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Dec 15 > Jan 15 Edition 97 ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

A NEW, NEW YEAR’S EVE Local talent to headline 20 FROM CRISIS TO KRAKOW Italians, Spaniards flock to 9 Illustration John Mann by

The bootleg that Krakow’s wannabe A tall tale for conquered the world Guy Fawkes Christmas

Photos: David McGirr

The Bootleg Vodka that Conquered the World 4 News 5 Krakow Post is a monthly publication Krakow’s Wannabe Guy Fawkes 6 owned by Lifeboat Ltd. and published News cont. 7 under license by Krakow Media ISSN: 1898-4762 From Crisis to Krakow 9-10 www.krakowpost.com Topical Polish 11 Tales from the Chalkface 11 Managing Director: David McGirr [email protected] Dear Luiza Ovlowska 11 Posted: The Month’s Events 12-13 Managing Editor: Jamie Stokes [email protected] Drop In: Zielona Kuchnia 14 The Krak: Music and Gigs 15-18 Design: Darren Wilde Kino Mania 19 [email protected] A New, New Year’s Eve 20-21 Printers: www.polskapresse.pl Fashion: Filip Roth 22

Phoebe Ryrko: Designs on Poland 24 For advertising inquiries, please contact: Robert C. Alston Set in Stone: Ludwik Teichmann 25 [email protected] Tech: WebMuses 26 +48 519 714 474 From Hollywood to Krakow: John Mann 27 A Tall Tale for Christmas 28-29 Warhol: Context 30 4 The bootleg vodka that conquered the world

■ Grażyna Zawada

renowned Polish moon- single distillery in the region. This is a big Ashine has been struggling no-no for local farmers – each one has their to achieve legal status for 20 own secret recipe for śliwowica and they years. Now, one local fruit pro- want the government to approve home- ducer has made it through the made production, supervised by the tax legislative minefield. office. “We like the solution used in Austria, Śliwowica, the 70-plus percent plum vodka where fruiters produce śliwowica under a made in the vicinity of Łącko, near Nowy 50 percent excise tax, as long as state lim- Sącz, is a liquid metaphor of Polish history. its are kept to,” said Janusz Klag, the new It is a traditional Polish Highlander’s tipple Łącko district head, adding that all other perfected by a Jew who was killed by Nazis EU countries have managed to regulate and had his distillery closed by Soviets. It this area. is officially illegal, but known and praised There is one man in the Łącko area who across the country and beyond. need not be afraid of making and selling According to reliable sources, śliwowica plum vodka. In November 2012, local fruit is the fourth strongest alcoholic drink in producer Krzysztof Maurer was granted a the world, coming after rectified spirit, has not yet been constituted. A legal limbo Ministries of Treasury, Health, Economics permit to produce fruit distillates, includ- Everclear and Absinthe. Plum are persists, and śliwowica distillers are carry- and Agriculture, and would have to com- ing from plums. popular right across Central Europe, but ing on as normal. ply with excise tax law and anti-alcoholism “I wanted to do everything legally, the variety produced in Łącko is the one Oddly enough, being an illegal product legislation. but the reluctance of the politicians has that wins the international awards, despite hasn’t prevented forgers from copying it. “We need to finalize legalisation. In the forced me to launch sales on general being illegal. False śliwowica is sold across the region, current situation, all parties lose: the pro- terms. Because I had to comply with strict Traditionally, the region’s śliwowica especially in tourist hot spots such as Za- ducers, the customers and the state,” said regulations, my production is not as cost- (Śliwowica łącka – ‘śliwowica from Łącko’) kopane. It is made from cheap spirit with former Łącko district head, Franciszek effective,” said Maurer, who went through has been distilled in small quantities by added plum flavouring, which means it is Młynarczyk, who has been pleading a complicated, three-year legalisation pro- hundreds of ‘home producers.’ This is, un- potentially deadly. According to Zakopane śliwowica’s case to politicians for decades. cedure. A bottle of his plum vodka costs surprisingly, frowned upon by the authori- police, there has been at least one death “Legal production could be combined about 70 zloty, because it is liable to 100 ties, but has been impossible to stamp out. from fake śliwowica in the last year. Buying with agro-tourism. We could open up a percent excise tax. Maurer’s product is Since 2011, the term ‘Śliwowica łącka’ genuine plum vodka requires time and ef- local store, under our society’s auspices, called ‘Vodka from Łącko plums,’ since the has been registered as a trademark by a lo- fort since locals are reluctant to reveal their and local manufacturers would compete name ‘Śliwowica łącka’ is restricted. cal association of fruit farmers, and police sources. with the quality of their products,” added “My name is enough to guarantee the have largely stopped pestering producers, Attempts to legalise the production and Młynarczyk’s deputy, Stanisław Myjak. quality of the product,” said Maurer. “I’m though its manufacture and sale remain sale of śliwowica have been going on for National authorities and local producers a local man and my family has known technically illegal. Farmers are now entitled 20 years. According to the press office of disagree about the future of their famed the recipe for generations. Perhaps, if the to apply to a board for permission to use the Ministry of Agriculture, the decision firewater. If the government did agree to regulations change, I’ll apply for the name the name, but, unfortunately, the board would require a consensus between the legal production, it would have to be at a ‘Śliwowica łącka,’” he muses. ■ Anthony Casey christmas and new year’s news party in Krakow

50° 03' 11" N Krakow’s city centre population halves said: “We cannot require that the entrepre- 19° 57' 32" E in a decade neurs running these activities are focused Krakow’s city centre is becoming a play- in one place, because there is freedom of ground for tourists and party-goers, as resi- economic activity. Even if we set up such dents move to outlying areas in search of a district, we do not know if anyone will go check our lower rents. there. special christmas package The residential population of the Old Town has fallen by almost half in just over a de- Polish universities seek foreign staff cade – from 70,000 in 2000 to just under Polish universities need more foreign staff new year’s 40,000 this year. Rents in the city are rising, to help attract students from abroad, ac- and in place of domestic properties, bars cording to the head of an influential edu- party and clubs are opening. Those apartments cation foundation. with DJ 4Fun that remain are often let by owners to tour- Waldemar Siwiński, of the education & DJ EkiM ists. foundation Perspektywy, said the country Bogusław Krzeczkowski, chairman of the needed more foreign students, but that a Old Town District, told local press that key obstacle to achieving that goal was the noise was also driving people out of the lack of English-speaking teachers. city centre – and warned that the area He told the Polish news agency PAP: “We around the historic Rynek Główny could are still learning to operate English lan- soon resemble an ‘open air museum’ if the guage teaching programmes, and the restaurant hotel conferences wellness trend continued. number of schools with bilingual instruc- Mr Krzeczkowski suggested that an ‘enter- tion – in Polish and English – can be count- Galaxy Hotel & Andromeda Restaurant tainment district’ should be created away ed on the fingers of one hand.” Gęsia 22a, 31-535 Kraków T: +48 12 342 81 00, F: +48 12 342 81 10 from the main square, but the city council A new report by Perspektywy found that [email protected], www.galaxyhotel.pl www.jordan.pl has turned down his plan. more than 24,000 foreign students >7 Elżbieta Koterba, deputy mayor of Krakow, are studying at universities around 6 Krakow’s wannabe Guy Fawkes The mild-mannered lecturer who tried to blow up parliament

