Buyingguide September2020

BUYINGGUIDE SEPTEMBER2020

THIS MONTH

2 AUSTRIA 34 ALSACE 41 LOIRE VALLEY 47 RHÔNE VALLEY 56 PROVENCE 57 OTHER FRANCE 57 SPAIN 60 BAROLO 77 GREECE 80 ROMANIA 81 ISRAEL 81 SOUTH AFRICA 84 NEW ZEALAND 87 CHILE 90 CALIFORNIA 116 WASHINGTON 121 COLORADO 122 NEW YORK 127 OTHER AMERICA 127 OTHER GLOBAL 129 SPIRITS 131 BEER

A castle ruin among vineyards in Wachau, Austria

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS ALAMY.COM WINEMAG.COM | 1

Starfield 2018 Roussanne (El Dorado). This Peachy Canyon 2018 Petite Sirah (Paso 92 mouthfilling, full-bodied wine is rich in tex- 92 Robles). Heavy aromas of roasted coffee, ture yet well balanced by lifted acidity. It offers a soy-crusted-beef roast and a light brush of purple delicious range of creamy fruit and toasted flavors flowers make for a savory nose in this bottling. The that expand on the palate and linger on the finish. wine lands smoothly on the palate, with just enough A generous 23% of Viognier was blended in. —J.G. Balistreri 2018 Talbott Vineyard Petite Sirah tannins to hold up the blackberry, purple flower abv: 14.3% Price: $28 91 (Grand Valley). The nose of this wine is and pepper flavors, finishing with a vanilla-caramel loaded with cracked black pepper, cherry and black swirl. —M.K. raspberry aromas. The palate is juicy in cherry and abv: 14.5% Price: $40 pomegranate flavors, with intense notes of clove and black pepper chiming in while the tannins offer a velvety texture. The finish is all tart cranberry and mulling spices. —F.A. abv: 15.2% Price: $48

Viña Tarapacá 2018 Gran Reserva Etiqueta 92 Negra Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Full and complex aromas of hot stones, black fruit, Peachy Canyon 2018 The Odd One (Adelaida wood spice and char are compelling in front of a 92 District). Bright, fresh aromas of raspberry youthful palate. Blackberry, coffee, chocolate and and hibiscus make for a zesty entry on the nose of peppery wood-spice flavors hum with residual ripe- this atypical blend of 62% Zinfandel, 15% Carignan, berry notes on a deep finish. Drink from 2021–2028. 15% Counoise and 8% Petite Sirah. The palate is MundoVino–Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.S. refreshing in flavors of black raspberry compote, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Black Stallion 2016 Gaspare Vineyard Estate fennel pollen and peppery spices that would sing 91 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll Dis- even with a slight chill. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. trict). Black olive and a hint of gamy meat highlight abv: 14.4% Price: $40 a silky-smooth, well-integrated core in this single- vineyard wine. Crushed rock, black cherry, currant and toasted oak characterize all of its layers. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $75

