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Home , Amalfi Drive, Certosa di Padula, Grotta dello Smeraldo, Gulf of Salerno, Herculaneum, Lacco Ameno

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1 The Best of & the Coast

Campania—the region that encompasses and the —is, for many tourists, terra incognita. But for , it is a place of myth. In fact, centuries before the rise of , it was coveted by Greek settlers and other immigrants, and the ancient Romans may have valued this region more than all their far-flung possessions. In this chapter, we’ll help you discover the best of the region by pointing you toward its major treasures.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Visiting Naples and its Centro out of view, gliding into the bay with Antico: One of ’s lesser-known a sea breeze behind you and the city art cities, Naples will surprise you spread out ahead can be magnificent. with its stunning collection of exqui- The majestic and somewhat ominous site frescoes, paintings, and sculp- presence of Vesuvius looming over tures, which cover its numerous the bay makes it that much more dra- , palaces, churches, and matic. You can arrive by regular ferry museums. From the early Greek set- from one of the islands or even from tlers to modern times, Naples has one of the other harbors in Campa- been the most important harbor in nia, such as or . We the south of Italy. Kings and noble recommend arriving during the very families have lavished art on the city early morning or in the evening when as nowhere else in Italy except Rome, the sun is sinking below the horizon, making Naples a competitor with bathing the city in gold and orange; and . A key stop for upon soaking in the sight, you’ll art lovers during the “,” instantly understand the motivation Naples was later forgotten due to the behind the old saying, “See Naples complete abandonment of its monu- and die.” ments. But thanks to sustained efforts • Hiking the Ancient Paths of the over theCOPYRIGHTED past 10 to 15 years, Naples is Amalfi MATERIAL Coast: Even if you’re not in again experiencing a tourism boom. great shape, taking a stroll on one of See “Exploring Naples” in chapter 4. the Amalfi Coast’s footpaths—once • Arriving in Naples by Boat: You the only means of communication don’t have to book a transatlantic between the region’s towns—ratchets cruise to have this marvelous experi- up the intensity of this amazing ence. While arriving in Naples by car seascape. The region’s main road— can be nerve-racking, confusing, and the famed Amalfi Drive—was built hot, with most landmarks annoyingly in 1840 and made the area more 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 2

