Quick viewing(Text Mode)

Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast 6

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Naples, & the Coast

Naples, Pompeii & Around p40 ^#

The Islands The Amalfi p110 Coast p146

Salerno & the p182

Cristian Bonetto, Brendan Sainsbury PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Naples, NAPLES, POMPEII Eating...... 156 Pompeii & the Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 157 ...... 4 & AROUND...... 40 Naples ...... 48 Shopping...... 158 Highlights Map...... 6 Sights ...... 48 Peninsula . . . 162 Top 10 Experiences . . . . . 8 Actvities...... 75 ...... 162 Need to Know...... 14 Tours...... 76 Sant’Agata sui due Golfi. . 163 First Time ...... 16 Festivals & Events . . . . . 76 Marina del Cantone. . . . 164 If You Like...... 18 Eating...... 77 Amalfi Coast Towns. . . 165 ...... 165 Month by Month. . . . . 20 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 83 Entertainment ...... 88 ...... 170 Itineraries ...... 22 Shopping...... 89 ...... 172 Eat & Drink Like a Local . 28 Campi Flegrei...... 93 Amalfi...... 172 Activities...... 31 & Around...... 95 ...... 176 Travel with Children. . . . 35 Lucrino, Baia & . . . . 96 Minori...... 179 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 37 Bay of Naples...... 98 Cetara...... 180 (). . .. 99 ...... 181 Mt Vesuvius...... 102

MARK READ/LONELY PLANET © Pompeii...... 103 & THE CILENTO ...... 182 THE ISLANDS. . . . . 110 Salerno...... 186 ...... 112 Cilento Coast ...... 189 Capri Town...... 112 ...... 190 & Around . . . . 120 ...... 192 Marina Grande...... 124 & Around. . . 193 ...... 126 to . . . . 194 Ischia Porto & Around. . . . . 195 & Ischia Ponte ...... 127 Parco Nazionale GELATERIA DAVID P156 ...... 133 del Cilento, e ...... 196 & the West Coast ...... 134

MASSIMOLAMA/500PX © Sant’Angelo ACCOMMODATION. . . 200 & the South Coast . . . . 137 Naples ...... 201 ...... 141 Centro Storico ...... 201 & Quartieri THE AMALFI Spagnoli...... 202 COAST...... 146 La Sanità & Capodimonte ...... 204 Sorrento...... 152 Santa Lucia & . . . . 205 Sights...... 152 The Islands...... 205 Activities...... 155 Capri...... 205 Courses...... 156 Ischia...... 207 CIMITERO DELLE Festivals & Events . . . . . 156 FONTANELLE P73 Procida...... 209 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Naples, Pompeii & the

FRANCESCASCIARRA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Amalfi Coast Today . . . 220 History...... 222 The Arts...... 231 The Neapolitan Way of Life...... 235 Saints & Superstitions ...... 238 The Campanian Table. . . . 241 Architecture ...... 249 SETTIMANA SANTA P156 The Subterranean City...... 254 The Amalfi Coast. . . . . 209 Salerno & The ...... 257 Sorrento...... 209 the Cilento...... 216 Massa Lubrense...... 211 Salerno...... 216 Sant’Agata Paestum...... 216 SURVIVAL sui due Golfi...... 211 Parco Nazionale del GUIDE Marina del Cantone. . . . 212 Cilento, Vallo di Diano e Alburni ...... 217 Positano...... 212 Directory A–Z...... 260 Agropoli...... 218 Praiano...... 213 Castellabate Transport...... 267 Furore...... 213 & Around...... 218 Language...... 273 Amalfi...... 214 Acciaroli to Ravello & Around. . . . . 215 Pisciotta...... 218 Index...... 281 Cetara...... 216 Palinuro & Around. . . . . 218 Map Legend...... 287

SPECIAL FEATURES Historical Riches. . . . . 58 The ...... 60 Pompeii 3D Illustration ...... 106 Saints & Superstitions ...... 238

The Campanian Table. . . . 241 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22

Itineraries

Naples •#

É É

Pompeii

É •#

Bay of Naples (Golfo di Napoli)

•# Ravello Positano Sorrento •# •# •# É É É Amalfi T Y R R H E N I A N S E A

•# Capri (Golfo di Salerno)

