The Rough Guide to Naples & the Amalfi Coast

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About this book

Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to use. The book is divided into the following sections, and you should be able to ﬁnd whatever you need in one of them.

The introductory colour section is designed to give you a feel for Naples and the Amalﬁ Coast, suggesting when to go and what not to miss, and includes a full list of contents. Then comes basics, for pre-departure information and other practicalities.

The guide chapters cover the region in depth, each starting with a highlights panel, introduction and a map to help you plan your route.

Contexts ﬁlls you in on history, books and ﬁlm while individual

colour sections introduce Neapolitan cuisine and performance. Language

gives you an extensive menu reader and enough Italian to get by.
The book concludes with all the small print, including details of how to send in updates and corrections, and a comprehensive index.

This ﬁrst edition published May 2009.

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy

and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Naples & the Amalﬁ

Coast, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

The Rough Guide to

Naples & the Amalﬁ Coast

written and researched by

Martin Dunford

with additional contributions by

Jeffrey Kennedy and Katie Parla

www.roughguides.com

Contents

The Camorra.......................... 244 Books and ﬁlm....................... 246

Colour section

1

Introduction ............................... 5 Where to go ............................... 6 When to go .............................. 10 Things not to miss ................... 12

Language

251

Italian pronunciation .............. 253 Words and phrases................ 254 Italian menu reader ................ 256 Glossary of artistic and

Basics

17

architectural terms .............. 260
Getting there............................ 19

Arrival ...................................... 22 Getting around......................... 23 Accommodation....................... 25 Food and drink ........................ 27 The media................................ 30 Festivals .................................. 31 Travel essentials ...................... 33

Small print & Index

263

Cucina napoletana

colour section following p.112

Guide

39

Theatrical Naples

colour section following p.160

1 Naples................................. 41 2 The Campi Flegrei............... 99 3 South of Naples ................ 115 4 The Amalﬁ Coast............... 143 5 The islands........................ 173 6 North of Naples................. 219

Colour maps following

p.272

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Contexts

235

History ................................... 237 Art and architecture ............... 240

3

̇̇ Largo del Corpo di Nilo statue, Naples ̇ The Duomo, Amalﬁ

4

7 F O U P U F O F ꢀ ꢆ ꢀ 1 P O [ B

1 P S U P ꢀ 7 F D D I J P ꢀ ꢆ ꢀ 1 B M B V

Introduction to

Naples & the Amalﬁ Coast

Italy’s third largest city after Rome and Milan, Naples couldn’t be more different from its counterparts further north. Waves of invaders, from the Greeks to the Bourbons, have washed up here, making the city a unique hybrid: the ancient centre still bears the imprint of the Greeks and Romans, while a wealth of monumental Baroque buildings are the legacy of Spanish rule, and breezy seafront promenades give parts of the city a riviera-type feel. The city’s prime vantage point in the Bay of Naples, within easy reach of an array of attractions, is a further draw: some of Europe’s greatest archeological sites are scattered around the bay, not to mention the seismic wonders of Mount Vesuvius and the Campi Flegrei; Italy’s most jaw-dropping stretch of coast snakes around Amalﬁ just a few miles south; and the fabled islands of the bay are so close that they’re virtually suburbs of the city.

But it’s the locals themselves that really set this region apart.All the pride and resentment of the Italian south, all the historical diﬀerences between the two wildly disparate halves of Italy, are sharply brought into focus here, particularly in Naples: both a lawless, petulant city that has its own way of doing things, and an intensely Catholic one, its streets punctuated by bright neon Madonnas cut into niches, and its miraculous cults regulating the lives of the people much as they have always done.

