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Copyrighted Material CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vi 1 THE BEST OF CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST 1 1 The Best Travel Experiences . .1 6 The Best Swimming 2 The Best Ruins . .4 & Sunbathing Spots. .8 3 The Best Churches & Cathedrals. .5 7 The Best Spas . .8 4 The Best Castles & Palaces. .6 8 The Best Vistas . .9 5 The Best Museums. .7 9 The Best Restaurants . .10 10 The Best Luxury Stays . .11 2 CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST IN DEPTH 12 1 A Look at the Past. .12 Listen Up: Restaurant Lingo. .26 2 Art & Architecture in Campania . .17 Campanian Nightlife. .31 3 A Taste of Campania . .24 4 Recommended Books. .32 3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST 34 1 When to Go. .34 6 Safety . .55 Campania Calendar of Events . .36 7 Specialized Travel Resources . .56 2 Entry Requirements . .42 8 Sustainable Tourism. .61 3 Getting There & Getting Around . .44 9 Special-Interest Trips & The Unico Travel Pass . .48 Escorted Tours . .62 4 MoneyCOPYRIGHTED & Costs. .52 10 Staying MATERIAL Connected. .65 5 Health . .53 11 Tips on Accommodations . .67 What Things Cost in Naples . .53 002_497340-ftoc.indd2_497340-ftoc.indd iiiiii 33/1/10/1/10 66:20:20 PPMM iv 4 SUGGESTED CAMPANIA & THE AMALFI COAST ITINERARIES 70 1 Campania & the Amalfi Coast 3 Campania & the Amalfi Coast in 1 Week . .70 for Families . .74 2 Campania & the Amalfi Coast 4 Natural Wonders . .76 in 2 Weeks . .72 5 NAPLES 78 1 Essentials . .78 4 Exploring Naples . 107 The Neighborhoods in Brief. .80 Campania Artecard. 110 Fast Facts: Naples . .85 5 SpaccaNapoli: A Walking Tour 2 Where to Stay. .87 in the Very Heart of Naples. 124 3 Where to Dine . .96 6 Shopping for Local Crafts . 127 The Best Neapolitan Pizza in the The Presepio. 128 AMALFI COAST WITH NAPLES, CAPRI & POMPEII & CAPRI NAPLES, WITH COAST AMALFI Historic District . 103 7 Naples After Dark . 129 6 POMPEII, HERCULANEUM, VESUVIUS & THE CAMPI FLEGREI 131 1 Herculaneum . 132 5 Vesuvius . 146 2 Pompeii . 138 Treading Lightly on Mount CONTENTS 3 Oplontis . 144 Vesuvius. 147 4 Boscoreale . 145 6 The Phlegrean Fields . 148 7 THE LAND OF SIRENS: SORRENTO & ITS PENINSULA 158 1 Castellammare di Stabia. 158 4 Beyond Sorrento: Massa Lubrense & 2 Vico Equense . 164 Sant’Agata sui due Golfi. 179 3 Sorrento . 168 8 THE AMALFI COAST 187 1 Positano . 187 4 Ravello. 212 2 Praiano & Vettica Maggiore. 198 Limoncello & Other Rosoli . 220 3 Amalfi. 202 5 Off the Beaten Path . 222 Christmas on the Amalfi Coast . 211 002_497340-ftoc.indd2_497340-ftoc.indd iviv 33/1/10/1/10 66:20:20 PPMM v 9 THE JEWELS OF THE GULF OF NAPLES: THE ISLANDS OF CAPRI, ISCHIA & PROCIDA 234 AMALFI COAST WITH NAPLES, CAPRI & POMPEII & CAPRI NAPLES, WITH COAST AMALFI 1 Ischia: Isola Verde & Island 3 Capri, the Faraglioni & the of Eternal Youth. 234 Blue Grotto . 248 2 Romantic & Unspoiled Procida . 246 10 SALERNO, PAESTUM, PADULA & THE CILENTO 260 1 Salerno . 260 4 The National Park of the 2 The Ruins of Paestum . 268 Cilento. 276 3 Padula & Certosa di San Lorenzo . 275 11 CAMPANIA’S WELLKEPT SECRETS: CASERTA, BENEVENTO & AVELLINO 284 1 Caserta . 284 3 Bewitching Benevento . 299 The Radical Philosophy of The Witches of Benevento . 304 Gaetano Filangeri. 290 4 Avellino & the Hill Towns 2 Santa Maria Capua Vetere & of Irpinia . 310 CONTENTS Capua . 292 Pulcinella. 313 12 FAST FACTS & WEBSITES 318 1 Fast Facts: Campania & 2 Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental the Amalfi Coast . 318 Websites . 324 13 MOLTO ITALIANO 327 1 Basic Vocabulary . 327 Do’s and Don’ts . 331 A Little Tip . 329 3 Campanian Menu Terms . 331 2 A Glossary of Italian Architectural Terms . 329 INDEX 334 002_497340-ftoc.indd2_497340-ftoc.indd v 33/1/10/1/10 66:20:20 PPMM LIST OF MAPS Regions of Italy . 9 Castellammare di Stabia . .161 Campania & the Amalfi Coast . 35 Sorrento . .171 Campania & the Amalfi Coast Positano . .189 in 1 & 2 Weeks . 71 Amalfi . .203 Campania & the Amalfi Coast Ravello . .213 for Families . 75 Isle of Ischia . .235 Natural Wonders . 77 Ischia Town . .239 Naples by Rail . 83 Isle of Capri . .249 Where to Stay in Naples . 88 Capri Town . .253 Where to Dine in Naples . 98 Salerno . .261 What to See & Do in Naples . .108 Paestum . .269 Walking Tour of Naples . .125 The Cilento . .277 The Vesuvian Area . .133 Caserta . .285 Herculaneum . .135 Santa Maria Capua Vetere . .293 Pompeii . .139 Capua . .297 Phlegrean Fields . .149 Benevento . .301 Pozzuoli . .151 Avellino . .311 The Amalfi Coast & Sorrento Peninsula . .159 002_497340-ftoc.indd2_497340-ftoc.indd vivi 33/1/10/1/10 66:20:20 PPMM.
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