FREE December 2008 Edition 50 krakow POST ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

No Country Krakow Stink over new Krakow for Old Trees statue >> page 4 Controversy over tree cull Poland Barack Obama - positive for Anna Krajewska Poland? >> page 5 Amidst all the construction taking Feature place on the Market Square between Szczepańska and św. Anny streets it 2008: The year in may have been easy to miss the fact review that in one day in late November all >> page 10, 11 of the trees on that side of the square disappeared. In fact, many people may Property have missed this event completely as within a few days the 14 old trees had Office space - the next big been replaced by fresh young speci- thing for Krakow? mens from a German arboretum. >> page 13

The Zarząd Infrastruktury Komunal- Sport nej i Transportu w Krakowie (ZIKiT, or the Krakow Board of Communal Kubica on course for Infrastructure and Transport) is the Above: Krakow’s Christmas Market opened for the holiday season on November 28th greatness body responsible for the trees’ re- >> page 14 moval. According to ZIKiT’s website, the current tree removal was simply Culture the continuation of a “tree exchange” on the Market Square begun in 2006. Polish “Londoners” premieres “The replacement of the crop of trees HOPE FOR THE HOLIDAYS >> page 15 was necessary due to the medical sta- tus of these trees,” states the website. contact in the long term. In the winter The trees’ removal had also been ap- The Krakow Post investigates the fate months this assistance takes the form of proved by the Małopolska Voivod- beds, meals, bathhouses, and informa- inside ship’s Conservator of Monuments. of Krakow’s less fortunate this winter tion.”

“In the expert analysis it was unequiv- The resources, however, only get to the ocally stated that the trees are in such Anna Bienkowska neediest through the hard work of a a state, that the best solution will be handful of individuals. For anyone who their removal. The entire project was has lived in America, the term “social planned two years ago,” stated Jan cold reality that will affect Chechelska of the Miejski ośrodek po- worker” is common, and “streetworkers” Janczykowski, the Malopolska Con- 1,200 people during this mocy społecznej (MOPS, or City Social are Krakow’s equivalent. They showed servator of Monuments. The analy- holiday season in Krakow Welfare Centre). up on the scene just three years ago and sis showed that the treetops were is homelessness. The win- since then have been working for the only retaining 30-50 percent of their terA months are especially trying for the “Many of the homeless and those that benefit of the homeless. branches. Holes and scars were visible homeless owing to the severe weather exist outside of the system know that on the tree trunks. Due to physiologi- conditions. For some, the combination they will receive help with no questions They go out into the street and make cal weakening, a danger of breakage of alcohol consumption and lack of shel- asked. The goal is to get these people off contact, bringing help and most of all had emerged. ter are lethal, and every year there are the streets, to help them and support information. They come >> 2 casualties. them and to establish a form of ongoing equipped with pamphlets But many Cracovians are sceptical > spotlight about whether the trees’ removal was The homeless find shelter where it is actually necessary. The chairman of warm and dry and there is a chance of Curtains up at Krakow the Saving Krakow Citizens’ Com- a meal. First, the basic needs have to be Opera mittee, Mikołaj Kornecki, told Gazeta met before a larger goal can be consid- Wyborcza: “Granted, the wood is ered. The homeless weave in and out of > posted worm-eaten in the middle, it’s crum- the city, namelessly sometimes, holding bling. I saw only one other like this. outstretched hands or empty cups for Events for December The rest, please notice, is healthy.” alms. Yearly, approximately 2,000 home- less people pass through Krakow. The swift extraction of the old trees came as a shock to Cracovians who Many homeless people wind up in Kra- were suddenly confronted by a series kow because the city offers a wide range of stumps. Just a few days before the of services aimed at helping the down- trees were cut down, they had been and-out. “The homeless are offered covered in the first snow of this win- good services and they know it- they ter, lending an extra dash of beauty to come here to seek refuge,” says Marta Krakow streetworkers: Iwona Surmaj, Łukasz Filek, Berenika Migdał / photo courtesy of MOPS 2 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

that explain who they << Continued from 1 Letters are and what they do, To the editor which also include the addresses of shelters, soup kitchens, bathhouses, places to obtain clothing, and housing. They offer professional help for Re: Tony R.’s letter to the editor, November issue of those with dependents or those that have been the victims of the Krakow Post violence and need medical help. Dear Tony, In Krakow, there are eight locations where one can find a warm In light of the fact that I’ve read every issue of the meal during dinner hours, such as ul. Skawińska 6, whereas on Krakow Post since its very beginning, from cover to Sundays the only place serving meals is on ul. Łokietka. In ad- cover, I must defend the Krakow Post against your accusation of “anti-British sentiment.” I struggle dition, three locations distribute nonperishable foodstuffs, as to remember anything within the Post’s pages that well as new or used clothing. The medical centre for homeless might be construed as anti-British. In fact, most of people can be found on ul. Olszańska 5. the opinion pieces which have stuck in my mind are ones that could be labelled “anti-American” – Streetworkers cooperate with the straż miejska (city guard), criticism of American political issues such as Bush’s missile defence shield plan, etc. and together they conduct trainings with railroad employees, exchanging information and discussing appropriate approaches It seems to me that “newsworthy” issues should Krakow“ to dealing with homeless people at railway stations. Last year, reflect our immediate reality. The problem of British 200 employees of the straż miejska participated in such train- brutes roaming in obnoxious packs in the historic has ings. From November until March they jointly conduct patrols centre of Krakow is something that disrupts my life (nearly on a daily basis in the spring and summer). late into the evening hours, seeking out people not in shelters. Krakow is becoming vulgarised by these groups become of men, who are, without exception, BRITISH. Streetworkers are the first to arrive when someone reports a When people come to visit me here and I take a haven homeless person. In the event that a person does not want help them out to see my beautiful city, these people or does not want to spend the night in a shelter, street workers are an embarrassment. I try to avoid them, but A streetworker helps out / photo courtesy of MOPS it’s becoming hard since they’re here in such great for the pass on information on where they can get help in case they numbers. This is a recent problem, and one that were to change their mind. “When they don’t want help we are give freely but because of the push to avoid giving on the street needs to be reported on in order to be solved. This brutish, not allowed to help,” says Iwona, one of the street workers, “but there has been a big change. On the one hand, “when there is a of course is not to suggest that all British people mostly we have positive reactions.” There have been a total of 45 drive or a project that needs certain things we have never been in Krakow are of this variety; there are plenty of idiotic, such interventions in the past year. disappointed, help always comes,” Chechelska continues. “They British people living here who are respectful and appreciative of the city and its culture. But Krakow help all year, there is a difference around the holidays because has become a haven for the brutish, idiotic, arrogant arrogant There are approximately 800 beds combined for men and wom- there are different things that are needed but they help all year kind as well, and there seems to be a lot of them. en in Krakow, and no one is turned away even in the most dras- rou n d .” kind as tic of situations. In the case that someone shows up looking for Another thing that needs to be addressed in your shelter and is heavily under the influence of alcohol the police is For MOPS, yearlong help takes the form of regular consulta- amusing letter is your complaint about “ridiculous property prices” in Krakow. The sad irony for you well, and informed. In these cases they will not spend the night under the tions with professionals on topics such as addiction or depres- – and for all other Brits who believe they are God’s naked sky, but not in a shelter either. sion, support groups, employment and temporary housing on gift to Poland – is that this has happened solely due there top of addressing basic needs. MOPS offers transition housing to the influx of you and your compatriots! When I Helping the homeless is not only a holiday project that melts with 11 spaces, which have only been open since last year. Those first came to Poland ten years ago it wasn’t hard to seems to like the winter snow, but an ongoing endeavour to help people who need a temporary home can reside in these locations while find an attractive, two-bedroom, 70 or 80-square- metre flat right in the Old Town for a mere 800 become a part of functioning society. It’s not just about warm they begin working to support themselves. But the streetwork- złoty per month (complete with original classy be a lot of meals and beds but about meetings and support groups and ers’ most important tasks are often carried out away from the wooden fixtures, porcelain wood-burning stoves, helping those neglected by society to feel human. This kind of office and in the streets and alleyways of Krakow, where they

etc.). Now these flats are all swiftly being destroyed them... help is most effective when contact is ongoing and people can offer immediate assistance to those who need it. by cheap, quick renovations in which the beautiful, receive support and motivation on a regular basis. original wood fixtures are ripped out and replaced

by generic plastic ones in an effort to lower things to For those eager to help, the best way to throw in a wise two bland European standards and thus justify tripling With the holidays approaching, alms for the poor gains new grosze is to contact the MOPS centre. They can advise anyone the rent prices for the clueless British people and momentum, but throwing money into a cup or putting a few who wants to volunteer and tell them how. They know what the other Westerners who are coming here to stay “ grosze in someone’s hand does not solve the problem. In fact, needs are and what materials are needed so that anyone who or live. In addition, Polish workers in the service it deepens it as it supports homelessness by allowing those beg- wants to get involved can do so through donations of either industry are being forced to speak English at their jobs due to visitors’ ignorance of their language ging on the streets to get by. “Giving alms to the poor should be goods or services. (and stubbornness to learn), which of course can’t done wisely,” says Chechelska. “We should give to organisations be very pleasant in a job already tiring and low- we know and trust. That way we can know how that money is The MOPS office serves not only as an office but also as a con- paid. So, before you go raving about how much the used. Giving money [directly to the homeless] does not mo- sultation place. They are open on weekday afternoons in shifts, Polish economy and Polish people’s lives have been tivate or give incentive to stay off of the street, it supports the on Mondays from 1-3 pm, Tuesdays and Wednesdays 1:30 to improved by the trillions of pounds they bring back from their lovely jobs at your English construction homeless status.” 5:30 and morning hours on Thursdays from 9:30-11:30. The sites (and sweatshops and brothels), maybe open up MOPS office in Krakow is located at ul. Felicjanek 15 and they your eyes, take your “English-tinted sunglasses off” Cracovians have learned to give wisely regardless of their pen- can be reached at (12) 429 3041. and think a bit about how much harm England and ny-pinching stereotype. Just a few years ago Cracovians used to English people are doing to Poland.

Sincerely, S. Gilroy, Krakow resident letters to the editor about krakow POST TheKrakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for publication should be signed and bear the signatory’s e-mail address and city of residence. TheKrakow Krakow Post is a monthly Nick Hodge, Culture Editor For advertising inquiries, publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. [email protected] please contact: Post reserves the right to edit letters. ISSN: 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com Dana Dramowicz, Nightlife Editor Michal McSperrin-Kossak, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], or by post at [email protected] Group Sales Manager Mark Bradshaw, Publisher [email protected] Krakow Post [email protected] Stuart Wilson, Design +48 (12) 421 4865 Ul. Szczepańska 7/4a [email protected] 31-011 Krakow Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief Printers, www.polskapresse.pl [email protected] www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 3 News Krakow

<< Trees continued from 1

the barren branches. “Half of the Market Square [now] looks strange. These trees held lights every year before Christmas, and now it will simply be gloomy,” commented local kiosk keeper Małgorzata Kozak, as reported by Gazeta Wyborcza.

The removal even sparked a protest by an unknown activist. Shortly after the trees had been cut down and removed, someone spray-painted each stump in bright orange paint. The spontaneous graffiti marked each tree with declarations such as “too old,” “too fat,” “too thin,” “too crooked,” “too many branches,” “blocks the view of the kiosk.”

While young trees have now replaced the old, and the hubbub of the Christmas Market provides a distraction from the sudden change, nonetheless it’s hard to imagine the Market Square looking as festive this holiday season without the customary lights hanging on high from the ancient branches. The trees cut down but not yet cleared / photo Anna Spysz

Healing Cancer in Krakow Grażyna Zawada

Last month it was announced that a four tre already has great experience in other and a half million złoty proton eye radio- types of eye tumour therapy and helps therapy station will begin operating in patients from all over Poland. However, spring 2009. Within four years, Krakow starting proton therapy was not possible will have a National Hadron Radiotherapy earlier due to the lack of funds. Centre where doctors will be able to heal all types of tumours using protons. “We have been making attempts to es- tablish such an eye therapy centre in When particles are sped up to great ve- Krakow for over ten years,” says Bożena locities in a particle accelerator they start Romanowska-Dixon, PhD, a head of the emitting radiation. This physical property Ophthalmology Clinic at the Jagiellonian is used all over the world for radiotherapy University’s Collegium Medicum, who has - killing a tumour in a human body with a been treating eye melanomas for many beam of dashing radiating particles that is years. “Our clinic is very experienced in pointed to where the tumour is located. ophthalmological tumours and in the Nu- Among other types of radiotherapy, us- clear Institute we have the only particle ing hadrons is a very precise method, as accelerator in Poland that is suitable for “Too old” - one of several graffitied stumps / photo Anna Spysz a hadron is a very special configuration of medical purposes. It is obvious then that quarks in an atom. Due to this the bundle a proton therapy centre would be created of hadrons is very precise and helps elimi- here sooner or later,” she added. nate many radiation complications. This method has been used in clinics all over The other reason is that the accelerator is the world for thirty years. too old and is not able to speed up parti- cles fast enough to reach body tumours. In “Protons are particles that are two thou- the National Hadron Therapy Centre that sand times heavier than electrons and is to be built in four years in Radzikowsk- their bundle can be directed precisely to iego St. (near the IKEA store), scientists hit the tumour and not other healthy tis- and doctors will use a state of the art, 25 sues surrounding it,” explains Paweł Olko, million euro accelerator and a gantry scan- PhD, the deputy director of the Nuclear ning device, through which a proton bun- Physics Institute of the Polish Science dle will reach internal tumours. It has also Academy in Krakow. “In addition, protons been confirmed that the high standards give off their maximum radiation inside set for the endeavour will not threaten the body and not when they enter it,” he Krakow’s natural environment and its in- says. habitants with radiation. When the centre is built it will be one of the few places in There are two reasons for starting an eye the world with the ability to treat tumours tumour therapy centre in Krakow. First, by means of radiotherapy. The trees are removed shortly after / photo Anna Spysz the Jagiellonian University’s Ophthalmol- ogy Clinic that would use the therapy cen- 4 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

A Monumental Mistake? KRAKOW IN BRIEF Wartime Leader Exhumed New Krakow monument may be plagiarism The earthly remains of Po- Grażyna Zawada land’s wartime leader were exhumed at Wawel Cathedral n National Independence and a bastion of Krakow’s bourgeois on November 25th. According Day, Krakow was granted traditions. The fraternity was indeed to official Allied reports, Gen- two new monuments. the sponsor of the Piłsudski statue, with eral Władysław Sikorski died in Shortly afterwards, it the “Legionnaires” sculpture sponsored an accidental plane-crash off turnedO out that one of them may be a by the city. British Gibraltar in July 1943. copy of a monument in Kielce, a city However, conspiracy theories north of Krakow. The issue of plagiarism arose when have never been quelled. Po- the Gazeta Wyborcza daily compared land’s Institute of National The November 11th National Inde- Dzwigaj’s legionnaires with a nearly Remembrance is currently in- pendence Day is always associated with identical piece by Jan Raszko, a sculp- vestigating the matter as a Marshal Jozef Piłsudski, the key figure tor who was a member of the original “communist crime.” Over the in the regaining of Polish independence Polish Legions. Raszko’s “Four Legion- years, many have been impli- in 1918 and the country’s most influen- naires” were sculpted in 1917 and are cated in the alleged plot, in- tial politician throughout the 1920s. located in Kielce. The soldiers in both cluding Russian, British and Krakow’s Mayor, Jacek Majchrowski, monuments march, bend their knees even Polish agents. The results unveiled a monument to him during and even look up in nearly the exact of the scientific tests will not this year’s 90th anniversary celebra- same way, though Dzwigaj’s version be revealed for a month at the tions. Appropriately enough. the statue loses a lot in comparison. earliest. stands on a street named after the great leader. The 88-year-old daughter of Jan Raszko, Danuta Bielecka, who is now the inheri- Krakow’s Aquarium Opens An accompanying monument, the so- tor of the author’s rights, is appalled that called “four legionnaires”, shows march- her father’s name was not mentioned in After many stops and starts, ing soldiers sculpted in tribute to the the project, although she always agrees The statue in question, on ul. Piłsudskiego Krakow’s aquarium re-opened men of the Polish Legions, a military to requests of copying the legionnaires for business in late November. unit of 144 fighters that was formed in statue without claiming any royalties. “I forums to boil. rector and stage designer. Occupying the same nineteenth Krakow during the First World War by just wish somebody had made an effort century building that provided Piłsudski. to ask me for permission. I would agree “That’s a scandal! Raszko’s author’s Professor Ewa Nowinska from the In- its previous home, the aquari- anyway,” she says. rights are above any doubt. This is a tellectual Laws and Property Institute um is an entirely revised affair, Both the marshal’s and the soldiers’ sheer theft and plagiarism,” writes user of the Jagiellonian University, an expert as overseen by American en- statues were designed and made by However, Czesław Dzwigaj considers Dorota at www.forum.gazeta.pl. on intellectual property, points out the trepreneur Nathan Gendreau. Czesław Dzwigaj, the author of numer- her opinion the “remarks of an eld- fact that the real soldiers didn’t neces- One floor has now been opened ous controversial works of art found erly lady” that contradict the facts and “Dzwigaj’s ‘legionnaires’ look as if they sarily have to march with their hands to visitors, and a second level in Krakow. Local artists have accused claims that both pieces are distinctly were sneaking for beer to a nearby pub on their thighs, which is the most vis- is forthcoming. The aquarium, the sculptor of producing mediocre art different. His key argument is that sol- right under the marshal’s nose,” mocks ible similarity to the Kielce monument. which can be found at ul. Se- and lacking originality, yet his position diers had to have the same uniforms stasieczek5. However, the legal court’s experts are bastiana 9, bills itself as “the is considered influential – Dzwigaj is and had to march in fours. the only ones who will be able to re- largest in Poland.” There are the chairman of the Fowler Guild, an “It’s a parody of the original, a huge solve this issue. reduced tickets for the inaugu- organisation of historical provenence That was enough for Krakow’s Internet kitsch,” comments Jan Polewka, a di- ral month.

