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May 2012

Edition 91 ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com THE GREAT EURO 2012 STAY-AWAY Philharmonia falling?

…risk of imminent collapse

Big“ brother blinks

…20m zł project dropped

Indie“ screens go dark

Anthony Casey Krakow in June. It was a similar story at the Qubus hotel, Hoteliers in the city centre have reported and, at a prestigious hotel on the main While Krakow prepares to welcome up to changes in their usual booking patterns square the manager added: “In June, it 100,000 football fans for this summer’s for summer. Some say that numbers is mostly tourists who come to us. This European championship, some experts are down by as much as 10 per cent, year, however, we have a few empty have warned that the tournament could while others say that the loss of regular spaces. In our opinion, this is because of have a negative effect on tourism in the summer tourists has been compensated Euro 2012. The average tourist who is not city. for by visitors coming to Krakow for the interested in the championships does not Krakow will not host any Euro 2012 tournament. want to come to the city; paradoxically, …the dream is over matches, but with England, Italy and the Zbigniew Janczur, manager of the the championship has damaged us.” Netherlands set to make the city their Capanile hotel, told the newspaper Gazeta However, at Radisson Blu, the “ base for the duration of the tournament, Wyborcza that bookings were noticeably tournament is expected to have a positive Wisła edged out many fans from each of these nations down compared to last year. impact. Wojciech Liszka, sales director, are expected to descend on the city to be He said: “Our regular customers are not told Gazeta Wyborcza that regular summer close to their idols. However, the influx of interested in reservations for June. They business was down. But, he added: football fans could put off other tourists, were with us in April, and we expect them “The deficiency is completely who would otherwise have come to to arrive again in July.” compensated for by groups strictly >> 2

CATHERINE Z. MURDER TRIAL …seven rounds of penalties A bus driver accused of the murder of a the late night 610 route. But he told the a nine-month investigation ahead of the “ British student in Krakow last summer has court that he ‘lost control,’ and had not trial. The case against Mirosław L. is that told a court that the death was accidental. meant to kill her. He claims that a series he was aware of what he was doing. The The body of 21-year-old art history of ‘annoyances’ – a ticket machine that prosecution claims that the driver beat student Catherine Z. was found in a ditch was out of order, and noisy late night Catherine Z., and when she fell into a on July 30. A student at the University passengers among them – preceded the water-filled ditch, leaned on her. The cause of Kent, she was in Krakow to pursue a attack. When Catherine realised that she of her death was recorded as drowning. career in journalism. had missed her stop and asked him to turn The prosecution further suggests that Mirosław L., 45, was arrested on back, he said, he ‘snapped.’ Mirosław L. acted rationally after the suspicion of murder in August last year. The newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza event. They will seek to prove that he His trial began in Krakow on April 24. reports him as saying: “I feel sorry for disposed of evidence carefully, and then The bus driver admitted attacking what happened.” left Krakow, for ‘rational’ fear of the Catherine Z., who was a passenger on The prosecutor in Krakow carried out consequences of his actions. 2 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com Philharmonic hall, falling down?

Anthony Casey by the results of the investigation. Mr Przytocki told Dziennik Polski that he One of Krakow’s top venues is being had approached the Małopolska Marshal’s monitored by building inspectors – for office, seeking around 600,000zł to help fear that it may be at risk of imminent pay for evaluation and repair work at the collapse. venue. The Philharmonic Hall shows signs of However, the Philharmonic in Krakow wear and tear – caused by damp in the already receives approximately 12.3 million basement and vibrations of traffic passing zł in public money each year. A spokesman by continually. Paweł Przytocki, director for the Department of Education, Culture of the Philharmonic, told the newspaper and National Heritage at the Marshal’s Gazeta Krakowska that the hall may office, said: “The Philharmonic Hall have to close. But Małgorzata Boryczko, already gets a lot of money.” Małopolska’s building inspector in In the meantime, said Mr Przytocki, the Krakow, said that no conclusions about Philharmonic may have to divert cash from the safety of the hall could be drawn until its artistic budget. And he did not rule out further investigation had taken place. She borrowing money. added that the hall would not be required “I choose deficit, not disaster,” he to close unless such action was warranted added. Krakow’s Philharmonic Hall (Filharmonia Krakowska) Photo: David McGirr New home for the lady… Hotels that compete for you Booking a hotel room has just become sent directly to the hotels in the Bidroom a lot easier – thanks to the revolutionary database, which can then make specially- and situations vacant approach of a Krakow-based business. tailored offers direct to customers. Bidroom.com, created by entrepreneur Speaking of the current model, hallmarked Anthony Casey replaced by employees of the National Mark Bradshaw, developer Ada Skakuj, by high rates of commission and tough Museum’s Krakow branch, with whom and designer Maciej Szafraniec has turned restrictions on hotel-guest contact, Mr While Krakow’s Lady With an Ermine - the the Czartoryski Foundation had worked to the booking process on its head, by allowing Bradshaw said: “The booking engines take most valuable painting in Poland - awaits secure the preservation and renovation of hotels in 20 cities worldwide to make their a huge chunk of money from the hotels, news of her new permanent home, the the museum’s collection. best offers direct to customers looking for so neither the customers nor the hotels are board of the museum that owns the picture As for the Lady... she will be housed accommodation. The website requires no getting a great deal… the booking engines have been sacked for the second time in a at Wawel Castle until renovation of the registration or log-in; users simply select are, basically, pimps.” year. Czartoryski Museum is finished. It is their destination city, travel dates, type of The bidding approach to hotel booking is However, the sackings at the Czartoryski understood that Castle and Museum hotel and rooms required, and enter the a recent hot trend. Tingo.com and BackBid. Museum appear to have been pre-emptive, authorities are in negotiations about how number of guests. The details are then com are trying a similar idea. as members of the board have since gone on revenue from ticket sales to view the the record saying that they were preparing painting will be split, and work to ensure a to resign anyway. safe environment for the painting at Wawel Olga Jaros, chairwoman of the board, has already begun. said the sackings had shocked her and Signs of summer… her colleagues. But Janusz Czop, deputy Look out for two big events to mark the parade will be Poland’s neighbours, so be chairman, and Leszek Bednarz, another coming of summer next month - especially ready to encounter German composers, member of the board, were said by Ms if you’re looking for something to do that folk experts form Belarus, traditional Jaros to be on the verge of joining her in doesn’t involve 11 grown men being paid storytellers from the Czech Republic, a protest resignation. She told the press large sums of money to kick a ball around Slovakia and Lithuania, and Ukrainian conference that members of the board were a field. Orthodox church heritage, from June 2-3. concerned about: “attempts to limit our The Jewish Culture Festival in Krakow The June edition of the Krakow Post will role... to simply carrying out instructions.” runs from June 29 to July 8, and is now feature more on the programmes of both The Czartoryski Museum in Krakow in its 22nd edition. The festival, which the Jewish Culture Festival and the Dragon has been officially in the hands of Prince grows in stature and popularity each Parade. Adam Karol Czartoryski since shortly after year, presents concerts, workshops, film the end of Communism in Poland. A court screenings, lectures, meetings and more. ruled that he had the right to the property For full details, see the website at www. Krakow Post is a monthly – and to treasures including Leonardo da jewishfestival.pl. publication published by Vinci’s Lady With an Ermine, in 1991. Also in June will be a weekend dominated Lifeboat Ltd. Prince Czartoryski sacked his last board by dragons - culminating in a parade ISSN: 1898-4762 of managers, in July, because he said their featuring the creations of Krakow’s own www.krakowpost.com actions were not ‘transparent.’ They were Wawel (Photo: David McGirr) Teatr Groteska. The theme of this year’s Marta Firlet-Bradshaw, Publisher [email protected]

Jamie Stokes, Managing Editor month of the year for the whole of the Olympics in the battle to win the hearts [email protected] EURO 2012 STAY AWAY Krakow tourism industry, and therefore, and wallets of sports fans. Dana Dramowicz, Nightlife Editor for example, for restaurateurs.” However, city officials remain confident [email protected] related to the event.” According to Jacek Bochenek, director that Euro 2012 will bring many benefits Darren Wilde, Design

For tourism in general, the businesses of sports consultation firm Deloitte, the to Krakow. For advertising inquiries, that rely on the tide of summer visitors are situation in Krakow is not surprising. Mr Filip Szatanik, spokesman for the city please contact: holding their breath. Bochenek said hotels, many of which magistrate, said: “We anticipate that Group Sales Manager Mirosław Ernest, owner of Ernesto raised their prices for the duration of 100,000 more visitors than is usual at this [email protected] Travel, told the newspaper that travel the tournament, were competing with a time of year will be coming to us during +48 (12) 429 16 99 agents with unsold packages on their flood of private rental deals as Poles seek Euro 2012. I am convinced that the city Printers, www.polskapresse.pl books would be hit hard. to cash in on the event. Euro 2012 was will be vibrant in June.” He added: “This will be the worst also facing a challenge from the London www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | May 2012 3 No memorial for Szymborska’s grave

Anthony Casey would be no statue in the cemetery. He said: “This should not surprise The grave of the Nobel prize-winning poet anyone who knew [her]. Before her death, Wisława Szymborska is to be cleaned up we talked about this. I have no doubt that - but a monument to her work in the same [she] would not have liked any statue or place has been ruled out. decorative splendour. Perhaps there will Visitors to the grave, in Krakow’s be a monument commemorating her in Rakowicki Cemetery, currently find Krakow some time, but certainly not on worn stone, badly in need of renovation, her tombstone.” and a laminated card bearing the poet’s Patrycja Ćwikła, spokeswoman for the name and dates fastened loosely beneath office of Krakow’s Municipal Cemeteries the engraved names of her father and (Zarządu Cmentarzy Komunalnych), said mother. Michał Rusinek, who was Ms the city was responsible for the cemeteries Szymborska’s personal secretary up to as a whole, but did not have the right to her death earlier this year, said it was interfere with individual graves without sad to see that the grave in which the express permission. She added: “I do know Nobel laureate’s remains rest appeared that the tomb of Wislawa Szymborska ‘inelegant’. But, speaking to the newspaper will be renovated soon, permission has Gazeta Krakowska, Mr Rusinek said there been given.” The Szymborski family grave (Photo: David McGirr) Sleepless nights for England team? Learn from the masters A centuries-old Krakow tradition has come the city’s party zone, as well as the bugler – This month sees the start of a programme tapestry and jewellery. There will also be under fire from the English tabloid press, Gazeta Krakowska reports that their wives of lectures, workshops and more, aimed at opportunities to learn woodcut techniques, who fear that it may hamper the England and girlfriends will face similar problems revealing the secrets of the Medieval master and methods of working ceramics, metal team’s chances of winning the European at their temporary home. It is understood craftsmen who worked in Krakow. and glass. football championships. that the WAGs will stay at Hotel pod Róża, The project will be held on Tuesdays Organised by the National Museum in The hejnał mariacki – the bugle call that on ul. Floriańska. and Fridays, and will be a chance for Krakow at the Bishop Erasmus Palace, sounds from the tower of St Mary’s Church Olga Wojcik, director of the four-star participants to learn some of the skills and classes start on May 8, and will finish on in the main square every hour on the hour – hotel, told the newspaper: “It is true techniques, and produce their own works June 22. is, according to the Daily Star newspaper, that people associated with the England of art. Grind your own dyes to create For more information, email project an ‘ear-splitting’ racket that will prevent representatives will stay with us. I cannot authentic traditional colours, learn how to administrator Monika Wlezień at the players from sleeping at their base, the say any more.” decorate furniture panels, practise the art of [email protected]. nearby Stary Hotel. The story was quickly decorating books and manuscripts by hand, The workshops cost 250zł, including picked up – and laughed down – by the or learn the techniques used for making materials and admission to the museum. Polish press. It follows features in The Sun newspaper earlier this year, about the ‘poor’ state of England’s training ground, the Hutnik Stadium in Nowa Huta. The city council wrote to The Sun after the feature was published, saying that the FA were happy with the facilities, and that the stadium would be fully ready before the England squad arrives in Krakow. The hejnał mariacki is rooted deep in legend. It is said that a watchman began playing to warn the city’s residents of an attack by Tartar warriors. Now, when the tune is played, it ends abruptly, as the story tells that the watchman was shot in the throat by a Tartar arrow. While the Daily Star fears that the players will be too tired to perform well on the pitch – due to their location in the heart of Hejnał bugler (Photo: David McGirr) Krakow Post is a monthly publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. ISSN: 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

