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Home , Battle of Stiklestad, Frei (island), Hammerfest, Hammerfest (town), Harstad, Harstad (town)

HOUSTON MUSEUM OF NATURAL SCIENCE Northern Lights & Viking Voyage: Iceland and March 15 - 26, 2018

March 2018 Moon Phases: 3/2  full | 3/9  ¾ | 3/17  new | 3/24  ¼ | 3/31  full  indicates evening to hunt Northern Lights (above )

+ indicates an optional excursion offered by . Advance registration is recommended. Registration requires a deposit of $1,000 per person which will go towards the $4,395 per person base price of the trip. Registration form available at www.hmns.org/travel , email [email protected], or call 713.639-4737.

Itinerary at a Glance Daily Itinerary

Day 0, March 14: Travel Day Day 0 - Wed, 3/14: Travel Day Overnight flight from USA to Iceland Overnight flight from USA to Iceland

Days 1-4, March 15 - 18: Iceland Some travelers may choose to arrive a day or two early to have Viking history, Golden Circle, southern time to adjust from jetlag or additional days for Icelandic coast and Northern Lights expeditions excursions. You can book additional pre-nights directly with Storm

Storm Hotel, Reykjavík, Iceland Hotel or online travel site.

Day 5, March 19: Travel Day Additional Reykjavík Excursions that you can you can book on Fly from Reykjavík to (via ) your own Thon Hotel, Kirkenes, Norway Options include Blue Lagoon Spa, Whale Watching Cruise, Days 6-10, March 20 - 24: Norway Glacier Ice Cave and Lava Cave, North American- European Southbound journey of Norwegian Plate, Game of Thrones Filming Site, Snorkeling in Thingvellir coastline with stops at 32 ports National Park, Hop-On Hop-Off Tour. MS Finnmarken (5 nights) Viator is recommended: www.viator.com/Reykjavik/d905-ttd Day 11, March 25: Disembark Clarion Admiral, , Norway Day 1 - Thur, 3/15: Arrive in Reykjavík, Viking Feast  Day 12, March 26: Depart for USA Hotel Storm, Reykjavík, D

Upon arrival in Reykjavík, Iceland after your overnight flight from Trip Package includes (page 5) the US, you can check into Storm Hotel. A shuttle will pick you up  11 nights hotel accommodations from the airport for those arriving in Reykjavík today. You will  23 meals (noted B,L,D in itinerary) likely arrive in Reykjavík in the morning with time for some  2 flights: Oslo-Kirkenes, Bergen-Oslo sightseeing on your own of the city, joining an optional excursion,  HMNS Curators: Carolyn Sumners escape to the Blue Lagoon Spa, or shower and nap after the long & Dirk Van Tuerenhout flight.

This evening is our first group event, a welcome dinner—Viking style—in the nearby of Valhalla at Fjörugarðurinn. At their Viking Village restaurant we will be introduced to Viking history and lore. We will enjoy a true Viking feast of four courses with traditional dishes served in old- fashioned Viking-style trays. Our lunches will be on own at lunch stops during our full-day excursions. Then we set out for our first night to hunt for the Northern Lights.

Itinerary, page 1 Northern Lights & Viking Voyage: Iceland & Norway, March 2018 www.hmns.org/travel 1

Day 2 - Fri, 3/16: Reykjavík Museums & Historic Sites  Hotel Storm, Reykjavík, BL This morning we tour the National Museum of Iceland which covers all of Iceland's history, including the Viking era. We then head to the Old Harbor for a traditional fish and chips lunch at Vikin restaurant and visits to the Maritime Museum and the Saga Museum. Our final stop is Landnámssýningin, aka The Settlement Exhibition museum. We will see artifacts from the Saga age, including parts of Viking long house from the 10th century on display in situ at the excavation site. This house is the oldest known Viking structures in Iceland. Also on exhibition are archaeological remains of the oldest relics of human habitation in Reykjavík, with some of the fragments found dating to before 871 AD. After this stop you can continue exploring this area on your own, or take the bus back to the hotel. This evening dinner is on your own before departing by coach on our Northern Light hunt. On our evenings in Iceland, if space weather conditions are not ripe for producing Borealis, our group’s excursion may be forfeited. This will be decided by our local expert guides.

Day 3 - Sat, 3/17: Reykjavík, Southern Coast  Hotel Storm, Reykjavík, B Known for its black beaches, picturesque waterfalls and magnificent glaciers, the southern coast of Iceland is where we explore today. On our journey we witness the many sides of Icelandic nature and culture. Skógafoss Waterfall, Reynisfjara Beach and Sólaheimasandur Glacier are among highlights. Farms, small villages, horses grazing amidst glaciers, active geothermal areas, black sand deserts and terrific cliffs will capture your eye and provide endless photo opportunities. We arrive back in Reykjavík early in the evening. Tonight dinner is on your own before our evening aurora hunt.

