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Home , Argentine wine, Malbec

The International Review December 2006

Report #5 ’s Magnificent

Introduction In This Issue Over the last decade, Argentina has experienced a veritable wine revolution. Led by a group of highly dedicated producers, Argentina has begun producing of exceptional qual- The Tasting 3 ity and value. This transition has not taken place easily, nor is it complete, but outside of Australia, Argentina can lay claim Malbec and Mendoza 3 to producing some of the best wine values, and best quality Malbec: The 5 wines in the new world. Although this country is making fine wines from a number of grape varieties, the catalyst behind its Malbec in the 5 recent success, and its most unique selling position, is the grape known as Malbec. 9 The Industry 10 While Malbec is the principal grape in the French AOC , it is the nearly forgotten grape of . Malbec was once The Export Market 12 an important blending component there along with and , but classified growth Bordeaux contains Marvelous Malbec and Food 13 very little of it today. The decline of Malbec in Bordeaux first Tasting Notes and Ratings: 14 began when struck in late 19th century; however, it was the great frost of 1956 that dealt the final blow. Nearly 75% Malbec Wines By Rating and Pricing 29 of all the Malbec in the Medoc was destroyed. Growers subse- quently began replacing Malbec with other Bordeaux , Annex 33 forever relegating it to the role of minor blending grape. References and Further Reading MAP: Mendoza and Surroundings Continued on page 3

 In Argentina, by contrast, Malbec reigns supreme and Cabernet Acknowledgements Sauvignon, the usually dominant international powerhouse grape, takes a secondary role. Malbec has emerged as the We wish to thank Donald Winkler, Director of Education for single most important grape for both quality and quantity wine the International Wine Review, for his outstanding contribu- production. It thrives in the dry high plains desert climate of tions to the research and preparation of this report. Don, along Mendoza, located on the eastern edge of the Mountain with Mike Potashnik, visited Mendoza this past September and range. Here Malbec seemingly reaches its full potential, yielding helped produce various drafts of this report. wines of tremendous color, flavor, fruit, and finesse. We owe a great deal of gratitude to the many winemakers and In this, our 5th report, the International Wine Review charts the viticulturalists in Argentina who graciously shared with us their ascendancy of Malbec in Argentina, and assesses the quality knowledge and expertise of Malbec. We also wish to thank Paul and value of the wines being produced today. We will outline Hobbs, Patrick Campbell, Laura Catena, Alejandro Sejanovich, the factors transforming Argentina’s wine industry, and look at and Alfredo Bartholomaus for sharing their invaluable insight, the prospects for the future. We will look at the unique charac- and knowledge. teristics of Malbec, and how it has adapted to the desert-like conditions in Mendoza, and the surrounding areas. We will ex- In addition, we wish to thank Ariel Menniti, Director of Wines of amine the importance of irrigation and impact of high altitude Argentina in Mendoza, for his help in obtaining wine samples on wine quality; and we will look at how winemakers for our tastings and in arranging our visit to Mendoza this past are handling this grape in the . September. We also wish to thank Roberto Salafia,Minister, Embassy of Argentina in , DC. for his assistance in Argentine Malbec has already established a reputation for value contacting importers and arranging Embassy tastings. wine here in the U.S, but will it gain entry into the elite ranks of the world’s most sought after wines? Based on our compre- Many importers and distributors also provided wines for our hensive tastings, we believe it will. Producers such as Catena, tasting and we wish to thank them collectively. They are also Achával-Ferrer, Andeluna, Pascual Toso, , referred to along with contact information in the tasting notes. , O. Fournier, Monteviejo, Sophenia, Viña Cobos, and many others are making a strong case for Argentine Malbec Finally, we wish to thank the members of the I-WineReview being considered as one of the most important grape varieties, tasting panel and guests: Jim Arseneault, Michael Flynn, Don and styles of wine to emerge from the new world. Winkler, Tony Quinn, and Roy Wagner for their help in organiz- ing and conducting our tastings.

Jay Youmans, MW Michael Potashnik, Ph. D Publishers, International Wine Review

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 The Tasting Malbec and Mendoza

Based on our tastings of over 150 , we found a number Mendoza has become virtually synonymous with Malbec. Ac- of stunning high-quality wines offering phenomenal value. cording to the the Instiuto Nacional de Vitivinicultura, in 2005, Numerous wines at or under $10 scored above 85 points and 84% of Argentina’s Malbec was planted in Mendoza. There are higher, but the following wines scored 90 points or higher: Cat- over 18,000 ha (45,000 acres) of Malbec currently under vine in ena Zapata 2005 Alamos Malbec ($10) 90 points, Doña Pau- Mendoza. According to a recent report in by Tim Atkin la 2005 Los Cardos Malbec Mendoza ($9) 90 points, Kaiken MW, Malbec plantings over the last decade have increased by 2004 Malbec Mendoza ($10) 90 points, Pascual Toso 2004 56%. Malbec is grown in other parts of Argentina, particularly Malbec ($10) 90 points, and Sophenia 2005 Alosur Malbec in the provinces of San Juan, , La , Neuquen, and Rio Mendoza ($10) 90 points. These wines represent some of the Negro, but the next largest region compared to Mendoza is San best wine values available anywhere in the world today. Juan with only 1,830 ha (4510 acres)

