Citylife - Page 16 Citylife - Page 12 Citylife Green Paths for Krakow Region Locals Consider Ecological Angles

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FREE APRIL 2009 Edition 54 ISSN 1898-4762 krakow POST www.krakowpost.com

OFF Plus Camera '09 O.S.T.R. inside CityLife - Page 16 CityLife - Page 12 Citylife Green Paths for Krakow Region Locals consider ecological angles

Magdalena Matyjaszek

eing open to an ecological lifestyle seems to be not enough for a contemporary society that is demanding more and more engagementB in ecological issues. These days, being directly involved in the green way of life seems to be the answer. As a result, a growing number of initiatives are spreading throughout Krakow and the Małopolska region with the aim of promoting a more hands-on involvement. While considering the city and looking for evidence of activities promoting local food production, some end up be- Visualisation of the Płaszów labour camp, from the forthcoming exhibition at the Schindler Factory / photo MHK lieving that products sold at the Kleparz market are all healthy, while others try and save up in advance when planning INSIDE a visit to a health food shop. The motto SCHINDLER WILL SHINE “you are what you eat” provokes much Krakow more consideration now than several years ago. Armenian anniversary As a result of Polish participation in First phase of factory revamp complete commemorated in Krakow the Kyoto protocol, many initiatives fil- >> page 4 ter down to smaller scale communities. Alexandra Szaflarska from the Aeris Nick Hodge Futuro Foundation, an NGO founded Poland in Krakow, organises campaigns and activities across the country: "We try to he centre-piece is ent Krakow in the period of changed its character fol- Football: Showing racism keep ourselves active on the home front, yet to come, but the Second World War: how lowing the years 1939-1945. the red card but attempts are often limited by logis- the Schindler Fac- Krakow was, what losses it Almost 30 percent of the in- >> page 8 tical constraints. One of our flagship tory has opened to sustained, and what role it habitants of the city - those initiatives has been planting along the theT public after years of ad- played in Poland and Eu- who were Jewish - disap- Greenways trail, which runs from Kra- ministrative wrangling. The rope at that time," Michał peared, and in all prob- Feature kow to Vienna. In fact, this was one of Historical Museum of the Niezabitowski, director of ability, they disappeared our key planting locations for our pop- City of Krakow has taken the city museum, told the forever. We came through a Easter traditions ular 'Dedicate a Tree' projects, through control of the project, and Krakow Post. traumatic experience - one in Krakow which anyone can visit our website and this autumn, an interactive "Up until now there has which has had a strong im- >> page 9 sponsor a tree for a loved one.” exhibition will transport been no exhibition which pact on our history." Returning to a city such as Krakow, it visitors back to the trying shows the history of Kra- Unquestionably, there is necessary to begin with the local need years of the occupation: kow during this very diffi- will be a focus on Oskar for fresh and seasonal food to be found "The main aim of found- cult time," he continued. Schindler himself, the Ger- Opinion on the shop shelves. If there is strong ing this museum is to pres- "The city completely man entrepreneur who British National Party encouragement from a community, the saved over a thousand Jews reaction of farmers’ markets is immedi- from the Holocaust. in Spitfire muddle ate. For now, the market circumstances Oskar Schindler (1908- >> page 10 in Poland are different, resulting from a 1974) took over the enam- customer force of habit. Sir Julian Rose, elware factory following the an early pioneer of organic farming Nazi invasion of Poland in methods in the UK, is, together with September 1939. The busi- Jadwiga Łopata, directing the Interna- ness was already defunct, tional Coalition to Protect the Polish but Schindler, who was in Countryside. Their headquarters are the pay of German Intel- in Stryszów, near Wadowice. He ex- ligence, sought to exploit plains that “Poland is only just getting cheap labour in an effort to stuck into the supermarket scenario turn the enterprise around. and therefore the incentive to look for He persuaded Nazi authori- an alternative hasn’t quite happened yet, ties to allow him to house but I think it will.” Those waiting for a workers on site, ultimately change hope that people will swiftly transferring his predomi- realise that food now available Michał Niezabitowski speaks at last month's conference nantly Jewish work- in the supermarkets is incom- >> 2 / photo Anna Spysz force west in 1944. >> 3 2 Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

<< Schindler from page 1

A small exhibition about Schindler opened in the factory on March 15th, which will be complemented by more threads once the main section opens. "We want everyone who visits this museum to feel that they are walking into the past," explained Łukasz Czuj, co-author of the planned centre-piece. Speaking with great enthusiasm about the project, he described how the design follows a labyrinthine form, with visitors moving though a chain of halls following the chronological progression of the Nazi occupation. "We want to build an exposition that allows you to enter into the very drama of the city, so that you feel how the city is changing," he said, adding that even the sounds and smells of the occupation will be evoked. Like the acclaimed Warsaw Rising Museum, the Krakow exhibition will offer a modern, interactive experience. Dramatic episodes such as the mass arrest of Krakow professors will be ren- dered, as well as the emergence of resis- tance. Simulations of the ghetto and the Płaszów forced labour camp will evoke the magnitude of the Jewish tragedy. "The exhibition will show the dramatic choices that people made," Mr. Czuj explained. "But it should also prompt us to think 'What would my decision have been?'" Besides worthy historical heirlooms, the curators are also looking for more Visualisation of Schindler's office, from the forthcoming exhibition at the Schindler Factory/ photo MHK mundane items in an effort to recreate the atmosphere of those years. artists denounced as "degenerate." a womaniser and that he did it for the in order to discuss the most appropriate "We have a vast amount of pho- Crucially, it is hoped that the cre- money. But of course, I would not exist manner in which to handle the legacy. tographs and documents," director ation of the two museums in Krakow's had it not been for Schindler." "Such a museum could be created Niezabitowski said, "but we're lacking Zabłocie district will help regenerate Of the current developments at the elsewhere, but this is indeed an ideal everyday, household objects from the an area that is considered somewhat factory, Mrs. Haber is optimistic: "I am place for such purposes. It is a kind of occupation era," he added. "These may beyond the pale. The factory's legacy glad that something is being done," she historical monument, and for this rea- not have great material value, but for us enjoys exceptional publicity owing to says. son it is with immense good fortune curators, they are very precious." Thomas Keneally's historical novel Director Michał Niezabitowski re- that owing to the course of events, and One of the stumbling blocks in the Schindler's Ark and Spielberg's subse- vealed that visits to Germany, Israel also to the activity of the city authori- regeneration of the factory thus far has quent film, Schindler's List. One section and the United States had been made ties, we can realise the exhibition here." been the sheer vastness of the site. In of the main exhibition will allow visitors fact, despite the considerable scope of to walk through Oskar Schindler's pri- the current project, it will only utilize vate office, which will contain an "ark" the former administrative buildings of of enamelware in tribute to the Jewish the factory. These halls provide ample workers. room for the curators' needs. Schindler himself continues to pro- The adjoining factory buildings - voke conflicting reactions. Lili Haber, which resemble a string of air hangars President of the Association of Cra- - will house a museum of contemporary covians in Israel, has organised events art, under separate ownership. This de- in tribute to the industrialist, and her cision sparked some debate, with ques- own father was saved on the list, along tions raised as to whether contemporary with two of her uncles. She talks with art was appropriate for a site so inti- joy about the overwhelming success of mately connected with the Holocaust. a recent Polish exhibition in Jerusalem However, it has been argued that a space about the Jews of pre-war Krakow. How- that allows for free artistic expression is ever, she told the Post that her father re- in itself a victory against the ideology of sented the praise lavished on Schindler. Nazism. Hitler's regime banned count- "My father always told me that he was less artforms, with scores of brilliant The revamped exterior of the former Schindler factory / photo Anna Spysz letters to the editor about krakow POST Krakow Post is a monthly Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief For advertising inquiries, TheKrakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for publication should be signed and bear the publication published by [email protected] please contact: Lifeboat Ltd. signatory’s e-mail address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves the right to edit letters. ISSN: 1898-4762 Nick Hodge, Culture Editor Michał McSperrin-Kossak, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], or by post to: www.krakowpost.com [email protected] Group Sales Manager [email protected] Krakow Post Marta Firlet-Bradshaw, Publisher Dana Dramowicz, Nightlife Editor +48 (12) 421 4865 Ul. Szczepańska 7/4a [email protected] [email protected] Printers, www.polskapresse.pl 31-011 Krakow Stuart Wilson, Design [email protected] www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 3 News Krakow

<< Green from page 1 Commercial & Residential Cleaning Services parable to the produce offered by local MM GRUPA farmers, and most of all, is "fake." The Cleaning Service change must take place when the need +48 (12) 655.04.35 +48 (0) 781.150.575 for eating good quality food meets one’s www.mmgrupa.pl [email protected] financial possibilities. People have the choice between either eating bad or unknown quality food that is easy to find Do you need U.S. legal assistance? in the supermarkets for a cheap price, or they can change their eating habits Licensed American lawyer in Krakow and buy an expensive product in return Contracts, letters to creditors, for better quality. As good produce is negotiations, etc. usually sold at a high price, one might Reasonable rates decide to eat expensive products more tel: +48 (0) 785-565-823 occasionally but stay healthy and closer to the local farmers. email: [email protected] Conversely, when it comes to the birth of new farms wishing to grow crops and sell their surplus, future farmers have to face governmental regulations, which are sometimes highly daunting. Julian Rose says: “Sanitary and hygiene regulation [...] has been the death of thousands of small farmers right across Europe. They are deliberately setting standards far higher than necessary. I think the interesting evidence is that food poisoning cases are very low in Poland; in England they are about four times as high, with massive hygienic Local produce is already available at markets / photo Anna Spysz regulations. Every year we are losing 25,000 farmers off the land, because of Alexandra Szaflarska encourages mak- to include all sorts of environmental im- all the stimuli there are to force producing use of the footprint calculator that pacts. How much water do we use? How tion systems out of independence and has been pioneered by the Aeris Futuro many plastic bags do we go through into dependence upon corporate based Foundation. “Anyone can use it free of each week?” world agriculture systems.” charge on our website. While our calcu- These are all small steps on the path For anyone who wants to lead a more lator deals directly with carbon dioxide to a more eco-friendly lifestyle. eco-friendly lifestyle and start afresh, emissions, the analogy can be extended 4 Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow Armenian Anniversary KRAKOW IN BRIEF

Unsound Rebounds Krakow takes part in Armenian tribute Just last month, the organisers of the annual Unsound Festival feared that the 2009 edi- Wojciech Załuski tion, planned to be even bigger and better than 2008’s extremely popular event, would ne and a half of the two have to be cancelled. But now, after an unex- million Armenians living pectedly generous offer of support from the in southern Anatolia were city - to the sum of 300,000 złoty - the music killed between 1915 and festival is back on track for 2009. 1916.O They perished under the heel of the Committee of Union and Progress, "We've fixed our errors and we know that the a body that represented Turkish nation- event will be even better than in years past," alists in the territory of the Ottoman the organisers, Tone Foundation, told Polish Empire, now Turkey, during World War daily Gazeta Wyborcza. The errors referred I. Each year, Armenians in their coun- to are the invoices for 35,000 złoty which try and around the world commemo- were missing euro to złoty conversion rates as rate the anniversary of this tragedy on required by the city's financial department. 24 April, when the arrests of Armenian The deadline for the corrections had passed, intellectuals and the elite began in what and in order to rectify this, the organisers is now Istanbul, formerly Constanti- had to first return the missing sum, which nople. Krakow is also taking part in the they did last month. tributes, and indeed, Poland has a rich seam of Armenian heritage that stretch- The 2009 edition will take place with the es back some 700 years. help of the Krakow Festival Bureau, which During the Armenian genocide - the will cover the festival's operating costs. Gosia first genocide of the twentieth century Plysa, one of the main organisers, told Gaze- - Turks and Kurds managed to exter- The Primate of the Armenian Catholic Church, Archbishop Neshan Karakeheyan, leads ta Wyborcza, "We're counting on a positive minate almost every Armenian man in prayers at St. Nicholas' Church, Krakow / photo Adam Terlecki cooperation with the city." Last year's festival Anatolia (Asia Minor). Only those who took place in such unusual venues as the mas- ran away with the Russian army, were sive St. Katerine's Cathedral and the Manggha taken by French ships, or were already Centre and included film and artistic events living beyond the reach of the Ottoman in addition to the concerts, a trend that Ms. Empire, in the Southern Caucasus, sur- Plysa hopes to continue in 2009. vived. The Committee claimed that it had to Competition for Kazimierz Square deport Armenians far from the current borders, so that they would not become One of Krakow's most distinctive squares is to a threat to the defence of the Ottoman be revamped after a winning design is chosen Empire. But witnesses observed that the this July. Plac Nowy, which boasts many his- deportation was an intentional process toric buildings and some of the hippest bars of extermination by means of hunger, and cafes in town, has long awaited renewal. exhaustion, slavery, rape, torture and Professor Andrzej Wszykowski, the chief city murder. Each time that the Armenian architect, emphasises that sensitivity to the elite of a given city or village was sum- specific character of the space is paramount. moned and murdered, whoever was left Besides providing a home to many bars and - mostly women, old people and children restaurants, the square also serves as an - were forced to march for miles to their open air market for small traders. These di- new destination. During the march, lapidated stalls will be redesigned in the up- young women were very often given to coming competition. The focal point of the men who were actually involved in the square, the former Jewish trading hall, will genocide. These victims were typically retain its prominence. This striking building, sold as slaves or passed on to Kurdish raised in 1900, hosted a ritual slaughterhouse or Turkish Muslim families. Many of for poultry, and is a characteristic relic of the these children were ultimately raised as lost Jewish world of Kazimierz. Muslims. The rest - robbed, raped, tortured and starving, were directed into From left to right: Father Tadeusz Isakowicz-Zaleski, Father Petros Ernest Yesayan and the desert of Deir ez Zor, now in Syria, Archbishop Neshan Karakeheyan in Krakow. Archbishop Neshan visited Poland to take where the survivors of the marches were part in the ordination of the first Catholic Armenian deacon in 71 years left to die on the ground, with / photo Adam Terlecki no food or water. The roads >> 5 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 5 News Krakow

