sign in sign up
<<
Home , Aeolian Islands, Amalfi Coast, Amalfi Drive, Certosa di Padula, Grotta dello Smeraldo, Herculaneum

1 The Best of & the Coast

Campania—the region that encompasses and the —is, for many tourists, terra incognita. A land of myth and legends, coveted since antiquity for the fertility of its countryside and the beauty of its coasts. In this chapter, we’ll help you discover the best of Campania by pointing you toward its major treasures.

1 THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

• Walking through Naples’s Historic landmarks annoyingly out of view, glid- District: Maybe it is a bit defiant, given ing into the Bay, with a sea breeze all the negative press about garbage and behind you and the city spread out mafia here, but we find it exhilarating to ahead of you, can be magnificent. The be able to enjoy Naples’s stunning art majestic and somewhat ominous pres- after it was literally hidden in grime for ence of looming over decades. Its collection of exquisite fres- the Bay makes it that much more dra- coes, paintings, and sculptures are now matic. You can arrive by regular ferry available to visitors at its numerous mon- from one of the islands or even from asteries, palaces, churches, and muse- one of the other harbors in Campania, ums. Kings and noble families have such as or . We highly lavished art on the city as nowhere else in recommend arriving during the very except , making Naples a early morning or in the evening, when competitor with and . A the sun is sinking below the horizon, key stop for art lovers during the Grand bathing the city in gold and orange; this Tour, Naples was later forgotten due to is when the view is most magical. Upon the complete abandonment of its monu- soaking in the sight, you’ll instantly ments. But thanks to sustained efforts understand the motivation behind the over the past 15 years, Naples is again old saying, “See Naples and die.” See experiencing a tourism boom. See “Getting There,” in chapter 5. “Exploring Naples,” in chapter 5. • Hiking the Ancient Paths of the • Exploring : This renowned island Amalfi Coast: Taking a stroll on one of remains COPYRIGHTEDa magical destination, in spite the AmalfiMATERIAL Coast’s footpaths—once the of the crowds of tourists that flock to its only means of communication between shores. Of course, for the best experi- the region’s towns—is the best way to ence, come early in the season and plan soak in the intensity of this amazing to stay overnight. seascape. No matter your level of fitness, • Arriving in Naples by Boat: You don’t you’ll find a stretch of path that’s right have to book a transatlantic cruise to for you. The region’s main road—the have this marvelous experience. While famed —was built in 1840 arriving in Naples by car can be nerve- and made the area more accessible, per- racking, confusing, and hot, with most haps too much so. The old trails, on the

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 1 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM 2 other hand, are unique, and lead you found at this trendy resort, which through the Amalfi Coast missed by so stocks treasure troves of unique, hand- many tourists. Trails come in all levels of made clothes and shoes. You can still difficulty, from flat stretches (such as the find tailors and cobblers who will make footpath from Amalfi to ) to you garments or sandals on the spot, downhill ones (such as the footpath from while you wait—or, even better, while to Minori) to more demanding you go for a swim. See chapter 8 for ones (such as the Sentiero degli Dei and addresses. the Via degli Incanti from ). See • Wandering Through Ancient Roman chapter 8. Lanes in : Walking among • Exploring Greek in : ancient ruins is romantic and sad, and The first colony the established even a little creepy at times. Campania in Italy was Cuma, near . From affords you many opportunities to live there, they expanded south to the rest this unique experience. Of all the sites of the Campanian coast. The heritage in the region, Pompeii and Hercula- they left in Campania is immense— neum are justly famous: Walking their rivaled in Italy only by —and in a streets gives you a particularly eerie feel- state of conservation seen only in ing. At the center of the lanes’ mesmeric Greece itself. This is Magna Grecia, attraction is the knowledge that their THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST AMALFI THE & CAMPANIA OF BEST THE where first spread its violent destruction and miraculous 1 influence into Italy, setting the stage for preservation both happened on one ter- what we call Western culture. In these rible day nearly 2,000 years ago. And temples and towns, you literally get the somehow it feels as if it is always that chance to walk in the footsteps of day here. Imagination easily bridges the and ’s contemporaries. See gap to the time when these rooms chapters 6 and 10. resounded with talk and laughter (or, • Eating the Best Pizza: Pizza was for more morbid minds, screams and invented here, in the narrow lanes of cries of terror). Yet the best sites in the Naples’s historic district, and for region might be some of the lesser Neapolitans, their pizza is the only known, such as the magnificent di “real” one, thick crusted and fragrant. Poppea, in , with its wonderful Whether you prefer a simple pizza joint frescoes; the Villa Arianna and the Villa or an elaborate restaurant, you’ll share di San Marco, in Castellammare di the pride Neapolitans feel for their Stabia; and the Villa Romana of Minori. THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES TRAVEL BEST THE invention, now taken over by the whole See chapters 6, 7, and 8. planet. The decor may be simple and • Listening to a Concert in a Medieval traditional (sometimes nonexistent), Cloister: The unique blend of cultures and, in the most authentic restaurants, operating in Campania gave birth to you’ll have a modest choice of top- some of the most splendid medieval pings—only two at Da Michele, cloisters ever built. Intertwined arches reputed to make the best pizza in of Sicilian-Norman architecture are Naples. Yet whichever place you choose, used here to support the loggias of the outcome will be tasty, satisfying, delightful inner gardens, where the sun, and distinctive, because in Naples, no more often than not, is shining on two pizzas are alike. See “Where to fruit-laden citrus trees and ancient Dine,” in chapter 5. stone and tile work. During the sum- • Shopping in Positano: The best exclu- mer, music festivals are held in most sive shopping in the region can be coastal towns to take advantage of these