2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST accessible, perhaps too much so. The region can be found at these two old trails, on the other hand, are famous and trendy resorts, which unique, and lead you through the stock treasure troves of unique, hand- Amalfi Coast missed by so many made clothes and shoes. You can still tourists. Trails come in all levels of dif- find tailors in and cobblers ficulty, from flat stretches (such as the in both towns who will make you footpath from Amalfi to ) to sandals or garments on the spot, downhill ones (such as the footpath while you wait—or, even better, from to Minori) to more while you go for a swim. See chapter demanding ones (including the Sen- 7 for addresses in Positano and chap- tiero degli Dei and the Via degli ter 9 for . Incanti from Positano). See chapter 7. • Wandering through Ancient • Exploring Greek : The first Roman Lanes: Walking the streets of colony the Greeks established in Italy and gives you was Cuma, near . From an eerie feeling; it’s romantic and sad, there, they expanded south to the rest and even a little scary. At the center of of the Campanian coast. The heritage the lanes’ mesmeric attraction is the they left in Campania is immense— knowledge that their violent destruc- rivaled in Italy only by —and in tion and miraculous preservation a state of conservation seen only in both happened on one terrible day, Greece itself. This is Magna Grecia, nearly two thousand years ago. And, where ancient Greece first spread its with a little imagination, it can feel influence into Italy, setting the stage like it’s still that day here. The for what we call Western culture. In dei Papiri in Herculaneum and the these temples and towns, you literally Terme Suburbane in Pompeii have get the chance to walk in the foot- been opened to the public for the first steps of Plato and Aristotle’s contem- time in 2004 and 2002, respec- poraries. See chapters 4 and 10. tively—but the best sites here might • Eating Pizza Neapolitan Style: For be some of the lesser known, such as Neapolitans, there is no other “style” the magnificent Villa di Poppea in of pizza, because they invented it. with its wonderful frescoes, Whether you prefer a simple pizza the Villa Arianna and the Villa di San joint or an elaborate restaurant, you’ll Marco in , share the pride Neapolitans feel for and the Villa Romana of Minori. See their invention, now taken over by chapters 5, 7, and 10. the whole planet. The decor may be • Listening to a Concert in a Typical simple and traditional (sometimes Campanian Medieval Cloister: The nonexistent), and you’ll usually have unique blend of cultures operating in a modest choice of toppings—only Campania gave birth to some of the two at Da Michele, reputed to make most splendid medieval cloisters ever the best pizza in Naples. Yet at built. Intertwined arches of Sicilian- whichever place you choose, the out- Norman architecture are used here to come will be tasty, satisfying, and dis- support the loggias of delightful inner tinctive, because in Naples, no two gardens where the sun, more often pizzas are alike. See “Where to Dine” than not, is shining on fruit-laden in chapter 4. citrus trees and ancient stone and tile • Shopping in Capri and Positano: work. During the summer, music fes- The best exclusive shopping in the tivals are held in most coastal towns 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 3