For a few dollars more you can find several moderately priced San Juan is the province located immediately to the north of wines from $11-$15 that also scored 90 points or higher. Mendoza, where it is hot and dry, with lower altitude vine- These include: Carlos Pulenta 2004 Corte C Vistalba ($11) yards than Mendoza. The Malbec produced here tends to be 90 points, 2005 Malbec Reserva Mendoza ($12) 90 points, straightforward, and inexpensive, but offers good value. Salta Koch 2004 Piatteli Malbec Mendoza ($13) 90 points, lies several hundred kilometers farther north of Mendoza and Trapiche 2004 Broquel Malbec ($14) 90 points, and has a reputation for high- quality Malbec, especially in Cafayete Sophenia 2004 Malbec Mendoza ($15) 91 points. and the Colchaqui Valley. Salta lays claim to having the world’s highest altitude vineyard at Bodega Colomé, at just over 3,100 Argentina is producing much more than just value wines. We meters. In our tasting report, we assess wines from each of found a number of Malbecs that rank among the world’s finest these regions. wines at any price, in particular, the following: Achaval-Ferrer 2004 Finca Mirador Mendoza ($80) 94 points, Achaval-- Mendoza itself is a large wine producing area, divided into 17 rer 2004 Finca Altamira Mendoza ($80) 95 points, Catena departments. Each department may contain several regions, or Zapata 2003 Catena Alta Malbec Mendoza ($45) 94 points, districts. Increasingly, quality Malbec producers are identifying 2004 Cuvelier de los Andes Mendoza ($NA) 94 points, Fabre the sources of the on their back labels. The multiplicity Montmayou 2005 Gran Reserva Malbec Mendoza ($20) 93 of political units and regional names (e.g., Valle de Uco) that cut points, Felipe Rutini 2004 Apartado ($50) 93 points, Noemia across those units, the lack of official designations, de 2004 Patagonia Malbec ($100) 93 points, Ter- and the inconsistent use of geographic names serve only to razas de los Andes 2004 Cheval des Andes ($60) 94 points, confuse the consumer, however. and the oustanding Viña Cobos 2003 Cobos Mendoza ($110) 97 points. The tasting ntoes and ratings for all the wines begin There are essentially 5 different areas within Mendoza: Central, on page 15. East, North, South (San Rafael), and the . The Central zone produces the highest quality Malbec within Mendoza. The East zone is the largest area, but it is very hot and most of the wines are of average quality, as are the wines of the North region. The Malbec of the South is improving steadily, but rarely matches the quality of the Central zone. The most exciting new area for quality is the Uco Valley. Keep an eye on this part of Mendoza. Explanations of the geographic designations most commonly used on Argentine wine labels are given in the box below. A map of Mendoza and surrounding areas appears in the Annex.