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 2 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM 3

FRANCEFRANCE S THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST L P SWITZERLANDSWITZERLAND CourmayeurCourmayeur A LakeLake MaggioreMaggiore A AAostaosta MeranoMerano TRENTINO–TRENTINO– L AUSTRIAAUSTRIA VALLEVALLE LLakeake ALTOALTO ADIGEADIGE P NovaraNovara CComoomo S D’AOSTAD’AOSTA BolzanoBolzano S E LOMBARDYLOMBARDY T CortinaCortina d’Ampezzod’Ampezzo ComoComo TTrentrent I TurinTurin VercelliVercelli BBergamoergamo LakeLake M BellunoBelluno AstiAsti O BresciaBrescia GardaGarda L FRIULI–VENEZIAFRIULI–VENEZIA MMilanilan O VicenzaVicenza PPIEDMONTIEDMONT D GIULIAGIULIA CCremonaremona VENETOVENETO PParmaarma VeronaVerona UUdinedine CCuneouneo TrevisoTreviso MMantuaantua PPaduaadua SLOVENIASLOVENIA SSavonaavona GGenoaenoa N VeniceVenice O FerraraFerrara R TriesteTrieste LIGURIALIGURIA T MModenaodena Gulf of H EMILIA-EMILIA- SSanan RRemoemo GulfG u l f ooff RRapalloapallo E Venice GGenoae n o a R ROMAGNAROMAGNA N CCROATIAROATIA LLaa SSpeziapezia BolognaBologna RRavennaavenna LuccaLucca A Ligurian P PPisaisa P SSANAN Sea FlorenceFlorence E RRiminiimini N MMARINOARINO LLivornoivorno N PPesaroesaro TUSCANYTUSCANY I N BOSNIABOSNIA GGubbioubbio ElbaElba SienaSiena E AAnconancona S CorsicaCorsica PPerugiaerugia AAssisissisi THETHE 45 N. (()France) OOrvietorvieto MARCHESMARCHES VViterboiterbo UMBRIAUMBRIA SSpoletopoleto A 1 CCivitavecchiaivitavecchia TTeranoerano D

TTernierni THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES LL’Aquila’Aquila PPescaraescara RROMEOME R VATICANVATICAN I CCITYITY CChietihieti A ÓlbiaÓlbia LATIUMLATIUM ABRUZZIABRUZZI T SassariSassari CampobassoCampobasso I C MOLIZEMOLIZE NuoroNuoro CasertaCaserta 41 N. GGulfu l f ofo f BeneventoBenevento FFoggiaoggia S S E GGaetaa e t a O SARDINIASARDINIA NaplesNaples Mt.Mt. VVesuviusesuvius A IschiaIschia U APULIAAPULIA T PompeiiPompeii SorrentoSorrento H BBariari

