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PLUS THE INTERNET WARS: BE AFRAID. BE VERY AFRAID

Fen Hampson and Derek Burney on Iran: Talk alone is not enough Lloyd Axworthy and Allan Rock: R2P versus Syria Flora MacDonald: indefatigable Red Tory

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Volume 23, Number 4 PUBLISHER Donna Jacobs ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Neil Reynolds EDITOR Table of Jennifer Campbell ART DIRECTOR Paul Cavanaugh BOOKS EDITOR CONTENTS George Fetherling CONTRIBUTING EDITOR DIPLOMATICA| Don Cayo CULTURE EDITOR Verbatim: Political cartoons from around the world...... 8 Margo Roston Fen Hampson and Gordon Smith on upcoming internet wars...... 12 CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Wael Aboul Magd Debate: R2P’s role — or absence — in Syria ...... 14 Lloyd Axworthy Notes from the field: Making safer stoves in Guatemala...... 18 Liz Ballantyne-Jackson Derek Burney Good deeds: Ukraine helps make a dream come true ...... 19 Philip Buxo Diplomatic Agenda: Israel’s innovative ways ...... 20 Wolfgang Depner Margaret Dickenson Questions Asked: Irrepressible octogenarian Flora MacDonald.....22 Charles Emmerson Else Berit Eikeland Trade Winds: Trinidad and Tobago, Egypt and Bulgaria on trade ....27 Helen Forsey Fen Osler Hampson DISPATCHES| Zlati Katzarski Laura Neilson Bonikowsky Special report/The Great White North Farid Shafiyev As the North opens up, there are risks and opportunities...... 30 Gordon S. Smith Jessie Reynolds The politics of claims: Who owns what?...... 38 Allan Rock The eight Arctic countries ...... 39 Pieter Van den Weghe Miriam Ziv Norway and Russia’s historic deal...... 48 CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Ulle Baum The politics of gender Larry Dickenson Sgt. Ronald Duchesne The world’s most powerful women...... 52 Sam Garcia Danilo Velasquez Dyanne Wilson DELIGHTS| BUSINESS MANAGEMENT Books: Island prisons, the Congo and the Berlin Wall ...... 60 Jessie Reynolds WEBMASTER Entertaining: Argentina’s carnivorous cuisine...... 66 Gilles Laberge, www.redrocket.ca Canadiana: Eugene Forsey’s legacy...... 69 PUBLISHER EMERITUS Lezlee Cribb Residences: France’s fabulous abode...... 70 ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Fly day: An album of memories ...... 76 Contact Donna Jacobs [email protected] Envoy’s album...... 78 SUBSCRIPTIONS National days listing ...... 81 Diplomat & International Canada is published four times a year. Subscription rates: individual, one year Wine: Our writer expands to other offerings ...... 85 $35.70. For Canadian orders add 13 per cent HST. U.S. orders please add $15 for postage. All other orders please add $25. DIGNITARIES| SUBMISSIONS New arrivals in the diplomatic corps ...... 82 Diplomat & International Canada welcomes submissions. Contact Jennifer Campbell, editor, at [email protected] or (613) 231-8476. DIPLOMATIC LISTINGS ...... 87 PRINTER Diplomat & International Canada is printed by Dollco The Lowe Martin DESTINATIONS| Group. Azerbaijan’s abundant attractions ...... 92 DIPLOMAT & INTERNATIONAL CANADA The Emerald Isle’s unrelenting charm...... 96 P.O Box 1173, Station B Ottawa, Ontario Canada K1P 5R2 Phone: (613) 422-5262 E-mail: [email protected] ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material. www.diplomatonline.com No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the pub- Published by lisher. © 2007 ISSN 1190-8343 Publication Mail # 40957514. Return undeliverable Canadian copies to: Sparrow House Enterprises Inc. Diplomat Magazine, P.O. Box 1173, Station B, Ottawa, ON K1P 5R2 THE VIEWS EXPRESSED IN THE ARTICLES ARE THOSE OF THE AUTHORS.

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everything from resource development — CONTRIBUTORS mining, fishing and oil — to the impact of climate change on the North, its people Lloyd Axworthy and its wildlife. It assesses the great risks and the great potential rewards. Further along in the section, writer Laura Neilson Bonikowsky offers a primer on the terri- tory, interests and resources of each of the eight Arctic nations.