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The Naples region comes with a lot of baggage; plenty of Italians have never been here, and swear that they never will. Internationally, too, its reputation isn’t high, and has only worsened as the ongoing and well-publicized struggle against the mafia plumbs new depths. However, just two centuries ago Naples was one of the largest cities in Europe, and one of its greatest attractions, a must-visit for any self-respecting grand tourist. With Italian Unifi- cation, however, the power of the new capital,Rome,increased while that of Naples waned; it never recovered its earlier prosperity, and is still run down in many aspects. But with caution,and good information,Naples is no more dangerous than anywhere else in Italy: the city has undergone something of a renaissance in the last decade or so, and is a more accessible, more dynamic and above all an easier and more enjoyable place to visit than it used to be. Previously off-limits churches and palaces have opened their doors to the public, and the transport network around the city and the Bay of Naples is now better integrated, with extensions to the metro system in the pipeline, only held up by archeological digs.And all around the bay, the hotel and restaurant scene has kept pace, too, with boutique B&Bs and chic bars opening up, offering a nod to contemporary style without sacrificing local traditions.

Where to go

he diversity of attractions on oﬀer in Naples and its region means that – time permitting – you can pack a lot into your holiday.With just a weekend to spare, Naples makes a great city-break option,

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giving you the right amount of time to cover the main sights, as well as wander enough of the atmospheric centro storico to get a feel for the place; if you have a week at your disposal, you could also take in some of the bay’s famous archeological sights, as well as spend a couple of days

6

island-hopping – or bypass the city altogether and take the dramatic coast road to the towns around Amalﬁ.Any longer than this and you can explore the city, coast and islands at your leisure – great public transport connections cut travelling time to a minimum.

If Naples is your base, head straight for the centro storico – a UNESCO

world heritage site – whose dead-straight streets follow the grid of the ancient Greek and Roman settlements the city was founded on.This area is Naples’ spiritual heart, home to an array of churches and palaces, and a street-level commerce that couldn’t be further from the homogenized centres of many of Europe’s major cities.The big museums and attractions are elsewhere, but if you experience only one thing in the city, it should be this.

Beyond the old centre, Via Toledo is the modern hub of Naples, a busy

shopping street that leads up from a cluster of portside attractions – the

Palazzo Reale, Teatro di San Carlo and Castel Nuovo, among others – to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, which despite tragic neglect

remains one of the great museums of Europe, home to the best of the region’s ancient Roman ﬁnds.West ofVia Toledo, the jungle of congested streets that make up the notorious Quartieri Spagnoli neighbourhood rubs shoulders with the elegant boulevards of Chiaia, a haven of designer shopping and high-end dining that is quite at odds with much of the rest of the city. Up above, reachable by funicular, Vómero is similarly wellheeled, a nineteenth-century residential quarter that boasts heart-stopping views and some of the city’s most historic museums, most notably in the Certosa di San Martino. Northeast of here, on another of Naples’ hills, Capodimonte harbours a former residence of the Neapolitan royals, now

home to the excellent Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte,one of Italy’s

ﬁnest art collections.

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But there’s plenty to draw you out of the city too. To the south, the

evocative remains of ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum need little

introduction, but Roman ruins have been unearthed all along the coast,

and the less famous remains of Villa Oplontis and Stabiae are also worth

a visit. But there’s more to this stretch of coast than relics: an ascent of Vesuvius, which dominates the coast south of the city, is an exhilarating experience, and you can access the gentler slopes of wooded Monte Faito by cable car. Beyond here, the sprawl of Naples peters out and you’re into more obviously holiday territory, concluding with the resort town of Sorrento – an appealing mixture of earthiness and elegance. To the west of Naples lie the fabled Phlegrean Fields or Campi Flegrei, so named for the volcanic activity that has been a feature of the region for centuries. The remarkable Solfatara, just outside the main town of Pozzuoli, is the most visible instance of this: an otherworldly landscape of bubbling mud and sulphurous fumaroles. Pozzuoli itself is home to a number of sights dating back to a time when it was the principal port of ancient Rome – remains which provide a taster of the ruined cities of Báia and Cumae beyond. North of Naples lie more ancient sites, principally in Cápua and in the provincial capital of Benevento, but the area’s real draw is the vast royal palace at Caserta, an eighteenth-century pile which dominates the town. The Amalfi Coast draws crowds of admiring visitors, and no wonder: its crags and cliffs, girdled by a spectacular coastal road, are as mind-blowing as you are given to expect. If you avoid the tourist hotspots, and travel outside the peak months of July and August, you’ll find it bearably busy,

and stunning coastal towns like Amalﬁ, Ravello and Atrani are some of

the highlights of the entire region.