CapriCapri E CCagliariagliari SSalernoalerno AAmalfimalfi R TYRRHENIAN PPaestumaestum PPotenzaotenza N

9 E. SEA CAMPANIACAMPANIA BBrindisirindisi

BASILICATABASIL ICATA A

A TTarantoaranto

P P P

10 E. P Gulf of LLecceecce E

E N

Ustica CCosenzaosenza N

N N I

I CALABRIACALABRIA N

TTrapanirapani AAeolianeolian IIslandsslands N E

Stromboli E CCatanzaroatanzaro S

Egadi Is. S

MMarsalaarsala PPalermoalermo 40 N. SSelinunteelinunte MMessinaessina RReggioeggio ddii EEnnanna TTaorminaaormina CCalabriaalabria AAgrigentogrigento Mt.Mt. EEtnatna SICILYSICILY IONIAN CCataniaatania SEA MEDITERRANEAN RRagusaagusa SSyracuseyracuse SEA 0 100 Mi

0 100 Km 15 E.

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 3 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM 4 magical spaces. The best of these medi- in Ravello, and the cloister of San Fran- eval marvels are the Chiostro del Parad- cesco in Sorrento. See chapters 7 and 8. iso in Amalfi, the cloister

2 THE BEST RUINS

• The Temples of Paestum: This site’s located in Santa Maria Vetere, complete set of walls and three temples which occupies the grounds of Roman are simply the best Greek ruins in exis- Capua, the city that Cicero considered tence outside Greece. One of the three second only to Rome in the entire temples—the grandiose Temple of ancient world. The area is rich in other , whose restoration was fin- noteworthy ruins, such as the splendid ished in 2004—is actually the best- Mitreo (Temple to the Persian god preserved Greek temple in the world, Mithras), and museum collections. See along with the Theseion in . We chapter 11. highly recommend timing your visit in • Pompeii and : Will spring or fall, when the roses are in enough ever be said to describe these bloom and the ruins are at their most incredible sites? Even if you have THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST AMALFI THE & CAMPANIA OF BEST THE romantic. The site is also stunning at already visited them in the past, new 1 dawn and sunset in any season, when findings are reason enough for a return the temples’ surfaces glow golden in the visit. The magnificent Villa dei Papiri in sun. See chapter 10. Herculaneum was opened to the public • The of Cuma: The first for the first time in 2004; the Greek colony in Italy and a beacon of Suburbane in Pompeii was opened in Greek culture, Cuma was built on one of 2002. The riches of the archaeological the most picturesque promontories in area are best complemented by a visit to Campania. In the once enchanting area the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in THE BEST RUINS BEST THE of the Phlegrean Fields, where so many Naples, to view its massive array of myths reside (the Cave of the Sybil, Lake frescoes and mosaics from earlier exca- Averno and the entrance to the under- vations at both sites. See chapter 6. world, and so on), Cuma offers a stun- • Oplontis: Also called the Villa of Pop- ning panorama and atmospheric ruins. pea, these are the ruins of a splendid See “Phlegrean Fields,” in chapter 6. —believed to be that of • The Anfiteatro Campano of Santa Nero’s wife—with magnificent frescoes Maria Capua Vetere: The largest and decorations. Lesser known than Roman amphitheater after the Colos- other sites and often skipped by hurried seum, this splendid ruin offers a glimpse tourists who stop only in Pompeii or at ancient artistry in spite of the active Herculaneum, this villa is unique, not pillage that occurred here from the 9th only for its state of conservation, but also century onward. On-site is the Museo because modern requires dei Gladiatori, a permanent exhibit materials to be left in situ. The frescoes reconstructing the life of a ; it and statuary grant you a fuller experience is housed in a building located on the of the Romans’ daily lives. See chapter 6. probable site of Capua’s Gladiator • Trajan’s Arch in : This little- School—whose most famous graduate known and out-of-the-way find is was Spartacus, the slave made famous the world’s best-preserved example of by the 1960 Stanley Kubrick film. It is an ancient Roman triumphal arch.