JENNIFER CAMPBELL Also in our Dispatches section, we pres- ent our regular Top-10 feature, this time the world’s most powerful women, how they Arctic ambitions got there and how they perform their jobs. Lloyd Axworthy is president and vice- We also offer a list of powerful women chancellor of the University of Winni- from the past. peg. Prior to this appointment, he was n his summer tour to Canada’s Up front, columnist Fen Hampson director and CEO of the Liu Institute North, Prime Minister Stephen teamed up with his colleague and former for Global Issues at the University OHarper announced that Leona Ag- Canadian ambassador to the U.S., Derek of British Columbia. He served as lukkaq will chair the Arctic Council when Burney, to pen a piece that applauds Canada’s foreign minister from 1995 Canada takes the reins from Sweden in Canada’s move to sever diplomatic ties to 2000 and became internationally May 2013 for a two-year term. During the with Iran. In a second piece, Dr. Hampson known for his advancement of the Ot- same trip, Mr. Harper called the resources worked with colleague Gordon S. Smith tawa Treaty, a landmark global treaty of Canada’s three northern territories part on a column about a meeting in Dubai at banning anti-personnel landmines. of “that great national dream” and told which Russia, Brazil, China and India will His book Navigating a New World — reporters in the Yukon that they “ain’t seen make the case to bring the internet under Canada’s Global Future was published nothing yet in terms of what’s coming in the control of the United Nations. by Knopf Canada in the fall of 2003. the next decade.” We also have an essay by the godfathers Canada’s chairmanship of the multilat- of the United Nations’ Responsibility to Pro- Allan Rock eral forum — which, among other things, tect doctrine. Former foreign minister Lloyd facilitates co-operation between Arctic Axworthy and former UN Ambassador states and moderates the debate about who Allan Rock discuss where R2P fits in to the owns what — comes at a critical time. Mr. bloodshed in Syria and the gridlock over Harper isn’t the only leader set on exploit- what to do with, or about, Bashar al-Assad. ing Arctic resources. All eight member Books editor George Fetherling takes nations have similar ambitions, and some us to several of the world’s prisons located other countries, which have no territorial on isolated islands. Food writer Margaret claims whatsoever, do as well. China, for Dickenson presents the food of Argentina, example, has a strong interest in potential complete with a recipe for chimichurri Allan Rock is president of the Uni- shipping routes through Arctic territory sauce to brighten up your next beef dish. versity of Ottawa, one of Canada’s and its officials have stated that no country In our residences feature, writer Margo leading research universities. A 1971 has sovereignty in the North, that the Arc- Roston and photographer Dyanne Wilson graduate of the university’s faculty of tic belongs to “all people.” take us on a tour of one of the city’s most law, he practised for more than two Interesting times indeed. To that end, elegant, that of the French ambassador. decades as a trial lawyer in Toronto. Diplomat presents a comprehensive pack- In our travel section, Azerbaijani Am- He was elected to Parliament in 1993 age on the issues, beginning with excerpts bassador Farid Shafiyev tells of his coun- and spent 10 years in Prime Minister from a report entitled Arctic Opening: try’s treasures, while Jessie Reynolds Jean Chrétien’s cabinet as minister of Opportunity and Risk in the High North. reports her impressions of Ireland. justice and attorney general, minister Produced by Lloyd’s of London and the of health and minister of industry. Chatham House think tank, it looks at Jennifer Campbell is Diplomat’s editor. In 2003, he was appointed Canadian ambassador to the United Nations in New York. Mr. Rock joined the Uni- versity of Ottawa in 2008. The board UP FRONT of governors recently extended his mandate until 2016. The Russian Icebreaker MV Grigoriy Mikheev travels through Scoresby- sund in eastern Greenland. Our cover package on the opening of the Arctic begins on page 31 with a Lloyd’s of London and Chatham House report about the new world order, from the top of the globe, down. DREAMSTIME

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Political commentary from around the world

“Are You Better Off?” by Christopher Weyan, The Hill, U.S. “Kofi Annan the Dove” by Christo Komarnitski, Bulgaria

“Imaginary Obama” by Nate Beeler, The Columbus Dispatch, U.S. “Obama and Romney scrawling” by Riber Hansson, Sweden

8 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC CaRtOONs|DIPLOMATICA

“Putin Forever” by Arcadio Esquivel, La Prensa, Panama “Assad Attacked” by Patrick Chappatte, The International Herald Tribune.

“Syrian refugee crisis” by Paresh Nath, The Khaleej Times, UAE “Obama and the Economy” by Patrick Chappatte, Le Temps, Switzerland

“Journalism Censorship” by Pavel Constantin, Romania “Melting faster” by Olle Johansson, Sweden

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“Mursi of Egypt” by Emad Hajjaj, Jordan

“Labour Day Cookout” by Rick McKee, The Augusta Chronicle, U.S.

“Key” by Pavel Constantin, Romania

“Assad’s Support” by Osama Hajjaj, Abu Mahjoob Creative Productions

“Euro in danger” by Kap, La Vanguardia, Spain. “’Fireball' Obama” by John Cole, The Scranton Times-Tribune, U.S.

