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Naples Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast 4

Naples Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast 4

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PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to , welcome to & the Naples, Pompeii & the AmalÀ Amalfi Coast...... 2 Coast Map ...... 4 10 Top Experiences ...... 6 Need to Know ...... 12 First Time ...... 14 History & Art Monumentale di Maggiore to the outrageous rococo of its Chiesa di San COUNTRY & CITY DISCOVER PHRASEBOOK Few parts of Europe would dare compare Gregorio Armeno. From frescoes to marble Need to their cultural riches to those of Naples and carvings, the region’s glut of artistic marvels its fabled surrounds. A former royal capital, will satiate the greediest cultural appetites. If You Like ...... 16 Naples has been home to countless cultural deities, from painter Michelangelo Merisi da Culinary Riches • The original • Best-of Caravaggio to sculptor Cosimo Fanzago and Know Naples and its region are the country’s culi- composer Alessandro Scarlatti. The region lays claim to ’s largest opera house and nary soul, home to Italy’s best pizza, pasta, Currencyroyal palace, many of Languagethe country’s À nest mozzarella, vegetables, citrus and seafood. Comprehensive It’s like one never-ending feast; wood-À red • • Photo-packed paintings, sculptures and frescoes, and not Month by Month ...... 18 » Euro (€) » Italian pizza and potent espresso in Naples, long, to mention a large share of Graeco-Roman ruins. Let your imagination run wild at the lazy lunches at agriturismi (farm temples at , on the chariot-grooved stays), alici fritte (fried sardines) on weath- Adventurous ered Tyrrhenian islands and lavish pastries • Inspirational streets of Pompeii, or in the frescoed mag- • niÀ cence of Villa . Compare the in chintzy pasticcerie (pastry shops). Gothic minimalism of Naples’ Complesso Even the simplest bite can be a revelation, Itineraries ...... 20 When to Go Your Daily Budget Budget less than Eat & Drink €100 Naples » Dorm bed: €15–25 GO Sep–Jul # » Double room in a budget hotel: €50–100 Salerno » Lunch and dinner of Like a Local...... 23 # FeGO Apr–Jun; GO Apr–Jun; Sep–Oct # Sep–Oct pizza and pasta: €15 # G » Excellent markets z # GO Apr–Jun; February March Naples’ pa Sep–Oct and delis for self- GO Apr–Jun; catering Outdoor Activities ...... 25 Short and accursed is The weather in March is sees the faSep–Oct Midrange ow Italians describe capricious: sunny, rainy the Duom ebruary. It might still be and windy all at once. The naro’s bloo Looking for other travel resources? €100– hilly, but almond trees official start of Spring is does, the c Warm to hot summers, 200 Travel with Children ...... 28 re starting to blossom 21 March, but things only from volca mild winters » Double room in a nd Carnevale season really start to open up for Repeat pe hotel: €80–180 rightens things up with the main season during place on 1 » Lunch and dinner 16 Decemb in local restaurants: onfetti, costumes and Easter week. €25–50 Regions at a Glance ...... 30 ugar-dusted treats. High Season Shoulder Low Season Top end over Settimana (Jul–Aug) M (Apr–Jun & Sep– (Nov–Mar) Carnevale » QueuesM and crowds Oct) » Prices up to 30% z Santa zat big sights, beaches » Good deals on lower than high €200 z In the period lead- Processions and passion As theand onwea the road, accommodation. season. » Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: especially August. » Spring is best for » Many sights, hotels ng up to Ash Wednesday, plays mark Easter Holy Naples pu €150–450 many southern Italian Week across the month-lon» Man y restaurants festivals, flowers and and restaurants owns stage pre-Lenten region. On Good Friday and art exhibit arnivals. Kids don fancy the Thursday preceding performan ostumes and throw cori- it, hooded penitents walk Naples. M ndoli (coloured confetti), through the streets of Sor- and histor laborate carri (floats) are rento. On Procida, Good ally off-lim araded down the street, Friday sees wooden statues are open a nd everyone indulges one and life-size tableaux carted

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE UNDERSTAND For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, NAPLES, POMPEII & Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 215 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine THE COAST can make sense of what you see

