STEVE HARNELL Catches up with Massive Attack's Robert Del Naja at the Band's Bristol Studios to Get the Lowdown on Their
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4 www.thisisbristol.co.uk Thursday, February 4, 2010 Thursday, February 4, 2010 www.thisisbristol.co.uk 5 Music Food www.crackerjack.co.uk Warm chocolate STEVE HARNELL brownie at Review Hermanos catches up with Keeping Massive Attack’s Back on the Attack Hermanos Robert Del Naja at 55 Queens Road, Clifton, Bristol, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, the BS8 1QQ. Tel: 0117 9294323 States and Canada. South America, Massive Attack’s the band’s Bristol too. We’re even talking about going Grant “Daddy G” t was the soup that studios to get the back to the Middle East and Africa.” Marshall and Robert first caught my eye The new album sees Massive “3D” Del Naja I working with more collaborators when I walked past lowdown on their than ever before. It’s something of a it in the dream team of acclaimed vocalists Hermanos, a café bar on Clifton Triangle. which takes in Damon Albarn, much-anticipated Elbow’s Guy Garvey, former Mazzy The small menu in the window Star frontwoman Hope Sandoval, TV started with the words ‘Moro’s On The Radio’s Tunde Adebimpe, beetroot soup with black cumin’, new album a reference to a dish that appears former Tricky muse Martina at one of London’s best Heligoland Topley-Bird and the ever-present restaurants. reggae veteran Horace Andy. Great offer to And then, a few lines below it, “I’ve been banging on about I spotted ‘Homage to Stephen family making a Gothic soul album for years assive Attack have now but it just hasn’t happened. Markwick –blue cheese and never done things the charity coffers onion marmalade tart’ –atribute M Heligoland isn’t it, so that idea has to Bristol’s best chef. easy way, and after 20 become very elusive,”says D about Something was clearly going baby leaves (£4.95). Served as a the birth of the new record. years together, they’re not “We discarded a whole album’s ith bad service being the on here so I returned the next square, rather than a triangular about to start now. day to investigate. slice from a round tart, it boasted worth of material in 2008 after the norm in some The labyrinthine story behind the W Hermanos has been open for a a blistered, caramelised top and a Meltdown festival and decided that making of their fifth album establishments, it’s warm, wobbly filling that was we needed to start all over again. while and although it has always Heligoland is one of reinvention, false sometimes easy to forget that slightly sweet from the onion “We went to work with Damon been a place to get a decent cup of starts and the reconnection of two marmalade but very tangy from Albarn and then Tim Goldsworthy in restaurants and cafes are all part coffee by day, it is better known founding members. as a lively bar in the evening. the cheese. New York. It was a new start. All the of the hospitality business. Their last full-length studio effort, As far as the food goes, it had The pastry was a tad soft and tracks we took with us were Which is why it’s so refreshing to hear 100th Window, was effectively a solo never realised its full potential soggy –hinting that it had been redeveloped –new rhythms, project for Robert “3D” Del Naja about a Bristol restaurant doing its bit for the and was simply another average reheated in a microwave rather rearranged songs, new vocals community and helping those less fortunate. lunchtime venue serving the than an oven –but it was (with help from co-producer and whatever. ..” Friska, Bristol’s new healthy fast food usual fare. certainly a very decent stab at co-writer Neil Davidge) as Grant There’s a more human and organic restaurant in Victoria Street, has partnered And then at the end of last the Bristol chef ’s celebrated tart. “Daddy G” Marshall took a sabbatical feel to Heligoland –100th Window with Bristol Foundation Housing to help the year, the owners decided to And I’m sure he would be citing the odd creative difference and was quite a tough listening city’s homeless. advertise for a chef to take over flattered that it was even on the a new arrival in the family. experience... Earlier this week, it served up its ‘feel good the kitchen. menu. But the pair reunited for the “I actually think 100th Window is food’to more than 60 people at one of the They ended up getting two for The tart was served with a ensuing world tour and G is now quite warm and light,” D counters. city’s busiest homeless shelters. the price of one in the shape of generous salad of lamb’s lettuce, fully plugged into the