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The Rough Guide to Naples & the Amalfi Coast

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The Rough Guide to Naples & the Amalfi Coast HEK=> =K?:;I J>;HEK=>=K?:;je CVeaZh i]Z6bVaÒ8dVhi D7FB;IJ>;7C7B<?9E7IJ 7ZcZkZcid BdcYgV\dcZ 8{ejV HVc<^dg\^d 8VhZgiV HVciÉ6\ViV YZaHVcc^d YZ^<di^ HVciVBVg^V 8{ejVKiZgZ 8VhiZaKdaijgcd 8VhVaY^ Eg^cX^eZ 6g^Zcod / AV\dY^EVig^V BVg^\a^Vcd 6kZaa^cd 9WfeZ_Y^_de CdaV 8jbV CVeaZh AV\dY^;jhVgd Edoojda^ BiKZhjk^jh BZgXVidHVcHZkZg^cd EgX^YV :gXdaVcd Fecf[__ >hX]^V EdbeZ^ >hX]^V IdggZ6ccjco^ViV 8VhiZaaVbbVgZY^HiVW^V 7Vnd[CVeaZh GVkZaad HdggZcid Edh^iVcd HVaZgcd 6bVa[^ 8{eg^ <ja[d[HVaZgcd 6cVX{eg^ 8{eg^ CVeaZh I]Z8Vbe^;aZ\gZ^ Hdji]d[CVeaZh I]Z6bVa[^8dVhi I]Z^haVcYh LN Cdgi]d[CVeaZh FW[ijkc About this book Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to use. The book is divided into the following sections, and you should be able to find whatever you need in one of them. The introductory colour section is designed to give you a feel for Naples and the Amalfi Coast, suggesting when to go and what not to miss, and includes a full list of contents. Then comes basics, for pre-departure information and other practicalities. The guide chapters cover the region in depth, each starting with a highlights panel, introduction and a map to help you plan your route. Contexts fills you in on history, books and film while individual colour sections introduce Neapolitan cuisine and performance. Language gives you an extensive menu reader and enough Italian to get by. 9 781843 537144 ISBN 978-1-84353-714-4 The book concludes with all the small print, including details of how to send in updates and corrections, and a comprehensive index. US $19.99 This first edition published May 2009. CAN $22.99 51999 The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Naples & the Amalfi Coast, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. The Rough Guide to Naples & the Amalfi Coast written and researched by Martin Dunford with additional contributions by Jeffrey Kennedy and Katie Parla www.roughguides.com 00 Naples Colour intro.indd 1 2/26/09 5:33:45 PM 00 Naples Colour intro.indd 2 2/26/09 5:33:51 PM | Contents CONTENTS | Colour section 1 The Camorra.......................... 244 Books and film....................... 246 Introduction ............................... 5 Where to go ............................... 6 Language 251 When to go .............................. 10 Italian pronunciation .............. 253 Things not to miss ................... 12 Words and phrases................ 254 Basics 17 Italian menu reader ................ 256 Glossary of artistic and Getting there............................ 19 architectural terms .............. 260 Arrival ...................................... 22 Getting around......................... 23 Small print & Index 263 Accommodation....................... 25 Food and drink ........................ 27 Cucina napoletana The media................................ 30 colour section Festivals .................................. 31 following p.112 Travel essentials ...................... 33 Guide 39 Theatrical Naples colour section following 1 Naples................................. 41 p.160 2 The Campi Flegrei............... 99 3 South of Naples ................ 115 4 The Amalfi Coast............... 143 Colour maps following 5 The islands........................ 173 CVeaZh p.272 6 North of Naples................. 219 BiKZhjk^jh Contexts 235 History ................................... 237 Art and architecture ............... 240 3 ̇̇ Largo del Corpo di Nilo statue, Naples ̇ The Duomo, Amalfi 00 Naples Colour intro.indd 3 2/26/09 5:33:55 PM 00 Naples Colour intro.indd 4 WHEN TO GO TO WHEN GO O T WHERE INTRODUCTION | | | 4 #FMMPOB .FMJ[[BOP Q 1BEVMJ 4BOU "SDBOHFMP 4JOVFTTB 1JBOBEJ $BTUFMQPUP 5SJNPOUF 'BMDJBOP%FM.BTTJDP .POUF7FSOB 'PHMJBOJTF .POESBHPOF 4BO-ÒVDJP $BTUFM.PSSPOF #FOFWFOUP $ "QJDF LN $ÈQVB 4BO.BSUJOP B $BTFSUBWFDDIJB MP 4BO1SJTDP 4BO(JPSHJPSF 4BO-FVDJPEFM4BOOJP EFM4BOOJP 7PMUVSOP (SB[[BOJTF 4BOU"HBUB 4BOOJUB $BODFMMPFE"SOPOF EFJ(PUJ .POUFTBSDIJP 4BOUB.BSJB$ÈQVB7Ï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ÈWFUB #ÈJB 4 4BSOP B )FSDVMBOFVN #PTDPSFBMF 4PMPGSB CB .POUFEJ1SØDJEB UP #ÈDPMJ .FSDBUP4BO4FWFSJOP &SDPMBOP 5SFDBTF (JGGPOJ4FJ$BTBMJ .JTFOP " $BTBNÓDDJPMB 1PNQFJJ -BDDP"NFOP 5PSSFEFM(SFDP 1PNQFJ "OHSJ 1BHBOJ 1SØDJEB (JGGPOJ7BMMF1JBOB 7FOUPUFOF1PO[B 'PSÓP /PDFSB*OGFSJPSF *TDIJB *TDIJB #BZPG/BQMFT 5PSSF"OOVO[JBUB #BSPOJTTJ $BTUJHMJPOF 4BOU"OUPOJP"CBUF -FUUFSF EFJ$FOPWFTJ 4FSSBSB #BSBOP $BTUFMMBNNBSFEJ4UBCJB $BWBEF5JSSFOJ 4BO.BOHP .POUFDPSWJOP3PWFMMB 'POUBOB 4DBMB 7JDP&RVFOTF 4BMFSOP 7JFUSJTVM.BSF 4PSSFOUP 3BWFMMP .BJPSJ OP 1JBOPEJ4PSSFOUP 1JNPOUF 1POUFDBHOBOP DJB .FUB 5VT "NBMm 4BOU"HOFMMP 1PTJUBOP .JOPSJ $FUBSB " "USBOJ &SDIJF #BUUJQBHMJB $PODBEFJ.BSJOJ #FMMJ[[J 1PSUP7FDDIJP1BMBV .BTTB-VCSFOTF 1SBJBOP 4BOU"HBUBTVJEVF(PMm $ÈQSJ 5FSNJOJ .BSJOBEFM$BOUPOF (VMGPG4BMFSOP $ÈQSJ /FSBOP 2/26/09 5:33:56 PM /"1-&45)&"."