Naples, Pompeii & the elief systems if Naple % of population) 100 peo Amalfi Coast Today ...... 216 Lonely Planet in numbers

Anfiteatro torico (historic centre stands. Flavio (p ### ), History ...... 218 Despite the Cumaeans resilience, the Etrus 88 and in 421 BC the Greeks fell to the Samnite 70 12 100,000,000 190+ match for the Romans who took Nea olis in 5 273 BC, they added Paestum to their list; a G languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered The Arts...... 227 5th century BC. Roman Catholic Other Christians Togas, Triumph & Terror 98 would be Ita by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet Neopolitan Way of Life ... 231 Under the Romans, the Bay of Naples spark 2 would be othe mal spas and cashed-up out-of-towners. Far 2.5 4.5 on our Thorn Tree guide Muslim Other religions Saints & Superstitions ... 235 8th century travel forum BC 680 B Greeks establish a The Cuman Greeks The Campanian Table .... 239 colony at Cuma in tablish Parthenop the Campi Flegrei. the island of Meg The area becomes naming it in hono the most important a suicidal siren wh Architecture ...... 246 Greek settlement on song fails to sed the Italian mainland the cunning Ulys STAY IN TOUCH and a strategic part of The Subterranean City .. 251 . lonelyplanet.com/contact The Camorra...... 255 AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-917-0 facebook.com/ 99125 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 799170 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

naples-amalfi-coast-4-cover.indd 2 28/09/2012 11:48:01 AM PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 32 ROAD and insider tips

Naples p34 ^#

The Islands The Amalfi p106 Coast p140

Salerno & the Cilento p175

4Accommodation p194

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO PAGE 265 a seafront hotel or from Mergellina hydrofoil terminal, SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH€19 from Piazza TRIP Municipio and €15.50 from Stazione Centrale. 257 (%081 801 54 Curreri 20; www.curreriviaggi.it) runs TRANSPORT TRANSPORT seven services daily between GUIDE the airport and Sorrento. Journey time is 75 minutes and tickets (available on board) cost €10. Directory A-Z...... 258 Tickets REGION THE ENTERING The internet is the easiest way of locating and booking reasonably priced seats. Full-time students and those Transport...... 265 under 26 years may qualify for discounted fares at agen- cies such as STA Travel (www.statravel.com). Many Language...... 271 of these fares require a valid Transport International Student Iden- tity Card (ISIC). Index...... 282 GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Land A plethora of airlines link Italy Airports Reaching Campania overland Map Legend...... 287 to the rest of the world, and Capodichino airport (NAP; involves traversing three- numerous airlines fly directly %081 751 54 71; www.gesac. quarters of the entire length to Naples’ international air- it), 7km northeast of central of Italy, which can either be port, better known as Capod- Naples, is ’s an enormous drain on your ichino. Naples is southern main airport, linking Naples time or, if you have plenty Italy’s main transport hub, with most Italian and several to spare, a wonderful way of with excellent rail and bus major European cities, as seeing the country. Buses are connections to other parts of well as New York. usually the cheapest option, Campania and beyond. Na- The Alibus (%800 639525; but services are less frequent ples is also a main port, host- www.unicocampania.it) airport and considerably less com- ing international cruise ships shuttle (€3, 45 minutes, fortable than the train. and operating car and passen- every 20 to 30 minutes) con- ger ferries to ports throughout nects the airport to Piazza Bus the Mediterranean. Flights, Garibaldi (Stazione Centrale) Buses are the cheapest over- tours and rail tickets can be and Molo Beverello (main land option to Italy, but serv- booked online at lonelyplanet. ferry terminal). ices are less frequent, less com/bookings. Set taxi fares to the airport comfortable and significantly are as follows: €23 from slower than the train. Entering the THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHEDRegion BY EU and Swiss citizens can ONLINE TICKETS travel to Italy with their na- tional identity card alone. All For reasonably priced airfares, check the following on- other nationalities must have line booking websites: a valid passport and may be » Cheap Flights (www.cheapflights.com) Cristian Bonettorequired to fill out a landing » Ebookers.com (www.ebookers.com) card (at airports). By law you should have » Expedia (www.expedia.com) your passport or ID card with » Kayak (www.kayak.com) you at all times. You’ll need » Last minute (www.lastminute.com) one of these documents for Josephine Quinteropolice registration every time » Orbitz (www.orbitz.com) you check into a hotel. » Priceline (www.priceline.com) Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