#RACOW ,IFE#Xdb 7AR Prize For Ugliest Monument #Xdb SAW ,IFE #Xdb Polish daily Gazeta Wyborcza 0OZNAN ,IFE has launched a prize for Kra- WANTED: kow’s worst monument. The announcement comes hot on "ERLIN ,IFE the heels of two sculptural #Xdb PROFESSIONAL SALES PEOPLE additions to the city, one rep- #Xdb resenting “father of Polish in- 'DANSK ,IFE dependence” Jozef Piłsudski, Are you an energetic, enthusiastic and self motivated sales dynamo? the second Pope John Paul II. It has been suggested that the How do you feel about working for Eastern Europe’s leading internet guides? eagle on the Piłsudski monu- ment looks somewhat under The Cracow Life family are looking for professional sales people to join their rapidly growing teams in the influence of narcotics. Warsaw, Gdansk, Poznan and Berlin. Meanwhile, the monument to Pope John Paul, which stands You’ll be responsible for building relationships with new advertising clients as well as maintaining opposite Wawel Cathedral, has current ones. caused ripples not so much due to its universally respected If you’re fluent in Polish (or German if you’re in Berlin!), live in one of these cities and love them as much subject, but rather to the fact as we do, then send your CV with a covering letter about why you love your city to that many dignitaries did not Michał McSperrin-Kossak at: even know that the statue had been commissioned. [email protected] www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 5 News Poland

Debate Will Obama Be Positive for Poland?

Few will refute that the election of Barack Obama to the American presidency last month was a historic event that will affect not just the United States but the entire globe. But it’s when we start thinking of ourselves that the arguments begin. How will an Obama presidency affect Poland? Will he be Poland’s friend or will the country be neglected under his watch? Below, Thymn Chase and Jim McNulty debate the positive and negative aspects, respectively, of Polish-American relations under Obama.

Writing as an American citizen who voted for Barack Obama, I am truly proud that he will The historic victory of Barack Obama in the 2008 U.S. presidential election be the 44th President of the United States. I have no doubt that the Obama administration has already been labelled as the beginning of a revolution. According to the will be drastically different from Bush’s regime and will implement substantial changes in most avid supporters, Obama’s presidency will not only end years of Bush’s domestic and foreign policy. How quick Obama is able to enact these changes and what misgovernment, but it will transform relations between the United States and theyF: will mean for America and its many allies, economic partners and even enemies is wholly uncertain A:the rest of the globe. The change that Mr. Obama promised to deliver is supposedly being and the subject of much speculation. As regards whether the Obama administration will be “good” for welcomed not only by Americans but also by many people around the world. By the same Poland specifically, we need not look any further than Obama’s own words concerning the most pressing token, Poles should also look forward to embracing this harbinger of change from Illinois. U.S.-Polish issues. Or should they?

Let’s begin with the most universally positive issue – visas. On July 17th Barack Obama made the follow- I hate to break it to you, but from the Polish foreign policy standpoint, the future incumbent ing statement: “We should work to include countries like Poland that are members of both the EU and of the White House does not mean good news (not that McCain would be that much better). NATO into the Visa Waiver Program (VWP). Today’s visa regime reflects neither the current strategic re- I can list a number of reasons why, but these two below should make it a no-brainer. lationship nor the close historic bonds between our peoples, and is out of date.” These are powerful words and a blatant endorsement for Poland’s membership in the program. I believe Obama will make good on First, consider this: over the years it has been more than just a stereotype to claim that Dem- this statement and during his administration Polish citizens will finally be able to travel to the U.S. without ocrats are soft on national security. Given candidate Obama’s plans to cut the program of the enduring the arduous and often embarrassing visa process. missile defence system and create a rapprochement with Iran, perhaps the above-mentioned cliché is more than just a Republican campaign slogan. In fact, Obama’s proposals might A more complicated and controversial issue is the still uncertain future of the missile defence shield. In the be good for the United States itself. But they seem to be quite harmful for Poland at the same statement on July 17th Obama had this to say: “If we can responsibly deploy missile defences that same time. If Iran becomes America’s friend again, the rationale for the missile defence would protect us and our allies we should – but only when the system works.” Obama was referring to the system in Europe will almost definitely cease to exist. And for Poland this means trouble fact that the system has yet to prove its accuracy and effectiveness after numerous tests. He also went on and embarrassment. If Washington decides to pull out of the missile defence agreement to warn that “the Bush administration has in the past exaggerated missile defence capabilities and rushed (that was signed with the Polish government last August), it will put Polish diplomacy in a deployments for political purposes. The Bush administration has also done a poor job of consulting its very awkward position. After all, Poland went against the predominant European current NATO allies about the deployment of a missile defence system that has major implications for all of them. by choosing to be a part of the American shield, not to mention that it enraged Warsaw’s We must not allow this issue to divide “new Europe” and “old Europe,” as the Bush Administration tried “favourite” eastern neighbour. The bottom line is that the day Barack Obama’s administra- to do over Iraq. tion withdraws from the missile defence deal, Poland’s international credibility will suffer, big time. Poland is primed to emerge as a diplomatic power in the EU as it plays an increasingly larger role in tack- ling the challenges facing the EU and NATO in the region. To achieve this Poland first needs to step out Secondly, it is more than probable that as president, Obama will focus his foreign policy from under the shadow of the U.S. and make its own foreign policy decisions. If Poland and the U.S. go more on Asia and Africa rather than on Europe. Of course, traditional European allies of through with the missile shield it will forever remain a dangerously divisive issue within the EU and with the U.S. like Great Britain and Germany (and occasionally France) are still likely to enjoy Russia. Most supporters of the missile shield believe it will be a strategic deterrent against Russia, despite America’s attention. But unless something really bad or/and unexpected happens in Central both Polish and U.S. officials’ claims that this is “mathematically impossible” with the proposed system. As and Eastern Europe, there will be no place for Poland on the U.S. agenda. This has nothing Obama said, “Poland should not have to choose between its vital interest in closer integration with Europe to do with Obama’s race (or his place of upbringing), but with the simple fact that the recent and its alliance with the United States.” shift in international relations has constantly been moving away from Europe. For Poland, Obama’s victory may constitute an unpleasant wake-up call. The missile shield still has to be ratified by both the U.S. Congress and the Polish Sejm. The plan remains highly unpopular among Congressional Democrats, who now have a commanding majority in both It is high time for Warsaw to rethink its policy towards the United States. For years, Polish- houses, and considering the current economic crisis some Republicans might even vote against funding American relations characteris§ed the marriage of the reluctant elephant and willing mouse. the missile shield in the near future. If the missile defence shield plan collapses under the Obama adminis- While Warsaw’s wishful talk of a U.S.-Polish strategic partnership sounded like a lunatic’s tration, one’s opinion of President Obama would undoubtedly hinge upon where one stands with regards dream, Washington tried not to squash this hope and played its cards well. Right now, it to the missile system. Personally I would see it as a great victory for both the U.S. and Poland. seems that the dusk of this era is coming. Obama’s victory might have been just what Poles needed to face an unwelcome reality. Poland will not be the 51st state. Neither will it become No matter what happens, it is clear that Obama has turned a new page in history. He has given credence to a second Great Britain or Israel. Instead, Polish politicians might want to remind themselves a new politics of hope that is fuelled by optimism and governed by reason. His election is a great example that since 2004, their country has been a member of quite a successful international organi- to Poland and the rest of the world that no matter how bad things get (especially politically) anything is sation. And in this respect, the election of Barack Obama might be a bittersweet experience possible. for Poland. Change is good, after all. At least so they say.

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Taking America by Storm POLAND IN BRIEF You Shall Not Go To The Ball

Barack Obama won – now, here comes the hardest part. A post-election analysis November 11th saw the 90th anniversary of Polish independ- Wojciech Michnik ence. However, there were some noticeable absentees at the pres- idential ball that evening. Prime Minister Donald Tusk declined his here are very few who hardly limited to the United States. Globe, who pointed out that “Presi- nal election held during the event, invitation, claiming that he had would claim that Barack On the contrary: Obama seems to dent Obama may speak more softly in this instance won decisively by other plans. Meanwhile, Solidar- Obama’s victory falls have enjoyed more support abroad than his predecessor, but he will still Barack Obama. For those who feared ity hero Lech Wałesa was not short of being an unprec- than at home. When he visited Berlin be carrying a very big stick.” Ac- that Poland is slowly becoming less even graced with an invite. Ten- edentedT success. Probably there are this July as a presidential candidate, cording to Jacoby, Obama, like other pro-American that it used to be, this sions between the President and even fewer people who would say Obama received the sort of ecstatic presidents, will be loudly condemned must have been a pleasant surprise. Tusk - who represent different that four years ago they saw it com- reception that is usually reserved for abroad when he uses this power. And political parties - have reached ing. In the 2008 American presi- rock stars, not presidential wannabes as “George W. Bush can tell him, the However, as is often the case, it was embarrassing proportions in re- dential election, the fairly unknown from the other side of the pond. Of abuse goes with the job.” a politician who stole the show with cent months. Likewise, Lech (before at least) senator from Illi- course, the Obama-mania abroad his dubious comment in the Polish Wałesa has a long history of ani- nois gained the trust of a majority of does not have to be more than just a Love and Prejudice Sejm. A couple of days after Ameri- mosity with the Kaczyński broth- American voters to become the first short-lasting trend so typical in the cans picked Barack Obama to be ers. In 1993, Walesa sacked the non-white American president. His globalised, digital world. On the oth- The American presidential election their next president, lawmaker Artur Kaczyńskis from his ministerial election marked the end of the long- er hand, there might be something was watched in Poland quite assidu- Górski of the Law and Justice party team, prompting years of bad est and most expensive presidential more to it. As ously. In fact, one made all the evening news by claim- blood. “It’s too bad I wasn’t campaign in American history. the International might go as far as ing that Obama’s victory marks the invited,” quipped Mr. Wałesa Herald Tribune “Yes he to say that “the “end of the civilisation of the white about the ball, “I was looking Obviously, Obama’s victory was as wrote long before Polish media has man.” Mr. Górski, who up until this forward to partying and dancing much a product of his talent, per- Obama secured could. been obsessed moment had mostly been known with Mrs. Kaczyńska.” sonality and skillful campaigning as the presidency: with the U.S. elec- for the fact that he had been un- it was a result of voters’ disillusion- “Obama’s new- And he tion,” as Michal known, called U.S. president-elect Jumping the Queue ment with the Bush administration found popularity Kobosko re- the “black messiah of the new left.” and the weakness of John McCain. among Germans still can. marked in News- He was swiftly criticised by most After 50 years of communism, However, what counts is the out- underscores not week. Some of the politicians (regardless of political af- Polish people have become come that might transform the Unit- only the breadth But will pundits attempt- filiation). Nevertheless, the incident somewhat immune to standing ed States itself and its relations with of his appeal but ed to surmise was a small reminder that in Poland, in line. However, last month, the rest of the world. also the oppor- which candidate “a change” (in terms of stereotypical one Pole took the queue-barging tunity he might he be able would be the thinking) might also be needed. custom to new heights when he Barack Obama’s victory, though clear have as presi- better choice for casually joined a police con- and decisive, was not a landslide. dent… to mend to?” Polish relations Audacity of Change voy. After several minutes of While he won decisively, if counting fences abroad as with the United skipping traffic, police became Electoral College votes (Obama got well as at home.” States. Generally, President Obama will undoubt- alarmed by a mysterious vehi- 365 against 173 of McCain’s and 270 their discussion edly face great challenges in the first cle on their tail. Back-up was were needed to win the presidency), But not so far. Mr. Obama is not nec- ran along the lines of arguments that months (or even years) of his presi- called, and it was soon revealed in the popular vote he received 52 essarily bound to succeed. Republicans “have historically been dency. The three most apparent are: that the unidentified man was percent of all votes (against 46 for better for Poland.” Meanwhile, other the economic crisis, and the wars in none other than Law and Jus- McCain). In sheer numbers it means “We have it in our power to begin the journalists remained preoccupied Iraq and in Afghanistan. That is why tice MP Jacek Kurski. Mr. Kurski that about 68 million Americans cast world over again,” Thomas Paine fa- with the rather strange mix of is- he needs – as the British Economist promptly flashed his diplomatic their votes for Obama, whereas 59 mously observed on the potential of sues which the future U.S. president suggests – to “translate his vague phi- immunity, claiming that he was million picked McCain. This elector- the then-rising American nation. If should guarantee: that is abolishing losophy of ‘hope’ and ‘change’ into running late. The politician al arithmetic proves something that nowadays there is any truth in that the visa system for Poland, and keep- governance.” Otherwise he might was subsequently named and the president-elect already seemed dictum, it seems crucial for Obama’s ing the agreement with Warsaw on struggle to maintain public support shamed on national radio, and to know: that he needs to bring bi- administration to start “remaking” the defence missile system (the so- and political credibility. Indeed, he he has since had to cough up a partisanship to the front of his do- America itself before even trying to called antiballistic shield). may yet share the fate of the first Pres- 500 złoty fine. mestic agenda. reshape the world over again. The ident Bush, who in 1992 was not able current administration tried to do But perhaps the most stunning as- to secure his reelection, mainly due Poles Taken By Pirates The change that Obama has so ex- the opposite, which didn’t serve pect of the U.S. election frenzy in Po- to the economic crisis. Likewise, he tensively talked about, and that has America’s position in the world well. land was the unprecedented interest might follow in President’s Clinton’s As November drew to a close, so desperately been awaited by many of (young) Poles who are normally footsteps and lose Congress only two two Polish nationals remained Americans, deals mostly with U.S. Finally, let us not forget that these quite sceptical when it comes to poli- years after the election. This would embroiled in a kidnapping crisis. domestic politics. But from the Polish great expectations for Obama are tics. A good example of this tenden- mark the beginning of his adminis- On 15th November, Somali out- perspective, it is surely the interna- hugely exaggerated as well as unre- cy was the election night organised tration’s demise. His supporters must laws hijacked the Saudi Arabian tional element of this transformation alistic. Firstly, the foreign policy of by the U.S. Consulate in Krakow remain confident that Barack Obama oil-tanker “Sirius Star,” some 500 that should be watched closely. the United States has been quite firm together with the Andrzej Frycz Mo- will be smart and fortunate enough miles off the Kenyan coast. The when it comes to exercising Ameri- drzewski College and the Jagiellonian to avoid the mistakes of his afore- pirates demanded a $25 million President of the World? can interests, regardless of which University. If someone entered this mentioned predecessors. Because ransom for the kidnapped crew, party’s candidate happened to oc- event and was told that it was tak- the current political and economic which includes Polish captain Rarely can we witness such an abrupt cupy the White House. Secondly, as ing place in the United States, there situation looks rather gloomy for the Marek Niski. The Saudi vessel rise in popularity as the one Obama long as the United States remains would be no reason not to believe in U.S., Obama can have no hope of en- contains a cargo of crude oil to experienced during just several the world’s only superpower there it. Several hundred people (mostly joying a presidential honeymoon. To the value of $100 million. Piracy months. And this is not a popularity will always be some people (or even students) gathered there - almost en- paraphrase his campaign slogan: Yes has been a growing problem in measured only in votes but in media whole countries) that hate America. tirely equipped with American flags he could. And he still can. But will he the region following Somalia’s hype and social networks as well. This tendency was skillfully summa- and hats - cheering on their chosen be able to? civil war in the 1990s. Moreover, this phenomenon was rised by Jeff Jacoby from the Boston candidates. There was even an inter- www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 7 News Poland