Marta Firlet-Bradshaw, Publisher [email protected]

Jamie Stokes, Managing Editor [email protected]

Dana Dramowicz, Nightlife Editor [email protected]

Darren Wilde, Design

For advertising inquiries, please contact:

Group Sales Manager [email protected] +48 (12) 429 16 99

Printers, www.polskapresse.pl 4 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com Big brother blinks The government has withdrawn from a 20- million złoty high-tech surveillance project based in Krakow amid accusations that it would violate constitutional rights.

Grażyna Zawada Spanish Ministry of Defence, and Latvian, Romanian, Maltese and Czech police. A man moves hesitantly along a street, than But in mid-April, a spokesperson for leaves a parcel near a bus stop. He might the Polish Ministry of Internal Affairs just be forgetful, or he might be planting announced that neither the police nor the a bomb. If informed early enough, the Ministry would participate in any further bomb squad could investigate, but where development of INDECT. do you find hundreds of trained personnel The official reason was that the police to watch all of the city’s CCTV cameras already have sufficient equipment to around the clock? detect threats to public security, but it is This is where technology comes in. If suspected that the change of heart is a you can get a computer do the dull job reaction to recent protests about INDECT of watching everything and reporting and the Anti-Counterfeiting Trade possible threats to humans, you can save Agreement (ACTA). Polish member a lot of time and money. But how do you of parliament Barbara Bubula recently program a machine to see the world as called INDECT: “An Orwellian system acutely as a human? of surveillance.” The INDECT project (Intelligent The Minister for Internal Affairs, Jacek information system supporting Cichocki, has also admitted that: “the observation, searching and detection project disturbs the balance between for the security of citizens in the urban security, freedom and the privacy of environment) is an EU-funded research citizens.”

project intended to provide the answer. “Scientists working on the project The programme was launched in 2009 have not done enough to dispel people’s and was expected to end in 2013. doubts,” he added. It is based on an intelligent monitoring The rector of AGH, Antoni Tajduś, system that uses cameras, microphones, said that the university has not yet been motion, temperature and pollution sensors. officially notified of the change in plans The data streams from these instruments but that: “The Ministry’s decision slightly are passed to a computer command centre, hinders our work, but doesn’t totally where algorithms screen it for any unusual disrupt it, since we are still co-operating behaviour that might mean a threat to life, with other partners. We will finish it health or public security. anyway, but we will see if it is used in The system is capable of recognising Poland or not. I believe this is a project aggressive human gestures or the visual dedicated to improving security, not for profile of a person falling to the ground. spying on the public,” he said. Another goal is for INDECT to be able to However, the rector admits that INDECT recognise wanted criminals on the street, is only a tool and, like any tool, its use or to go online and scan websites for child will depend on the buyer’s intentions. pornography. “The scope of police and security Financed mainly by the EU, INDECT powers is not clear in this area. We is co-ordinated by Krakow’s Academy also need to remember that INDECT of Mining and Metallurgy (AGH) and technologies will be available to involves several partners in Poland commercial entities beyond democratic and elsewhere in Europe, including scrutiny,” said Katarzyna Szymielewicz universities, police forces, and customs of the Panoptykon Foundation – an NGO authorities. that monitors privacy protection. The prototype was to be installed in “We have reservations about the Krakow’s Ruczaj housing estate and possibilities of integrating the data and, the finished technology was to be used therefore, the possibility for state and by Polish special services such as the private institutions to profile members Internal Security Agency. Among other of the public. This might violate the right agencies and institutions interested in to privacy or equality measures in the buying the technology are: Europol, the constitution,” she said. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | May 2012 5 The Black Wood of Stare Kiejkuty Giuseppe Sedia

The investigation into Poland’s all of these may have occurred at Stare involvement in extraordinary rendition Kiejkuty. and ‘enhanced’ interrogation is being The men have been offered pro bono played out in Krakow courtrooms. legal support from a group of lawyers Set in a green corner of Poland scattered assisting them both in the United States with bubbling springs and placid lakes, and in Europe. the manor house that is home to the 2nd Following Mierzewski’s removal from Unit Training Centre of the Agencja the case, al-Nashiri’s legal representatives Wywiadu (Poland’s intelligence agency) filed a case against Poland at the European is located in the village of Stare Kiejkuty Court of Human Rights, which was in the Masurian Lakeland. eventually registered on May 9, 2011. The 2nd Unit’s headquarters, known “The case is still pending the court’s as ‘the wood’ among Polish security decision as to further procedure. Given operatives, is tucked away out of sight, that the application was granted priority, separated from the 1st Unit by a small we would expect that a procedural step grove of trees impenetrable to journalists will be taken within the next few months,” and human rights activists. said the ECHR’s press office. It was here, critics claim, that the Polish “Al-Nashiri was abducted from Poland state allowed terror suspects snatched by without issuing any extradition warrant, the CIA to be imprisoned and tortured thus violating Article 2 of the European in flagrant disregard for Polish and Convention on Human Rights with regard international law. to the right to life,” said Mikołaj Pietrzak, In distant Krakow, the convoluted legal al-Nashiri’s defence attorney in Poland. Security fences around the military base at Stare Kiejkuty investigation into these allegations is “Despite Mierzewski’s efforts, the drawing to a close. The case was transferred investigation has so far been ineffective from Warsaw to the Prosecutor’s Office because Poland didn’t make any attempt fact that both al-Nashiri and Zubaydah with all the documentation related to the in Krakow in January of this year, and its to obtain legal support from the United are now subject to US military tribunals detention program and their co-operation conclusion is scheduled for August 12, States,” added Pietrzak, who also at Guantanamo Bay, but it is the US with the CIA, US support might not be 2012. confirmed that he has maintained contact Department of Justice that is responsible essential in order to make solid charges,” One of the two principal prosecutors, with al-Nashiri’s lawyers across the for international co-operation in criminal Helsinki Foundation for Human Rights Jerzy Mierzewski, was removed from the Atlantic. investigation. spokesperson Małgorzata Szuleka told case before its transfer to Krakow. Gazeta “These developments further confirm “If the AW provides the prosecutor the Krakow Post. Wyborcza later obtained access to his that the Polish investigation is incapable files and claimed that the prosecutor was of vindicating Mr al-Nashiri’s rights. We preparing to file charges stating that acts hope that the ECHR will act swiftly to in breach of the Polish constitution and render justice in this case,” Amrit Singh international law had occurred in Stare of the Open Society Justice Initiative told Kiejkuty. the Krakow Post. “Mierzewski was removed from the At the end of March this year, further investigation into secret CIA activities due details of the case were leaked to Gazeta to the need to assign him to another case,” Wyborcza and television news program said a spokesperson for the Prosecutor’s Panorama, revealing that former AW Office in Warsaw in May 2011. chief Zbigniew Siemiątkowski has been “To ensure credibility, the chief under investigation for his role in the prosecutor must stop hiding behind the rendition and torture programme. veil of state secrecy and explain why the Siemiątkowski, who headed the AW latest prosecutor was replaced,” said Julia between 2002 and 2004, was recently Hall, Amnesty International’s expert on sentenced to one year in prison for counter-terrorism and human rights. endorsing the illegitimate arrest of the Several men now held at Guantanamo former CEO of Polish oil giant PKN Bay ‘passed through the wood,’ including Orlen, Andrzej Modrzejewski during the Adb al-Rahim al-Nashiri and Abu so-called Orlengate affair. Zubaydah. In a letter published in April 2012, The International Committee of the the Krakow Appellate Court confirmed Red Cross completed a report into the that 62 people have been questioned in treatment of 14 CIA detainees, including connection with the Stare Kiejkuty case Abu Zubaydah, in 2007. It concluded that to date. It also confirmed that Poland has the men had been subject to numerous requested legal assistance from both the enhanced interrogation techniques, US government and human rights experts including waterboarding, beatings, sleep abroad. deprivation and forced nudity. Some or The situation is complicated by the 6 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com Krakow’s indie screens go dark Anthony Casey