NAPLES...... 34 ACCOMMODATION 194 BAY OF NAPLES...... 90 NAPLES...... 195 Centro Storico THE ISLANDS...... 106 & ...... 195 Capri...... 110 Toledo & Quartieri Spagnoli...... 197 Ischia...... 122 Santa Lucia Procida...... 134 & ...... 198 , Capodimonte THE AMALFI & La Sanità...... 198 COAST...... 140 Mergellina & . . . 199 SORRENTO ...... 144 THE ISLANDS...... 200 West of Sorrento ...... 152 Capri...... 200 East of Sorrento...... 154 Ischia...... 202 TOWNS. . 156 Procida...... 203 Positano...... 156 THE AMALFI COAST. . . . . 203 ...... 162 Sorrento...... 203 Amalfi...... 164 ...... 205 ...... 168 Sant’Agata sui due Golfi. . 205 Minori...... 172 Marina del Cantone. . . . . 206 Cetara...... 173 Positano...... 206 ...... 173 Positano to Amalfi...... 207 Amalfi...... 208 SALERNO & THE Ravello...... 209 CILENTO ...... 175 SALERNO & THE Salerno...... 178 CILENTO ...... 210 Paestum...... 182 Salerno...... 210 Parco Nazionale Paestum...... 210 del Cilento e ...... 182 & the Cilento Coast ...... 211 Agropoli ...... 188 Parco Nazionale del Cilento Coast ...... 190 Cilento...... 212 ...... 192 #\

› Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast Grazzanise #\ #\ #\ Caserta Cancello #\ ^# Montesárchio Santa Maria #\ Capua Vetere Naples Maddaloni Superlative food, art \# #\ Marcianise #\ & architecture (p34) #\ Villa Santa Literno Maria a Vicolo Villaggio #\ Sant'Arpino Gaudello #\ Avella #\ #\ Coppola Giugliano #\ Acerra Caivano #\ in Campania Marigliano #\ Pomigliano #\ Qualiano #\ \# Nola Gaudi Casavatore d'Arco #\ #\ #\ Marano di #\ Somma San Gennaro Gulf of Gaeta Lido di Naples Airport #\ Napoli Vesuviana Vesuviano (Golfo di Gaeta) Licola #–(Capodichino) #\ #\ Lago Naples ^# #\ d'Averno Portici Mt Vesuvius Quindici #\ (Vesuvio; 1281m) Lucrino #\ #] R Pozzuoli #\ Monte di #\ #\ Terzigno #\ Procida \# #\ Bacoli Ischia #\ Procida #\ #\ Nocera Ischia Procida \# #\ Pompeii Mt EpomeoR (786m) Bay of Naples Castellammare (Golfo di Napoli) #] Mt dell' di Stabia Avvocata Mt Sant' (1014m) R Angelo a #\ Tre Pizzi Ravello (1443m) #\ Positano R #\ Sorrento #\ #\ #] Amalfi Mt San #\Sant'Agata CostanzoR #\ (497m) Marina del Capri Cantone R #\Capri Town Mt Solaro (589m) Procida (Golfo di Salerno) A soothing, citrus-scented island (p134)

Positano One of Italy's Capri Mediterranean jewels (p156) Be dazzled by the fabled Grotta Azzurra (p118)

ELEVATION

1500m 1200m 900m 600m 300m 0

e# 0 40 km 0 20 miles Top Experiences ›

Melfi Mt Vesuvius #\ Climb a slumbering menace (p102) #\ Monticchio

Avellino ^# Pompeii Step back in time in ghostly Pompeii (p93)

Montella#\ #\ Ravello Heavenly views and a summer arts festival (p168)