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The best of Naples

One of the real draws of Naples and its region is the incredible variety of attractions on offer along this short stretch of coast, from a wealth of art treasures to world-class cuisine, from chichi coastal resorts to a slumbering volcano. Below is our pick of the best places to go for ... adventure Making the hike to the crater of Mount Vesuvius is an unmissable – and surprisingly manageable – experience. See p.122. a big night out Naples’ centro storico is the hub of the city’s nightlife, with a lively mix of bohemian bars and chic cocktail lounges. See p.90. a budget getaway Avoid the pricey coast and islands and your holiday budget will go a long way – Naples itself has plenty of inexpensive accommodation, and makes a good base for day-trips across the rest of the region. See p.45. culture The impressive collections of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and Museo di Capodimonte, plus the modern art museum, MADRE, not to mention the numerous churches crammed with Baroque art, make Naples the obvious base for a cultural break. See p.72, p.77 & p.57. a family holiday Ischia’s long, sandy beaches make the island the ideal choice for a break with the kids. See p.195. getting back to nature Hike into the hinterland of the Sorrentine peninsula to escape the crowds and experience the beauty of the region in its most primal form. See p.132. lazing on the beach Prócida has plenty of attractive beaches to choose from – and they’re rarely overcrowded. See p.216. miracles The blood of Naples’ patron saint San Gennaro liquefies three times a year – to much local rejoicing. See p.56. pampering The thermal spas of Ischia are perfect for easing away aches and pains. See p.195. people-watching Long the preferred retreat of VIPs, from Roman emperors to modern-day superstars, Cápri has always provided plenty of opportunities for ogling. See p.185. a romantic break The stupendous backdrop of the Amalfi Coast makes this the perfect romantic hideaway, not least the swanky hotels of hilltop Ravello. See p.161. seaside fun Sorrento is the perfect coastal resort, with a lovely old town, good restaurants and appealing hotels at all prices – and its location is hard to beat too. See p.132. a slap-up meal Naples is arguably Italy’s greatest foodie location – not just the home of pizza, but great pasta, and freshly caught fish and seafood too. See p.86. stepping back in time The towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum, both buried in the 79 AD eruption of Vesuvius, are a fascinating insight into the daily life of the ancient Romans. See p.117 & p.125. a taste of the high life Five-star luxury is what Cápri does best, from its blow-the-budget hotels to its chic restaurants, frequented by a suitably glamorous clientele. See p.180.

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The islandsof the bay of Naples

– Cápri, Ischia and Prócida – are a massive draw, and many people arrive at Naples’ train station or port and ship right out again on the ﬁrst ferry.Of the three islands, Ischia has perhaps the broadest appeal, much larger than its neighbours, and with an assortment of attractions that make it suitable for everything from a day-trip to a fortnight’s holiday: climb to the top of its extinct volcano, relax in its healing spa waters, or just eat and laze the days away in one of its smallscale resorts. Cápri is smaller and more scenically spectacular, but it can be heaving in high season – and its high prices reﬂect its

̆ Galleria Umberto I, Naples

popularity.The dazzling landscape and sharp Mediterranean light make it truly special, however, and it would be a pity to come to Naples and not visit at least brieﬂy – though it’s best out of season or after the day-tripping hoards have gone home.Tiny Prócida is an alternative – largely unknown except to the locals, and out of season at least a sleepy haven of ﬁshing villages and picturesque beaches.