Day 4 - Sun, 3/18: Reykjavík, Golden Circle  Hotel Storm, Reykjavík, B Today we experience the fabled Golden Circle which showcases Iceland’s main attractions, the Saga, geothermal wonders and powerful nature. We visit historical locations such as Þingvellir National Park and Skálholt Church in addition to beautiful sites such as Gullfoss Waterfall and Geysir Hot Spring. Our local guide will share the history and geology of the area. Again, dinner is on your own before our evening aurora excursion.

Day 5 - Mon, 3/19: Travel Day, Reykjavík - Kirkenes (layover in Oslo)  Thon Hotel, Kirkenes, B Today we depart Iceland for Norway. After we change planes in Oslo, we head to Kirkenes in the extreme northeastern part of Norway near the Russian border.  The March 2018 flight schedules are not available. We expect our flights will be close this March 2017 schedule: KEF – OSL: FI318/SK4788, 12:30 p – 4:32 p (part or your international air ticket on Iceland Air that you book on your own) OSL – KKN: SK4478, 5:55 p – 8:00 p (included in trip package)

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Kirkenes is the only town in Norway where east meets west. Russian influence can be seen throughout—even the street signs are in both Norwegian and Russian. Most of the approximately 7,000 inhabitants are of Norwegian background, while a minority are native of and or Sámi, the indigenous people of the Scandinavian Arctic. Sámi culture emphasizes harmony with nature, and has a long heritage of herding, coast and herbal medicine. The Sámi culture is several thousand years old, and has been heavily influenced by the natural environment in the . This evening we will check into Thon Hotel in Kirkenes. After dinner on your own, we will gather on the shore outside our hotel to scan the sky for the Northern Lights.

Day 6 - Tues, 3/20: Kirkenes – Vardø  Port Arrival Departure MS Finnmarken, BLD Kirkenes 12:30 PM This morning you have a couple of hours to explore Kirkenes Vardø 3:45 PM 4:45 PM on your own as all points of interest are an easy walk from the hotel. A visit to Andersgrotta, the town’s bomb shelter during Båtsfjord 7:45 PM 8:15 PM World War II, will enlighten you of the town's experiences Berlevåg 10:00 PM 10:15 PM during the war. It served as an air-raid shelter and bunker as wave upon wave of Russian bombers sought to knock out the Nazi ore shipping facility. Walking through the town you can also see the Russian Monument that honors for the for the liberation of Sør-Varanger from the Nazis in the autumn of 1944 and War Mothers Monument in the town commemorating women's efforts during the war. There are also two notable museums. Grenselandmuseet hosts exhibitions from the border area. The art museum Savio features works depicting the Sami reindeer herders, culture and nature in the north by well-known Sami artist John Andreas Savio (1902-1938). You may also catch a ride to the Map of Cruise Route Russian border crossing station, just a

15-minute drive from town. Here there are a few shops with traditional Russian souvenir items and you can take a selfie with Russia. This morning we board our ship at the north-south turning point of Hurtigruten in Kirkenes. As the ship begins its voyage south, you can enjoy a wonderful lunch followed by views of Arctic wilderness from deck or the panorama lounge. Throughout our time aboard, various presentations will be given by ship crew and special

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guests. Topics can include history with Russia, marine life, lesson in maritime knot tying, and possibly visits from local fisherman with samples of their fresh catches. In the afternoon the ship docks in Vardø, Norway’s easternmost port. Here you can be christened for our voyage in the Barents —yes, ice bathing is offered right at our dock. You have time for a brisk walk into town. There are two suggested points of interest within walking distance from our port. The Steilneset Memorial commemorates the victims of the witches' trials in the 16th and 17th centuries. It consist of the House of Flames and the Memorial Hall in remembrance of the 135 individuals who were indicted and 91 who burned at the stake. From our ship en route to Båtsfjord we will pass Hamningberg. The now abandoned fishing village of colorful wooden houses is a unique example of well-preserved architecture of the 19th century. It is very few places in all of County that was not burned down by the retreating Germans in the latter part of WWII. We have a short stop at Båtsfjord which is one of the major catch landing centers for the Norwegian fishing industry, and has several fish processing factories, a freezing plant, a filleting factory and ship repair yards. Here we can see the bustling work of the harbor from our ship.

As we continue along the Varanger peninsula approaching Berlevåg, we will pass Kjølnes Lighthouse—one of the most spectacular along the coast, situated on a narrow piece of land reaching out into the often-roaring . The 2001 docu-musical “Cool and Crazy” (Heftig og begeistret) brought worldwide fame for the local men’s choir of Berlevåg, the largest fishing villages in Finnmark County.