THE BEST RUINS 3 to take advantage of these magical Amalfi, the in Ravello, spaces. The best of the medieval mar- and the cloister of San Francesco in vels are the Chiostro del Paradiso in Sorrento. See chapters 6 and 7.

2 The Best Ruins • The Temples of : The three city that Cicero considered second temples and the complete set of walls only to Rome. The area is rich in here are the best Greek ruins in exis- other noteworthy ruins, such as the tence outside Greece. One of the splendid Mitreo (Temple to the three temples—the grandiose Temple Persian god Mithras), and museum of , whose restoration was collections. See chapter 10. finished in 2004, is simply the best- • Pompeii and Herculaneum: Will preserved Greek temple in the world, enough ever be said to describe these along with the Theseion in Athens. incredible sites? Even if you have Try to time your visit in spring or fall, already visited them in the past, new when the roses are in bloom and the findings are reason enough for a return ruins are at their most romantic. The visit. The magnificent Villa dei Papiri site is also stunning at dawn and sun- in Herculaneum was opened to the set in any season, when the temples’ public for the first time in 2004; the travertine surfaces glow golden in the Terme Suburbane in Pompeii was sun. See chapter 9. opened in 2002. The riches of the • The Acropolis of Cuma: The first archaeological area are best comple- Greek colony in Italy and a beacon of mented by a visit to the Museo Arche- Greek culture, Cuma was built on ologico Nazionale in Naples (see one of the most picturesque promon- below), to view its massive array of tories in Campania. In the enchant- frescoes and mosaics from earlier exca- ing area of the Phlegrean Fields, vations at both sites. See chapter 5. where so many myths reside (the • Oplontis: Also called the Villa of Cave of the Sybil, Lake Averno and Poppea, these are the ruins of a splen- the entrance to the underworld, and did —believed to be that so on), Cuma offers a stunning of Nero’s wife—with magnificent panorama and atmospheric ruins. See frescoes and decorations. Less known “Phlegrean Fields” in chapter 4. than other sites and often passed by • The Anfiteatro Campano: The hurried tourists who stop only in largest Roman amphitheater after the Pompeii or Herculaneum, this villa is Colosseum, the Campano offers a unique, not only for its state of con- glimpse at ancient artistry in spite of servation, but because modern active pillage here from the 9th cen- requires materials to be tury onwards. On-site is the Museo left in situ. The frescoes and statuary dei Gladiatori, a permanent exhibit grant you a fuller experience of the reconstructing the life of a ; Romans’ daily lives. See chapter 5. it is housed in a building located on • Trajan’s Arch in : This is the probable site of ’s Gladiator the world’s best-preserved example of School—whose most famous gradu- an ancient Roman triumphal arch. ate was Spartacus, the slave made Recently restored—it took 14 years famous by the 1960 Stanley Kubrick of work before the arch was opened film. occu- again to the public in 2001—it is a pies the ground of Roman Capua, the masterpiece of carving that depicts 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST the deeds of the admired (and fairly into an archaeological park, it can benevolent) Roman Emperor Trajan. now be visited with scuba equipment Careful cleaning has eliminated (if you dive, you can rent gear directly darker areas in the , making through the park when you sign in for the reliefs much easier to read. Inside a guided visit)—or if you don’t like to a little Longobard church nearby is a get wet, you can tour the park in a permanent exhibit on the arch, its glass-bottom boat. The itinerary leads restoration, and Roman life under you through the streets of the ancient Trajan. See chapter 10. town and inside its beautiful , • Pozzuoli: The ruins of the ancient now water-filled. This magical experi- Roman town of Puteoli have been ence truly deserves the word unique. difficult to excavate since the busy See “Phlegrean Fields” in chapter 4. modern town occupies exactly the • : Overshadowed by Paestum same area as the original (much as and just a bit too far from Naples for Rome does). In the splendid frame of a day trip, Velia was the site of an Pozzuoli’s bay, you’ll find an under- important Greek settlement started ground Pompeii—buried not by a around 540 B.C. It gave birth to one volcanic explosion, but by sinking of the most important philosophical under unstable volcanic ground. The schools of antiquity—the Eleatic main attractions are the Rione Terra, school of Parmenides and Zeno. Velia with Roman streets and shops; the is one of the only Greek archaeologi- 1st-century Greco-Roman market cal sites showing remains not only of (Serapeo); and the Roman amphithe- an acropolis with its ruined temples, ater (Anfiteatro Flavio), where musi- but also of a lower town with some cal performances are held during houses. Portions of the walls here summer. See chapter 4. date from the 5th and 4th centuries • The Underwater Archeological B.C. A stretch of the original Greek Park of Baia: Due to subsiding pavement climbs towards the town ground, a large part of the ancient gate, the famous Porta Rosa. A high- Roman town of Baia was submerged light of the Roman period is the ther- by the sea. Excavated and transformed mal baths. See chapter 9.