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 4 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM Recently restored—it took 14 years of large part of the ancient Roman town of 5 work before the arch was opened again Baia was submerged by the sea. Exca-

to the public in 2001—it is a master- vated and transformed into an archaeo- THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST piece of carving that depicts the deeds logical park, it can now be visited with of the admired (and fairly benevolent) scuba equipment or—if you don’t like Roman emperor Trajan. Careful clean- to get wet—in a glass-bottomed boat. ing has eliminated darker areas in the The itinerary leads you through the , making the reliefs much easier streets of the ancient town and inside its to read. Inside a little Longobard beautiful , now water-filled. This church nearby is a permanent exhibit magical experience truly deserves the on the arch, its restoration, and Roman word unique. See “Pozzuoli” and life under Trajan. See chapter 11. “Phlegrean Fields,” in chapter 6. • Pozzuoli: The ruins of the ancient • : Overshadowed by Paestum and Roman town of Puteoli have been dif- just a bit too far from Naples for a day ficult to excavate because the busy trip, Velia was the site of an important modern town occupies exactly the same Greek settlement started around 540 area as the original (much as Rome b.c. It gave birth to one of antiquity’s does). In the splendid frame of Poz- most important philosophical schools zuoli’s bay, you’ll find an underground of thought—the Eleatic doctrines of Pompeii—buried not by a volcanic and Zeno. Velia is one of explosion, but by sinking under unsta- the only Greek archaeological sites 1 ble volcanic ground. The main attrac- showing remains not only of an acropo-

tions are the Rione Terra, with Roman lis with its ruined temples, but also of a THE BEST CHURCHES & CATHEDRALS streets and shops; the 1st-century lower town with some houses. Portions -Roman market (Serapeo); and of the walls here date from the 5th and the Roman amphitheater (Anfiteatro 4th centuries b.c. A stretch of the origi- Flavio), where musical performances nal Greek pavement climbs toward the are held during summer. See chapter 6. town gate, the famous Porta Rosa. A • The Underwater Archeological Park highlight of the Roman period is the of Baia: Due to subsiding ground, a thermal baths. See chapter 10.

3 THE BEST CHURCHES & CATHEDRALS

• Casertavecchia Cathedral: This medi- display in the attached museum. Santa eval church is one of the most beautiful Restituta, the original 6th-century extant examples of Arabo-Norman church, contains a magnificent 4th- architecture, built with two colors of century baptistery. See chapter 5. tufa stone and white marble, and dot- • Complesso Monumentale di Santa ted with strange human and animal Chiara: Another star on the Neapolitan figures. See chapter 11. scene, this splendid church-cum-mon- • Naples’s Duomo: The most splendid of astery holds splendid examples of 14th- Naples’s churches, and home of superb century sculpture that escaped the artwork, you’ll find that the Duomo is tragic bombing of World War II. (Other three churches in one. The Cappella di parts of the massive structure were not San Gennaro is really a church in its so lucky but have since been restored.) own right, with a fantastic treasure on The spacious majolica cloister holds a

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 5 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM 6 plethora of mythological, pastoral, and this beautiful paleochristian church has whimsical scenes enchanting to behold been redecorated in later centuries, but in the open air. See chapter 5. it contains artworks reaching back to • San Lorenzo Maggiore: Originally Roman times (its columns and capi- built in the 6th century, this lesser- tals), as well as examples of Renaissance known church in Naples is famous for frescoes and carvings. See chapter 11. its literary guests: from Boccaccio, who • Sant’Angelo in Formis: This is one of met his darling Fiammetta here, to the most important Romanesque Francesco Petrarca and others. It holds churches in the entire country. Its entire splendid Renaissance masterpieces and interior is graced with beautiful frescoes. a multilayered archaeological site, The church’s lovely setting is Mount where you can descend like a time trav- Tifata, near Capua. See chapter 11. eler through layers of buildings all the • Santa Sofia: Dating back to the early way down to a paleochristian basilica Longobard kingdom in Benevento, this and the 1st-century Roman Macellum small medieval church is famous for its (market). See chapter 5. unique star-shaped floor plan and the • Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata: integration of Longobard and Catholic This church is located in Minuto, one of symbols. See chapter 11. the medieval hamlets of the township of • Certosa di (Carthusian Mon- THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST AMALFI THE & CAMPANIA OF BEST THE Scala, which stretches along the cliffs of astery of San Lorenzo): Begun in the 1 the Amalfi Coast. The church offers not 14th century, this magnificent monas- only some of the region’s best examples tery—one of the largest in the world— of Romanesque architecture and beauti- is a baroque masterpiece, chock-full of ful 12th-century frescoes, but also a art and architectural details. Off the superb panorama. See chapter 8. beaten path, but only a short distance • Duomo di : from Salerno, it is a destination not to Dating originally from the 5th century, be missed. See chapter 10.