■ Nissan Tzur

he spectre of violent political extremism After graduating from high school, Brun- Tintruded into Krakow’s quiet, academic on K. studied Chemical technology at the world in November when Polish security Krakow University of Technology (Politechni- services announced they had arrested a ka Krakowska) and later specialised in ‘highly chemistry lecturer who had been planning energetic materials’ at the Warsaw University to detonate a massive bomb outside the of Technology (Politechnika Warszawska). country’s parliament building, intended to A spokesperson for the Krakow prison kill as many senior government figures as service told the Krakow Post: “Brunon K. was possible. arrested on November 11 and is currently Brunon K., a 45-year-old researcher at the incarcerated in a Krakow prison where he Agricultural University of Krakow (Uniwer- will stay for the next three months. He is sytet Rolniczy w Krakowie), was arrested considered a danger to public safety and on November 11, although news of his is under 24-hour surveillance – high secu- detention was not announced until Novem- rity measures have been implemented. His ber 20. phone calls and correspondence are also As a member of staff at the university, being monitored.” Brunon K. had ready access to chemicals and other materials used in bomb making. Brunon K.’s email address has been used He had studied explosives extensively dur- to makes numerous comments on In- ing his academic career. ternet forums over the past two years. At a press conference in Warsaw, the These comments are believed to have Polish public prosecutor Mariusz Krasoń been one of the factors that attracted said that the suspect, who resides on the the interest of Poland’s security services: Albertyńskie estate in Nowa Huta, had “Poland almost doesn’t exist anymore. been under surveillance for several months. The work of destruction has been com- During this time, Brunon K. had been ob- morowski’s press office, praised the swift for, but he refused to tell us. It was clear to pleted by the emigration of young Poles served studying the parliament buildings in and discreet action of the Polish security ser- me that he was very close to the ideology and the immigration of those ‘side-curls’ Warsaw. vices and said that the president and prime of [right-wing libertarian politician] Janusz [he uses the Polish word for the long The prosecutor added that the suspect’s minister had been fully aware that Brunon K. Korwin Mikke.” side-locks worn by some Orthodox Jew- access to university laboratories had al- was under investigation. Interviews with other students and ish men and boys] from Israel to Poland.” lowed him to acquire explosive materials, Polish government spokesperson and neighbours carried by local and national including fuses and detonators, sufficient member of parliament, Paweł Graś, said: media included revelations that Brunon K. “I am a chemist by training. A year ago, for the construction of a four tonne bomb. “This is a very serious case. We know that had offered private classes in explosives, I gave lectures to students from differ- When Police raided the suspect’s apart- the targets of the attack were the president, and that he had lost fingers on both hands ent universities in Krakow about ex- ment, they found bomb-making materials, the prime minister and the parliament as a result of a childhood experiment with plosives… Unfortunately, that ginger handguns, ammunition, body armour and a building.” explosives. bandit [his habitual description of Prime video of explosives tests apparently carried A student at the Agricultural University After his arrest, Brunon K.’s mother said: “I Minister Tusk] banned me from doing this about six months ago and I might out by Brunon K. told the Krakow Post that Brunon K. regu- do not believe he was planning to do such get five years for it!” News channel TVN 24 reported that larly spoke about politics during his lectures a thing. He was a good catholic, he voted for Brunon K. had openly admitted to being and often criticised the government: “It was Mr Kaczyński.” “One thing is certain. The government is an admirer of Anders Breivik, but that he clear that he opposed our government and Brunon K. studied at Krakow’s High terrified of the Polish people, so one day thought the Norwegian killer had “made the European Union. He said that our army School for Chemical Studies (Zespół Szkół they will go after them. It’s a good sign some mistakes” in his car-bomb attack that would soon no longer be Polish. He called Chemicznych) on ul. Krupnicza. Elżbieta Ra- because politicians were doing whatever killed eight people in 2011. The prosecutor the decision to let Russian authorities inves- matowska, the current director of the school they wanted, but now at least they are described Brunon K. as a nationalist whose tigate the Smolensk disaster ‘sick,’ and when and one of Brunon K.’s former teachers, said afraid. It’s also good because soon it will actions had been motivated by xenophobia anyone mentioned that he had not voted he had been: “a regular student with average be their turn. If you are interested, please and anti-Semitism. for Platforma Obywatelska (PO), he looked grades. He excelled only in laboratory work contact: [email address]” Joanna Wieczorek, head of President Ko- very satisfied. We asked him who he voted and the analysis of chemical substances.” Poland. Although there are 4,000 more stu- A spokeswoman for Małopolska police dents from abroad studying here, they still confirmed that officers had been called to accounted for less than two per cent of the the hospital to deal with a ‘very aggressive total student population in Poland. patient, with whom hospital staff and se- Most come from Ukraine (6,321) and Be- curity staff could not cope.” Krakow’s pros- larus (2,937). At the other end of the scale, ecutor will now lead an investigation into Poland attracts fewer Asian students than the circumstances surrounding the man’s most other countries, with just 565 from death. China and 215 from India. Krakow bomber may be tried as a Blaze devestates University Hospital lab terrorist Fire has destroyed a laboratory at Krakow’s The ‘Krakow Bomber’, who tried to blow up University hospital, causing millions of the Polish parliament and assassinate both złoty worth of damage and hampering sci- the president and the prime minister is fac- entists’ attempts to analyse samples from ing the possibility of terrorism charges. seriously ill patients. Dr. Brunon. K, who was a lecturer at the Firefighters were called to the toxicol- city’s Agricultural University, was arrested ogy and microbiology laboratory at ulica on suspicion of plotting the attack in Śniadeckich on Monday, December 10, at November. The TVN 24 news channel re- 6am. They battled with the blaze for eight corded an interview with the head of the hours before finally bringing it under con- Prosecutor’s Office in Kraków, Artur Wrona, trol. The damage was so extensive that the who said that terror charges ‘could not be building will have to be demolished. ruled out’. A spokesman for the fire department said Mr Wrona added: “Currently, Brunon K. is that firefighters had retrieved all medical suspected of preparing an attack on the records and samples while tackling the constitutional authorities of Poland, and blaze, but much valuable medical equip- we would consider this to be a crime of ter- ment was lost. He could not confirm the rorism in its character. This is significant for cause of the fire. the sentence that the court might issue… Laboratory staff will now send samples to the suspect could be sentenced to up to other hospitals in Krakow and Małopolska, up to seven and a half years in prison, as as they need to be analysed urgently in or- opposed to just five.” der that patients can get the correct treat- ment. Małopolska girl is new Miss Poland The town of Krynica Zdrój in Małopolska is 84-year-old dies after police use tear famed for its fresh mountain air and health- gas in hospital giving spas – and now the beauty spot has An 84-year-old man who attacked hospital another claim to fame, as home to this staff has died after being restrained by po- year’s Miss Poland. lice and security guards using tear gas. Katarzyna Krzeszowska was crowned at a The patient had to be restrained by staff at ceremony in Płock this weekend, and will Krakow’s Żeromskiego hospital when he represent Poland at the 2013 Miss World attacked doctors and security guards with contest, to be held on the Indonesian a knife and scissors, on Monday, December island of Bali. 10, at around 9pm. When police arrived, The 23-year-old is a student at Krakowska security guards had already subdued the Akademia, where she studies art. Ms. Krz- man using tear gas, and locked him in a eszowska told reporters that her favourite room. painter is Salvador Dali and that she would However, the patient attacked police of- like to work in computer graphics. ficers who went to the room, and tried The runner-up in the competition was Ewa to strangle one of them. A second officer Będzia. used tear gas again, to stop the attack – after which the man lost consciousness. Medical staff tried to revive him, but he Visit Inside-Poland.com for the latest news died half an hour later. about Poland in English.