Day 7 - Wed, 3/21, SPRING EQUINOX: – Tromsø  MS Finnmarken, BLD Port Arrival Departure In the middle of the night you can travel by snowmobile 12:45 AM 1:00 AM through one of Europe’s most extreme and exciting natural areas. You begin at Mehamn at 1 a.m. and meet the ship at the Kjøllefjord 2:45 AM 3:00 AM next port in Kjøllefjord at 3 a.m. In addition to boats and ships, Honningsvåg 5:30 AM 5:45 AM the preferred means of transport is the snowmobile, so it is Havøysund 7:45 AM 8:00 AM appropriate this is the location for the optional Snowmobile adventure. Hammerfest 10:45 AM 11:45 AM Øksfjord 2:30 PM 2:45 PM Snowmobile Trip in the Polar Night, (Mehamn- + Skjervøy 6:00 PM 6:30 PM Kjøllefjord, $517, 2 hr 15 min, #8F, LEVEL 3) Tromsø 11:45 PM 1:30 AM Here you can experience a polar night in the wilderness! You will drive a snowmobile through the beautiful Arctic landscape of -clad valleys at night. You may be lucky enough to see the northern lights flicker across the clear night sky. Mehamn has been a trade center since the days of the Pomor trade with Russia. Whaling and shipping magnate Svend Foyn established the whaling station in Mehamn in 1885, and it became the largest of its kind in Finnmark County. As we continue from Honningsvåg, we will pass the , the iconic cliff marked with a globe monument, marking the point where the Norwegian Sea, part of the Atlantic Ocean, meets the Barents Sea, part of the . This is also the spot of two annual amazing spectacles—one of nature and the other with a little help from man. In the spring, the Norwegian Army’s landing craft transport around 3,800 reindeer across the Magerøy Strait to

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their summer pastures on Magerøy Island. However, during the fall, when it is time for the reindeer to return to the snow-clad plains of , the animals and their calves swim across the mile plus wide strait. Now heading southward, we pass Gjesværstappan, one of the biggest bird cliffs in Norway. It is home to an impressive variety of species. Almost 1 million puffins live there, along with numerous northern gannets, cormorants, kittiwakes, common guillemots and northern fulmar. Havøysund is an important transshipment port. The hectic goings-on are quite entertaining to view from deck. Based on archaeological evidence, settlements in this area date back to the Neolithic. After our short stop here we pass Havøygavlen Windmill Park at Gavlen. The 16 windmills here can power up to 6,000 households. Hjelmsøystauren, just off the coast of Havøysund, is a well-known bird mountain. It boasts the highest number of different bird species gathered on a bird mountain in all of Europe. Kittiwakes, common guillemots and razorbills are among the species nesting here. This morning, we will be introduced to Melkøya, the northernmost natural gas terminal. Established in 1789, Hammerfest is the world’s northernmost town—lying roughly at the same latitude as the northernmost parts of and . In spite of the extreme northern location there is no . Hammerfest has a long, eventful history. Back in 1891, it was the first town in to get electric street lighting produced purely from hydropower. Here you can join the optional guided city tour via bus, or you can explore the area near the port. The legendary Society, a museum displaying the history of Arctic hunting, is adjacent to the port terminal.

+ Hammerfest Excursion: Meridian Column & Mount Salen (Hammerfest, $65, 1 hr, #8B) Upon arrival in Hammerfest, the bus will take you to the Meridian Column, which commemorates the first official measurement of the exact size and shape of Earth in 1854. It is listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Sites as . This place also offers spectacular views of Melkøya and the the Snøhvit field, where gas from the Snøhvit field in the Barents Sea is processed. While heading up to Mount Salen, you will learn more about Hammerfest’s unique history, and culture, and Europe’s first LNG factory. From Mount Salen, there is a great view over the town. On the way back to port you see the town church, whose modern architecture was inspired by fish-drying racks. We continue south to Øksfjord where colorful houses cling to a dramatic mountain landscape. To the southeast you can catch a glimpse Norway’s fifth largest glacier, Øksfjordjøkulen towering nearly 4,000 feet above sea level. This is the only glacier on mainland Norway to calve directly into the sea, a uniquely arctic phenomenon. After crossing open water, we will make a brief stop at the old trading post of Skjervøy. The oldest wooden church in the Nord-Hålogaland diocese, built in 1728, is found in Skjervøy, a 5-minute walk from our port. Then we sail through the beautiful Lyngenfjord, surrounded by the snowy peaks of the Alps. Tromsø is called “The Gateway to the Arctic,” which is suitable given, as the majority of polar expeditions started in Tromsø and Arctic hunting is part of the city's history. We dock in Tromsø just in time for a midnight concert at the Arctic Cathedral. Alternatively, a walk around town will give you the chance to enjoy a local brew in one of Tromsø's many friendly pubs like Mack Bar. + Midnight Concert in the Arctic Cathedral (Tromsø, $92, 1 hr 15 min, #8C) Visible from town, the Arctic Cathedral stands proud at the end of the long Tromsø bridge set against the background of the 4,062-foot Tromsdalstind peak. The incredible acoustics of the candlelit church fill up combines for a magical experience of beautiful Norwegian folk songs, classical music and hymns.