When to go

ike the rest of southern Italy, Naples enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm summers and mild winters.The hottest months are June through to August, although temperatures are rarely

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uncomfortably high, and the islands and coast enjoy the beneﬁt of a cooling breeze.The wettest period tends to be the autumn and early winter, when the region is prone to thunderstorms and downpours, particularly in October. January and February can be also be wet and cold, but conditions usually improve by March and April. The best times to visit are warm and sunny May, June and September, also the months of the year when you’re most likely to catch a festival

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(see p.31). The soaring temperatures of August, and the fact that this is when the Italians take their annual holiday, make this the month to avoid, especially in the coastal resorts. To get the beneﬁt of oﬀ-season hotel rates, it’s worth considering a visit outside of these times: from April to mid-May and mid-September to October the prices are cheaper and the main centres are less busy.

Naples weather

The table shows average daytime temperatures and rainfall in Naples.

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Average daytime temperatures

°C °F

8

9

12

54
14 57
18 64
22 72
25 77
26 79
22 72
18 64
13 55
8

46

48

46

Rainfall (mm)

96

81

76

51

37

23

30

78 132 127 116

11

15

things not to miss

It ’ s n ot possible to see everything that Naples and the Amalfi Coast have to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you tr y . What follows is a selective taste of the region ’ s h ighlights: great places to visit, outstanding buildings and spectacular scener y . They’re arranged in colour-coded categories, which you can browse through to find the very best things to see and experience . A ll entries have a page reference to take you straight into the guide, where you can find out more.

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Villa Cimbrone, Ravello Page 164 • The fabulous views from the belvedere
01here have graced a thousand postcards – but you still won’t be disappointed.
Monte Faito Page 131 • The cable-car ride to the top of the mountain is

02

spectacular, and its wooded heights offer plenty of opportunities for circular hikes, or even a trek to Positano on the other side of the peninsula.

Sorrento Page 132 • The

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Italian resort at its best, Sorrento is a lovely, elegant small town given over to the pursuit of pleasure.

Museo di Capodimonte,

03Naples Page 76 • Housed in a vast

palace above Naples’ city centre, this is one of the ﬁnest collections of Renaissance art in Italy.

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Pizza, Naples Page 86 •

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Where better to eat pizza than in the place where it was invented? Neapolitan-style pizza has a soft, thin base and simple toppings, baked quickly in a scorchingly hot oven.

Pompeii and Herculaneum

05

Pages 117 & 125 • Preserved by ash in the

79 AD eruption of Vesuvius, these two towns are a remarkable record of ancient Roman life: few other ancient sites come close.

Villa San Michele,

08Cápri Page 188 • In contrast

to Cápri’s well-documented glamour, Axel Munthe’s idyllic home surrounded by fragrant gardens reﬂects the island’s simpler charms.

Duomo, Naples Page 55 • Naples’

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cathedral is a real treasure trove, with

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Baroque art and excavations from the Greek and Roman eras, as well as the ornate San Gennaro chapel.

Centro storico, Naples Page

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55 • There’s nowhere like it – in Italy or the world: wandering these ancient streets and soaking up the atmosphere is an essential Naples experience.

Museo Archeologico,

10Naples Page 72 • Quite

simply, one of the world’s greatest collections of archeological artefacts – and an opportunity to see items unearthed at Pompeii and Herculaneum up close.

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Vesuvius Page 122 • Climbing to the summit of mainland Europe’s only active

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volcano is almost obligatory on a trip to the Bay of Naples. La Mortella, Ischia Page 205 • This Mediterranean paradise, created from

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a volcanic stone quarry, makes a spectacular setting for concerts in memory of the gardens’ founder, the English composer Sir William Walton.

Solfatara

13

Page 105 • It’s

not every day you get the chance to walk inside the crater of a volcano: the bubbling Solfatara offer the rare opportunity to view geological phenomena up close.

Amalﬁ Page 154 • The

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whitewashed streets of the ancient maritime republic Amalﬁ, and its smaller neighbour, Atrani, are the most appealing places to stay on the Amalﬁ Coast.