9

The Southern Europeans Seeking a Better Life in Poland

Spaniard Alejandro Molina and friends braving a Krakow winter

Àngel López Peiró

The large number of international companies op- colleague of Alejan- erating from Krakow, together with the economic dro’s and spent a few lena Dudzik, the event’s “those who have moved to Poland are very brave, crisis in Southern Europe, have led to an increas- months in Gliwice as an organizer since its inception open-minded and eager to face big challenges, ing number of young Spaniards, Portuguese and Erasmus student in 2010 and in September 2010, explains that like the Polish language. They are very interesting Italians seeking a decent living and a prosperous 2011. Failing to find a job in Spain Café Madrid helps Spaniards learn people to talk to.” In her opinion, most Spaniards in future in Krakow. after graduating in computer sciences, useful information about what to do and Krakow are making an effort to integrate into Pol- Javier looked in Gdańsk, Wrocław, Poznań and see in the city, as well as giving them an insight ish society, though the language barrier makes this Alejandro Molina, a 30-year-old graduate from Warsaw before trying his luck in Krakow, and find- into Polish culture, cinema and music. quite difficult. Andalusia, is a good example. He moved to Kra- ing a position as an IT analyst in October last year. kow in October, 2010 because he could see the “It was in Krakow that I found a company willing Krzysztof Kisielewski is a Pole who attends Café Magda has also noticed that the number of economic situation in Spain worsening and he had to give me a chance,” he says. With Spain’s unem- Madrid regularly. “The first time I came to the meet- Spaniards attending the meetings has increased a Polish friend here. He left everything behind to ployment rate now above 26 percent, it is not sur- ing, I could barely say ‘hello’ or ‘goodbye’ in Spanish, significantly in recent months, likely indicating start a new life in Poland. After distributing hun- prising Javier was unable to find his first job in his but everyone made me feel very welcome.” Krzysz- a growing number of young Spanish expats ar- dred of CVs, he eventually found a job as an IT ana- homeland. tof has successfully used Café Madrid to comple- riving in the city. “When I am at Dworzec Główny lyst. Alejandro says his experience of living in Kra- ment his study of Spanish and is now fluent in the in the mornings, I overhear more people speak- kow has freed him of a certain “cultural arrogance Many young Spaniards living in Krakow, and language, in addition to having met some new ing Spanish than English,” she says. The Por Fiesta or sense of superiority” that he believes many Poles who want to improve their Spanish language and interesting people. Club’s manager, Amelia Huszcza, says numerous southern Europeans bring with them to Poland. skills, gather every Thursday evening for Café Ma- Spaniards have asked her to help them find a job drid – a language exchange event that takes place Magda Dudzik has observed that Spaniards are in Krakow recently. Javier Crego, a 27-year old from Madrid, is a at the Por Fiesta Club (ul. Warszawska 17). Magda- usually very bound to their homeland and that: 10

These new Cracovians from southern Europe have their own, individual stories, but what they all share is ambition, enthusiasm about Krakow and the conviction that they are not going back to their homelands anytime soon.

Italians in Krakow celebrate a birthday.

page 9

Italy, like Spain, is also suffering under the a career path and enjoy a better quality of life economic crisis and has sent many young than if they stayed in their home countries professionals to Krakow in recent years. Among them is 28-year old Alan Mancinotti, from L’Aquila. It is difficult to estimate how many Spaniards, He was the marketing manager for a Visa Credit started imagine Italians or Portuguese have moved to Krakow Card Partner in at the beginning of 2011 as an that a lot or how many live in the city because many are when the company decided to shut their offices educational, of us come not yet registered in their countries’ embassy or in . He searched for a job in Italy for a couple language group from regions like even with the Polish authorities. However, there of months before deciding to move to Krakow, but, in less than a year, Sicily, where people are are groups and pages on Facebook for Italian, mainly because he had visited the city a few years their Facebook page has used to going to the beach Spanish and Portuguese expats in Krakow with earlier and loved its atmosphere. more than 600 users and their until the end of October,” he says. hundreds of members (Cracovia en Español meetings have become much more “Another big challenge for us is the has over 1,000 friends, for example). During the Now, Alan is working for an IT corporation at than just a place to improve your Italian. Polish language.” Food is also a big deal for Euro2012 tournament last summer, dozens of the Krakow Business Park, but his dream is to start “Now we are a big group of friends and we the Italian community: “We really like a lot of Italian and Spanish fans gathered to watch their his own business. He believes Poland is: “Full of often organize Italian dinners, play games, watch Polish specialties but, for us, it is impossible to live national teams’ matches in the Błonia and Galeria opportunities and has huge potential. The local Italian movies, or just meet for a beer.” During the without Italian food. Whenever one of us discovers Krakowska fan zones. currency and work regulations are attracting winter months, the Italian meeting takes place as small shop where it is possible to buy true Italian many foreign investors, and this is going to have a every Monday at 18:30 in Movida Cocktail Bar (ul. olive oil or cheese, we tell everyone at our Italian These new Cracovians from southern Europe positive impact on the life of Polish people,” he says. Mikolajska 9). group meetings!” have their own, individual stories, but what they all share is ambition, enthusiasm about Krakow and Alan used to attend a weekly English-language Alan is convinced that the biggest challenge for Salaries are generally lower in Poland than in the conviction that they are not going back to their meeting, but met a Polish girl there who was most Italians living in Krakow is the weather. “I’m most of Southern Europe, but so is the cost of homelands anytime soon. studying Italian and, together, they decided to from one of the coldest cities in Italy, L’Aquila, but living. In Krakow, these young professionals can at organize meetings for Italian speakers in Krakow. It the cold here in Krakow is terribly wet. Try to least can gain professional experience, start along Topical Polish! with the Accent School of Polish kolędować (ja kolęduję, ty kolędujesz) uszka (noun, pl.) sylwestrowy (adj. m) mróz (noun, m) to go carolling, to sing carols Polish ravioli adjectival form of New Year’s Eve frost, freezing weather