4 THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES

• Castel dell’Ovo: The symbol of Naples is also justly famed for its massive Ital- and the most picturesque icon of the ian garden, one of the most beautiful in THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES & CASTLES BEST THE Naples waterfront, this castle is the the world. See chapter 11. city’s oldest fortification—its founda- • Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino): tion dates back to the 9th century b.c. This 13th-century castle was the resi- Greek settlement. It is supposedly built dence of Neapolitan kings until the 17th over a magic egg hidden by the poet- century. Although a fire in the 16th magician Virgil for the defense of the century destroyed its frescoes by Giotto, city (which will crumble into ruin if the there is still enough in this majestic for- egg is destroyed). See chapter 5. tress to impress visitors. See chapter 5. • Reggia di Caserta: The Versailles of • Palazzo Reale: The beautiful Royal Italy, this splendid royal palace was Palace of Naples dominates wide Piazza built by the famous architect Vanvitelli del Plebiscito with its neoclassical for the Bourbon kings in the 18th cen- facade and statues of kings. Inside, tury. It holds fantastic works of art and you’ll find a rich collection of art and the decorations—walls and floors decorations as well as a wonderful included—are magnificent. The Reggia library. See chapter 5.

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 6 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM • Castel Lauritano: This ruined castle in can listen to concerts of Wagner’s work 7 , a town on the Amalfi Coast, is in the same setting. See chapter 8.

incredibly picturesque and offers exten- • : The second most THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST sive views over both the coast and the famous villa in Ravello, also with a interior. See chapter 8. splendid panoramic , the Villa • Villa Rufolo: This splendid villa in Cimbrone has another attraction: It Ravello has been made famous by its houses a small hotel and a restaurant, terrace and gardens, which inspired which was opened to the public in Wagner to write some of his Parsifal, so 2005. See chapter 8. moved was he by its vistas. Today, you

5 THE BEST MUSEUMS

• Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte: includes the most important assemblage Created by the Bourbon kings, this of in the world. picture gallery is one of the best in the See chapter 5. world, holding paintings from the 13th • Museo Campano: This museum in century onward. The catalog looks like Capua has a tall order, as the repository a book on art history, complete with all of the history and culture of the whole the famous names of Italian art and Campania region. It does a great job, 1 many members of the Flemish school. though, with its several collections,

The regular special exhibits draw visi- covering the whole ancient history of THE BEST MUSEUMS tors from all over Italy, Europe, and the the area, from the Oscans (about 6th world. (The success of these special century b.c.) to the Renaissance. It has exhibits is such that you’ll need advance a magnificent collection of parchment reservations to get in, unless you don’t and illuminated . See chap- mind standing in line for several hours.) ter 11. See chapter 5. • Museo del Duomo: This museum in • Museo Archeologico Nazionale: Even Salerno is not large, but it holds a num- if you are only mildly interested in ber of invaluable masterpieces ranging archaeology, you should not miss this from Roman times to the Renaissance unique museum, which holds the larg- and baroque periods. It includes a est collection of ancient Roman arti- unique collection of ivory carvings, a facts in the world. Created in the 17th great picture gallery, and a rich collec- century—with original Roman mosaics tion of illuminated manuscripts. See reused in the floors and statues incorpo- chapter 10. rated in the facade decoration—this is • Museo del Sannio: Housed in the where the best finds from Pompeii and atmospheric cloister of Santa Sofia in other local sites are on display. The Benevento, this is a small but well- huge quantity of frescoes, statuary, and rounded collection of artifacts from precious objects has greatly benefited local sites. It includes the largest collec- from a reorganization, which was fin- tion of Egyptian art found at one Italian ished in 2005. See chapter 5. archaeological site, a local temple. See • Museo Nazionale della Ceramica Duca chapter 11. di Martina: Housed in the elegant Villa • Museo Irpino: This modern museum Floridiana up in Naples’s Vomero neigh- displays a collection of artifacts found borhood, this rich ceramic collection in the rich archaeological sites in the