10 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC iRaN|DIPLOMATICA

Canada’s principled move in Iran By Derek Burney and Fen Osler Hampson

ohn Baird’s surprise decision to pull build at Arak is yet another instance of the plug on diplomatic relations with Iran’s deception. JIran is one that was long overdue. But Iran is also a well-known sponsor of it is a principled decision against a pariah terrorist attacks in other countries, includ- regime that sends the simple message: ing by its proxies such as Lebanon-based Enough is enough. Hezbollah. It has carried out assassina- The fact that Baird made the announce- tions abroad against prominent critics of ment on his way to Vladivostok just its regime. It is trying to destabilize Turkey before the APEC summit struck some as through its support for the PKK (Kurd- impulsive and has prompted widespread istan Workers Party). There has been a speculation that Canada has received major upsurge in attacks by the PKK secret warnings about an impending in those provinces where there are large Israeli attack on Iran. An attack may be Kurdish communities. Iran’s unflinching imminent, given Prime Minister Benjamin support for Bashar al-Assad, the ruthless Netanyahu’s publicly expressed fears despot of Syria, shows that it plays for about a fast-closing window to halt Iran’s keeps and doesn’t give a fig about hu- nuclear ambitions. But it is unlikely Israel man rights and basic liberties. This alone would share its strategic intentions with should give pause to those who assert us, notwithstanding Ottawa’s close ties we must still maintain ties with Tehran. with Jerusalem. It would have little to gain To what end or purpose and according to by doing so. what principle? Still, Baird may be shrewd enough to We also tend to forget that the “great see the writing on the wall and the risk The great awakening against Islamic despots awakening” against the despots of the posed to our diplomats as tougher sanc- began – but was still-born — after Mahmoud Islamic world began, but was stillborn, tions take another bite out of a regime that Ahmadinejad’s disrupted election. in the streets of Tehran in 2009 and 2010, has flaunted every accepted norm and following President Ahmadinejad’s dis- principle of civilized nations, including consistently had the door slammed in rupted election. When those streets ran the principle of diplomatic immunity. their faces when they tried to act on behalf red with the blood of Iran’s youth and Iran’s ayatollahs threw such diplo- of Canadians who ran afoul of the regime. others who had courageously risen up matic niceties aside a long time ago when, The simple message to all expats must against the regime, the West could have at their instigation, student protesters be: “Don’t go back. Your lives may be at done more to support Iran’s champions stormed the American embassy in Tehran risk.” And those who parlay the old saw of freedom, human rights and democracy. and kept U.S. diplomats hostage in a saga that Canada can play the “honest broker” This Iranian regime flouts all basic that sealed the fate of the Carter presi- between Tehran and Washington are Little principles of diplomacy and human dency. Their contempt for diplomacy was Red Riding Hoods. Think Chamberlain rights. It deserves to be isolated and sanc- reaffirmed when a mob of “students” at- at Munich, not Pearson at the UN, on this tioned. Canada has little leverage on the tacked the British embassy and diplomatic one. security concerns, which are most acute, compound at Gulhak Garden last Novem- There is a time to talk and a time to be but our decision to suspend diplomatic ber and all its leaders could summon was tough. This is a time to be tough. That is relations is correct in principle and more phoney expressions of “regret.” because talk with Iran’s regime has been powerful than hand-wringing. Those who Canada’s relations with Tehran have cheapened by its constant prevarications cherish the values we live by at home been on the skids for a long time. Its and deceptions. should applaud actions that respect those leaders showed no remorse for the brutal There is every indication that Iran has values. Talk alone is just that. murder of the Iranian-born Canadian been secretly smuggling uranium and journalist Zahra Kazemi. Tehran has con- centrifuge technology to produce enough Fen Osler Hampson is Distinguished Fel- sistently refused to recognize Canadian weapons-grade fissile material to build a low and Director of Global Security at passports held by those who are Iranian bomb. The IAEA has sounded the tocsin the Centre for International Governance born. more than once that Iran is not com- Innovation (CIGI) and Chancellor’s The argument by some that Ottawa ing clean when its inspectors try to look Professor at Carleton University. Derek should maintain its diplomatic presence under the hood. The arrest last month Burney is Canada’s former ambassador so that it can serve the interests of Iranian in Germany of four individuals charged to the U.S. and senior strategic adviser to Canadians when they travel to Iran holds with smuggling special valves for a heavy- law firm Norton Rose. With thanks to no water. Our diplomats in Tehran have water reactor the Iranians are trying to iPolitics, where this article first appeared.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 11 DIPLOMATICA|FOREigN aFFaiRs

Internet wars

By Fen Osler Hampson and Gordon S. Smith

t the end of the year, the nations

of the world will convene at the DREAMSTIME AGulf port city of Dubai to renego- Russia, China, India and Brazil want to bring the internet under the control of the United Nations. tiate key provisions of the International Telecommunications Regulations (ITR), a UN treaty that governs the use of the Keith B. Alexander, who heads the Penta- operate sites where “free” movies and airwaves, but not the internet. It is already gon’s National Security Agency (NSA), re- songs can be uploaded; political activists; shaping up to be a battle royal because cently implored hackers to work together the champions of free speech who popu- some countries, including Brazil, China, with government to promote a safer and late the academic and legal communities; India and Russia, want to bring the in- more secure internet. business and commercial interests of ev- ternet under the control of the United The internet is also caught up in global ery stripe and variety who ply their wares Nations. They are opposed by the United equity wars between the industrialized on the internet, including banks and credit States and many — though not all — and developing nations and fast-growing card companies; hackers who challenge Western nations that tend to favour the emerging economies of the south. Led by computer security systems for a variety of status quo and a liberal, multi-stakeholder Russia, China and India, some countries good and bad reasons; criminal elements regime that is generally free of greater want to be able to directly tax internet who exploit the internet for their own state control. service providers and users to generate shady ends; law enforcement agencies; The issues on the table are complex, the revenues they claim they need to make and ordinary citizens who have real con- but they boil down to the following: (1) the internet more widely available to their cerns about their personal safety and right granting states new powers of taxation own people. But there is also a hidden to privacy when they go online. over internet usage; (2) issues of privacy purpose behind this quest for greater state Many of these interests were mobi- and whether governments should play a control. Spooked by the “great awaken- lized in the so-called SOPA wars in the greater role in surveillance and monitor- ing” that has swept much of the Arab U.S., which marked Round One in the ing of the internet by acquiring access to World, authoritarian regimes view the current battle for the internet. The Stop the real names and identities of online internet and mobile technology as a real Online Piracy Act of the U.S. Congress users; and (3) transferring management threat to their own political survival, not was an ill-fated attempt to lower the boom authority for the internet from ICANN least because of the extraordinary powers on internet piracy that cost Hollywood (the Internet Corporation for Assigned of political mobilization available to dis- studios and the song-writing industry Names and Numbers) — a private, multi- sidents through these new technologies. dearly. Congress retreated by shelving the stakeholder body that currently oversees The battle for control over the internet legislation, not least because the U.S. is in the use and operations of the internet by, in Dubai is likely to be a prolonged one an election year. The highly successful lob- for example, co-ordinating the assign- and will not end with the meeting in De- bying campaign against the legislation by ment of internet domain names and user cember. Although the main protagonists technology companies, which harnessed protocols — to the ITU (International in Dubai are nation-states, they are not the power of social media and a public Telecommunication Union) or a new inter- the only actors or interests in this global blackout, was too much for Washington’s governmental authority. e-drama. Others include the major internet skittish political class to bear. Internet security is also a major chal- providers (the top 20 companies that field Canada is not immune to these battles. lenge. There is a rapidly growing risk that 90 percent of the world’s internet traffic); Bill C-11 (the Copyright Modernization individuals affiliated with Anonymous movie studios, songwriters, publishers Act) is the federal government’s latest (or others) could launch truly devastating and other producers of artistic or intel- attempt to bring Canada’s copyright pro- attacks triggered by the World Conference lectual content that can be exchanged and tection laws in line with those of the rest on International Telecommunications in downloaded on the internet; technology of the industrialized world. It has come Dubai (or some other perceived grievance) companies such as Google, AOL, eBay, under similar attack by two groups. One to shut the entire internet down. Such is and Twitter, ad brokers and other interme- champions adoption of the mantle of “free the fear of government officials that Gen. diaries who do business with those who internet” speech. The other is concerned