<< Armenians from page 4

were littered with bodies which nobody and further afield to Europe and Po- stands near Saint Nicholas' Church on cared to bury. As a result, skulls and land. Kopernika street in Krakow. The church bones soon became ubiquitous across The Polish Armenian emigration be- was chosen because it stands on an an- the landscape. gan in the 11th century and its ances- cient road to the south and the Black tors extend to eight thousand inhabit- Sea, from where Armenians in Poland Polish Perspectives ants today. Armenians were welcomed originally came, and also because the by the Polish King Kazimierz the Great house of worship was partly funded Armenia, the first country in the in the 14th century, after the region by Armenian merchants. The monu- world to adopt Christianity as its state that is now western Ukraine joined ment was designed by architect Jacek religion, was originally located in the the Polish state. In exchange for legal Chrząszczewski, and it commemorates region of the biblical paradise. Mount autonomy, Armenians served for the the victims of the Armenian genocide Ararat, the highest peak in eastern Ana- common good of Poland, offering skills in Anatolia, as well as the Polish and tolia, is its abiding national symbol. in diplomacy, architecture, trade or art. Armenian victims of the Ukrainian It is from this mountain that the dove Recently, due to the fall of the Soviet Insurgent Army (UPA) that were slain brought the olive palm to Noah, reveal- Union and the Nagorno-Karabakh War during World War II, and Armenian ing that the water levels had begun to held between Armenia and Azerbaijan priests killed by the NKWD, the Soviet fall, and that the earth was ready to be in 1988-1994, Poland has gained a new secret police. reborn. The Armenians, a nation with a Armenian emigration which, together This year, a mass commemorating rich culture and their own original al- with the old, extends to about 80 thou- the victims of the genocide will be held phabet and language, typically dealt in sand people. Armenians in Poland, like in Saint Nicholas' Church on the 25th trade, creating bourgeois and intellectu- other minorities, were able to develop of April, at 4 pm. Earlier, on the 18th al elites in many cities across Anatolia. their customs and traditions freely since of April, Tigran Vardikyana, an Arme- However, from its beginnings, there was 1989. Now, with the help of Krakow's nian artist who has lived in Poland since a constant struggle to maintain cultural Armenian Cultural Association, under 1991, will present a photographic exhi- identity and independence in the face of the presidency of Adam Terlecki, they bition called "Armenia Nearby - Ar- different empires and tribes. At various are recreating their community. menia Close” at the Młodzieżowy Dom times, the Armenians fell under the in- Armenians in Poland and Krakow are Kultury (Fort 49 "Krzesławice", os. Na fluence and control of Persia, Alexander also united in their original liturgy, led Stoku 27b), at 4 pm. Likewise, on the the Great's Empire, the Byzantine Em- by the priest Tadeusz Isakowicz-Zales- 27th April, the artist Mathieu Zeitind- pire, the Mongols and finally the Turks, ki, a veteran of the Solidarity struggle, jioglou, who lives in France, and whose who created the Ottoman Empire, not and a descendent of a distinguished grandfather survived the genocide in The Khachkar at St. Nicholas' forgetting the Russians. These circum- Polish Armenian family. In 2004, Car- Turkey, will present the documentary Church, ul. Kopernika, Krakow stances very often forced Armenians to dinal Franciszek Macharski sanctified movie Story of the Son of an Olive Sell- / photo Nick Hodge emigrate into the region of the Byzan- the Khachkar, a traditional stone cross er. It will be screened at Kino Mikro at tine Empire, as well as to the Crimea, and sacred Armenian symbol, which 7:30 pm. 6 Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com News Poland Counting the Cost

Auschwitz Museum calls for urgent funding

Anna Jarosz

ixty years after opening, the former prisoners come here and fami- pean countries, but also the USA, Cana- Auschwitz Museum is facing lies of the victims visit the museum, da and governments of other countries economic strain. As the yearly admission fees cannot be mandatory. which demonstrated their interest in upkeep costs amount to 5 mil- Indirectly, the number of visitors af- this site. lionS euros, Poland has asked the Euro- fects the budget as more people use our pean Union for help in maintaining the guides and a fraction of the guide fee re- KP: Germany was the first to declare complex. In February, Prime Minister mains at the museum. We noted a slight their help. Donald Tusk, in an official letter to the increase in the sale of our books which leaders of the EU states, asked for the is also a source of income for us. PC: I find the help declared by Germany creation of a special fund to help carry very open - they were the first to react out repair and restoration at the former KP: Recently, PM Tusk, followed by and this is vital. This year, on a federal camp. The fund would be used entirely Minister Sikorski, turned to the EU level, the country committed 1 million for long-term conservation work. Here, states for financial support. To what euros, which does not end the discus- the director of the museum, Dr. Piotr extent is it the obligation European, or sion on the level of federal states. Next Cywiński, describes the situation at indeed of humankind generally? year a larger sum is to be included in hand: the budget. German companies will be PC: Shortly after WWII people began encouraged to support the fund as well. Krakow Post: Can you please explain discussing what could be done to pre- This reply is very prompt and it cannot how conservation in the Auschwitz vent it from happening again. New le- be expected of them to commit to larger Museum was financed till now? gal terms were created, such as crimes sums; the reply is open and promises against humanity. Human rights were much greater effort in the future. Obvi- Dr. Piotr Cywiński: Poland has been more fully defined, various institutions ously, there is a historical responsibil- mostly the sole up-keeper of the mu- were established, amongst others the ity of which Germans are aware, but seum for 60 years now. In the 1990s and UN. It was a time of deep thought on the there is also responsibility from other 2000s the programmes for conservation future of Europe. Since then, there has countries which either sent victims works financed by other countries were been no serious conflict within Europe here and took part in the procedure those that catered to the most urgent - a situation that has never happened or those whose citizens died here. Ev- needs. Until recently, this procedure before - and this is what we must pro- eryone takes care of the graves of their functioned quite well. However, what tect. WWII was different, not because ancestors, and Auschwitz is a colossal needs to be said explicitly is that the of the bombing of Dresden or the beach grave. For us Poles, it is the largest grave times of local and ad hoc conservation landings in Normandy, but because of we have as well. It is only natural that are history now. The buildings here were Auschwitz. Seeing the results of war such sites are taken care of. Today, the raised with no view to last: they were in Europe we understand that now we last prisoners are passing away, they are built by prisoners who were not pro- have a lot to protect. Hence Auschwitz, over 80 years old, and with their voices fessional builders and who intention- as the only concentration camp, and at becoming history, this site now needs to ally did not invest much effort as they the same time extermination camp - the be even more meaningful to help young needed to keep their strength in order biggest of them all - a symbol of the ter- people understand the place. to survive. The site was not designed to rible entirety, is one of the foundations last long, and as a result its condition is of our post-war European civilisation. KP: What further declarations are The gate at Auschwitz II-Birkenau poor and deteriorating. Similarly to hu- This is the reason why for me, turning expected? / photo Brien Barnett man health, the process of deterioration to other countries for financial support speeds up and the costs of preservation is not accounting for historical respon- PC: We are expecting replies from hear uplifting words. It is now, with the are rising. This was the reason for a new sibility. What is to be won here is not prime ministers, which will most likely economic crisis, that we can realise that philosophy of conservation: no lon- only the preservation of the past and take about two months. It is difficult to we have much to protect and that in the ger ad hoc but global. And in this case memory, but the foundations of a future establish when the planned amount will most important issues the solidarity the budget of the Ministry of Culture where we understand the importance of be reached. I guess in the late spring of the EU counts. Crisis is the catalyst proved insufficient. We are talking about Auschwitz as a place where we should we will be able to start discussions on which shows, once again, that we have 200 hectares, 155 buildings, 300 ruins, all meet. definite sums when we know the replies reached a totally different dimension 100,000 objects, 250 running metres of and the general atmosphere. Professor of reciprocity over the last fifty years. documents. Regardless of the scale, the KP: What other countries outside Bartoszewski is its founder, and [the While in the second half of the year the global plan needs to be finalised with- of the EU were asked for help? fund] will be under strong international Foundation’s activities will be intensi- in 20 years because after such a time- supervision. For the time being the dip- fied, the only purpose will be the pres- span, conservation must be conducted PC: The prime minister addressed Euro- lomatic talks are very positive and we ervation of the site. again. Knowing the scope of preservation works as well as the period within which they need to be carried out; i.e. 20 years, we can easily forecast the yearly absorption being EUR 4-5 million. This triggered the idea to create a larger fund instead of asking various countries for smaller amounts to address the most pressing needs. We need to secure the situation for future generations. Nearly all the brick barracks were accessible to the public ten years ago; today less than half are open.

KP: How does the number of visitors af- fect the museum’s budget and income?

PC: The number of visitors does not translate itself into the museum’s income. Poland will not introduce entrance fees to a martyrology site. [As] www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 7 News Poland Penniless Poles Forced to Camp

Group of Poles reaches rock bottom in UK

Anna Jarosz

olish migrant workers made zens of their jobs, and some Poles have There has been a marked increase in Nevertheless, although many Poles the news in the UK once more complained that they are suffering from such cases since the so-called "credit are aware that Britain is no longer in March as around thirty men “hate crimes.” The Federation of Poles crunch" took hold in autumn. Simulta- booming, some migrants prefer to stay were reported by a local Lin- in Great Britain is said to be concerned neously, the number of Polish workers in the UK rather than to go back to Po- colnshireP newspaper to be living in about the growing number of racist in the UK has dropped from about one land, despite the trying conditions they tents by the River Witham. The article incidents in which Poles are victims. million to about 600,000. Fewer and find themselves in. For those in the dir- was accompanied by pictures of tents in Reading the comments to the article fewer Poles are trying their luck in the est straits, who have invalid passports woodland, with tree branches used as about Poles living in a “shanty town”, it emigration gamble. As Dr Mokrzycki and no right to benefits, and above all washing lines. The Poles were said to be comes as no surprise. told the Independent, there is a wake-up no chance of finding a job, it seems the living thanks to the kind hearts of locals The figures of British-born citizens call that "the streets of Britain are not only solution lies with the Polish em- who gave them food. losing their jobs followed by the increase paved with gold." bassy taking action. The situation of the camping migrants of non-UK workers create a picture of is more complex than simply asking for a Britain invaded by migrants who not something to eat, as the Poles' passports only take away jobs from British citi- have expired and without these they zens but also claim benefits. The truth is cannot find legal work. What is more, somewhere in between, as all migrants in order to renew the document or to who work legally, regardless of the peri- request a loan from the Polish embassy od of their stay in Britain, pay standard to return home, the migrants would taxes. As Jan Mokrzycki of the Federa- need to travel to London or Manchester, tion of Poles in Great Britain comment- which they also cannot afford. In this ed to the Independent, "People are los- way, without valid passports, they stand ing work and if they haven't been here no chance of being employed. As some for a year they are not entitled to any of the homeless have lived in the UK for benefits so they end up on the streets. less than 12 months they are not entitled There are some cases where people have to claim any benefits. come here on false promises, spending The atmosphere around Polish mi- everything they have, and then finding grant workers has rarely been enthu- the work they were told was waiting for siastic, and now with unemployment them just doesn't exist." soaring the attitude seems to be becom- Dr Mokrzycki estimates that about ing more hostile. Poles are being per- 1,500 Poles have reached the point ceived as guilty of depriving British citi- of sleeping rough on Britain's streets.

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The Human Resources Department Email: [email protected] 8 Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com News Poland Showing Racism the Red Card

UEFA Conference tackles prejudice

Peter Gentle

ver 250 delegates from all over Europe met in Warsaw on March 3 and 4 for the United Against Racism con- Oference to discuss how to kick prejudice out of football stadiums. The conference - staged by UEFA, the players' union FIFPro and the Foot- ball Against Racism in Europe (FARE) network - also gave the Polish FA and NGOs the opportunity to show what they are doing to tackle the problem, as the country prepares to co-host the Euro 2012 Championships with Ukraine. The afternoon session on March 3rd was taken up with workshops and discussions led by professional football players themselves. Pape Samba Ba of the second division MKS Znicz Pruszków, based near Warsaw, told the conference that sometimes the racist chanting at games can get so bad it becomes almost unbearable. "In one game the referee was doing nothing to stop the abuse. It got to a stage where I could not take any more,” he said. Legia Warszawa’s Brazilian-born Roger Guerreiro - who received Polish citizenship last summer, qualifying him to play for Poland during Euro 2008 - said: “I have had the misfortune of en- countering racism on the pitch and off it. Racism is an issue related to culture and upbringing. Children watching television can see anti-racist messages. We must all join forces to do something Brazilian-born Roger Guerreiro (no. 20) playing for Poland / photo by Grzegorz Jereczek about it. The role of the footballer is very important to raise awareness, especially among young people.” Italy, Spain and Eastern Europe are perceived as the remaining hotspots for racist abuse being mixed in with the usual exuberant chanting at football games. A BBC documentary last year raised fears that black players could encounter Racism conference heard earlier this Never again? ment and PZPN to do much more to more than just strong tackles in Poland month - attended by Secretary of State stamp out the racist abuse and symbols during Euro 2012. of the Sports Ministry Adam Giersz and President of the Polish FA, former at football games in Poland - the then “What I found during an investiga- new President of the Polish FA (PZPN) international representative Grzegorz president of the Polish FA, Michal List- tion into the problem in Poland was Grzegorz Lato - the problem does still Lato, told the United Against Racism kiewicz, said the involvement of the truly shocking,” said the BBC’s reporter exist in Poland. conference that the PZPN, in coopera- NGO was “a scandal.” He said the re- Mihir Bose. “I found racism that was And the problem is, sadly, not a new tion with the Ministry of Sport, has a port was “embarrassing” but “nobody strident and in your face in a way it nev- one. Poland’s first high profile black number of projects underway in Po- took it seriously” and that the Never er was in Britain, even in the very bad player was Nigerian born Emanuel Oli- land to make sure there are no embar- Again delegate at the congress was just old days of English football in the 1970s sadebe, who, like Roger, received fast- rassing incidents during Euro 2012. “a silly girl.” and 80s. And this is the country that track Polish citizenship so he could These mainly revolve around "raising But as Euro 2012 gets nearer, PZPN will co-host Euro 2012,” he warned. play for Poland during the World Cup awareness" and education campaigns are under more pressure to reassure The documentary shows racist graf- in South Korea and Japan in 2002. For directed at fans of clubs and the na- people that Poland is doing its bit to fiti outside the Legia Warszawa ground, Olisadebe, who had been playing his tional side. boot the racism - and corruption - out a club that was banned from European club football at Legia Warszawa, that’s But the PZPN response to the rac- of play. competition last year after fans invaded when the trouble started. ist chanting and banana throwing an- Rafał Pankowski, a sociologist and the pitch during an away game in Lith- He told African Soccer magazine of tics of a minority of Polish football fans Never Again’s spokesman at the con- uania. Bose claims that neo-Nazi sym- an incident when Legia were playing has been very similar to its response to ference in Warsaw this March, pointed bols are regularly displayed at matches away at Lublin: “I took the ball to the the deeply entrenched and widespread out in one of the discussion sessions in Poland and told the story of how a corner flag and all of a sudden it was as corruption and match fixing within that although action should be taken by third division player, despite scoring if it was raining bananas. Around 50 of Polish football - initially, they denied it the clubs, the causes of racism in foot- two goals for his team, was beaten up them came raining down on me. [..] I existed. ball stadiums can be found outside the by the team’s fans just because he was had been in Poland for three years and When the anti-racist campaigning turnstiles, not inside. black. nothing like that had happened to me group Nigdy Wiecej (Never Again) "Racism is a reflection of society and Both the Super Express and Dzi- b e fore .” wrote a report for the Extraordinary was not created in the stadium," he said. ennik newspapers disputed the BBC The following year, during the na- Congress of the International Football "Football is a positive force in society documentary’s slightly apocalyptic tional side’s rather dull, friendly game Federation (FIFA) on racism in the and we must live up to the challenges of message, and much of the evidence it against Iceland, the bananas reap- game, held in Buenos Aires in 2001 the past and of the future too." provided. But, as the United Against peared. - which called for the Polish govern- www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 9 Feature Easter in Krakow Unravelling Poland's Easter traditions