#\

\# Montecorvino Cava #\ ^# Salern333333333o #\ \# Sicignano 333333333degli e l e #\ Alburni S #\ Petina Altavilla #\ #\ Silentina #\ #\ 333333333#\ Polla Paestum #\ Sant'Angelo a Fasanella #\ Capaccio 333333333#\ #\ Sala Consilina \# #\ Ogliastro Parco Nazionale del Cilento 333333333#\ Agropoli #\ e Vallo di Diano (Cilento National Park & the #\ Cilento Valley of Diano) Santa Maria di #÷ #\ Laureana 333333333Castellabate #\ San Marco di #\ #\ Sanza#\ 333333333Marina di Casal #\ Velino #\ #\ \# 333333333\#

Pisciotta #\ 333333333\# \# San Giovanni a Piro Palinuro \# #\ Marina di 333333333#\ Camerota 333333333 AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Cristian Bonetto Coordinating Author, Naples As an ex-writer of farce and TV soap, it’s not surprising that Cristian clicks with Campania. The Italo-Australian scribe has been hooked on the region for years, returning regularly to compromise his waistline and take his favourite ride in the world – the chairlift from Anacapri to Monte Solaro. According to Cristian, few cities are as richly layered as Naples, and his musings on the city’s complexities have appeared in print (and on screen) from London to Sydney. His Naples-based play Il Cortile (The Courtyard) toured a number of Italian cities in 2003 with the support of the prestigious Australia Council. To date, Cristian has contributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet guides, including Italy, New York City, Denmark and Singapore. Read more about Cristian at: lonelyplanet.com/members/cristianbonetto

Josephine Quintero The Islands, the Amalfi Coast, Salerno & the Cilento Originally from England and a UC Berkeley graduate, Josephine’s first encounters with Italy were visiting her daughter who lived and worked there for several years. The country contin- ues to impress and inspire and she has contributed to several Italy guidebooks, including two editions of Naples & the Amalfi Coast. Josephine considers this a job made in heaven, such is the beauty, culture and, of course, the cuisine in this deservedly famous region. Highlights during this trip included discovering a Roman villa concealed under an Amalfi ceramics shop and managing to perfect herlimoncello (lemon liquer) recipe – with plenty of tasting opportunities along the way. Read more about Josephine at: lonelyplanet.com/members/josephinequintero

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 4th edition – Jan 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 917 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 20

Itiner- Whatever your time frame, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. aries Want more inspiration? Head online to www.lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Caserta •# É

CAMPANIA

É Gulf of Gaeta (Golfo di Gaeta)

Cuma •# Campi Flegrei •#

É Naples

É Pozzuoli Lucrino•# •# É •#

Baia É É Bay of Naples •# (Golfo di Napoli) Procida É Ischia •#

TY RR HENI AN SE A

Twelve Days Palazzi, Ruins & Islands

Start with four action-packed days in Naples, taste-testing its famous pizza and es- presso and swooning over its frescoed churches and palazzi (large buildings). On one of these days, consider a day trip to Caserta, home to a Unesco-lauded palace that upstages Versailles. From Naples, head west for two days in the Campi Flegrei, home to some of Italy’s finest Graeco-Roman sights. In Pozzuoli, check out Italy’s third-largest Roman amphitheatre, ancient market ruins, and the geological freakshow better known as the Crater. Bathe like the Romans in Lucrino, see where Roman emperors soaked in Baia, and snoop around ancient Greek ruins in Cuma. On day seven, slow down the pace by catching a ferry across to Procida, where you can lose yourself in its stuck-in-time fish- ing villages, sleepy backstreets and secret beaches. Day nine sees you catching a ferry across to Ischia, the largest island in the Bay of Naples. Give yourself three days to explore its archaeology, botanical gardens, castle and wineries, and treat yourself at one of its thermal spas. Refreshed and restored, it’s an easy ferry ride back to Naples on day 12. 21

Naples •#

É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN CAMPANIA

•# Pompeii Bay of Naples (Golfo di Napoli) É

Vietri Salerno •#

sul Mare ARIES ITINER Ravello •# •# É •# Cetara Positano

É •# •# É É •# Amalfi Sorrento É Gulf of Salerno (Golfo di Salerno)