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about the wider ramifications of digital ment and a corresponding increase in property is a fundamental one in a free locks, and campaigns against Canada legitimate sales. and just society and that right must be updating its laws, notwithstanding that Or take the example of Kim Dotcom, respected, even on the internet. Those who Canada is a haven for digital piracy. the founder of Megaupload, one of the have invested their sweat and tears in acts Canada’s outdated laws have not world’s biggest illegal cyberlockers, who of artistic and literary creation should be been changed since 1996 to deal with the was arrested in New Zealand by law en- allowed to enjoy the full fruits of their protection of copyrighted works in the forcement officials just as Congress was labours. internet environment. Our reputation for beating a hasty retreat on SOPA. The fact The internet, like any other market- lax laws is the same among the pirates as that some individuals will always try to place for goods, services and ideas, can- among our major trading partners — the break the law is not a good reason not to not be a lawless place if it is to function U.S., EU, among others. Isohunt, for ex- have laws to deter and punish criminals. effectively. Like the Wild West, it, too, will ample, has long bragged about its ability At the end of the day, however, we all have to be tamed, not necessarily by giv- to carry on business in Canada. have an interest in promoting an inter- ing states and international organizations The internet is one place where tech- net that works for everyone involved in greater powers, but by looking at ways nological advancements will always be its ecosystem. As individuals, we want to strengthen the present system of multi- 10 steps ahead of the regulators and those governments to respect the right to pri- stakeholder governance. The goal here is who favour controls. But the notion that vacy when we go online. But that right is an internet more reliable and less prone the “internet pirates will always win,” not an absolute one. It should not allow to disruptions (deliberate or inadvertent), as argued by New York Times writer Nick sexual predators and those with criminal more neutral, more global, and more open Bilton, does not withstand close scrutiny. interests to go online and prey on innocent but also more respectful of the individual, Some countries, like France, have success- children or steal from the unsuspecting, property rights and the basic rule of law. fully introduced laws to deter counterfeit- the elderly, or the just plain naïve. ers and penalize those who illegally share We also do not want to give despots the Fen Osler Hampson is Distinguished Fel- files in an attempt to move them away power to control the flow of communica- low and Director of Global Security at from illegitimate sources and towards le- tions in cyberspace by giving them the the Centre for International Governance gitimate online sites and services. Several authority to restrict freedom of expression Innovation (CIGI) and Chancellor’s Pro- studies on the impact of France’s “three and access to information or to deny their fessor at Carleton University. Gordon S. strikes” anti-piracy law, which has cut citizens the right to congregate and mobi- Smith is a Distinguished Fellow at CIGI internet piracy in half, have demonstrated lize in cyberspace. and Canada’s former deputy minister of a significant reduction in online infringe- We should not forget that the right to Foreign Affairs.

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A reflection on responsibility: What does Syria mean for R2P? By Lloyd Axworthy and Allan Rock MANYUA AVID AVID UN PHOTO/ D

Smoke drifts into the sky from buildings and houses hit by shelling in Homs, Syria, in June.

