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One step beyond

Lofoten – a ski paradise like no other

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By EMMA HO LMQ VIST DEACO N Photos by CLÉMENT MO RIN Dream Gran Canaria’s Barranco de las Vacas is beginning to gain cultish appeal, courtesy of some recent social media exposure. We hit the mountains near Las Palmas in search of this natural wonder, discovering a string of magical places along the way.

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ravine

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arranco de las Vacas? Never heard of The bus stops at the top entrance of the 27-acre it.” After getting nowhere quizzing (10-hectare) garden, where a statue of the 18th centu- locals about this ravine – which ry botanist and scholar Don Jose Vieray Clavijo greets Las Palmas’ sprawling bears more than a passing resem- us. Behind him, majestic views across the mountains botanical garden, with blance to Arizona’s Antelope spread as far as the eye can see. The rustle of palm leaves over 500 types of Canyon, we start to think it might be in the wind, and the solemn call of a buzzard over our plants, has sweeping a myth, or an Instagram fabrication. heads adds to the soothing ambience. So far, so tre- views. “I’d never heard of this place either mendously relaxing, but we only have to amble a short until about a year ago when photos of it started pop- distance along the labyrinthine path before a warning Bping up on social media,” says Michelle Segura, a sign commands our attention. “We warn our visitors born and bred Canarian and graduate of the Univer- that you are entering a highly dangerous track. Enter sity of Las Palmas. “It’s so exotic-looking that I as- at your own risk.” sumed it must be located in the American Southwest, And one for the adrenaline junkie it is. Little did I not here on the island.” know I sufered from vertigo until I progressed like To fnd out if this highly photogenic spot really does a shaky-footed sloth down the unfenced zigzag steps exist, we set of on a road trip – or rather a convenient built into the side of the ravine. (Do take care and wear combined tour of bus rides, short taxi trips and an un- sturdy footwear!) forgettable two-hour mountain hike in and around the spectacular Guayadeque ravine-style valley. Easily accessible from Las Palmas, but thrillingly remote in feel, it stretches some 15km across the southeast sec- ‘It’s so exotic-looking that I tion of Gran Canaria. assumed it must be located Heading south from Las Palmas, whizzing past the in the American Southwest, beautiful harbor and into the mountains, we can’t resist a pit stop at the Botanical Garden of the Canaries, which not here on the island’ is partially set on the slopes of the Guiniguada ravine.

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Erik Ragnar Svensson – the late Swedish founder of Las Palmas’ botanical garden – immortalized in the place he so treasured.

Right: Sugar cube houses and olive trees – the little hamlet of Temisas produces the finest olive oil on the island.

Down at the bottom, the only sign of life – aside Be sure to state that you’d from some 500 types of plant species that thrive in like half portions or tapas- this expansive world of green growth – are chirping style servings, unless you birds and chirruping, pond-skating frogs. It’s in this lush, tranquil part of the garden that its founder Erik plan on feeding an army! Ragnar Svensson was laid to rest. His grave is hidden among the trees at the side of the path. Proving he’s not forgotten, 47 years after his death a fresh bouquet of fowers rests on his grave. Time for lunch – in a cave. ered in a tasty chili and garlic-infused sauce. (If, like Local specialties are FOLLOWING THE CARDIO-STYLE workout this won- us, you want to sample several dishes in one sitting, be served in Bar Restaurante Guayadeque. drous place has aforded us, we refuel with some much- sure to state that you’d like half portions or tapas-style needed cafeine in the resident restaurant. Next, we servings, unless you plan on feeding an army! The same continue south in the direction of the municipality of goes for most restaurants in and around Las Palmas.) Agüimes, located some 29km from Las Palmas, and a There are a couple of residential houses embedded in short car ride, or about an hour’s hike, from the Vacas the mountains, too. You’re allowed to step inside some ravine. The historic quarter of Agüimes, often described of these dinky dwellings, in which souvenirs and pots as an “open air museum,” has several centuries-old of honey from the region are lined up for sale. buildings of note, such as the Church of San Sebastian. Determined to weave a mountain trek into our Other places of curious architectural note are hid- adventure while also getting to experience more of ing in the mountains – and in the actual mountain wall the island, we take a taxi from Cueva Bermeja to the – some 6km away in Cueva Bermeja. Taking a seat with- little hamlet of Temisas in the Santa Lucia district. From in the cave-like setting of Bar Restaurante Guayadeque, here, we’re able to hit the S-40 mountain trail that will we eagerly devour local specialties such as jamon take us to Barranco de las Vacas, while the trail contin- serrano, chipirones (baby squid) and papas arrugadas – ues to the center of Agüimes, with the ravine located small potatoes boiled in extra salty water and smoth- roughly in the middle.

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The rugged beauty of the Guayadeque ravine.