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 7 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM 8 outlying region of Avellino. The objects • Museo Archeologico dei Campi date back into the distant past long Flegrei: Housed in the picturesque before the Romans (or even the Greeks) Aragonese Castle of Baia, this is another came to the region—as far back as 4000 great treasure trove of Roman and b.c. See chapter 11. Greek art in the vicinity of Naples. See chapter 5.

6 THE BEST SWIMMING & SUNBATHING SPOTS

• : This lesser-known resort • Positano: The most famous resort on town on the Sorrentine peninsula is the Amalfi Coast, Positano has several blessed with several beaches—most of picturesque beaches—although they’re them small and hidden away inside hardly deserted. Besides the central picturesque coves—such as Marina di Spiaggia Grande by the marina, you’ll Equa, dominated by a powerful 17th- find Fornillo to the west of town, and century tower. See chapter 7. La Porta, Ciumicello, Arienzo, and

THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST AMALFI THE & CAMPANIA OF BEST THE • Punta del Capo: This lovely beach near Laurito to the east. See chapter 8. Sorrento under the cliffs has attracted • Spiaggia di Citara: This is the most 1 visitors from time immemorial. Nearby, scenic beach on the island of , you’ll find the ruins of a Roman villa near the little town of . Besides the and a small pool of water enclosed by lovely scenery, there are several natural rocks, known as the Bath of Queen thermal springs. See chapter 9. Giovanna. See chapter 7. • Marina di Paestum: Greek temples are • Bay of Ieranto: Part of the Marine not the only reason to come to Paes- Preserve of Punta Campanella, this tum. The sandy beach here is one of the

THE BEST SPAS BEST THE unique fjord was almost lost to develop- best in Italy, extending for miles along ers, who would have spoiled its beauty the clear blue sea. See chapter 10. forever. When the light is just right at • Baia della Calanca: In beautiful Marina day’s end, the clarity of the waters here di Camerota, this is one of the nicest creates the illusion of boats floating in beaches in the , and it is famed midair. See chapter 7. for its clear waters. See chapter 10. • : Although this • Bagni di Tiberio: This is the best of grotto in the village of Conca dei the rare and tiny beaches of Capri. Marini on the Amalfi Coast is usually As the name suggests, it lies near the visited by boat, it is also the destination ruins of one of Emperor Tiberius’s of a scuba procession on Christmas notorious pleasure palaces. It is accessi- night. The pretty beach can be visited ble by a rocky steep path or by boat. See anytime, however. See chapter 8. chapter 9.

7 THE BEST SPAS

• Parco Termale Giardini Poseidon: which you can enjoy great views and a This is our favorite thermal spa. On variety of aesthetic and health treat- beautiful Ischia, the Poseidon boasts ments. See chapter 9. scenic outdoor thermal pools from

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 8 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM • Ischia Thermal Center: In the small wide range of services, from beauty and 9 town of Ischia, this is one of the most relaxation treatments to medical ones.