W Święta kolęduje cała Polska! W wigilię zawsze jemy uszka z kapustą i Idziesz w tym roku na bal sylwestrowy? Prognoza pogody na Święta zapowiada grzybami. mróz i śnieg. At Christmas time the whole of Poland On Christmas Eve we always eat ravioli with Are you going to a New Year’s Eve party The weather forecast for Christmas is for frost sings carols! cabbage and mushrooms. this year? and snow.

Tales from the chalkface Dear Luiza Ovlowska… ■ Chris Riley Christmas – giving and forgiving “I know she’d never accept it if she found out. Should I My class, have been busy fundraising. Theo- student has suggested raffling it so we can confess anyway?” retically, we give all year round, but the ap- donate more money to our charity. proach of Christmas has sent everyone into This boy shows a sharp business sense. I’m a giving frenzy. December is donation time. wondering where his acumen will ultimately Firstly, the senior students are mobilising lead him. After all, big business and industry all members of our community to give to got us into the social and ecological mess Dear Luiza Ovlowska, Szlachetna Paczka, which, for those of you these charities want to address. Can young, I have a wonderful girlfriend. We’ve been to- a chat room. Both times it was because I was who’ve missed the advertising campaign idealistic entrepreneurs like my student save gether over a year, and I am head over heels bored, not because I’m missing anything in my (Where have you been? There’s even one in us, or will they sell out? It’s part of my job to in love with her. We now live together and get relationship. I’ve never cheated on my girlfriend English near the Rynek), is a national scheme foster the energy I see around me. There is so along very well. and never would. that aims to provide Christmas parcels full of much of it in these students. Before our relationship started, I watched a lot The last of the two incidents happened over goods needed by families on the breadline. My class has also raised money by bringing of porn and used sex chats on a regular basis. six months ago, but I still feel really bad about The families themselves list their needs and in the toys and books they’ve outgrown and Since we became a couple, I have fallen back it, and I know she’d never accept it if she found people or organisations link up to provide a selling them to the younger students (a cap- into my old habits on two occasions, and out. Should I confess anyway? suitable parcel of the things on the list. As a tive market). Every single student gave this bought a sex show from a woman I met in Yours, Tortured way of educating the better off students in project their thought as well as their posses- our school about what it’s like to live on very sions and made it a success. I like teenagers. Dear Tortured, a success too. little, it’s a good wakeup call. Meanwhile, in the adult world of the staff Try turning the whole thing around and If you tell your girlfriend about the incident Meanwhile, my class has chosen an inter- room, everyone is busy writing reports, seeing it from the positive side. Before you now, you drag something from the past national animal charity and aim to raise marking essays and struggling with colds. met your girlfriend, you spent a lot of time back up and give it new life, and run the risk enough money to adopt an endangered All we seem to be giving each other is on porn and sex chats. It sounds as if you of hurting her for no reason. If your torment creature from the World Wildlife Fun (WWF). headaches. Report deadlines are looming, stopped very abruptly when you met her, is so great you feel you must tell her, it might They’ve yet to decide whether it will be a concerts need rehearsing and nobody has maybe immediately? be wise to present it as a tale of evolution panda, penguin or any of the dozens of oth- enough time to give any more. So you relapsed twice in a year. That’s a rather than a plea for forgiveness. er animals we humans are hunting, eating or Several classes have launched ‘Secret Santa’ pretty amazing achievement. I see that as a You should only tell her if you think it will otherwise driving out of their habitats. boxes for the fun of giving and receiv- great victory. If it is your goal to drop porn take your relationship to a higher level – only The package that WWF provides upon adop- ing small, unexpected gifts. I’m not brave and sex chats completely, you have pretty if it will benefit both of you and contribute to tion includes a cuddly replica of the adopted enough to suggest this for the staff room. well achieved your objective. Well done! The your evolution and progress. animal. Previously, the toy had become a Inevitably someone will get left out, and two times you slipped are now more than six Many smiles to you: class mascot, but this year one enterprising teacher’s tantrums aren’t pretty. months back. I think you should see that as Luiza Ovlowska 12

A look ahead to events this month

photo: Manhattan: New Year at Kino Kika

Exhibitions Modernism and BDSM Wanda’s Legacy The Professor’s Portfolios Krystian Bielatowicz – Milpa Honza Zamojski’s latest exhibition at Bunkier Sztuki Long before Nowa Huta became known to Krakow’s Ethnographic Museum is flinging open Drawing on the experience of four years travelling in is curiously titled MDRNBDSM – a portmanteau the world as the ‘model socialist town,’ it was an the cupboard containing the vast collection of Central America, Czech-born Polish photographer made up of the consonants in ‘modernism’ and the important settlement in itself – in fact, people Polish folk materials collected by Prof. Roman Krystian Bielatowicz’s latest exhibition at the Pauza established shorthand for ‘bondage, dominance have been living there for at least 20,000 years. A Reinfuss between 1946 and 1997. The professor’s Gallery documents evolution, and revolution, in and sado-masochism,’ BDSM. Fortunately, or new exhibition at Krakow’s City Historical Museum collection includes, among many other things, traditional cultural practices. Noting the hunger unfortunately depending on your proclivities, explores the archaeology of this outlying district, 70,234 photographs, 59,830 drawings, 948 for Western pop culture, Bielatowicz attempts to visitors will be treated to an exhibition that turns drawing on excavations carried out during the stamped patterns for printing on fabric, 200 hand- capture the reality of traditional cultures in a region the “prim, rational geometry of the movement into construction of the Nowa Huta steelworks and painted ornaments and 2,012 fabric samples – all experiencing massive change. The exhibition a fetishistic fascination and power play,” rather than investigations of Kopiec Wandy, said to mark the contained in more than 800 boxes and folders. features portraits of the people Bielatowicz met an actual assault with leather whips. resting place of the legendary Princess Wanda, along the way. who drowned herself rather than marry against When: Until April 14 When: Until January 27, 2013 her wishes. Nearby stands the 13th century Where: Ethnographic Museum, Plac Wolnica 1 When: Until January 6 Where: Bunkier Sztuki, pl. Szczepanski 3a Mogila Cistercian Abbey. Where: Pauza Gallery, ul. Floriańska 18