Nick Hodge

argely thanks to its term be- high art, but they're full of character, hind the Iron Curtain, Po- and often extraordinarily inventive. land is often perceived as an The best offer a gloriously kitsch overwhelmingly grey country feast for the eyes. Lwhere rainbows fear to tread. But the Easter Sunday itself revolves truth is that Poles have always loved around the home, and food that was colour, and at no point in the year is blessed in church the previous day is this more apparent than at Easter - an consumed in an elaborate extended inspirational time to travel the coun- family breakfast, often involving a try. dash of alcohol. Krakow itself will be In the days leading up to Holy rather sleepy, and as with Saturday, Week, Krakow's Main Market Square there will be little open in the way of will pullulate with dozens of stalls shops. selling curious-looking totems. These However, things go rather more up- paganesque concoctions, woven from beat on Easter Monday as the age-old dyed wildflowers, are in fact Polish custom of Śmigus Dyngus comes into versions of the Easter Palm (tropical play. In an echo of a pagan rite, Poles palms were rather scarce in medieval have carte blanche to soak each oth- Poland, and always full of fantasy, the er with pails of water on this barmy Poles created their own alternative). occasion - you might want to take a On Palm Sunday itself, processions water pistol as a cunning self-defense will bring a kaleidoscope of colour to measure. Simultaneously, a popular churches across the country. family destination here in Krakow is Another classic feature of the the Emaus fair, which continues to be Polish Easter is the painted egg, or held, as it has been for centuries, by rather painted eggs, for as with flow- the Convent in the Zwierzyniec dis- ers, Poles like to see lots of colour trict. It's a short walk west along the together. These pisanki are an essen- river from Wawel Castle. Still, bear in tial part of the Easter table, and the mind that you may encounter some Palm Sunday in Poland (Lipnica Murowana) source of many folk legends. mischievous fellows intent on greet- / photo Maciej Szczepańczyk Holy Week begins in earnest on ing you in the traditional aquatic Easter Thursday, and at Krakow's style. Wawel Cathedral (as at cathedrals nationwide), bishops wash the feet For a vivid journey into the realm of twelve elderly men in an echo of of Poland's Easter traditions, head Christ's gesture towards the apostles over to the Ethnographic Museum at the Last Supper. The following day in Kazimierz. Fresh from a recent - Good Friday - is one of the most revamp, the museum is full of en- intensely religious days of the year, chanting folk heirlooms. Their collec- and Krakow's churches will fill up tion of painted eggs alone would give with the faithful. The tone is deeply modern artists a run for their money. mournful, recalling Christ's crucifix- (Plac Wolnica 1). ion on this day. Holy Saturday is a more cheery occasion, and from mid-morning, there will be a constant trail of families coming to and from churches. This blessing of little baskets of victuals, a custom known as Święcone (liter- ally 'the Blessed') has been practised since time immemorial. A typical basket includes eggs, salt, cake, sau- sage and bread, but there will also be painted eggs and always a small model of a lamb - Christ, the innocent "lamb of God." Not wanting to leave their pets out, children often bring a little something extra - you might even spot a packet of Whis- kas or a chocolate rabbit peeping out from some baskets. Each parish has been a hive of activity in the run up to Easter, and one of the peculiarities here in Poland is the tradition of the Grób Pański (the Lord's Tomb). Priests, helped by local volunteers, construct fantastical, life- size renderings of Christ's entomb- Wet Monday (Lany Poniedziałek/Śmigus Dyngus) 1930s postcard ment. These are not supposed to be / photo Ethnographic Museum, Plac Wolnica 1 by M. Barański 10 Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com Opinion Plane Ignorance POLAND IN BRIEF Pole Wounded in IRA Attack British National Party in Polish Spitfire farce In an attack British Prime Minister Gordon Brown said “shocked and outraged” the coun- Szymon Urbański try, two gunmen set upon the Massereene army base in Northern Ireland, killing two soldiers and wounding four others, including one Pole. The Real IRA, a group that split from the Provisional IRA in 1997, claimed responsibility for the attack, which took place around 9:20 p.m. on Saturday 7 March. Amongst the four wounded were two pizza delivery men, one of them a Pole. The 32-year-old Domino’s Piz- za employee was in the process of delivering pizzas to the soldiers with his colleague when the gunmen opened fire. The Pole was criti- cally wounded, and was rushed to the Antrim Area Hospital with the other victims, where he underwent surgery successfully. Aleksand- er Dietkow, the consulate general in Edin- burg, told the press: “Doctors have said that his life is no longer in danger, but his state is still serious.” His life was saved due to the bravery of one of the wounded soldiers, Marc Fitzpatrick, who pushed the Pole out of the way of further gunfire. For his courage, Fitz- patrick will receive the Order of Merit of the Republic of Poland from President Kaczyński.

Polish Jewish History in Brussels

An exhibition previewed in Warsaw in March is moving on to Brussels. Photographs, old paintings and documents depicting ten centuries of Jewish life in Poland will be on dis- play at the European Parliament building in The plane that caused all the fuss. The BNP used a rendering of this image of a Spitfire, Brussels for a week this month. The exhibi- originally created by graphic designer Anders Lejczak / image courtesy of Anders Lejczak tion is organised by the Emanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute in Warsaw, an or- ganisation that houses Poland's largest depos- itory of Jewish-related archival documents, books, pictures, and art objects. Starting with the first arrival of Jews in Poland dur- alleyrand, Napoleon’s cynical overrun by Hitler. These were led by the Żurakowski, who became a renowned ing the Middle Ages after their expulsion from minister, once claimed that Poles, many of whom had experienced test pilot, associated with the Canadian other parts of Europe, the exhibition depicts a mistake in politics is worse extraordinary adventures to get to Eng- Avro “Arrow” supersonic jet interceptor Jewish life in Poland as rich in culture and than a crime. land, and whose desire for vengeance program. The fate of Polish top-scoring symbiotic with the larger Polish, mostly Ro- Last month, the Daily Mail revealed gave them a unique aggressiveness in fighter ace, Stanisław Skalski, was more T man Catholic, society. Through a variety of that the far-Right British National Party the air.” Period. A fair description, but a gruesome. Like many other Polish ser- documents from the institute's archives, the was fronting its EU election campaign bit short, to say the least. vicemen, after returning to Poland he exhibition tells the story of both assimilated with a picture of a rather idiosyncratic There is also one scene in the classic was arrested by the communist secret Jews that were active in Polish society, as Spitfire. The plane featured on the post- 1969 film Battle of Britain, in which a police, accused of espionage, tortured well as Jewish traditions that survived within er happened to be the personal mount British commander instructs his Polish and sentenced to death, only to be re- the community. A portrait gallery also depicts of Squadron Leader Jan Zumbach, a pilots to observe strict radio procedure leased after the 1956 “thaw.” famous Polish Jews who made their marks on fighter ace of the famed Polish Air Force in flight - “Don’t speak bloody Polish!” - While readers’ responses at the Daily the larger European population. 303 squadron. only to realise that his wingmen had al- Mail forum were generally ironic, ridi- Soon afterwards, Mr. Nick Griffin of ready engaged in dogfights with Mess- culing the BNP’s misfire, some were Shunned from Polish Store the BNP claimed: “We have deliber- erschmitts. clearly offended by the words “Polish ately used a Spitfire from the 303 Polish During the actual BoB (summer and Spitfire” used in the title of the article. In an ironic reversal of prejudice, a Polish Fighter Squadron as our backdrop in autumn of 1940), two Polish fighter These people argued that there is no shopkeeper allegedly refused to serve an the ‘Battle of Britain’ road show for the squadrons were formed, consisting of such thing, as the Spitfire was designed Englishwoman in the town of Goole, East European elections.” Deliberately, huh? experienced pilots who had fought in in Britain and built by British workers, Yorkshire in late March. 17-year-old Kaley Whoever designed the BNP poster, the Polish and French campaigns. The no matter who flew the thing. This is Leighton told The Mirror that upon entering he or she used - without permission as 303 squadron scored the highest num- very true of course. a Polski Sklep (Polish shop) to buy a drink, it turned out - a Spitfire picture created ber of enemy kills of all RAF (Royal Air Having read that, I lost myself in the owner asked her if she was English. by Swedish graphic designer Anders Force) units. thought about Britishness for a while; Upon her affirmation, he asked her to leave Lejczak, who, ironically enough, is As of 1945, the Polish contingents then I took a quick look at my kitchen - twice. A local reporter was initially told Polish-born. The plane nose in the numbered nine fighter and four bomb- shelf, to discover two tin boxes labelled by a woman working at the shop that they graphic is blurred by the rotating pro- er squadrons, plus reconnaissance and “English Tea.” Well, to be elaborately do not serve English people. After revealing peller, which obscures the Polish red- special duty units. In 1946, the Polish correct, there is no such thing either. her profession, the worker dismissed this as and-white chequered national insignia, squadrons were disbanded, and as Brit- Should the tea boxes include the fol- a misunderstanding and took back her previ- which was usually painted just below ain’s economy began to sink into post- lowing consumer information: “grown, ous statement. Since the incident, the girl’s the engine exhausts. Perhaps that’s why war depression (few may remember reaped and processed by Indian or Chi- family has complained to the town council, the picture did not trigger any alarm that until the early 1950s food rationing nese farmers"? though nothing has been resolved yet. The bells at the BNP HQ? was even stricter than during the hos- Without a pilot, a British-to-the-bone proprietor of the shop, Michał Bąk, told The Of course, the poor graphic designer tilities), the former allies became an un- Spitfire was just 2.5 tons of metal stand- Mirror, "I have lots of English people coming probably didn't have the faintest clue of wanted burden and were encouraged to ing dormant on the ground. Apart from in to buy drinks and snacks. The second time the possible pitfalls. Over the 150 pag- leave Britain, a situation that is echoed the brave British pilots, it was flown it was problems with the language. The lady es of my 1990 English book about the in today's crisis. by Poles, New Zealanders, Canadians, in the shop couldn't understand what she was Battle of Britain, there is only one refer- A few of those Poles continued to Czechs, Slovaks, Belgians, French, and saying." ence to Polish airmen: “...There was also fly, like Jan Zumbach, who led a decid- Greeks, to name just a few. And they a large contingent from the countries edly adventurous life, or Janusz “Żura” were all immigrants. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 11 Interview Our Man in London (Part II) The President of the Federation of Poles in Great Britain talks to Robert Szmigielski

This is the second of a two-part interview “TheDaily Mail is a newspaper of the I am curious how much change he with Dr. Jan Mokrzycki, continued from right-wing, and to sell their newspapers has witnessed in England since then. He our March edition. The full interview can they must write about what they believe takes a deep breath as he harks back to be read online at www.krakowpost.com in,” he says. “But, if they lead a long- days of yore. term campaign which can be consid- “A society that was largely mono-cul- ered as anti-Polish, you have to some- tural is now a society that is multi-cultur- thought about Dr. Mokrzycki's how curb those views – which luckily al and multi-ethnic,” he muses. “It was a most recent public statements in we managed to.” society where people thought twice be- the British press, more specifically; the Giles Coren furore (when, like

Imany, I was outraged by the food critic's When we came to the UK, many national generalisations about Poles), and shock- jock Chris Moyles' rant on the radio associations were against us. Today, trade (tasteless, but unsurprising to those of us who wake up to his ramblings every unions extend us their hands. To a large morning). But hadn't Coren simply ex- extent, this is because they need more “ ercised his right to free speech? Mokrzy- “ cki sighs, pausing in contemplation be- members, not because of any special fore answering carefully: Dr. Mokrzycki at his office “I think there is a difference between love for the Poles - but the fact is we can /photo Robert Szmigielski freedom of expression and simply of- actually work with them, as our interests more members, not because of any spe- fending people,” he says. “I'm absolutely cial love for the Poles - but the fact is for the freedom of speech, but that move in the same direction. we can actually work with them, as our freedom must have boundaries. In the interests move in the same direction.” case of Moyles, it was an ugly outburst, Does he long for the country of his which he apologized for immediately “They used Poles as a symbol for their fore anything was done. birth? after the protest.” struggle against the EU. Yes, they have But now it has turned into a society that “Yes, and no,” he says bluntly. “My “As for Coren...” he begins, like a the right to oppose the European Union, is similar to the United States, where biggest pleasure is going whenever I headmaster discussing a disobedient but they should not single out Poles. So people act first and ask questions later. can, and I would definitely miss Poland pupil, “we haven't heard an apology yet, we came to an understanding, just like It has become...” Mokrzycki sighs, “...a more if I had close family there – unfor- but that does not mean that the matter with the BBC, who agreed to stop talk- society that has lost much of its ethics.” tunately, I don't. The Germans ensured is finished.” ing about 'Polish' concentration camps “I remember my first few years in that.” He continues: “If Coren insulted one during WW2.” Great Britain when nobody locked their “But, I miss the nature of the Polish Pole, he could be taken to court imme- Mokrzycki is understandably pleased front door or their cars,” he continues. people – especially the beautiful wom- diately. But unfortunately, in British law with the concession made by the BBC. “Today that's not possible. Of course, en,” he adds. “I miss the fact that every- there is no judicial recourse if one of- Like many of his generation, he and this is not only in Great Britain, but a where I hear the beautiful language, al- fends an entire nation,” he says. I nod, his family suffered terribly at the hands change that has occurred in global soci- though, nowadays I hear it often on the but more from relief than agreement. of the Nazis; his mother was sent to ety as a whole, and it's definitely not for streets of London.” “We simply want to find out who is Auschwitz, and his father, uncle and the better.” “However, the United Kingdom is my responsible for the regulation of jour- grandfather were all executed by the He adds: “However, it also seems that home. I love this country,” he declares. nalists who abuse the right of free Gestapo. Britain is more open and liberal – a “I've lived here over 60 years, and here speech, and who promote a view that Mokrzycki stayed in Warsaw with his place where skin colour and origin does I have my university friends, my neigh- is obviously incorrect. Because, it's not grandmother and, once liberated by the not play the role it once did.” bours, my golf club, and the people that true that Poles amused themselves dur- Russians, he broadcast a plea over the “It's also changed a lot in terms of Brit- I go to football matches with. I have ing Easter by sending Jews into a syna- radio, unaware that most of his family ain's attitude towards Poles,” Mokrzycki my grandchildren, and a granddaugh- gogue, which they later set on fire,” he had perished. Thankfully, his mother – states. “When we [the post-WW2 mi- ter who will represent Great Britain in says, referring to Coren's diatribe. freed in Ravensbruck by the Americans grants] came to the UK, many national gymnastics during the 2012 Olympics.” When he mentions the regulation of - heard the transmission and went to associations were against us. Today, “But,” Mokrzycki concludes, perhaps journalists, I ask, is he referring to the Warsaw to collect her son. In 1946, aged trade unions extend us their hands. To with a hint of that Polish stubbornness, Daily Mail ? He chuckles. 14, Mokrzycki came to Britain. a large extent, this is because they need “I will always feel like a Pole.” 12 Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com Business & Technology Talk Safe with Safetalk BUSINESS IN BRIEF

Good News for American Workers Krakow company stays on top of the spies in Poland