Williams Selyem 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 92 County). Light and delicately woven in flavors of clove, nutmeg and blue fruit, this approach- Scheid 2017 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir able wine is sourced from vineyards in the Russian 92 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Quite light in the River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations. It glass, this single-vineyard expression offers aromas brings together lush richness and cool-climate acid- of wild cherry, dried sage, tarragon, crushed stone ity with ease. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Clay Shannon 2018 El Coyote Chardonnay and root beer on the nose. The palate is ripe yet bal- abv: 13.9% Price: $39 91 (Red Hills). This richly textured and subtly anced, with flavors of cherry juice, vanilla bean, star spicy wine is full in feel and mouthcoating. It’s laced anise and dried ginger. —M.K. with flavors of nutmeg, vanilla and toasted baguette abv: 14.9% Price: $75 that are tempting and sophisticated. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 13 tannin structure stitches it all together. Coffee notes Aspen Peak 2019 Riesling (Colorado). Ripe and severely tart, it ends on a zingy orange zest tone. linger on the finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 87 peach, clementine and pear aromas are mel- —F.A. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 low on the nose. On the off-dry palate, Valencia abv: 13.3% Price: $28 orange, peach and Key lime pie filling meet saline Two Vintners 2017 Zinfandel (Wahluke minerality. Cheerful acidity keeps this sunny and The Infinite Monkey Theorem 2018 Sauvi- 92 Slope). Appealing, hyperpure aromas of boisterous through the lingering, juicy peach and 85 gnon Blanc-Semillon (Grand Valley). Orange cranberry, raspberry and spice are followed by rich, mandarin finish. —F.A. peels and blossoms meet dried grass on the nose. full-bodied, layered, palate-coating red fruit flavors abv: 12.5% Price: $17 The dry, astringent palate layers in orange, canta- that lead to a long warm, finish. It’s everything there loupe, Bartlett pear and lemon pith, with a hint of is to love about this variety. Zinophiles, this one is The Storm Cellar 2018 Riesling (West Elks). grassiness introducing the tart citrus finish. —F.A. for you. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 86 White peach, pink grapefruit and river rock abv: 12.8% Price: $20 abv: 16.5% Price: $29 aromas are quiet and subdued. Canary melon and more ripe white peach show on the off-dry palate, Carboy 2018 Albariño (Grand Valley). Aro- Balboa 2015 Carmenère (Walla Walla Valley). while lemony acidity keeps it feeling brisk. —F.A. 82 mas of orange peels and blossoms are joined 91 This variety is often noted for its green char- abv: 12.6% Price: $20 by dry citrus pith, pink grapefruit and beach grass acteristics but, coming from the warmest vintage on the palate. The grass and pith notes turn bitter that the state has seen, this wine is very much not The Winery At Holy Cross Abbey NV Riesling on the finish. —F.A. that. All coming from Summit View Vineyard, it 86 (Colorado). Very closed at first, this needs abv: 13.8% Price: $24 has appealing aromas of black pepper, jam, whiffs time to breathe before peach and pear aromas of jalapeño and black fruit, followed by rich, full- emerge. The simple, off-dry palate offers lychee, bodied dark-fruit flavors with plentiful peppery peach and apricot flavors alongside juicy acidity. RED BLENDS accents. It’s a hedonistic delight, a full-throttle The finish dries into an apple tone. —F.A. interpretation of this variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 11.4% Price: $19 Mesa Park NV Barn Owl Red (Grand Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $45 90 Black currant, blackberry and plum aromas Plum Creek 2017 Riesling (Colorado). The are joined by toasted oak, coffee and vanilla on the Kerloo 2017 Tempranillo (Columbia Valley). 