Moscow Growling Robert Szmigielski

ussia made clear what prob- tronic equipment to disable the opera- into account.” lems lie ahead for president- tion of the U.S. planned missile defence elect Obama last month - facilities. And days later, Mr. Medvedev toned just hours after his election down his rhetoric towards Obama’s victoryR - by announcing plans to deploy In response, Polish Foreign Minister camp even further, presenting a more short-range missiles close to the Polish Radosław Sikorski called the Russian optimistic view on a post-Bush U.S. border. leader’s outburst “another of a series administration: “I hope that the new of similar statements,” adding, “what is president, the new administration will In a move that many will interpret as a disturbing about it is that whereas pre- have a desire to discuss this,” he stated provocation towards the U.S. and a fur- viously we heard them from [Russian] in a meeting with the Council on For- ther warning to Poland and the Czech generals, now we have heard it from the eign Relations. Republic, President Dmitry Medvedev president.” made the statement in his first annual “At least the first signals that we have state-of-the-nation address. Prime Minister Donald Tusk was less received indicate that our new partners concerned and dismissed the remarks, are thinking about this issue and do not Mr. Medvedev issued the stark warn- telling Polish reporters, “We have been simply plan to rubber stamp the plans.” ing in contrast to worldwide optimism used to the fact that Russia growls every Kasia Adamek following Senator Obama’s win, and now and then. I would not give too Recently, however, Nicolas Sarkozy - reminded the future U.S. president of much meaning to this declaration.” emboldened by France’s EU Presidency No Mercy for Shipyards Russian displeasure regarding contin- – dismayed Brussels by entering the ual efforts to install the missile defence During the televised keynote speech, fray, calling for both the U.S. and Rus- Anna Jarosz shield, which he believes is a threat to Mr. Medvedev also accused Washing- sia to stop the deployment of missiles in his nation’s security. ton of meddling prior to the Russo- Europe. The subsidies previously granted to the Gdynia and Szczecin shipyards were re- Georgian war, describing the conflict cently acknowledged to be illegal by the EU. The financial aid was originally de- “From what we have seen in recent as, “among other things, the result of At an EU-Russian summit in Nice early signed to help the yards stand alone rather than to prop them up, a requirement years - the creation of a missile defence the arrogant course of the American last month, the French president, self- that was not fulfilled. As a result, the government subsidies that kept the yards in system, the encirclement of Russia with administration, which did not tolerate appointed mediator of the missile crisis, business since 2002, amounting to 3.3 billion euros, are now to be repaid to the military bases, the relentless expansion criticism and preferred unilateral deci- said “deployment of a missile defence EU. The exact amount of the recoup is still to be calculated. However, since join- of NATO - we have gotten the clear sions.” system would bring nothing to secu- ing the EU, Poland has been granted 2.147 billion euros for the two shipyards. impression that they are testing our rity... it would complicate things, and strength,” said Medvedev. However, the speech was not only con- would make them move backward.” In order to give back the public aid the state has committed to restructuring the cerned with hostility towards the U.S., yards and to offering the companies for sale. The plan is to sell the restructured According to the Russian president, as the Russian leader made clear that His comments were immediately yards through an open tender by May 2009, ideally to one buyer. The Gdynia Iskander missiles – which are almost the prospect of a new U.S. presidency pounced upon by both the Czech Re- Shipyard and New Szczecin Shipyard are to be closed and the staff made redun- impossible to prevent from being could usher in an improved relation- public and Poland, with Prime Minis- dant. As per the EU requirements, there are to be no restrictions to the tender launched, and can easily overcome air ship with Washington. ter Tusk telling reporters, “President and the new entities can just as well move away from the shipbuilding industry. defence systems - will be deployed to Sarkozy has expressed his own point The sale is to allow the state to recover the money and repay the subsidies so that Kaliningrad, the Russian enclave lying “I stress that we have no problem with of view...[but] it will have no impact on the new yards will no longer be indebted and should be capable of functioning north-east of Poland near the Baltic the American people, no inborn anti- the future of the project.” effectively within the new organisations. Sea, in order to “neutralise, if necessary, Americanism. And we hope that our a missile defence system.” partners, the U.S. administration, will “The question of the anti-missile shield What has caused much distress is that the new owners will not be required to make a choice in favour of full-fledged is governed by an agreement between employ the current staff, and the European Commission gives no guarantees in Capable of travelling a distance of about relations with Russia.” Poland and the United States. It is above this respect. Still, the EC is ready to support the potentially dismissed employees 280 kilometres (175 miles), the Iskander all an American project,” he continued. with the help of European funds, particularly the European Globalization Ad- missile is able to reach targets in Poland Following the address, the Kremlin an- justment Fund and European Social Fund. The issue is being heavily discussed - but not in the Czech Republic. Rus- nounced that Medvedev sent a telegram “I don’t think that third-party coun- as some 60,000 jobs are at risk. The next shipyard on the EU list is the one in sian officials, however, have stated that to Obama saying he was “counting on a tries, even such good friends as France, Gdańsk and the decision on its future is expected shortly. With the Baltic ship- its range could be increased. constructive dialogue... on the basis of can have a particular right to express yards being the cradle of Solidarity, the situation is especially sensitive, both trust and taking each other’s interests themselves on this issue.” socially and politically. Medvedev also warned of using elec- krakow FEIJ Should your business be here? Get your business seen in 50,000 copies of Krakow’s only English-language newspaper! Distributed at over 250 top locations across the city including the international airport and on-board flights to the US, UK, Germany, France & Scandinavia! Question is... can you afford not to advertise with us? [email protected] tel: (012) 4291699 8 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

The Truth is Out There Murder in the Woods POLAND IN BRIEF

Danuta Filipowicz Brien Barnett Keep Your Feathers On, Duckie

“Every Police Province Headquarters less or sexually oriented, or are known A horse farmer suspected in the deaths Meanwhile, police had evidence that A Warsaw court has ruled that will have a division of criminal investi- or suspected to be part of a series, miss- of two men from southeastern Poland the suspect, Piotr M., had contact with it is not slanderous to refer to gation into unsolved cases - the X-Files ing people, unidentified dead bodies has been charged with murder despite the men about the time the two went President Kaczyński as a duck. department,” informed Marek Dyjasz where the manner of death is known or an apparent claim of self-defence. missing. Text messages sent from the The ruling came after several from Polish National Police. “Today, suspected to be homicide, sexual assault men’s phones to people on their contact years of journalistic japes. Kac- scientific knowledge plays an essen- cases, and other “non-standard” cases. Nearly a month after 28-year-old lists were determined to originate from zory is the Polish word for male tial role in criminal cases, [and] DNA Marcin Dziura of Rzeszów and Bogdan near the suspect’s farm, according to ducks, and the nickname stuck evidence solves previously unsolvable “It is very important to find the body of Kenar, 35, from Iwonicz, went missing, police and media reports. A letter that on President Kaczyński and his crimes. As [using] DNA analysis or the a victim,” underlined policemen. “It can the prime suspect, Piotr M., led police was recovered during the investigation brother Jarosław, not least be- fingerprint database has opened new take a few days, a few months, some- investigators to the bodies of the miss- suggested the men had left the area of cause of the siblings’ short but doors in solving crimes, we will come times even a few years. Usually murder- ing men. Their remains were buried in their own accord, but families of the portly stature. It is not the first back to the evidential materials collect- ers try to hide the body where no one a wooded area near Bukowsko in Po- men were surprised and doubted its time that nicknames have ruffled ed many years ago,” he added. would ever find it. They are ready to land’s Podkarpackie region. The bodies authenticity. Police also found that the presidential feathers. In 2006, burn it or cut in pieces and throw to the were retrieved, and family members suspect bought plastic sheeting at a Lech Kaczyński threatened to There are 17 provinces in Poland, but river,” they added. identified them. store in Rymanów the day before the sue a German daily for referring only six of them include this special men arrived. The bodies were found to him as “a potato.” operations group. The oldest X-Files The most shocking murder, still un- The men were reported missing on Oc- wrapped in plastic. department is in Krakow. It has dealt solved, is a case of a young woman tober 19th, four days after they failed to Astronomer Identified After with unsolved crimes since 1999 and killed 10 years ago in Krakow. The crew return to their homes after a planned The suspect, when confronted with the 600 Years has succeeded in catching over a dozen of a tugboat that cruised the Vistula trip to collect a horse from the suspect’s evidence during questioning by a pros- murderers. River found a sheet of skin. After DNA ranch, Wernejowka, near Puławy. Dzi- ecutor in early November, admitted to Scientists are claiming conclu- analysis police were sure that this is was ura had worked at the suspect’s ranch the shootings and led investigators to sive evidence in the discovery of “The truth is out there...” - or so FBI the skin of a missing student who had and was owed money and the horse the bodies. Police say the site was so one of Poland’s most illustrious agent Fox Mulder (played by David disappeared a few weeks earlier. The was offered as payment. Dziura’s friend remote and difficult to get to that with- citizens. Nicolaus Copernicus, Duchovny) used to say in the X-Files, perpetrator had removed the skin from Kenar went along to assist but had not out the suspect’s cooperation the bodies who postulated that the sun was an American science fiction television her entire torso. worked at the farm and may not have may have never been found. The car at the centre of the solar sys- series created by Chris Carter. In this known the suspect directly. the men used to drive to the farm the tem, was known to have been series, agents Mulder and Dana Scully Agents checked all the data available day they disappeared was located the buried at Frombork Cathedral (Gillian Anderson) were tasked with on local serial killers but they did not The suspect has claimed he shot the same day the bodies were found and in 1543. However, the grave investigating X-Files, the marginalised, find anything. The killer was probably men in self-defence, fearing wolves or was parked in the centre of Przemyśl, was unmarked, and the exact unsolved cases involving paranormal inspired by a very popular movie at the intruders. But investigators say the kill- nearly 90 km away from the hidden whereabouts of the astronomer phenomena. Unlike their television time, The Silence of the Lambs, directed ings were calculated and planned well graves in Bukowsko. remained a mystery. All this counterparts, the names of Krakow’s by Jonathan Demme. This is a story of in advance, with perhaps the motive changed in 2005, when archae- agents are top secret. A majority of lo- a young FBI trainee who is summoned being jealousy of Dziura’s acquaint- Since the discovery of the men’s deaths, ologists removed the bones of a cal policemen, some working even in to help find a serial killer called Buffalo ance with a woman who also worked at friends have established a blog to their man believed to be Copernicus. the same building, do not know them. Bill. Bill was killing young overweight the farm. It’s also thought that Dziura memory and post updates of the inves- This November, in a series of DNA The X-Files team are reluctant speak women so he could remove their skin may have witnessed the suspect fight- tigation and case. The blog, Solidarni tests, scientists compared the too much about their operative work. and fashion a “woman suit” for him- ing with another worker. It’s likely that z Bogdanem i Marcinem (Supporters bones with hairs discovered in a Contrary to the small screen agents, self because he believed himself to be Dziura was told to come alone to col- of Bogdan and Marcin), has photos of book that once belonged to the Krakow’s group is less focused on su- transsexual. Eerily enough, the Krakow lect the horse and Kenar was a victim of Kenar and Dziura and keeps readers astronomer. An identical match pernatural phenomena; however, they case is very similar. Policemen from the circumstance. Police reports show that updated on the progress of the case and was found, and the Renaissance do not rule out co-operation with X-Files department still hope that this Kenar was shot through the back into offers them a chance to post their con- man will soon be allowed to rest clairvoyants. Looking for dead bodies dark murder will be solved. the heart, while Dziura was bound and dolences. in peace. from a helicopter with a thermovision gagged and may have been forced to camera and georadar is sometimes not “Time is working for us sometimes. write a note before he was killed with Dziura was respected for his work with Stand-off Over German enough. People who have committed an offence two shots from the back. horses. His sister told TVN the horse Remembrance Day cope with stress for months, maybe he was expecting to receive as pay- Agents from the X-Files department years, but one day they cannot do it, The suspect reportedly held a valid reg- ment was to be used to help build his Polish diplomats pulled out of a analyse the characteristics of victims the tension is too big and they [end up] istration for a sporting rifle and shot- own horse operation. One reader of the recent ceremony in memory of and potential perpetrators, investigate coming to our office. Of course it does gun, and is described as a fit man who blog knew Dziura and described him as German war dead. On 16th No- those who have had contact with a vic- not necessarily apply to those who are was very familiar with the outdoors in “a very nice and honest boy that would vember, German officials laid tim, and plan interrogation strategies. mentally ill or repeat offenders,” relates the region. never hurt anyone.” wreaths at Warsaw’s North Cem- They single out suspected murderers, a policeman from another X-Files de- etery, where many Wehrmacht then strike. It may sound like the job partment in Katowice. “At the end of When first interviewed, police reported The men’s funerals were held in No- veterans are buried. Most of the of a standard policeman, but the en- October this year a 28-year-old man the suspect had claimed not to have vember with hundreds, including the 362 German soldiers are unidenti- tire Krakow team have been trained in came to us and said that he had killed a seen the men on October 15th, the day very shocked horse farming commu- fied, but the majority fell during Quantico (USA) in the National Cent- woman. He had to tell police about the they set off for his farm and then went nity, turning out to offer sympathies. the Polish Uprising against Nazi er for the Analysis of Violent Crime murder. This man showed remorse af- missing. Searches commenced of possi- rule of 1944. Over 200,000 civil- (NCAVC) of the Federal Bureau of In- ter... six years,” underlined the agent. ble locations where the men may have Although now remanded to custody ians perished during the Warsaw vestigation (FBI). They are working on had a car accident, perhaps driving into for only three months, the suspect will Uprising, and it has been claimed unsolved cases which are not yet stale. “The final success of the X-Files [de- a river, pond or bush-covered ditch. likely be held for the duration of the that General Franz Kutschera, According to Polish law, after 30 years partment’s] activities depends on deter- Searchers checked forests near Puławy, investigation and throughout the trial. who ordered countless execu- police cannot do anything even if they mination, technique and on the people a reservoir in Sieniawa and made en- The suspect is reported to have had tions, may be amongst those find the perpetrator. who are able to use it,” said Marek Dy- quiries into border areas of Germany an accident a few years ago, with sub- interred at the North Cemetery. jasz. After all, each crime is different, so and Slovakia. The family hired a private sequent brain surgery, and he will un- It was the first time that Polish Cases examined by X-Files departments it is not always easy to find an algorithm detective to aid in the search. Friends of dergo a mental examination as part of ministers were invited to take include: solved or unsolved homicides for revealing them all. the men also used the popular Polish the investigation. The suspect faces life part in the annual Volkstrauertag or attempted murders, cases involving social networking site Nasza Klasa to in prison if convicted of premeditated (Germany’s “Day of Mourning”). an abduction, cases which are motive- get the word out. murder. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 9 Opinion Polish Foot in Mouth Syndrome