When news broke that one of Krakow’s best-loved cinemas was to close, thousands signed up to a Facebook campaign in a bid to keep it open. Actors, politicians and musicians stepped into the fray, and even the Mayor of Krakow lent his support, vowing to try to find a new city centre home for Kino ARS. But, as the Krakow Post went to press, it looked as though the cinema on ul. Św. Jana would close as planned on April 30, pushed out of business by a 100 per cent rent rise. The irony of the timing has not been lost on the city’s legion of film fans, who enjoyed the Off Plus Film Festival in the middle of April, and are looking forward to the internationally-renowned Krakow Film Festival (KFF) at the end of this month. Yet, while the cinema may no longer be operating, it is likely that its name will live on in the form of a special award, also to be made in May. The achievements of ARS – named after the first three screening rooms to open there, Aneks, Reduta, and Sztuka – have won the independent film house a place on the list of nominees for the Polish Film Institute Awards, in the cinema section. Off Plus, the KFF and the Kino ARS, set to close on April 30 (Photo: David McGirr) Etude & Anima festival are also among the Krakow institutions to be short-listed. April 25 – and so Kino ARS’s chances of The winners will be announced at the 37th survival in the city centre drew to a close. Gdynia Film Festival, on May 9. Kino ARS will not be the first The new rent for the cinema space in independent cinema in Krakow to fall. the city centre building has been reported One only has to take a walk around the in Polish media at around 80,000zł – Planty to find what was once Kino Wanda, although the Krakow Post was unable to said to have been the city’s first purpose- confirm that figure. Neither is it known built cinema, and now a supermarket who will take over the premises when still bearing the ‘Wanda’ sign above its ARS leaves. Initial speculation in local doors. And, although ARS has only been media put the supermarket firm Carrefour operating in its present form since 1995, in the frame, but the company has since it has in fact been a cinema since 1916; released a statement saying that it has no its closure, should no unlikely eleventh- plans for expansion on ul. Św. Jana. hour reprieve become apparent, at the end Andrzej Kucharczyk, creator of the of April, comes just four years shy of its present day Kino ARS, expressed warm 100th anniversary. thanks to the army of fans and supporters Since the mid-1990s it has become a who had joined the campaign to keep byword for independent, international the cinema open. But, he said, there was films in Krakow, especially among those nothing more that could be done to save it. who prefer the romance of a traditional The rent rise, he said, was simply beyond cinema to the flash and glass multiplex the reach of the cinema’s resources. experience. Yet ARS has not neglected Magnanimous in defeat, Mr Kucharczyk viewers keen on the latest Hollywood urged supporters to avoid bitterness and blockbusters, regularly showing box ill-feeling, adding: “You cannot blame office smashes. Add to this the special anyone here. This is the market… and the events, such as New Year’s Eve movie owners responded according to economic marathons, visits by Oscar-winning stars calculations. ARS has always been a such as Morgan Freeman and more, and private cinema, neither the city nor the throw in the glorious choice of rooms – it state are responsible for it.” now boasts six – and it’s easy to see why But, Mr Kucharczyk also voiced his Kino ARS has earned a place in the hearts own sadness at the passing of Kino ARS, of around four million viewers who have saying: “It was never just a business, rather come through its doors since 1995. a passion, and not only my passion, but that The ethos of the cinema is, perhaps, best of the people who worked with me.” summed up in a few words, taken from Mr Kucharczyk met Jacek Majchrowski, the brief history of the cinema on the ARS Mayor of Krakow, to discuss the future of website. the cinema, in mid-April. Mr Kucharczyk “We had the courage to dream,” it reads. told Polish newspapers that the meeting “Thanks to everyone who helped us in had gone well, and that Mr Majchrowski this, and in the fulfilment of dreams, in had promised to try to help find a new life and on screen.” home for the cinema. However, no But this particular dream, it appears, is announcement had been made as of over. Kino Wanda closed in the late 1990s (Photo: David McGirr) RECIPES | REVIEWS | EVENTS | FASHION | SHOPPING | CINEMA | MORE 2 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com TUCK IN: Quiche with Asparagus and Smoked Salmon Rejoice! The vegetable aisle is getting a lot more colourful lately, and it’s Ingredients

right about now that we can dig in to 175g flour those delicious delights that show up 75g cold butter pinch of salt for a month and then disappear into a 3–5 tbsp cold water

sea of cabbage and potatoes. Green 220ml 30% śmietanka (cream) asparagus is a spring favourite, and this 3 eggs pinch of nutmeg quiche makes for a scrumptious and lemon zest from half a lemon luxurious way to make the most of it. pinch each of salt and pepper

Dana Dramowicz 8 stalks of large, green asparagus 1/2 sliced red onion Method: 175g smoked salmon The shortcrust pastry is by far the biggest pain of 2 tbsp chopped dill this whole procedure, a fact that usually relegates 50g Parmesan (or similar hard cheese) quiches, pies, and tarts to leisurely weekend cooking. If you’re lucky, you might find readymade pie or tart crusts, or frozen shortcrust pastry, in your local supermarket (double rejoice!). The first step is to make that lovely pastry, which admittedly takes more skill and caution photo:Mateusz Majewski than I usually care for (no approximations or improvisations here, sadly). Measure out 175g of mix everything together with your fingers. Add top with baking beans to weigh it down. Pop it in along with the red onion, salmon, dill, and half of flour into a large bowl (it helps to leave the bowl enough water to bind it all, knead it lightly a few the oven for 20 minutes, then remove the beans the Parmesan. Beat the eggs in a bowl, mixing in in the fridge for a while beforehand), cut the cold times, and squish the dough down into a disc. and paper and return to the oven for 5 more the cream, nutmeg, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. butter into cubes and throw them into the flour. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for minutes. Slowly pour the mixture into the crust and top with Add the salt. Using your fingertips, rub the cold half an hour. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Now for the filling. Snap off the ends of the the remainder of the cheese. Turn the oven down butter into the flour. Use a light touch – you don’t When the dough is rested, roll it out on a lightly asparagus and wash the stalks. Cut them in to 150°C and bake for 25 minutes, or until the want to hold the pieces of butter in your warm floured surface. Don’t roll too much – you don’t half and throw them in a pot of boiling water for quiche has set (meaning it doesn’t jiggle when you hands for any longer than necessary. The aim is want it too thin, and overworking shortcrust pastry a couple of minutes to blanche. Drain, and rinse touch the dish). Pair a generous slice with a glass to create a coarse powder (akin to breadcrumbs). is always bad news. Transfer it to a tart or flan dish, with cold water to stop the cooking process. of white wine and a side salad (rucola with lemon Incorporate a few tablespoons of cold water and cover with a piece of parchment baking paper, and Drop the cooked asparagus into the quiche shell, juice and olive oil is divine).

ul. Mackiewicza 14B. www.chinskipalac.krakow.pl DROP IN: Chinska Pałac Stuart Wadsworth

In the February issue of the Krakow Post I blithely inviting one to linger. a flavoursome delicacy, and the beef was subtle certainly no shortage of chili in the beef dish, which asserted that Krakow lacks half-decent Chinese The owner, Mr Tan Yaolin, divides his time and thinly sliced, almost melting in the mouth. Jing was my favourite of the lot. The fish, intricately woven cuisine. This month I am forced to eat my words – between his restaurants here, in Warsaw and Si prawns followed – tiger prawns battered in fried, pieces (presented with an artistically constructed awkwardly, with chopsticks. Chinska Pałac (China Vienna, and is circumspect about the restaurant’s grated potato, served with a delicate creamy sauce. bird carved from carrot), was also very tasty, and Palace), in the suburb of Biały Prądnik, has been in longevity. He says he just wants to provide quality This was also unusual and beautifully presented, the meatballs were crunchy and satisfying. Each business, in different forms and at various locations, food at affordable prices, but he acknowledges the and the tiger prawns were crunchy and delicious. dish was priced in the 25–35zł range – about 20% since 1993. For a restaurant with such vintage, it is dearth of quality Chinese eateries in Krakow: “It’s We also sampled the fried duck slices in sesame more than in your average Chinese eatery here. remarkably poorly known. The location is not ideal a shame, but most do cater to Polish tastes, and coating served with a chili-ginger dip. The duck Chinese staples such as stir fry, chow mein, chop – you need to hop on a tram to Krowodrza and get that means compromising on their food. We try not pieces were tenderly cooked and the dish was suey and fried rice are absent from the menu, and another bus if you want to avoid the taxi fare – but to do that.” His experienced chefs, imported from another superb starter. Altogether, these starters there is a lack of cashew nuts and water chestnut, it’s well worth the trek. restaurants back home, he says, are chosen above came to around 60zł. but it is clear that the Chinese food on offer here is The first thing that sets Chinska Pałac apart from Polish cooks for their commitment to preparing The wine list was perfunctory, but Chinese a cut above the rest in Krakow. The recent addition other restaurants of its ilk is its size – the main room authentic Chinese food. As we sat down, a dozen restaurants are hardly known for good wine, and of crispy duck and various types of dim sum to the is spacious, and there are a couple of side rooms satisfied-looking Chinese customers were on their there were a couple of tasty beers on offer. Our menu shows a commitment to authenticity and for parties – one with a revolving Chinese banquet way out – usually a very good sign. main courses were ‘chrysanthemum fish’ (fried and choice. The thoughtful touch of a fortune cookie table. The décor is pleasant, with traditional bucolic To start, we had a dish that I have definitely battered white fish in a sweet and sour sauce), beef rounded off the meal nicely. Mine said I would landscapes, statuettes of pot-bellied Buddhas, not seen before, in Poland or anywhere else – slices in a spicy Szechuan sauce with cabbage, soon make a chance discovery, which was a bit and photos of great and revered Chinese figures pickled eggs with marinated beef. It doesn’t sound and crispy pork meatballs. When I find dishes spicy previous given that I had found Chinska Pałac the past and present. It’s warm and welcoming, appetizing, but the dark, musky-tasting eggs were enough to choke on, I’m happy, and there was month before. www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | May 2012 3 KINO MANIA Go now! See it Solid If you must Avoid Droga na drugą stronę (Crulic - The Path to Beyond) 2011 The former prison director explained to me that this issue Directed by: Anca Damian was not important enough to

Giuseppe Sedia deserve my attention

“The former prison director explained to me that with the graphic journalism of Lebanese-Swiss this issue was not important enough to deserve cartoonist Chappatte than the genre’s landmark my attention,” said Krakow prison administrator Waltz with Bashir (2008) directed by Ari Folman. Zygmunt Lizak to local daily Gazeta Krakowska. Unlike Folman’s work, which is drawn, Damian has Polish and Romanian producers have come integrated images of real objects into the narrative together in this film to bluntly explain what was using decoupage, drawing and collage to boost important enough to deserve his attention – the the distancing effect. Dipped in a peculiar form of death of Claudiu Crulic. Droga na drugą stronę black humour à la Lucian Pintilie, which is indeed recounts the deadly hunger strike undertaken by a more Romanian than Polish, Droga na drugą 33-year-old Romanian citizen wrongfully accused stronę provokes the viewer with a set of anguished of theft in Krakow while travelling by bus to Italy. questions about Crulic’s ordeal. As in Waltz with Romanian cinéaste Anca Damian proves that Bashir, the director eventually jolts the viewer back animated documentaries should be regarded as to reality with the abrupt insertion of real footage in a genre in their own right. From a technical point the epilogue. Damian’s second full-length feature of view, Damian’s feature has more in common has, deservedly, been cherished across Europe. Wszystko płynie (Flowing) a smooth mix of fiction and 2011 Starring: Piotr Kamont documentary shot beside a river Directed by: Piotr Ivan Ivanov, Krzysztof has become a recipe for critical Dziomdziora acclaim at film festivals

Giuseppe Sedia

The ‘river movie’ genre may already have had its Prosiński this fluvial ode doesn’t feature too much moment of glory with the Golden Lion winning political pamphleteering about environmental Chinese masterpiece Still Life (2006) set along issues. As the original title suggests ‘everything the banks of the Yangtze. Apparently, a smooth flows’ for an amateur boatman who navigates mix of fiction and documentary shot beside a only for the pleasure of the experience. Despite river has become a recipe for critical acclaim at the fact that the fictional fragments do not always film festivals. Unfortunately, the Vistula is six times harmonise with the travel footage, the whole is shorter than the Yangtze and the disproportion nicely cemented together by a classy indie-folk between the budget of Wszystko płynie (2011) and soundtrack. The melancholic tunes of Polish Jia Zhangke’s masterpiece is even more extreme. breakthrough artists such as Adam Repucha A seasoned volunteer at the sole lifeguard station and Paula & Karol help and enhance the viewer’s on the Vistula claims that the Poles have turned journey through each scene. As a collage of their back on the Vistula, but Piotr Ivan Ivanov and visual impressions patiently assembled over two Krzysztof Dziomdziora seem content to wander years, Wszystko płynie may entice lovers of the its length uncritically. Filmed with dexterity by Jan documentary.