1 WEEK Blockbuster Highlights

Campania’s coastline is one of the world’s most beautiful, inspiring countless artists, romantics and bon vivants. This itinerary takes in its most seductive highlights. Start with two days in Naples, spending one day exploring its World Heritage–listed historic centre and another in nearby Pompeii. On day three, catch a morning ferry to Capri, giving yourself two days to fall madly in love with this fabled island. Glide into the dazzling Grotta Azzurra (), ride up to , and lose the hordes on bucolic walking trails. On day five, catch a ferry to Sorrento, from where buses and seasonal ferries continue to Positano. Base yourself here for your last nights, slipping on your Prada sandals and sauntering through its chic, labyrinthine laneways. Sup on fresh seafood, hire your own boat, or tie up your hiking boots and get a natural high on the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods). From Positano, Amalfi is an easy day trip, the deeply historic town famed for its eclectic, centuries-old cathedral and cloisters. From Amalfi, buses lead up to sky-high Ravello, whose world-famous panoramic gardens make for a breathtaking epilogue. 23

•#

Gulf of (Golfo di Gaeta)

É

CAMPANIA TRIP YOUR PLAN É

Cuma •# Campi Flegrei •# Naples

Pozzuoli É É Lucrino •# •# É É •#

Baia •# Ercolano

É É •# Procida It

Ischia •# Bay of Naples i nerar (Golfo di Napoli)

É i es

T Y R R H E N I A N S E A Capri •#

14 DAYS Palaces, & Islands

The greater Naples area is home to some of ’s oldest and most impressive human achievements, not to mention some of its most outstanding natural scenery. Follow this route for an intoxicating mix of , artistry and soul-stirring beauty. Base yourself in action-packed Naples for five days, savouring its World Heritage– status pizza and visceral street life. Make time for top-tier antiquities at the Ar- cheologico Nazionale and astounding 18th-century sculptures in the Capella Sansevero. Just leave time for a kayaking tour of the city’s coastline, peppered with ancient ruins and anecdote-sparking . Dedicate two days to day trips from the city. Options include Caserta, home to an epic, Unesco-lauded baroque palace that upstages Versailles, or Ercolano, home to the remarkably well-preserved ruins of Herculaneum. Another option is the underrated Campi Flegrei, a scattering of Graeco-Roman ruins and volcanic landscapes. Snoop around Italy’s third-largest in Pozzuoli, see where emperors soaked in Baia, or seek out the chamber inhabited by Aeneid’s oracle at the ruins in Cuma. Alternatively, slip on a bathing suit and soak like the Romans in Lucrino. Come day six, catch a ferry from Naples across to pastel-coloured Procida and spend a couple of days relaxing in stuck-in-time fishing villages and on secret beaches. From here, it’s a short ferry ride across to the lush, verdant sprawl of Ischia on day eight. Take three days to explore the island’s thermal springs, gardens, wineries and historic sites, among them a commanding Aragonese castle and an archaeological museum filled with local Hellenic finds. From Ischia, high-season ferries offer direct connections to Capri. Outside this period, you will need to head back to Naples to catch a Capri-bound service. Either way, treat yourself to three days on the region’s most fabled island. It’s here that you’ll find the scandal-riddled former retreats of Roman Emperor and French poet Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen, not to mention some of Europe’s most arresting coastal landscapes. SUSAN WRIGHT/LONELY PLANET © Top: SeaTop: urchin dish Bottom: Medieval festival, (p196)

GIO_LE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 24 25 25 Salerno •#

É

Parco Nazionale del Cilento, ÷# Vallo di Diano e Alburni Gulf of Salerno (Cilento, Valley of Diano & (Golfo di Salerno) Alburni Mountains É TRIP YOUR PLAN

National Park) É

Paestum •# •# É •# Vecchia Teggiano Agropoli •# •# Santa Maria di CAMPANIA Castellabate •# •# Castellabate It i nerar É