3 The Best Churches & Cathedrals • Casertavecchia Cathedral: This church, contains a magnificent 4th- medieval church is one of the most century baptistery. See chapter 4. beautiful extant examples of Norman- • Complesso Monumentale di Santa Arab architecture, built with two col- Chiara: Another star on the Neapoli- ors of tufa stone and white marble, tan scene, this splendid church- and dotted with strange human and cum- holds splendid exam- animal figures. See chapter 10. ples of 14th-century sculpture that • Naples’s Duomo: The most splendid escaped the tragic bombing of World of Naples’s churches, and home of War II. (Other parts of the massive superb artwork, you’ll find that the structure were not so lucky but have Duomo is three churches in one. The been restored.) The spacious majolica Cappella di San Gennaro is really a cloister holds a plethora of mytholog- church, with a fantastic treasure on ical, pastoral, and whimsical scenes display in the attached museum. Santa enchanting to behold in the open air. Restituta, the original 6th-century See chapter 4. 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 5

THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES 5 • San Lorenzo Maggiore: Originally examples of Renaissance frescoes and built in the 6th century, this is a carvings. See chapter 10. lesser-known church in Naples, but • Sant’Angelo in Formis: This is one it’s famous for its literary guests— of the most important Romanesque Boccaccio (who met his darling churches in the whole country. Its Fiammetta here), Francesco Petrarca, entire interior is graced with beautiful and others. It holds splendid Renais- frescoes. The church’s lovely setting is sance masterpieces and a multilayered Mount Tifata, near Capua. See chap- archaeological site, where you can ter 10. descend like a time traveler through • Santa Sofia: Dating back to the early layers of buildings all the way down Longobard kingdom in Benevento, to a paleochristian basilica and the this small medieval church is famous 1st-century Roman Macellum (Mar- for its unique star-shaped floor plan ket). See chapter 4. and the integration of Longobard and • Chiesa della Santissima Annunzi- Catholic symbols. See chapter 10. ata: This church is located in Min- • Certosa di (Carthusian uto, one of the medieval hamlets of Monastery of San Lorenzo): Begun the township of Scala, which in the 14th century, this magnificent stretches along the cliffs of the Amalfi monastery—one of the largest in the Coast. The church offers not only world—is a baroque masterpiece, some of the region’s best examples of chock-full of art and architectural Romanesque architecture and beauti- details, and only a short distance ful 12th-century frescoes, but also a from Salerno. See chapter 9. superb panorama. See chapter 7. • San Guglielmo al Goleto: Located • Duomo di Santa Maria Capua Vet- in Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi—way ere: Dating originally from the 5th off the beaten track in —this century, this beautiful paleochristian magnificent 12th-century fortified church has been redecorated in later monastery is one of the most scenic centuries, but it contains artworks and picturesque sights in all Italy. See reaching back to Roman times (its chapter 10. columns and capitals), as well as

4 The Best Castles & Palaces • Castel dell’Ovo: The symbol of for the Bourbon kings in the 18th cen- Naples and the most picturesque icon tury. It holds fantastic art pieces (it’s of the Naples waterfront, this castle is completely covered with decorations) the city’s oldest fortification—dating and is famed for one of the most beau- back to its origin in the 9th century tiful Italian gardens in the world. The B.C. Greek settlement. Its founda- massive scale of the palace, and the tions are said to be built over a magic quality of the artwork, have to be seen egg hidden by the poet-magician Vir- to be believed. See chapter 10. gil for the defense of the city (which • Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino): will crumble into ruin if the egg is This 13th-century castle was the resi- destroyed). See chapter 4. dence of Neapolitan kings until the • Reggia di Caserta: The Versailles of 17th century. Although a fire in the Italy, this splendid royal palace was 16th century destroyed its beautiful built by the famous architect Vanvitelli frescoes by Giotto, there is still 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST enough in this majestic fortress to • Villa Rufolo: This splendid villa in impress visitors. See chapter 4. Ravello has been made famous by its • Palazzo Reale: The beautiful Royal and gardens, which inspired Palace of Naples dominates wide Wagner to write some of his Parsifal, so Piazza del Plebiscito with its neoclas- moved was he by its vistas. Today, you sical facade and statues of kings. can listen to concerts of Wagner’s work Inside, you’ll find a rich collection of in the same setting. See chapter 7. art and decorations as well as a won- • : The second most derful library. See chapter 4. famous villa in Ravello, also with a • Castel Lauritano: This ruined castle splendid panoramic terrace, the Villa in , a town on the Amalfi Cimbrone has another attraction: It Coast, is incredibly picturesque and houses a small hotel and a restaurant, offers extensive views over both the which was opened to the public in coast and the interior. See chapter 7. 2005. See chapter 7.