Jewish Sports in Krakow When: Until February 2013 Young Poland The Old Synagogue branch of the Krakow Where: MHK Nowa Huta Branch, os. Słoneczne 16. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, Historical Museum always presents exhibitions Poland did not exist on any map, but it was an Fangor that do more than scratch the surface of any given Warhol at the ICC era of intense and exemplary creativity among Wojciech Fangor is regarded as the father of Polish subject, and this is no different. It’s an exploration In one of the greatest cultural coups of the year, the Polish artists who formed the loose Młoda poster art. He was the first man to wrench art from of the idea of ‘Muscular Judaism’, first posited in Krakow’s International Culture Centre has secured Polska Art Nouveau collective. This exhibition at the ‘cultural classes’ and hand it to the people, the late 19th century as a means to improve the a rare exhibition of some 60 of the shock-haired the Kamienica Szołayskich branch of the National and stunned authorities into submission with his physical well-being of Jews aiming to rebuild a Pop Artist’s works. Titled ‘Contexts’ the exhibition Museum in Krakow, captures the spirit of the age, blunt refusal to toe the party line, prefering to state. The exhibition looks in depth at the 20 or also takes the opportunity to explore Andy bringing together a collection of works from the create his work in a recognisably European style so Jewish sports clubs active in Krakow in the Warhol’s Central European roots (his parents were greatest artists working in Krakow at the time which was at once his own and a far cry from the 20th century, and presents a fine collection of born in what is now Slovakia, not a million miles – including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and others. demands of Soviet Realism. This exhibition at the memorabilia from clubs not just here, but in Łódż, from Krakow). See: www.mck.krakow.pl, and page Highlights include posters for exhibitions, satirical National Museum in Krakow features almost 200 Warsaw and Berlin. 27 of this magazine. cartoons, sketches, paintings and objets d’art. of Fangor’s works, marking his 90th birthday.

When: Ongoing When: Until February 10 When: Until September 2013 When: Until January 6, 2013 Where: Old Synagogue Museum, ul. Szeroka 24 Where: ICC, Rynek Główny 25 Where: Kamienica Szołayskich, pl. Szczepański 9. Where: National Museum in Krakow, al. 3 Maja 1 CULTURAL PARTNERS Masters of the Miniature New Horizons New Year’s at Teatr Groteska 13 Small, they say, is beautiful. Space Gallery, certainly Dads are welcome too – but the stars of these Krakow’s internationally renowned Groteska Other one of the best-endowed, private galleries in screenings at what has been dubbed ‘Europe’s owes some of that renown to its long tradition Krakow’s New Year’s Concert Krakow, is testing this theory with a wonderfully best independent cinema’ are undoubtedly the of performances for kids. For the Christmas and It may have escaped your notice, but 2012 is cluttered exhibition of the miniature, compact, kids. The Thursday morning programme is a New Year season, the experts are putting on almost done. Assuming Mayan ghosts don’t do for bijou and Lilliputian. Drawings, photographs and chance for parents to see a movie without having two perfect examples: Tygrys Pietrek and Tygrys us all, Cracovians will gather in the Rynek Główny paintings of small-to-moderate scale will swarm to find a sitter for the baby; just put him/her in the i Kapitan Morgan, recounting the adventures of for the traditional New Year’s Eve revelries as they the gallery’s walls in the run-up to Christmas, all of pram and roll it into the cinema. Pod Baranami is a cowardly tiger who finds his courage. Groteska do every year. Things are going to be a bit different them the perfect size to fit under the tree. also offering mums and dads a chance to vote on is also involved in this year’s innovative New Year this time as the city has abandoned the idea of When: Until December 31 the movies they would like to see. concert in the Rynek. See pages 20–21. flying in big, foreign names and turned instead to Where: Space Gallery, ul. Św. Marka 7 When: Every Thursday When: Through Dec and Jan Krakow’s own musical talents. Ten bands, half of Where: Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 Where: Teatr Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 them made up of or including expats who live in Jiří Kolář: the city, will rock the square from 8pm on the 31st Collage with an Ermine until everyone falls over. The Czech poet, writer, painter and translator Jiří When: New Years’s Eve Kolář was one of the great revolutionaries of 20th- Underground Cinema New Years’s Express at Where: Rynek Główny century art, although his early work was vigorously Cinemas are great for getting you out of the Krakowska house, and watching movies at home is great Opera Krakowska is putting on not one, but two oppressed by the regime he lived under. MOCAK’s The Great Orchestra of with a few beers and a a few friends, but how nights of musical delights to ease us out of 2012 exhibition is the first, large-scale presentation of his Christmas Charity work in Poland and includes a highly characteristic to combine the two? Step forward Off.Kijów, and into the thrilling blankness of 2013. The New Sneaking in just before the next edition of the collage-deconstruction by the artist of Krakow’s an initiative from Kijów.Centrum that advertises Year Express concerts take place on December Krakow Post is due out is Poland’s biggest charity beloved Lady with an Ermine. itself as an ‘underground cinema club.’ The idea is 30 and 31 and promise to: “take you on a musical event: Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy. In When: Until January 27 simple – comfy sofas, a well-stocked bar, and an journey around the world.” The bar and restaurant case you’ve never experienced this phenomenon Where: MOCAK, ul. Lipowa 4 endless stream of schlock and B-movies to giggle stay open after the concert on the 31st until the before, expect the streets of Krakow to be and marvel at. All showings cost 10 zł, except last guest leaves: See: www.opera.krakow.pl. teeming with volunteers rattling collection tins in Garden City, Gated City on Bloody Mondays (every Monday is a Bloody When: December 30 and 31 the couple of days leading up to January 13. Give One thing that stands out about Polish urban Monday at Kijów), when entry is free. See: www. Where: Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 generously – wearing the iconic heart-shaped spaces, as compared to those in Western Europe, offkijowklub.pl for listings. sticker is the only way to escape their attentions, is their openness. Communist-era housing estates, When: Most days and the cause is always a rattling good one. while sometimes grim, were always accessible to Where: Kijów.Centrum, al. Krasińskiego 34 For more events vist www.cracow-life.com Where: Everywhere everyone. Since 1989, a lot has changed. Poles When: January 13 have taken the opportunity to build private spaces Concerts and closed communities. This exhibition looks at the impact of this new freedom to enclose on New Year’s at the Philharmonic Poland’s cities. If standing around in the freezing cold while merry When: Until Jan 31, 2013 youngsters let fireworks off beside your head isn’t Where: National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 for you, eschew the concert in the Rynek Główny and make for the relative calm of Filharmonia Krakowska. This year’s Sylwester concert includes firm favourites alongside lesser-known works that rarely get an outing. Visit www.filharmonia.krakow. pl for details. When: December 31 Where: Filharmonia Krakowska, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1