Until the first of March, American citizens Grażyna Zawada working and living in Poland were faced with the burden of double taxation - first, to the Polish Urząd Skarbowy (tax bureau), then to nnowacja Polska, a Cracovian as an invisible system at the entrance to out any harm to people,” ensures Anna the American Internal Revenue Service (IRS). company, has developed “Safetalk,” a room that would scan all passers-by Jabłonowska. But from last month, the American Social Se- a system that can pinpoint previ- and send the information to security. Revealing more information about curity Administration (SSA), responsible for ously undetectable spy devices. On The person passing won’t even know the system is prohibited for safety rea- the country’s social insurance and retirement Ithe fast changing espionage market, the he’s being searched,” she says, adding sons. “We must not forget that this programme, eliminated the need of paying invention is one step ahead of all avail- that this feature is particularly useful in business is a constant war; whatever social security taxes for those Americans able systems. public places such as airports, as terror- protection we design, somebody from working for U.S. companies in Poland. Addi- If you want to covertly record a con- ists often try to smuggle non-metallic ‘the dark side’ will want to break it,” says tionally, the new agreement also removes the versation, one thing you need to do is to fuses to detonate their bombs. Anna Jabłonowska. double tax burden for Poles working for Polish smuggle the bug into the actual meeting The system is based on a set of non- The idea of developing the Safetalk companies in the U.S., and covers those em- place. The best way to accomplish this is linear junction detectors; plainly speak- system had been abandoned earlier by ployees working in both countries who pre- to make the device undetectable for tap ing, it detects semiconductor devices a British company, who said the project viously did not qualify for social benefits in detectors, by simply turning it off and and is based on microwave transmis- was impossible to complete. Having ac- either country due to not meeting minimum pulling the batteries out; this makes it sion. The pattern is quite simple: the quired a grant of several hundred euros eligibility requirements. The agreement re- invisible for the majority of detectors. gate emits microwave radiation of a cer- from the EU 6 Framework Program, moves the financial strain for companies as Preventing people from doing this has tain frequency. When the microwaves Innowacja Polska has in two years ac- well as the estimated 45,000 workers that been an issue for the secret service, as hit a non-linear connection, they emit quired the necessary know-how and may benefit during the first seven years of well as many institutions, especially multiple radiation waves that can be de- improved the system, becoming a lead- the agreement. Previously, American compa- when a diplomatic scandal is at stake, as tected. The problem was that the reflect- er of the international project. nies operating in Poland and employing U.S. searching a public official is considered ed radiation is usually not very big, and The basic Safetalk product will cost citizens were stuck paying social insurance rather offensive. Traditional bug detect- what’s more, the tap devices are usually 30,000 złoty, yet custom-made versions taxes to both countries’ coffers based on the ing has sometimes been inefficient, as a located somewhere on a person, e.g. in are also available. It will also be sold same earnings. Now, the company can decide recently cleared room can be instantly his pocket. If the system was to use in- strictly to authorised entities, potential- which country’s social programme to contrib- tapped again; what’s more, the system creased microwave power to catch the ly government and secret service units. ute to, rather than paying for both. The im- has failed to discreetly check a person then reflected waves, a human might “We need to remember that no se- plementation of the agreement sees Poland passing by. get injured, not to mention the poten- curity system can guarantee 100 per- finally catch up with 23 other countries with “Safetalk is a device designed to detect tial harm of sitting around highly emit- cent safety; it can only lessen poten- similar agreements with the U.S., including all available tap tools, even those that ting devices for hours. Safetalk solved tial threats. To be really successful one most of the EU. are turned off and/or those which are all those issues, developing a system so needs to install other security systems to non-metallic or plastic” explained Anna sophisticated that safe, low microwave complement each other. Only a multi- Jabłonowska, president of Krakow’s In- radiation is possible. “Wherever there source system is effective, as human in- Poland Has Funds to Spare for IMF nowacja Polska, and the coordinator of is an electronic object containing semi- ventiveness is hardly limited,” stresses the Safetalk project. “It can be installed conductors, we are able to find it with- Anna Jabłonowska. Rather than accepting emergency funds from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) like fellow EU members Latvia and Hungary, Po- land has announced that it will contribute a $1.5 billion loan to the pool. Poland’s finance minister, Jacek Rostowski, assured the press at a conference in Brussels that “IMF aid for Poland is out of the question. Poland does not need such aid.” He also pledged $1.5 billion from Poland towards a collective EU fund for there’s more to life... the IMF, which will total at least $75 billion. The money for the loan will not come from the national budget, according to Finance Minister Jacek Rostowski. This is in line with WANTED: Prime Minister Tusk’s desire to cut back on state spending as the economy slows, to prevent an increase of the country’s budget deficit. The pledge is a show of confidence PROFESSIONAL SALES PEOPLE in the Polish economy, which Polish leaders stress is stronger than many in the region. In- deed, it is one of the few economies within the EU that expects to see growth in 2009, Are you an energetic, enthusiastic and self-motivated sales dynamo? even to the tune of 1.1 percent, as predicted last month by the head of the Polish national How do you feel about working for Warsaw’s leading internet guide? bank,HOUSE Sławomir TBA Skrzypek.

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[email protected] www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 13 Property Post From Dust to Dior

Bonarka complex to rise in Krakow

Michał Ruszkowski

few years ago, the future location of the Bonarka City Centre looked like a post-war battleground. The lot itself, Aon which TriGranit is erecting its 2 billion zloty complex, was called the “Dust Factory in Podgorze.” The Hungarian company, with its impressive new design, brought hope of revival to this badly neglected part of town. The Bonarka Chemical Production Plant, with its rich history and a long tradition in the production of various chemical supplies, was opened in the late 1880s. At its peak production period in the 1980s, the company employed more than 800 workers. Closed in 2003, the abandoned plant quickly fell into ruin. In 2005, Bonarka, with its 19 hectares of land, was purchased by TriGranit Development Corporation. The company is mainly known in Po- land for the construction of the Silesia City Centre in Katowice, which opened in 2005. It also built a residential complex called Debowe Tarasy, also located in Katowice. TriGranit is one of the biggest development companies in this part of Europe, investing in new projects in cities such as Prague, Budapest, Sofia Visualisation of the Bonarka City Centre / courtesy of TriGranit and Zagreb. The company’s main business strategy is to design and build large multi-purpose commercial centres. last, will be a 500 apartment residential TriGranit believes that by redeveloping complex. A new system of wide pedes- old, run-down post-industrial parts of trian alleys, bike paths, and squares has cities, it can help reshape the social and also been designed. About 400 new trees economic status of these forgotten parts will be planted. of towns, turning them into lively new The mall’s new road system will be neighbourhoods. connected to the city’s already existing This post-industrial revitalization infrastructure. Work is in progress on turned out to be the hardest part of modernising local streets and building interior design the whole project. For many years, the three new roundabouts. It is estimated fit out & furnishings chemical-producing plant contami- that the Bonarka City Centre will gener- nated the soil and polluted the ground ate about 6,000 new jobs. waters around it. Prior to the initiation TriGranit has decided to leave a little of construction, the whole area went reminder of the location’s industrial through a massive recultivation process, past. A 105-metre tall reinforced con- one of the biggest in Poland’s history. crete shaft will be the only former in- This initiative was recognised by the dustrial structure in the new complex city’s council, which pointed out that that will not be demolished. The reno- TriGranit’s commitment and efforts to vated giant, with information about the transform this part of town into a “liv- plant’s history at its base, and with a list able environment” were a success. of Bonarka Chemical Plant’s former em- The Bonarka City Centre, when it ployees carved on its side, might turn opens, will be the biggest facility of its out to be an interesting addition to the kind in Kraków, and one the biggest bustling shopping centre. The designers in Poland. The project is divided into aim to create a place that mixes the old three stages. The first part will include spirit of the location with the modern a 234,000 sq. metre shopping and en- city lifestyle of today. In a few months tertainment centre, with 250 shops, a time, we’ll be able to experience it our- 20-screen cinema, restaurants, cafes, selves. and a two-level parking lot for 3,200 ve- Bonarka City Centre’s first part is hicles. The second phase of the project scheduled to open in November this will consist of four modern office build- year, with the planned completion of ings, with 30,000 sq. metres of class A the whole project in 2012. Beauty, simplicity, functionality... office space for rent. The third, and the Assisting you from concept to completion. While you are away we turn your property into a really lucrative investment or your dream hideaway in the Got a property for rent or sale? inspiring city of Krakow. All of our apartments have been rented to foreign professionals or Advertise it HERE in our dedicated used as short term rentals of exceptional standard. property section! For more details contact:

www.zielinska.com FOR [email protected] SALE www.interiorskrakow.com +48 504 676 860 tel: +48 (0)12 429 1699 14 Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com Sports Post Radwańska on the Rocks SPORT IN BRIEF Cracovia Holds on to Hockey Title Tennis star stuck in a rut Cracovia Krakow has won the Polish champi- onship for a consecutive time. Mirroring last spring's clash, Cracovia defeated GKS Tychy in Wojciech Galon the final series. Cracovia had won their first two home games, just as Tychy did with their opening matches on home ice. However, the gnieszka Radwańska’s sub- the next game to secure a 7:6 (8-10) 6:4 fourth game, the second in Tychy, resulted standard 2009 season con- win in one hour and 35 minutes. in a 3-1 win for the Cracovians. With the tinued after a quarter-final The result was a huge letdown for series being a best of nine, the next game defeat to Russian teenager Radwańska, who went into the match as threatened to be decisive, and it was: back Anastasia Pavlyuchenkova at the BNP a firm favourite, having throughout the A in Krakow, Cracovia humiliated Tychy with a Paribas Open in Indian Wells. The Pole tournament shown signs of the form convincing 7-0 victory. Thanks to the title, will now lose her world number 10 that saw her achieve a career high sin- Cracovia will enter the 2009-2010 Champions ranking to Belarusian Victoria Azaren- gles ranking in August last year, when Hockey League. ka, who managed a semi-final berth at she broke through into the world’s top the prestigious WTA event. ten. Dudek to Feyenoord, Rasiak to Stay Pavlyuchenkova had not dropped a set However, a sluggish performance lit- at Watford? coming into the match, and her impres- tered with unforced errors and a general The so-called silly season of football transfers sive run included a second round upset lack of urgency from the 20-year-old has started and a couple of Poles are being of number two seed Jelena Jankovic, meant that her barren 2009 campaign mentioned. With Leo Beenhakker sharing his and she showed no signs of letting up continued. The Pole has now failed to responsibilities of head coach of the Polish against the seventh seeded Radwańska. make it through to a semi-final all sea- national team with that of being technical Both players had difficulty holding son, having also suffered first round de- advisor at Feyenoord, rumours of a come- onto serves in the first set, resulting in feats in three of the six tournaments she back by Jerzy Dudek to the Rotterdam side the lead seesawing back and forth. After has contested so far. have been steadily increasing. Dudek, cur- opening the match with a break, Pav- Meanwhile, Radwańska’s younger sis- rently second goalie at Real Madrid, wants lyuchenkova dropped the next three ter, Urszula, showed at the Paribas Open a transfer so that he can still play regularly games before countering to take a 5-3 why many are billing her as a future top and hold on to a chance of going to the World lead. Radwanska drew level at 5-all and ten player. The 18-year-old, who de- Cup in South Africa, should Poland qualify again at 6-all, but saw the first set slip feated her older sister in their first ever for the 2010 tournament. The same goes for out of her hands after failing to convert professional encounter in February, en- Radwańska at the Porsche Grand Prix Grzegorz Rasiak, who currently plays in the on her set points at 6-5 and 7-6 in the tered the tournament as a wild card and / photo Alexander Eckert English league. The Watford striker (on loan tie-break. managed to produce a stunning upset from Southampton) has made it clear that he Radwańska failed to take advantage over world number eight Svetlana Kuz- 7-6(5), 6-2 in the final. prefers to stay at Watford, rather than going of a good start in the second set. Having netsova on her way to the fourth round, In the men’s draw, Rafael Nadal un- back to his substitute role at Southampton. stormed to a 3:1 lead, she allowed the where she was eventually eliminated by derlined his world number one status Watford also announced it will do anything to hard-hitting Russian to counter once Caroline Wozniacki. after a commanding 6-1 6-2 victory keep the Pole at the club. again. Seizing on Radwańska’s growing The Paribas Open went to fourth seed over Britain’s top player Andy Murray. unforced error count, Pavlyuchenkova Vera Zvonareva, who completed the The Spaniard recaptured the Indian Kubica Cashes In won four straight games to assume a 5-3 sweep of the singles and doubles titles Wells title after previously winning the BMW Sauber driver Robert Kubica is Poland's lead in the set, and after failing to serve after beating defending champion and tournament in 2007. richest sportsman. A Polish tabloid revealed out the match, broke her opponent in former world number one Ana Ivanovic that the country's only Grand Prix driver earned just under three million euros in 2008, placing Kubica firmly at the top of Poland's SPORTS HIGHLIGHTS ON THE SMALL SCREEN cash tree. The top five is as follows:

Football Formula 1 Horse Racing 1. Robert Kubica (Formula One Driver) 5 April - Man Utd vs. Aston Villa (17:00) 5 April - Malaysian Grand Prix (11:00 4 April: Grand National (4:15pm GMT) 350,000 złoty per month in 2008 - English Premier League GMT) - Aintree, England 2. Artur Boruc (Football Player) 9 April - Hamburg vs. Man City (20:45) 19 April - Chinese Grand Prix (09:00 341,000 złoty per month in 2008 - UEFA Cup Quarter Final 1st leg GMT) Golf 3. Euzebiusz Smolarek (Football Player) 16 April - Man City vs. Hamburg (20:45) 26 April - Bahrain Grand Prix (14:00 GMT) 9-12 April - Masters - Augusta National, 291,000 złoty per month in 2008 - UEFA Cup Quarter Final 2nd leg Georgia 4. Jerzy Dudek (Football Player) 18 April - Arsenal vs. Chelsea (18:15) - 280,000 złoty per month in 2008 FA Cup Semi Final 5. Tomasz Kuszczak (Football Player) 19 April - Man Utd vs. Everton (17:00) 262,000 złoty per month in 2008 - FA Cup Semi Final Source: Sportfan.pl / Super Express 21 April - Liverpool vs. Arsenal (21:00) *All times local and subject to change. - English Premier League Provided by Sports Pub, www.sportspub.pl compiled by Daniël van Hoven www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 15 Extra Post

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Bracka 3/5 Blue Bells Apartments tel: 012 4337310 American ul. Poselska 19 ul. Starowiślna 22 Bunkier Sztuki The Krakow Hash House Harriers (KH3) will Consulate Punkt Pl. Szczepański 3 TRAIN INFO (PKP) in English ul. Stolarska 9 Cul-de-Sac ul. Sławkowska 12 Campanile have their inaugural run Saturday, May 16, 2009, ul. Na Grodku 4 ul. św. Tomasza 34 Kijow Centre at 14:00. Meet at the entrance to the Jordan Park, tel: 9436 Austrian Consulate Re ul. Krasińskiego 34 ul. Krupnicza 42 Cyrano de Bergerac ul. Krzyża 4 City Hostel at the end of ul. Romana Ingardena. Fee 20 PLN. www.rozklad.pkp.pl ul. Slawkowska 26 ul. Krzyża 21 Kino Pod Baranami German Consulate Red Rubin Rynek Główny 27 Runners and walkers welcome. If you are new BUS INFO (PKS) ul. Stolarska 7 Czekolada ul. Grodzka 25 Deco Hostel ul. Bracka 4 ul. Mazowiecka 3a Princes Czartoryski to Hashing and want to know more about what tel: 9316 Hon. 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2 - CityLife Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com L i f e s t y l e PHOTO OF THE MONTH CONTENTS

>Malczewski: Master of Melancholia 6

> Fork Out 5

> EVENTS: OFF PLUS CAMERA '09 8

> CLUB LIFE 12

> REVIEWS: 14 Brideshead Revisited, A History of Krakow "Hala Targowa" by Stefan W. Czarniecki for Everybody, The Black Series

Each month, the Krakow Post will choose one picture from amongst those sent in by readers to appear as the “Photo of the Month.” > LAST PAGE: Stars & Sudoku 15 The winner will receive a free consultation with a lecturer from the Academy of Photography. In October 2009, one of the previous 12 winners will be selected the Grand Prix winner and will receive a brand-new Nikon digital SLR camera, as well as a free course from the Academy in either English or Polish. We encourage all of Krakow’s residents to use photography as a means of artistic expression. Top image: Jacek Malczewski Bottom image: Gloria Viagra performs at Off Plus Camera