•# i es É

T Y R R H E N I A N Palinuro S E A •#

CALABRIA

9 DAYS The Cilento Trail

While the lure of Naples, Capri and the Amalfi Coast are irresistible, Campania heaves with lesser-known marvels. From Hellenic temples and cave-studded mountains to one of Italy’s largest monasteries, this route leads down less-trodden paths. Start your adventure in the underrated city of Salerno, home to one of Italy’s most captivating medieval cathedrals. Head up to the Castello di Arechi for sweeping views, and to the revamped waterfront for a late-afternoon passeggiata (stroll). After dark, join the salernitani (Salerno locals) in the city’s vibrant medieval heart for a little bar- hopping and movida (partying). On day two, bid Salerno arrivederci and head inland for three days in the rugged beauty of the Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di Di- ano e Alburni, Italy’s second-largest national park and a Unesco World Heritage site. Base yourself at one of the park’s agriturismi and explore the area’s famous grottoes, namely the Grotte di and Grotte di -. Make sure you spend a morning or afternoon in Padula, famous for its mammoth Carthusian monastery, the 14th-century Certosa di . Not far from the Cer- tosa is the fabled Valle delle Orchidee (Valley of the Orchids), whose 70-plus varieties of orchid create a spectacular blaze of springtime colour. Allow a few hours to explore the shamelessly charming medieval village of Teggiano and make a stop at Roscigno Vecchia. A veritable ghost town abandoned early last century, it’s one of the national park’s more curious sites. Continue west towards the coast on day five to gasp at the mighty Greek temples of Paestum, the oldest of which dates back to the 6th century BC. Spend the evening and the following morning in Agropoli, wandering its atmospheric centro storico (historic centre) before heading south to Santa Maria di Castellabate for superlative seafood noshing. On day seven, head up to the beautiful medieval town of Castellabate and wander its shamelessly charming laneways, then spend the afternoon exploring the an- cient ruins of Velia. End your Cilento travels with a couple of lazy beach days in Palinuro, which, like Capri, lays claim to a dazzling Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto). 26 O•# ff the Beaten Track

PISCINA MIRABILIS ORTO BOTANICO You’ll need to call ahead to access the DI NAPOLI

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN , a cathedral-like If you need a break from Naples’ cistern and marvel of ancient Roman inexhaustible energy, find solace in

engineering, hidden away in a Bacoli this historic botanic garden, bursting backstreet. (p101) with flora from as far afield as Australia. (p76) •# Santa Maria •# Caserta Vetere Castèl Maddaloni •# •#

It Volturno •#

i nerar Arienzo Villaggio (Golfo di Gaeta) •# •# Aversa Coppola •# •#Giugliano in •# i es •# Campania Lido di Naples International #– Licola •# Naples Airport (Capodichino) Pozzuoli •# Mt Vesuvius (Vesuvio; 1281m) •# •# R Torregaveta •# •# •# •#Bacoli Ercolano Procida •# Torre del •# Pompeii Casamicciola •# •# •# Procida •# Monte EpomeoR Ischia (786m) Castellammare Bay of Naples di Stabia •# Ischia (Golfo di Napoli) MONTE EPOMEO & •# Bomerano •# THE HINTERLAND R •# •# Sorrento Positano •# Beyond Ischia’s beaches and spas is a Praiano rugged, lofty interior made for •# Monte Sant'Angelo inspiring, contemplative hikes that Anacapri •# Capri a Tre Pizzi reward with sensational vistas and Capri Town (1443m) natural beauty. (p140)

VINTAGE VILLAS Pompeii and Herculaneum aren’t the only Roman treasures flanking the Bay of Naples, with other survivors including a once-luxurious in ancient . (p108)

PASSEGGIATA DEL PIZZOLUNGO VESUVIUS ON HORSEBACK Escape the selfie sticks, shoppers and poseurs on one of Capri’s most Mt Vesuvius is more than its spectacular walking trails, a panoramic crater, with slopes rich in manageable one-hour saunter that flora and fauna. Explore its takes in spectacular west-coast oft-overlooked wilderness on a sights. (p123) horseback tour. (p109) 27

0 20 km e# 0 10 miles

RAVELLO RAMBLES Right above the Amalfi Coast is a PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN tranquil wonderland of groves,

atmospheric village streets and PUGLIA hypnotic vistas, all accessible on foot. Go on, escape! (p177)

Montesárchio •#

Monte It nzo Vergine HIKING IN THE CILENTO (1493m) i nerar R Tie up your hiking boots and explore a Campania of arresting mountain

•# landscapes, soaring golden eagles •# i es and, in season, colourful carpets of wild flowers. (p197) •# •# CAMPANIA Monte RCervialto (1808m) •# Nocera BASILICATA •#

Cava•# •#Montecorvino •# Salerno Ravello •# •# •# Vietri sul •#•# Mare Amalfi •# •# e el S •# R Petina •#Pertosa Monte •# Alburno •# •#(1742m) Polla Gulf of Salerno Castelcivita (Golfo di Salerno) Capaccio•# Scalo Sala •# Paestum •# •# Consilina •# Roscigno •# Teggiano •# Agropoli Padula •# •# Ogliastro •# •# Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Santa Maria di Vallo di Diano e Alburni Castellabate•# #÷ R Monte •# (1900m) Sanza •# •# Vallo della Marina di Acciaroli •# •#