Theatre, Opera & Dance Film

News Year’s at Kino Kika Love cinema, but also want to party on New Year’s The Snow Queen Eve? Kino Kika has the answer – an evening of Hans Christian Andersen’s best loved, and most classic Woody Allen movies, some hot food and haunting, tale gets the full Teatr Ludowy treatment an all-night bar. The evening begins at 8pm with a for these early January performances, certain to welcome drink. Allen’s Manhattan shows at 9pm, delight kids and grown-ups. Andersen’s story, followed by a break to see in the New Year and eat, first published in 1845, of a shattered mirror that then it’s back to your seats for a showing of Small insinuates evil into everyone it touches remains a Time Crooks. The night ends at 6am. See: kinokika. powerful allegory of temptation, and the power of pl. love. See: www.ludowy.pl When: December 31 When: January 8 and 9, 10am Where: Kika Cinema, ul. Krasickiego 18 Where: Teatr Ludowy, os. Teatralne 34 14 Drop in: ul. Grabowskiego 8 ■ Stuart Wadsworth Zielona Kuchnia www.zielonakuchnia.eu

Photo: David McGirr ielona Kuchnia (‘Green Kitchen’ or bare brickwork, wooden stairs and floors. ‘Cuisine’) appeared about 18 months Easy-listening music is turned down low, as Zago on a back street near Aleja and, is the lighting. We took a seat upstairs, which despite being nowhere near a tourist thor- we had to ourselves. oughfare, has gained a very solid word-of- The menu is fairly short and simple, but does mouth reputation and internet buzz, thanks provide plenty of variety. Chef Bartłomiej in no small measure to its high Trip Advisor Płócienniak, trained in London, has cre- rating. I went along on a freezing Sunday ated an imaginative, seasonal menu with evening to check it out. simple, fresh ingredients that includes clas- Despite the name, Zielona is not a vegetar- sic European dishes such as beef, duck, ian restaurant – on the contrary, it serves a goose, salmon and lamb, plus a smattering variety of very meaty dishes – but it does of soups, salads and pastas. The wine list is boast a very verdant garden in the summer, reasonably varied too, with the usual vin- which is currently decorated with jolly lights, tages from around the world. I plumped for creating an instantly welcoming feel. a fruity house red dry and followed it up with Entered through an archway that opens a Paulaner; the beer list happily also includes onto a courtyard, the garden is one of the a Czech brew or two. nicest spots you can find to sit outside in the Starters are priced around the 20zl mark. city on a summer’s eve, but we went inside I kicked off with a pâté made of goose liver a tangy sauce that complemented the rich, and mint seasoning, fried buckwheat groats to thaw out. The interior is intimate, on two and served with moist brown bread, mari- velvety, meaty spread. Delightful. My partner and caramelized quince. It was tender, and levels, with tasteful and understated décor, nated shallots and Cumberland seasoning – had a tantalizing starter of grilled beef sirloin the accompanying sides were highly com- steak in ginger and cinnamon seasoning, plementary, especially the goat’s cheese. served with Arugula lettuce, prunes and ca- The duck fillet was served with a cherry shews. Spicy and sweet, this seemed to be vodka sauce, caramelized apple, braised cab- another winner. bage and baked potatoes with thyme, all of I followed up with a Portuguese fish soup which were cooked, and served, with a great with seafood, Sambuca, sliced vegetables deal of thought and care. and saffron. The fresh king prawns and mus- Dessert arrived with a coffee laced with Bai- sels were juicy and, combined with the tasty leys. I had a ‘triple chocolate delight’; dark, broth, hot, hearty and delicious. The alcohol milk and white chocolate, served in a crispy added a novel twist. The autumn pumpkin chocolate shell with a raspberry sauce. This soup with melted Gorgonzola cheese and was a light, delicious, and highly-calorific, roasted pumpkin seeds was also very agree- conclusion to a very satisfying meal. My part- able – creamy and very tasty. Both priced ner’s was even better – hot chocolate fon- 12zl, they were also quite reasonable. due with red fruit seasoning and a creamy The mains raise the bar price-wise. At be- ice-cream. Very naughty. tween 32 and 65zl, they do make this eatery Overall, Zielona Kuchnia was cosy, atmo- firmly a mid-range choice. I had half portions spheric, relaxing and welcoming while pro- of both the lamb and the duck, two of my fa- viding top-quality food at mid-range prices. vourites. Lamb, so hard to get in this city and The service is also impeccable. It is hard to so mystifyingly unpopular among Poles, was find fault with anything. This reviewer gives on the bone and served with goat’s cheese Zielona Kuchnia the green light. 15 16 17 18 19

Giuseppe Sedia Mój rower (My Father’s Bike), 2012 Starring: Krzysztof Chodorkowski, Artur Żmijewski, Michał Urbaniak Directed by: Piotr Trzaskalski

Better later than never for Michał Urbaniak, who made his acting debut at the age of 69 in Piotr Trzaskalski’s welcome return to filmmaking. The Polish jazz hero made a positive impression on moviegoers in the role of Włodzimierz ‘Włodek’ Starnawski, a retired clarinettist once invited to play with Benny ‘King of Swing’ Goodman. Almost impassive in front of the camera, Urbaniak underplayed his role with delicacy, reducing his range of facial expressions to the bare essentials. Mój rower (My Father’s Bike, 2012) deals with the masculine microcosm of three blood relatives scattered across Europe and obsessed with music. Włodek barely speaks to his son Paweł (Artur left out of the frame in the screenplay co-penned a graceful road movie when the three men travel relieve the strain by putting the music in the right Żmijewski), a piano virtuoso based in Berlin. Paweł by Wojciech Lepianka. The pre-existing empathy to Suwałki to bring Włodek’s wife back home. Mój place at the right time. The inter-generational lake is also in a conflicted relationship with his boy, between Włodek and his grandson becomes rower is a welcome alternative to festival-targeted bathing scene is one of the most convincing in Krzysztof, (Krzysztof Chodorkowski) who lives with the key to restoring healthier relationships in the European movies often characterised by excessive new Polish cinema. his mother in . Women are deliberately family. Trzaskalski’s film suddenly transforms into dryness. Trzaskalski has cleverly managed to