Capri •# TY RR HENI AN SE A

Two Weeks A Coastal Affair

Start your sojourn with three days in Naples, indulging in its artistic, architectural and culinary riches. Make time for at least two of the city’s impressive museums, explore its markets and catacombs, swoon over the Christo velato (Veiled Christ) sculpture in the Cappella Sansevero, and catch an aria at the majestic Teatro San Carlo. Spend day four turning back time at Pompeii, before evening cocktails in laid-back Sorrento. Spend the next day ambling Sorrento’s streets, getting a crash course in crafts- manship at the Museo Correale and Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea, and finding peace in the cloisters of the Chiesa di San Francesco. Crank up the magic on day six by sailing across to Capri, giving yourself three days to fall madly in love with this fabled island. Glide into the dazzling Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), ride up to Monte Solaro, and lose the hordes on side streets and bucolic walking trails. On day nine, sail back to Sorrento and hit the hairpin turns and heavenly vistas of the Amalfi Coast. First stop: Positano. Check in for three nights, slipping on your Prada sandals and getting lost in its labyrinth of chic laneways. Sup on fresh seafood, hire your own boat, or tie up your hiking boots and get a natural high on the Sentiero degli Dei (Walk of the Gods). Spend day 12 in deeply historic Amalfi, exploring its sublime cathedral and cloisters before continuing to lofty Ravello, a long-time favourite haunt for composers, writers and Hollywood stars. Stay the night to soak up the town’s understated elegance, and spend the following day swooning over its villas and uber-romantic gardens. If you can pull yourself away, continue east to upbeat Salerno, your final stop. On the way, drop into Cetara to sample its famous tuna and anchovies and into Vietri sul Mare to shop for local ceram- ics. Spend a full day in Salerno, diving into its medieval core to savour the city’s fabulous seafood, pastries and street life. Come evening, join the locals for a spot of bar-hopping bonhomie – the perfetto end to your coastal affair. 22

Salerno •#

É Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano (Cilento National Park & the Valley of Diano) #÷ BASILICATA

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É

Paestum •#

É Gulf of Salerno É (Golfo di Salerno) •# Agropoli•# CAMPANIA Santa Maria

TNRARIES ITINER di Castellabate •# •# Castellabate É

Velia•# É

TYRRHENIAN SEA •# Palinuro CALABRIA

Nine Days The Cilento Trail

Start your adventure in the underrated city of Salerno. Its cathedral is widely laud- ed as Italy’s most beautiful medieval church, and its engrossing multimedia Scuola Medica Salernitana Museo Virtuale tells the story of the city’s medieval medical school, once one of Europe’s most important. Head up to the Castello di Arechi for sweeping views, and to the revamped waterfront for a late-afternoon passeggiata (stroll). After dark, join the locals in the city’s vibrant medieval heart for a little bar-hopping and movida (partying). On day two, bid Salerno arrivederci and head inland for three days in the rugged beauty of the Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano, Italy’s second largest national park and a Unesco World Heritage site. Base yourself at one of the park’s agriturismi (farm stays) and explore the area’s famous grottoes, namely the Grotta di Cas- telcivita and Grotta dell’Angelo. Make sure to spend a few hours in the medieval town of Postiglione – home to an 11th-century Norman castle – and a morning or afternoon in Pad- ula, famous for its mammoth Carthusian monastery, the Certosa di San Lorenzo. Not far from the Certosa is the fabled Valle delle Orchidee (Valley of the Orchids), whose 70-plus va- rieties of springtime orchids create a spectacular blaze of colour. One of the national park’s more curious sites is Vecchia, a veritable ghost town abandoned early last century. On day five, head back towards the coast to gasp at the mighty Greek temples of Paes- tum, the oldest of which dates back to the 6th century BC. Spend the evening and the following morning in Agropoli, wandering its atmospheric centro storico (historic centre) before heading south to Santa Maria di Castellabate for superlative seafood noshing. On day seven, head up to the beautiful medieval town of Castellabate and lose yourself in its shamelessly charming laneways, then spend the afternoon exploring the ancient ruins of Velia. End your Cilento adventure with a couple of lazy beach days in Palinuro, which, like Capri, lays claim to a dazzling Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto). ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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