Ascea •# •# Pisciotta ATRANI •# Amalfi town’s humbler sibling offers Palinuro •# •# San Giovanni understated charm, lower prices and a Piro an authentic vibe that feels much •# more local than its more famous Marina di coastal rivals. (p176) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Brendan Sainsbury Molte grazie to all the skilled Sita bus drivers, helpful Many thanks to the travellers who used the last tourist information staff, generous B&B owners, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful expert pizza kneaders and innocent passers-by advice and interesting anecdotes: who helped me, unwittingly or otherwise, during my Amy Jones, Claire Edwards, Clive Walker, Dale research trip. Special thanks to Alfonso and Rosalia Cooper, Derek Allison, Klaidas Armalis, Mark Galeck, in Agropoli for their help in the Cilento region. Thanks Nestor Gorojovsky, Vicki Schneider also to my wife, Elizabeth; my son, Kieran; and my sister, Theresa, for their company on the road. WRITER THANKS Cristian Bonetto ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Grazie infinite to my Re e Regina di Napoli, Federica Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Rispoli and Ivan Palmieri; Igor Milanese; Gabriella BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the De Micco; Valentina Vellusi; Mirella Armiero; Andrea Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Maglio; Susy Galeone; Enzo Porzio; Marcello De Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Bossa; Luca Coda; Harriet Driver; Alfredo Cefalo; and Illustration pp106-107 by Javier Zarracina Malgorzata Gajo, as well as the many other generous Neapolitans who kindly shared their city insights Cover photograph: Procida, Bay of Naples, Gabriele and secrets. At Lonely Planet, a big thank you to Scotto di Fasano/Getty © Anna Tyler for the commission and to my co-writer Brendan Sainsbury for his stellar research. 280

Quintero. This guidebook was Peter Cruttenden, THIS BOOK produced by the following: Barbara Delissen, Emma This 6th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Anna Tyler Gibbs, Alexander Knights, Jodie Martire Planet’s Naples, Pompeii & the Senior Product Editor Amalfi Coast guidebook was Elizabeth Jones Cover Researcher

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND curated by Cristian Bonetto Naomi Parker Product Editor and researched and written by Ronan Abayawickrema Thanks to Hannah Cartmel, Cristian and Brendan Heather Champion, Sandie Sainsbury. The previous two Senior Cartographer Anthony Phelan Kestell, Claire Naylor, Kirsten editions were written by Rawlings, Victoria Smith, Book Designer Gwen Cotter Cristian and Helena Smith Angela Tinson, Saralinda and Cristian and Josephine Assisting Editors Lucy Cowie, Turner ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281

Index