KRAKOW

CHRONICLES by John Marshall

Hmm... from the warm look of contentment on Let’s be honest, most Western Christians’ obser- sight of so many cheers the soul. However, re- Although the Slavs are great churchgoers, Christi- your face I see that you’re reading April’s Krakow vance of church festivities is limited – at best – to moving my rose-tinted spectacles for a moment, anity came late to this part of the world, with pa- Post. Well, that must mean one of two things: ei- Christmas and Easter, and even then more often I wonder how it was ten or twenty years ago. For ganism only beginning to be replaced in the tenth ther you’ve made it through another winter (and in a purely secular manner: expensively-bought many, going to church is merely “the done thing.” and eleventh centuries. And pagan customs are if it was the Polish winter, double brownie points presents at Christmas, expensively-bought choco- Where the church was once the source of comfort much more evident in Poland than in the West. to you) or you’re rereading this article at some late eggs for Easter. Our experience and knowl- and an alternative to spiritually empty and mor- For example, the pagan Pole used to sprinkle wa- future point as a distraction to doing something edge of the Church, its yearly rites and festivities ally bankrupt communism, many Poles no longer ter on the fields to awaken the Earth Mother af- else – probably cleaning the windows or starting is, for many, fading fast. Twice a year we may seek nor, in fact, need such solidarity, and wor- ter her long winter sleep. This custom has – with your thesis. Either way, welcome (once again) to perhaps pop our heads into the local church, ship instead at the new churches of Ikea and the some slight modification, it’s true - survived to the Polish spring, which officially started on Sat- shake hands nervously with the local vicar (just Galeria shopping centres. In this, of course, Polish this day in the custom of throwing (sometimes urday 28th March. how do you address him / her?), before curtseying society is merely “catching up” with those in the sizeable quantities of) cold water over innocent backwards into the Women’s Institute flower dis- West. passers-by. It’s called Wet Monday, or Śmigus- Spring is, for most Poles, the finest season of the play, but that’s about it. Or, at least, that’s how dyngus (after two mythical pagan gods), and year. Autumn’s ok, they say, summer’s too hot and it used to be. For as anyone who either lives in But Easter, at least, is a time of genuine celebra- you’d better be on your guard on Easter Monday winter is … well … winter. Poland or lives near a community of ex-pat Poles tion. And Poles fill every part of Holy Week with when any random citizen – usually a child – might knows very well, there are some churches where meaning and tradition. On Easter Saturday, for decide to cover you in water, balconies of flats But it’s not quite summer yet, down here in Cen- the cup runneth over - Polish churchgoers stand- example, people take baskets of food into church being a popular launching-pad. Although tradition tral Europe. For no sooner does winter give way ing and even kneeling in the streets outside. to be blessed by the priest, and children paint dictates that you’re not allowed to be angered by to spring than attention is turned to serious mat- eggs, giving them to members of their family. An- this, you are allowed to retaliate. Sales of water ters. For, in the Christian calendar, March means Huge church attendances were one of the first other of the many family-related traditions is the pistols, AK47s and orange plastic rocket-launchers Lent (the traditional 40-day period of abstinence things to hit me when I came to Poland. And Sun- all-day breakfast on Easter Sunday, when kitchen are predicted to rise over the Easter period. echoing Christ’s ordeals and temptations in the day services repeated several times, with people tables are laden with all manner of tasty foods, wilderness), followed by Easter and the Resurrec- queuing outside à la Harrods on Boxing Day morn- to be enjoyed from dawn to dusk. Traditionally, a tion of Christ. ing? You just don’t see it in Britain. As an occa- moderate intake of alcohol from morning onwards Selected pieces by John Marshall may be found at sional churchgoer myself, I love to see it: just the helps ensure a particularly cheery Sunday. http://krakowjohnradio.blogspot.com www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 CityLife - 3 MY LIFE HEAD OUT

This month, City Life catches up with Zofia Gołubiew, director of the National Museum in Krakow.

photo/ J. Świderski

Which part of Krakow do you live in and why? In the town centre. I was born here, although not on the same street.

If you were crowned queen of Krakow, what would be your first move? I would see to it that several underground car parks were created, and that the city was cleaned up, well-lit and full of greenery. Also, the pigeons would disappear. photo / MateuszMajewski.com Kelleran Coffee Roasters What’s one place tourists mustn't miss when in Krakow? Fort Luneta Warszawska, ul. Kamienna 16, 012 418 0078 Rather banal, but the Main Market Square, the view over the city and Błonia Common from the Kościuszko Mound, and one or two charming Cracovian courtyards. Even though it serves as the core of an everyday drink, the humble coffee bean has often been overlooked by even the most discerning food and drink lovers. The majority of us are relatively ignorant of Is there anything that’s overrated about Krakow? the complex flavours and the small but important methods that go into making a special cup of coffee The pretentious tag of "magical" city. - and let's face it, Poland is no Italy when it comes to coffee appreciation. Certainly, going out for a good cup of coffee in Krakow is not impossible, but brewing high quality java just the way you like If you had to erect a statue to any Cracovian, dead or alive, who it at home can often be confusing and deceptively expensive. But it turns out that a fancy espresso would it be? machine and a bag of beans from the top shelf at Alma may not necessarily be the best way to go. We already have enough statues. Perhaps something abstract: jazz and poetry.

Inspired by their time living in coffee-heaven Costa Rica, and presumably tired of trying to find a Which Polish stereotype do you find the funniest? perfect cup of coffee in Krakow, John and Justyna Kelleran decided to set up their own roastery and I don't know any that would make me smile. began to search for a location. And what a location they found - situated in the 19th century Luneta Warszawska fort, Kelleran has found a base that's more than ideal for their operations. In the shadow Where do you buy your clothes in Krakow? of a massive cast iron coffee roaster, they carefully roast the beans they receive from around the Wherever I happen to be. world. They work hard to find coffee of the highest quality, and at a good price while maintaining as direct a relationship with the suppliers as possible. There is an obvious care put not only into What are some of your regular eating and drinking haunts in the city? the acquisition of the raw green beans, but of course into the roasting itself. Calling the people at The restaurants Nostagia and Guliwer, as well as the "descendants" of the milk bars of old: Górnik, Kelleran coffee fanatics would be quite the understatement, as they roast coffee not just by numbers on the corner of ul. Czysta and ul. Dolnych Młynów, and Kuchnia Polska on the corner of Karmelicka but primarily by smell, looks, and believe it or not, sound - creating a kind of "handmade" roast. You and Garbarska. might assume that something this special comes at an exorbitant price. Not so - Kelleran's beans are all sold at a reasonable cost, with a starter 300g bag averaging about 23 złoty and 1kg averaging 75 What’s your biggest annoyance about living in Krakow? złoty. At a nice price like this there are certainly no more excuses for buying those suspicious single Dog and pigeon messes, and the lack of solidarity amongst Cracovians. use instant coffee packets.

Where do you go to escape for the weekend? The Kellerans have no aggressively competitive business model - they just want their coffee to speak To the hills of Beskid Wyspowy. for itself. They know that with just a few extra minutes of careful brewing and preparation, even with a cheap but amazingly effective stovetop moka pot, a nearly perfect cup of coffee is within every- What’s the best place to go on a long walk or bike ride in the city? one's reach. So inject a bit of passion into your daily routine, and join the quality coffee revolution. The path of the old Młynówka river along ul. Grottgera and beyond - there's wonderful graffiti there. Coffee available in-store or online at www.kellerancoffee.com

Finally: pierogi or naleśniki? - promotional text Either or, so long as they are with spinach.

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BALATON CRACOW EXPATS CORLEONE

restaurant

delicious hungarian cuisine

ul. Grodzka 37, Kraków tel./fax: (0) 12 422 04 69 www.balaton.krakow.pl

Restaurant with unique temperament and Cracow atmosphere ! Famous restaurant on the “King’s Road” from Wawel Castle to Main Square. You can eat your dinner in one of the antique carriages… Traditional old polish cuisine using old recipes and charred beech wood grill. Dishes prepared over a beech wood grill using old polish and Italian recipes. (Restauracja z atmosferą średniowiecznego Krakowa, (To restauracja z włoskim temperamentem i krakowską atmosferą! na „Drodze Królewskiej” z Wawelu do Rynku Głównego. Można tu zjeść kolację w jednej z karet, wśród uskrzydlonej łodzi Zapraszamy w kulinarną „podróż” do staropolskich smaków. rybackiej i góralskich sań. Ogródek z fontanną na dziedzińcu.) Kuchnia polska, włoskie pasty…i tiramisu!) Courtyard garden and medieval atmosphere. “Cherubino” ul.św.Tomasza 15, Krakow, tel. 012/4294007, ul.Grodzka 35, Kraków, tel. 012/4213999, tel./fax. 012/4294147 tel./fax. 012/4302113 www.cherubino.pl www.podaniolami.pl www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 CityLife - 5 FORK OUT

Burrito Buffet ul. Warszawska 20, 012 633 0409

My first visit to Burrito Buffet was on a sunny late winter afternoon, and I left the place with a grin and spicy salsa dripping down my fingers onto the sidewalk. Who needs kebabs, I wondered?

The space was tiny with just a few stools, but cheerfully decorated - colourful tiles, dried hanging pep- pers, and photos of Mexico on the walls. Behind the counter was a friendly guy waiting for my order as I read through my options of burrito and quesadilla choices from cheese and beans to shrimp. I chose a photo / MateuszMajewski.com standard mild chicken burrito, and grabbed it to go. For a mild burrito, the sauce was surprisingly spicy and a few slices of jalepenos added an extra punch. Other ingredients included Mexican rice, refried Mnisze Co Nieco beans, cheese, guacamole and coriander, and the tortilla was soft and pliable. Delicious and satisfying Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec, benedicite.pl for just a couple złoty more than a kebab.

My second trip, on a late Saturday evening, was unfortunately not as pleasant. Behind the counter were There's something gratifying about the fact that among the topics under continuous meditation at two new faces, and I have to say their service could use a little improvement, though they did keep with the highest point in Tyniec, is food. The shop of the Benedictine monks both in Tyniec and online has the Polish tradition of treating customers like disturbers of the peace. been stocking abbey-sourced foodstuffs from around the world, as well as a variety of goods made on location. It's been the main source of income for the monks not only for living but to fully satisfy the My burrito this time was equally filling and full of fresh veggies, with just as good a tortilla as before. demands of a historic landmark in constant need of renovation and care. However, this time I chose the beef variety, which had me picking tough bits of cheap beef cuts from my teeth till morning. Another upsetting discovery was the apparently inevitable presence of chopped Those looking to taste the culinary talents of the Benedictines can also head to the abbey's restaurant, cabbage in the ingredients bowl labelled sałata (lettuce). Mnisze Co Nieco, which I visited lately. Situated in a recently renovated cellar space, the restaurant's wooden tables and benches are able to seat around 30 believers (in the Benedictines' food, that is). The It seems that at Burrito Buffet you have at least a 50 percent chance of getting an amazing meal. With walls are adorned with charming illustrations of monks looking holy, and the stereo rocks instrumental a bit of improvement in the customer service department, and a few adjustments in ingredients, they'll chill-out tunes with such surprising harmonies that they recalled a sort of andante medieval free jazz. easily jump straight to the front of the fast food pack.

Opening up my massive wood-backed missal/menu of wrinkled, brown pages, I was happy to see the Dana Dramowicz Benedictine menu was both selective and varied. Making a grand impression was the chef's speciality on the first page - Priory's roast deer with a sauce of junipers and Żubrówka sweet grass herb (the blade of grass flavouring Żubrówka vodka), with buckwheat groats, and mixed vegetables. A pretty impressive start, and one that inspires fanciful mental images of monks hunting deer in the Polish wilderness. This one's the most expensive on the menu at 65 złoty, but the prices significantly lower on the following pages. Meat and fish dishes are well-balanced with a satisfying variety of sides and not a surówka in HEAD OUT sight. There is also a menu postne, or fasting menu, for those abstaining from meat on Fridays. If you don't necessarily feel like spending 30-50 złoty on a main course of meat or fish, consider the vegetar- ian or regional options. Pierogi, naleśniki, and bigos are between 10 and 25 złoty. Don't pass over the Crystal Spa impressive selection of drinks either - Mnisze co Nieco offers a vast selection of beers, wines, and honey ul.Kobierzyńska 47, krysztalowespa.pl liqueurs from abbeys worldwide.

If winter's stubborn persistence is getting you down, or you've simply had too many long days at work, Brisk service meant my divine wild mushroom soup (allegedly according to Saint Lioba's recipe) with a spa treatment might just be the ticket to have you feeling new again. In the quiet residential area bacon and mushrooms was in my hands within minutes. The soup had a full and luscious mushroomy of Ruczaj you'll find the Crystal Spa, a part of the elegant Sympozjum Hotel. Depending on the degree flavour without the watery or slimy characteristics often found in soups of the same style. Chunks of of your exhaustion, the week's rainfall or cloudy skies, or maybe just the questionable state of your bacon added a subtle but immediately vital flavour. cuticles, Crystal offers a variety of treatments that will shape you up and chill you out.

Curious to see the monks' approach to joining sweet with savoury I chose the roast veal with apple The Crystal Spa space is divided into four relaxation areas for massage and body treaments, a pool, sauce, fried unpeeled potatoes and broccoli as my main course. What a heavenly combo! The apple Turkish bath, steam room, sauna, and manicure and pedicure room. The two main cosmetic lines sauce was a creamy concoction with finely chopped flakes of apples floating - a delicately sweet addi- featured at Crystal are Babor and Living Dimension, which will cleanse and relax both your face and tion. So-called Postulate gołąbki (cabbage rolls) stuffed with beef and buckwheat in a wild mushroom body using the latest cosmetic innovations, while harnessing the power of nature. Using minerals, sauce were flawless. salts, herbs and even caviar, your skin will be soothed and refreshed.