Fuck for Forest, 2012 Directed by: Michał Marczak

Seduced by the low fidelity look of amateur videos produced by a Berlin-based community of sex-activists, Michał Marczak hasn’t rested on his laurels after completing the multi-award winning documentary Koniec Rosji (At The Edge of Russia, 2011). In his directorial debut, Marczak focused on daily interactions in a Russian military unit assigned to a base on the isolated Taymyr Peninsula. For his new project, Marczak spent a year in very close contact with the backbone of Fuck for Forest (FFF) – a non-profit environmental organisation, before filming their activities. Since 2004, FFF members have made Internet porn, accessible through a monthly subscription, to fund sustainability projects in the Amazonian rainforest. After investigating the group dynamics. This Polish-German co-production the land they have purchased refused by the Bora for narrative suggests that he will pursue a brilliant emptiness of military rhetoric in an uninhabited is anything but the success story of a non- tribe. Fuck for Forest can be regarded partly as a tale career in fictional cinema. The documentary will be landscape, Marczak once again demonstrates his governmental organisation. The FFF crew eventually of disenchantment and the dreams of eco-activists released shortly in theatres across Norway, the UK genuine and non-voyeuristic interest in scrutinising travel to Amazonia, where they see the donation of abruptly shattered in the jungle. Marczak’s penchant and .

Pan Tadeusz,1928 Starring: Wojciech Brydziński, Zofia Zajączkowska, Mariusz Maszyński, Leon ŁuszczewskiDirected by: Ryszard Ordyński The list of Polish silent movies that survived plot of the epic poem narrates the rivalry between Mickiewicz during his exile in Paris. Considered by World War II can be counted on the fingers two noble families set against Napoleon’s invasion Ordyński himself: “a sentimental journey through of one hand. Ryszard Ordyński’s adaptation of of Russia. The struggle for reconciliation between some situations from the book, rather than a mere Mickiewicz’s literary masterpiece Pan Tadeusz both parties parallels the Grande Armée’s advance illustration of the poem,” Pan Tadeusz astonishes (1834) is among the few. Poland’s National Film through the Russian-occupied part of Poland. with the wideness of its outdoor shots as well as Archive was able to meticulously reconstruct 120 Andrzej Wajda was two years old when the original the sumptuousness of its costumes. Furthermore, minutes of the original, three-hour version. The premiered in Warsaw in the presence of Marshall the choreography of the concluding is movie was partially shot at the Karpowicz Manor Józef Piłsudski. Delightfully, both the original and as well-orchestrated and refined as the acclaimed in Belarus, close to Adam Mickiewicz’s home. The the reconstruction open with an overview of finale to Wajda’s 1999 film of the same title. 20

Local bands, Polish and expat, will dominate Ryan Skrabalak this year’s concert on the Rynek

Let me start by making it clear that I One thing that has changed is that around the city, in Podgórze, Kazimierz, Tower of Babel (Krakowska Wieża Babel), have no beef with R&B singer Kelis (of there will actually be a New Year’s concert Stare Miasto, and Nowa Huta, each with which, according to Krakowskie Biuro ‘Milkshake’ and ‘Popular Thug’ fame). She’s this year. Bureaucratic quandaries, their own type of music. Festiwalowe (KBF), symbolises: “history… not my favourite, but I have no problem intensified by the city’s fiscal crisis, made The four stages would represent four tradition… tolerance and hospitality.” with her. I will say, however, that I was for a complete no-show in 2012. There different ‘cities,’ – a microcosm of Krakow. The bands only got final confirmation flabbergasted to find that she played were no big names on stage in the Cracovians would be encouraged to hop in early December, eight months after Krakow’s New Year’s Eve concert just two Rynek, just a couple of small DJ sets. around the city, sampling music from initial contact and perilously close to years ago. Old traditions die hard, though, each stage. Chase gave Teatr Groteska the finish line. Perhaps the delay can Other than the nicely alliterative title and some 18,000 people crowded the a list of 15 bands (later whittled down be attributed to the difficulty of getting one could brainstorm (‘Kelis: Concert in square anyway to set off fireworks, drink to ten), and the wheels began to turn. three very different organisations, the Krakow,’ etc.), I struggle to fish up any sort vodka, and dance. Perhaps this was the “Then,” Chase laments, “the wire went KBF, the city and Teatr Groteska, working of reasoning to legitimise her Sylwester turning point for city authorities: people silent.” in synch. appearance. Why Kelis? Why Kelis and will show regardless, either with Kelis or Everything was to be signed and ready In fact, the city has made a brave and Krakow? What’s the connection? I was without her. by the end of June 2012, but no one significant step by embracing its very stumped, and slightly amused. In April of 2012, something magical heard anything until mid-July. Krakow eclectic and prolific artistic community – That was two years ago. The world and quite unexpected happened. found itself in the midst of another the 2013 Sylwester programme is proof has changed; Krakow has changed Adolf Weltchek, director of Krakow’s budget funk and the city scaled back of that. Krakow needn’t look far outside (for example, we now have Nicki Teatr Groteska, approached local expat the number of bands to five, and razed the Planty for quality musical talent and Minaj). Krakow’s 2013 New Year’s Eve musician Thymn Chase and asked him to all but one of the ‘cities,’ – Stare Miasto has made a bold, if hesitant, move by celebrations promise to be different. help organise 2013’s Sylwester event. would be the one and only stage. embracing its own. Instead of looking and reaching out to Weltschek and his colleague Jacek The green light for New Year’s Eve Cracovians will be in the Rynek on cultures and climes further afield, the city Stankiewicz recalled a 2006 performance 2013 finally came in late September, December 31, whatever has been has looked into itself, and into a unique of Chase’s band Elucktrick, and asked him after five more bands had been added planned. The morning after will reveal if musical culture that has always existed to compile a list of local Polish and expat to the bill. In total, ten bands are slated the Tower of Babel stood or fell. here. That’s quite a refreshing notion in bands. The programme concept was to play — five Polish, five expat. The 2013. epic: the city would organise four stages event is being branded as Krakow’s 21

Teddy Jr Don’t Ask Smingus

New Year’s Eve Programme of Events

20:30 – 20:50 FoxGang 20:55 – 21:15 Jan Wojdak and Wawele 21:20 – 21:35 Vladimirska 21:40 – 22:10 Grupa Pod Budą 22:15 – 22:30 Teddy Jr. 22:35 – 22:55 Joanna Słowińska and Wojciech Fedkowicz Noise Trio 23:00 – 23:20 Kulturka 23:25 – 23:55 Maja Sikorowska and Kroke 23:55 – 24:00 Speech by Krakow’s Mayor, Jacek Majchrowski 24:00 – 24:05 New Year’s laser show 00:05 – 00:25 Eluktrick 00:30 – 00:50 Don’t Ask Smingus

FoxGANG

The full lineup, along with band bios and links to artist's websites, can be found here: sylwester.krakow.pl Martyna Wilde Photography by Daniel Korzewa Daniel by Photography