A Parco Archeologico di Fiordo di Furore 172, 139 Campi Flegrei 59, 93-8, accessible travel 260 Cuma 102 Marina Grande 138, 138 94-5, 59 Acciaroli 185, 194-5, 218 Parco Archeologico di Punta Caruso 138 canoeing 34 Elea Velia 195 accommodation 16, 200-18, Spiaggia dei Maronti 137 Capella Sansevero 47, 47 Parco Vergiliano 75 see also individual Spiaggia del Castello 97 Capodimonte (Naples) 74 Piscina Mirabilis 101 locations Spiaggia del Fornillo 165 accommodation 204-5 language 273-4 Pompeii 9, 59, 103-9, 104, Spiaggia della drinking & nightlife 86 , , activities 20-1, 31-4, see 9 58 106-7 Gavitelli 170 food 82-3 Rione Terra 95-6 also individual activities Spiaggia dei Pescatori 127 shopping 90-1 108 agriturismi 212 Spiaggia di Chiaia 143 sights 71-5 Tempio di Apollo 97-8 Agropoli 185, 192-3, 218 Spiaggia di Faro 126 Cappella di San air travel 267-8 Tempio di Serapide 96 Spiaggia Grande 165 Gennaro 61, 61 Alfonso of 225 121 Spiaggia Grande di 61 Amalfi 172-6, 214-15, Villa Roma Acciaroli 195 Capri 112-26, 205-7, 113 223, 174 Antiquarium 179 Spiaggia Marinella 195 Capri Town 112-20, 116 Amalfi Coast 29-30, 38, Archetiello 196 Spiaggia Palinuro 195 accommodation 205-6 146-81, 147 architecture 18, 249-53 Belvedere di Migliera 121 drinking & nightlife 117 accommodation 146, 123 Belvedere di Tragara 123 food 115-17 209-16 area codes 265 Biblioteca Nazionale di information 120 climate 146 art 18, 66, 231-2, see also Napoli 62-4 orientation 115 food 146 film, music, bicycle travel, see cycling architecture shopping 117, 120 highlights 147 boat travel 268, 269, 270 art galleries, see museums sights 114-15 hiking 10, 148-51, 170, boating & galleries travel to/from 120 148, 10 Amalfi 173 itineraries 155 194 Caravaggio, Michelangelo Forio 136 Merisi da 231 travel seasons 146 ATMs 14, 260 Marina Grande 125-6 Carolina, Maria 226-7 travel to/from 152 Atrani 172, 176 Massa Lubrense 162-3 car travel 17, 268, 270-1, see travel within 152 Palinuro 196 also road trips Anacapri 120-4, 206-7, 122 B Positano 167 driving licences 271 archaeological sites Bacoli 96-8 Procida 143 hire 270-1 & ruins 18 Bagno di Tiberio 125 Sorrento 155 language 277 Anfiteatro Flavio 96 Baia 96-8 Bomerano 148-9 road rules 271 108 Banksy 56 books 220, 234 safety 264 Complesso Monumentale bargaining 17 architecture 250 tolls 271 di San Lorenzo 60-1, Maggiore 53 food 246 traffic 264-5 251-3, 60-1 Herculaneum (Ercolano) history 225, 227, 230 Caserta 78 basilicas, see churches & Borgo Marinaro 67 99-102, 59, 100, 58-9 cathedrals Castellabate 185, 193-4, 218 Boscoreale 108 Napoli Sotterranea 62 bathrooms 265 Castello Aragonese 135 budget 15 Oplontis 108 beaches 33, 138-9 castles, see also palaces bus travel 268, 269-70 Paestum 59, 190-1, 58 Bagni di Tiberio 125 Castel dell’Ovo 67 business hours 263-4 Parco Archeologico di Bagni Regina Giovanna 65-6 Baia 97 155-6 Castel Sant’Elmo 71 Baia di Ieranto 162 C Castello Aragonese 135 Baia di Sorgeto 140 cable cars 162 Castello dell’Abate 194 Map Pages 000 Castellabate Beach 194 Camorra 257-8 Castello di Arechi 186 Photo Pages 000 Il Castello (Agropoli) 192 282 catacombs 254-6 Basilica di San Paolo (Sorrento) 155 embassies 261 Catacombe di San Maggiore 57, 62 Pio Monte della emergencies 15 Gaudioso 73 Basilica di Santa Misericordia 49, 52-3 emigration 236 Catacombe di San Chiara 48 Santa Maria Assunta 127 environmental issues 258 Gennaro 71-3 Basilica di Sant’Antonino Cilento 38, 182, 189-99, Ercolano, see Herculaneum cathedrals, see churches 152, 154 183 (Ercolano)

