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Naples Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Naples, welcome to Pompeii & the Naples, Pompeii & the AmalÀ Amalfi Coast.................. 2 Coast Map .................................. 4 10 Top Experiences ........ 6 Need to Know ................. 12 First Time ........................ 14 History & Art Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore to the outrageous rococo of its Chiesa di San COUNTRY & CITY DISCOVER PHRASEBOOK Few parts of Europe would dare compare Gregorio Armeno. From frescoes to marble Need to their cultural riches to those of Naples and carvings, the region’s glut of artistic marvels its fabled surrounds. A former royal capital, will satiate the greediest cultural appetites. If You Like ........................ 16 Naples has been home to countless cultural deities, from painter Michelangelo Merisi da Culinary Riches • The original • Best-of Caravaggio to sculptor Cosimo Fanzago and Know Naples and its region are the country’s culi- composer Alessandro Scarlatti. The region lays claim to Italy’s largest opera house and nary soul, home to Italy’s best pizza, pasta, Currencyroyal palace, many of Languagethe country’s À nest mozzarella, vegetables, citrus and seafood. Comprehensive It’s like one never-ending feast; wood-À red • • Photo-packed paintings, sculptures and frescoes, and not Month by Month ............. 18 » Euro (€) » Italian pizza and potent espresso in Naples, long, to mention a large share of Graeco-Roman ruins. Let your imagination run wild at the lazy lunches at Cilento agriturismi (farm temples at Paestum, on the chariot-grooved stays), alici fritte (fried sardines) on weath- Adventurous ered Tyrrhenian islands and lavish pastries • Inspirational streets of Pompeii, or in the frescoed mag- • niÀ cence of Villa Oplontis. Compare the in chintzy Salerno pasticcerie (pastry shops). Gothic minimalism of Naples’ Complesso Even the simplest bite can be a revelation, Itineraries ........................ 20 When to Go Your Daily Budget Budget less than Eat & Drink €100 Naples » Dorm bed: €15–25 GO Sep–Jul # » Double room in a budget hotel: €50–100 Sorrento Salerno » Lunch and dinner of Like a Local..................... 23 # FeGO Apr–Jun; GO Apr–Jun; Sep–Oct # Sep–Oct pizza and pasta: €15 # G Positano » Excellent markets z # GO Apr–Jun; February March Naples’ pa Capri Sep–Oct and delis for self- GO Apr–Jun; catering Outdoor Activities .......... 25 Short and accursed is The weather in March is sees the faSep–Oct Midrange ow Italians describe capricious: sunny, rainy the Duom ebruary. It might still be and windy all at once. The naro’s bloo Looking for other travel resources? €100– hilly, but almond trees official start of Spring is does, the c Warm to hot summers, 200 Travel with Children ....... 28 re starting to blossom 21 March, but things only from volca mild winters » Double room in a nd Carnevale season really start to open up for Repeat pe hotel: €80–180 rightens things up with the main season during place on 1 » Lunch and dinner 16 Decemb in local restaurants: onfetti, costumes and Easter week. €25–50 Regions at a Glance ....... 30 ugar-dusted treats. High Season Shoulder Low Season Top end over Settimana (Jul–Aug) M (Apr–Jun & Sep– (Nov–Mar) Carnevale » QueuesM and crowds Oct) » Prices up to 30% z Santa zat big sights, beaches » Good deals on lower than high €200 z In the period lead- Processions and passion As theand onwea the road, accommodation. season. » Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: especially August. » Spring is best for » Many sights, hotels ng up to Ash Wednesday, plays mark Easter Holy Naples pu €150–450 many southern Italian Week across the Campania month-lon» Many restaurants festivals, flowers and and restaurants owns stage pre-Lenten region. On Good Friday and art exhibit arnivals. Kids don fancy the Thursday preceding performan ostumes and throw cori- it, hooded penitents walk Naples. M ndoli (coloured confetti), through the streets of Sor- and histor laborate carri (floats) are rento. On Procida, Good ally off-lim araded down the street, Friday sees wooden statues are open a nd everyone indulges one and life-size tableaux carted LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE UNDERSTAND For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, NAPLES, POMPEII & Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 215 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine THE AMALFI COAST can make sense of what you see Naples, Pompeii & the elief systems if Naple % of population) 100 peo Amalfi Coast Today ...... 216 Lonely Planet in numbers Anfiteatro torico (historic centre stands. Flavio (p ### ), History ............................. 