The most obvious thing about Mnisze Co Nieco is the pious devotion to nature and tradition. Crucially, Other standard spa treatments are also available at Crystal including depilation, manicures, pedi- the Benedictines managed to avoid (or ignore) the gastronomy-destroying era of communism when cures, make-up, eye-brow shaping and henna, and a variety of massages with aromatherapy if de- bland but cheap substitutes changed the face of Polish cooking. Armed with the secret recipes of sired. With Crystal's friendly, knowledgeable staff you will feel secure knowing your body is in the saints, the Benedictine monks seem to have plenty of delicious tricks up their sleeves. Do they water right hands. their vegetable gardens with holy water? We may never know. In any case, it's this obvious connection between spirituality and food that makes eating at Mnisze co Nieco feel good - both physically and This stylish and inviting spa is the ideal way to unwind and do a bit of body maintenance. The rested, mentally. An expansion is already planned for the future, so check this place out soon before the crowds stress-free and fully refreshed version of yourself is waiting for you at Crystal. start flocking. - promotional text Dana Dramowicz

“…that honor goes to Cafe Camelot, which might just be my favorite cafe in the world (..go for apple pie)” David Streitfeld “The Washington Post Travel” Summer restaurant-boat located in the bend of the Vistula River at the foot of the Wawel Castle. Coffee house – gallery with the most romantic summer garden in Cracow. Sitting on its upper deck, you will recall long-forgotten charms of life The magical atmosphere of that place and original interiors dating back on the Vistula River. to the XIII century. (Galeria – kawiarnia z wyjątkowym ogródkiem w Zaułku Niewiernego Tomasza. (Letnia restauracja na statku na Wiśle u stóp Wawelu. Jest miejscem spotkań niezwykłych ludzi, koncertów, kabaretów i recitali. Siedząc na górnym pokładzie odnajdą Państwo dawno zapomniane uroki życia W galerii na piętrze wydarzenia artystyczne i wystawy fotograficzne. nad Wisłą.) W piątki kabaret „Loch Camelot”)

Galar “Pod Aniołami” Zakole Wisły, On Fridays Loch Camelot Cabaret. Bulwary Wiślana vis a vis Hotelu Sheraton, Cafe Camelot” ul. św.Tomasza 17, Kraków, tel. 0691 44 04 03 tel.012/4210123 6 - CityLife Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Culture Malczewski & Melancholia The National Museum launches anniversary tribute Nick Hodge

Melancholia (1890-1894) byJacek Malczewski, 139.5 x 240 cm / Raczyński Foundation, affiliated with the National Museum in Poznań

he promise of an 80th anniversary show dispersed, this time by the communist authori- occasions, Malczewski was offered the opportu- Vicious Circles at the Princes Czartoryski Museum - Po- ties. Finally, with the collapse of the Iron Cur- nity to travel abroad, but he preferred to stay in land's oldest public collection - would tain, Prince Augustyn's son Adam won a court the Polish orbit, once amazing his companions Perhaps the masterpiece in this month's tremen- have been a comforting thought to case to reclaim the museum. He donated it to by withdrawing from a trip when it had already dous tribute is Melancholia, a striking canvas JacekT Malczewski. Born in 1854, he was very the nation under the aegis of the Czartoryski begun. When asked why he was so keen to get that stretches some 2 and a half metres wide. much the patriot, even though he lived to see Foundation, which continues to oversee the col- away, he replied that a flock of geese in a simple It was painted in 1894. On the back, the artist just a decade of Polish independence before lections, together with the National Museum, Polish meadow was more interesting to him. One wrote a simple pointer: "Prologue. A Vision. The breathing his last in 1929. This month's exhibi- until today. assumes that his companions didn't invite him last century in Poland. Tout un siècle." tion may hint at continuity, but it's been a rocky again. road since then. The setting is a painter's murky studio. In the Master and Mentor To the foreign eye, Malczewski's landscapes ap- far left corner, a faceless artist is slumped in Malczewski's son Rafał - also an acclaimed paint- pear wilfully fantastical. There's an ethereal, front of his work. Yet out of his canvas a horde er - managed to escape Poland at the outbreak Malczewski was a protégé of Jan Matejko (1838- uncanny air that seems decidedly mannered. of phantoms comes hurtling into the room - the of war in 1939. Meanwhile, Prince Augustyn 1893), a tiny man who exerted a titanic influ- But curiously enough, such landscapes were not roar of battle erupts. Sabres clatter and scythes Czartoryski was arrested by the Gestapo and his ence on Polish art. Matejko was the mentor of a figments of his imagination. And even in today's glint. Meanwhile, beyond the studio is an idyl- property seized. The prince and his wife were generation of outstanding Polish artists, all born Poland, where the countryside has been so tragi- lic garden. Yet although the window is ajar, the eventually deported to Madrid, thanks to the in- at a time when Poland did not actually exist as cally disfigured since 1945, there are plenty of desperate phantoms seem trapped. They are tervention of the Spanish Royal Family, but they such. For him, art was a deadly serious matter. places where the traveller can encounter this moving in a kind of vicious circle. One character would never return. The Nazis then set about He saw the artist as the conscience of the na- peculiar aura. Wandering the foothills of the clasps the window ledge and gazes out as if the cherry-picking the Czartoryski collection, with tion, and urged his pupils to strive towards these Carpathians and elsewhere - especially in spring garden was a promised land. Governor Hans Frank spiriting away a Leonardo lofty goals. - one often senses spirits of the kind that Malc- and a Raphael (the latter is still missing). "You're zewski made visible in his canvases. So perhaps Some of Malczewski's peers jokingly dubbed going to be the Queen of Poland," Frank is said Malczewski often rebelled against his mentor, one should say that he was not a fantasist, but him "Symbolewski," as he was forever inserting to have told his wife on hearing the news of but his commitment to the national cause never rather a sort of idiosyncratic naturalist. Non- symbols into his landscapes. And indeed, Melan- his grand new job. Further drama came in the wavered. "Paint so that Poland will rise from the believers should get their walking boots on and cholia offers us plenty to chew over. The flailing 1950s when parts of the collection were again dead," he urged his own pupils. On numerous head for the countryside. figures are those that fought in the three upris- www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 CityLife - 7

CULTURE IN BRIEF "Paint so that "Polska Year!" Opens In UK A yearlong celebration of Polish culture has opened in Britain under the patronage of Queen Elizabeth Poland will rise II and President Lech Kaczyński. "Polska Year!" will present over 200 projects, delving into all aspects of the arts, from contemporary theatre to classi- from the dead," cal music. Key cities in the programme are London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Belfast, Norwich, Liverpool and Oxford, with many more getting in on the he urged his act. One of the first events to open was a landmark exhibition at London's Tate Britain on March 14th. "Symbolism in Poland and Britain," which runs own pupils. until the end of June, compares celebrated British painters Millais, Watts and Burne-Jones with Polish counterparts Wyspiański, Mehoffer, Malczewski and Wojtkiewicz (all virtually unknown in Britain). Also coming under the umbrella of Polska Year is the 7th Polish Film Festival, which concludes on April 8th with an unusual concert by Michael Nyman at the Barbican. For more tips on the entire festival programme, check www.polskayear.pl, which is jam- packed with handy info.

Miraculous Museum

"Had Piłsudski and Weygand failed to arrest the triumphant advance of the Soviet Bolshevik Army at the Battle of Warsaw, not only would Christian- ity have experienced a dangerous reverse, but the very existence of Western civilisation would have been imperilled." So wrote British peer and envoy Edgar Vincent D'Abernon of the "Miracle on the Vis- tula," which took place on August 15th, 1920. The date of the Polish victory was soon declared a national holiday, although unsurprisingly, Stalin wasn't too keen on maintaining the tradition after 1945. Top right: Tobias with a Harp detail, 1909 Still, the holiday was swiftly reinstated following / National Museum in Krakow the collapse of the Iron Curtain, and last month, it was announced that a cutting edge museum is in Bottom right: The great man enjoys a the pipeline for the centenary in 2020. The project ciggie / National Museum in Krakow is being designed by Nizio Design, the team that created the acclaimed Warsaw Rising Museum. It will be located in Ossów, 18 kilometres from the ings against the Russian occupiers; first in 1794, cloaked child simply an image of Death, and the whether wandering by a country stream capital. in defense of Polish sovereignty, second in 1830, garden a celestial one? or in a storm that batters forests to the ground in an attempt at regaining that sovereignty, and again in 1863, the final doomed bid for freedom. Such overtly patriotic paintings as this wouldn't Źyć będę wiecznie - źyć będę długo Star Festival Guests Expected All these uprisings were accompanied by mass have survived long in Russia. Malczewski was w melodii, co kraj okala confiscations of property, and in the latter two, able to wrestle with such themes as he lived czy to się błąka nad wiejską strugą The second Cracow Screen Festival may have bit- deportations to Siberia. Malczewski paints sev- in the Austrian zone of partitioned Poland. The czy w burzy, co bór obała ten the dust, which is bad news for fans of Travis, eral of the condemned men in chains - it was Habsburgs granted the Poles more freedom than Stereolab and Ultravox, but the good news is that standard practice for conspirators to have to was allowed in Russia or Prussia, and with this there are plenty more fish in the sonic sea. First walk the entire journey to Siberia in manacles. liberty, Malczewski emerged as one of the stars up is the Selector Festival on Błonia Common, in an exceptional generation of Polish artists. To- "Whispers of Art: Jacek Malczewski 1854-1929" (5th - 6th June), which will boast Franz Ferdinand, Is the dreamy garden supposed to represent the day, his popularity remains undimmed. Indeed, runs from March 26th until May 24th at the Ar- Orbital and Dizzee Rascal, amongst others. Then longed for state of independence? Quite possibly. the words of one of his poems - certainly not senal of the Czartoryski Museum, ul. Pijarska 8. on 20th June we have the annual Wianki shindig, The only figure in it is a child, suggesting that the most modest ever written - have proved pre- A catalogue has been published by the National fronted this time round by Lenny "Loverman" Krav- only future generations might be able to attain scient: Museum, ed. Barbara Leszczynska-Cyganik. Fur- itz. Meanwhile, September will see Aphex Twin and sovereignty. The fact that the child is dressed in ther background in English can be found in Jan the Cinematic Orchestra weave their spell at the black might hint that Malczewski was not overly Cavanaugh's Out Looking in: Early Modern Polish Sacrum Profanum festival. Finally, another round of optimistic about such a change of fortune actu- I shall live eternally - I shall live long Art, 1890-1918. With special thanks to curator Unsound is in store for October, with early confir- ally occurring. Few Poles were in 1894. Or is the in a melody that rings the land Urszula Kozakowska-Zaucha. mations from Biosphere and Stars of the Lid. 8 - CityLife Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Posted OFFPlus CameraIndependent film festival

'09 Left: Splinterheads (2009) / Right: Zion and his Brother (2009) Only in its second edition, Off Plus Camera is the newest offering in Kra- kow's film festival circuit. However, what the festival lacks in age it will make up for in scale this year, from huge prizes - $100,000 to be exact - to distinguished guests, such as Kim Dong Ho, the founder and director of the Pusan Inter- national Film Festival in Korea, and John Cooper, the Artistic Director of the Sundance festival.

Between the 17th and 26th of April, eight Craco- vian cinemas will screen 100 films. Of those, 12 feature dramas will com- pete for the Cracow Film Award, and with it, $100,000 for the director and one million zloty towards the producer's next film. Audience awards and the Polish Film Nobel are also up for grabs, making this year's competition ex- ceptionally fierce.

Festival programme director Anna Trzebiatowska talks about her hopes for this year's event: Still from Johnny Mad Dog (2008) / directed by Jean-Stéphane Sauvaire, part of Off Plus Camera '09

rakow is already home to several film festivals - which divided audiences all over the world as well as those rial debut – Possibility of an Island. Furthermore, all the films how was the decision made to launch Off Plus Cam- that never made it to Polish cinemas. Therefore, our festival from our Competition section will have their Polish, if not Eu- era last year? What sets it apart from the city’s is quite unique on the map of other Cracovian film events. It ropean, premieres at Off Camera. other film festivals? tries to be open-minded and it initiates the exchange of ideas, K inspirations and trends between Polish and international film Which of those films are you most excited about? industries. Off Plus Camera started off with a particular set of goals and - I am excited about every single one of those films. We have OFF Plus Camera '09 dubious as it may sound - “a mission” that we felt we wanted Which films will be premiering at this festival? seen them all, we argued over them, fought to have some 17th - 26th April to carry out. Our aim is to promote independent cinema and to of them in the programme. It is difficult not to feel strongly help talented directors - who are only just starting out - make We managed to secure quite a few European premieres, and about those films after all that. I am particularly excited about Opening gala and premier their next feature film (sooner rather than later). We appreci- all the films in our programme (apart from some of the ones in Johnny Mad Dog, the film that opens Off Camera. We saw it of Johnny Mad Dog ate how difficult it is to finance any full-length film projects retrospective sections) have never been shown in Poland beat Sundance and it made such a strong impression on us, we 17th April, Kino Kijów and we would like to make this struggle a little less gruelling. fore. Our aim is to bring to Krakow as many new or overlooked knew we wanted to bring it to Poland straight away. It is an That’s where the Dramatic Competition came from. Moreover, films as possible. We will have an international premiere of the amazing piece about child-soldiers in Liberia, incredibly bru- More info we felt the need to bring more films to Krakow – both old and eagerly-awaited Snow White, Russian Red by Xawery Żuławski. tal, realistic and also very important. Moreover, I am thrilled www.offcamera.com.pl new. Films that won awards at international festivals, those Also, we will have a premiere of Michel Houellebecq’s directo- that we will be showing long lost and forgotten films that never

continued on page 13 ... www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 CityLife - 9

the month in events Cracow-Life.com

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SPECIAL EVENTS EASTER Easter in Poland remains a powerful experience, observed fastidiously - and with fantastic flair - by the majority of the populace. Besides the time-honoured processions, each individual parish becomes a hive Independent film festival of creativity, with Gróby Pańskie (Lord's Tombs) echoing Christ's Resurrection. On Holy Saturday, families put on their best togs for Świecone, the blessing of baskets of victuals. Easter Sunday revolves more around the home, whilst Monday sees a brash fair in Zwierzyniec, and the bonkers tradition of Śmigus Dyngus. The latter, also known as Lany Poniedziałek (Wet Monday), gives mischievous scamps carte blanche to drench unwitting punters. Our advice? Take a water Left: Splinterheads (2009) / Right: Zion and his Brother (2009) pistol for protection... when - 5th April until 14th April where - Various

RĘKAWKA FESTIVITIES Easter may technically be over but there's one more festivity to savour here in Krakow. Head down to the mythic mound of Prince Krak for a blast from the pagan past. The walk's well worth it. As of midday, hordes of pagans will be celebrating the ancient Cra- covian rite of Rękawka. Besides chanting And the Queue Still Goes on by Zbylut Grzywacz (1973) / National Museum in Krakow and dispensing festive victuals, the pagans will be putting on a jolly show, with sword- play and a full-blown camp replete with a when - Until 24th May HOUSE smithery and carpenters. Children love it. where - Czartoryski Museum (Arsenal), The main branch of the Ethnographic Get there at 12 to catch the ceremonial ul. Pijarska 8 Museum on Plac Wolnica has just emerged start. Catch a tram to Podgórze (No: 3, 6, from a revamp, but just an Easter egg's 8 - Korona stop) and walk across the new ZBYLUT GRZYWACZ (1934-2004) throw away you'll find this striking exhibition footbridge at ul. Dembowskiego. The first major retrospective of artist and at their sister branch. Instead of conjuring when - 14th April freedom-fighter Zbylut Grzywacz brings the past, "House" looks at folk dwellings of where - Kopiec Krakusa (The Mound of together some 400 paintings, sculptures, today, both in Poland and elsewhere. It's the Prince Krak), Podgórze photographs and sketches. A veteran of the pet project of ace photographers Weronika Solidarity struggle, Grzywacz was im- Łodzińska and Andrzej Kramarz. Find CRACOVIA MARATHON 2009 prisoned during martial law but became a out more by dropping into the Esterka House A 30,000 złoty prize awaits the proud win- full-fledged professor at Krakow's Academy at ul. Krakowska 46. ner, so if you feel like burning off all those of Fine Arts following the fall of the Iron when - 25th April until 30th August pierogi that you ploughed through this win- Curtain. His visceral, immediate style is sure where - Ethnographic Museum (Esterka ter, now's a fine time to get back into shape. to make for a provocative exhibition. Branch), ul. Krakowska 46 The race is set to start at 9:30 am and the when - Until 28th June fastest fellows should be hitting the finishing where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 FIRST STEP... line at about midday. Cheer them on as they A refreshing complement to all the earnest battle through town. REQUIEM FOR HIGHLAND SHELTERS nineteenth century outpourings upstairs, this when - 26th April Walking into the Ethnographic Museum is a show provides a dollop of what's been lacking where - Various bit like entering a Polish Alice in Wonder- in the National Museum: contemporary inter- land. Authentic folk interiors were cre- national art. "First Step" runs the gamut from EXHIBITIONS ated here by bona fide highland carpenters, Barcelo to Warhol, a veritable banquet and once inside, the city melts away. The for culture vultures to get their claws into. GUILT AND PUNISHMENT museum has a new spring in its step after when - Until August 31st Still from Johnny Mad Dog (2008) / directed by Jean-Stéphane Sauvaire, part of Off Plus Camera '09 Justice, the old-fashioned way, is the theme a redesign of several halls, and this season where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 of this gem of an exhibition on the Market they have an enchanting one-off exhibition Square. Prints by masters such as Dürer, to enjoy. "Requiem for Highland Shelters" THE OSKAR SCHINDLER FACTORY IN Brueghal, Rubens and Hogarth bring explores the vanishing world of Highland KRAKOW - HISTORY & FUTURE rial debut – Possibility of an Island. Furthermore, all the films the hand of the law to life. Catch the show shepherds and the wooden shelters that used The opening of the Schindler Factory to from our Competition section will have their Polish, if not Eu- before it closes on the 19th. to dot the hillsides until recent years. the general public has been years coming. ropean, premieres at Off Camera. when - Until 19th April when - Until 7th June Naturally, Spielberg's film generated world- where - International Cultural Centre, where - Ethnographic Museum, Plac Wolnica wide interest, yet the sheer vastness of the Which of those films are you most excited about? Rynek Główny 25