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Day 8 - Thur, 3/22:– – Vesterålen – – Svolvær  MS Finnmarken, BLD Port Arrival Departure There is a place north of the Arctic Circle which is so amazing, Tromsø 11:45 PM 1:30 AM words cannot describe it. It’s a place you simply have to 4:15 AM 4:45 AM experience yourself. This place is called the Lofoten Islands. Our daylight sail through the Lofoten Isands is a highlight for many 8:00 AM 8:30 AM travelers. The Lofoten region is renowned for its natural beauty Risøyhamm 10:45 AM 11:00 AM with steep mountains, wild nature and small, picturesque fishing villages. 12:30 PM 1:00 PM Stokmarkenes 2:15 PM 3:15 PM As we approach Harstad, you will see charming terraced Svolvær 6:30 PM 8:30 PM buildings beginning at the harbor and sweeping up against a backdrop of forests and mountains. While the sea on one side Stamsund 10:00 PM 10:30 PM has brought activity to the town, the relatively fertile farming communities to the west and north have provided a good basis for the dairy and processing industries. In Harstad we disembark as a group and take a bus to Trondenes, reuniting with the ship in Sortland. After seeing the sites through the streets of Harstad, we move on to the Trondenes peninsula. Trondenes was a power center of the Viking era. In 1030 during Battle of , local chieftain Thorir Hund killed the King of Norway Olav Haraldsson, who became patron saint of Norway. Trondenes Church is the northernmost medieval church in the world. It is surrounded by a stone wall—with a surprisingly clever design. As Trondenes played a decisive role in many events during Viking times, the wall certainly was part of a defensive system. When viewed from the sea, there was an allusion that the wall was more robust than it actually was. It was built to fool and scare off those who sailed by who might have had bad intentions. Replacing the original buildings, the existing Gothic stone church was built as a defense fortification with high windows that could be used as embrasures for firing weapons. The interior has beautiful examples of decorative arts from the church’s history, including gothic triptychs, medieval frescoes, a baroque pulpit, Rococo choir screen, and remains of chalk paintings, most of which were painted over after the . Trondenes Church still an active parish today. Near the Trondenes church, and located on truly historic ground, the Trondenes Historical Centre tells the story of the region from prehistory to present day with great focus on the Viking and with artifacts and dynamic, multi-sensory exhibitions. On the grounds of the center are historic turf-roofed boathouses, several burial mounds, and 2,000 year old farm mound. We will also see sites of the painful WWI era including German barracks used during the Nazi occupation, Russian POW camp, and Finnmark refugee camp. On the heights above the church and Historical Centre is Trodenes Fortress, built by Russian prisoners of war during World War II, where four Adolf Guns point out to sea. These guns were originally built to be mounted on battleships commissioned by the Third Reich. In 1941 when the shipbuilding plans were halted, Hitler had the guns placed on shore to form part of the Atlantic Wall coastal fortifications. The Adolf Gun had a range of 35 miles—capable of firing at all the sailing routes visible in every direction from this spot. Trondenes Fortress is still in military use by the Norwegian Navy. The Adolf Gun, however, is open to visitors. We will go below the gun to the bunker, up into the turret to see the enormous firing mechanism, and take a look down the 70-foot long barrel. Then we travel across Hinnøya Island to enjoy a view of beautiful , steep mountains and large fertile agricultural areas. As we ferry across the Gullesfjord, we will be given a hot drink and freshly baked cakes.

