The Best of Campania & the Amalfi Coast
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04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 1 1 The Best of Campania & the Amalfi Coast Campania—the region that encompasses Naples and the Amalfi Coast—is, for many tourists, terra incognita. But for Italians, it is a place of myth. In fact, centuries before the rise of Rome, it was coveted by Greek settlers and other immigrants, and the ancient Romans may have valued this region more than all their far-flung possessions. In this chapter, we’ll help you discover the best of the region by pointing you toward its major treasures. 1 The Best Travel Experiences • Visiting Naples and its Centro out of view, gliding into the bay with Antico: One of Italy’s lesser-known a sea breeze behind you and the city art cities, Naples will surprise you spread out ahead can be magnificent. with its stunning collection of exqui- The majestic and somewhat ominous site frescoes, paintings, and sculp- presence of Vesuvius looming over tures, which cover its numerous the bay makes it that much more dra- monasteries, palaces, churches, and matic. You can arrive by regular ferry museums. From the early Greek set- from one of the islands or even from tlers to modern times, Naples has one of the other harbors in Campa- been the most important harbor in nia, such as Salerno or Sorrento. We the south of Italy. Kings and noble recommend arriving during the very families have lavished art on the city early morning or in the evening when as nowhere else in Italy except Rome, the sun is sinking below the horizon, making Naples a competitor with bathing the city in gold and orange; Florence and Venice. A key stop for upon soaking in the sight, you’ll art lovers during the “Grand Tour,” instantly understand the motivation Naples was later forgotten due to the behind the old saying, “See Naples complete abandonment of its monu- and die.” ments. But thanks to sustained efforts • Hiking the Ancient Paths of the over theCOPYRIGHTED past 10 to 15 years, Naples is Amalfi MATERIAL Coast: Even if you’re not in again experiencing a tourism boom. great shape, taking a stroll on one of See “Exploring Naples” in chapter 4. the Amalfi Coast’s footpaths—once • Arriving in Naples by Boat: You the only means of communication don’t have to book a transatlantic between the region’s towns—ratchets cruise to have this marvelous experi- up the intensity of this amazing ence. While arriving in Naples by car seascape. The region’s main road— can be nerve-racking, confusing, and the famed Amalfi Drive—was built hot, with most landmarks annoyingly in 1840 and made the area more 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 2 2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST accessible, perhaps too much so. The region can be found at these two old trails, on the other hand, are famous and trendy resorts, which unique, and lead you through the stock treasure troves of unique, hand- Amalfi Coast missed by so many made clothes and shoes. You can still tourists. Trails come in all levels of dif- find tailors in Positano and cobblers ficulty, from flat stretches (such as the in both towns who will make you footpath from Amalfi to Atrani) to sandals or garments on the spot, downhill ones (such as the footpath while you wait—or, even better, from Ravello to Minori) to more while you go for a swim. See chapter demanding ones (including the Sen- 7 for addresses in Positano and chap- tiero degli Dei and the Via degli ter 9 for Capri. Incanti from Positano). See chapter 7. • Wandering through Ancient • Exploring Greek Ruins: The first Roman Lanes: Walking the streets of colony the Greeks established in Italy Pompeii and Herculaneum gives you was Cuma, near Pozzuoli. From an eerie feeling; it’s romantic and sad, there, they expanded south to the rest and even a little scary. At the center of of the Campanian coast. The heritage the lanes’ mesmeric attraction is the they left in Campania is immense— knowledge that their violent destruc- rivaled in Italy only by Sicily—and in tion and miraculous preservation a state of conservation seen only in both happened on one terrible day, Greece itself. This is Magna Grecia, nearly two thousand years ago. And, where ancient Greece first spread its with a little imagination, it can feel influence into Italy, setting the stage like it’s still that day here. The Villa for what we call Western culture. In dei Papiri in Herculaneum and the these temples and towns, you literally Terme Suburbane in Pompeii have get the chance to walk in the foot- been opened to the public for the first steps