218 Despite the Cumaeans resilience, the Etrus 88 Pozzuoli and in 421 BC the Greeks fell to the Samnite 70 12 100,000,000 190+ match for the Romans who took Nea olis in 5 273 BC, they added Paestum to their list; a G languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered The Arts........................... 227 5th century BC. Roman Catholic Other Christians Togas, Triumph & Terror 98 would be Ita by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet Neopolitan Way of Life ... 231 Under the Romans, the Bay of Naples spark 2 would be othe mal spas and cashed-up out-of-towners. Far 2.5 4.5 on our Thorn Tree guide Muslim Other religions Saints & Superstitions ... 235 8th century travel forum BC 680 B Greeks establish a The Cuman Greeks The Campanian Table .... 239 colony at Cuma in tablish Parthenop the Campi Flegrei. the island of Meg The area becomes naming it in hono the most important a suicidal siren wh Architecture .................... 246 Greek settlement on song fails to sed the Italian mainland the cunning Ulys STAY IN TOUCH and a strategic part of The Subterranean City .. 251 Magna Graecia. lonelyplanet.com/contact The Camorra................... 255 AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-917-0 facebook.com/ 99125 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 799170 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter naples-amalfi-coast-4-cover.indd 2 28/09/2012 11:48:01 AM PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 32 ROAD and insider tips Naples p34 ^# The Islands The Amalfi p106 Coast p140 Salerno & the Cilento p175 4Accommodation p194 VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO PAGE 265 a seafront hotel or from Mergellina hydrofoil terminal, SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH€19 from Piazza TRIP Municipio and €15.50 from Stazione Centrale. 257 (%081 801 54 Curreri 20; www.curreriviaggi.it) runs TRANSPORT seven services daily between GUIDE the airport and Sorrento. Journey time is 75 minutes and tickets (available on board) cost €10. Directory A-Z .................. 258 Tickets ENTERING THE REGION The internet is the easiest way of locating and booking reasonably priced seats. Full-time students and those Transport ........................ 265 under 26 years may qualify for discounted fares at agen- cies such as STA Travel (www.statravel.com). Many Language ........................ 271 of these fares require a valid Transport International Student Iden- tity Card (ISIC). Index ................................ 282 GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Land A plethora of airlines link Italy Airports Reaching Campania overland Map Legend .................... 287 to the rest of the world, and Capodichino airport (NAP; involves traversing three- numerous airlines fly directly %081 751 54 71; www.gesac. quarters of the entire length to Naples’ international air- it), 7km northeast of central of Italy, which can either be port, better known as Capod- Naples, is southern Italy’s an enormous drain on your ichino. Naples is southern main airport, linking Naples time or, if you have plenty Italy’s main transport hub, with most Italian and several to spare, a wonderful way of with excellent rail and bus major European cities, as seeing the country. Buses are connections to other parts of well as New York. usually the cheapest option, Campania and beyond. Na- The Alibus (%800 639525; but services are less frequent ples is also a main port, host- www.unicocampania.it) airport and considerably less com- ing international cruise ships shuttle (€3, 45 minutes, fortable than the train. and operating car and passen- every 20 to 30 minutes) con- ger ferries to ports throughout nects the airport to Piazza Bus the Mediterranean. Flights, Garibaldi (Stazione Centrale) Buses are the cheapest over- tours and rail tickets can be and Molo Beverello (main land option to Italy, but serv- booked online at lonelyplanet. ferry terminal). ices are less frequent, less com/bookings. Set taxi fares to the airport comfortable and significantly are as follows: €23 from slower than the train. Entering the THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHEDRegion BY EU and Swiss citizens can ONLINE TICKETS travel to Italy with their na- tional identity card alone. All For reasonably priced airfares, check the following on- other nationalities must have line booking websites: a valid passport and may be » Cheap Flights (www.cheapflights.com) Cristian Bonettorequired to fill out a landing » Ebookers.com (www.ebookers.com) card (at airports). By law you should have » Expedia (www.expedia.com) your passport or ID card with » Kayak (www.kayak.com) you at all times.
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