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Risøyhamn is a village on the island of Andøya. It lies by the Risøy strait, where a bridge connects Andøya with Hinnøya. Several bird colonies are found close by, and one of them is a nesting place for at least 160,000 puffins. The area has enormous peat bogs, large cloudberry marshes and coal deposits (that aren't commercially viable). The mine at Ramså is popularly known as “The open geology book.” It consists of 180 mile thick deposits of sandstone containing coal under layers of sandstone and shale as well as the complete skeletons of ichthyosaurs, enormous fish-like dinosaurs that roamed the area 150 million years ago. (We may be able to stop here if time permits.) We board our ship again at Sortland, known as the blue city. It all began with the idea to paint the city blue to celebrate the arrival of the new millennium. This was the start of a lively process involving not only local artists, but the general public as well. Sortland in Vesterålen is situated in the realm of hundreds of islands that form a fantastic landscape, small rocky islands formed from glacial activity. is the idyllic village where founded Hurtigruten more than 120 years ago. Here you can visit the Museum of Hurtigruten, where the changes that have been made on board the ships over the last 120 years are displayed, along with darker tales of seafaring history. Next to the museum you’ll find the old ship MS Finnmarken as an impressive landmark. Near our port is the weathered Rød Brygga Pub founded in 1906. Overlooking the Vestfjord is Svolvær, a unique city with an eclectic scene. In addition to the fishing village where age-old seagoing traditions still are preserved, Svolvær has a bustling art community. The galleries and museums that fill the streets feature works from artists who flock here for the amazing scenery and, above all else, the light. Svolvær has been a thriving fishing community since 1828. If you take the 15-minute walk across the bridge to Svinøya Island, you will see traditional fishermen’s huts called rorbus and iconic racks. While exploring the oldest part in the quarters of, you will learn about its early history. The most famous symbol here is Svolværgeita, a steep pillar of granite that beckons climbers from all over the world and get their adrenaline fix jumping between the two horns of the peak. There are three optional excursions you can take part in during our 2-hour stop in Svolvær. You have three choices of optional excursions when we arrive in Svolvær. Unfortunately there is only time to do one of these.

+ Trollfjord Cruise - Sea Eagle Safari (Svolvær, $182, 2 hrs) The area surrounding Trollfjord is the realm of the mighty sea eagle. On a smaller boat, we sail into this narrow , surrounded by steep mountains. As you feed the gulls, who dive for fish right from your hand, the sea eagles become interested. The guides let these beautiful, rare birds of prey circle the boat a few times, before they throw fish into the sea for them to catch. Very often several of these majestic birds are observed during the trip. Typically a number of sea eagles will circle above the boat, giving you a close up view. Coffee, biscuits and a taste of stockfish will be served aboard.

+ Fishing Village Walk (Svolvær, $83, 1 hr 30 min, #9F) Join a guided walk to Svinøya Island to see a traditional fishing village, hear stories of the village history, taste locally made stockfish, visit painter Gunnar Bergs’ gallery and enjoy the unique atmosphere of this special corner of Norway.

+ Gimsøy Viking Relics by Horse (Svolvær-Stamsund, $175, 3 hr 30 min, #9D, LEVEL 3) A great concentration of Saga relics are located in Gimsøy on the Lofoten Archipelago’s Atlantic coast.

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These monuments are etched into the landscape. Few tourist see these sites as they are only accessible by horseback. There is no . Enjoy the wonder of an evening trot through the powdery white sand, over the hillsides, and past exciting relics from the . As we depart at sunset, it is possible to see the northern lights across the clear sky. You will meet the Icelandic steeds at the Hov Horse Farm in Gimsøy. Icelandic horses are well-known for their good temperament. Their gentle, ambling gait makes this a horseback ride suitable for riders with all levels of experience. After dismounting, you’re taken to Stamsund, where our ship is waiting. In Stamsund we will pick up those who venture on horseback to the Viking relics in Gimsøy. The largest house found anywhere in the Viking world is in this region. Excavated in 1983, the farm has been rebuilt and a museum. Unfortunately our trip doesn’t sync with their hours of operation.

Day 9 - Fri, 3/23: Arctic Circle Crossing – Brønnøysund – Rørvik  MS Finnmarken, BLD Port Arrival Departure The strongest maelstrom in the world—Saltstraumen—with water speeds reaching 22 knots, is situated just southeast of Bodø 2:30 AM 4:15 AM Bodø. The tidal currents create a whirlpool of extraordinary Ørnes 7:00 AM 7:15 AM force. The strength of the vortex is affected by the lunar cycle. 11:00 AM 11:15 AM During our short stop in Ørnes you can visit the Love Bench at Sandnessjøen 12:30 PM 1:00 PM the tip of the pier. To make sure your love will last forever, bring Brønnøysund 3:45 PM 5:00 PM your sweetheart and a padlock, then attach the lock behind the Rørvik 8:30 PM 9:30 PM bench and throw the keys into the sea. Crossing the Arctic Circle at 66°33’N is an important rite of passage. We hit this mark as we sail from Ørnes to Nesna. Today we celebrate our Arctic Circle crossing this with a taste of our Arctic traditions out on deck. At this momentous point we have views of Svartisen, Norway’s second largest glacier. From deck you can see locals embark and disembark, and mail and cargo getting loaded on and off the ship—a part of everyday life along the coast—during our short dock at Nesna. A beautiful parade of peaks lovingly called the Seven Sisters mountain range will be in view as we approach Sandnessjøen. All seven mountains are between 900 and 1,100 meters high, and it is easy to understand why these “ladies” have inspired ancient myths. Torolv Kvedulvsson, a Viking chieftain of the Saga era, lived at Sandnessjøen. He collected taxes from the Sami people for , the first king of Norway, but became too powerful for the king’s liking and had to pay with his life. Brønnøysund marks the halfway point along the western coast of Norway. Torghatten, a mountain on the nearby island Torget, is famous for its characteristic hole which goes right thought the mountain. The hole can be seen from our ship’s deck, just as it has been viewed by seafarers through the ages. Stone Age settlements have been uncovered in the limestone caves in this area at Sportsplassen. During the Viking era Torgar, at the foot of the mountain Torghatten, was a nationally powerful chieftain seat with important commercial center along the coast. In the medieval era, Duke Skule and his men wiped out the original inhabitants in an outright massacre in the Norwegian civil wars that raged around 1240.

