CONTENTS

LIST OF MAPS vi

1 THE BEST OF & THE 1

1 The Best Travel Experiences ...... 1 6 The Best Swimming 2 The Best ...... 4 & Sunbathing Spots...... 8 3 The Best Churches & Cathedrals. . . .5 7 The Best Spas ...... 8 4 The Best Castles & Palaces...... 6 8 The Best Vistas ...... 9 5 The Best Museums...... 7 9 The Best Restaurants ...... 10 10 The Best Luxury Stays ...... 11

2 CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST IN DEPTH 12

1 A Look at the Past...... 12 Listen Up: Restaurant Lingo...... 26 2 Art & Architecture in Campania . . .17 Campanian Nightlife...... 31 3 A Taste of Campania ...... 24 4 Recommended Books...... 32

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST 34

1 When to Go...... 34 6 Safety ...... 55 Campania Calendar of Events ...... 36 7 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 56 2 Entry Requirements ...... 42 8 Sustainable Tourism...... 61 3 Getting There & Getting Around . . .44 9 Special-Interest Trips & The Unico Travel Pass ...... 48 Escorted Tours ...... 62 4 MoneyCOPYRIGHTED & Costs...... 52 10 Staying MATERIAL Connected...... 65 5 Health ...... 53 11 Tips on Accommodations ...... 67 What Things Cost in ...... 53

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1 Campania & the Amalfi Coast 3 Campania & the Amalfi Coast in 1 Week ...... 70 for Families ...... 74 2 Campania & the Amalfi Coast 4 Natural Wonders ...... 76 in 2 Weeks ...... 72

5 NAPLES 78

1 Essentials ...... 78 4 Exploring Naples ...... 107 The Neighborhoods in Brief...... 80 Campania Artecard...... 110 Fast Facts: Naples ...... 85 5 SpaccaNapoli: A Walking Tour 2 Where to Stay...... 87 in the Very Heart of Naples...... 124 3 Where to Dine ...... 96 6 Shopping for Local Crafts ...... 127 The Best Neapolitan Pizza in the The Presepio...... 128

AMALFI COAST WITH NAPLES, CAPRI & & CAPRI NAPLES, WITH COAST AMALFI Historic District ...... 103 7 Naples After Dark ...... 129

6 POMPEII, , VESUVIUS & THE CAMPI FLEGREI 131

1 Herculaneum ...... 132 5 Vesuvius ...... 146 2 Pompeii ...... 138 Treading Lightly on Mount CONTENTS 3 ...... 144 Vesuvius...... 147 4 ...... 145 6 The Phlegrean Fields ...... 148

7 THE LAND OF SIRENS: SORRENTO & ITS PENINSULA 158

1 Castellammare di Stabia...... 158 4 Beyond Sorrento: Massa Lubrense & 2 Vico Equense ...... 164 Sant’Agata sui due Golfi...... 179 3 Sorrento ...... 168

8 THE AMALFI COAST 187

1 Positano ...... 187 4 Ravello...... 212 2 Praiano & Vettica Maggiore...... 198 Limoncello & Other Rosoli ...... 220 3 Amalfi...... 202 5 Off the Beaten Path ...... 222 Christmas on the Amalfi Coast . . . 211

002_497340-ftoc.indd2_497340-ftoc.indd iviv 33/1/10/1/10 66:20:20 PPMM v 9 THE JEWELS OF THE : THE ISLANDS OF CAPRI, ISCHIA & PROCIDA 234 AMALFI COAST WITH NAPLES, CAPRI & POMPEII 1 Ischia: Isola Verde & Island 3 Capri, the & the of Eternal Youth...... 234 Blue Grotto ...... 248 2 Romantic & Unspoiled Procida . . . 246

10 SALERNO, , PADULA & THE 260

1 Salerno ...... 260 4 The National Park of the 2 The Ruins of Paestum ...... 268 Cilento...... 276 3 Padula & Certosa di San Lorenzo ...... 275

11 CAMPANIA’S WELLKEPT SECRETS: CASERTA, & AVELLINO 284

1 Caserta ...... 284 3 Bewitching Benevento ...... 299 The Radical Philosophy of The Witches of Benevento ...... 304 Gaetano Filangeri...... 290 4 Avellino & the Hill Towns 2 Santa Maria Vetere & of Irpinia ...... 310 CONTENTS Capua ...... 292 Pulcinella...... 313

12 FAST FACTS & WEBSITES 318

1 Fast Facts: Campania & 2 Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental the Amalfi Coast ...... 318 Websites ...... 324

13 MOLTO ITALIANO 327

1 Basic Vocabulary ...... 327 Do’s and Don’ts ...... 331 A Little Tip ...... 329 3 Campanian Menu Terms ...... 331 2 A Glossary of Italian Architectural Terms ...... 329

INDEX 334

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Regions of ...... 9 Castellammare di Stabia ...... 161 Campania & the Amalfi Coast . . . . . 35 Sorrento ...... 171 Campania & the Amalfi Coast Positano ...... 189 in 1 & 2 Weeks ...... 71 Amalfi ...... 203 Campania & the Amalfi Coast Ravello ...... 213 for Families ...... 75 Isle of Ischia ...... 235 Natural Wonders ...... 77 Ischia Town ...... 239 Naples by Rail ...... 83 Isle of Capri ...... 249 Where to Stay in Naples ...... 88 Capri Town ...... 253 Where to Dine in Naples ...... 98 Salerno ...... 261 What to See & Do in Naples ...... 108 Paestum ...... 269 Walking Tour of Naples ...... 125 The Cilento ...... 277 The Vesuvian Area ...... 133 Caserta ...... 285 Herculaneum ...... 135 ...... 293 Pompeii ...... 139 Capua ...... 297 Phlegrean Fields ...... 149 Benevento ...... 301 ...... 151 Avellino ...... 311 The Amalfi Coast & ...... 159

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