 Tasting Notes and Ratings: Tasting Principles and Procedures Achával-Ferrer 2004 Quimira Mendoza ($50) 92 Achával-Ferrer 2004 Finca Mirador Mendoza ($110) 94 The i-WineReview uses a Tasting Panel to Achával-Ferrer 2004 Finca Altamira Mendoza ($110) 95 conduct tastings for its bi-monthly reports. The Tasting Panel consists of a core team Santiago Achával, co-owner and winemaker of Achaval Ferrer of skilled and experienced professional winery, is passionate about Malbec and is producing some of tasters. Wines are always tasted blind using the finest wines in Argentina today. His old vines and single the 100 point system. The wines reviewed vineyard Malbecs are in great demand, despite their hefty price, are obtained from producers, importers and and are rapidly gaining cult status among consumers in the distributors; they are also purchased. Bottles know. All Achaval-Ferrer wines are made from low-yielding are bagged and coded. A tasting session meticulously managed that are producing as little usually consists of 40 to 50 wines. Wines are as 1 ton per acre. Although harvested as much as 2-3 weeks organized in flights with their peers (mainly before other producers, Achaval-Ferrer wines exhibit ripe and by variety, region, and suggested retail price) complex fruit flavors, good acidity, and outstanding balance. whenever possible. The final ratings for each The 2004 Quimira is a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvi- wine are based on the aggregate numbers gnon and . It exhibits a dark opaque red purple from the panel. . The tasting notes for each color, rich dark fruit aromas, and a palate of ripe and elegant wine are written by the Publishers from the black fruit flavors with a touch of spice. The wine is also beauti- Tasting Panel’s evaluations. Wines that score fully balanced and offers a long satisfying finish. The2004 Finca below 85 points are not included in reports. Mirador is produced from 60-65 year old vines. It offers a dark opaque color with ripe dense and highly extracted black fruit Whenever possible, our tasting notes include flavors with a touch of leather, earth and minerals. Aged in new information on a producer’s website and the French for 12 months, the wood is beautifully integrated website of the importer or distributor who and the wine finishes complex and bewildering. The2004 provides us the wine for review. The wines Finca Altamira is another vineyard designated wine and is reviewed are generally available for purchase produced in the same manner as Finca Mirador. However, Finca at retail wine shops, especially at various Altamira situated at 3,400 ft, offers superb fruit that contributes Recommended Retailers. However, because to the wines intense core of blackberry fruit and dark chocolate of their limited production and distribution, flavors. It has a sense of minerality and its silky elegant mouth you may need to contact the producer or feel and texture, provide a wine of extraordinary balance. Un- distributor for information on the availability fortunately, Achaval-Ferrer wines are in short supply so you may of some wines. have to scout around. Winery website: www.achaval-ferrer.com Importer: TGIC Imports, Woodland Hills, CA. www.tigc.com

Alta Vista 2004 Malbec Premium Mendoza ($12) 86 Alta Vista 2004 Malbec Grande Reserve Selection Mendoza ($20) 90

Alta Vista currently belongs to the EDONIA group, a French fam- ily enterprise which owns other in France and Hungary. However it was started in 1997 by the late Jean-Michel Arcaute of Pomerol’s Chateau Clinet. The entry level 2004 Malbec Premium displays a muted nose, moderate blueberry and dark cherry fruit on the palate, and a rustic tannic finish. The higher quality 2004 Alta Vista Malbec Grande Reserve exhibits a dark ruby color, ripe fruit aromas and a rich highly extracted fruit filled palate of blackberry pie and chocolate. Nicely bal- anced with a silky texture, this wine, aged in small French oak casks for twelve months, finishes clean with a big tannic finish. Winery website: www.altavistawines.com

14 Malbec Wines By Rating and Pricing

Wines Up to $15 (The Best Value)

Producer Name of Wine Price Rating Cantena Zapata 2005 Alamos 10 91 Trapiche 2004 Broquel 14 90 Doña Paula 2005 Los Cardos 10 90 Kaiken 2004 Malbec 10 90 Pascual Toso 2004 Malbec 10 90 Sophenia 2005 Altosur 10 90 Carlos Pulenta 2004 Corte C Vistalba 12 90 Flichman 2005 Malbec Reserva 12 90 Koch 2004 Piattelli Vineyards Malbec 13 90 Callia 2004 Magna Malbec-Merlot 14 90 Sophenia 2004 Malbec 15 90 Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón 2005 Don Miguel Gascón 11 89 Trivento 2004 Select 12 89 Navarro Correas 2004 Colección Privada 13 89 Antis Winery 2003 Malbec 14 89 Domaine Vistalba 2004 Fabre Montmayou Malbec 14 89 Caro 2005 Amancaya 15 89 O. Fournier 2003 Urban Uco 8 88 Familia Schroeder 2004 Saurus 10 88 Huarpe 2004 Lancatay Malbec 10 88 Terrazas de los Andes 2005 Malbec 10 88 Budini 2004 Budini 11 88 Luigi Bosca 2004 Finca La Linda 11 88 Trapiche 2004 Oak Cask 11 88 Dolium 2004 Malbec 12 88 Familia Schroeder 2004 Saurus Patagonia Select 15 88 Fin del Mundo 2003 Malbec Reserva 15 88 Lurton 2004 Malbec 7 87 Flichman 2005 Malbec 8 87 Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón 2004 High Altitude Malbec / 9 87 Felix Lavaque 2004 Quara 9 87 Rutini 2005 Trumpeter 9 87 Viña Fundación de Mendoza S.A. 2006 Malbec 9 87 El Portillo Elevado 2006 Rose 10 87 Gouguenheim Winery 2004 Estaciones del Valle Otono 10 87 Larguia 2002 Amor de los Andes 10 87 Lurton 2003 Malbec Reserva 10 87 Obvio 2004 Obvio 10 87 Sophenia 2005 Altosur Rose 10 87 Laurel Glen 2003 Terra Rosa 11 87 Simonassi 2004 Malbec 11 87 El Portillo Elevado 2004 Malbec 13 87 Grafigna 2005 Malbec 13 87

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