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Brønnøy Church is a stone church in the Neo-Gothic style dating back to 1870; however, parts of the structure date to medieval times. The church's oldest artifact is a pre-Reformation wooden crucifix hung prominently above the altar. At Brønnøysund you can explore the harbor and village area on own or with the optional guided tour.

+ Brønnøysund Village Walk (Brønnøysund, $75, 1 hr 15 min, #10A) Join us on this guided walk in Brønnøysund, known for the legendary mountain Torghatten. The village walk of Brønnøysund takes you on a historical journey from the 1800s to the present day. This excursion takes you on a guided tour through Brønnøysund to see sights such as Brønnøy Church. At one of the many small scale producers of local food in the area, the owner will tell us about the production and serve a small taste. At the harbor, samples of fresh shrimp are offered. Just outside of Brønnøysund we sail past the Vegaøyan, The Vega Archipelago. Consisting of over 600 islands, reefs and , the Vega Islands received UNESCO status for the rare harmony between the islanders and eider ducks. Fishermen and farmers have been involved in eiderdown harvesting for over 1,500 years. The eider ducks breed in houses specially built for them and can be found alongside lighthouses, fishing villages and astonishing landscapes. From deck we will see the modern design of the elegant Bridge. Completed in 1991, this cable-stayed road bridge with semi-fan system connects to the mainland. Rørvik is a port town in the Vikna archipelago, a municipality consisting of approximately 6,000 islands, islets and reefs. Here, in late winter the great wonder happens—the spawning north Atlantic skrei—comes from the Barents Sea to the coast of Norway. There is no other place south of the Lofoten Islands where the fishing for this cod has been more valued by people than in Rørvik, who celebrate the arrival of the sprawning cod with an annual culinary and cultural festival Skreifestivalen. Here you can enjoy the traditional plate of skrei with liver and roe, as well as the delicious creamed fish soup from Vikna.  “Caviar versus Roe.” CulinaryLore, May 20, 2014 Roe and caviar basically refer to the same thing: fish eggs. However, the term roe refers to the fish eggs (or male fish sperm) themselves while caviar is roe that has been salted or "cured" and then placed in tins for storage and aging. In the and Canada, any product that is only labeled caviar must come from sturgeon roe. If it contains the roe from any other fish, such as whitefish, it must be labeled with the name of the fish, such as whitefish roe, salmon roe, carp roe, trout roe, etc. The roe of shellfish is also used. In Europe, however, the term caviar is reserved exclusively for the roe of sturgeon. Roe from other fish must be called caviar substitute.

Another note on Rørvik, the last recorded sighting of a sea serpent in Norway was made in 1926 by two boys fishing for mackerel on the northern side of Vikna, by Lysøya Island to the west of our route. The serpent was reported to be over 650 feet long and had 60 humps. Unfortunately, the boys did not bring a camera.