He is young, but circumspect. He is based in of the most significant fashion events, including designs with a futuristic twist have a strange, Krakow, but the city doesn’t have the slightest Fashion Week Poland as part of the OFF Out otherworldly quality to them and are extremely importance in his creative process, a process that of Schedule segment in 2011, which featured well crafted – a factor that is very important to begins with an empty room, a pencil and some his collection as a multimedia spectacle. His the designer. Roth manages to strike a balance paper. He is the man behind the pseudonym Filip ‘Undecided’ show included models wearing between the avant-garde and the wearable. Roth. white, poncho-like garments onto which images of the designs were projected. The show stunned His latest collection ‘Installing Identity’ is Filip Roth is Krakow’s latest export to Warsaw, a Polish audience and was lavishly praised. inspired by the Finnish artist Ilkka Halso, especially having recently opened a pop-up store at ul. his ‘Museum of Nature’ project, which focuses Mysia 3 – an exclusive retail space in the former Filip Roth’s vision is interdisciplinary – he sees art, on the idea of creating shelters to protect the offices of the state censor in the capital. Not bad, clothes, performance and film coming together, natural environment from the damaging impact considering Filip Roth’s vision became a reality a and he clearly doesn’t take fashion lightly. Gender of mankind. Roth’s clothes, with their dome-like mere two years ago. and identity seem to be important themes at hoods, also appear to be protecting the wearer the core of his collections. When asked what the from the impact of the outside world. The colours The most obvious connotation of the name is relationship between identity and garments is, are beautifully low key – blacks, whites and greys the author of the infamous Portnoy’s Complaint he replies that personality is the outcome of the with a subtle blue detailing. – US writer Philip Roth – but according to the have created quite a buzz and featured in Exklusiv tension between the two. designer, his pseudonym is a hybrid of the first and KMag – the two magazines at the forefront and last names of two people who are important of cutting edge fashion, and fashion publishing, Roth uses his words carefully and concisely – While Roth’s designs often operate in the to him. in Poland. just as his clothes are minimal, almost purist. They realm of the ethereal, there is also a sincerity certainly don’t force themselves on the wearer, and a human element that is just as captivating. His sculptural creations with minimalist flare Filip Roth has also found his way into some but still manage to be highly original. His minimal Experience it for yourself at filiproth.com.

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Dwór Sieraków entrance hall (photo: Natalia Gąsiorek) They took on a huge project, without any clear idea of where it would lead them, because they wanted to save that wonderful Jamie Stokes building. Phoebe Ryrko (photo: Marta Żabska) I spot Phoebe Ryrko at once, even though the wallpaper in Castorama is an insult to people’s Grabowska and Paweł Gąsiorek. They took on a cafe is crowded. Perhaps it’s the giant spray of intelligence!” she exclaims, light heartedly but huge project, without any clear idea of where it white lilies she is carrying on a grey November with surprising heat for an opinion on home would lead them, because they wanted to save evening that marks her out as associated with furnishings. that wonderful building.” Set in four hectares the world of refinement and design, not to of wooded park, Sieraków Manor has been mention as slightly eccentric. It is natural that Krakow would snare Phoebe – transformed into a 27-room hotel at the very the fundamental beauty of the built environment peak of sophistication and style. The flowers, it turns out, are props for a photo and the layered centuries of fine craftsmanship shoot at Dwór Sieraków – a 19th-century manor were bound to fascinate her. “We came for a year Perhaps surprisingly, a lot of that style is British. near Wieliczka that Phoebe has spent the last – my husband is Polish – and we’ve been here “Almost all the furniture and a lot of the fixtures four years helping to transform from a near ruin ever since,” she explains simply. came from England or Scotland,” says Pheobe. into a splendid hotel and restaurant. “Even the slate floors come from the UK, not But there is, perhaps, something about Krakow because British slate is superior, just because it “I wasn’t going to treat myself to flowers,” she other than its beauty that holds Phoebe here: the worked out cheaper than sourcing it in Poland.” confides, “but since they were useful for the fact that it needs her help – not that she would The slate issue is indicative of a wider problem. photos, I had an excuse.” I can see she is already ever agree to such a claim. Krakow’s beauty is “I have great respect for Polish craftsmanship, picturing them at home, and anticipating the lift also faded and chipped. She is pained by the but the market is underdeveloped here, and so they will bring to her environment. number of buildings that were dilapidated by much from the past has been destroyed,” says decades of poor care under Communism. Now Pheobe. Phoebe Ryrko is all about making the world that huge efforts, and huge sums, are being put more beautiful and uplifting. An English interior into reclaiming the glories of the past, Phoebe And how has the introduction of traditional designer who has been living and working in Ryrko is the right woman in the right place at the British design to a traditional Polish building been Krakow for seven years, her passion is making right time. received by Poles? “Everyone who has seen it has people’s lives better by refining the spaces in loved it,” says Phoebe with some satisfaction. “I which they live, work and play. Although far from her only undertaking in see it as my mission to refresh Poland’s palette,” Poland, the interior design for Dwór Sieraków she says. As she moves on to new projects (next is She frowns, distracted, at a chip in the teapot has taken up a lot of the recent years for Pheobe. a new-build house in Niepołomice) it is clear that on the table as she rails against poor design: “The “I have huge admiration for the owners, Caroline Poland’s palette may never be the same again. SET IN STONE

The great, the good and the dead ✼ according to Krakow’s multitude ✼ of memorial plaques

In Brief: Hardly. Teichmann was still a student when A plaque on ul. Floriańska commemorating he published his findings. the achievements of the man who made CSI ● ● ● Miami possible. Where did he study? ● ● ● Heidelberg and Göttingen, before being ap- What did he do? pointed to the chair of anatomy in Krakow. Ludwik Teichmann was among the forerun- ● ● ● ners of modern forensic science. One of his What about his background? many achievements was the discovery of a Teichmann was brought up by aunts, as method of finding invisible blood stains at his parents died when he was six years old. scenes of crimes. There’s a story that he left Poland for Germa- ● ● ● ny because of the death of a friend in a duel, How can you find invisible stains? though probably it had as much to do with Teichmann found that certain organic com- Russian aggression towards eastern Poland pounds in blood formed recognisable crys- at the time. tals (Teichmann Crystals), visible only under ● ● ● a microscope. His method was so simple And his legacy? that it quickly became a standard test in fo- Put it this way – without Teichmann’s re- rensics, and could be used to prove beyond search, all modern chemical analysis of doubt that human blood was present at a blood would be impossible. crime scene. ● ● ● ● ● ● Bookend biography: Sounds like the culmination of a lifetime Born September 16, 1823, Lublin. Died No- of study. vember 24, 1895, Krakow.

Anthony Casey 26