64 64 84 192 74 89 84 142 65 189 60 187 Trad Graded List Graded Trad E1 VS Intensity 86 Big Splat The Dog Marnie 150 Feelings Finer 89 Insecure 88 Whim The Bulger 72 Tosa Mitsuki Groove Crypt Tick Crack Coltsfoot Major 75 Mitsuki Groove 72 Epitaph Line The Silver 176 Yale The Trick Big Youth 75 Grizzly 151 Toccata Factor Penetration Dilemma Gerald's 72 Chutney Atlantic Traveller 134 Kinberg Blues Recession Prelims Ashgrove Quill 84 Cristallo 75 Value Face The Watzmann Driver Sunday Un-Aided 75 Fingers Talking Charlain 106 The Minstrel Wall Black 87 Crystal 158 Life 158 Jibber the Edge Close to Block Flying The Corner 90 Cornucopia 171 Alison Brodrie Cathcart's New Got a Brand 74 Ceba Games Colour 75 Vetta Legs Talking Out Fall Commander Warp Last Fandango Problem Knotty 151 Marander Art Historians German for 63 Jocca Wolf the with Running 102 Tito of Harmony World A HVS ** Ω * Ω 4 Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω *** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω 4 Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω *** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω *** Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω 4 Ω 157 84 88 186 89 192 191 178 151 64 88 99 101 99 75 87 64 134 122 99 85 246 74 246 213 150 87 165 167 110 110 110 103 246 107 107 140 86 157 188 246 85 84 151 Climbing Clwyd Limestone E2 E3 Vertical Games Vertical Suicide Crack Arch The Royal Crystal Ship Storm Raging Zone Combat Kind of Hypertension A Different Solo in Soho Mathematical Workout Arete Butter and Decline The Fall 193 Hydrogen 178 Hyperdrive Manikins of Horror Le Chacal Variation Vetta Ego 75 Ego Beaver Feelings Unknown Entry Bitter 101 Stratagem 103 Digitron of Class Touch A Sentinel 132 Wall Tearg Bastard Black Right Wall Direct Wall Black Way Which Any Verticales Vacances 88 Windhover Go-a-Go-Go 118 Royal Plume Royal Sir Cathcart D’Eath Titanium Man Titanium The Fog Blanks Shootin’ Manic Mechanic or Hell Heaven is Beautiful Black 144 Dangermouse and Judy Punch 102 Eliminator Survival of the Fastest Shooting Star Line Another Red in Black Waltz Away the Cat's While Flash Dance 60 Pussyfooting Edge World's 64 Calculus Transition Mental Hombres Tres Bolt from the Blue Bolt from Shoot Thrill to

* Ω *** Ω *** Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω 4 Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω * Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω *** Ω * Ω * Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω * Ω ** Ω * Ω E4 4 Ω ** Ω E5 E6 ** Ω E7 ** Ω 36 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford Trad Graded List Clwyd LimestoneClwyd Climbing Survival oftheFastest(E56a).Photo: KeithSharples Survival Craig Arthur -theothertwobeing Digitron - atCraigArthur. Thisisone ofatriotradclassicsat upper crackofManikinsHorror (E3 5c)-page101 Leanne Callaghanembarking onthefinely-positioned (E2 5c)and 37