Massive set-up “You can take it in different ways. It’s Bristol Foundation Housing aims to help mother and daughter team Liz matchsticks of beetroot, whole once again. one of those records which you put people on their road to recovery using a mix and Sorrel Ferguson. walnuts and a drizzle of balsamic It’s been seven years since the on and it will just take you of secure supervised accommodation and A former nurse, Liz had been dressing. For under a fiver, it was release of 100th Window, but as D somewhere else. It’s funny, we got a support in the form of advice, information running a catering business excellent value. points out, they’ve not exactly been lot of criticism at the time, now loads and mentoring schemes. called Heaven’s Cake for 13 years, to which chefs and restaurants tables or sitting on high stools To finish, a warm chocolate twiddling their thumbs in the of people come up to me and say ‘we Many of the people who benefit from cooking for private functions, they look to for inspiration. and eating from what is brownie (£2) with a cracked, meantime. They’ve mounted two love 100th Window, we think it’s your Bristol Foundation Housing have a history of weddings, and other events. When I called them the next essentially a shelf doesn’t make glossy top and the right balance world tours, released career best album’. alcohol and drug abuse and often suffer from Sorrel returned from Leeds day to organise a photoshoot, for the most comfortable eating between sweet and bitter. retrospective Collected, curated a “When Mezzanine came out I mental health issues. University to work for the Sorrel told me how much she experience and there is room in With a small glass of Errazuriz Meltdown festival as well as D and remember reading The Face As a result, they are often unemployed and Chandos Deli chain and loved Yotam Ottolenghi, Skye front of the bar for ‘proper’tables Carmenere Aconcagua Valley Davidge contributing to numerous magazine where they called it my lack the skills needed to get back into the delicatessens and cafés and they Gyngell, Mark Hix and Fergus should there be demand. (£3.80) and an espresso (£1.50) film scores under their 100 Suns first punk album. They said I’d lost it extensively and there was the moves on to the next thing. It’sa came in. He was a really lovely, warm labour force. simply fancied a change and the Henderson of St John restaurant And, judging from the fact the afterwards, there was plenty of alias. So how long did it actually take all the soul music sensibilities of inevitable fall-out between us all. I really good way of channelling guy and a brilliant drummer.” Following the recent spate of cold weather, challenge of running their own –four of the chefs/food writers place was packed to the point of change out of £20 but it would be to complete Heligoland? Massive Attack and destroyed them just wanted to do something different energy. The problem with what we do The band’s last major gig in the Friska wanted to help out in the best way it kitchen. Younger daughter Livvy who have a permanent shelf of people standing at the bar, the quite possible to enjoy a “It was recorded from October 2008 in one moment. Protection got tons of and get into a new headspace from most of the time –and G will tell you West was headlining The Other Stage could by providing warming winter soups for helps out on Saturdays. honour in my kitchen. It was like food is clearly going down a substantial lunch for half that through to June 2009,” Del Naja stick after Blue Lines. We’re not new Mezzanine really. the same –is that particularly with at Glastonbury back in 2008. Among Bristol’s homeless. The aim is to cook strictly talking to a kindred spirit. storm. and with baguettes only £3.75, a explains. “A bout nine months in to that sort of criticism. “The criticism versus praise was me, I’ll over-consider it, analyse and the setlist was a bunch of still When they were starting their business, seasonal dishes on the short Situated opposite the recently The menu is short and features £5 lunch is also possible. total. But you’ve got to take into “On the last album I felt like I’d 50/50 overall. It divided people, but dismantle it, then finally get bored. unreleased songs. They’ve been Friska founders Ed Brown and Griff Holland menu, which changes every closed Borders bookshop on The a soup, a stew, a tart, a platter, a Liz and Sorrel Ferguson account that we dragged a few tracks become this horrific cyborg –the then all of our records have done There’s a definite bit of male OCD dropped from the new album or at greatly benefited from the advice they week.