5 The Best Museums • Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte: reorganization, which was finished in Created by the Bourbon kings, this 2005. See chapter 4. picture gallery is one of the best in • Museo Nazionale della Ceramica the world, holding paintings from the Duca di Martina: Housed in the 13th century onwards. The catalogue splendid Villa Floridiana up in looks like a book on art history, com- Naples’s Vomero neighborhood, this plete with all the famous names of rich ceramic collection includes the Italian art and many members of the most important assemblage of Flemish school. The regular special in the world. exhibits draw visitors from all over See chapter 4. Italy, Europe, and the world. (The • Museo Campano: This museum in success of these special exhibits is Capua has a tall order, as the reposi- such that you’ll need advance reserva- tory of the history and culture of the tions to get in, unless you don’t mind whole Campania region. It does a standing in line for several hours.) great job, though, with its several col- See chapter 4. lections, covering the whole ancient • Museo Archeologico Nazionale: history of the area, from the Oscans Even if you are only mildly interested (about 6th century B.C.) to the in archaeology, you should not miss Renaissance. It has a magnificent col- this wonderful museum, which holds lection of parchment and illuminated the largest collection of ancient . See chapter 10. Roman artifacts in the world. Created • Museo del Duomo: This museum in in the 17th century—with original Salerno is not large, but it holds a Roman mosaics re-used in the floors number of invaluable masterpieces and statues incorporated in the facade ranging from Roman times to the decoration—this is where the best Renaissance and baroque periods. It finds from Pompeii and other sites includes a unique collection of ivory were placed on display. The huge carvings, a great picture gallery, and a quantity of frescoes, statuary, and pre- rich collection of illuminated manu- cious objects has benefited from a scripts. See chapter 9. 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 7

THE BEST SWIMMING & SUNBATHING SPOTS 7 • Museo del Sannio: Housed in the outlying region of Avellino. The beautiful cloister of Santa Sofia in objects date back into the distant past Benevento, this is a small but well- long before the Romans (or even the rounded collection of artifacts from a Greeks) came to the region—as far local temple. It includes the largest back as 4000 B.C. See chapter 10. collection of Egyptian art found at • Museo Archeologico dei Campi any archaeological site in Italy. See Flegrei: Housed in the picturesque chapter 10. Aragonese Castle of Baia, this is • Museo Irpino: This modern museum another great treasure trove of displays a collection of artifacts found Roman and Greek art in the vicinity in the rich archaeological sites in the of Naples. See chapter 4.

6 The Best Swimming & Sunbathing Spots • : This lesser-known very nice beaches—although they’re resort town on the Sorrentine penin- hardly deserted. Besides the central sula is endowed with several Spiaggia Grande by the Marina, beaches—most of them small and you’ll find Fornillo to the west of hidden away inside picturesque town, and La Porta, Ciumicello, coves, including Marina di Equa, Arienzo, and Laurito to the east. See dominated by a powerful 17th-cen- chapter 7. tury tower. See chapter 6. • Spiaggia di Citara: This is the most • Punta del Capo: This lovely beach beautiful beach on the island of near Sorrento under the cliffs has , near the little town of . attracted visitors from time immemo- Besides the lovely scenery, there are rial. Nearby, you’ll find the ruins of a several natural thermal springs. See Roman villa and a small pool of water chapter 8. enclosed by rocks, known as the Bath • Lido dei Maronti: Also on Ischia, this 1 of Queen Giovanna. See chapter 6. beach is a delightful 2km (1 ⁄4-mile) • Bay of Ieranto: Part of the Marine stretch of fine sand. See chapter 8. Preserve of Punta Campanella, this • Marina di Paestum: Greek temples unique fjord was almost lost to devel- are not the only reason to come to opers, who would have spoiled its Paestum. The sandy beach here is one beauty forever. When the light is just of the best in Italy, extending for right at day’s end, the clarity of the miles along the clear blue sea. See waters here creates the illusion of boats chapter 9. floating in mid-air. See chapter 6. • Baia della Calanca: In beautiful • : Although Marina di Camerota, this is one of this grotto in the village of Conca dei the nicest beaches in the , Marini on the Amalfi Coast is usually and is famed for its clear waters. See visited by boat, it is also the destina- chapter 9. tion of a scuba procession on Christ- • Bagni di Tiberio: This is the best of mas night. The pretty beach can the rare and tiny beaches of Capri. be visited anytime, however. See As the name suggests, it lies near the chapter 7. ruins of one of Emperor Tiberius’s • Positano: The most famous resort on notorious pleasure palaces. It is acces- the Amalfi Coast, Positano has several sible by a rocky steep path or by boat. See chapter 8. 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST

7 The Best Spas • Parco Termale Giardini Poseidon: • Castellammare di Stabia: This pleas- This is our favorite thermal spa. ant seaside resort is blessed with 28 Located on beautiful Ischia, the natural thermal springs which you Poseidon boasts scenic outdoor ther- can enjoy at one of the two public mal pools from which you can enjoy spas: the historical one built by the great views and a variety of aesthetic Bourbon kings or the modern estab- and health treatments. See chapter 8. lishment on the slopes of Mount • Ischia Thermal Center: In the small Faito. Both offer a wide range of serv- town of Ischia, this is one of the most ices, from beauty and relaxation treat- modern spas on the island, where you ments to medical ones. See chapter 5. can enjoy a variety of state-of-the-art • Scrajo Terme: At the beginning of modern services. See chapter 8. the Sorrentine peninsula, just outside • Terme della Regina Isabella: Among the pleasant resort town of In Vico the most famous and elegant spas on Equense, you’ll find this historic ther- Ischia, this historical establishment in mal establishment dating back to the exclusive Lacco Ameno offers state-of- 19th century. Stayovers are offered so the-art facilities. See chapter 8. that visitors can “take the waters” in style. See chapter 6.

8 The Best Vistas • Lungomare di Salerno: Italy’s best- road; the views are indeed superb. See kept secret may be the seaside prom- chapter 7. enade of laid-back Salerno. A • Lake Fusaro: In the picturesque splendid and completely pedestrian Phlegrean Fields, not far from Poz- walkway lined with palm trees, it zuoli, this beautiful lake was chosen offers views encompassing the whole by the Bourbon kings as the site for bay from Capri to Punta in the the Casina Reale, a structural jewel Cilento. See chapter 9. designed by the architect Vanvitelli. • Deserto: From the terraces of this Today, as back then, the Casina Reale Carmelite hermitage near Sant’Agata commands royal views perfect for dei Golfi, you can enjoy the famous, picture taking. See chapter 4. unique circular panorama encom- • Monte Cervati: The highest peak of passing both the with the Cilento massif, Cervati is famous Sorrento and the islands, and the for its beauty in summer—when it with the Amalfi turns purple with lavender fields— Coast. On a good day, you can see and for the magnificent views from almost the whole region, from the its top. See chapter 9. Cilento—way off to the south of • Agropoli: From the walls of the Paestum—to Capo , to the medieval citadel you can look down islands of Ischia and , and to on vast stretches of coastline—a view Capri. See chapter 6. that helped the Saracens hold onto • Belvedere dello Schiaccone: This is Agropoli as the base for their incur- the best lookout along the whole sions until they were finally dislodged Amalfi Drive, located just west of in the 11th century. See chapter 9. Positano and accessible from the 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 9