modern spas on the island, where you See chapter 7. THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST can enjoy a variety of state-of-the-art • Scrajo Terme: At the beginning of the modern services. See chapter 9. Sorrentine peninsula, just outside the • Terme della Regina Isabella: Among pleasant resort town of Vico Equense, the most famous and elegant spas on you’ll find this historic thermal estab- Ischia, this historical establishment in lishment dating back to the 19th cen- exclusive Lacco Ameno offers state-of- tury. Guest rooms are available so the-art facilities. See chapter 9. visitors can “take the waters” in style. • : This pleas- See chapter 7. ant seaside resort is blessed with 28 • Telese Terme: Little known to foreign natural thermal springs which you can visitors, this charming thermal spa and enjoy at one of the two public spas: the resort is a short distance west of historical one built by the Bourbon Benevento and affords luxury and kings or the modern establishment on quiet. See chapter 11. the slopes of Mount Faito. Both offer a

8 THE BEST VISTAS 1 • Lungomare di Salerno: Italy’s best- road; the views are indeed superb. See kept secret may be the seaside prome- chapter 8. THE BEST VISTAS nade of laid-back Salerno. A splendid • Lake Fusaro: In the once picturesque and completely pedestrian walkway Phlegrean Fields, not far from Pozzuoli, lined with palm trees, it offers views this beautiful lake was chosen by the encompassing the whole bay from Bourbon kings as the site for the Casina Capri to Punta Licosa in the Cilento. Reale, a structural jewel designed by the See chapter 10. architect Vanvitelli. Today, as back • Deserto: From the terraces of this Car- then, the Casina Reale commands royal melite hermitage near Sant’Agata dei views perfect for picture taking. See Golfi, you can enjoy the famous, chapter 6. unique circular panorama encompass- • Monte Cervati: The highest peak of ing both the , with Sor- the Cilento massif, Cervati is famous rento and the islands, and the Gulf of for its beauty in summer—when it Salerno, with the Amalfi Coast. On a turns purple with lavender fields—and good day, you can see almost the entire for the magnificent views from its top. region, from the Cilento—way off to See chapter 10. the south of Paestum—to Capo • Agropoli: From the walls of the medi- , to the islands of Ischia and eval citadel, you can look down on vast , and to Capri. See chapter 7. stretches of coastline—a view that • Belvedere dello Schiaccone: This helped the Saracens hold onto Agropoli is the best lookout along the whole as the base for their incursions, until Amalfi Drive, located immediately west they were finally dislodged in the 11th of Positano and accessible from the century. See chapter 10.

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 9 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM 10 9 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• Don Alfonso 1890 (& 081-8780026): happily devoid of stuffiness or ostenta- This is one of the top Italian gourmet tion. There’s no snobbery here, only the addresses and the best restaurant south best that money can buy. Chef Baciòt of Naples, created and maintained by brings together the ingredients of tasty hosts Lidia and Alfonso Iaccarino. The and healthy dishes that marry tradition restaurant, a member of the Relais & with nutrition. The service and sur- Châteaux association, has a luxurious roundings are impeccable, and the decor and offers superb food made of wine list is among the best in Italy. See ingredients mainly from the chefs’ own chapter 5. organic farm. See chapter 7. • La Cantinella (& 081-7648684) This • Oasi Olimpia Relais (& 081-8080560): well-known restaurant proudly serves a Competing for the title of best restau- classic version of traditional Neapolitan rant on the with cuisine, with a large share of the menu Don Alfonso 1890, this is our favorite dedicated to seafood. Make reservations spot to eat in the area. It might not have well ahead, as it is very popular with the over-the-top elegance of Don local crowds. See chapter 5. THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST AMALFI THE & CAMPANIA OF BEST THE Alfonso (though it’s not a place to drop • Relais Blu Belvedere (& 081-8789552): 1 by in your bathing attire, either); it has This restaurant-cum-small-hotel is a a more down-to-earth atmosphere and hot address on the Sorrento peninsula. an enthusiasm for homegrown food The delightful manager-host will intro- that we find irresistible. The alfresco duce you to the flavors of his beloved dining under the arbor is a plus. See native peninsula, be it for predinner chapter 7. drinks, which are served with creative • Faro di Capo d’Orso (& 089-877022): nibbles based on local ingredients, or Owned by a young, emerging chef— for a perfectly romantic dinner. High Rocco Iannone—the Faro (Lighthouse) above the rocky coast overlooking is one of the culinary highlights of the Capri, the open-air terrace is spectacu- Amalfi Coast, supplemented by a unique lar. See chapter 7. THE BEST RESTAURANTS BEST THE location that offers stunning views of • Olivo of the Capri Palace (& 081- this stretch of coast. See chapter 8. 9780111): This restaurant, at the styl- • Il San Pietro di Positano (& 800/- ish Capri Palace hotel, is a haven of 735-2478): The restaurant of the elegance and good taste, from the fur- famous hotel in Positano with the same nishings and table settings to the name, Il San Pietro offers the fine cui- impeccable service and superb creative sine of Chef Alois Vanlangenacker—all cuisine. See chapter 9. based on ingredients from the hotel’s • Rossellinis (& 089-818181): A truly own farm—and a delightfully romantic elegant and satisfactory experience setting that is worth a visit all by itself. awaits you at this restaurant in the See chapter 8. exclusive Palazzo Sasso in Ravello, • George’s (& 081-7612474): On the where the finest local ingredients are roof terrace of the Grand Hotel Park- transformed into delectable meals by er’s, this is a truly elegant restaurant the talented chef. See chapter 8.