fitting backdrop for an elaborate plan to steal the representative of the growing stature of contemporary Vinci city’s greatest work of art. Polish cinema. 2004 Robert Więckiewicz, a frequent collaborator with Starring: Borys Szyc, Robert Więckiewicz, Machulski, delivers an understated performance as Kamila Baar, Tadeusz Hagen Cuma – a career criminal recently released from prison Directed by: Juliusz Machulski on fabricated claims of ill health. His motive all along James C Muus is to steal the cherished painting. Cuma’s partner, With the return of Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with Julian, played by Borys Szyc, has joined the police an Ermine to Krakow, local art lovers are eagerly during Cuma’s prison term, and is torn about joining awaiting a glimpse after her long, long trip abroad. his old friend for the job. Kamila Baar plays Magda, In the meantime, catch Vinci – a thriller that puts the a savvy art forger recruited by the two conmen, but famed work centre stage as the target of master unaware of their true intentions. The director’s father, criminals. Jan Machulski, gives a compelling performance as Vinci is less a crime-comedy and more a heist movie Tadeusz Hagen – Magda’s grandfather and mentor. with a sense of humour. The picture could have While most of the plot is focused on the team’s turned out formulaic under the guidance of a lesser intricate set-up, almost all of the suspense is reserved director, but Juliusz Machulski has struck a rare for the film’s climax. The ending is something of a balance between realistic dialogue and entertaining twist, although keen viewers might be able to see banter between his stars. He uses Krakow as a it coming. In general, Vinci is a worthwhile picture 4 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Exhibitions Film

Concerts

Theatre, Opera & Dance

Other Events

Living Gallery The Art of the Allotment Mirage Metropolis This is the latest in a cycle of exhibitions from the There is something quite primeval about the This is an exhibition that throws together two unique Part of Agrafka’s classic silent cycle, Metropolis National Museum, to be held at the Gallery of 20th acquisition of food and the bringing of life from the landscapes and philosophies, and then steps back has become something of a cult movie in the years Century Polish Art. It will feature the works of three soil. So, while hunters hunt and gatherers gather, to see what happens when they collide. Łukasz since its release in 1927. Made by Fritz Lang, and Krakow artists – Leszek Dutka, Walenty Gabrysiak it’s not surprising that the idea of ‘grow your own’ Jastrubczak leads visitors on a journey that takes written by Lang and his wife Thea von Harbou, it and Bogusław Szwacz. Dutka’s signature is surprise is still so deeply entrenched in the human psyche. in the Amazonian jungle and the barren desert of presents a view of a future where the intellectual – for the viewer – which is drawn largely from his This exhibition is the penultimate stage of a wide- the south-west USA. His attempt to balance the elite sit, quite literally, in their ivory towers, like the own curiosity about the world. The exhibition is a ranging project looking at the phenomenon from American Dream with the myths of South America gods of Olympus looking out over the lives of their rare chance to see previously unpublished work by an anthropological viewpoint, and is presented in lead to somewhat ironic results, reflecting the very minions, the working men and women. Music for Gabrysiak, while Szwacz’s contribution will include collaboration with a blog at www.dzielodzialka.eu. fragile nature of the goals and ideals to which we the two-hour screening will be provided live by his ‘My Life and The Ruins of Warsaw.’ It will come to an end later this year. are expected to subscribe. Piotr Bzowski and Friends. Where: National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 Where: Ethnographic Museum, Pl. Wolnica 1 Where: Bunkier Sztuki, pl. Szczepański 3a Where: Agrafka Cinema, ul. Krowoderska 8 When: Until June 10 When: Until October 21 When: Until May 6 When: May 8, 8pm.

Pop Art and Lucjan Mianowski Partiti Bestia 21 Rooms Little kino, big ideas “To be independent in life is impossible; to be Zbigniew Makowski’s work last graced Krakow’s There is something deeply disturbing about the idea An immediate hit on the movie scene in Krakow, independent in art – that’s my goal.” So wrote Zderzak gallery some four years ago, at the tender of a room that has been abandoned, but in which Kika is a tiny place that packs a big punch. There Lucjan Mianowski, the contemporary artist whose age of 78. Now the Warsaw-based surrealist is back nothing has changed since the last occupant left. are only 41 seats, but what this place lacks in work is the theme of this exhibition. In all, there will with a new collection that is anticipated to draw It is something that is found in the rooms of those stature it more than makes up for in prowess; cafe, be 140 samples of Mianowski’s images, spanning crowds similar to the thousands who attended back who do not know what became of a loved one, but bar, comfy sofas, state of the art equipment… a career of half a century. The artist was educated in 2008. The exhibition title says it all really – it is a who vowed to keep a little piece of home alive for and of course a range of the best arthouse films in Krakow and in Paris, where he encountered new reference to the words ‘Be gone, beast,’ shouted them – and is very close to this exhibition, focused available, all come together to create a new and European and American art – and developed a by Virgil in Dante’s epic poem Divine Comedy. In on hotel rooms, presented by Łukasz Biederman. impressive experience in an upcoming area of fascination with mass culture, especially sex and this vein, expect a weird and wonderful bestiary, all On the one hand, there is emptiness and cold, but Krakow that is really beginning to make a name for sport. from Makowski’s own frenzied imagination. on the other there is a sense of a quiet space. itself among tourists and locals alike. Where: National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 Where: Galeria Zderzak, ul. Floriańska 3 Where: Galeria Pauza, ul. Floriańska 18/3 Where: Kino Kika, ul. Krasickiego 18 When: Until June 3 When: Until May 12 When: Until May 15 When: Ongoing

Modernizm Rene Magritte and photography Two lands, two skies Jiro Dreams of Sushi Subtitled ‘Urban Planning, Architecture and Among the surrealists, Magritte was a character This exhibition of photographs showcases a Look out for this award-winning portrait of Interiors,’ this exhibition charts the history of the who stood out for his boldness and wit, challenging selection of the work of a Krakow-born photographer Japanese tradition and the search for perfection fabric of Nowa Huta between the years 1956 and the world to look again at what it thought it already who set out to document the relationship and when it hits Polish screens this month. With the 1970. This was a period that began with hope and knew. The photographs in this exhibition were differences between the two worlds of Poland and music of contemporary composer Philip Glass, it political change in Poland, thanks largely to the created between 1925 and 1955, and together Palestine. Ze’ev (Wilhelm) Aleksandrowicz was born is the tale of Jiro Ono, octogenarian owner of the death of Stalin. This was reflected in new Polish with movies they offer an insight into the private life in Krakow in 1905. His passion for photography smallest restaurant in the world. The prices can be attitudes to all manner of art – but in Nowa Huta of the artist, his family, and his friends. Presented in took him around the world, including three visits to high, and the waiting list long, but the diners keep especially, always a political melting pot set to boil collaboration with the Polish and Belgian Walloon Palestine in the 1930s. He died in Tel Aviv in 1992 coming to sample the delights of a legendary place over, it found new forms of expression. governments, and representatives of the French – and it would beanother 11 years before his life’s in downtown Tokyo. Where: Krakow City Museum, Nowa Huta branch, community of Belgium. work - 15,000 negatives - were discovered. os. Słoneczne 16 Where: MCK, Rynek Główny 25 Where: Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18 Where: Kino pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 When: Until June 1 When: Until June 10 When: Until July 31 When: From May 25

Sport in Art Bronisław Schönborn’s Krakow Crown Treasury and Armoury Pschoanalysing Film Following the success of History in Art, this exhibition Anyone who had been around Krakow in the Recently re-opened after refurbishment, this If you’ve ever wondered what exactly it was that takes a look at one of the other major influences 1940s-60s would have come across Bronisław exhibition is on the site of the former royal treasury. It was going through the minds of some of the great on our everyday lives. Through photography and Schönborn, an artist who made literally thousands was here that the trappings of Poland’s regal family directors, or what it was that screenwriters really installation, it attempts to uncover just how sport of pictures of the city, recording on paper what were stored, housing crowns, scepters, orbs and wanted to tell you, this monthly gathering at Kino can arouse such bestial passions at times, but most would consider quite ordinary facades. Now, all the ceremonial equipment used to raise princes Mikro could be right up your street. It’s led by has the power to calm and sedate at other times. much of his work is owned by the City of Krakow to kings. Among these is the most important and experts from the Krakow School of Psychotherapy, The central hypothesis seems to be that mankind Historical Museum, and there’s a chance to see symbolic artifact of all – the Szczerbiec sword used and includes screenings and discussion. Tickets needs to fight, to strive and triumph – and that, some of it at this exhibition. Look out especially for in the coronation of monarchs. Other artifacts have cost 10zł, and meetings are on the last Tuesday of as a species, we have found a way to do just that the pictures showing aspects of Krakow that have survived war, pillage and wanton vandalism – in every month, at 8pm. without risk of serious injury. since fallen to decay or development. much the same way as Poland itself. Where: MOCAK, ul. Lipowa 4 Where: Hipolit Townhouse, Pl. Mariacki 3 Where: Wawel Royal Castle Where: Kino Mikro, ul. J. Lea 5 When: From May 18 When: Until May 20 When: Permanent When: May 29 CULTURAL PARTNERS www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | May 2012 5

Metropolis Maria Sadowska Lucjan Mianowski: Head-head, 1968

Music is a Woman Days of Mendelssohn Halka Euroculture Quiz Maria Sadowska is an extremely talented young Presented by the Judaica Foundation, spanning This is the most famous of all Polish operas, Why did Julius Caesar wear a laurel wreath? Who lady. Singer, songwriter, producer, composer… nine days, and featuring performances of the pick though in other parts of the world it is somewhat lives in Europe’s smallest houses? Where is Europa she has been in the business since recording her of the works of Felix Mendelssohn, this festival will overshadowed by the Italians and Germans. island located? Where did Chopin spend his last first album at the age of 14. She is best known truly be a feast for classical music lovers. Overall, Which is a pity, because it’s also one of the most years? Discover the answers at the Euroculture for her slick combination of the poetry of Maria there will be eight concerts at the Centre of Jewish manageable operas – not over-long and with a Quiz night in Kazimierz. With great prizes on offer, Jasnorzewska with jazz and contemporary music, Culture, and an organ concert at the Dominican story that’s easy enough to follow, even if you know live music and more, the event is a chance to show and her talents have already earning her a gold Church in the city centre. Among the galaxy of no Polish. Composed by Stanisław Moniuszko, it’s off your knowledge of all things European, in the disc, not to mention several awards. Catch her at stars and groups due to perform are the Mariani the tragic tale of love and, ultimately, death (well, categories of music, films, history, gastronomy, EU Groteska in this one-off show for May. Klavierquartett, the Śląsk Quartet, Gabriel Chmura, aren’t they all). integration, culture and art . For more information Dmitri Eremin, Pablo Miro-Cortez, and more. and to register, visit euroculturekrakow.com. Where: Teatr Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 Where: Centre of Jewish Culture, ul. Meiselsa 17 Where: Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 Where: Magazyn Kultury, ul. Józefa 11 When: May 13 When: May 11–19 When: May 19, 20, 22 When: May 29