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area 42 44 52 58 70 76 82 96 116 128 154 160 198 215 221 224 230 252 Page Summary Rarely visited and a good place to avoid the crowds. The the crowds. avoid and a good place to visited Rarely escarpment has a mix of sport in the climbs mainly and trad mid grades. all - sport, for has something line of cliff The extensive climbs are classic Some of the area's and multi-pitch. trad of varying ability. teams A good destination for hereabouts. pitches for Lots of interesting and shady cliff. A little-visited lines and trad the enthusiast and a handful of good harder Some climbs will need cleaning. for. worthcracks travelling sport high-grade major mid- to climbing One of the region's escarpmentThe long low is composed of high destinations. climbs. and also has good trad quality limestone bulging mid to of low- a huge number that has popular venue Very The quarry itself has a along its length. sport-grade routes Llangollen. from on foot It can be reached climbs. trad few a similar Quarry and offering Trevor quarry Large set below climbs are The type higher grade. of climbing at a slightly in places. needs handling with care and the rock new fairly Of local with just two routes. venue steep An extremely but, once find to difficult are as good conditions only interest Not limestone. is possible. in the rain climbing dry, is a great the crag and beautiful valley, Set deep in a remote the Exposed to climbing. trad mid-grade to low- place for Not limestone. visit in good weather. elements so only A huge quarry (35m) single pitch sport with some massive A popular spot as pitches. of fine trad climbs and number and the climbing superb. excellent often conditions are landscape with great set in a gorgeous A charming venue climbing both single and multi- trad mid-grade to Low- views. Not limestone. pitch. Hidden in dense woodland below Denbigh Castle, the crag crag the Castle, Denbigh below in dense woodland Hidden are Conditions sport mid-grade of a number routes. offers get dirty. can and the face variable that has some rock escarpment of excellent A little-visited has also been Buttress short Butterfly intense sport climbs. access. Sensitive as a good bouldering venue. developed that has a large in the hillside gash An impressive stamina high grade excellent offers which face overhanging muddy. crucial is often and the base are Conditions routes. Good hillside. line of vertical on a sheltered low walls A long, A routes. trad mid-grade to and plenty of low- quality rock rural in a beautiful setting. crag evening great numerous cut by are these quarried walls setting, In a lovely Easy lines. trad mid-grade to lots of low- that give cracks appeal. its add to close by access and a good pub The worth but if in the area. a look a minor venue Only being more deceptive selection of sport are limited routes might suggest. appearances than first difficult location at the end set in a stunning cliffs A series of tiered throughout routes trad testing Lots of Valley. of the Eglwyseg good limestone. on generally the grades that has lots of mid- to biggest cliffs One of the region's sport trad high-grade as plenty lines as well of adventurous dries quickly. the elements but to exposed Very routes. tions Restric- X C C C C C C C Rain Dry in ! ! ! ! ered Shelt- $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * * * * * * Sun Faded symbol means that only some of the routes are: sheltered / dry / restricted in the rain sheltered are: routes some of the means that only symbol Faded } Y R { R R R R R R R R Y R Y E E W 5 - 10 min 10 min 15 min 5 - 6 min 6 min 5 - 10 min 12 - 14 min 35 min 17 - 25 min 20 min 2 - 13 min 10 - 20 min 10 min 5 min 5 min 25 min 13 - 20 min 7 - 10 min Approach G F D A S S S F S S S D F D S G S G - - - - - 1 5 1 2 1 1 1 11 19 13 20 23 22 E4 and up E4 and - - - 5 4 5 6 3 3 3 13 28 44 25 25 61 23 46 E1 to E3 E1 to - - - - 7 2 7 4 2 7 18 15 23 40 36 48 35 23 HS to HVS HS to T R A D R O U T E S T R O U T R A D ------8 3 3 3 3 3 6 10 13 31 23 Mod S to ------1 2 5 1 2 6 14 23 25 52 22 7a+ and 7a+ and up ------1 4 1 3 11 17 45 35 24 24 24 25 6b to 7a 6b to ------4 5 3 1 6 4 14 39 56 5a to 6a+ 5a to S P O R T R O U T E S T R O U S P O R More colour density means more routes and more quality. and more routes colour density means more More ------1 1 2 15 up to 4c up to 2 11 10 35 55 34 21 39 38 60 26 113 108 136 132 188 100 200 Routes Pinfold Dinbren World's End World's Craig ArthurCraig Twilight Area Twilight Devil's Gorge Devil's Trevor Quarry Trevor Minera Quarry Minera Pandy Outcrop Pandy Ruabon Quarry Ruabon Pot Hole Quarry Pot Monk's Buttress Maeshafn Quarry Pontesford Rocks Pontesford Ruthin Escarpment Ruthin