I am excited about every single one of those films. We have JACEK MALCZEWSKI (1854-1929) seen them all, we argued over them, fought to have some One of Poland's best-loved painters comes of them in the programme. It is difficult not to feel strongly into focus this month with the 80th anniver- about those films after all that. I am particularly excited about sary of the death of Jacek Malczewski. Johnny Mad Dog, the film that opens Off Camera. We saw it The National Museum has secured some of at Sundance and it made such a strong impression on us, we the painter's most celebrated canvases for knew we wanted to bring it to Poland straight away. It is an this show, including the explosive Melan- amazing piece about child-soldiers in Liberia, incredibly bru- cholia, a meditation on Poland's dismem- tal, realistic and also very important. Moreover, I am thrilled berment. Aside from all the worthy themes that we will be showing long lost and forgotten films that never behind them, these paintings are a joy to behold on the aesthetic level alone. Eighty years on from his death, Malczewski remains continued on page 13 ... as engaging as ever. (See feature on p. 6) "Pagans" celebrate Rękawka at the Krak Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) 10 - CityLife Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com

CULTURAL PARTNERS space has proved a stumbling block for the city authorities. However, on March 16th, the first wave of revitalisation was revealed. At present, a small exhibition focusing on the history of the factory can be explored. Later in the year, a fully interactive journey into the realities of Nazi – occupied Krakow will extend the experience. To get there, take a tram to Plac Bohaterów Getta. when - Until September where - Fabryka Schindlera, ul. Lipowa 4

MY NOWA HUTA - 1949-2009 Most Cracovians were mortified when building began on a Socialist realist "paradise" on the fringe of their city. The steelworks alone seemed liked an outrageous insult. Sixty years on and Nowa Huta - which became a surprise bastion of the Solidar- ity protest movement - seems poised for a renaissance. This major exhibition reflects on the construction and everyday life of one of the boldest urban projects in the Soviet Bloc. The freedom-fighting era also comes into focus. Love it or hate it, Nowa Huta is here to stay, and it's won its own place in the mythology of the region. Head over and see Self-Portrait with the River Vistula by Jacek Malczewski / National Museum in Krakow the "ideal city" for yourself. Video interviews in Polish. when - Until 19th September by Viktor Ullmann, the Czech-Jewish PERFORMANCE: ALINA ALENS where - Nowa Huta branch of Krakow His- protege of Schönberg and Zemlinsky. In celebration of the publication and torical Museum, os. Słoneczne 16 The SS banned the performance, suspecting release of her first book of poetry, The OPERA, THEATRE that the "Emperor" was modelled on Hitler Incomplete Fantasy We Call Love himself. The second spectacle is David Ed- / Niedokonczona fantazja zwana & DANCE dleman's Voices from the Holocaust, miloscia…, Hungarian writer and singer- an oratorium devoted to victims of the songwriter Alina Alens will be perform- OPERA: DON GIOVANNI Holocaust. The first performance will be on ing at Piec Art on 25 April at 8 pm. The The tale of the debauched Don is given a Sunday 20th, 6.30 pm. evening will include selected live readings modern spin in this fresh take on Mozart's when - From 20th April from the book, in both English and Polish, classic. The songs remain the same, but the where - Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 staged and performed by Ms. Alens and other cast will be sporting dapper clothes from special guests. Alina's band, ALENS, will today's wardrobes. Krakow's brand new opera GROTESKA: CHILDREN'S THEATRE & conclude the show in concert, performing house has three performances of the romp MORE original pop/rock music. lined up for April. Tickets range from 25 to The Ugly Duckling (Brzydkie when - 25th April 120 złoty. Kaczątko), Little Red Riding Hood where - Piec Art, ul. Szewska 12 when - 3rd, 4th & 5th April (Czerwony Kapturek) and Pan Twar- where - Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 dowski are amongst the treats in store this FILM April. The latter is a charming retelling of THE EMPEROR OF ATLANTIS & one of Krakow's favourite legends, in which a POLISH FILMS IN ENGLISH VOICES FROM THE HOLOCAUST nobleman cuts a deal with the Devil in order DVDs are all well and good, but there's no Late April sees the premiere of an unusual to obtain magic powers. Plenty of fun for substitute for the real McCoy. And luckily for double bill at the opera. The Emperor all the family. See Groteska's web page for a us, the cult Kino Pod Baranami is offer- of Atlantis (Der Kaiser von Atlantis) full programme from the master puppeteers. ing the chance to watch classic Polish movies was written in a Nazi concentration camp www.groteska.pl throughout spring. All come with English when - Throughout April subtitles so there's no need to worry about where - Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 getting lost in the linguistic realm. April has two tantalising treats in store. First up is the 34TH KRAKOW THEATRICAL recent Luiza's Garden (2007), an unlikely REMINISCENCES yet acclaimed romantic comedy involving a Devotees of avant-garde theatre have a gangster in a mental hospital. Next in line smorgasboard of drama in store with the is a classic from Andrzej Wajda, the king of return of Krakow Theatrical Reminiscences. Polish cinema. The Birch Wood (1970) This year's edition is running under the ban- will be screened on Tuesday 28th April, and ner of "polyphony >> consonance". Plenty of it takes us back to the world of the pre-war prestigious guests are in the pipeline, both intelligentsia. Check our website for updates from Poland and abroad, and audiences can on May's installments. expect inventive twists with dance thea- when - 14th April & 28th April tre elements, the use of new media, and where - Kino Pod Baranami, a rooting in music and rhythm. A real coup Rynek Główny 27 for the festival is the arrival of acclaimed Belgian crew Needcompany. The Belgian OFF PLUS CAMERA 2009 - FESTIVAL adventurers will be performing their smash OF INDEPENDENT CINEMA hit Isabella's Room, about an elderly New kid on the block Off Plus Camera lady battling with the past, as well as the has added a dash of fresh blood to Krakow's delightfully titled Ballad of Ricky and festival canon. Now in its second year, the Ronny. Other key KTR guests include the celluloid showdown offers a $100,000 prize Victoria Theatre from Ghent, and Hungarian to the bright young film-maker who can daz- hero Kornél Mundruczó, who'll be performing zle the judges. Championing independent his show in a giant metal box. For more info cinema from around the globe, the festival on all these and more, log on to the official also boasts retrospectives of pioneering films website at www.krt-festival.pl that have often been overlooked. Singularity when - 20th April until 26th April of vision is the key. (See feature on p. 8) where - Various when - 17th until 26th April Venizke, directed by Lies Pauwels and Ben where - Various Benaouisse, Krakow Theatrical Reminiscences / photo Phile Deprez www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 CityLife - 11

CLASSICAL HANDEL ANNIVERSARY CONCERT It's 250 years since Handel's state funeral in & WORLD MUSIC Westminster Abbey. Tribute concerts will be taking place around the world, and naturally, MISTERIA PASCHALIA 2009 Krakow's Philharmonic will be taking part. On In 2004, Krakow added a musical string to its Friday 24th and Saturday 25th of April, the Easter bow, and Holy Week is now comple- orchestra will be soaring through the great mented by a first class festival of classi- man's Messiah. Special guest is James cal greats. The sixth edition of Misteria Oxley from Great Britain, who'll be taking Paschalia will see performances from the on tenor duties. The Friday performance Venice Baroque Orchestra, Europa kicks off at 7 pm, Saturday's at 6 pm. Tickets Galante, Le Poeme Harmonique and 25 złoty. many more. As always the venues are win- when - 24th April & 25th April ners in themselves, including the Wieliczka where - Philharmonic Hall, Salt Mine, the brand new Opera House, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 and the Art Nouveau Franciscan Church. See the official site for more details. OPEN MIC AT CAFE SZAFE www.misteriapaschalia.pl The Open Mic Night is a monthly event dur- when - 6th April until 14th April ing which performers can get on stage and where - Various share their music. All musicians of all levels and attitudes are welcome. Cafe Szafe POLISH-ISRAELI CONCERT (located one block from Massolit Books) Some much-loved Jewish music will be provides a cosy stage, a full PA system, and given a twist tonight at the Galicia Mu- good beer, every first Sunday of the month. A seum. Konstantin Vilensky (piano) and great time is guaranteed, whether you come Anatolij Kogan (flute) are reinterpreting to play or just to listen. From 7 to 10 pm. time-honoured tunes with classical and jazz when - 5th April arrangements. Starts 7 pm, 20 zł. where - Cafe Szafe, ul. Felicjanek 10 when - 14th April where - Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18

ROYAL CASTLE CONCERT Head up the hillock to Wawel Castle, where you can savour sonatas by Bach and Han- del. Serene music in superlative surround- ings. Tickets 40 złoty, starts 7:30 pm. when - 15th April where - Wawel Royal Castle

RUSSIAN RHAPSODY Acclaimed Russian pianist Olga Kern will be performing alongside the Krakow Philharmonic this weekend with a foray into the realms of Rachmaninoff and Tchaikovsky. Rachmaninoff's Rhapsody on a theme of Paganini and his Piano Concerto No 3 in D Minor are in the pipeline, as well as Tchaikovsky's Romeo and Juliet Overture. Tickets 30 złoty. when - 17th & 18th April where - Philharmonic Hall, Open Mic at Cafe Szafe / photo Anna ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 Szwaja 12 - CityLife Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Club Life live music & clubbing Friday 3rd April Thursday 9th April Niepokorni We Versus The Shark Żaczek, ul. 3 Maja 5 Alchemia, ul. Estery 5 tagged: indie rock, post-rock, dreampop, folk-metal tagged: math rock, post-punk, indie This edition of the Niepokorni series brings some of the If you miss the good old days of B-Side Club, you might most interesting alternative music in Poland to Krakow. feel a little better after this gig. Dance elements meet First up are indie rockers Czelsi followed by a project math rock guitars, indie drumming, and post-punk vo- from Orchid and Happy Pills singer Nathalia Fiedorczuk cals in We Versus The Shark (left), meaning this night (below) - Nathalie and the Loners. Next up are War- at Alchemia is sure to feature an unusually high quan- saw post-rockers Gasoline, whose solid blend of jazz, tity of skinny clothing (ties, jeans, etc). Post-hardcore electronic and instrumental beats should have made UK rockers BlakFish are opening. Tickets 25 złoty. them famous ages ago. Żywiołak finish the show with their unique take on so-called "folk demonology" mixing together Celtic and Slavic folk with metal influences.

Thursday 16th April Friday 17th April O.S.T.R. The Complainer & The Complainers Rotunda, ul. Oleandry 1 Manggha, ul. M. Konopnickiej 26 tagged: hip-hop, jazz, soul tagged: avant-garde, DAT Politics, Felix Kubin Despite being one of the top hip-hop artists in Poland, This quirky group, fronted by the chief complainer O.S.T.R. (far right) has fought hard to retain his un- himself, Wojtek Kucharczyk (owner of the mik.music.! derground image and is well-respected for his lyrical label), perform with a somewhat shockingly avant- flow, impressive freestyle skills, mellow beats, and garde approach, while retaining relatively classic song jazz-influenced samples. "Ostry" has been active since structures. Their electronic-influenced art rock debut- the 1990s and since joining Asfalt records has been pro- ed in 2007 with a well-received self-titled album, and ducing albums at a dizzying pace. Joining him are Polish will be enhanced at this performance by the O'SKUAd soul and r&b group Sofa, along with DJ Haem and Ko- String Quartet. chan. And if you're lucky, you might just get the special treat of seeing Ostry jamming on his electric violin.

Wednesday 22nd April Thursday 23rd April Under Byen Handsome Furs Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4 Klub RE, ul. św. Krzyża 4 tagged: Efterklang, Audrey, post-rock tagged: Wolf Parade, Islands, electro-indie rock It's nearly impossible to accurately describe in words the unique music produced by this talented Danish band. This month will, oddly enough, see visits by two side Under Byen (below) have created a niche in the experimental music market - a kind of atmospheric post-rock projects of Montreal band Wolf Parade - Handsome without guitars. In fact, the instrumentation is based much more on piano, string, brass, and wind instruments, Furs and Sunset Rubdown. First up are Handsome Furs, along with bass and percussion. Another vital factor in Under Byen's sound is the voice of singer Henriette Sennen- who have just released their second LP, Face Control, valdt, which recalls the voice of Bjork, Emiliana Torrini or Hanne Hukkelberg. Their career began in 1999 with the on Sub Pop to great reviews among the Pitchforks and release of Kyst, which received rave reviews by the Danish press. Their popularity skyrocketed internationally with Stereogums of the world. Alexei Perry on electronics the release of their following two albums - Det Er Mig Der Holder Traeerne Sammen in 2002 and Samme Stof Som and Dan Boekner (of Wolf Parade) on vocals and guitar Stof in 2006. Fans of the band have included the late John Peel as well as Rolling Stone journalist David Fricke, are the hip husband and wife team behind this indie- who in 2003 called Under Byen "probably the best band in the world." Sure to be one of the top Krakow concerts dance project. of the year.

Friday 24th April Friday 24th April Goldie The Magic Carpathians Project Rotunda, ul. Oleandry 1 Ptasiek Cafe, ul. Dajwór 3 tagged: drum n' bass, jungle tagged: experimental folk, psychedelic, Kam- Legendary drum n' bass producer Goldie (above) will merflimmer Kollektief be hitting Krakow this month at Rotunda Club. With The Magic Carpathians are Anna Nacher and Marek no known releases planned for the near future, we'll Styczyński of Krakow. Over their 14 years of activity assume this visit is just to quench our thirst for a bit of they have released 10 recordings and their experimen- 1995. Fine by us! Travel back for a night of UK beats, tal ambient music has been recognised by such institu- basslines and soulful vocals, like the hit from Goldie's tions as the SXSW Festival and The Wire magazine. A Timeless album, "Inner City Life." A set of grills and a lot about their style can be read from the name - "Mag- gold chain will have you fitting in nicely. ic" points towards their psychedelic tendencies and "Carpathians" calls to mind the folk music of Central and Eastern Europe. A local gem worth checking out.