Choral Fantasy Music For Two Orchestras Romeo and Juliet Regional Products Fair It has been said that, of all the instruments in the Samuel Barber, Ralph Vaughan Williams and Bela Possibly the most romantic story in the world, Step away from the bars, the kebabs, the myriad orchestra, the human voice is perhaps the most Bartok may not be names that would normally broadcast live to Krakow from the second most museums and galleries and throngs of tourists for powerful and the widest ranging. You can find be found on a single concert programme, but romantic city in the world (Krakow, naturally being a couple of days, and visit this two-day regional out for yourself just how good choral music can Sinfonietta Krakowska have never been afraid to the first)… what combination could be better? product fair in nearby Kryspinów. What’s it all about? be at this concert, as the Krakow Philharmonic explore new presentations. Here, they bring together There is probably nobody in Europe who does not Everything traditional to Małopolska, from arts and Choir present a varied programme from the likes of the works of these composers, and have taken the know this tale of love thwarted by family ties and crafts to produce specific to the region’s towns and Sandström, Jennefelt, Pizzetti, Martin, Pałlasz and original step of splitting the performances between death – but this month there’s a chance to see it cities, and its historical and archaeological heritage. Małecki. They will be conducted on the evening by two conductors. Jerzy Maksymiuk will take the lead performed live on the big screen. The performance There will be dancing, competitions, displays of Jan Łukaszewski. for the Barber and Vaughan Williams section, then comes from the Opera National de Paris, and is part archery and other knightly pursuits, and much more Robert Kabara will take over for Bartok. of Kijów. Centrum’s cycle of live opera streamed to keep the whole family occupied. Where: Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 from around the world. Where: Kryspinów, near Krakow When: May 16 Where: Krakow Filharmonic, ul, Zwierzynicka 1 Where: Kijów.centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34 When: May 12–13 When: May 15, 7.30pm When: May 15 6 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

Krakow is an impressively photogenic city that also happens to host one of the major photography events in Europe – Krakow Photomonth (Miesiąc Fotografii w Krakowie). Practical Tips

This year marks the 10th Jubilee edition and takes place at venues across Krakow from May 17 to June 17. Here are a few tips on photography in general and photographing Krakow in particular The theme is ‘Join us’ (Dołącaz) and the organisers are extending an invitation to “Join us, celebrate our to help you capture the magic of the city. birthday, celebrate photography.”

Photomonth is organised by the Foundation for the Visual Arts. As well as producing festivals showcasing Tripods the best of world and Polish photography, one of the foundation’s goals is to preserve photographic archives Tripods are prohibited in some locations. Rest your camera against something solid, and that are at risk because they are not being properly cared for by any other society or institution. use the self-timer function, or invest in a small, flexible support that can wrap around any fixture. The aim is to acquire archives and then publish them, thereby creating a permanent national collection that documents the work of various Polish artists and the history of Polish photography. Photo tickets What is Krakow Photomonth? Some tourist sites, notably Mariacki Church and Krakow Photomonth has secured a place as one of the most respected photography events the Wieliczka salt mine, require photographers in Europe. The festival has grown from humble beginnings in 2002 and now attracts to buy an additional photo/video ticket (for major exhibitions from world famous practitioners while continuing to support and encourage young, home-grown photographers. 10zł). This is usually a sticker that should be worn in a conspicuous place to

The festival strives to be innovative and has a reputation for using fend off over-zealous security staff. interesting and unique public spaces, such as a former brewery, the Schindler Factory, public washhouses and private apartments, as well as more conventional exhibition spaces. No flash Flash photography is often As well as individual and collective exhibitions, banned in museums or the festival also features a wealth of places of worship. photography events including workshops, Use a high iso screenings, lectures and a portfolio revue. The and a slow shutter accompanying ‘ShowOff’ section spotlights ten speed. Take more than individual exhibitions selected by a jury from over 600 one photo in succession contenders. – the second or third shot will often be steadier. A free programme, in English and Polish, is available from the festival office, cafes and venues. The vast majority of the exhibitions are free, but a handful charge a nominal admission. Safety Krakow is a very safe city,

The main program includes exhibitions by the following but the usual common sense prestigious photographers. precautions should be taken. More details are available at www.photomonth.com. Never leave your kit unattended and always be aware of your

Sergey Bratkov surroundings if venturing out at night in ‘While Men Are at War’ less busy areas. Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4 Jason Evans ‘Pictures for looking at and sculpture for photography’ Association of Polish Art Photographers’ Gallery, ul. św. Tomasza 24 Photographing the locals

Jerzy Lewczyński Be polite and respectful. Don’t be the pushy tourist with a ‘Memory of the Image’ camera. Some people, usually the older generation, are less keen on being National Museum in Krakow, Main Building, al. 3. Maja 1 photographed. René Magritte ‘The Fidelity of Images: René Magritte and Photography’ International Cultural Centre (ICC), Rynek Główny 25

Sally Mann Explore ‘The Family and the Land’ Krakow is a wonderful location to photograph, but a lot of it is not immediately visible. Ethnographic Museum in Krakow, ul. Krakowska 46 Stray off the beaten track. Wander down alleys into passageways and hidden courtyards – Aleksander Rodchenko they are almost always public spaces despite appearances. ‘Revolution in Photography’ National Museum in Krakow, Main Building, al. 3. Maja 1

Viviane Sassen ‘Parasomnia’ Get in close Pauza Gallery, ul. Floriańska 18/5 Look up. Capture the detail in the architecture, the old glass street numbers, the ornate Liego Shiga portals and the stonework. ‘Canary’ Manggha Center of Japanese Art and Technology, ul. Konopnickiej 26

Cezary Pieczyński ‘Live Flesh’ Starmach Gallery, ul. Węgierska 5 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | May 2012 7

The Krakow Post’s there is no better time to enjoy resident photographer the delights of photographing David McGirr shares Krakow surrounded by some insights gained the inspiration of so many from 12 years of looking wonderful exhibitions. at the city through a lens. You can, of course, go for the I long ago stopped considering ‘postcard’ shots – Mariacki, myself a tourist, but I still the Sukiennice, Wawel, the photograph the obvious, A-list horse-drawn carriages in the locations almost weekly. It’s a square – but the exhibitors at compulsion – an addiction. Photomonth didn’t get there The city always looks beautiful by taking the same shots as through the lens. It’s like living with a supermodel – everyone else. Below is a list of novel locations to you might get used to her, sometimes irritated by help you squeeze the most out of your time here. her, but it is so tempting to whip out the camera for just one more shot. Don’t forget to submit your favourites to the Krakow Post, we would love to see your best pictures and As someone who is equally passionate about present them to our readers on our website or Photos: David McGirr Krakow and photography, I can assure you that in our pages

Krakow from Above turn left onto ul. Senacka to find a surprisingly quiet photo opportunities as well as a giddying array of shop window displays. corner of the Old Town. objects old, new, beautiful and hideous. Krakow looks good at ground level, but its true Photographer-friendly Places splendour is revealed from on high. There are Mały Rynek The Flea Market in and around Photography is a long-established and appreciated several places to get above those grand town The little cousin of the grand Rynek Główny, the Hale Targowe art form in Krakow. Here is a handful of places houses for a new point of view. Mały Rynek (Little Square) is often overlooked even (ul. Grzegórzecka). where you’re bound to find like-minded souls. though it’s just around the corner. Academy of Music Stary Kleparz (Rynek Kleparski) and The Museum of the History of Photography (Akademia Muzyczna), ul. Tomasza 43 Along the Vistula Nowy Kleparz (ul. Długa) (Muzeum Historii Fotografii), ul. Jozefitow 16 (www. Take the lift to the rooftop cafe for splendid views Start in front of the Sheraton Hotel and head Two busy places to taste real Krakow life. mhf.krakow.pl). over the city’s rooftops. Free downstream to the startlingly modern footbridge that links two of Krakow’s most historical districts, Second Hand Clothes Market Pauza Café (ul. Floriańska 18) hosts great exhibitions Krakow Balloon Kazimierz and Podgórze. Plac Nowy, Sunday mornings. in the main bar and in their upstairs gallery. Most Gunwaldzki Better still, they have a great selection of quality A 10-minute flight in a tethered balloon to an Explore Kazimierz international photography magazines on the bar. altitude of 186m provides panoramic views of The former Jewish district of Krakow has been Street Photography Krakow and far beyond. 38zł (9am–8pm) reinvented as one of the trendiest parts of the city. If snapping people on the street is your thing, Krakow once had many Foto Komis – shops selling The interiors of cafes such as Alchemia, Singer, you will not be disappointed. Krakow is alive with a huge variety of vintage or second-hand cameras – Jubilat Roof Terrace, Mleczarnia and Eszeweria are fabulous examples of opportunities for candid shots –street performers, where you could pick up a bargain. One of the few Al. Krasińskiego 1 ‘shabby chic.’ kids chasing pigeons, chess players by the river, survivors can be found at ul. Zwierzyniecka 16. There is a choice of rooftop cafes on the roof of sleeping drunks on the Planty or a thousand other the Jubilat department store with views across the Explore Podgórze eccentric characters. Foto-Bielec (Pl. Inwalidów 6) is a traditional Vistula to Wawel. Browse the department store itself Cross the new footbridge to find atmospheric photographers dating from 1938, where they for a shopping experience from days gone by. Free and evocative Podgórze. Don’t be put off by the still use wooden box cameras and traditional crumbling facades, a legacy of decades of neglect. Social/Documentary techniques. In 1938 they photographed a 19-year- St Mary’s Basilica Tower Podgórze was the site of the Jewish Ghetto and Seek out aspects of Krakow life that are slowly old student who later became Pope John Paul II. Rynek Główny this is where you can find highlights such as a disappearing – the kiosks, the pretzel (obwarzanki) The image is now internationally famous. Climb the 239 steps to 51m above Rynek Główny fragment of the ghetto wall (ul. Lwowska), the sellers, the Communist-era buildings, and quirky and look down on the hustle and bustle below. former Schindler Factory, now a museum, and its Time your visit to reach the top on the hour and near neighbour the Museum of Contemporary Art witness the Hejnał bugle call up close. 6zł Krakow.