81 pleasant, citrusy aroma is subdued. The pal- nose. The palate echoes the black fruit notes, with 91 All of the Tempranillo for this wine comes ate is off dry in style, layered with peach and honey- cocoa powder and charred meat adding a sanguine from StoneTree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, dew melon, but the astringent acidity adds a bitter character. Dusty tannins are balanced by tart red with a dash (13%) of Cabernet Sauvignon from Dio- pith element that fights rather than harmonizes. plum acidity. A spinkling of black pepper and wood nysus on the White Bluffs. Aged in 30% new French It finishes with candied lemon peel and a touch of smoke extend on the finish. —F.A. oak, bringing out aromas offering notes of vanilla, grapefruit. —F.A. abv: 14% Price: $28 sweet spice, fresh tobacco and cherry. Smooth abv: 12.9% Price: $NA sinewy flavors follow, sprinkled with ample barrel Restoration NV Proprietor’s Blend Red Wine spicing. It’s a compelling offering of this variety. 89 (Grand Valley). Bright cranberry and red Editors’ Choice. —S.S. SAUVIGNON BLANC plum embrace violet and savory herbs on the nose. abv: 14.3% Price: $32 Gentle tannic grip provides structured, matched by Buckel Family Wine 2018 Sauvignon Blanc juicy acidity on the palate where ripe black cherry Two Vintners 2017 Make Haste Olsen Vineyard 85 (Colorado). Fresh cut grass, white blossom and cranberry meld with vanilla, oak and bay leaf 91 Cinsault (Yakima Valley). This rare offering and grapefruit aromas introduce the tart and zesty tones. The finish is long and bright, lingering on of Cinsault from the state is a consistent standout palate. Bright lime and grapefruit flavors turn juic- white pepper and cranberry. —F.A. and a great value to boot. Here, the aromas intrigue, ier towards the finish, ending on Key lime and hay abv: 13.8% Price: $28 with notes of raspberry, white pepper, iron, smoked tones. —F.A. meat and cherry candy. The soft, textured red fruit abv: 13.8% Price: $19 Sutcliffe NV Katrin & Christoph’s Dunton and herb flavors are light, juicy and bright. It’s all 89 Reserve (Colorado). Aromas of black plum about delicacy, purity and detail, with a warm fin- Grande River 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Grand and chocolate are accented by creosote on the nose. ish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 84 Valley). A quiet nose blends lemon and Black cherry and black plum flavors are backed by abv: 15.1% Price: $25 white flower tones. This is simple and tart, with tart, juicy acidity and joined by vanilla, baking spice astringent acidity on the palate that drives flavors and tree bark. The tannins are firm and grippy, Skagit Crest 2016 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir of lemon, lime and white grapefruit. —F.A. propping up a spicy pepper and black cherry finish. 84 (Puget Sound). The aromas bring notes of abv: 12% Price: $16 —F.A. coriander, potpourri, dried orange rind and cran- abv: 14.3% Price: $52 berry with the light palate showing more of the Plum Creek 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Colo- same. It’s more interesting than successful. —S.S. 83 rado). White grapefruit and lemon pith aro- Sutcliffe NV Torrid II Reserved (Colorado). abv: 13% Price: $27 mas are accented by dandelion greens. The palate is 89 The nose combines black currant and loaded with grapefruit and zingy acidity, with light blackberry with white pepper and sarsaparilla. grassy notes ending on a zesty lemon note. —F.A. Blackberry and black cherry are ripe yet full of tart, COLORADO abv: 13.4% Price: $NA refreshing acidity, with accents of peppery spice and tobacco. Dry tannins offer a sandy texture and RIESLING plenty of structure. Bitter oak reveals itself on the OTHER WHITE WINES finish showing plenty of tang and pepper. —F.A. The Storm Cellar 2018 Dry Riesling (West abv: 14.2% Price: $48 88 Elks). A quiet nose offers aromas of orange Carboy 2018 Blan.CO White Blend (Grand pith, white blossom and lemon. The palate is bright 86 Valley). Quiet, chalky mineral aromas intro- Aspen Peak 2018 Vintner’s Reserve Rockin’ with zesty acidity and light lemon and grass flavors. duce flavors of white peach and juicy, fresh lemon 87 Rapids (Colorado). A savory nose blends aro- Refreshing and delicate, it offers beauty in its sim- on an easy, straight-forward palate. Neutral, light mas of black plum, black currant, dried herbs and plicity. —F.A. white pepper. The palate is voluptuous in feel, offer- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 ing rich black plum, vanilla, nutmeg and smoke. The