by Robert Szmigielski

ou have very special and insane Well, frankly, who isn’t? Maybe more importantly people sitting in the parliament,” though, we should be asking why a man who cam- began the e-mail from my Russo- paigned in 2006 for Jesus Christ to be crowned King German pal, with whom I spar on of Poland was allowed to speak at all. “Yall things political, philosophical, and generally con- troversial. “But their insanity doesn’t match anything Naturally, everyone associated with his party dis- Dominik Nawrocki I’ve seen in Russia...” tanced themselves from the comments, with senior PiS politician Joachim Brudziński considering dis- I was shocked with his rather bold statement - but ciplinary action and calling the statement “absolute- Interview as I scrolled down, clicked on his links and surveyed ly scandalous.” Similarly, President Lech Kaczyński the damage, I decided that, sadly, he was right. said the remarks were “astonishing, unacceptable, by Wojciech Michnik and racist,” adding, “clearly neither It was the day after the U.S. election, I, nor the vast majority of the party, Professor Patrick Vaughan teaches American history at the Institute of and everything seemed to be rosy. I “What share views of this sort.” American Studies and Polish Diaspora at Jagiellonian University. He was still in the throes of my Obama- received his PhD from the University of West Virginia. His forthcoming infused euphoria - but that bubble Clearly? Well, not quite. biography of Zbigniew Brzeziński will be published in the spring of 2009. quickly burst. What started with “Yes started We Can,” and finished with “Yes We A few days later, news reports surfaced Let’s start from trying to answer the question of why Barack Obama Did,” suddenly turned into “Oh No with ‘Yes of more derogatory comments aimed won? Was it really the anti-Bush factor that played the crucial role in He Didn’t!” towards president-elect Obama, in this election? We Can,’ this case in the form of a racist joke Obama won mainly because of the fatigue in American society. Ameri- My friend, of course, was referring heard in the halls of the Sejm. None cans were tired of the Bush administration as well as of the almost sev- to Artur Górski, the PiS small-time other than former PM and PiS party en year war that the United States has been fighting since September politician, who thought the momen- and fin- head Jarosław Kaczyński was cited as 11th, 2001. He also won the White House because of his personal skills tous occasion called for a statement one of the wisecrackers. Oh, Karma! and the way he conducted himself during the campaign. He certainly filled with outrageous racist and big- ished You do choose the most inopportune looked more confident than his adversary and for American people he oted overtones, leading unsurpris- of moments... just seemed to be the better future commander-in-chief. Obama also ingly to a media frenzy shortly after, with ‘Yes never lost his cool during the campaign and he proved that he was a with: “Poland Condemns Lawmaker’s What is abundantly clear, however, is trans-generational candidate, liked by the young and also by older vot- Anti-Obama Slur” and “Polish MP that Poland’s politicians and leaders ers. Slammed Over Racist Obama Re- We Did,’ have a responsibility, and right now marks” amongst many cringe-worthy they are failing miserably - letting How would you explain the phenomenon of “Obamamania” outside headlines that graced the pages of the suddenly down and embarrassing their citi- of the United States? world’s publications that afternoon. zens on an international scale. With Well, I think that it has had a lot to do with anti-Bush resentment, espe- turned homophobic, xenophobic, and racist cially in Europe. But like I said before, Obama has also this extra qual- Great. Arguably the most ground- remarks consistently coming from ity that people recognize that he can be a great leader for the United breaking and momentous day in U.S. into ‘Oh the direction of Polish officials, may- States. electoral history, and Poland man- be the U.S. is not the only country in aged to grab a slice for all the wrong need of Change. Speaking of Europe, what does Obama’s victory mean for the future reasons. Most governments rejoiced No He of Euro-American relations? It has been no secret that during the at America’s new dawn, and those But outrageous comments by Poland’s Bush administration these relations have been enormously dam- who didn’t (and this is crucial) did Didn’t!’ top statesmen aside, let’s look on the aged. so in private, thus avoiding humili- bright side for one moment – be- Yes, indeed. But right now it is time for repairing these transatlantic ation. cause really, we haven’t much choice. ties. And not only because Europe is an important partner for the As one of my colleagues at the Krakow Post noted, United States but also because it is a crucial partner. My prediction is Górski, however, cemented his place in white-su- American journalists will have little to write about that Obama’s plan is to go quickly to the Middle East to try to look premacist folklore (Google his name and see) by call- once the Bush era is over. for a breakthrough in the relations between Israel and Palestine. We ing Obama a “a black crypto-communist” and warn- might also expect a big international conference on the future of Iraq ing of “an approaching catastrophe that will end the Thankfully, for writers in Poland there are no such (with participation of all the main actors in the Middle East and other civilisation of the white man.” worries in the near future. Because as long as poli- regions). I’m talking about this because from the European perspective, ticians like Górski and his pals exist (and there I think that the road to the Middle East goes through Europe. America Then, perhaps somewhat confusingly, he stated: “Al- are plenty), there’ll always be something to write needs its European partners if it wishes to mend the situation in the Qaeda will be rubbing their hands with joy because about... Middle East. the new president chooses peace over war.”

The last question has to deal with Poland. What can Poland expect from the future administration? The Bush administration, especially in the early years, took Poland for granted. They thought that whatever the United States does, Po- land would follow. And then Polish-American relations were mainly perceived through the prism of wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. Obama will certainly be less engaged militarily in world affairs. So the role of Poland in American foreign policy will have to evolve as well. Well, I wouldn’t be too worried about Poland’s relations with the United States as long as Zbigniew Brzeziński advises Obama on this subject. 10 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com Feature 2008: YEAR IN REVIEW

ith another year coming to an end, the Krakow Post takes a look back at the most memorable moments Win Polish politics and society of 2008. “We are here to fight for your freedom, and ours.” – President Lech Kaczyński concluding his speech in front of an exuberant crowd in Tbilisi, Georgia on 12 August

“Poland is one of America’s greatest friends.” – U.S. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice on signing the missile shield agreement

Missile defence will attempt to protect Europe and America from “rogue states” - by Dominik Nawrocki Will the missile defence plan become Poland’s Achilles shield? - by Kasia Adamek

“Never did we imagine that we would have a centre, a home, for the whole community of Krakow. Many think this community was entirely devastated by the Nazis but there is such life here still.” - Ryszard Orowski, Holocaust survivor, on the opening of the new Jewish Community Centre in Krakow

Ireland rejects the Lisbon Treaty - by Kasia Adamek

“I’m afraid it will be even worse. A real apocalypse awaits the stock market before long.” - Marek Rogalski, head analyst for DM First International Traders, in an interview with Dziennik on the 22nd of January

“It’s a very important decision. We want to be a fully-fledged member

of the EU.” Polish postal workers go on strike – President Lech Kaczynski, on France opening its job market to Poles - by Dominik Nawrocki

“Only people of ill intent should fear this agreement.” – Foreign Minister Radoslaw Sikorski on the missile shield agreement Poland and Ukraine have had a shaky beginning to preparations for Euro 2012 - by Kasia Adamek www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 11 Feature 2008: YEAR IN REVIEW

Back & Forth

“The imposition of martial law ended the peaceful Solidarity revolution. It destroyed the hopes of millions of Poles.” - Mirosław Czech, Gazeta Wyborcza, on General Wojciech Jaruzelski’s trial

“Martial law was a rescue for our country and Polish society from a disaster in many ways. I uphold this evaluation with utmost conviction.” - General Wojciech Jaruzelski

*********** “The deal absolutely, clearly demonstrates what we had said earlier: the deployment (of the system) has the Russian Federa- tion as its target.” – Russian President Dmitry Medvedev on the U.S. missile shield

“It’s in the interests of my country to have the closest possible relations with the United States... but this isn’t militarily aimed against Russia in any way.” – President Kaczyński on the missile shield, after the Russo-Georgian conflict

*********** “The black messiah of the new left has crushed the Republican candidate John McCain, and America will soon pay a high price for this quirk of democracy… Obama is an approaching catastrophe. This marks the end of white man’s civilisation… Someone regarded by the [American] Republican right as a crypto-communist has become the leader of the world’s greatest power ... and al Qaeda are rubbing their hands with glee that the new president wants peace, not war.” – MP Artur Górski, PiS

“As a general rule, the Foreign Ministry does not comment on the behaviour of individual members of parliament, because they What if Sarah Palin moved to Poland? have freedom of expression. This time, however, we find it crucial to express our strong disapproval of Artur Górski’s words.” - by Kasia Adamek – Polish Foreign Ministry

Is Lech Wałęsa a Solidarity hero or a former informer codenamed “Bolek?” - by Dominik Nawrocki

“What matters is that the nation is effective, not cheap.

Barszcz or automobiles can be cheap.” Polish president and PM take power struggle to Brussels - by Kasia Adamek - Grzegorz Kołodko, former SLD minister of finance, on the illusive benefits of lowering taxes Gaffes & Laughs

“We have had the Iraqi Kurds who carry knives and the Poles and the Lithu- anians who carry knives. If it is normal to carry them where you come from, you need to educate them pretty quickly.” - British Chief Constable Julie Spence

“Mr. Sikorski did not tell a racist joke. He was only giving an example of the unpalatable and racist ‘jokes’ that surround President Elect Obama.” - Piotr Paszkowski, spokesman for the Polish foreign office, on Foreign Minister Sikorski’s “joke”

“Obama was certainly a creation of the media. Today we see that media creations can win elections, but we know this already in Poland.” - Jarosław Kaczyński after the American presidential election

“Whatever existed before – let’s say – is so marked by an unclear line, that what could come up on the side of Russia, I believe at this moment will not come up.” - Jarosław Kaczyński, former prime minister and known babbler, on the More reports surface on alleged CIA prisons in Poland - by Dominik Nawrocki topic of Polish-Russian relations 12 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com Business & Technology

Global Enterprise Week in Krakow Icelandic Bailout Danuta Filipowicz

Anna Spysz Polish authorities have de- and 2015. ne morning in November, cided to participate in the Geir H. Haarde, Iceland’s instead of the usual sounds International Monetary Prime Minister, expressed of typing and the sipping Fund (IMF) economic sta- his gratitude to the Polish of coffee, the Krakow Post bilisation program for Ice- government for its deci- HQO was filled with laughing children, as land, after the collapse of sion. “We are very grateful 27 members of the second grade class the island’s banking sys- for this act of friendship,” from Public School nr 72 piled into the tem. Iceland was among informed Fréttabladid, offices. the first countries to be the Icelandic daily news- affected by the financial paper with the largest No, the recession has not caused the crisis. circulation. “The Polish paper to moonlight as a day care centre finance minister told our (yet). Rather, the visit was part of the Iceland, which required finance minister that they “Światowy Tydzień Przedsiębiorczości” USD 6 billion to solve its wanted to do this among or Global Enterprise Week, in which problems, received help other reasons because groups of pupils (along with their teach- from the European group they had experienced dif- ers) visit local businesses all around Po- along with the IMF loan of ficulties like this them- land. The smiling 2nd graders of P.S. 72 at the Krakow Post office USD 2.1 billion. The rest selves twenty years ago of the money will come and received assistance The week was set up with the idea of from the Nordic States, much like the kind we are showing young children what a working Great Britain, the Neth- in need of. But also be- environment looks like, and to get them erlands, Poland and sev- cause they have an exten- interested in various business fields they eral other countries. The sive and positive connec- might otherwise not have any contact Polish government will tion with Iceland through with. On that note, the staff of the Post contribute about USD 200 the great number of Polish encouraged the youngsters to make million (EUR 155 million) citizens who have worked their own newspapers, which turned out to a multinational loan here,” Haarde added. some rather creative results. package to Iceland, ac- cording to Magdalena Ko- It is estimated that there In Krakow, participating companies in- bos, a spokesperson from are over 10,000 Poles cluded businesses from the U.S., the UK, the Polish Ministry of Fi- in Iceland. The number France, Zimbabwe, and Poland. The nance. of Polish citizens living week of the 10-14th of November saw in Iceland has possibly participation from 92 firms signed up According to the press re- dropped by 2,500 or 3,000 for the programme throughout Poland. lease from the Icelandic in the past two months, government the recov- but there is a large group More information about the Global En- ery program will last two who are likely to remain terprise Week can be found at their web- years and Iceland will re- on the island. site: www.tydzienprzedsiebiorczosci.pl Making newspapers in the office pay the loan between 2012 krakow FEIJ Where is your business?

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rakow, due to for- For this reason numerous mul- and key public institutions. The uled for completion within the eign investments, tinational corporations such as area in town with the greatest fourth quarter of 2009. has lately become a IBM, Capgemini, Philip Morris concentration of office accom- city with one of the and other influential compa- modation is in the vicinity of Approximately 5,300 m2 of a mostK tempting building trades nies have moved their offices to Lubicz Street: Mogilskie and class “A” modern office space in Europe. According to the Krakow. The office trade covers Grzegorzeckie Roundabouts. is being created on a 2,800 m2 economic statistics of the last about half of the current re- There you can find office build- plot by the Przybyszewskiego thirty years, the Polish building quests on the building market. ings like Centrum Biurowe Lu- and Lea Street junction, with trade has increased by 33 per- The demand, however, relies on bicz (13,800 m2), which is the parking spaces for about 50 cent, whereas in Krakow, the some particular requisites, such largest city centre office build- cars. The company has signed building market hit a growth of as a good location in relation ing in Krakow, as well as Nowa a 12 million złoty credit agree- about 58 percent. Nevertheless, to public transportation, build- Kamienica (3,500 m2), Cracov- ment with BZ WBK S.A to fund over the last year the industry ings exclusively containing of- ia Business Centre (13,200 m2), this project. began moving in the opposite fices and not private properties, Lobos (1,000 m2) and Pliva direction, with a consequent parking spaces and a lift. Having (2,700 m2). decrease in interest among for- all of these features places these Offering approximately 15,400 eign buyers. The latter dropped offices in the “A” category. In addition, the office space m2 of high standard office space down by approximately 40 per- that is located outside of the with 246 parking spaces within cent during last year. Recent statistics have shown city centre covers approxi- two underground levels is the that Krakow is only covered by mately 66 percent of the entire Kazimierz Office Centre, situ- And yet, the buzz of the mo- 60,000 m2 of office space, against space. Most buildings are con- ated next to the popular Galeria ment is around the construc- the 140,000 m2 in Wrocław, and centrated in locations like the Kazimierz, which belongs to the tion of offices. Krakow is be- 430,000 m2 in Warsaw. Krakow Czyzyny Special Economic Zone Globe Trade Centre project. coming a fascinating place for has some catching up to do if it that covers about 4,300 m2 and international businesses to in- wants to remain competitive in includes the office buildings of The demand for the most pres- vest in the construction or ex- Poland, and numerous plans are Euromarket (10,000 m2), Gali- tigious office space is system- pansion of office buildings. In in the works. leo (10,000 m2), Zasada Cen- atically growing. And accord- particular, the recent expansion trum (2,900 m2), and Brama ing to experts, it is expected to of IBM and Accounting Plaza The M65 Medusa Class “A” of- Bobrowiecka (2,600 m2). In the increase further as the economy caused a big excitement in the fice building, ready in De- southwest of the city we have in Krakow gets stronger. Now business field. cember, is an example of a the Colosseum Office Building seems to be the time to invest constantly growing demand. (2.300 m2). The Globe Trade in commercial properties in the Many investors and company It holds 4,600 m2 of office ac- Centre (GTC) is currently picturesque city of Krakow. directors choose Krakow for commodation layered on eight launching the construction of living in, rather than larger in- floors, and with easy reach to a new office building, the Pas- dustrial cities such as Warsaw. Krakow’s main office district cal Building, which is sched- 14 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com Sport Post

Pole Position for Krakow Ace SPORT IN BRIEF Daniël van Hoven Delayed Victory for Relay Team

A review of Robert Kubica’s promising year Almost a decade after the event, Poland’s 4x400 metres Wojciech Galon relay team can call themselves World Champions of 1999. The IAAF (the highest governmental n the back of a diffi- body in athletics) decided to cult season in 2007, erase all achievements by any few could have ex- U.S. relay team in the period pected Robert Ku- 1997-2003, after it came to light bica,O Poland’s first ever Formula 1 that the athletes were using il- driver, to bounce back with such legal substances. Besides the success in 2008. World Cup win, Poland’s fourth place in 1997 is also affected, A national hero and arguably Po- now meriting a bronze medal. land’s most popular sportsman, The remarkable 1999 perform- Kubica has come a long way in a ance was pulled off by Tomasz short time since stepping up to Czubak, Robert Maćkowiak, the plate and joining the big boys Jacek Bocian and Piotr Haczek. in Formula 1 racing in 2006. And thanks to a showing of unmatched Zgorzelec bashes Bamberg in consistency this year, he is un- Basketball Cup doubtedly living up to his billing as a future world champion. Polish basketball team PGE Turow Zgorzelec has humili- After a 2008 campaign that en- ated German side BB Bamberg tailed a maiden race win, seven in the first match round of the podium finishes and the first ever group stages of the European pole position for the BMW Sau- Basketball ULEB Cup. The Poles ber team, it comes as no surprise dominated the whole game, se- that the rising star is eying anoth- curing a 69-39 win, with an ex- er, more serious title challenge in ceptionally well played second 2009. quarter (25-5). The ULEB Cup is the second highest European From a modest upbringing in Kra- Basketball tournament, next to kow, Kubica has transformed For- the Champions League. mula One’s standing in Poland. Robert Kubica driving for BMW Sauber at the 2008 Canadian Grand Prix / photo Mark McArdle His progress is followed intently by the Polish public, with millions Five teams fight for Football Title tuning in every fortnight to watch his races. This comes in a country Excitement is the order of the where prior to the pre-Kubica era, day in the European Football there was an evident absence of a mi Raikonnen, Felipe Massa and fascinating Formula One season, Prix, BMW boss Mario Theissen Leagues, and in Poland it is no significant motorsport tradition, eventual world champion, Lewis with the team unable to match the admitted that the team’s working different. Although the Polish with Formula One rarely screened Hamilton. speed of Ferrari and McLaren. Ku- relationship with their star driver Ekstraklasa does not hold a on television. bica thus saw his title aspirations was sometimes strained due to select number of steady title Thanks to an impressively low er- wane before eventually dropping Kubica’s determination to stay contenders, every season ei- For a while this season, it even ror count on the track, both Ku- out of the running in China. in the championship hunt, and ther Wisla or Legia are always seemed like the 24-year-old bica and Heidfeld were able to the team’s inability to match the somewhere near the top spot. might achieve the impossible. challenge for podium finishes at To add insult to injury, he eventu- progress of Ferrari and McLaren. This year however, the two tro- Following the first three races nearly every round during the 18- ally lost out in his bid to knock phy-touting teams saw fierce of the 2008 campaign, BMW sat race season. Kubica was widely Kimmi Raikonnen off the podium Yet, despite speculation about competition from a strong Lech atop the Constructors’ Champi- regarded as the most consistent in the Drivers’ Championship af- both of their futures, Kubica and Poznan, the surprisingly suc- onship. Four races later, follow- driver in 2008, a point justified ter a disastrous finale in Brazil. A Heidfeld have been retained for cessful promoted team Polonia, ing a 1-2 finish with teammate by the fact that coming into the gamble to use dry tyres saw the 2009, with the team publicly voic- and a consistent GKS. The five Nick Heidfeld in Canada, Kubica penultimate race of the season Pole finish out of the points and ing their aspirations to give them teams are constantly swapping became the unexpected leader of in China he had scored points in surrender his overall third place a championship challenging car places and are within three the Drivers’ Championship. What more races than Hamilton and to the 2007 world champion. and help them battle for the title. points of one another, with only was more impressive was that this Massa. He also won the respect two rounds to go before the breakthrough Formula One vic- of fans and commentators alike, BMW’s inability to match the The Pole has already cut into his longest winter break in Europe- tory came at the circuit where he with former world champion pace of Ferrari and McLaren was winter break to test elements of a an league football commences. suffered a horrific crash in 2007 Jacques Villeneuve claiming the an obvious source of friction be- 2009 car that holds new technical Right now, Polonia leads with from which, extraordinarily, he Pole would have been the most tween Kubica and his team, and specifications as part of sweeping 31, followed by Lech, Legia and emerged with only a sprained an- worthy winner of the 2008 cham- Kubica didn’t hesitate to publicly changes in Formula 1 next year. Wisla at 30 and GKS with 28 kle. pionship due to his steady show- voice his frustration over BMW’s And few would doubt that if Ku- points. At the bottom, Górnik ings throughout the year. failure to match the other teams’ bica can find the answers to fix Zabrze took over the last place As the year progressed, the Pole development rate in the second the mistakes of 2008, he’ll push in the table from Cracovia, af- stubbornly, yet effectively, com- Yet, avoiding mistakes proved half of the year. McLaren and Ferrari even harder ter the Cracovians won a game peted for the championship not enough as BMW fell off the in 2009. against Górnik last week. against the more favoured Kim- pace towards the later stages of a Following the Brazilian Grand www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 15 Culture