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Day 10 - Sat, 3/24: –  Port Arrival Departure MS Finnmarken, BLD Trondheim 6:30 AM 10:00 AM This morning we arrive in Trondheim, beautifully situated by Kristiansund 4:30 PM 5:00 PM the Trondheimsfjord. With the Nid River meandering through the city center, it is surrounded by water on all sides. NTNU is 9:00 PM 9:30 PM the hub of the Norway’s renowned research and educational community, which adds a youthful exuberance to this thousand year old city. Trondheim was founded by the Viking king, Olav Tryggvason in 997 and was the capital of Norway for 200 years. In 1152 the city became an archbishop's seat and the site the country's first school, the Cathedral School. After a catastrophic fire destroyed most of the city houses in 1681, the new streets were made wide to prevent fires from spreading. Contrasting with these wide boulevards are narrow alleys and streets originating in the Middle Ages that still exist throughout the city. This morning you can explore the city starting at the Old Town Bridge and following the path that heads south through the park next to the river Nid that leads to Cathedral. King Olav Haroldsson was canonized the patron saint of Norway in 1164 for work as a champion of Norwegian independence. Soon after the cathedral at Trondheim was built over his grave as a shrine and became a place of pilgrimage. Next to the cathedral is the Archbishop's Palace, which displays the Norwegian crown jewels and coronation regalia, armory and collection of paintings from Norwegian and Dutch artists ranging from the Düsseldorf School to Modernists. The path then brings you to Hadrian's place, in honor of Pope Adrian IV, the only Englishman to have occupied the papal throne who spent his years prior to his papal appointment in 1154 as archbishop of Trodenheim. Legend says a groundwater spring emerged, after Olav was buried at the site of in the year of 1030. Today the spring water is piped from the Cathedral to Hadrian’s Place, where there's a drinking fountain known as St. Olav’s well. The fountain is only in operation in warm months. The picturesque Gamle Bybru crosses to connect the town center to , Trondheim's old quarter dating to 1650. If you are not up for the ambitious uphill walk and back down to the pier, or would like more time to tour Nidaros Cathedral, you can join the optional excursion via bus with a stop at Nidaros Cathedral and viewing point Utsikten. + Nidaros Cathedral & Utsikten (Trondheim, $80, 2 hr, #11A) On the bus ride to Nidaros Cathedral, you will pass the sites of Trondheim, former Viking capital of Norway. The Nidaros Cathedral—with Norman, Roanesque and Gothic styles—towers over the town. Important features include the magnificent rose window and other beautiful stained glass from the 19th and 20th centuries, the long 70-foot nave, the patinated bronze alter with silver crucifix that was a gift from Americans with Norwegian heritage, and statues on the west front that portrays important Scandinavian saints. The ornate crowns of the king, queen and prince of Norway are also a popular attraction here. After the guided tour of the cathedral, the bus will continue to Utsikten, Norwegian for viewpoint, for a breathtaking panoramic view. Siting on four small islands, and a number of even smaller ones is Kristiansund, whose economy is founded on bacalao—dried salted cod, known locally as klippfisk. Exportaton of bacaloa traces back to the 17th century, mainly to the Mediterranean countries. Nicknamed the Polychrome City, as it was rebuilt from ruins after WWII with distinctive architecture, decorated in shades of red, yellow and green. The oldest opera house in Norway, built in Art Nouveau-style, was completed in 1914 and fortunately survived the bombing. This area also saw many battles during the Viking era, most famously was one was the Battle of Rastarkalv on the island of .

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We stop briefly at Molde, which boasts views of 222 snow peaks, where Viking King came ashore in 1035. Legend has it that from here he summoned all peasants of the area to thing, meaning assembly of free men. His father St. Olav had been fighting these peasants for a long time, but Magnus wanted peace and promised fairer laws and more freedom. A fire in 1916 and bombing in WWII left the original buildings in ruins. Today, rebuilt in simple, modern clean and functional post-war architecture of Scandanavia, Molde is called “The City of Roses” for its many lush, flowering rose gardens.

Day 11 - Sun, 3/25: Ålesund – Bergen Port Arrival Departure Clarion Admiral Hotel, Bergen Ålesund 12:30 AM 1:00 AM During the night, the ship will call at Ålesund, Torvik and Måløy. Torvik 2:15 AM 2:30 AM Ålesund is mostly known for its unique Art Nouveau architecture. After fire destroyed the town in 1904, in an act of Måloy 5:15 AM 5:45 AM genuine foresight, it was decided to rebuild the town Florø 7:45 AM 8:15 AM consistently in art nouveau, the fashionable style of the Bergen 2:30 PM time. Most of this beauty has been preserved. The name Ålesund emerged during the Sagas of . Torvik is a small village on the island Leinøya. The neighboring island, Runde, is known for its rich bird life, with 240 species observed. More than 500,000 birds nest here each year. Runde is also known as “Treasure Island.” A Dutch ship carrying 60,000 gold and silver coins sank here in 1725. The coins were salvaged by divers in 1972. Charming Måløy was originally founded as a trading center on this small island. As trade flourished, the town gradually moved to the larger island of Vågsøy, while keeping the name of the smaller island. This is the cause of some confusion, although the smaller island is today often known as Lisje-Måløyna (the smaller Måløy). Sailing from Måløy we will see the picturesque Nordfjord below the enormous Jostedal glacier, the largest glacier in continental Europe. Shipbuilding has been a stronghold in Florø for centuries. After the discovery of petroleum in the North Sea in the 1960s, Florø has been used as a supply base for the offshore industry. Fisherman here catch wild salmon, herring and mackerel for sale on the world market. A few nautical miles south of Florø we navigate the estuary of the mighty Sognefjord—the longest and best known fjord in Norway. National Geographic Traveler magazine has called this area "the world's most iconic destination." You also get the best views of the archipelago before our final stop in Bergen where we disembark. Our final destination is Bergen, an international city with small town charm surrounded by seven imposing mountains and the fjords. Here we disembark MS Finnmarken. The city offers the ideal combination of nature, culture, history and exhilarating city life. What's made Bergen famous is its unique charm, which is something you have to experience for yourself. After arriving at our hotel, enjoy strolling around the old streets and alleyways where people have lived for centuries. King Olav Kyrre founded Bergen in 1070 AD, and it became Norway’s first real capital in the 13th century. Bergen was a major European trading and seafaring port. It was one of the 's most important trading centers, making it the largest town in during the late middle ages and early modern period. Until the 1830s, Bergen was the biggest town in Norway. Today Bergen has a population of approximately 270,000. Trade and seafaring still play an important part in Bergen’s economy. Industry, trades, tourism, fisheries, and the oil and gas industry are other important sectors.