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BUYINGGUIDE tannins are grippy, round acidity filling it out. The with earthy clove. Easy and approachable, the finish dry finish polishes the tannins and ends on tones of lingers on lingonberry and pepper. —F.A. NEW YORK dark chocolate and thyme. —F.A. abv: 14.9% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 GEWÜRZTRAMINER Snowy Peaks 2016 Tempranillo (Grand Val- Sutcliffe 2016 Telluride (Colorado). The nose 88 ley). Fresh cut firewood and steak tartare Keuka Spring 2018 Gewürztraminer (Finger 87 blends aromas of raspberry, blackberry and aromas meet tart cranberry and red currant on the 91 Lakes). Enveloping aromas of melon and black plum with rubber tire and jalapeño. The tan- nose. These tones echo on the palate, supported by papaya meld with spicy elements of crushed pink nins are sandy and structured, with lilting acidity black pepper and oak flavors. Soft, velvety tannins peppercorn and ginger on the nose. The silken pal- and flavors of tart dark berry, cinnamon, cedar and and lean acidity create a well rounded and balanced ate shows creamy melon and peach flavors, studded charred meat. A creosote note introduces the dry structure. —F.A. with kicks of fiery spice and orange blossom. The tannic finish, with lingering fruit flavors and pep- abv: NA Price: $27 floral tones linger gracefully on the finish. —A.P. pery accents. —F.A. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.6% Price: $48 Sutcliffe 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colo- 88 rado). Rich pomegranate, blackberry and Dr. Konstantin Frank 2018 Reserve Gewürz- Plum Creek NV Palisade Red (Colorado). plum aromas are sprinkled with spicy pepper and 90 traminer (Finger Lakes). Sourced from Sun- 85 Barnyard notes lead the nose yet blend tobacco. Lip-smacking acidity adds energy to vel- rise Hill Vineyard on the west side of Cayuga Lake, with vanilla, pepper, bay leaf and thyme. The pal- vety tannins. Tart cranberry and raspberry flavors this rich white offers notes of ripe pineapple, pink ate shows earthy and oaky tones of tobacco, cigar meld with savory spice and peppercorn, leading to a grapefruit and juiced ginger on the cohesive nose. box vanilla and root beer that carry over subtle fla- tangy finish that’s laced with raw oak tones. —F.A. The off-dry palate is rounded and ripe in juicy tropi- vors of blueberry and black currant. The tannins are abv: 14.5% Price: $36 cal fruit and melon flavors, with gentle kicks of pep- velvety, but show some grit on the finish alongside pery spice and ginger adding depth. It’s creamy yet peppery spice and blackberry. —F.A. Balistreri 2018 CVS Vineyard Petit Verdot well balanced, honed by integrated acidity and a abv: 13.4% Price: $NA 85 (Colorado). Tart, crunchy cranberry and gentle grip of white tea. —A.P. red apple meet brisk sage, eucalyptus, bell pepper abv: 12% Price: $20 Turquoise Mesa Winery 2017 TMW Reserve and subtle barnyard notes. The tannins are dusty 84 (Colorado). Aromas of black currant and and mellow, yet balanced acidity delivers flavors of Sheldrake Point 2017 Estate Bottled black cherry are joined by green tobacco, green black currant, lingonberry and goji that are blended 90 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Aromas of peppercorn and a hit of menthol on the nose. Black with allspice, bitter chocolate and oak. —F.A. milky white blossoms and ginger are at the fore, plum and cherry make up the fruit components of abv: 15% Price: $48 with a solid base of creamy melon. This is rich and the palate, followed by vanilla, tobacco and cedar silken in feel, offering a luxurious palate of melon tones. Tart berry acidity vies with powdery tannins Turquoise Mesa Winery 2016 Chambour- and white plum, lifted by accents of peppery spice that carry tingling spice. The acidity turns tangy on 84 cin (Colorado). The nose blends aromas of and flowers. Grapefruit bitters add a bit of astrin- the finish and the fruit steps aside to the oak tones. cherry, blueberry, sweet baking spice, vanilla and gency to help firm up the close. —A.P. —F.A. cola. Cherry, strawberry and cranberry flavors are abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.8% Price: $30 backed by tingling spice and vanilla on the palate. Tart acidity and soft, powdery tannins are dis- Lakewood 2018 Gewürztraminer (Finger Carboy NV Claim 18 Vin ’59 (Grand Valley). jointed, making the wine feel thin. —F.A. 89 Lakes). Brisk aromas of yellow apple and 83 Aromas of roast beef, hickory and campfire abv: 13.5% Price: $18 pink grapefruit are lively and fresh on the nose. form the nose. The savory palate offers ripe plum, There’s a rounded, creamy feel to the melon and blackberry, cedar and vanilla, joined by grippy Turquoise Mesa Winery 2017 Petite Pearl apple flavors on the palate, with accents of juiced tannins and mellow acidity. Smoke and oak tones 83 (Colorado). Foxy and brambly on the nose, ginger and crushed pepper arising on the midpalate. emerge on the peppery finish. —F.A. the palate is loaded with spice, pomegranate and It all mellows onto a cohesive finish. —A.P. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 wild raspberry. There is some grip to the crushed abv: 13.2% Price: $15 velvet tannins and it’s paired with mild acidity. Tree The Winery At Holy Cross Abbey 2016 Rev- bark and baking spice join cranberry on the spicy Wölffer 2019 Cellar Series Gewürztraminer 82 elation Proprietary (Colorado). Aromas of finish. —F.A. 89 (Long Island). Zesty aromas of pink grape- pomegranate and goji berry duel with struck match abv: 13.5% Price: $NA fruit, tangerine and ginger mix with a richer core of and hot spice on the nose. The palate introduces ripe peach on the nose. This is rounded and silken black raspberry and cranberry flavors that clash Restoration 2016 Cabernet Franc (Grand Val- on the palate, displaying a wealth of peppery spice with baking spice, creosote and tar. It finishes tangy 82 ley). High-toned blueberry, black plum and and flowers alongside grapefruit pith. It shows and laced with peppery spice. —F.A. blackberry aromas contend with peppery spice on admirable power and intensity, perfect for those abv: 14.4% Price: $50 the nose. Ripe and tangy berry fruits open the pal- who enjoy the spicy side of the variety. —A.P. ate, backed by tar and tree sap. It finishes hot and abv: 13.4% Price: $25 spicy, with a grip of tannin. —F.A. OTHER RED WINES abv: 15.1% Price: $58 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2018 Gewürztraminer 88 (Finger Lakes). Bright aromas of grape- Balistreri 2018 Talbott Vineyard Petite Sirah Grande River 2016 Reserve Cabernet Franc fruit, white flowers and pink peppercorn meld with 91 (Grand Valley). For full review see page 13. 80 (Grand Valley). Flint and steel set the tone a slightly grassy hop note on the nose. The palate abv: 15.2% Price: $48 on the nose, blending aromas of black plum, sage, is rounded in feel, showing a creamy melon flavor white peppercorn, goji and fallen leaves. The palate that’s honed by a lick of bitter spice. —A.P. Restoration 2017 Barbera (Grand Valley). offers bruised black cherry, vanilla and charred oak. abv: 13% Price: $17 89 Aromas of red apple and raspberry are Peppery spice and charcoal flavors mark the finish. accented by notes of holly. Tart berry acidity and —F.A. Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2018 Gewürztra- mild, powdery tannins form the structure on that abv: 15% Price: $35 87 miner (Finger Lakes). Heady aromas of rose palate that blends cranberry and raspberry flavors and orange blossoms ride over a core of dried apricot and ginger. The palate echoes the nose, but in a

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