INDEX INDEX & cathedrals Basilica Santa Maria accommodation 216-18 etiquette 17, 244 della Sanità 73 Catholiciscm 238-40 climate 182 events, see festivals & Capella Sansevero caves food 30 events Grotta Azzurra (Capri) 47, 47 C-H highlights 183 exchange rates 15  Cappella di San Gennaro 10, 124, 10 itineraries 184-5, 190

61 ,61 ,48  Grotta Azzurra travel seasons 182 (Palinuro) 195 Cappella di San Nicola F travel to/from 189-90 Grotta dello di 140 Fanzago, Cosimo 252 Smeraldo 173 Casa e Chiesa di Santa climate 14, 20-1, 260, see Farmacia Storica degli also individual regions Grotta di Maria Francesca delle Incurabili 54, 61 Matermània 123 Cinque Piaghe 66 coffee 246 Ferrante, Elena 84 Grotte di Castelcivita 197 Cathedral (Ravello) 177 commedia dell’arte 234 ferry travel 268, 269, 270 Grotte di Pertosa- Cattedrale di consulates 261 festivals & events 20-1, Auletta 198-9 Sant’Andrea 172-3 Convento del Deserto 163 144, see also individual celebrities 120 Chiesa & Chiostro di San Convento di San Nicola festivals & events Francesco 154 cell phones 14, 265 179-80 Filippo, Eduardo De 233 Chiesa del Gesù cemeteries 73, see costs 15 film 220, 233-4 Nuovo 48-9 also catacombs courses Fontana 140 Chiesa di Madre di Buon centro storico (Naples) cooking 76, 156, 177, 246 food 18, 28-30, 136, 220, Consiglio 72 50-1 credit cards 262-3 241-8 Chiesa di San crime 257-8 books 246 accommodation 201-2 Costanzo 125 drinking & nightlife 83-5 culture 220-1 cooking courses 76, 156, Chiesa di San Domenico 177, 246 entertainment 88 Maggiore 53 currency 14, 263 glossary 247-8 food 77-9 Chiesa di San cycling 32-3, 143, 268-9 shopping 89 Michele 121 internet resources 242 sights 48-62 Chiesa di San Pietro a language 274-6 D mozzarella di bufala 244 walking tour 87, 87 Maiella 57 Dalisi, Riccardo 73 pasta 242-3 centro storico Chiesa di Santa Maria dangers, see safety Assunta 165 pastries 243 (Sorrento) 152 de Magistris, Luigi 230 Chiesa di Santa Maria pizza 242 Certosa e Museo di San de Ribera, Jusepe 232 Martino 69-71 del Carmine 56 slow food movement 169 debit cards 262-3 Cetara 180-1, 216 Chiesa di Santa Maria torta ricotta e pera 192 del Soccorso 135-6 disabilities, travellers Chiaia (Naples) 68-9 Forio 134-7, 208 Chiesa di Sant’Angelo with 260 accommodation 205 funiculars 271-2 a Nilo 62 diving 34 drinking & nightlife 85-6 Furore 172, 213-14 Chiesa di Sant’Anna dei Agropoli 193 entertainment 88 Lombardi 65 Ischia 127 food 80-2 Chiesa di Santo Marina del Cantone 164 G shopping 90 Stefano 114-15 Praiano 171 Galleria Umberto I 65 sights 67-9 Chiesa e Chiostro di San Donna Rosa 168 galleries, see museums & children, travel with 35-6 Gregorio Armeno 53-4 drinks 28-30, 245-6, 274-6, galleries churches & cathedrals, see Chiesa San Giovanni a see also , gardens, see parks & also monasteries Carbonara 54-5 wine gardens Abbazia di San Michele Chiostro del Paradiso 173 driving, see car travel, , Giuseppe 228 Arcangelo 142-3 Complesso motorcycle travel gay travellers 262 Basilica della Santissima Monumentale dei Duomo Grotta Azzurra (Capri) 10, Annunziata 224 Girolamini 253 Naples 48 124, 10 Basilica di San Francesco Complesso Ravello 177 Guglia dell’Immacolata 49 di Paola 64 Monumentale di Santa Salerno 186 Guglia di San Gennaro 53 Basilica di San Giorgio Chiara 48 Sorrento 155 Maggiore 56 Complesso Museale 98-109 di Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco 55 E H earthquakes 229 health 261 Duomo (Naples) 48 Map Pages 000 economy 221 Herculaneum (Ercolano) Duomo (Ravello) 177 Photo Pages 000 electricity 260 59, 99-102, 100, 58-9 Duomo (Salerno) 186 283 hiking 31-2 J (Naples) 50-1 Museo Correale di Amalfi Coast 10, 148-51, Joan II 224 Mergellina (Naples) 68-9 Terranova 154 170, 148, 10 food 83 Camo 177 Capri 123 sights 75 K Museo del Mare 127 Ischia 140 kayaking 34 metro travel 272 Museo del Novecento 71 Minori 179-80 Agropoli 192 Minori 177, 179-80