he world has watched in frustration after Bosnia, after Kosovo, that the in- reckoned with” and any military interven- as the brutal regime of Bashar al- ternational community would no longer tion would surely be long and costly in TAssad of Syria has turned its weap- stand by and witness mass atrocity in- lives and treasure. ons against its own citizens to suppress flicted by states against their own people? But the council’s failure to invoke even an insurgency and cling to power. The Did we not decide collectively that if a the spirit of Responsibility to Protect (R2P) shocking estimates of civilian casualties state’s government fails in its most fun- in Syria — Russia and China went so far (some as high as 20,000) don’t measure the damental responsibility to protect its as to veto sanctions under Chapter 7 of untold misery of the displaced who have own population from such horrors, that the charter because that is the chapter that poured over the country’s borders in their the world, with United Nations Security might eventually be invoked to authorize tens of thousands, or sought uncertain Council authority, would intervene to pro- military force — demonstrates not only shelter in the besieged cities. vide that protection? And did we not do the difficulty of the case, but also a deep The violence of the Assad regime sur- just that, last year, in Libya? suspicion of the R2P doctrine itself. What passes anything Gadhafi ever threatened. To be sure, Syria presents the Security explains this aggressive attitude towards Meanwhile, Assad’s false promises and Council with a more complex challenge R2P? What does it mean for the nascent cynical disdain have frustrated efforts to than it faced in Libya. The complicated norm’s future? Can this opposition be find a diplomatic solution. So we are left neighbourhood, its intersecting alliances overcome, and can R2P remain viable? to watch a ruthless tyrant engage in the and the larger drama playing out over To understand what is at stake and the systematic murder of his own people. Iran make the situation most difficult. And political currents at play, we must first But had we not resolved after Rwanda, the Syrian army is literally a “force to be look at the recent history of initiatives

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aimed at protecting vulnerable popula- these compromises is just now becoming tions when their own governments are clear. unwilling or unable to do so. R2P after 2005 R2P and its origins The euphoria that followed the rapid An appalling series of atrocities in the adoption of R2P dissipated quickly when 1990s forced a chastened world to con- the Security Council failed to apply it in front, at long last, the inherent contradic- such emergencies as Darfur, the Demo- tion between the rigid doctrine of state cratic Republic of Congo and Sri Lanka. sovereignty on the one hand and, on the Those cases demonstrated the challenges other, the moral imperative to respond that cannot be overcome simply by put- when civilian populations are victimized ting even the most high-minded words within states that either cannot or will not on paper: developing the political will protect them. to respond, overcoming member states’ In the midst of these catastrophes, there suspicions about each other's motives were many calls for military intervention. VOA RROTT, and means, and persuading some on the A Advocates cited an inchoate “right to Security Council to put the protection of intervene” or invoked a moral obligation vulnerable civilians above their national LIZABETH loosely referred to as “humanitarian in- E interests and allegiances. tervention.” But neither of these concepts Anti-riot police in central Damascus The question therefore remained enjoys status in law, and each suffers from whether the international community a vagueness that leaves many (and espe- R2P also moves the emphasis from “boots could, as former UN secretary general cially states of the global south) uneasy. on the ground” to prevention, changing Kofi Annan had put it, “turn words into Both seem little more than impulses, well- the conversation in a constructive way. deeds.” motivated but undefined, and without At the 2005 UN World Summit, state And then along came Libya, a case in governing principles anchored in interna- leaders unanimously adopted the prin- which political will (largely inspired by tional law. ciples of R2P. While the speed at which strong regional calls for action) combined Following the ad hoc intervention in this occurred was celebrated, many key with R2P’s principles to produce effective Kosovo, government leaders and policy- but controversial elements in the commis- action to stop a threatened atrocity. The makers decided, at the request of the Ca- sion’s report fell away in the inevitable Security Council’s steadily escalating re- nadian government, to explore in a more “give and take” of the negotiations that sponses included sanctions, referral to the structured way the question of protection led to the final agreement. For example: ICC, an arms embargo and then the impo- and intervention. The International Com- The UN World Summit’s outcome sition of a “no fly zone.” These culminated mission on Intervention and State Sover- document limited the application of R2P in the Council’s authorization “to take all eignty (“the Commission”) — the body to four triggering events: genocide, ethnic necessary measures” to protect the Libyan that would ultimately release the initial cleansing, crimes against humanity and population. report on Responsibility to Protect — was war crimes. The commission’s recommen- And what made Libya different? A formed to undertake this crucial task. dation had not been so confined. combination of factors: credible threats of In its report released in late 2001, the While the commission had left room for imminent violence by Gadhafi against his commission concluded that while state alternative ways to authorize intervention people, a vigorous call for action by a key sovereignty remains the hallmark of the where the Security Council delays or can- regional player (the Arab League), strong international system, an essential compo- not reach consensus, the outcome docu- opposition and a weak army in Libya, and nent of sovereignty is the responsibility to ment made no mention of them. (perhaps most important) virtually uni- protect one’s own population from mass As cited above, the commission had versal denunciation of an isolated Gadhafi murder. The responsibility lies first with recommended a series of principles gov- with even his former friends fed up with the state itself to protect its own people, erning the use of force — when it should his increasingly irrational behaviour. but should it fail to do so, that respon- be authorized and how it can be de- The Security Council resolutions on sibility devolves upon the international ployed — but these were rejected by the Libya represented the high-water mark community. There, the responsibility falls five permanent members of the Council for R2P and its application. The Council’s under three pillars: the responsibility to as interfering unduly with their national decisions were held up as the ultimate an- prevent, to react, and to rebuild. prerogatives. swer to those who decried R2P as empty The commission emphasized that And although the commission had rhetoric. military intervention under R2P should al- recommended that the P5 adopt a “code But ironically, the seeds of the doc- ways be the very last resort. In the excep- of conduct” to limit the use of their veto trine’s failure in Syria can largely be tional case in which military intervention when responding to mass atrocity, fierce traced to the way the Libyan resolutions is considered, strict rules must govern the P5 opposition forced negotiators to drop were implemented. A protection mandate use of force. the demand or risk losing approval for rapidly took on the appearance of regime R2P represents a great advance in the R2P altogether. (The P5 refers to the five change, as NATO forces went after non- discussion of protection. It puts the princi- permanent members of the UN Security military targets and, in effect, took sides in ple in a legal framework, removing it from Council: the U.S., England, France, China the civil war. a “humanitarian impulse” and basing it and Russia.) There was strongly adverse reaction by instead on sovereignty as responsibility. As we will see, the price to be paid for Russia, China and others (including India,