Photo Walks The Mounds A selection of routes that take in less obvious, but Four man-made mounds (kopiec) surround the city. highly photogenic, sides of the city. Kopiec Kościuszki is the best known, dominating the skyline above Błonia and providing fine views The Planty across the city and to the distant mountains. Less A ring of parkland surrounding the Old Town, well known, but well worth seeking out, is Kopiec formerly a moat, that is a welcome escape from Krakusa. Located on the edge of Podgórze between the busy centre and features numerous photo the former Ghetto and the site of the Płaszów opportunities. concentration camp, it is much smaller than Kopiec Kościuszki, but more than a thousand years older. Ul. Kanonicza Widely agreed to be the prettiest of Krakow’s streets, ul. Kanonicza leads from Wawel castle towards the Markets Rynek Główny. Rather than following the crowds, Krakow has many open-air markets stocked with 8 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com SHOPAHOLIC Krakow for Kids: Garden of Experiences Lulu Living ul. Tomasza 28. www.lululiving.pl Karina Grolewska | krakow-kids.blogspot.com

If the hassle of the Galeria is too much, there dramatic chandeliers and sofas. This is a place is a way to slow down and shop in style right in where you can take your time choosing a piece the heart of town. Escape the bustle by taking that will lift your room, from the ordinary to the yourself to the Lulu Living Concept store on ul. extraordinary. św. Tomasza. My eye was caught by the unusual candles, As you approach the attractive gates the especially the ones crafted into beautiful replicas atmosphere begins to calm down, and walking of orchids – perfect for floating in a glass bowl into the courtyard is like stepping into another as the centrepiece of a dinner table. There are world. Not quite the same one as in years gone also fun wax hyacinths and artichokes, good by, when this building was a notorious brothel. for brightening a kitchen. Some of the more The shop is on the first floor and going inside modern designs can be found in the bright is like stepping into a fine palace full of beautiful cushions piled onto couches and chairs. things to enhance your home. The wares on When you’re done, stay awhile, buy a coffee offer include pieces of vintage furniture such and browse through the design magazines. It’s

as decked drinks trolleys, lamps, shades, a world to take into your home. Chris Riley

Photo: Karina Grolewska

The Garden of Experiences (Ogród Doświadczeń) is an open-air, hands-on education exhibition where kids play and learn about physics. It covers an area of six hectares within the Park Lotników Polskich (Polish Pilots’ Park). There are about 70 experimental exhibits in the garden, from a giant kaleidoscope to a model of the Solar system to magic glass, all designed to stimulate the imagination of the garden’s youngest visitors. Where: Al. Pokoju 68, Krakow. Parking: Free street parking. You can also park at the nearby CH M1 shopping centre. Tram stop: From the city centre, take trams 1, 14 or 22 and get off at the M1 Aleja Pokoju stop. Pushchair/wheelchair access: Yes. Hours: Mon–Fri 8:30am – 7pm, Weekends 10:00am – 7pm. Price/discounts: Cash only. Regular ticket – 8zł. Students, seniors – 5,50zł. Kids under 7 – free. Birthday parties – 3 hours/23zł per child. Toilets: Yes. English speaking: Yes. Website: www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl

Organizer: THE JUDAICA FOUNDATION – Center for Jewish Culture Co-organizers:

City of Krakow Krakow Foundation www.krakow.pl for Social Communication

Partners:

THE SHARMA&IRVING FRANK FOUNDATION

Towarzystwo Niemiecko-Polskie w Getyndze

Media:

Współpraca redakcyjna

e Judaica Foundation - Center for Jewish Culture, Krakow, www.judaica.pl

www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post | May 2012 9

Daniel Drumz & Galus 11.05 Alchemia, Estery 5 7 tagged: hip-hop, funk, electronic Two of Poland’s best representatives in the genre of new generation hip-hop beats come together tonight in Krakow’s Alchemia to perform live. Daniel Drumz has been a permanent fixture on the Krakow scene for over 10 years now, from his first performances as a turntablist to today, hosting the Electric Relaxation Show on Radiofonia. Galus, on the other hand, life marked his spot in the Polish music scene most definitively in 2011, with the release of his critically acclaimed album for U Know Me records - Futura. Supporting are DJs Senor Soul and Rewelacyjny Luciano. Daniel Drumz

Blackbird Blackbird 20.05 Planningtorock 19.05 Tarwater 21.04 Rozrywki Trzy, Mikołajska 3 Klub RE, św. Krzyża 4 tagged: synth-pop, lo-fi, electronic Fabryka, Zabłocie 23 tagged: indietronica, post-rock tagged: performance, electronic, pop, experimental Tarwater is Bernd Jestram and Ronald Lippok, Once in a while an artist comes along, that, Some lovely atmospheric pop music is coming a duo based out of Berlin, Germany. Since their through their utter originality, defies all attempts at our way this month courtesy of multi-talented San beginnings in 1996, Tarwater has recorded an explanation, particularly through words on paper. By Francisco artist Mikey Maramag AKA Blackbird impressive 11 studio albums on labels like Kitty-Yo, combining elements of performance art, chamber Blackbird, performing in Krakow this month as Morr Music, and even Polish indie label Gusstaff, pop, weird electronica, and vocal twists and turns, part of his European tour. Layering lo-fi beats with which released two albums by the group in 2007 Planningtorock is simply unique. With releases on sparkling electronic textures and vocal harmonies, and 2009. Most recently, Jestram and Lippok (who Chicks On Speed Records and DFA, Planningtorock Blackbird Blackbird is the happy, pretentious-less also records with To Rococo Rot), released Inside continues to make a name for herself through cousin of hip-to-the-bone American chillwave. the Ships, continuing their sonic explorations in projects like her recent collaboration with The Knife Check out the artist’s Bandcamp page for lots of restrained indie-electronica. Combining electronics, and Mt. Sims in the science-opera “Tomorrow, In free downloads and previews of material new and live instruments, and improvisation, Tarwater’s live A Year”. Experience Planningtorock for yourself at old at blackbirdblackbird.bandcamp.com performances are always a treat. Fabryka this month - tickets are 69 złoty.

Nadja 23.05

Alchemia, Estery 5 tagged: ambient, drone-doom, ambient-doom Hailing from Toronto, Canada and currently based in Berlin, Nadja is a partnership between musicians Aidan Baker and Leah Buckareff. Transforming live instruments such as bass and guitar through heavy delays, distortion, and filters, Nadja create Tarwater dark ambient soundscapes as can be heard their numerous recordings for labels like Alien8 Recordings. Also performing: French sound artist Mathias Delplanque and Polish experimental performers Arrm and Kepa Yew & Dorota Mortek. Advance tickets available at Alchemia for 20 PLN, Planningtorock Nadja rising to 30 PLN on the day of the concert.

Green ZOO Festival 23-26.05 More... Across Krakow tagged: indie, folk, pop, electronic 07.05 / Thin Lizzy at Klub Studio After a successful first edition in 2011 (headlined by 08.05 / Basketball at Klub RE Basia Bulat), Green ZOO returns bigger and better this year with concerts, talks, and workshops taking 11.05 / Vladimirska + Ashia & the Bison Rouge place in venues across Krakow. Lovingly curated by at Magazyn Kultury local promoters Front Row Heroes, Green ZOO’s 12.05 / Bee and Flower at Klub RE guests include an exciting array of international artists 14.05 / The Ex at Manggha playing anything from post-punk to experimental folk. This year’s programme includes: Ben Caplan, 14.05 / Immanu El at Rozrywki Trzy Lower Dens, Moonface (the latest project of Wolf 19.05 / Rooftop Party at Zielone Tarasy Parade and Sunset Rubdown’s Spencer Krug), Katie Moore, Molly Nilsson, Socalled, Swearing 22.05 / Parov Stelar Band at Klub Studio at Motorists, Jason Urick, and VUK. More info at Ben Caplan 28.05 / Jacaszek at Alchemia greenzoofestival.pl

Juwenalia > May Across Krakow when students are let loose across Poland for a bit Modestep, but let’s face it, noisy dubstep is the music tagged: students, alcohol, predictable rock bands of fun before exams. So, without further ado, here grown-ups don’t understand and that’s exactly what is part of the predictable, crusty old line-up of artists students are supposed to listen to. Of course, there’s It’s that time of the year again, folks. The powers that performing at the many Juwenalia events across absolutely nothing wrong with the guardians of Polish be have once again forced me to write my annual Krakow: Hey, Apocalyptica, Dżem, Illusion, Lipali, rock performing, but booking them all in one go, every spiel about the copy-pasted line-up of every single Maciej Maleńczuk, Frontside, Coma, Vavamuffin, Kult, single year, makes it all look careless and desperately Juwenalia that has possibly ever been and will possibly happysad, Myslovitz, IRA, Grzegorz Turnau, Lao Che, out of touch - as if Poland hasn’t produced any new ever be. For those not in the know, Juwenalia is an Strachy Na Lachy, Zakopower. As usual, the Niepokorni talent for the last 10-20 years (which, I think we can annual springtime affair held in cities across Poland, stage is a bright spot in a dark, dark place, with all heartily agree, it has). On the other hand, attending when students take over the city with outdoor concerts interesting, young acts like Hatifnats and Dagadana on Juwenalia concerts is like jumping into a crash course (either free or cheap), film screenings, workshops, the menu. Another welcome breather comes courtesy of Polish music history. Pick your poison and let’s rock outdoor excursions, DJ parties, and sports events. of the University of Economics’ events. I never thought this month out as best we can. More information at Juwenalia isn’t a single event - it’s just a time of year I would commend someone for booking British act krakow.dlastudenta.pl/juwenalia 10 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

Photo: David McGirr in association with: Galeria Kazimierz

These are tricky times – one minute it’s warm, then it’s cold, then its warm again. The seasons are on the cusp and nothing is certain in this era of climate change. Hopefully, though, we are heading towards a warm and sunny summer. But until we get there, we are faced with a sartorial challenge. Fear not – anything is possible in the world of fashion. Just take a look at our RÓG BRACKIEJ I REFORMACKIEJ super chic in-betweeners, effortlessly

If I were a satirist, I might make a clever play a small lapse of attention to add a fifteenth – juggling style and practicality and on ul. Reformacka as a metaphor for Poland. The Mourners Pop in for a Quick Zywiec. incorporating colours that hint One side is dominated by the ancient walls of The clue to this flagrant myth-busting at sunnier times ahead. a Catholic monastery. The doors of its chapel may lay in the bar’s name: Róg Brackiej i spill bells, smells and intonements onto the Reformackiej means ‘At the junction of Bracka pavement. Opposite is a soup kitchen, the and Reformacka streets’ – two thoroughfares local headquarters of Solidarność, an office of on opposite sides of the Old Town that do not the Institute of National Remembrance (motto: and have never intersected. It’s a reference to ‘Prosecuting crimes against the Polish nation’) an old joke, or figure of speech, in which you – and a bar. make it clear to someone that you don’t want There’s an urban myth in Poland that it’s illegal to meet them by arranging to do so at a non- to sell alcohol within 100m of a church (or 500m, existent place. For example: “Of course I’d like or whatever other number seems outrageous). to see you when you’re in town Uncle Jan – let’s You almost always hear this myth recounted by meet on the corner of Bracka and Reformacka. a person with a drink in his hand standing in How’s 70 past 9 for you?” a bar in Krakow. The twin considerations that Given the rich web of cultural considerations Krakow has the highest concentration of bars surrounding Róg Brackiej i Reformackiej in Europe and a concentration of churches it almost doesn’t matter what the place is which means that nothing at all is more than like. It’s a bonus that it turns out to be good. 100m from one or other of them rarely seem Notice I say ‘good’ rather than ‘nice,’ because to register. it definitely isn’t nice, or trendy, or enchanting. Róg Brackiej i Reformackiej is considerably Forced to choose adjectives, I would go with less that 100m from the nearest church. It’s so ‘lively,’ ‘relaxed’ and ‘shabby’ – the good kind close that, parading the 14 Stations of the Cross of shabby, not the artfully reconstructed gothic in the yard across the road, it would require only kind that haunts Kazimierz.