-'*$0"45 "OBDBQSJ 0MCJB$BHMJBSJ 5SBQBOJ5VOJT 1BMFSNP$BUBOJB $ÈHMJBSJ "HSPQPMJ 1BFTUVN LN | Introduction to INTRODUCTION Naples & the | WHERE T Amalfi Coast O GO | WHEN TO GO WHEN TO Italy’s third largest city after Rome and Milan, Naples couldn’t be more different from its counterparts further north. Waves of invaders, from the Greeks to the Bourbons, have washed up here, making the city a unique hybrid: the ancient centre still bears the imprint of the Greeks and Romans, while a wealth of monumental Baroque buildings are the legacy of Spanish rule, and breezy seafront promenades give parts of the city a riviera-type feel. The city’s prime vantage point in the Bay of Naples, within easy reach of an array of attractions, is a further draw: some of Europe’s greatest archeological sites are scattered around the bay, not to mention the seismic wonders of Mount Vesuvius and the Campi Flegrei; Italy’s most jaw-dropping stretch of coast snakes around Amalfi just a few miles south; and the fabled islands of the bay are so close that they’re virtually suburbs of the city. But it’s the locals themselves that really set this region apart. All the pride and resentment of the Italian south, all the historical differ- ences between the two wildly disparate halves of Italy, are sharply brought into focus here, particularly in Naples: both a lawless, petulant city that has its own way of doing things, and an intensely Catholic one, its streets punctuated by bright neon Madonnas cut into niches, and its miraculous cults regulating the lives of the people 5 much as they have always done. 00 Naples Colour intro.indd 5 2/26/09 5:33:58 PM ̄ The Naples region comes with balcony, Naples Vómero | INTRODUCTION a lot of baggage; plenty of Italians have never been here, and swear that they never will. Interna- tionally, too, its reputation isn’t high, and has only worsened as the ongoing and well-publicized | WHERE TO GO WHERE TO struggle against the mafia plumbs new depths. However, just two centuries ago Naples was one of the largest cities in Europe, and one of its greatest attractions, a | WHEN T must-visit for any self-respecting grand tourist. With Italian Unifi- cation, however, the power of the O GO new capital, Rome, increased while that of Naples waned; it never recovered its earlier prosperity, and is still run down in many aspects. But with caution, and good information, Naples is no more dangerous than anywhere else in Italy: the city has undergone something of a renaissance in the last decade or so, and is a more accessible, more dynamic and above all an easier and more enjoyable place to visit than it used to be. Previously off-limits churches and palaces have opened their doors to the public, and the transport network around the city and the Bay of Naples is now better integrated, with extensions to the metro system in the pipeline, only held up by archeological digs. And all around the bay, the hotel and restaurant scene has kept pace, too, with boutique B&Bs and chic bars opening up, offering a nod to contemporary style without sacrificing local traditions. Where to go he diversity of attractions on offer in Naples and its region means that – time permitting – you can pack a lot into your holiday. With just a weekend to spare, Naples makes a great city-break option, Tgiving you the right amount of time to cover the main sights, as well as wander enough of the atmospheric centro storico to get a feel for 6 the place; if you have a week at your disposal, you could also take in some of the bay’s famous archeological sights, as well as spend a couple of days 00 Naples Colour intro.indd 6 2/26/09 5:34:01 PM island-hopping – or bypass the city altogether and take the dramatic coast | road to the towns around Amalfi. Any longer than this and you can explore INTRODUCTION the city, coast and islands at your leisure – great public transport connec- tions cut travelling time to a minimum. If Naples is your base, head straight for the centro storico – a UNESCO world heritage site
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