Londyńczycy CULTURE IN BRIEF Alicja in Wonderland

Tim Burton’s take on Lewis Car- Polish “Londoners” premieres on the small screen oll’s classic will have some dis- Robert Szmigielski tinctly Polish dimensions. The lead role has been scooped by Mia Wasikowska, the Australian- born daughter of a Polish couple. Meanwhile, Burton’s director of photography will be Dariusz Wol- ski, best known as the cinema- tographer of the Pirates of the Carribean trilogy. Mr. Wolski has previously worked with Burton on Sweeney Todd, and he joins a long line of outstanding Polish cin- ematographers with international careers. Schindler’s List (Janusz Kaminski), Frantic (Witold Soboc- inski) and Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix (Slawomir Idziak) are amongst many West- ern films shot by graduates of the famed Lodz Film School. Alice in Wonderland is due for release in March 2010.

Puppeteers in Poland

Celebrated animators the Quay Brothers have not one but two Polish projects in the pipeline. First up is The Trace’s Inventory, a fanciful film about Count Jan Potocki (1761-1815), the eccen- tric author, ethnologist and hot air balloon enthusiast. The brothers shot the film in Lancut Palace, one of the Count’s former residences. Hot on the heels of the Potocki film is The Hour Glass Sanatori- um, which delves into the prose of Above: Wojtek played by Marcin Bosak. Will he outwit the mafia? “the Polish Kafka,” Bruno Schulz. It’s the second time the brothers have turned to Schulz, following The Street of Crocodiles (1986), a film cited by Terry Gilliam as one et’s be honest; soap operas million viewers for the premiere, and it’s an attempt to show many sides of Certainly, the series looks slicker of the all-time greats. in Poland have never been with a grand budget of 13.5 million the story.” than anything else you’d find on much to shout about. Apart złotys (not to mention an impres- Polish television, and with Piccadilly from stopping the surpris- sive cast and crew), it appears the Stories like Andrzej’s, a college drop- Circus, Notting Hill, and other flash Masterpieces Swiped Lingly sharp-elbowed mohair-beret program’s makers have trail-blazed out who came to London with his locations giving it a glitzy feel, it’s militia from roaming the streets in through Polish television’s old order childhood sweetheart in the hope easy to see why. But are stories like Portraits by two of Poland’s most the evenings, the tacky Polish serial like the proverbial bull in a china of earning money for their wedding. Andrzej’s representative of London’s feted pre-war artists have been has always struggled behind other shop. But following a run of bad luck, he Polonia, or just jazzed-up entertain- stolen from a Warsaw gallery. The European countries in terms of qual- found London to be not the place he ment designed to hook audiences? alarm was sounded by the direc- ity. Surprising, given the high cali- Clearly it’s big news, but what is it imagined. Zglinski believes it to be a bit of tor of Desa auction house on Tues- bre of Polish filmmakers – the likes about Londyńczycy that has audi- both. day 18th November. Allegedly, a of which include prestigious names ences clamouring to their sofas every “He comes from one of the smaller thief broke through the window such as Polański, Kieślowski and Thursday night? Łodz Film School cities in Poland,” explains Leszek “The idea arose from the scriptwrit- in the middle of the night, spir- Wajda. graduate and director Greg Zglinski Żurek, who plays the character. “His ers who were in London for a few iting away 400,000 zlotys worth believes it’s the kaleidoscope of char- father is gone, so he’s head of the weeks,” he explains. “They met with of goods. Portrait of a Man in a But since late October, the future of acters and their experiences that sets family – and responsible for provid- Poles, and heard various stories - so Landscape by Jacek Malczewski the Polish soap seems to have entered it apart from the rest. ing for his family. That’s what moti- the program is inspired by real ac- and Portrait of a Lady by Stanis- a renaissance with TVP launching vates him.” counts.” law Ignacy Witkiewicz are classic Londyńczycy, a big-budget series fol- “Londyńczycy is like a mosaic - a col- examples of works by those art- lowing the lives and fortunes of Poles lection of different stories,” he says. “But everything fell apart in Lon- He continues: “We worked hard to ists. Questions have been raised who moved to London. “We look at the emigration phenom- don,” he adds. “He was supposed to make sure it wasn’t a typical soap but about the quality of security at enon from various angles: a young return to Poland with his girlfriend, more like a drama, and that it was the auction house. An expensive and hugely visible mar- girl after her exams, a family with a but their relationship breaks down. made to a good, profes- >> 16 keting campaign attracted nearly 6 child, a post-WW2 Polish émigré... Now he doesn’t know what to do.” sional standard. But it’s not 16 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

<< 15 Londynczycy (continued)

a documentary, so it’s not real life. It’s individuals that simply must figure a selection of stories that have been out how to cope, and make the best dramatised.” out of a tricky situation.”

The program seems to have divided With high ratings, interest shown opinion amongst viewers. A quick all over the world, and rumours of scan on Polish ex-patriot forums a potential deal with the BBC, the shows heavy criticism towards pro- Londyńczycy team have clearly raised gram-makers for portraying life in the bar. This comes as no surprise to London as a struggle – with some Zglinski, a former student of mas- accusing the show of anti-immigrant ter storyteller Krzysztof Kieślowski, propaganda. who believes the topical nature of Londyńczycy makes it necessary However, Żurek thinks the portrayal viewing. of the capital is honest, and exposes the turbulent nature of Europe’s most “The subject is certainly important,” diverse city. he stresses. “To observe what hap- pens to the people that left [Poland], “It represents a true image of Lon- and how it affects their lives - if don, or rather, all sides: black and they are coping, what they are going white, not only grey. It shows a cross- through – all these are real issues. It’s section of immigrant Polish society, crucial to tell these stories because and there are a lot of incidents as ultimately it shows how people adapt a result. It’s about how these two to a different world.” worlds collide.

He continues: “These things really happen to some people, so it’s im- Londyńczycy airs Thursdays at portant to portray them. These are 21:10 on TVP1. Above: Ewa, played by Gabriela Muskała. Feelings for another man...

FILM FLASHBACK Stanisław Różewicz: 1924-2008

An old joke told by the intelligentsia holds that the Polish Church functions best in a state of mild repression, a theory borne out by the partition era and communist rule. Strange as it might sound, the same thesis has been applied to Polish cinema. Film may have flourished in Poland before the war, and likewise, plenty of movies have been made since the fall of the Iron Curtain. But the golden age of Polish filmmaking did indeed come during the Cold War era, when directors were denied free- dom of expression and had to engage in a curious balancing act with the censors.

Stanisław Różewicz was one of a glittering array of directors to emerge in Poland in the aftermath of World War II. Alongside Andrzej Wajda, Wojciech Has, Roman Polański and Jerzy Kawalerowicz, Różewicz will be remembered as one of the leading filmmakers of his generation. Born in Radomsko in 1924, the son of a court official, Różewicz was one of three siblings. The fate of his family was to prove inextricable from his artistic career. His eldest brother, Janusz, was a Home Army officer who was executed by the Gestapo during the Warsaw Uprising. Middle brother, Tadeusz, survived the war and went on to become an internationally acclaimed poet and writer, regularly collaborating with Stanisław on screenplays.

As the director of over twenty films and founder of the legendary TOR film studio, Różewicz has been consistently hailed as a great moral authority and a man of decidedly modest character. His films explored a wide range of themes, taking in the Second World War (Westerplatte, 1967), intimate psychological dramas (Samotność we Dwoje / Loneliness for Two, 1968), and wry explorations of fate, such as the fantastical comedy Piekło i Niebo (Heaven and Hell, 1966). Różewicz also revealed an uncanny flair for conjuring the distant past, as witnessed in his nineteenth century excursions Romantyczni (The Roman- tics, 1970) and Pasja (Passion, 1978).

As a director, he explored the complexities of fate and human relationships without falling victim to simplistic romanticism. At TOR he was a mentor to some of the outstanding artists of the next generation, including Krzysztof Zanussi, Krzysztof Kieślowski and Antoni Krauze. His students recall a gentleman who fostered a unique artistic atmosphere, where boorish loudmouths - no matter how talented - were unlikely to go far, but subtle, creative souls could flourish.

Różewicz avoided the celebrity circuit, and in recent years he remained a quiet, diffident figure who best enjoyed the com- pany of close friends and family. His autumn years saw several excursions into documentary film, largely semi-autobiograph- ical works connected with his childhood, including a tribute to his elder brother Janusz. Photo by Tomasz Komorowski Over the years Różewicz was honoured at many film festivals, both Polish and international, including Cannes, Venice and San Sebastian. He is survived by his wife and son. Image courtesy of Museum of Cinematography, Łódź. www.kinomuzeum.pl PHOTO OF THE MONTH www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 17 Culture

PHOTO OF THE MONTH REEL LIFE Quantum of Solace Bond No. 24

For any Brit brought up on Bond, bias is bound to come into play when a new 007 flick rears its head. Many moons ago, when this reviewer was pulling cats’ tails and engaging in water pistol shoot-outs, the magic of Bond was carried by Roger Moore. Who else could swan over a bridge of live crocs like some nineteenth century lord on the way to the opera? The Brosnan films are best forgotten, and Casino Royale seemed the most boring Bond ever committed to celluloid. But for this disillusioned fan (and reformed cat pest), Quantum of Solace slotted several key elements back into place. First off, the music. Af- ter the all-time low of Madonna’s “Die Another Day,” we finally get a decent opening tune. Hats off to Generalissimo Jack White. Next up, director Marc Forster has endowed the locations with a palpable sense of mystique. Bond simply has to inhabit interesting places. It doesn’t matter whether their glamour is seedy or suave, but these worlds must weave a spell. Forster delivers again on this score. Above all, Bond needs a classy villain, and finally we get one in Mathieu Amalric. Whoever it was who came up with the idea of casting a Frenchman as the bad guy deserves a double gold medal. At last a rogue with style and panache. He’s not as flamboyant as Zorin and co, but he has subtlety and finesse. As it was, Casino Royale seemed to lack a single memorable character, but its sequel boasts a dozen. Last but not least, we arrive at that crucial casting decision - Daniel Craig. This reviewer was unconvinced by Craig’s take on Bond in Casino Royale, but he was gradually won over this time round. Prizes at Cannes are unlikely to be forthcoming, but it seems there’s life in the old Bond yet. Nick Hodge

SHELF IMPROVEMENT A Round-Up of Recent Coffee Table Books

The Post is hazarding a guess that this is the one time of year that you might splash out on a colossal coffee table book. As it goes, there’s been an explosion of such albums of late. So, like an uncannily literary shark, we’re opening our jaws to snap up only the tastiest tomes in town. First off, let’s have a sniff at photo albums. The wide-ranging Polish Photography in the 20th Century makes for a fine purchase, whilst for an up-to- December’s Photo of the Month was taken by Łukasz Maj, www.picasaweb.google.com/lucas.maj the-minute take, Malopolska.Photographs.Unclarified is a delightfully quirky regional portrait, replete with Polish Red Indians, dachshund parades and beauty queens. For The Krakow Post together with the Academy of Photography continues its year-long photography contest. nostalgia, BOSZ is one of the leading publishing houses of the moment, and history buffs will be seduced by their pre-war collections. Poland in Old Photographs is the best of Each month, the Krakow Post will choose one picture from amongst those sent in by readers to appear as the “Photo the bunch. Next up, for an intro to Polish art, Kluszczynski (another superb imprint) of the Month.” The winner will receive a free consultation with a lecturer from the Academy of Photography. In DE- has produced the finest general album on the market so far with The Art of Poland. CEMBER 2009, a Grand Prix winner will be chosen from amongst the previous 12 winners, who will receive a brand- The English translation is passable, and the plates superb. For readers interested in new Nikon digital SLR camera, as well as a free course from the Academy in either English or Polish. Poland’s Jewish heritage, Heaven’s Gates: Wooden Synagogues in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth is nothing short of a masterpiece. Meanwhile, the International Culture The goal of the contest is to entice all of Krakow’s residents – English-speaking as well – to use photography as a Centre published the excellent A World Before a Catastrophe on Jewish Krakow to ac- means of artistic expression. The additional chance to receive professional advice will no doubt be useful in further company their exhibition of the same name. For a general book on Krakow, the ICC’s photographic experimentation. recently re-issued Cracow in the European Core has bite-sized chapters and first class pics. Finally, for more specific subjects, The Early Years of Nowa Huta (Fundacja Imago Mundi) offers a mind-boggling insight into the Orwellian Soviet city. For more communist Please send all entries for January’s “Photo of the Month” to [email protected] by December 15th. era flashbacks, try Jerzy Piatek’sSmutek i urok Prowincji or Tadeusz Rolke’s Fotografie: All submitted photographs must be taken in Krakow. 1944-2005. The theme is open. All photographic albums can be found at the wonderful f5 bookshop above Cafe Cam- elot (enter via the cafe at ul. Sw. Tomasza 17). For historical albums, try Hetmanska or Matras, both on the Market Square (nos. 17 & 23) or Bona, at the foot of Wawel (ul. Kanonicza 11). Nick Hodge Language Trips off the Tongue

Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? Grażyna Zawada Let’s find out… Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons, which should prove useful when learning this Confused by Polish gram- beautiful language, as prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher. Q: How do you address some- mar? Send your query one politely in a letter or an Pani Magdo, Szanowny Panie Pi- sonal banking advisor or an in- offends the person, especially to editor@krakowpost. e-mail in Polish? otrze. Note: the form of pani surance agent. Another possible if it is a subordinate colleague, com, and our Polish Magdo/panie Piotrze is allowed form is Drogi/Droga, instead e.g. when a male director ad- linguist may answer your A: To address a person in a only when we have got to know of “Szanowny,” yet it requires dresses a female secretary (it question in the next semi-informal way we put the person a little, for example even a higher degree of famil- sounds as if you treat her as a edition of “Trips off the “Szanowna Pani” and then add when we write to a colleague, iarity and mutual respect. How- waitress instead of a personal the person’s first name in the or a person we cooperate with ever, you must never use a di- assistant). Tongue!” vocative case, e.g. Szanowna in some way, e.g. if it’s our per- minutive form of the name as it Next month: informal addresses 18 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn MusicCulture Culture

Tricky Moments Primal Rhythms, Power Chords and the Ace of Spades - Tricky Live at Klub Studio 23.11.2008