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Brazil and South Africa — leading mem- mission’s recommended rules on the use bers of the G77 “unofficial opposition” of force: right authority, just cause, right to the Global North) to NATO’s aggres- intention, last resort, proportional means sive interpretation of the mandate. That and reasonable prospects. reaction, combined with the continued A good first step is the Brazilian gov- availability of the P5 veto even in cases of ernment’s initiative called “Responsibility threatened mass atrocity, go a very long while Protecting” which was tabled in the way to explaining the Security Council’s General Assembly in November 2011. In- Our latest innovation, inability to agree on any collective re- spired by the negative reaction to NATO’s sponse in Syria that invokes Chapter 7 of interpretation of the Libyan mandate and the all new the UN Charter. aimed at preserving R2P while satisfy- ing the demands for limits on “military R2P post-Libya intervention,” the document notes that So, what does this mean for the future of there’s growing concern that R2P might be by Miele R2P? Only a year after its success in Libya, misused for “purposes other than protect- R2P’s detractors have fresh grounds to ing civilians, such as regime change.” It attack the doctrine as an unreliable friend argues the international community “must of the vulnerable. None of this is made show a great deal of responsibility while any better by the pre-election paralysis of protecting.” It proposes that any authori- the United States and a European Union zation of force should be limited and the entangled in its Euro Zone fiscal failures. scope of military action should respect Some even suggest that R2P should be those limitations. abandoned in favour of unilateral action The Brazilian paper is a constructive by those states willing to support inter- initiative that deserves Canadian support. vention in any given case. They argue for It would help overcome the negative con- Coffee Systems a return to the “bad old days,” when states sequences of NATO’s muscular conduct in were free to do as they chose, but where Libya while promoting the commission’s their action was outside the framework of rules on the use of force that were rejected international law. in 2005. If these parameters were adopted, Such a regression would be disastrous. concerns that contributed to failure in the It would relinquish hard-won ground in case of Syria might be diminished the next the long effort to weave civilian protec- time an issue arises. tion into the sovereign duties of member Our second proposal is that, in view states and, should they default, into the of the Security Council’s deadlock over duties of the international community. Syria, UN member states should examine We contend that despite the collective other ways by which a collective response, failure to respond effectively in Syria, such as a “no-fly zone,” can be legiti- R2P continues to provide the most legiti- mately authorized. For example, the com- Convection Ovens mate and promising instrument to protect mission report referred to the “Uniting for vulnerable populations from mass atroc- Peace” mechanism in the General Assem- ity. R2P provides a framework within bly, by which two-thirds of its members which collective action involving even can support a course of action, lending it a military intervention, can be taken within “high level of legitimacy.” the law. While this mechanism was not referred All other formulae that have been tried to in the 2005 outcome document, it was or suggested for such cases — whether not specifically rejected. It would surely “coalitions of the willing,” humanitarian be difficult for Russia to object to interven- intervention or exercising the “right to in- tion authorized through such a legitimate tervene” — amount to unlawful invasions. means, when Russia itself is interven- In our view, the best way to deal with ing, by supplying the Assad regime with Steam and Speed Ovens the issues that prevented R2P’s applica- weapons and active political support. tion in Syria is to confront those issues Indeed, there is no shortage of interven- directly. tion in Syria now, ranging from those who On Display Now! are encouraging the insurgents, to regional Modest proposals actors infiltrating their ranks to make We offer three suggestions. First, find mischief or lay the groundwork for future 433 Bank Street ways to meet the concerns about the way influence. 613.695.9944 NATO used its mandate in Libya. It is Isn’t it time to seek authority in the mieleonbank.ca time to define with greater clarity the cir- General Assembly for a legitimate in- cumstances in which military force may tervention, aimed at actually protecting be authorized and the manner in which it the civilian population? And what better may be used. Why not return to the com- champion for this cause than Canada,

16 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC GOB__Brws_2.25x9.625_v1.2.indd 1 8/8/2012 11:57:33 AM dEbatE|DIPLOMATICA

original sponsor of the commission’s An optimistic conclusion work? We conclude on a note of optimism, re- Finally, let’s begin now to focus on the membering that only a decade has passed post-Assad era. The moment may have since the commission first proposed R2P. passed for effective action to avoid full- Measured by the glacial pace at which scale civil war, but it is not too early to important changes are introduced into plan for what will happen when Assad international law, R2P has advanced with leaves. unprecedented speed. It is hardly surpris- It now seems inevitable that he will go, ing that its evolution has been marked by and equally clear that his departure could failures as well as successes. precipitate a wide intersectarian conflict What is most encouraging is the strong in Syria. Citing the first R2P principle (the residual loyalty that so many UN mem- responsibility to prevent), member states ber states (including the vast majority should anticipate and try to avoid that from the global south) have shown to its conflict. We should seek the collaboration principles, and their willingness to seek