THE BEST LUXURY STAYS 9

9 The Best Restaurants • Don Alfonso 1890: This is one of which is worth a visit all by itself. See the top Italian gourmet addresses and chapter 7. the best restaurant south of Naples, • La Stanza del Gusto: This small created and maintained by hosts restaurant in Naples is the kingdom Lidia and Alfonso Iaccarino. The of Mario Avallone, chef and perfect restaurant, a member of the Relais & host. The “Hall of Tastes,” as it might Châteaux association, has a luxurious be called in English, is a wonderful decor and offers superb food made of world where only the best ingredients ingredients mainly from the chefs’ and most pleasurable associations— own organic farm. See chapter 6. some based on traditional Neapolitan • Taverna del Capitano: Competing cuisine—are to be found. The decor for the title of best restaurant on the is intimate and vaguely bohemian, with Don serving as the perfect background for Alfonso, this is our preferred spot to the chef’s inventive dishes. The prix- eat in the area. It might not have the fixe menu is an adventure more than elegance of Don Alfonso (though it’s a sampler, and the wine list is a tome. not a place to drop by in your See chapter 4. bathing attire, either); it has a more • George’s: Located on the roof terrace down-to-earth atmosphere and an of the Grand Hotel Parker’s (see enthusiasm for homegrown food that below), this is a truly elegant restau- we find irresistible. See chapter 6. rant happily devoid of stuffiness or • Faro di Capo d’Orso: Owned by a ostentation. There’s no snobbery here, young, emerging chef—Rocco Ian- only the best that money can buy. none—the Faro (Lighthouse) is one Chef Baciòt brings together the ingre- of the culinary highlights of the dients of tasty and healthy dishes Amalfi Coast, supplemented by a which marry tradition with nutrition. unique location that offers stunning The service and surroundings are views of this stretch of coast. See impeccable, and the wine list is chapter 7. among the best in Italy. See chapter 4. • Ristorante Il San Pietro: The • La Cantinella: This well-known restaurant of the famous hotel in restaurant proudly serves a classic ver- Positano with the same name (see sion of traditional Neapolitan cui- later in this chapter), Il San Pietro sine, with a large share of the menu offers the fine cuisine of chef Alois dedicated to seafood. You’ll have to Vanlangenacker—all based on ingre- make your reservations early, because dients from the hotel’s own farm— it is very popular with local crowds. and a delightfully romantic setting See chapter 4.

10 The Best Luxury Stays • Grand Hotel Parker’s (& 081- it offers superb service, classy accom- 7612474): This is Naples’s most modations, and one of the best romantic luxury hotel, competing restaurants in the country (see ear- with the Vesuvio (see below) for the lier). See chapter 4. title of best hotel in town. Housed in • Grand Hotel Vesuvio (& 081- a magnificent Liberty-style building, 7640044): This is generally considered 04_595903 ch01.qxp 2/22/06 7:16 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST

the best hotel in Naples, offering pala- • Hotel Santa Caterina (& 089- tial accommodations and exquisite 871012): Amalfi’s most luxurious service. You will be pampered the hotel, on a cliff just out of town, this moment you step through the doors. A is where you’ll want to come to be turndown service includes signature pampered away from the crowds— quality chocolates, not mere mints, on and to enjoy the hotel’s beautiful pri- your pillow. You can have dinner in the vate beach, swimming pool, and lush gourmet roof-restaurant where you’ll gardens. See chapter 7. be fussed over by a professional maitre • Hotel Le (& 089-875066): d’. Every detail here is truly first-class. Competing for the title of best hotel See chapter 4. in Positano with the San Pietro above, • Hotel San Pietro Positano (& 800- this gorgeous hotel is housed in a 7352478): A member of the Relais & beautiful 18th-century villa overlook- Châteaux group, this elegant hotel is ing the sea. It offers palatial accom- one of our preferred places to stay in modations and fine service. See the whole of Italy. You’ll understand chapter 7. why as soon as you step inside. The • Grand Hotel Quisisana Capri romantic views from their terraces, (& 081-8370788): The glitziest the kind and attentive service, the resort on Capri, this luxury hotel pro- colorful and cheerful—yet magnifi- vides its guests with splendid accom- cently tasteful—furnishing details: modations and exquisite service. The We love everything about this place. hotel’s bar and restaurant are popular See chapter 7. spots for visiting socialites, so it’s • Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria worth stopping by just to enjoy the (& 081-8071044): This gorgeous atmosphere. See chapter 8. hotel is the best in Sorrento, housed • Capri Palace (& 081-9780111): in what once was a palatial residence This is the best hotel on Capri, which overlooking the sea. The antiques in naturally means elegance, breathtak- the guest rooms, the picturesque ter- ing views, and deluxe furnishings in races, and the service make this an rooms decorated with artwork and ideal hotel, right in the center of antiques. The service is impeccable. town (but with its own elevator down See chapter 8. to a private beach). See chapter 6.