‘It feels as if we’ve been teleported into some sort of Wild West movie’

Temisas is a gem in its own right, its white houses looming out of the distance like clusters of sugar cubes. We can’t resist a quick walk among them. A lady no- tices our arrival, curiously peering out from a window Step inside – a to the soundtrack of what we assume (and hope) is a cave house in garden goat. the valley of The streets are lined with olive trees – in fact, they’re Guayadeque, everywhere. It so happens that this little spot, surround- near the village of Agüimes. THIS WAY TO ed by ancient olive groves, has the oldest olive press still in use on the island, producing what’s considered to be LAS PALMAS its fnest oil. Temisas is also home to Gran Canaria’s astronomical observatory. SAS flies direct to Gran Canaria from Stockholm, As much as we enjoy the tranquility of this unique Oslo and Copenhagen and offers connecting flights hamlet, the siren call of Barranco de las Vacas is getting from other cities in Scandinavia. stronger. Turning back to locate the trail, we meet a man in his Sunday best – cobalt blue tailored trousers and a Earn points Use points Cash in points patterned shirt – and a lapdog by his side. He helpfully As a EuroBonus Book a round Relax in an SAS points us in the right direction and of we go. member, you trip from Scandi- Lounge when fly- Leaving the colony of white houses behind, we start earn points when navia to Gran ing SAS Go from our ascent. It feels as if we’ve been teleported into some you fly on SAS, Canaria from 3,000 points. sort of Wild West movie. Clouds of sandy, reddish earth Star Alliance and 30,000 points. form around our feet as we trample along the trail under partners. A round Taxes and fees the beating sun. Enormous fruit-bearing cacti spread trip to Gran apply from €30. out like a powerful, prickly army. Progressing down the Canaria will earn steep valley and up across the next elevation, we pass you up to 2,000 row after row of waist-high aloe plants – a super spe- points in SAS Go. cies the Canarians make sure to capitalize on. There are several shops in Las Palmas (and at the airport) Book your flight at flysas.com

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In search of the lost Vacas ravine.

Left: The Guayade- que ravine- style valley is home to an array of endemic flora and fauna.

Below: A pair of fellow ravine- seekers about t o enter the promised land – Barranco de las Vacas.

Bathed in the soft, early evening light, it looks even more extraordinary than on camera

dedicated solely to aloe products, cherished for its heal- ing properties. The dizzyingly beautiful Guayadeque terrain is home to an array of endemic plants and creatures. We keep our eyes peeled for a Gallotia stehlini lizard, a giant species that can reach 80cm in length. Alas, no sightings today.

EDGING CLOSER TO our fnal destination, we meet a young Portuguese couple asking for help in locating the somewhat hard-to-fnd Vacas ravine. There’s more than a hint of desperation in their voices as they’ve trav- eled from the far south of the island especially to see it. As we traipse down the trail leading to the tunnel under the bridge (we’ve been told to look out for this), another couple appears from the other direction. Beam- ing, they tell us to prepare for something “epic.” As the clock strikes 6pm, we’re privileged to be the only worshippers of this natural wonder. Bathed in the soft, early evening light, it looks even more extraordi- nary than on camera. The ravine’s curvaceous walls and linear rock patterns usher us forward seductively. It’s a soothing otherworldly experience – as if we’ve

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HOW TO GET THERE AND WHEN TO GO

Barranco de las Vacas (or Barranco de Barafonso, or even Tobas de Colores, as it’s also known by locals) is locat- ed in the southeast of Gran Canaria, between the villages of Agüimes and Temisas.

TRAVEL BY CAR Key in “Tobas de Colores Barranco de las Vacas” to get the most accurate spot on Google Maps – GC–551, 35260 Agüimes, Las Palmas. Drive to Agüimes and continue along highway GC-550 towards Temisas. As this is not a commercial tour- ist destination, there’s no entrance fee or official parking – aside from a small space for two or three cars at the road- side, about 20m from the stone bridge.

BY BUS FROM LAS PALMAS Travel to Agüimes or Temisas (buses to Agüimes are more fre- quent). From either of these vil- lages, hike along the trail In the womb of the otherworldly “Camino Agüimes S–40.” The Barranco de las Vacas. shorter trek is from Agüimes, which takes about an hour. The hike from Temisas takes be- been swallowed down into the belly of some alien yet tween 1.5 and 2 hours. benign organism. So what gives this ravine its remarkable appear- WHEN TO GO ance? Its distinctive rock formations are called Tobas Anytime. Gran Canaria is an de Colores, a striped efect also found in the famous Its manageable scale all-year-round destination due Antelope Canyon. Depending on the type of light it’s simply adds to its to its fabulously warm climate. exposed to, it shifts in color, from deep terracotta and therapeutic appeal The most fascinating part of amber to silvery beige. The curved shape of its walls, – it’s a difficult place Barranco de las Vacas is only meanwhile, has been formed by water fowing through about 50m long. Try to visit the volcanic rock. to leave early morning or late afternoon/ The most picturesque section of the ravine – the one early evening to increase your people come from afar to experience – is not sprawling chances of experiencing this by any means, measuring about 50m in length. But its natural wonder on your own – manageable scale simply adds to its therapeutic appeal – and getting the opportunity to it’s a difcult place to leave. The silence within is almost capture the moment for absolute, punctuated by the occasional soft echo of Instagram in peace. Most people futtering dove wings. These birds have set up nests in climb atop the big boulder in the the hollows of the rocks above. Barranco de las Vacas’ picturesque center of the ravine hypnotic charm clearly attracts wildlife, too. for their Insta-moment.

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