of like-minded states in, among other VOA RROTT, solutions to the challenges that R2P faces things, preparatory work towards the cre- A in becoming a standard response when ation of a protection force to separate fac- vulnerable populations are threatened by LIZABETH tions and prevent internal, violent chaos E lawless governments. after the Assad regime falls. Lakhdar Brahimi called his job as the UN Despite the Security Council’s failure Such a force could separate the compet- and Arab League’s representative for Syria to apply R2P in Syria and elsewhere, we ing interests to “keep the peace” during “nearly impossible.” must continue to work towards the day the negotiations towards a new model of when its principles are put into practice governance. Since post-Assad violence is of force would soften P5 resistance. And in a consistent and effective way. The entirely predictable, why don’t we start those who use the veto to deny protection stakes are simply too high for us to do planning now to prevent it, for the sake of and thereby condemn innocents to death otherwise. the vulnerable civilians who will pay the should face significant consequences. Let’s steepest price if we do not? ensure that Russia and China pay a price Lloyd Axworthy was Canada’s foreign Longer term, we are going to need for preventing meaningful action in Syria. minister from 2000 to 2005. Allan Rock limitations on the use of the veto in such Boycotts, shunning and even trade sanc- was Canada’s ambassador to the United cases. Perhaps adopting rules on the use tions should be considered. Nations from 2004 to 2006.

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DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 17 DIPLOMATICA|NOtEs FROM thE FiEld

Canadians confront a global issue By Liz Ballantyne-Jackson

t’s a little known problem in the west, but exposure to smoke from cooking Ifires kills approximately two million people worldwide every year. Globally, nearly three billion people use polluting, inefficient stoves or open flames to cook their food. This results in deforestation, car- bon emissions and numerous health issues. Breathing in the toxic fumes while pre- paring tortillas and frijoles puts women and children at risk for blindness, respira- tory illnesses and burns on a daily basis. In Guatemala alone, about 77 percent of families use wood as their main fuel source. As a result, nearly two percent of Guatemala’s forest is lost annually, mainly due to the need for cooking-fire fuel. And gathering the wood requires precious fam- ily resources and time. The situation is similar throughout Central and South America and the issue is slowly gaining global attention through agencies such as the Global Alliance for Volunteers for the Guatemala Hot Stove project after they completed a project. Clockwise Clean Cookstoves, a public/private UN from top left: Canadian volunteers Keith Walker, Rowan Delgrande, Melissa Cordick, Keith Cordick, Quiche-Maya mason Juan Hernandez Cochojil and Lisa Walker. At right, the family of initiative, but in the meantime, a small Micaela Cox-Hernandez and Andres Ramos Garcia, who received the stove. group of Canadian volunteers is working steadily to make a difference, one stove and one family at a time. cooking fires. They quickly develop an un- artisan groups with cash to purchase craft A trained mason can make an im- derstanding of how poverty affects those supplies. In another region, the project is proved cooking stove in less than a day. who live on less than two dollars a day. helping fund a gravity-fed system to bring These stoves, which are compatible with Upon returning to Canada, the volun- water to an isolated mountain community. local cooking methods, are made of ce- teers work to raise funds for more stoves, With all of these projects, the participation ment blocks on the outside and fire bricks which will be built throughout the year and labour of the community members is inside, filled with sand for insulation by trained Guatemalan masons. This crucial. and held together by mortar made from generates employment and supports local The work Tom Clarke began 13 years various combinations of Portland cement, businesses that make, sell and deliver the ago continues to inspire volunteers be- sifted sand, pumice and lime. The “plan- stove parts and materials to the mountain cause of its grassroots approach and the cha” or stove-top, is made of shiny, bright villages. immediate positive effect of the stoves. steel with burner-type openings. The The Guatemala Stove Project is a vol- Women and children, in particular, breathe crowning glory of this low-tech kitchen unteer-driven non-profit organization better; the women spend less time cook- “appliance” is the chimney pipe that takes founded by Canadian builder Tom Clarke ing, which allows them to help generate the poisonous smoke out of the house. It’s who first started building the justa-style income for their families and the stoves a big step up from cooking on the floor stoves in 1999. The project has since also reduce carbon emissions and pressure over an open fire, as most women do in funded close to 5,000 stoves, which means on local forests. In short, there is a global rural Guatemala. 5,000 families are living in cleaner houses, benefit to providing improved cooking Each year, in an effort to do their part, a breathing unpolluted air. stoves to developing countries. And for group of Canadians travels on a volunteer The project's core activity continues to the dozens of local stove project volunteers awareness trip to the western highlands be the building of stoves, but it has also and supporters, it’s a more down-to-earth with the Guatemala Stove Project. Work- provided funds for a sustainable nutrition way to share some of Canada’s good ing in small groups with a mason and program for a needy village, emergency fortune. Whichever way you look at it, it a Spanish translator, they spend several relief funds in the aftermath of hurricanes makes good sense to fund improved cook- days in the homes of the Mayan families and mudslides and a mobile medical clinic ing practices. Cooking should sustain us, who have been chosen to receive these to provide services in remote mountain not kill us. stoves. The Canadians experience their villages. It currently funds micro-loans to living conditions and feel the sting of the help subsistence farmers purchase live- Liz Ballantyne-Jackson is a Guatemala smoke in their eyes from the unvented stock and provide members of women’s Stove Project volunteer.