L V E There is no way around L F E suffering Dear Dr. Ovlowska, the natural next step that teaches us to grow. It is our I work for a big international company and really responsibility to accept others as they are. And if we enjoy both my free time and the club life in Krakow. learn each time we get hurt, we become wiser and all Martyna Wilde I also enjoy the easy sex one can have with Polish the more valuable. There is no way around suffering, guys. I don’t want to fall in love, because I know I will only through it. have to leave sometime, maybe soon. But one guy It is, of course, both exhausting and painful when So how do the seasons work in the fashion insisted on wooing me. After months of resisting, I the fighting begins. She screams and hurls plates fell for him. He’s a great lover and a fun person to at him, caring neither about him nor the price of world? They seem to be as mixed up and spend time with. I never feel judged for my curves or porcelain. He stays at work for long hours, conducting confused as our climate. occasionally looking tired. He’s never jealous, just an an affair with a co-worker or his laptop. easy-going, open-minded type. But precisely when Not a pretty picture, and the early signs of what The fashion calendar is divided into two I admitted that I cared for him, he disappeared. He could turn into a broken marriage. In a way, you should does not answer my calls. I’m devastated. count yourself lucky. You’re having the experience major seasons: Autumn/ Winter and Spring/ now, and not three years after your wedding or the Summer – at least that’s how it used to be. Dear Devastated, birth of your second child. For some time now, there have also been inter- Love him if he comes back, love him if he does Maybe your mission in Krakow will come to not – there is nothing you can or should do to try to an end soon, and your problem will be solved by seasonal collections as well. To confuse matters influence his behaviour. We can’t terrorise or make circumstances. Continue the easy superficial sex, even more, Spring/Summer collections are others feel guilty, and be loved by them at the same and you will be fine. If you have courage though, you shown throughout September and November time. will try to get to the root of your devastation. You will Lovers often behave like magnets. At first they find it within yourself, and you don’t need either a and Autumn/Winter collections are usually are irresistibly attracted to each other, but later the Polish lover or to be in Krakow to do that work. presented in February and March. polarity can flip so they push away, maintaining a You are always welcome to contact me for a Until summer proper arrives, take your constant distance at all times. conversation. This change happens precisely at the moment you I wish you much luck, strength and wisdom. inspiration from Krakow’s ever-stylish ladies describe – the moment you surrender. “Why?” you and perform your own balancing act to create cry. “Why does it have to be like that?” Because it is Yours Dr. Ovlowska a unique in-betweener look.

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You choose! www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | May 2012 7 Photo of the Month

Krakow by Lomo (Agnieszka Karpierz) 8 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com

ASTRO SELTZER

TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) Lately, you’ve been feeling that people are trying to take advantage of you. They may not be; perhaps they’re mistaking your silence for agreement. If you’ve been feeling grumpy, you should stay away from more sensitive souls until you’re back to your jolly old self.

GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) PISCES (FEB 19 - MAR 19) If you’re a good sport and take You’ll be indulging in some You may be a bit overwhelmed Knowing what you want is a care of all the details, there could serious, alliance building this at present. Too many details constant challenge for you. be a lovely surprise for you in the month. Trying to develop a to get through and not enough Once you’ve put a name to your next few weeks. Your natural, easy strong inner circle isn’t as easy help has started to take a toll on heart’s desire, you have no trouble charm could be the foundation as you think You must be clear your delicate nervous system. manifesting it. This month, you’ll on which you make some serious money. People about what you’re willing to do: some people insist Things promise to lighten up by month’s end when be forced to confront other people’s unimaginative are growing weary of crackpots and cranky on the mile when only the inch has been offered. a concerned friend gives you some invaluable assumptions of what’s good for you. malcontents: you could end up being the poster Professionally, things are looking bright. On the pointers on how to simplify your life. child for an upsurge of positive thinking. romantic front, however, you’ve been less than ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) emotionally accessible. CAPRICORN (DEC 21 - JAN 19) Be careful who you confide in CANCER (Jun 21 - Jul 22) This month, you’ll be feeling – thinking out loud could lead You’re back to plotting and LIBRA (Sep 23-Oct 22) energised and rejuvenated. to disaster this month. You’re planning. Things have been Your sense of humour and refusal Looking and feeling younger, basically an innocent at heart, going well but, as you know, to be defeated will serve you well you’ll impress people with taking people at face value. nothing lasts forever. More close- this month. Life has become a bit your uncontained zest for Unfortunately, those around you could infer darker mouthed than usual about what of a grind with people spouting life. Supported by people who appreciate your meanings from your mostly ingenuous musings. you’re up to, friends and family could worry that the same old complaints. dedication and responsible behaviour, you’ll soon This is a gossipy time: people are a bit on edge and you’re depressed. No way! You’re merely being Essentially optimistic, you’ll do your best to ignore be making plans for a major change in your life that no longer know which way is up. strategically secretive. negative types and seek refuge in your own rose- you have been quietly planning. tinted world. What people call being realistic is often Written by Kerwin McLeister nothing more than lack of creativity. LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) AQUARIUS (JAN 20 - FEB 18) The Krakow Post’s astrology You’re yearning to be on firmer With too much work and more column is for entertainment ground. Lately, you’ve been a bit SCORPIO (Oct 23-Nov 21) deadlines than you’d like, you’ve purposes only, and the Post is not responsible for any conse- at sea, unsure what people want You’re on fire with great ideas. This been burning the candle at both quences incurred as a result of from you. It’s not really about you is a busy time of the year, with the ends. People in authority are this column. at all. Your nearest and dearest spotlight on you. By the month’s promising you things you consider are currently a bit directionless and not sure how end, you’ll be back at the factory, too good to be true. Don’t think about it! Doing they feel about anything. Things will be better by getting down to the nitty-gritty of so could interfere with the magnificent energy the end of the month when friends express how daily business. In the meantime, have as much fun surrounding you. By the end of the month, you’ll be important you are to them. as humanly possible. engaged in a creative project. Modern University with rich Tales from the chalkface tradition Crime and Punishment Chris Riley

It’s okay, I’m not about to launch into the In reality, a teacher’s armoury of Personally, I dislike having to enforce first chapter of my own version of a Russian enforcement is limited. The obvious discipline and hope that order will novel. Instead, I’ve been considering one weapon of giving an after-lesson arise from good will and good humour. of the teacher’s less pleasant roles: how detention is often a self-punishment Fortunately, this is true for everyone in to respond to the unwilling learner. This since it takes up the teacher’s time as my current school – hence the rarity of came about because I did something last effectively as the miscreant’s. It can be handing out punishments. Full time and part time week I hadn’t done for a very long time effective on a practical level, if it can be One colleague from many years ago Bachelor ’s and Master ’s studies – I gave one of my students lines. Apart used to catch up on that homework that had a novel way of getting students Postgraduate studies, from Bart in the opening credits of The hasn’t been handed in, but as a way of to remember not to make particular including MBA Doctoral studies Simpsons, I can’t think of anyone who changing attitudes, it’s a dead loss – and mistakes. His bugbear was the conjoining has to write lines, or of many teachers it’s attitudes that make the difference. of the words ‘a lot’ to make the nonsense Majors dElivErEd in English: who give them nowadays. Mine weren’t word ‘alot.’ Having pointed out the error witty or long, just a message to reinforce once, if it occurred again, as it often did, BSc, Msc International Business BSc Corporate Finance and Accounting a point… or not, as the case may be. he would take the paper, or worse still, BSc Applied Informatics The received wisdom in teaching is the exercise book, and publicly cut each Doctoral Studies in Economics that one should always be ‘firm but offending ‘alot’ into two separate words Finance and Management fair,’ though one teacher’s ‘firmness’ with a pair of scissors, thereby destroying can be another’s ‘strict to the point of much hard labour in the process. This CUE comprises four faculties offering 17 majors : irrationality.’ Of course, praise is better public execution of essays caused cries . Faculty of Economics and International Rela- than blame, and in an ideal world, the of woe from the offenders, but nobody tions teacher-student relationship should be who saw it ever did it again. This teacher . Faculty of Finance harmonious since we’re all working was a young, energetic Irishman, loved . Faculty of Commodity Science . Faculty of Management together for the same thing… aren’t we? for his daft jokes and enthusiasm. He Well, that depends. A teacher’s aim as could do outrageous things and get away www.uek.krakow.pl written in their plan, to revise the past with them. I’m not an advocate of cutting perfect for example, may not coincide up student’s work, nor do I advocate with a student’s plan, which could be to capital punishment… I mean ‘corporal’ get through the lesson without admitting punishment – that was just an innocent he didn’t do last week’s homework. slip. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | May 2012 9

Set by KC CRYPTIC CROSSWORD ACROSS DOWN 1, 16 PL (7, 7) see EN 8 1 Code for the fastener? (3) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 4 Howls at midnight bird (3) 2 Obvious when on drink (5) 6 Dorothy’s short, just a speck (3) 3 Emotional, mawkish and oversensitive at 8 Holiday spent around rugged French coast first (3) (9) 8 9 10 4 Group’s about to, etc… (5) 10 He’s gray – not good, but bright (3) 5 English Góral’s about to make a slow move- 11, 6d Holiday for scant nudity too, I suspect ment (5) (12,3) 6 See 11ac, 22ac 11 12 13 14, 31 Chap almost dances twice (3-3) 7 See 18d 16 See 1a 9 She’s relatively caring, either way (3) 19 Throws in penny for your good fortune? (4- 11 The first steps of contamination from chlo- 6) 14 15 16 17 rine are pollution (1,1,1) 20 The answer’s repeated (4) 12 Lock up playwright who loses head (5) 18 22, 6d Holiday help for one day of 24ac? (3,3) 13 Heard one in nose? (5) 24 PL – Spanning EN 22ac/6d-11ac/6d(7) 15 Sails, loses ship, becomes sick (3) 19 20 21 27 Pig looms in ice house (5) 17 Saw back in the past (3) 28 Queen overcame palace rot (9) 18, 30, 7, 26 PL (6, 11, 9, 4) See EN 11ac, 6d

30 See 18d 19 Type of speed, in brief (1,1,1) 31 See 14 21 Erratic coca hit’s confusing (7) 22 23 24 25 23 Almost Christmas – get an oriental tree (5) 26 24 Short raincoat (3) 25 Stalin’s uncle’s an ordinary man (3) 27 28 29 26 See 18 27 About the family writer (3) 28 Letter enclosed is posted back (3) 30 31

CONFUSED? SOLUTIONS

A cryptic crossword is a series of puzzles, which must each be solved in order to reach the solution.