of Plato and Aristotle’s contem- time in 2004 and 2002, respec- poraries. See chapters 4 and 10. tively—but the best sites here might • Eating Pizza Neapolitan Style: For be some of the lesser known, such as Neapolitans, there is no other “style” the magnificent Villa di Poppea in of pizza, because they invented it. Oplontis with its wonderful frescoes, Whether you prefer a simple pizza the Villa Arianna and the Villa di San joint or an elaborate restaurant, you’ll Marco in Castellammare di Stabia, share the pride Neapolitans feel for and the Villa Romana of Minori. See their invention, now taken over by chapters 5, 7, and 10. the whole planet. The decor may be • Listening to a Concert in a Typical simple and traditional (sometimes Campanian Medieval Cloister: The nonexistent), and you’ll usually have unique blend of cultures operating in a modest choice of toppings—only Campania gave birth to some of the two at Da Michele, reputed to make most splendid medieval cloisters ever the best pizza in Naples. Yet at built. Intertwined arches of Sicilian- whichever place you choose, the out- Norman architecture are used here to come will be tasty, satisfying, and dis- support the loggias of delightful inner tinctive, because in Naples, no two gardens where the sun, more often pizzas are alike. See “Where to Dine” than not, is shining on fruit-laden in chapter 4. citrus trees and ancient stone and tile • Shopping in Capri and Positano: work. During the summer, music fes- The best exclusive shopping in the tivals are held in most coastal towns 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 3 THE BEST RUINS 3 to take advantage of these magical Amalfi, the Villa Rufolo in Ravello, spaces. The best of the medieval mar- and the cloister of San Francesco in vels are the Chiostro del Paradiso in Sorrento. See chapters 6 and 7. 2 The Best Ruins • The Temples of Paestum: The three city that Cicero considered second temples and the complete set of walls only to Rome. The area is rich in here are the best Greek ruins in exis- other noteworthy ruins, such as the tence outside Greece. One of the splendid Mitreo (Temple to the three temples—the grandiose Temple Persian god Mithras), and museum of Neptune, whose restoration was collections. See chapter 10. finished in 2004, is simply the best- • Pompeii and Herculaneum: Will preserved Greek temple in the world, enough ever be said to describe these along with the Theseion in Athens. incredible sites? Even if you have Try to time your visit in spring or fall, already visited them in the past, new when the roses are in bloom and the findings are reason enough for a return ruins are at their most romantic. The visit. The magnificent Villa dei Papiri site is also stunning at dawn and sun- in Herculaneum was opened to the set in any season, when the temples’ public for the first time in 2004; the travertine surfaces glow golden in the Terme Suburbane in Pompeii was sun. See chapter 9. opened in 2002. The riches of the • The Acropolis of Cuma: The first archaeological area are best comple- Greek colony in Italy and a beacon of mented by a visit to the Museo Arche- Greek culture, Cuma was built on ologico Nazionale in Naples (see one of the most picturesque promon- below), to view its massive array of tories in Campania. In the enchant- frescoes and mosaics from earlier exca- ing area of the Phlegrean Fields, vations at both sites. See chapter 5. where so many myths reside (the • Oplontis: Also called the Villa of Cave of the Sybil, Lake Averno and Poppea, these are the ruins of a splen- the entrance to the underworld, and did Roman villa—believed to be that so on), Cuma offers a stunning of Nero’s wife—with magnificent panorama and atmospheric ruins. See frescoes and decorations. Less known “Phlegrean Fields” in chapter 4. than other sites and often passed by • The Anfiteatro Campano: The hurried tourists who stop only in largest Roman amphitheater after the Pompeii or Herculaneum, this villa is Colosseum, the Campano offers a unique, not only for its state of con- glimpse at ancient artistry in spite of servation, but because modern active pillage here from the 9th cen- archaeology requires materials to be tury onwards. On-site is the Museo left in situ. The frescoes and statuary dei Gladiatori, a permanent exhibit grant you a fuller experience of the reconstructing the life of a gladiator; Romans’ daily lives. See chapter 5. it is housed in a building located on • Trajan’s Arch in Benevento: This is the probable site of Capua’s Gladiator the world’s best-preserved example of School—whose most famous gradu- an ancient Roman triumphal arch.