Friday 24th April Tuesday 28th April Wednesday 29th April Marcin Czubala Pivot Sunset Rubdown Mish Mash, ul. Mostowa 2 Alchemia, ul. Estery 5 Manggha, ul. M. Konopnickiej 26 tagged: minimal techno, Berlin, minimal house tagged: post-rock, electro, experimental tagged: indie rock, electro, Wolf Parade, Clap If you like your beats a little more modern, check out Just mentioning the words Warp Records is enough Your Hands Say Yeah Marcin Czubala from Poznań, who has been making to send many scurrying directly to the ticket queue, This one is the second Wolf Parade related gig in Kra- quite the reputation for himself since his 2008 release and luckily the legendary label hasn't let us down this kow this month, with Sunset Rubdown (right) having on Berlin label Mobilee, Chronicles of Never. As one time either by signing these Australian post-rockers been founded by member Spencer Krug. Sunset Rub- of the most famous international DJs hailing from Po- in 2008. Their approach to the genre has a seemingly down's forthcoming album Dragonslayer (to be re- land, his beats will surely have you bouncing on the endless list of influences from math rock, noise and leased in June 2009) is already much anticipated and dance floor 'til dawn. jazz, meaning you won't be stuck at Alchemia with an- the gig will surely feature a few new tracks. Opening other loud/soft post-rock cliche. are Krakow post-rockers New Century Classics. Tickets: 30-35 złoty. www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 CityLife - 13 Posted

...off camera from page 8 made it to Polish cinemas. Films that won nu- watch something and we immediately fall in love merous awards all over the world, ones that are with it. Other times, films simply grow on us af- often considered groundbreaking. Among others, ter the screening. we will show Beijing Bicycle (Silver Bear, Berlin 2001), Forty Shades of Blue (Grand Jury Prize, How did the films that premièred at the first Sundance 2005), On connaît la chanson (Césars edition of the festival last year do later on? Did 1998) and Swoon (Teddy Award, Berlin 1992). any go on to get wider fame? Polish audiences have not had the chance to see quite a few of these great films. I’m very happy The winner of Off Camera 2008, Azazel Jacobs’ that we can bring some of those titles to Kra- Momma’s Man, went on to win a number of im- kow. portant awards at various international festivals (including Special Jury Prize at IFF in Boston), Since the festival emphasises young and un- Alex Holdrige won the prestigious John Cassave- known filmmakers, how do you decide whose tes Award for hisIn Search of a Midnight Kiss at works to show? this year’s Independent Spirit Awards, Lance Hammer’s Ballast won the Breakthrough Direc- We look for independent and coherent visions. tor trophy at Gotham Independent Awards 2008. We value those filmmakers who have something interesting to say and who are able to express Besides Poland, which countries will be repre- themselves well in a structured manner (even if sented at this year’s festival? this means a deliberate lack of structure). Hav- ing a few ideas is not enough for a feature-length The list is long but I will name a few countries film – this is often the problem with first-time that I can remember: France, Italy, Denmark, directors. Also, we look for films that are dar- Belgium, USA, Mexico, Argentina, Colombia, ing – in terms of their visual qualities, themes, Canada, Iceland, Israel, Brazil, Ireland, Russia, approach or perspective. There is no predeter- Japan, New Zealand, Spain, India, Germany… mined method of choosing films. Sometimes we And there are more!

Who are some of the directors and actors we can expect to see at the festival?

We were really lucky that our invitations were accepted by such people as the legend of the French New Wave, Anna Karina, Seymour Cassel – an actor who worked with many independent filmmakers, including John Cassavetes, Gregg Araki and Tom Kalin – two of the most important directors of the New Queer Cinema movement. Also, directors and various members of cast and crew will represent all the competition films – there will be Q&A sessions after all the competition screenings.

Will there be any accompanying events alongside the film showings?

Yes, we are preparing a number of panel discussions, Q&A sessions, workshops, lectures, concerts and exhibitions. We would like to take full advantage of the presence of our remarkable guests and it is important for us to give our audiences an opportunity to meet them and to be able to ask them questions.

How did you happen to have a partnership with the Sundance Film Festival this year? What does that entail?

I think we managed to convince them that our interest in Sundance was genuine: cinema - rather than money-related. Also, the fact that we previously worked with Mike Plante and Trevor Groth, who programmed for Sundance, made the difference. Moreover, thanks must go to the persistence of our Communication Director, who did not take no for an answer!

We are very happy that this affiliation is not just on paper – we will be presenting a strand consisting of the most interesting films discovered at Sundance over the last 25 years.

What do want to happen in the future for the festival?

I hope the festival will grow bigger and that we will be able to bring more significant films to Zion and his Brother (2009) Krakow. I also hope that we will be able to help directed byEran Merav more talented film-makers break through and www.zion-and-his-brother-movie.mk2.com have a successful career. 14 - CityLife Krakow Post APRIL 2009 www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Reviews

FILM FLASHBACK REEL LIFE

The Black Series (Czarna Seria) Brideshead Revisited (Powrót do Brideshead) DVD published by One visit too many Polskie Wydawnictwo Audiowizualne (www.pwa.gov.pl) Wandering into the cinema I was still in two minds as to Over a year ago the Polish Audiovisual Publishing House (Polskie Wydawnictwo Audiowizualne) began whether to catch Brideshead Revisited or The Wrestler. its excellent series of box sets of Polish documentaries. They kicked off with early Kieślowski films, However, there was a 30 minute delay for Mickey, so I followed closely by Kazimierz Karabasz's groundbreaking pieces, and recently this curiosity appeared ended up with the former. A cretinous mistake. Barely had – The Black Series. It is a strange brew - into the neat vodka of the official Socialist propaganda is the opening credits finished rolling when the tedium set added a dash of poetic observation, perhaps showing the influences of Britain's Free Cinema School in. Before long, I was praying that Mr Rourke would come (Mama Don't Allow by Karel Reisz [1956], or Lindsay Anderson's O Dreamland made in 1953), progres- bounding onto the screen in his flourescent lycra and start sively steering these films closer to our modern understanding of documentary as an observational whirling the Brideshead cast around like a crazed juggler slice of life. But what a genius way to spread propaganda in the snug, soma-dripping atmosphere of of men. a cinema! Sadly, Julian Jarrold has created a rather dull, uninvolving film that's pretty to look at but lacking in punch. This is a great shame as the material is juicy enough. Evelyn Waugh's original novel has never been out of print since it was first published in 1945. It tells the story of Charles Ryder, an aspiring painter who gets tangled up with a grand Catholic dynasty. War, religion, debauchery, unrequited love, the collapse of the old order: these are all meaty themes.

Evelyn Waugh's hallmarks are his wit and his head-spinning flair for the absurd. He loved caricatures. But this scathing sense of satire is in short supply in Jarrold's film. The cast does a workmanlike job with what they've been given. But it seems hard to really care about any of the characters in this film. One of the problems is that a plot which stretches across two decades is compressed into two hours. Brides- head Revisited has been filmed before, and the last director to have a go released the film in eleven episodes, with seven hours of total footage. That earlier version may have been mannered, but it had towering performances and pa- nache - a genuine sense of tragedy unfolded.

Unfortunately, the latest version seems like just another blip in what's been derisively dubbed the Laura Ashley school of film-making. Everything is in terribly good taste, but style triumphs over sub- stance. In fact, the look of Brideshead is so similar to Atonement that it feels as if the film has been made by exactly the same crew, only that this time they smoked too much grass to get it right. The The City on Islands (1958) directed by Jerzy Dmowski i Bohdan Kosiński whole thing floats by like a dreamy gondola ride. But there should have been sharks in the water, / Polskie Wydawnictwo Audiowizualne imperilling the vessel.

Nick Hodge In the earliest film Look out, Hooligans! (1955), the directors Hoffman and Skórzewski creepily warn us, through dramatic reconstructions, about the dangers of wide-eyed youth falling in with bad company. And for a number of years Poland was representated through these "Black" documentaries as a state of extreme contrasts. Lublin is an elegant city of palaces,but primarily it is a danger zone where babies crawl on balconies on the verge of collapse. Our commentator's voice is heavily ironic: "Look how these enchanting rubbles have been preserved...they date back to the times of Biernat of SHELF IMPROVEMENT Lublin!" Are You Among Them? (1954) curiously condemns gossiping women who burn their husbands' soup and in leaving taps running cause a loss of water that could fill 4000 swimming pools. (Perhaps A History of Krakow for Everyone by Jan M. Małecki drinking, hooliganism, time-wasting and crime were indeed counter-revolutionary forces as much as Krakow for Beginners demonstration.)

Among all the studies devoted to the history of Krakow, Jan M. Małecki’s A History of Krakow for Ev- Nevertheless, it seems strange that propaganda should show this incredible poverty; perhaps they eryone is a real gem. Why? Counting only about 300 pages, this book touches on all of the important are showing the urgency for change, and so they pose problems which are not resolved. It must be historical events that have established the city as we see it today, without getting too entangled in remembered that this is a time when much of Warsaw still lay in post-war ruins, as shown in The City historical-political details and dates; and what’s more important – taking legends into consideration. on Islands (1958). The film about new developments in Nowa Huta, for example, focuses not on the And as it happens, Małecki is an experienced author, a professor no less, who has written weighty successes, but on the failure to deliver the promise of housing for all the factory workers. historical tomes about Krakow’s past. In a nutshell, readers can trust that this is not just more story- telling for ignorant foreigners. The sea-change occurs on DVD 2 when in the newsreel The Great Gathering Gomułka, the new leader of the Polish United Workers Party, is seen addressing 400,000 people on 24th October 1956 at a rally The book is divided into eleven parts, corresponding to natural divisions in the city’s history. The in Warsaw, delivering a speech on the future of Polish socialism. This marked the beginning of the author starts by establishing the origins of Krakow, using all available scientific and historical facts, political thaw in Poland which came in the wake of Stalin's death and the riots in Poznań. Thus the while adding some urban legends and explaining their possible origins. Then the readers are taken subsequent films on the DVD are infected with a new raw optimism and individualism, qualitatively through the medieval and Renaissance times of Krakow’s growth, and we learn why Krakow lost its different from the "Black Series." Karabasz's From Powiśle is more a poetic observation of a Warsaw power and influence later on. The 20th century period covers independence in the 1920s and 30s, still lost in time, but where the scars of WWII remain evident. Jerzy Hoffman's Sopot 1957 portrays a the Nazi occupation and the period of the People’s Republic, ending with the years 1989 – 1990. Pos- decadent summer idyll – jazz concerts, beach games, beauty contests, sexual innuendo – in such be- sibly superfluous complexities of Polish and European history are mentioned only when they directly witching images that it is tempting to watch at half-speed with the cheery commentary killed off. The influence the city’s fate; the focus of the book is more on the everyday life of Krakow’s society. To lights have been turned on and the troubled grey face of struggling Socialism has been rejuvenated. render the atmosphere of a certain epoch, Małecki quotes original sources, urban anecdotes and songs, and to help the readers imagine events better he connects them with preserved monuments Above all - these films are time-capsules, containing tantalising traces of Polish lives of which we will and available sites. A calendar of events at the end of the book can satisfy more detail-demanding only ever be distant observers. readers. All in all, A History of Krakow for Everyone is required reading for both those who want to consider the city their hometown and those who would like to present their family and friends with Available on DVD with English subtitles from all major DVD outlets. a quality souvenir.

Stuart Wilson Grażyna Zawada www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com Krakow Post APRIL 2009 CityLife - 15 Last Page

ASTRO SELTZER SUDOKU

ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) Your biggest surprise, this month, comes from you! Itching to get the ball rolling, you To play: Complete the grid so that every throw caution to the wind and choose the unknown over security. A recent creative row, column and every 3 x 3 box contains the block is about to break, permitting you to put all your weird brainstorms to use. The digits 1 to 9. There is no guessing or maths downside is that no one in your world will be able to keep up with you. Aries plant: involved, just use logic to solve. aromatic basil suits your straightforward personality.

TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) CAPRICORN (Dec 21 - Jan 19) Whatever you do or say will Sure, you're reliable, ethical Avoid gossips and scandal- be noticed and catalogued for and astoundingly loyal. But, mongers like the plague! This future reference by curious you'd rather eat nails than al- month, you're in danger of observers. This month, you low anyone to take advantage being misquoted by people attract people's unbridled of your innate innocence. This who are dying to make you interest - both positively and negatively. Grow- month, you hit the roof in fine style when you look bad. Odd political machinations have been ing self-confidence and a recently discovered discover that you've been duped by a trusted occurring behind your back and will definitely awareness of your destiny have conspired to put confidant. Don't get bitter: get even! Virgo result in nothing good. Capricorn plant: chamo- you in the spotlight. Be prepared for your share plant: obsessed with your breath, subtly sweet mile will soothe your jittery tummy. of controversy. Taurus plant: horny goat weed – mint will keep nasty odours at bay. for obvious reasons. AQUARIUS (Jan 20 - Feb 18) LIBRA (Sep 23 - Oct 22) In your own quiet way, you've GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) With so much on your profes- been working terribly hard to Disturbed by our socially-sanc- sional plate, it's little wonder keep your head above water. tioned culture of cut-throat that you're a bit shaky. Afraid Never forget that, while it's business behaviour, you've been to say no to anyone, you've wonderful to share, what's considering packing it in and let things pile up to a wicked yours is yours. This month, you may have to put reinventing your life. That, of course, is more degree. Wrestle your life back by making a your foot solidly down when an inappropriately easily said than done. However, whenever an list of what you can and cannot do. Then, tell ambitious type tries to move into your territory. idea worms its way into your head, you rarely people how they can help you. Libra plant: St. Aquarius plant: calming Valerian brings relief let it go. Taking stock of your multiple talents John's wort – nature's Prozac - will keep you on from insomnia. will permit you to plan your next step. Gemini an even keel. plant: lavender helps calm your bouncing brain. PISCES (Feb 19 – March 19) SCORPIO (Oct 23 - Nov 21) A bit of a space cadet at the CANCER (Jun 21 – Jul 22) Shocked by your own randiness best of times, you're surpris- Being wrong is not the same and a recent devil-may-care ingly clear-headed in an as being stupid. This month, approach to life, you won- emergency. This month, you when forced to re-evaluate an der if you're losing your grip. perform a wonderful job of assumption or two, you could Definitely not! Good behaviour keeping people from freaking out in the midst turn rather sour. Actually, and selflessness have definitely not paid off. of a crisis. Impressed "superiors" will subse- you're being saved by the proverbial bell: your So, dive into your own thoughts, feelings and quently pinpoint you for a promotion. Pisces seemingly efficiently-run existence needs a jolt impressions and carry on from there. Scorpio plant: lemon balm will lift your periodically low of the unexpected that will allow more fun, plant: garlic will keep all systems running spirits. romance and general sexiness into your life. super-smoothly. Cancer plant: sage will help keep your formida- Krakow Post’s astrology column is for enter- ble memory in tip-top shape. SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) tainment purposes only, and the Post is not An unexpected trip happens in responsible for any consequences incurred as a LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) the nick of time. The demands result of this column. Bumping into an unpleasant truth, of hearth and home have been Written by Kerwin McLeister, you debate whether to keep it getting on your nerves, mak- [email protected] secret or go public: someone has ing you uncharacteristically been less than honest in your pro- irritable. It's time for you to fessional circle, playing with facts spend time with strangers who and figures in a dangerous manner. In the end, will remind you that you're exciting, interest- you'll do exactly the right thing – whatever that ing and a tad mad. Sagittarius plant: expensive is. Leo's plant: the smell of exotic frankincense and beautiful, saffron matches your eclectic moves you to contemplate the universe. personality. Star-Signs drawn by Dominik Nawrocki

TRIPS OFF THE TONGUE

Grażyna Zawada sudoku solutions

Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? The Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons, which should prove useful when learning this beautiful language, as prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher.

Easter in Poland shmeen-gus deen-gus/, which is basically drench- ing girls/women with buckets of water, or in the This month, the Krakow Post wants to give you more modern fashion, shooting them with water some tips concerning the upcoming period of pistols, on Easter Monday. According to tradition, Easter - in Polish ‘Wielkanoc’ /veel’kha-notz/, the girls who get the most soaked on that day are meaning ‘the great night’. To wish ‘Happy Eas- considered the prettiest and most desirable for ter’ you say ‘Wesołych Świąt’ /veh-so-wikch marriage; however if some ladies prefer a clas- shfont/. In Poland this holiday has its own tradi- sic, water-free pick-up, you can say ‘Nie polewaj tions, one of which is painting eggs into ‘pisanki’ mnie’ /ni-ay poh-leh-veye mni-ay/, possible add- /pee-sankhee/ (singular ‘pisanka’ /pee-sankha/) ing an insult of your choice. that symbolize vitality. Another tradition is ‘Lany Poniedziałek’ (Wet Monday) or ‘śmigus-dyngus’ /