Destination Planner Destination Llanymynech Quarry Llanymynech

Independence Quarry Denbigh Castle Quarry Castle Denbigh

Outlying Areas Outlying Trevor Area Trevor Eglwyseg Valley Eglwyseg Ruthin and Mold Area Mold and Ruthin 38 Ruthin Area Devil's Gorge Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry World's End Craig Arthur Twilight Area Pinfold Monk's Buttress Dinbren Trevor Area Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech Pontesford Outlying Areas Trevor Area Eglwyseg Valley Ruthin and Mold Area Denbigh CastleQuarry Independence Quarry Llanymynech Quarry Destination Planner Ruthin Escarpment Pontesford Rocks Maeshafn Quarry Monk's Buttress Pot HoleQuarry Ruabon Quarry Pandy Outcrop Minera Quarry Trevor Quarry Devil's Gorge Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Dinbren Pinfold Routes 200 100 188 132 136 108 113 26 60 38 39 34 21 55 35 10 11 2 up to 4c 15 1 2 1 ------More meansmore colour density routes andmore quality. S POR T ROU T ES 5a to 6a+ 39 56 14 4 3 5 6 1 4 ------6b to 7a 25 24 45 24 24 35 17 11 1 3 1 4 ------7a+ and up 7a+ and 52 25 23 22 14 1 1 5 2 6 2 ------Mod to S Mod 23 31 13 10 3 8 6 3 3 3 3 ------T RADOU T ES HS to HVS 23 35 48 36 40 23 15 18 4 7 2 7 2 7 - - - - E1 to E3 28 46 23 61 25 25 44 13 5 5 6 3 3 3 4 - - - E4 andup 22 23 20 13 19 11 5 1 1 2 1 1 1 - - - - - S A D F G S D F D S S S F S S G S G Approach 25min 7-10min 13-20min 5min 5min 10min 6min 5-6min 10-20min 15min 10min 2-13min 20min 17-25min 35min 12-14min 5-10min 5-10min W E E } R R R R R R R R Y R Y { R Y Faded symbol means that only some oftheroutes are: sheltered intherain /restricted / dry Sun * * * * * * * * * * $ $ $ $ $ $ Shelt- ered ! ! ! ! Dry in Dry Rain C C C C C C C X Restric- tions cracks travelling worth for. Someclimbswillneedcleaning. the enthusiastandahandfulofgoodharder linesandtrad A little-visited and shadycliff. Lotsofinteresting pitchesfor hereabouts. A gooddestinationfor teams ability. ofvarying trad andmulti-pitch. Someofthearea's classicclimbsare The extensive lineofcliff hassomethingfor all-sport, mid grades. andtrad climbsmainly inthe hasamixofsport escarpment Rarely visited andagoodplace to avoid thecrowds. The routes. Very exposed to theelementsbut quickly. dries ofadventurous linesaswell asplenty high-grade trad sport One oftheregion's biggestcliffs thathaslotsofmid-to the grades ongenerally goodlimestone. of theEglwyseg Valley. Lotsoftesting trad routes throughout oftieredA series cliffs setin astunninglocationattheend difficult thanfirst appearances mightsuggest. routeslimited selectionofsport are deceptive beingmore Only aminorvenue alookifinthearea. but worth The access andagoodpubcloseby addto itsappeal. cracks thatgive lotsoflow- to mid-grade trad lines. Easy In alovely setting, walls thesequarried are cutby numerous great evening crag setting. inabeautiful rural rockquality oflow- andplenty to mid-grade trad routes. A A long, lowwalls lineofvertical onasheltered hillside. Good routes. Conditions are andthebaseisoften crucial muddy. overhanging face whichoffers excellent highgrade stamina An impressive gash inthehillsidethathasalarge developed venue. asagoodbouldering Sensitive access. climbs. sport intense Butterfly short Buttress hasalsobeen A little-visited ofexcellent escarpment rock thathassome variable andtheface cangetdirty. offers routes. anumber ofmid-grade sport Conditions are Hidden indensewoodland below DenbighCastle, thecrag pitch. Notlimestone. views. Low- to mid-grade trad climbing bothsingleand multi- venueA charming setinagorgeous landscapewithgreat conditions are often excellent andtheclimbingsuperb. climbs andnumber offinetrad pitches. Apopularspotas withsomemassive (35m)singlepitchsport A hugequarry elements soonly visitingoodweather. Notlimestone. place for low- to mid-grade trad climbing. Exposedto the Set deepinaremote andbeautifulvalley, thecrag isagreat dry, climbingintherain ispossible. Not limestone. interest only asgoodconditionsare difficult to find but, once An extremely steep venue routes. withjust two Oflocal fairly new andtherock needshandlingwithcare inplaces. ofclimbingataslightlytype highergrade. The climbsare setbelowLarge quarry Trevor andoffering Quarry asimilar few trad climbs. Itcanbereached onfoot from Llangollen. routes-grade sport alongitslength. itselfhasa The quarry Very popularvenue thathasahugenumber oflow- to mid bulgingquality limestone andalsohasgoodtrad climbs. destinations. iscomposedofhigh The longlow escarpment One oftheregion's majormid-toclimbing high-grade sport Summary Page 252 230 224 221 215 198 160 154 128 116 52 44 42 96 82 76 70 58

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area Dinbren Monk's Buttress Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area