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Contents
List of Maps vi
1 The Best of Campania & the Amalfi Coast 1 1 The Best Travel Experiences ...... 1 6 The Best Swimming & 2 The Best Ruins ...... 3 Sunbathing Spots ...... 7 3 The Best Churches & Cathedrals . . . . .4 7 The Best Spas ...... 8 4 The Best Castles & Palaces ...... 5 8 The Best Vistas ...... 8 5 The Best Museums ...... 6 9 The Best Restaurants ...... 9 10 The Best Luxury Stays ...... 9
2 Planning Your Trip to Campania & the Amalfi Coast 11 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 11 11 Getting There ...... 33 2 Visitor Information ...... 14 12 Package Deals, Escorted 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .15 Tours & Special-Interest Tours ...... 37 4 Money ...... 17 13 Getting Around Campania ...... 39 The Euro, the U.S. Dollar & 14 Tips on Accommodations ...... 42 the British Pound ...... 18 A Home Away from Home: 5 When to Go ...... 19 Renting Your Own Apartment or Villa ...... 43 Campania Calendar of Events ...... 20 15 Tips on Dining ...... 44 6 Travel Insurance ...... 25 Campanian Nightlife ...... 45 7 Health & Safety ...... 26 16 Recommended Books & Films ...... 46 8 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 27 Fast Facts: Campania & 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 29 the Amalfi Coast ...... 47 10 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 30
3 Suggested Campania & the Amalfi Coast Itineraries 53 1 Campania & the Amalfi Coast 3 Camapania & the Amalfi Coast COPYRIGHTEDin 1 Week ...... 53 MATERIALfor Families ...... 57 2 Campania & the Amalfi Coast 4 The Natural Wonders of in 2 Weeks ...... 54 Campania & the Amalfi Coast ...... 59 02_595903 ftoc.qxp 2/22/06 7:15 PM Page iv
iv CONTENTS
4 Naples 61 1 Essentials ...... 61 6 Shopping for Local Crafts ...... 105 The Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 63 The Presepio ...... 106 Fast Facts: Naples ...... 66 7 Naples After Dark ...... 107 2 Where to Stay ...... 69 8 Vesuvius, an Easy Excursion 3 Where to Dine ...... 77 from Naples ...... 108 4 Exploring Naples ...... 87 9 Pozzuoli ...... 109 Campania Artecard ...... 87 10 Baia & the National Park of Phlegrean Fields ...... 112 5 Spaccanapoli: A Walking Tour along the Very Heart of Naples . . . .103
Pompeii & Herculaneum: the Vesuvian 5 Archaeological Area 118 1 Herculaneum ...... 118 4 Pompeii ...... 125 2 Torre del Greco ...... 122 5 Boscoreale ...... 130 3 Oplontis ...... 124 6 Castellammare di Stabia ...... 132
6 The Land of Sirens: Sorrento & its Peninsula 137 1 Vico Equense ...... 137 3 Beyond Sorrento: Massa 2 Sorrento ...... 141 Lubrense & Punta Campanella . . . .152
7 The Amalfi Coast 161 1 Planning Your Trip to 6 Amalfi ...... 188 the Amalfi Coast ...... 162 Amalfi & the Industry 2 Vietri sul Mare & Cetara: of Papermaking ...... 191 Gates to the Costiera ...... 164 Christmas on the Amalfi Coast . . . .196 3 Mountains & Beaches: Maiori, 7 Between Amalfi & Positano: Tramonti & Minori ...... 169 Conca dei Marini, Furore, Limoncello & other Rosoli ...... 175 Agerola & Praiano-Vettica 4 Ravello ...... 176 Maggiore ...... 197 5 Off the Beaten Path: 8 Positano ...... 203 Atrani & Scala ...... 184
The Jewels of the Gulf of Naples: the Islands 8 of Capri, Ischia & Procida 214 1 Ischia: Isola Verde & 3 Capri, the Faraglioni & Island of Eternal Youth ...... 214 the Blue Grotto ...... 229 2 Romantic & Unspoiled Procida . . . .226 02_595903 ftoc.qxp 2/22/06 7:15 PM Page v
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9 Salerno, Paestum & the Cilento 240 1 Salerno ...... 240 3 The National Park Salerno after Dark ...... 248 of the Cilento ...... 256 2 The Magical Ruins of Paestum . . . . .249
Campania’s Well-Kept Secrets: Caserta, 10 Benevento & Avellino 266 1 Caserta ...... 267 The Witches of Benevento ...... 286 The Radical Philosophy 5 Around Benevento: of Gaetano Filangeri ...... 272 the Land of the Sannites ...... 290 2 Ancient Rome’s Second Rome: 6 Avellino & the Hill Towns Santa Maria Capua Vetere ...... 275 of Irpinia ...... 294 3 Capua & its Churches ...... 278 Pulcinella ...... 296 4 Bewitching Benevento ...... 283
Appendix A: Campania & the Amalfi Coast in Depth 304
1 A Look at the Past ...... 304 3 Gastronomia Campania & its Dateline ...... 305 Wines (A Taste of Campania) . . . . .320 2 Art & Architecture in Campania ...... 310
Appendix B: Molto Italiano 325
1 Basic Vocabulary ...... 325 3 Campanian Menu Terms ...... 328 2 A Glossary of Italian Architectural Terms ...... 326
Index 331 02_595903 ftoc.qxp 2/22/06 7:15 PM Page vi
List of Maps
Campania & the Amalfi Coast 13 The Amalfi Coast & Sorrento Campania & the Amalfi Coast Peninsula 139 in 1 Week & 2 Weeks 55 Sorrento 145 Campania & the Amalfi Coast Ravello 177 for Families 58 Amalfi 189 The Natural Wonders of Campania & Positano 205 the Amalfi Coast 60 Isle of Ischia 215 Naples by Rail 67 Ischia Town 219 Where to Stay in Naples 70 Isle of Capri 231 Where to Dine in Naples 78 Capri Town 233 What to See & Do in Naples 88 Salerno 241 Walking Tour of Naples 105 Paestum 251 Pozzuoli 111 The Cilento 257 Phlegrean Fields 113 Caserta 269 The Vesuvian Area 119 Santa Maria Capua Vetere 277 Herculaneum 121 Capua 279 Pompeii 127 Benevento 285 Castellammare di Stabia 133 Avellino 295