Museo del INDEX Palinuro 196 Naples 75 mobile phones 14, 265 Sottosuolo 256 Parco Nazionale del Procida 143 monasteries, see Museo del Tesoro di San Cilento, Vallo di Diano also churches & Gennaro 56-7 e Alburni 197 cathedrals H-N Museo della Carta 173 Praiano 170 L Certosa di San  Ravello 177 La Caravella 172 Giacomo 114 Museo della Ceramica 181 historic buildings & sites La Mortella 134-5, 119 Certosa di San Museo delle Arti Sanitarie 54 Galleria Borbonica 67 La Sanità (Naples) 74 Lorenzo 198 Museo di Paestum 191 Ospedale degli accommodation 204-5 Certosa e Museo di San Museo Diocesano di Incurabili 54 drinking & nightlife 86 Martino 61, 69-71, 61 Napoli 55-6 Palazzo Orsini food 82-3 money 14, 15, 260, 262-3 in Gravina 65 Monte Epomeo 140 Museo Duca di shopping 90-1 Martina 71 history 58-9, 222-30 Monte Faito 162 sights 71-5 Museo Nitsch 66-7 books 225, 227, 230 Monte Nuovo 96 Lacco Ameno 133-41, 208 Museo Pignatelli 67 Bourbons 226-8 Monte Solaro 125, 118 Lago d’Averno 97-8 Museo Pinacoteca 222 language 14, 17, 235-6, Montepertuso 168 Provinciale 186 internet resources 223 273-8 Moscato, Enzo 233 Museo Virtuale della 223-5 Le Grottelle 117 motorcycle travel 268, Scuola Medica Romans 222-3 legal matters 261-2 270-1 Salernitana 186, 188 Spanish period 225-6 lesbian travellers 262 Mt Vesuvius 13, 102-3, Torre a Mare 170-1 WWII 189, 228-9 LGBT+ travellers 262 109, 13 Torre-Museo 176 holidays 264 limoncello 124, 245 municello 256 di Axel hot springs 33 literature, see books Museo Archeologico Munthe 121 Nazionale 11, 44-5, Lucrino 96-8 music 141, 232-3 11, 44 Lungomare 67-8 I museums & galleries N il Capitano 77 Casa Museo 137-40 Il Focolare 137 M Naples 37, 40-93, 49, 60-1, Casa Rossa 122-3 see also individual Il Vallone dei Mulino 155 Mafia, see Camorra Certosa e Museo di San neighbourhoods immigration 267 Maggio dei Monumenti Martino 69-71 accommodation 201-5 insurance 261 20, 76 Franco Senesi 167 activities 75-6 internet access 261 Marina Corricella 142, 118 Gallerie d’Italia – Palazzo climate 40 internet resources 15 Marina del Cantone 164-5, Zevallos Stigliano 64-5 212 drinking & nightlife 83-6 Ischia 126-41, 207-9, Gallery Celentano 154 Marina della Lobra 162 entertainment 88 128-9, 119 Laboratorio Oste 73-5 Marina di Casal Velino 194 festivals & events 76-7 Ischia Ponte 127-33, MADRE 53 Marina Grande (Capri) food 29, 77-83 207-8, 132 MAV 101 124-7, 207 itineraries 57 Ischia Porto 127-33, MeMus 64 Marina Grande neighbourhoods 42-3 207-8, 132 Museo Angelo Rizzoli 133 (Sorrento) 152 shopping 89-92 Islands, the 37, 110-45, 111 Museo Archeologico dei markets sights 44-75 accommodation 110, Campi Flegrei 97 La Pignasecca 65 tourist information 92 205-9 Museo Archeologico di Mercatino climate 110 Pithecusae 133 tours 76 dell’Umberto 91 festivals 144 Museo Archeologico travel seasons 40 Mercatino di travel to/from 92 food 29, 110 Antignano 91 Nazionale 11, 44-5, 11, 44 travel within 92-3 highlights 111 Mercatino di 91 Museo Archeologico walking tours 87, 87 itineraries 134 Mercato Caramanico a Provinciale 186 travel seasons 110 91 Napoli Teatro Festival Italia Museo Archeologico 21, 76 travel to/from 145 Mercato di Porta Provinciale della Isola di 143 Nolana 56 national parks Lucania Isole 123 Mercato Sant’Antonio Parco Nazionale del Occidentale 198 Cilento, Vallo di Diano Italian 273-8 Abate 91 Museo Bottega della e Alburni 196-9, 198 itineraries 22-7, 22, 23, Massa Lubrense 162-3, 211 Tarsia Lignea 154 25, 26-7 measures 263 Museo Civico Filangieri 55 284 national parks continued passports 267 entertainment 88 SITA buses 164 Parco Nazionale del pasta 242-3 food 79-80 smoking 263 Vesuvio 102 phonecards 265 shopping 89-90 snorkelling, see diving Negombo 133-4 Piazza Bellini 55 sights 62-7 Solimena, Francesco 231-2 newspapers 263 Piazza 67 Sorrento 152-62, 153, 160 Nocelle 171 Piazza dei Martiri 84 R accommodation 209-11 INDEX INDEX Piazza del Gesù Nuovo 49 radio 263 activities 155-6 O Piazza del Mercato 56 Ravello 11, 176-9, 215-16 courses 156 opening hours 263-4 Piazza del Plebiscito 64 178, 11 drinking & nightlife 157-8 N-T opera 232 114 21, 177-8, festivals & events 156  Oplontis 108 Piazzetta Nilo 62 Reggia di Caserta 78, 61, food 156-7  O’Puledrone 156 185, 194 60-1 information 159 Orto Botanico di Napoli 76 Piscina Mirabilis 101 religion 221 shopping 158-9 Ospedale degli Pisciotta 185, 194-5, 218 Rione Terra 95-6 sights 152-5 Incurabili 54 pizza 242 road trips 184-5, 184 travel to/from 159 planning ruins, see archaeological travel within 159-62 P budgeting 15 sites & ruins 162-5 Paestum 12, 59, 184, 190-2, calendar of events 