In late November, overnight, horizon- reggae superstar Horace Andy, The Future- “Makes Me Wanna Die,” Francesca smoothly tally falling blizzards gave us an idiosyncrat- heads, New Yorkers Hercules and Love Af- guides her voice through the ocean of sound ic rendering of “In the Bleak Midwinter,” and fair, and Ladytron. But something tonight was and into our minds. the only relief came in the form of Tricky, all amiss, the vibes weren’t flowing, and so 30 the way from sunny Bristol. minutes into a lacklustre set (despite old At times, Tricky can sound like he’s genuinely faves like “Pumpkin” and “Black Steel”) he suffering. When he screams for minutes on end What to make of Tricky? If you don’t know said “goodnight.” “She left....now she’s ga-a-w-n...” (“Joseph”) him, he’s an inconsistently brilliant, angular his anguish is believable, and physical. At the looking musician who has collaborated with prison song bal- Or so it seemed. For by the time I’d figured same time, considering the way he moves on Björk, Neneh Cherry, Alison Goldfrapp, P.J. lads or, in covering what else I could have done with my 110 zloty, stage, it is somehow a classic rock and roll per- Harvey, Terry Hall (The Specials), Cypress Hill, “Black Steel,” giv- he had whammed his way back on stage, su- formance: shirtless, an arching back, sinuous Red Hot Chili Peppers etc. A major figure in ing us a kind of neo percharged his act and set it on fire. I no lon- body, hugging the mike. And a couple of times a tweaked, transposed, sampladelic evolution hip-hop punk. ger waited for the slow numbers – the numbed he ditched the croaky whisper and possessed, in music that’s been dubbed by journos “the beats and ultramodern, velvet vocals of toneless howl for a singing voice reminiscent Bristol Sound” or trip-hop. Recently, he’s been “Pumpkin;” instead I wanted the aggression, of bluesman Screaming Jay Hawkins. touring Europe with the energy to die for. The consensus after the A brief overview for the uninitiated: a mul- new album Knowles gig was that the fake farewells were stunts to The last few songs in a second encore were ticultural city (Bristol), not far from Shirley West Boy, a star- grab our attention. Sure enough, they worked, even more highly fuelled and got the crowd Bassey’s birthplace in Cardiff, Wales (also a tling return to form, for from then on Tricky had us hooked. throwing their arms into the air, inching us haunt of seafaring Jamaican pirates [um..this and now, in a snow- towards that abstract, surreal, timeless place might not be true]), spawns punk-funk in the swept Krakow, we The new songs like “Joseph” and the grimey that borders on possession. chaotic, improvised form of the iconoclastic have Tricky punking pounding beat of “Veronika” are perfectly Pop Group, circa 1979. They in turn spawn and skanking it up for suited to live performance, with their edgy Never one to be conventional, Tricky’s last other groups and we have a fecund, soggy Polska. He brought his rhythms and gritty guitar licks, complement- choice of song was rather shocking in that it mattress of a scene with Massive Attack, Smith fractured soul-mu- ed by Tricky leaping around the stage like had me humming a Motorhead song on my way and Mighty, Rig Rig and Panic, Sharon Nelson, sic to Klub Studio, a deranged shaman, scream-chanting with home - but “Ace of Spades” is, after all, such Nellee Hooper/ Björk collaboration (Debut), which has lately echo fully on: “Breathe, breathe...eathe... a catchy, timeless tune. The spectral Frances- Pigbag and Portishead all taking part. Then hosted some of eathe.” With another song he retreats to the ca made it her own in a lively, throaty, bluesy Tricky subdivided from Massive Attack and the more inter- back, hunched by the keyboard player - pos- voice - I closed my eyes and briefly caught a went solo, or rather collaborative, since he esting musi- sibly puffing on weed - allowing co-vocalist glimpse of her gleaming, silver Harley David- is a self-confessed bad singer. Nevertheless, cal events in Francesca to mobilise her ghostly, statu- son motorbike as she sped away on vocal- despite its obvious predecessors, Tricky’s 1995 town, includ- esque presence and take up the reins. wheels-of-steel, through icy basslines and album Maxinquaye was a definite phenom- ing Jamai- On slower, hypnotic songs like the snowy power guitar. Tricky done good. enon, a new sound – funk, reggae, and hip- c a n classic “Overcome” (Tricky’s take on hop slowed down and blunted into a sensuous Massive Attack’s “Karmacoma”) or Stuart Wilson

SONIC RELEASE

Astigmatic Inspired by Chopin

In October this year Deutsche Grammophon released a much-acclaimed album for the electronic crowd, Recomposed, with Carl Craig and Mortiz von Oswald (of Basic Channel) reworking Ravel and Mussorgsky. Following in these footsteps is Astigmat- ic Inspired by Chopin, released November 24th by Warner Music Polska in association with the Astigmatic Festival in Warsaw. Inspired by Chopin is a compilation album bringing together a group of international electronic artists to create a varied and ultimately more danceable approach to classical music compared to Recomposed’s cerebral minimalism. The artists on Inspired by Chopin have a variety of approaches to the great Polish composer’s repertoire, from sampling and looping to the unique approach of Krakow DJ Mr. Krime, whose piece with vocalist Aga Zaryan includes a reading of Chopin’s letters in Polish, French, and English. Other Polish artists on the compilation include Lady Aarp and Maximilian Skiba alongside an impressive collection of international artists such as notable house DJ Daniel Wang, Ed Banger Records artist Krazy Bald- head, well-known electro producer Morgan Geist, and Jazzanova member Kosma. The general funky disco sound of many of the tracks makes Inspired by Chopin a refreshing and accessible way to enjoy the works of this great composer, even if you’re not aware of them. If only for this reason, giving this album as a gift this holiday season might be a genius move. You’ll have any ignorant youngster hooked on Chopin and they won’t even know it! Dana Dramowicz www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 19 Extra Post

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Centrum Cafe Sukiennice Nic Nowego Gżegżółka School of Polish Celebrates First Anniversary “Sokrates” Rynek Główny 1/3 ul. Krzyża 15 Zblizenia Orbis Francuski pl. Nowy 8 ul. Pijarska 13 The Gżegżółka-Cracow School of Polish, Speech & Language Therapy was founded in October 2007. Jagiellonian University: Cafe Zakatek Nikita Bar ul. Grodzka 2 ul. Sławkowska 26 Hotels, Hostels & Radisson SAS Last month it celebrated its first anniversary. Why did they choose such a difficult word as gżegżółka 1. Campus Guest Rooms ul. Straszewskiego 17 2. Administration Coffeina Internet Nowa Prowincja as a name of a school for foreigners? Gżegżółka is the name of a bird, the cuckoo, but more impor- Building Cafe ul. Bracka 3 Abella Guest Rooms Sheraton Hotel tantly, it is a well-known Polish tongue twister. The school guarantees that their students will be able 3. Dom Gościnny Rynek Główny 23/3 ul. Długa 48 ul. Powiśle 7 “Przegorzaly” Nowy Kuzyn to say “gżegżółka” after the first lesson. 4. Institute of Camera Cafe Mały Rynek 4 Affinity Flats Tango House B&B European Studies ul. Wiślna 5 ul. Karmelicka 7 ul. Szpitalna 4 5. Students Hostel Paparazzi Bar Polish language lessons in the school are grounded in an innovative method, formulated by Mrs. Casa della Pizza ul. Mikołajska Andel’s Hotel Tournet Guest Rooms Tischner European Mały Rynek 2 ul. Pawia 3 ul. Miodowa 7 Małgorzata Świstowska, a linguist, speech and language therapist and postgraduate of the Pedagogi- University Piano Rouge ul. Westerplatte 11 Cherubino Rynek Główny 46 Angel House Trzy Kafki cal University of Cracow. ul. św. Tomasza 15 ul. Blich 6 al. Słowackiego 29 AGH Pod Aniolami Technical University CK Browar Pub ul. Grodzka 35 Apple Pie Apartments Trzy Kafki Premium The Innovative Method of Effective Polish Language Education is based on polysensory - interactive al. Mickiewicza 30 ul. Podwale 6/7 ul. Wielopole 18 ul. Dolnych Młynów 9 Pod Sloncem techniques which are used for developing correct pronounciation. This is the starting point for every University of Club Clu Rynek Główny 43 ARS Hostel Zodiakus Hostel language skill: listening, speaking, reading and writing. Correct pronunciation is very important, Economics ul. Szeroka 10 ul. Koletek 7 ul. Augustiańska 4 ul. Rakowiecka 27 Property Krakow especially when it comes to the Polish language, which is one of the seven most difficult languages in Club Pod Jaszczurami ul. Cybulskiego 2 Atlantis Hostel Tutti Frutti Hostel Rynek Główny 8 ul. Dietla 58 ul. Floriańska 29 the world. Besides being an author of the innovative method, Mrs. Świstowska formulated a program Consulates Prowincja for quick and effective Polish language learning, including multimedia programs and personally de- Corleone ul. Bracka 3/5 Blue Bells Apartments Cultural Centres American ul. Poselska 19 ul. Starowiślna 22 vised educational materials making the process of learning much faster. Consulate Punkt Bunkier Sztuki ul. Stolarska 9 Cul-de-Sac ul. Sławkowska 12 Campanile Pl. Szczepański 3 ul. Na Grodku 4 ul. św. Tomasza 34 Gżegżółka is a recipient of the CITTRU (Centre for Innovations Technology Transfer and University Austrian Consulate Re Kijow Centre ul. Krupnicza 42 Cyrano de Bergerac ul. Krzyża 4 City Hostel ul. Krasińskiego 34 Development) award. The mission of CITTRU is to promote knowledge, support innovations and ul. Slawkowska 26 ul. Krzyża 21 German Consulate Red Rubin Kino Pod Baranami co-operate with businesses. It is an institution at the Jagiellonian University and its main task is to ul. Stolarska 7 Czekolada ul. Grodzka 25 Deco Hostel Rynek Główny 27 ul. Bracka 4 ul. Mazowiecka 3a introduce a more open attitude of the school towards entrepreneurship. Experts from CITTRU who Hon. British Restauracja Hawelka Princes Czartoryski evaluated 90 various projects chose Gżegżółka, based on The Innovative Method of Effective Polish Consulate Del Papa Ristorante Rynek Główny 34 Dizzy Daisy Hostels Museum ul. św. Anny ul. św. Tomasza 6 ul. Pędzichów 9 ul. Pijarska 8 Language Education. Academics and economists connected with UJ trusted the school and have granted EU financial assistance for the school’s development.

> high life Krakow Chronicles by James R. Billmore /CL 2 CkrakowityPOSTPOST lifeCracow-life.com > reviews Head out, Drop In, Fork Out, Get Served /CL 3, 5

> posted Concerts, exhibitions & parties /CL 7, 8, 9, 10

OPERA KRAKOWSKA KRAKOW’S OPERA HOUSE OPENS: CL6 photograph / J. Wrzesiński CL2 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com

highLifestyle &life Dining

my fellow American, would speak first. era never caught the brief, pre-interview A few things you should know about exchange between me and Artur where Krakow Arthur. It’s actually Artur. But when the he told me he was born in Poland, that presenter introduced him as an Ameri- he was back from the states and cur- can, I’m not sure that was clear. What rently working as a translator. Polish to was clear was that he had been in Po- English. English to Polish. Chronicles land two years, I six. So after he spoke, in almost flawless Polish, it was my turn The other thing the camera never caught - the man who had been here thrice as was my apology for my appalling język. long and so a man whose Polish would O Polska! Przykro mi! If only TVP Info City Life’s “Notes From the Underground” has become “Krakow Chronicles,” be thrice as good. The universal forces was interested in the Denver Broncos. of farce held their breathe. I didn’t fail If only the questions had been about and each month a different columnist will give their perspective on the high (and to deliver. “Nie dotykaj mnie tak, bo tak Junot Diaz or Wallace Stevens. If only a low) life in Krakow. This month, the Krakow Post introduces James R. Billmore: nie jest fair. Ani przyjemnie dla mnie i stupider, fatter, stereotypical American mam nadzieja źe tak bedzie. Coś tam. had been my foil! But then again, what’s What can be said about the man? Perhaps the most crucial and identifying life No?” funny about any of that? mark scarring his belt is a notch left there by his old man. “You need to rinse off in river-cold water every shower,” he remembers his father saying. “Good Mark up another job well done for the Would you like to write next month’s column? cosmos’ theatre of the absurd. The cam- E-mail submissions to [email protected] for the blood.” For the then eight-year-old James, scientific verification would not be necessary. He could see his father was right. A habit to this day, dead of winter, dead of night, James swears by it and, in his words, he continues to reap the reward of his father’s years, namely the gift of being present to the here and now. Mr. Billmore hopes to give his five children similar instruction.

I know next to nothing about politics. I would be given an opportunity to air Last Tuesday TVP Info came knocking my views, right after the president, the at my door in search of my nothing. This prime minister and a number of other of course was not due to my high stand- political authorities. ing in any academic or political institu- tion but due to my having carefully and Now, a certain kind of individual in my thoughtfully chosen the special land of situation might have done a bit of prep- my birth. Now, my knowledge of poli- aration. Married to a Polish woman, tics is only marginally eclipsed by my access to the Internet, resources galore, knowledge of Polish, and on Tuesday I could have polished either my Polish afternoon, November 4th, around three or my polemics and arrived sharp and o’clock in the afternoon, I engaged in ready for war. Yet something told me to a cell-phone conversation about poli- ease up and go with the flow. Like those tics, in Polish. Perhaps engaged isn’t the of us who have noticed a greater fluen- word. Perhaps it would be best to think cy when drunk, I believe that a greater of this metaphorically. I got out of bed, fluency comes to those of us who are failed to notice my child’s skateboard, spontaneous of speech. The lazy man’s footed it, wheeled one-legged down argument. So my only preparation was the hall, hit the post, slid down the rail a duży white chocolate mocha fifteen and somersaulted into the living room minutes before go time. where civilised adults were carrying on a serious debate about the recent elec- I imagine that the cosmic comedic forc- tion and, having landed on my bottom, es of the universe have their own designs I coughed. The conversation halted as at work and they never miss a chance to they took me in and, following every- strike. Surely, as they stood by, watch- one’s eyes, noticed that I hadn’t had ing things fall into place, things align- time to put on some trousers. ing themselves in just the right order, they saw the chance for a good chuckle, But opportunity is opportunity, even if a moment’s guffaw. Our fall guy. His it appears to be no more than an invi- baseless confidence. His uninformed tation to embarrassment. And so once views. Broken Polish, no preparation. Agata, the pretty reporter on the other And then, a last minute touch: another by night photo of the month end, had given me the green light, I American would be joining me in our agreed. Though again, green is a poor discussion. He had been scheduled to “High five - very nice!” choice. She gave me an orange light in give his opinions earlier but had failed Atemi, Pat Patent @ Ministerstwo - 07.11.2008 failing to never pull the plug on my to make it on time and so now we would Polish. And so we made a date for ten be going on air together. The cosmos Supplied by mynight.pl, the next morning. We would meet in must have struck on this final complica- the top website for clubbing photos. front of the American Consulate and tion in a moment of inspiration. Arthur, www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 CL3 DROP IN GET SERVED