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 1010 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM 11 10 THE BEST LUXURY STAYS THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST • Grand Hotel Parker’s (& 081- • Hotel Santa Caterina (& 089- 7612474): This is Naples’s most 871012): Amalfi’s most luxurious romantic luxury hotel, competing with hotel, on a cliff just out of town, this is the Grand Hotel Vesuvio for the title of where you’ll want to come to be pam- best hotel in town. Housed in a mag- pered away from the crowds—and to nificent Liberty-style building, it offers enjoy the hotel’s beautiful private beach, superb service, classy accommodations, swimming pool, and lush gardens. See and one of the best restaurants in the chapter 8. country. See chapter 5. • Hotel Le (& 089-875066): • Grand Hotel Vesuvio (& 081- Competing for the title of best hotel in 7640044): This is generally considered Positano with the Hotel San Pietro, this the best hotel in Naples, offering pala- gorgeous hotel is housed in a beautiful tial accommodations and exquisite ser- 18th-century villa overlooking the sea. vice. You will be pampered the moment It offers palatial accommodations and you step through the doors. The turn- fine service. See chapter 8. down service includes fine small-batch • Grand Hotel Quisisana (& 081- signature chocolates, the linens are roy- 8370788): The glitziest resort on alty class, and the sumptuous breakfast Capri, this luxury hotel provides its 1 is served in the most panoramic room guests with splendid accommodations you can imagine, with views over the and exquisite service. The hotel’s bar THE BEST LUXURY STAYS picturesque Castel dell’Ovo. The gour- and restaurant are popular spots for met roof-restaurant is another plus. visiting socialites, so it’s worth stopping Every detail here is truly first-class. See by just to enjoy the atmosphere. See chapter 5. chapter 9. • Hotel San Pietro Positano (& 800/ • Mezzatorre Resort & Spa (& 081- 735-2478): A member of the Relais & 986111): Taking its name from the Châteaux group, this elegant hotel tops 15th-century watchtower that houses our list of favorite places to stay in the part of the hotel, the Mezzatorre is the whole of Italy. You’ll understand why as most splendid resort in Ischia. On its soon as you step inside. The kind and own secluded promontory off the attentive service, the tastefully colorful exclusive town of Lacco Ameno and not furnishing details, the romantic views far from Forio, it pampers its guests in from the terraces—we love everything perfect elegance and style. The views about this place. See chapter 8. from the park and the swimming pool • Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria are breathtaking. See chapter 9. (& 081-8071044): This gorgeous • Palazzo Sasso (& 089-818181): The hotel is the best in Sorrento, housed in most exclusive hotel in the finest resort what once was a palatial residence over- on the Amalfi Coast, this authentic looking the sea. The antiques in the 12th-century palace was the home of guest rooms, the picturesque terraces, one of the noblest families in town— and the service make this an ideal hotel, and you will be treated accordingly. See right in the center of town (with its own chapter 8. elevator down to a private beach). See chapter 7.

004_497340-ch01.indd4_497340-ch01.indd 1111 33/1/10/1/10 66:21:21 PPMM