20-1 spas 33 216-17, 13, 58 children, travel with 35-6 S Giardini Poseidon 136 painting 231-2 first-time visitors 16-17 safety 264-5 Negombo 133-4 palaces, see also castles internet resources 15 saints 238-40 Parco Termale Aphrodite Palazzo dello itineraries 22-7, , , Salerno 38, 182, 186-9, Apollon 140 Spagnuolo 73 22 23 25, 26-7 183, 187 Terme Cavascura 140 Palazzo Donn’Anna 224 Naples basics 14-15 accommodation 216 Terme Stufe di Nerone 98 Palazzo Mannajuolo 68 regions 37-8 climate 182 Spiaggia di Faro 126 Palazzo Murat 165, 167 travel seasons 14, 20-1 food 30 Stabiae 108 Palazzo Reale 62-4 politics 221, 229-30 highlights 183 98 Palazzo Reale di itineraries 190 Pompeii 9, 37, 103-9, 59, Strada Statale 163 164 Capodimonte 12, 46, travel seasons 182 , 104, 9, 58, 106-7 street art 56 12 46 travel within 191 Palazzo Sanfelice 73 population 221, 236-7 subterranean Naples 254-6 Salerno Mutiny 189 Reggia di Caserta 78, Posillipo (Naples) superstitions 238-40 Salto di Tiberio 121 61, 60-1 food 83 swimming 33 Sambuco 180 Palinuro 185, 195-6, 218 sights 75 185 Parco Nazionale del Positano 9, 165-70, 166, T Cilento, Vallo di Diano 8-9, 161 San Marco di taxes 263 Castellabate 193 e Alburni 196-9, accommodation 212-13 taxis 272 217-18, 198 drinking & nightlife 168-9 Santa Lucia (Naples) 68-9 Teatro San Carlo 64 Parco Sommerso di food 167-8 accommodation 205 Teggiano 196 Gaiola 75 information 169 drinking & nightlife 85-6 telephone services 265 parks & gardens 19, see shopping 169 entertainment 88 Tenuta Vannulo 191 also national parks sights 165-7 food 80-2 theatre 233 Giardini di Augusto 114 tours 167 shopping 90 thermal baths, see spas Giardini Ravino 135 travel to/from 169-70 sights 67-9 time 14, 265 La Mortella 134-5, 119 travel within 170 125 tipping 17, 263 Monte Nuovo 96 postal services 264 Santa Maria di toilets 265 Parco Virgiliano 75 Castellabate 185, 193 Pozzuoli 95-6 Toledo (Naples) 63 177 Sant’Agata sui due Golfi Praiano 170-2, 213 accommodation 202-4 Villa Comunale 68-9 163-4, 211-12 Procida 12, 141-5, 209, drinking & nightlife 85 Villa Comunale Park 155 Sant’Angelo 137-41, 208-9 142, 12, 118-19 entertainment 88 Villa Floridiana 71 Sapri 185 public holidays 264 food 79-80 176, 161 Scala 177 Punta Campanella Marine shopping 89-90 Villa San Michele di Axel scams 264 Reserve 164 sights 62-7 Munthe 121 Scarlatti, Alessandro 232 Punta del Fortino 196 Torre 180 Passeggiata del Seggiovia del Monte Pizzolungo 123 Solaro 125 220-1 Q Sentiero degli Dei 148-9 tourist information 265-6 Quartieri Spagnoli Settimana Santa 20, 156 train travel 268, 272 (Naples) 63 shopping 276, see also travel to/from Campania Map Pages 000 accommodation 202-4 individual locations 267-8 Photo Pages 000 drinking & nightlife 85 shrines 240 285 travel within Campania Via San Gregorio Armeno food 82 weather 14, 20-1, see 268-72 54 shopping 91-2 also individual regions trekking, see hiking Vietri sul Mare 181 sights 69-71 websites, see internet Trentova-Tresino 192 Villa Jovis 121 resources TV 263 121 weights 263 Villa Malaparte 123 W wine 245 walking, see hiking Villa Roma Antiquarium 179 Wine & The City 20, 76 INDEX V walking tours 87, 87 visas 14, 266 work 266 vacations 264 Walton, Susana 141 (Naples) 72 Velia 185 Walton, William 141 drinking & nightlife 86  T-W Vesuvius 13, 102-3, 109, 13 entertainment 88  286 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/ International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Cristian Bonetto Naples, Pompeii & Around Cristian has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, including New York City, Italy, & the Veneto, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publications around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne. Instagram: rexcat75. Cristian also wrote Plan Your Trip and Understand.

Brendan Sainsbury The Islands, The Amalfi Coast, Salerno & the Cilento Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he has since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. His rocking-chair memories will probably include staging a performance of ‘A Comedy of Errors’ at a school in war-torn Angola and 150 miles across the Sahara Desert in the Marathon des Sables. In the last 11 years, he has written over 40 books for Lonely Planet, covering everything from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru. Brendan also wrote the Activities and Travel with Children chapters.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 6th edition – January 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 277 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Top View