For December’s Get Served, Krakow Post’s “Bar Person of the Month” jury set themselves the unenvi- able task of finding some top-notch service in Kazimierz, an area known more for serving up the wrong kind of storm when it comes to customer service. After many hours of searching, our team were begin- ning to lose hope until not one, but two shining examples of first class service were discovered. The sister duo of Ania and Magda Nowaczewska from Apartment 14 on ul. Boźega Ciała blew our judges away with their attentive service, which always comes with a complimentary smile. With Ania taking the orders and Magda mixing the drinks at this relative newcomer, we’re hoping that they’ll prompt the rest of Kazimierz to raise their standards. Michał Szatkowski went along to congratulate the girls with the obligatory bottle of bubbly and the sort of questions you’re all dying to know the answers to... Q: What do you do when you’re not working? Ania: I’m currently studying Japanese culture and language. I also love going to parties whenever I have the chance! Kakadu Magda: I’m preparing for my medicine entry exams next year, and also enjoy going to parties. Al- though, now that winter is here, I’m hoping to go snowboarding as much as possible. ul. Wielopole 11, tel. 0694 461 403 Q: What is your dream job? Ania: I’d like to be a tour guide in Japan as I’m really interested in the culture and language there. I’m Despite what Google may tell you, newly opened bar Kakadu is not a national park in Australia hoping to go there to visit as soon as possible. nor a doorbell with 50 amazing chimes in one (including yodelling and horse chimes). So even Magda: For now I want to mix the best drinks in Poland, but in the future I’d like to be a dentist like though Google is obviously the unquestionable source of all wisdom in the universe, it took a my mother. merciful Pole to enlighten me to the fact that Kakadu is in fact the Polish word for cockatoo - the parrot-like bird with the raging mohawk. Intrigued, I grabbed some friends and headed Q: Where would you say the nicest clients come from? down to Wielopole to give this brand new club a try. Opening the door, we were greeted with Ania: I’ve had some clients from places like Egypt and Turkey and they have always been really nice, a tragically empty but really quite beautifully decorated room. While thankfully not an actual but you don’t get many of them unfortunately. aviary, the interior is elegant and exotic (like a cockatoo some might observe) with a modern Magda: I’d say friendly and handsome half-Polish, half-Irish guys like you Michał! But you don’t get mishmash of cabana chic and Asian influences throughout the three large rooms. Simply by be- many of them either! ing at ground level, Kakadu already has a much airier and fresher feel than most Krakow bars and the laid-back house music adds to the relaxed atmosphere. Just add a few pieces of local Q: Kazimierz has been growing in popularity in recent years. What makes it better than places like art or photography and you’d have a more sophisticated Pauza. So while the club was literally the Old Town? empty and the staff obviously taken back by the number of customers we had just brought Ania: It’s still not as crowded with tourists as the Old Town and it has a more relaxed atmosphere through the door, I would consider it very excusable. Kakadu must have opened just a little which isn’t too pretentious. while ago as there was still a faint smell of paint, and we did after all visit it on a Tuesday. Magda: It’s obvious really, you can get the best service and cocktails in town right here at Apartment 14! Another plus was the impressive looking menu contributing to the bizarre trend in Krakow of Q: If you were a cocktail, what would you be, and why? bars serving much higher quality food than actual restaurants. Just look at Nic Nowego or Le Ania: I’d be a drink we have here called “Tropical Temptation” because it reminds me of my last holi- Scandale. Sitting back and enjoying my Carlsberg (7 złoty and the only beer on tap), I couldn’t day, and I can’t wait for my next one! help but feel a strong sense of potential here. I’m sure just a few well organised parties or DJ Magda: I’d be a Cosmopolitan because it’s a popular feminine drink with lots of character and charm, nights will easily get the ball rolling at Kakadu and create a great new spot to lounge the night just like me! away. Dana Dramowicz Q: So what do you recommend we try at Apartment 14? Ania: You should try the “Blackberry Jack.” It helps you think of summer when it’s cold and miser- able. DROP IN Magda: The “Apartment Martini” is excellent as it has the best blackberry liquor and it’s unisex! Q: What is it like working with your sister? Ania: It’s great because we get on so well and she can read my mind which often saves us a lot of time! Cztery Pokoje Magda: I love it because I get to work with my best friend. I can’t think of anyone else I’d rather work with! ul. Gołębia 6, tel. 012 421 10 14 Q: Lastly, what are you two up to after work? Both: You tell us! With the Old Town planned in an almost exclusively grid pattern, it’s curious that the only streets with even a slight curve are also considered the most beautiful - Bracka, Kanon- icza, and Gołębia. Is it the mystery of having something unknown around the corner? Or perhaps it’s the fact that for once, even locals are forced to admire Krakow’s gorgeous historic kamienice (townhouses). On one of these last refuges of the elusive “magiczny Kraków” stands Cztery Pokoje (meaning Four Rooms, which it indeed has), a new addi- tion to Gołębia Street. Luckily, the questionable Boom Bar Rush is in a cellar, allowing the rest of us to get on with being moody musicians or over-educated students in the cafes at ground level. Admittedly the decor in Cztery Pokoje is a pretty shameless rip-off of Krakow fail-safe Spokój, with its orange walls, retro wallpaper and jumble of second hand furniture. Posters of Martini ads (one also, strangely enough, acting as a lampshade) and crookedly framed vistas round off the quirky atmosphere. Let’s also not forget the tempting-looking fireplace, which, one can only hope, will warm the fingers and toes of stressed out students this winter. A bonus, though seemingly not yet functional, is a ru- moured 6 mb/s WIFI connection allowing blazing speeds which may run the risk of drawing pirates from as far as Stary Port. A dubious soundtrack may be the only major drawback, though I suppose that’s fairly subjective considering my partner happily hummed through the entire Invisible Touch album by Genesis. Ania and Magda Nowaczewska, December’s bar people of the month Dana Dramowicz

www.restauracja-amadeus.pl CL4 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 ADVERTISEMENTS www.krakowpost.com

restaurant

delicious hungarian cuisine

ul. Grodzka 37, Kraków tel./fax: (0) 12 422 04 69 www.balaton.krakow.pl

Restaurant with unique temperament and Cracow atmosphere ! Famous restaurant on the “King’s Road” from Wawel Castle to Main Square. You can eat your dinner in one of the antique carriages… Traditional old polish cuisine using old recipes and charred beech wood grill. Dishes prepared over a beech wood grill using old polish and Italian recipes. (Restauracja z atmosferą średniowiecznego Krakowa, (To restauracja z włoskim temperamentem i krakowską atmosferą! na „Drodze Królewskiej” z Wawelu do Rynku Głównego. Można tu zjeść kolację w jednej z karet, wśród uskrzydlonej łodzi Zapraszamy w kulinarną „podróż” do staropolskich smaków. rybackiej i góralskich sań. Ogródek z fontanną na dziedzińcu.) Kuchnia polska, włoskie pasty…i tiramisu!) Courtyard garden and medieval atmosphere. “Cherubino” ul.św.Tomasza 15, Krakow, tel. 012/4294007, ul.Grodzka 35, Kraków, tel. 012/4213999, tel./fax. 012/4294147 tel./fax. 012/4302113 www.cherubino.pl www.podaniolami.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 CL5

the entire city. Argentina is the world’s leader in beef consumption, with on average 65 kilo consumed FORK OUT per annum per head. And it is home to a herd of 50 million heads. It is among the world’s main cattle exporters, third only to Brazil and Australia. It is so thanks to the favourable climate and the pampas (the Argentinean counterpart of the steppe or prairie, only more fertile), where the oxen can graze and be slaughtered and flayed all year long.

My desire for Argentine cattle was finally reinforced by a visit to an oriental eatery, where instead of beef I was served something whose taste resembled a car mat from a 19-year-old Peugeot estate.

To finally and bloodily satisfy my Argentine lusts I went to Pimiento, which opened a year ago on ul. Józefa just by Buena Vista (where they serve delicious mojitos) and Pepe Rosso restaurant (where they serve delicious lasagna). I naturally selected the most expensive item on the menu, namely the Pimiento parillada - a composition of grilled meats including sirloin, rib eye, entrecôte and hip steak. These I ul. Józefa 26, tel. 12 421 2502 furnished with baked potatoes with bacon in a creamy yoghurt sauce. My irrevocable decision to assault Argentine beef was made after visiting Macro Cash & Carry. For those who have never been there, Macro is a fantastic place not because it is cheap (which it in fact is The steaks were utterly perfect! An inch thick, they were fried just as I required (semi-rare) and were not), but because gathered there in a huge space is Krakow’s largest and freshest collection of seafood delicately gamey and wonderfully aromatic. They were the best steaks I have ever had in this over- and veggies. Plus, the recently added alcohol section offers practically everything. fried city. As juicy as fruits, sweet-smelling, and melting between the tongue and the palate.

It is the meat division, however, that is the best. Ordinary shops mean cabinets and freezers, from Although the dish was served without any exceptional finery (some salad and a few scattered halves which you transfer what you find interesting into your basket. Not so in Macro. There you walk into of cherry tomatoes), I was so bewitched by the delicacy of Argentine beef and the juiciness of the hip a gigantic freezer covering at least 100 square metres. There are even coats to be borrowed so that that, having left Pimiento, I dreamt only about one thing: to meet vegetarians and begin the conver- clients do not catch colds - quite a likely illness to contract, as contemplation can drag out like a good sion. old Russian winter. I had: Parillada with potato, yoghurt, and bacon: 126 zł In this veritable zoo of game, with flying chevrons of frozen poultry, and cattle butchered by the pasture, I found four types of Argentine beef. And they were the four most expensive beef sirloins in Tadeusz Płatek, translated by Piotr Kraśnowolski HEAD OUT

One of Krakow’s most impressive and simultaneously expensive shops is Likus Concept Store. Catch up on the latest fashion must-haves and keep your head warm in style this winter with a DSquared² Canada-inspired toque (4). Meanwhile, Delikatesy 13 has an amazing line-up of luxurious food, the majority from Italy, including a both disturbing yet delicious-looking hanging line-up of massive Parma hams. The amount of fat-streaked cured meats available is truly a thing of beauty.

You may have to spend the holidays with your family, but the rest of the year, let’s face it, you’ll be at home watching Gossip Girl (that’s not just me is it?). Give your flat some respect and spruce it up with a piece of retro furniture from Miejsce, where vintage furniture has been restored to its original funky glory, such as a massive Siemens clock hung by a white chain (2). Anything this huge and retro will give any old living space a fresh face.

Now that you’ve found a replacement for Christmas Market grilled oscypek and mass-produced “hand- made” decorations for your home, you may wonder where to go from here. Well, hand-make some- thing yourself of course! Olaboga is a tiny shop specialising in truly handmade jewellery and acces- sories and has a small but wisely chosen selection of beads (1). You can also pick up some tools for jewellery-making and plenty of great ideas from the quirky selection of one-of-a-kind goods on sale.

Christmas time is also the biggest party season of the year, so now’s the time to buy yourself some- thing snazzy. Maruna is a shop specialising in vintage, handmade, and recycled clothing and accesso- ries. A chic set of Polish-inspired earrings will beat anything you’d find at the market (5). Admittedly, the above only applies if you are a girl. For male readers: you’ll find Saturn at the northern entrance of Galeria Krakowska.

By now the denial has likely worn off and you’ve realized you really do have to go visit your in-laws tomorrow and may have to endure the massively embarrassing opłatek sharing tradition. Head straight to Singer for a glass of aromatic hot Krupnik next to the roaring fire. Very few things in the world smell photos by Mateusz Majewski as wonderful as this perfect combination of honey vodka and clove-studded lemon (3). Just don’t blame me in the morning. Holiday Shopping (without stepping foot in the market) 1 - Olaboga, Sebastiana 16. Beads 0.30 - 1.50 złoty each. 2 - Miejsce, Zagadłowicza 2. Retro Siemens clock 500 zł. Family traditions, Christmas Market knick-knacks and peace and love are all well and good, but some- 3 - Singer, Estery 20. Hot Krupnik 6.50 zł. times a good dose of cynicism combined with heavy materialism is in order during this frequently 4 - Likus Concept Store, Rynek Główny 13. DSquared² toque 495 zł. stressful time of the year. Once you’ve had your fill of mulled wine, glass ornaments, and hopeful- 5 - Maruna, Miodowa 2. Earrings 22 złoty. sounding carols it might just be time to create your own magic this holiday season. Whether you’re buying for a loved one, or just spoiling yourself, sometimes there’s no better way to get into the holiday spirit than by shedding a few pounds from your pockets. Dana Dramowicz

“…that honor goes to Cafe Camelot, which might just be my favorite cafe in the world (..go for apple pie)” David Streitfeld “The Washington Post Travel” Summer restaurant-boat located in the bend of the Vistula River at the foot of the Wawel Castle. Coffee house – gallery with the most romantic summer garden in Cracow. Sitting on its upper deck, you will recall long-forgotten charms of life The magical atmosphere of that place and original interiors dating back on the Vistula River. to the XIII century. (Galeria – kawiarnia z wyjątkowym ogródkiem w Zaułku Niewiernego Tomasza. (Letnia restauracja na statku na Wiśle u stóp Wawelu. Jest miejscem spotkań niezwykłych ludzi, koncertów, kabaretów i recitali. Siedząc na górnym pokładzie odnajdą Państwo dawno zapomniane uroki życia W galerii na piętrze wydarzenia artystyczne i wystawy fotograficzne. nad Wisłą.) W piątki kabaret „Loch Camelot”)

Galar “Pod Aniołami” Zakole Wisły, On Fridays Loch Camelot Cabaret. Bulwary Wiślana vis a vis Hotelu Sheraton, Cafe Camelot” ul. św.Tomasza 17, Kraków, tel. 0691 44 04 03 tel.012/4210123 CL6 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com

spotlightOpera Krakowska

photographs / J. Wrzesiński left - The Haunted Manor by Stanisław Moniuszko; top right - exterior of the new building; bottom right - the interior of the opera house

n Saturday 13th December, the opera house and construction began four scandal. The plot delves into power politics on New Year’s Eve. The latter looks set to city will be pulling out all the years ago. within the Catholic Church, with a spicy be one of the hottest tickets in town on stops for the grand opening of the brew of corrupt cardinals, hysterical nuns the 31st. Three of Poland’s most celebrated Krakow Opera House. Not since Distinguished guests from Poland and abroad and the dastardly Beelzebub himself. soloists will be performing a medley of theO launch of the Slowacki Theatre in 1893 will be descending on Krakow for the open- classics, taking in Verdi, Strauss, Gounod has such a vital new feather been added to ing night this December. The honour of Competition for seats is liable to be fierce and perennial Polish favourite Stanisław the city’s performing arts cap. launching the musical programme goes to in the inaugural month, but there’s still Moniuszko. pioneering Polish composer Krzysztof Pen- a chance to snap up tickets. The official Located a little beyond the Old Town, the derecki. He’ll be getting the show on the premiere of The Devils of Loudun will be on bold new building has brought a burst of life road with a brand new production of The Sunday, 14th December, and seats can be OPERA KRAKOWSKA: ul. Lubicz 48, to an area that’s been off most visitors’ ra- Devils of Loudun. Originally premiered in reserved by ringing the ticket office at (12) www.opera.krakow.pl dars for years. Cracovian architect Romuald 1969, the opera is based on Aldous Huxley’s 296 6260. One more performance is planned Loegler won the competition to design the account of a notorious seventeenth century for Monday 15th, followed by a gala concert www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 CL7

postedThe Month in Events provided by Cracow-life.com

Szopki - Nativity Scenes Contest SPECIAL EVENTS SZOPKI - NATIVITY SCENES CONTEST Early December is a frantic time for a CHRISTMAS MARKET particular coterie of Cracovians, as the first Given the topsy turvy weather of late, we Thursday of the month is the deadline for wouldn’t lay down a wad of dollars on there the time-honoured szopki competition. A being a White Christmas. That said, the full-sized szopka (pr. shop-ka), can take Alfred Kubin, Black Panther, 1906 at the International Cultural Centre Market will be going ahead even if we’re over a hundred hours to complete, hence wearing Hawaiian shirts and sipping cocktails the rather zombie-like expressions of some drinking kicks off at midday, and foreign- and prints will bolster the batch of paintings. from coconut shells. The yuletide emporium of the creators, who must bring the fruits of ers should take note of the crazy custom of when - Until 31st December will run throughout December, and even if their labour to the Mickiewicz statue at the smashing champagne bottles to smithereens where - National Museum, ul. 3 Maja 1 you don’t find any decent prezzies, there crack of dawn. The curious nativity scenes, - particularly after the clock has struck mid- are plenty of epicurean pleasures, includ- which resemble the fantastical castles that night (a suit of medieval armour might come ZOFIA STRYJEŃSKA (1891-1976) ing knockout mulled wine (grzaniec), and you might find in a Russian fairy tale, are in handy). Many restaurants and nightclubs Back in 1925, she took Paris’s International sausages galore. finished these days with coloured foil. At will be holding special New Year bashes. For Exhibition by storm. Now, eighty years on, when - Until 31st December midday, they’ll be whisked away to the His- the top restaurants it’s worth booking well in “the princess of Polish art” is getting her where - Main Market Square torical Museum for expert judgment, where advance to avoid disappointment. first full retrospective, after being shunned they’ll come on display for the duration of when - 31st December for decades by the Communist regime. 32ND INTERNATIONAL JAZZ JUNIORS the month. where - Various Dismissed by some sophisticates as a second- CONTEST when - 4th December rate graphic designer, Stryjeńska was Krakow has a proud jazz pedigree, and this where - Main Market Square EXHIBITIONS nevertheless hugely influential on fellow pre- lively event sees bright young jazz things let rip at various clubs around town. All entrants WIGILIA - CHRISTMAS EVE SZOPKI NATIVITY SCENES must be under 25 years, and the grand prize The 24th is the big day in Poland’s yuletide The annual szopki contest is now in its 66th includes a session in a top recording studio. calendar, the focus being an epic twelve year, and after the open-air display on Thurs- As always, the cult Klub Rotunda will be course dinner. Traditionally, dinner starts day 4th (see Special Events), the cribs will hosting each round of the competition, plus when the first star pops up in the sky. This be carried aloft to the Historical Museum. concerts by seasoned jazz maestros. Klub heralds the breaking of opłatek - blessed As of Monday 8th, the winning wonders will Żaczek and Drukarnia Podgórze will wafer - which is accompanied by prayers for be revealed. Love them or loathe them, also be getting in on the action. See the of- absent friends and family (often a deeply these garish curios are remarkable for their ficial site for more info. emotional moment). No meat is served, delicacy of design. when - 3rd until 7th December although fish is a staple - traditionally carp. when - 8th December until 15th February where - Rotunda Club, ul. Oleandry 1 After the feast is over, those still capable of where - Krzysztofory Palace, Rynek Główny 35 movement head to church for the Pasterka (Midnight Mass). ADAM MARCZYŃSKI - BETWEEN when - 24th December METAPHOR & CERTAINTY where - Across Poland Marczyński, a key mover in Tadeusz Kantor’s circle, was a major artistic figure SYLWESTER - NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTY here in Krakow after the war. This show The most raucous night of the year sees tens homes in on his abstract adventures between of thousands of punters descend on Krakow’s 1954 and 1963, a time when he began to get Old Town for some final countdown fun. The interested in collage. A selection of sketches Zofia Stryjeńska, National Museum CL8 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 ADVERTISEMENTS www.krakowpost.com