For example – the clue for 10 across is ‘He’s gray, – not good, but bright’. Gray without good (G) leaves Psi 29 Ink 27 Maja 26 Joe 25 Mac 24 Yulan 23 Chaotic 21 WPM 19 Święto

you with ray – which can be bright. 18 Was 17 Ail 15 Noise 13 Inter 12 CFC 11 Nan 9 Trzeciego 7 Day 6 Largo 5 Octet 4 Emo 3 Overt 2 Zip 1

Some answers are in Polish, and share a common theme this month. They are highlighted with PL and DOWN

refer to the English versions of the answers, which are also contained within the puzzle. Cha 31 Konstytucji 30 Cleopatra 28 Igloo 27 Majówka 24 May

1 Zielone 4 Owl 6 Dot 8 Pentecost 10 Ray 11 Constitution 14 cha 16 Świątki 19 Well-Wisher 20 Echo 22 22 Echo 20 Well-Wisher 19 Świątki 16 cha 14 Constitution 11 Ray 10 Pentecost 8 Dot 6 Owl 4 Zielone 1 ACROSS

52nd Krakow Film Festival WRITTEN IN STONE How did Krakow react? Pyjas’ supporters held a Black March in Krakow – and this was repeated in many other Polish cities. Pyjas’ death was also the trigger for the formation of the Student Committee of Solidarity (Studencki Komitet Solidarności). The SKS included many people still active in post- transformation politics in Poland – among them, the current Prime Minister Donald Tusk. The plot thickens… There is a peculiar twist in this particular tale. One Stanisław Pietraszka , a physics student, close friend of Pyjas, and the last person to see him alive, gave the authorities a description of Pyjas’ possible murderer. Two months later, Now here’s a challenge... try to catch all 250 movies Pietraszka’s body was pulled from Lake Solina in on at this year’s Krakow Film Festival. the Bieszczady Mountains. To his friends, this was The festival lasts seven days, from May 28, and is In Brief: Blink and you’d miss it. The memorial anything but an accident – they said he suffered expected to feature at least 500 directors, producers plaque to Stanisław Pyjas is a simple affair on the from a deep fear of water and would never have and more, from Poland and around the world. side of a building at ul. Szewska 7. gone swimming. It is one of Europe’s oldest film events dedicated to What’s it for? An economics student at the Curiouser and curiouser… Although public documentary, animation and short film, and regularly Jagiellonian University, Stanisław Pyjas died aged opinion leans strongly towards the theory that draws fans from across the continent - not to mention 24, in mysterious circumstances. His battered Pyjas was murdered by the authorities, there is still those who make the trip from further afield. body, described in the official report as having ‘long a question of who actually carried out the killing For the viewers, it’s a chance to see some cutting hair and beard, and clad in brown shoes, a yellow on their behalf. Enter Marian Weclewicz, a boxer edge documentary, genre-busting fiction and shirt, and thick cotton trousers,’ was found on a and alcoholic renowned for being as free with his imaginative animation. For the film-makers involved, staircase in the building on which the plaque was fists in bars as he was in the ring. Weclewicz was there’s even more at stake... the competitive later erected. named by the Prosecutor in Krakow, in 1993, as a element. Why the mystery? Pyjas was a vocal and active suspect. Evidence suggested he had been paid 20 Each year since 1998, the festival judges have anti-communist – not a safe activity in 1970s Poland. US dollars to kill Pyjas. But Weclewicz could not be awarded the Dragon of Dragons, amongst other The official investigation at the time declared that brought to trial… for he too died just a few months titles, to the creme of the festival creme. The awards his death was due to a fall whilst drunk, and the after Pyjas. Was his fall from the fourth storey of a at Krakow are important, because the festival results of a post-mortem examination following the Krakow building a drunken accident, or something is AMPAS (The Academy of Motion Picture Arts exhumation of his body in 2011 found no evidence more sinister? and Sciences) and EFA (European Film Academy) of foul play. However, nobody is sure exactly how he Bookend biography: Stanisław Pyjas. Born, accredited - meaning the winner of the International met his end. A theory still debated in Poland is that August 4, 1952, Gilowice, Żywiec. Died May 7, Short Film Award can submit their film to the Oscar he was killed by the secret police. 1977, Krakow. competition list. 10 Krakow Post | May 2012 www.krakowpost.com SPORT SPORT IN BRIEF Ruch edges Wisła in cup semi-finals Radwanśka ousts Sharapova Agnieszka Radwańska has won the most prestigious title of her tennis career thus far, defeating Maria Sharapova 7–5, 6–4 in the final of the Sony Ericsson Open in Mi- ami for the 9th singles trophy in the WTA. Following her victory, Radwańska returned home to Krakow for a three-week break as the clay-court season begins. She remains 4th in the latest world rankings.

Polish hockey team stunned by loss Poland entered the IIHF Division 1B tour- nament poised to advance one division for next year’s competition, but a shocking loss to South Korea ruined the national team’s hopes of promotion. Poland and South Korea each entered the final game with 4-0 records while the Poles had home support on their side in Krynica. After tak- ing an early 2-0 lead, Poland appeared destined to win the group, but the visitors fought back with a goal in each period while keeping the Polish offence at bay. The Koreans scored the winning goal with 8:21 remaining in regulation time and Po- land were unable to equalise during the Photo: Krzysztof Jakub Porębski 6-on-5 in the waning seconds.

Wisła Can-Pack halfway to Polish title Wisła Krakow’s quest to qualify for next minute, which was disallowed without moments for Wisła, Patryk Małecki’s Wisła Can-Pack has defeated rival CCC season’s Europa League is all but over after any clear explanation. The home side were pass (aided by a possible Ruch deflection) Polkowice in the first two games of the a bitter loss to Ruch Chorzów in a match partially redeemed moments later when found Genkov for a point-blank header in best-of-seven finals of the Polish Women’s that went the distance and beyond. After the referee awarded a penalty after Ruch the 90th minute to force extra time and Basketball League. Wisła claimed 73-59 120 minutes of exciting football and seven defender Gábor Straka tripped Ivica Iliev. the eventual penalty shootout to decide and 72-60 wins on consecutive nights in rounds of penalties, the visitors from Tsvetan Genkov calmly put the ball in the which club would advance. Krakow. Anke de Mondt led the way with a combined 30 points. Wisła can now claim Chorzów ultimately earned the right to net to open the night’s scoring in the 22nd Pressure mounted when David Biton’s the league title with two more victories play in the Polish Cup final. minute. shot was saved by Matko Perdijić, but in Polkowice. If necessary, Game 5 of the Wisła now faces the longest odds of Wisła doubled their advantage for the following a Ruch miss, the teams were series will be in Krakow on May 1. attaining UEFA qualification with the night when Maor Melikson controlled a again level with four goals apeice after club sitting 7th place in the Ekstraklasa long-distance upfield pass from keeper the usual five attempts. Genkov’s shot €3.75 million incentive for Euro 2012 table just one year removed from a league Sergei Pareiko and slipped the ball in from was saved on his initial attempt in the The Polish Football Association has decid- ed on the value of bonuses owed to play- championship. a difficult angle right of the goal to give 5th round, but he was given another ers, according to their performance at Wisła and Ruch each managed 3–1 the White Star a 2–0 lead for the night. opportunity after Perdijić was ruled out the upcoming Euro 2012 tournament. The wins at home to force the deciding match With the score 3–3 on aggregate, and a of position. Wisła were finally broken players are set to earn an extra €500,000 after the second leg in Krakow. The first 1–0 advantage on away goals, Wisła were when Gervasio Núñez’s low left strike was for each win and €250,00 per draw in the meeting in Chorzów was closer than the in position to reach the cup final. handed off by Perdijić in the 7th round, group stage, to be divided equally among the members of the team. The players score indicated, as Paweł Abbott converted That all changed in the 68th minute ensuring Ruch’s advancement. can pocket an extra €1 million for advanc- a questionable penalty in the 74th minute when Wisła’s Dragan Paljić appeared to Ruch went on to lose 3–0 against Legia ing to the quarterfinals, and €3.75 million to give Ruch a two-goal aggregate lead. drag down Ruch forward Łukasz Janoszka Warsaw in the cup final while Wisła in the unlikely event that Poland wins the The return leg featured even more in the penalty area, leading to Abbott’s goal rebounded with subsequent wins against championship. controversy, beginning with an apparent that gave Ruch a one-goal advantage on ŁKS and Podbeskidzie in Ekstraklasa Wisła goal by Gervasio Núñez in the15th aggregate. During the desperate waning play. James C Muus

Kenyans wins Cracovia Marathon The 11th Cracovia Marathon was run runner-up with a time of 2:12:37, and last week under mostly sunny and windy third-place finisher Faustin Mussa Starehe conditions, a mixed blessing for the more of Tanzania was clocked at 2:13:02. than 3,000 competitors who participated Lucia Kimani, a Kenyan now residing in this year’s race. in Bosnia & Herzegovina, topped the Peter Kariuki Wanjiru of Kenya women’s division with a time of 2:36:50 emerged as the overall winner with a time – nearly four minutes ahead of her closest of 2:12:11 – 45 seconds slower than the challenger, Anastasiya Zuyeva of Russia. event’s record time set by Julius Kipkorir Poland’s Agnieszka Ciołek led for most Kilimo in 2009. of the way, to the excitement of local Wanjiru’s result was a personal best, over spectators lining the course. However, three minutes faster than his 4th-place it was too good to be true and she only finish in Krakow last year. The champion managed to hold on for third place. said afterward: “I’m very happy with what Ciołek required medical attention when we have done here…. Certainly [the fans] she fell just after crossing the finish line, helped me in this.” but her ailment proved to be no more than His countryman, Edwin Kirui, finished simple post-race exhaustion. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post | May 2012 11

Ruch edges Wisła in cup semi-finals With the Accent School of Polish majówka noun (f) solidarność noun (f) a (spring/summer) picnic or outing solidarity

Jest piękna pogoda! Jedziemy na majówkę? Trwa dyskusja nad nową definicją solidarności europejskiej. It’s beautiful weather! Let’s go for a picnic? There is continuing discussion over the new definition of European solidarity.

kwitnący adj kontrolować verb (ja kontroluję, ty kontrolujesz) blooming to check, inspect, monitor Za oknem piękne, kwitnące drzewa. Straż graniczna będzie kontrolować dokumenty kibiców. Beautiful, blooming trees outside the window. The boarder guards are going to check the documents of football fans.

A little bit of Polish U - RODZINY! A TY?

mój brat Jak ma na imię moja żona moja matka JA twoja mama? mój ojciec moja siostra Czy masz żonę/męża? mój syn

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