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Walking through UNESCO-listed Bryggen’s narrow alleyways, made even darker and more mysterious by overhanging balconies, feels like stepping back in time. Bryggen is not a museum but part of the cultural heritage that is still in use—a living historical area of the city. The Fløibanen Funicular is a very popular attraction that runs from the city center to the top of Mount Fløyen in about 7 minutes. From the viewing platform you can admire spectacular views of the city, mountains, and fjords. In addition to the wide range of hikes, you'll find a restaurant, café, souvenir shop and playground. The picturesque and lively Fish Market is one of Norway's most visited outdoors markets. Mingle with the crowds, enjoy some seafood, or just experience the atmosphere. Visit the Aquarium to see fish, penguins, sea lions and seals in their natural element. Take stroll to the old fortress at Bergenhus, or visit one of Bergen’s many museums and galleries. There are plenty of tempting shopping opportunities, from small and specialized shops to large department stores. Bergen also has a varied year-round entertainment scene that ranges from world-class musical and theatrical performances to exciting football matches. Enjoy a good meal and get a taste of the city’s nightlife on the final night of our trip. You'll find just about everything - from coffee bars, fish restaurants, and delicious international cuisine, to small arty cafés, discothèques, bars, and nightclubs. Choose according to your taste, appetite, mood and wallet. This afternoon you can join an optional sightseeing tour. + Bergen City Sightseeing (Bergen, $65, 2 hr, #12A) With a spectacular backdrop of seven mountains, Bergen is an international city with small-town charm. Enjoy a guided tour in the city’s picturesque alleyways and see famous sites such as the Bryggen wharf and the famous fish market. Enjoy a guided tour past the picturesque alleys and well-known locations such as the Nordnes Peninsula, Håkon’s Hall, and the Rosenkrantz Tower, Maria Church, Bergen harbor, and the famous fish market. The guide will also take you on a short walk through the UNESCO-listed old buildings in the Bryggen district and tell you about Bergen’s intriguing history and development, from its founding in 1070, right up to the present day.

Day 12 - Mon, 3/26: Bergen – USA/et.al. Bergen Clarion Hotel, B Today we say farewell to Norway and part ways…some home to USA, some on to other European destinations.

Trip Leaders Dr. Carolyn Sumners, Astronomer Dr. Carolyn Sumners is HMNS Vice President for Astronomy. She directs the Museum’s Burke Baker Planetarium, Expedition Center, and George Observatory. She has lead several Eclipse trips for the Museum, but this is her and the Museum’s first Northern Light trip. Dr. Dirk Van Tuerenhout, HMNS Curator of Anthropology Dr. Dirk Van Tuerenhout is curator of anthropology at the Houston Museum of Natural Science. He has curated numerous special exhibitions in his tenure including . He has escorted museum groups for HMNS to destinations across the globe. Amy Featherston Potts Amy Potts is director of Adult Education at the Houston Museum of Natural Science. She has produced and managed numerous Museum trips in her tenure.

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Hotels Storm Hotel, Reykjavík, Iceland Check in: 3/15/2018, Check out: 3/19/2018 (4 nights)

http://www.keahotels.is/en/hotels/storm-hotel Thorunnartun 4 105 Reykjavik, Iceland Tel. +354 518-3000 Email: [email protected]

Thon Hotel, Kirkenes, Norway Check in: 3/19/2018, Check out: 3/20/2018 (1 night)

https://www.thonhotels.com/our-hotels/norway/kirkenes/thon-hotel-kirkenes/ Johan Knudtzens gate 11, 9900 Kirkenes, Norway Tel. +47 78 97 10 50 Email: [email protected]

MS Finnmarken Check in: 3/20/2018, Check out: 3/25/2018 (5 nights) https://www.hurtigruten.us/our-ships/ms-finnmarken/ Tel. +47 48 03 40 00 Email: [email protected]

Clarion Admiral, Bergen, Norway Check in: 3/25/2018, Check out: 3/26/2018 (1 night) https://www.nordicchoicehotels.com/clarion/clarion-hotel- admiral/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=places&utm_campaign=gmb C. Sundts gate 95004 Bergen, Norway Phone: +47 55 23 64 00 Email: [email protected]

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