JOLANTA CZERNECKA ROBERT DYRCZ SEBASTIAN GOMU KA ANDRZEJ GÓRNISIEWICZ JACEK GRUSZECKI ADAM KNOPEK JADWIGA LEWANDOWSKA KONCEWICZ. MIROS AW KONCEWICZ TOMASZ KULKA MACIEJ P CAK KATARZYNA ZAWIERUCHA MAREK ZAWIERUCHA

STRADOMSKA time 29.11.2008 18:00 START date location 16

Dom pod Lasem Glichów com Agro-tourist Guesthouse in the Glichow Forest krakow-tours. “a treat for adults as well as children” [email protected] +48 12+48 4214865 698865881 Glichow 24, tel: +48 (0) 506 555 090 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 CL9

Tomasz Tatarczyk, The Waters Rippled, Galeria Zderzak Poster for Mickiewicz’s Ballads and Romances, Groteska Children’s Theatre war artists. Her exuberant blend of Art Deco pean stars all under one roof. Represent- everything from papal slippers to princely and The Ugly Duckling are amongst the forms and folk motifs came to typify the era. ing the Czechs we have Jiri David, Jiri paintings. picks from Groteska’s Christmas repertoire. This wide-ranging show looks at all facets Kovanda, Marek Meduna and enfant when - Until 8th March Famed across Poland for their puppeteering of the artist’s career, from toy and poster terrible Kristof Kintera. They’ll be joined where - Krzysztofory Palace, Rynek Główny 35 panache, the theatre offers first class family design to book illustration. by Slovak Denisa Lehocká, and a pair entertainment without language barriers. when - Until 4th January of Poles, Jarosław Modzelewski and FIRST STEP... Meanwhile, for adults with a penchant for where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 Grzegorz Sztwiertnia. Expect everything The National Museum may boast a belter of Poland, there’s a new production of Mickie- from post-modern painting to off-the-wall a building and a first class stash of Polish art, wicz’s Ballads and Romances. THE WATERS RIPPLED installations. but it’s noticeably lacking in the contempo- when - Throughout December Tomasz Tatarczyk’s paintings have been when - Until 31st January rary department. However, collector Rafael where - Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 snapped up by collectors everywhere from where - Dominik Art Projects, ul. Mikołajska 5/2 Jablonka has shimmied in and provided - as New York to Stockholm. You can check out the full title reads - a “First Step Towards a HARLEM GOSPEL CHOIR some of his recent canvases at Galeria Zder- IN OUR GREAT-GRANDFATHER’S Collection of Western Contemporary Art.” Back by popular demand, America’s finest zak until mid January. WARDROBE Loaning a colossal catch that counts cuts are preparing to administer their much-loved when - Until 17th January The charm of this museum is that it has the from Andy Warhol, David LaChapelle, “dose of the Holy Ghost.” Offering a more where - Galeria Zderzak, ul. Floriańska 3 aura of an authentic Cracovian mansion - of Mike Kelley, Nobuyoshi Araki and many modern take on your standard carolling esca- the kind that was swept away when the Red more, Jablonka has provided a feast for fans pades, the angels of Harlem will be rocking ALFRED KUBIN - IN THE SHADOWS OF Revolution was forced on Poland. If you’re of the arts. Krakow as only they know how. THE IMAGINATION lucky you’ll even spot the resident cat, who when - Throughout December when - 21st December Dubbed “the Austrian Goya,” Alfred Kubin is allowed to nod off nonchalantly on the where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 where - Auditorium Maximum, ul. Krupnicza 35 dealt in decidedly dark, sometimes porno- antique beds and armchairs. This month graphic visions. Born in 1877, his talent for there’s an additional attraction in the form COLLAPSE MOSCOW CITY BALLET meddling in the macabre was not missed of an exhibition about togs from times gone Check out Stefan Burger’s latest work at this Russia’s finest weave a wintry spell with by publishers, who found him the perfect by. “In Our Great-Grandfather’s Wardrobe” hip new gallery. Tchaikovsky’s much-loved classic, Swan illustrator for cheery chaps such as Dos- looks at dapper accessories from the fin-de- when - opening 12th December, 6pm Lake. The toe-twirling action will be taking toevsky, Edgar Allen Poe and E.T.A. siecle era. where - Galeria F.A.I.T., ul. Karmelicka 28 place at the Auditorium Maximum of the Hoffman. Now that there are no leaves when - Until 1st February Jagiellonian University. Starts 8 pm. left on the trees and the winter gloom is where - Hipolit Burgher House, Plac Mariacki 3 OPERA, THEATRE when - 23rd December upon us, it seems the perfect time to revel where - Auditorium Maximum, ul. Krupnicza 35 in Kubin’s gothic world. For this, the ICC has JEWISH THEATRE POSTERS FROM & DANCE laid on a fantastic show with over seventy PRE-WAR POLAND FILM weird and wonderful works to savour. The dapper 1930s come back to life at this OPERA KRAKOWSKA when - Until 27th January special show at the Galicia Museum. A hoard See Spotlight on CL6. FILM: 3RD INTERNATIONAL where - International Cultural Centre, of rare theatrical posters has been loaned when - Throughout December PHILOSOPHY FILM FESTIVAL Rynek Główny 25 by the Jewish Historical Institute in War- where - Opera House, ul. Lubicz 48 “The Bunker of Art” seems the perfect saw, providing a fine complement to the place to host a festival with a philosophical ECUADOR - CULTURE ON THE EQUATOR unmissable permanent exhibition, “Traces of GROTESKA CHILDREN’S THEATRE bent. Most of the regulars at the adjoining With its tropical forests, mangrove-riddled Memory.” If you’re new to Krakow and curi- Pinocchio, Cinderella, Puss in Boots cafe seem like directors of earnest esoteric coastlines and snow-smothered mountains, ous about the city’s Jewish legacy, put this Ecuador is a country of many faces. This venue at the top of your list. one-off show comes under the patronage of when - Until 28th February Fernando Flores Macias, the Ecuadorean where - Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 ambassador to Poland and himself a keen collector. All sorts of curios can be enjoyed, THE ROAD TO THE VATICAN from archaeological relics to handcrafted Thirty years ago, an energetic archbishop of folk treasures. The show is being held at Krakow was catapulted to world fame when the Esterka House, the sister branch of the he was elected the first ever Polish Pope. Ethnographic Museum. This exhibition chimes in with that fabled when - Until 31st January moment, but the curator explores the wider where - Ethnographic Museum (Esterka relationship between Krakow and the Vati- Branch), ul. Krakowska 46 can. Back in the 17th century, Krakow was considered “a second Rome”, such was its ...NO PLACES NO FRONTIERS... stature as a place of pilgrimage. “The Road Krakow’s newest gallery is dishing up a box to the Vatican” reveals a hoard of treasures of delights this December. Art aficionados cataloguing several centuries of exchange can catch the works of seven Central Euro- between the two cities, and visitors will find Pre-War Jewish Theatre Posters, Galicia Jewish Museum CL10 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com

CULTURAL PARTNERS

“First Step...”, National Museum in Krakow works. Topping the bill this year we’ve got melodic, sometimes math rock-y tunes are cert to celebrate Hanukkah this December. a retrospective of Chris Marker. This often based around Ford’s bass lines, and Stephen Spielberg was so enraptured by extraordinary Frenchman, born Christian bring to mind bands such as Do Make Say her band that he gave clarinetist Leszek Lic François Bouche-Villeneuve in Ulan Bator, Think or Tristeza. Highly recommended a playing part in Schindler’s List. Catch the fought with the anti-Nazi Resistance and for fans of cognitive rock music. concert at the supreme Galicia Museum, a turned to art after the war. His film La when - 8th December modern venue that’s brimming with bright Jettée was the inspiration for Gilliam’s where - Klub Re, ul. Św. Krzyża 4 ideas. Starts 7 pm sharp. Twelve Monkeys. The annual competi- when - 20th December tion championing recent cuts will be divided DAT POLITICS where - Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 between Kino Parodox (ul. Krowoderska 8) Having wowed the crowds at their first and Scena SCKM (ul. Wietora 15). performance in Poland at the OFF Festival CLUB MUSIC when - 2nd - 7th December this year, DAT Politics return this time where - Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepańska 3a to Krakow for a follow-up gig in support of I LOVE TOKYO their newest album, Mad Kit. Their music is Krakow was once ringed by a chain of forts, LIVE MUSIC a frenetic mash-up of glitchy electronica, and this New Year, DJs and partiers will be toy instruments, and bouncy high-pitched commandeering one of those caverns for OPEN MIC NIGHT AT SZAFE vocals over hyperactive beats. Sure to be an some round-the-clock madness. Set to be The Open Mic Night is a monthly event at entertaining, if not bizarre, gig. the biggest party of the year, “I Love Tokyo” which performers can get on stage and share when - 11th December boasts big-name DJs, state of the art visuals their music. All musicians of all levels and where - Face2Face Club, ul. Paulińska 28 and a host of surprises. Check their website attitudes are welcome. Cafe Szafe (located for more info: www.ilovetokyo.pl. Tickets on one block from Massolit Books) provides a ARTE DEI SUONATORI sale at Baroque bar, ul. Św. Jana 16. Starts 7 cosy stage, full PA system, and good beer, Acclaimed Italian violinist Stefano Mon- pm sharp. every first Sunday of the month. A good time tanari is joining forces with Polish baroque when - 31st December is guaranteed, whether you come to play or outfit Arte dei Sounatori this December. where - Forty Kleparskie, ul. Kamienna 2-4 just to listen. From 7 to 10 pm. Together, they’ll be taking on the grand trio when - 7th December of Geminiani, Locatelli and Leclair. NEW YEAR’S EVE AT MASADA where - Cafe Szafe, ul. Felicjanek 10 Well worth catching. The New Year is a time to start fresh and when - 15th December explore new possibilities - what better UNWED SAILOR where - Philharmonic Hall, way to do so than to explore a hidden gem Unwed Sailor, an instrumental project ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 in Krakow’s nightlife scene, Masada? The from Seattle’s Johnathon Ford of recently-opened club has yet to garner much Roadside Monument, has had numerous IRA & KLEZMERS attention, which is a shame because its vast tours throughout the U.S. and Europe, and Irena Urbańska, the grande dame of space, including a sizeable dance floor and a it’s about time they came to Poland. The Polish Klezmer, will be singing a one-off con- mezzanine with plenty of comfortable seat- ing, its superior acoustics and sound system and general hip but unpretentious interiors make it one of the best clubs in Kazimierz, if not the whole city. Luckily, Masada is attept- ing to break onto the scene with a massive New Year’s Eve party. The event will feature the artistic duo dj Phreneticus & vj Kabzel. Phreneticus will spin the best hits of the 80s, 90s, funk, soul, hip-hop, acid-jazz, house, 2step, d’n’b and whatever else is requested, while Kabzel’s visuals will accompany the sounds and keep the party atmosphere going all night. Tickets are priced at 190 zloty, which includes two drinks or two beers, champaign, starters and a late dinner, and can be purchased at the bar. when - 31st December where - Klub Masada, ul. Skawińska 2 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 CL11

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ASTRO SELTZER SUDOKU

SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) To play: Complete the grid so that every If you’re as organised as you are enthusiastic, then we’re all in for a treat. row, column and every 3 x 3 box contains the digits 1 to 9. There is no guessing or maths Bursting at the seams with any number of ideas, you’re aching to make a involved, just use logic to solve. splash. The only problem is that you’re still attracting hangers-on who are probably full of hot air. Success this month means doing it all on your lone- some. (Under the Christmas tree: a gift certificate for massage or reflexology will make Sagittarians feel loved).

CAPRICORN (Dec 21 - Jan 19) VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) The solution to all your prob- TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) Restlessness has grabbed you, lems requires a major change Famous for your no-non- throwing you off centre and in perception. That, however, sense approach to things, clouding your judgement. is more easily said than done. you’re nonetheless vulner- Here’s the real scoop: your This month, you’ll take a stab able to smooth talkers. This body knows that something is at re-programming your head month, someone tries to sell you on an about to happen. This “molecular intui- and will be impressed by the results. You idea that actually is too good to be true. tion” is about something ultra-positive. have the capacity for complete happiness: Although it goes against your grain, ask The problem is that, hating change, you if you allow old phobias to find their own for advice if anyone attempts to part you associate any deviation from routine as way to the graveyard, you’ll have the time, from your cash. If you’ve been worrying threatening. (Under the Christmas tree: inclination and energy to put your brilliant about your financial future, don’t. Every- organic chocolates are Virgo’s favourite schemes into action. (Under the Christmas thing will be fine. (Under the Christmas guilt-free indulgence). tree: surprisingly sentimental, framed photos tree: home-made anything - especially of loved ones make Capricorns feel secure). food - makes our Taurus pals feel special). LIBRA (Sep 23 - Oct 22) You’re not one to jump ship AQUARIUS (Jan 20 - Feb 18) GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) without an extraordinarily Inspired by people who live With so many heavy de- good cause. So, this month, “out loud,” you need to be mands on your time and when you give a take-it-or- surrounded by high achiev- energy, it’s okay to be a bit leave-it ultimatum, people had best take ers. In fact, you’d rather cranky. In fact, it’s neces- heed - you’re serious! Tired of being a live in a community of fools sary. People rely on you to be the sensible doormat, you’re about to bark and, if need than one run by dreary rule-makers. This voice of reason, while they run about be, bite! Whatever you do will be done month, you make contact with people who wreaking havoc and making a general mess with a clear conscience. (Under the Christ- get your creative juices running. You’ll of things. Your task this month: grab some mas tree: obscure books and off-beat music want to join them in their mad escapades, time for yourself, far from the madding always tickle the typical Libra’s fancy). but may worry about the logistics of it crowd. (Under the Christmas tree: some- all. Don’t worry, go crazy! (Under the thing subtle but expensive that can be SCORPIO (Oct 23 - Nov 21) Christmas tree: biographies of crackpots, thrown around the neck or plopped on the What lies beneath your saints or sinners will excite the Aquarian head delights fashion-conscious Gemini). aggressively self-confident imagination). exterior? Fear of being CANCER (Jun 21 – Jul 22) wrong! Lately, you’ve been PISCES (Feb 19 – March 19) A power struggle is about to experimenting with objectiv- Someone has to do it! The occur and you, of course, ity and it hasn’t been a success. Astoundingly world is falling to pieces will win. You’ve established emotional and, in most cases, intellectually around you, with people something new at work that gifted, you add an extra punch to everything either floundering or bail- is incredibly successful. Unfortunately, a you do. Please don’t analyse yourself into ing out. It’s up to you to morally-challenged colleague is trying to a state of mediocrity. (Under the Christmas take charge and whip everyone into shape. wrestle control away from you. It’s time tree: books or films about evil people who’ve Although you dread being a despot, deep to play hardball! (Under the Christmas been punished are right up Scorpio’s morally down you know that at least you’d be an tree: either an adventure novel or a tome superior alley). enlightened one. (Under the Christmas tree: on management will give the typical Can- booze or tickets for the cinema are the saf- cerian hours of pleasure). est bets for fantasy-driven Pisceans). LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) Krakow Post’s astrology column is for entertain- ment purposes only, and the Post is not respon- ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) You make things happen sible for any consequences incurred as a result Feverishly focused and deter- because, like a dog with of this column. Written by Kerwin McLeister, mined to have your say, diplo- a bone, you never let up. [email protected] macy is not your forte. This This month, you push and month, you take a long, cold pull from all angles until SUDOKU SOLUTIONS look at those around you and decide that you get what you want. A major creative they’ve been trailing on your tailcoats. endeavour promises to attract positive Itching to put the brakes on freeloaders, attention that could result in oodles of you could alienate a few people in the money. (Under the Christmas tree: some- process. Your mantra should be, “The truth thing ridiculously expensive that no one hurts, so get used to it!” (Under the Christ- else has will put the merry back into Leo’s mas tree: A closet dreamer, books about Christmas). cutting-edge physics will make Aries smile). Star-Signs drawn by Dominik Nawrocki CL12 Krakow Post DECEMBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com new year 2008