18 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC gOOd dEEds|DIPLOMATICA

Surviving cancer and living a football dream

areed Ali was 17 years old when he was diagnosed with non-Hodgkin’s Flymphoma. One of the bright spots in his intensive treatment plan, which included eight months of chemotherapy and four lumbar punctures (spinal taps), was an offer from the Children’s Wish Foundation. They asked him to dream big and he did — the avid fan wanted to see a World Cup foot- ball game but the World Cup wouldn’t take place again before 2014, at which GAVAI AVI point he would have surpassed Children’s Cancer survivor and Children’s Wish recipient Fareed Ali received a photo from his Euro 2012 Wish’s age limit. He asked instead to see match trip from Marko Shevchenko, Ukraine’s chargé d’affaires. Wish Foundation board a Euro Cup 2012 game. He wanted to member Ian Smith is in the centre. see the Netherlands-Germany match — they’re teams with a classic rivalry. Of tary at the embassy of Ukraine, one of two The goal of the program is to allow chil- course, it didn’t hurt that Van Persie, his countries hosting Euro 2012. dren with life-threatening diseases to for- favourite player, was playing for the Neth- “The embassy called everyone they get about their illness and just enjoy time erlands. could think of and finally spoke to the with their family, creating lasting memo- But Euro Cup tickets proved challeng- president of the organizing committee and ries. Children’s Wish took care of the air- ing for the foundation. They’re always we got our tickets,” Mr. Smith said. “Then fare, hotel and ground transportation costs expensive — good seats cost a few hun- they went beyond that to make sure we and even spending money for Ali, his par- dred dollars each, and at the point they had hotel advice, people on the ground to ents, and his closest cousin, with whom he were asking, the price was closer to $1,500 translate. They were phenomenal. has grown up. “We’re more like siblings,” apiece. The cheaper ones had long ago “Members of the community just Mr. Ali said. “It was amazing.” sold out and Children’s Wish staff were wanted to help Fareed out” Mr. Smith The diplomats at the Ukrainian em- having no luck tracking down the four said. bassy helped a lot, the young man said. they needed — one for each of Ali’s par- Mr. Sienik was predictably modest “They’re very, very nice people.” ents and one for the only child’s choice of about his contribution. “I said I was ea- Mr. Ali, now 20, and living the life of an friend — at a reasonable price. ger to help, but I needed time,” he said, average young Ottawan, was diagnosed Enter Ian Smith. Mr. Smith, who is on and added that the embassy’s chargé with non-Hodgkins lymphoma in August the board of the Children’s Wish Founda- d’affaires, Marko Shevchenko, also played 2010 and his cancer was declared eradi- tion, a member of Ottawa Mayor Jim Wat- an important role in finally securing the cated in the spring of 2011. He returns for son’s protocol team and a well-connected tickets. “I called everyone I could think of. checkups every three to four months and, man, called Denys Sienik, second secre- It was all for a good cause.” as he says, “everything’s been fine.”

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DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 19 DIPLOMATICA|diplOMatiC agENda

Israel and Canada: Partners in Innovation

a general sense still impressive and unparalleled. Un- of unease was in like other examples of economic turn- FIRST NAME: Miriam the air. arounds and miraculous expansion, this LAST NAME: Ziv A ll of this was not a result of new discoveries of Israeli changed in a natural resources. What allowed Israel to CITIZENSHIP: span of just catapult its economy was the decision by BECAME AMBASSADOR TO CANADA: a few years. policymakers to make a national priority Sept. 15, 2008 Between 1985 of innovation, entrepreneurship and the Toronto and and 2011, Is- commercialization of knowledge. PREVIOUS POSTINGS: rael’s GDP per Explaining this economic success story Rome capita grew by has been the purview of many doctoral an astonishing theses and lengthy reports by global 423 percent think-tanks. For instance, the Canadian from $6,171 to Advanced Technology Alliance recently $32, 298 (Israel teamed up with billionaire Terence Mat- Export & International Cooperation In- thews to call for a national venture capital s policymakers search for ways stitute, 2012). Even when you adjust for program modelled after Israel’s Yozma to foster more innovative econo- inflation, this rapid economic growth is initiative. Created in 1993, Yozma helped Amies, many are turning to Israel for answers. Over the course of my tenure as ambassador, the embassy has made it a priority to present Israel to Canada as a partner in innovation. With a population of 7.8 million and a territory two-thirds the size of Vancouver Island, what Israel lacks in size and natu- ral resources, it more than makes up for in ingenuity. The Israeli experience has culti- vated citizens who think outside the box, striving to find creative solutions. Israel is a leader in the fields that are beginning to define the 21st Century: brain research, nanotechnology, renewable energy, water management and biotechnology. During President Shimon Peres’ visit to Ottawa last May, innovation was at the top of the agenda. Gov.-Gen. David John- ston praised Israel as the startup nation: “a place where entrepreneurs with big ideas can find a supportive environment in which to build a business.” Its reputa- tion is not just reflected in accolades, but can also be identified by its standing at the top of many global indicators. Recently, the Global Innovation Index, issued annually by the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), ranked Israel as the best country for research and development and first in the world for the quality of its scientific research insti- tutions. However, Israel was not always

in such an enviable position. During the OTHA N D mid-1980s, the economy faced crippling OAV OAV inflation and economic stagnation. Unem- Y ployment was at an all-time high, skilled The Weizmann Institute of Science is one of the world’s leading multidisciplinary research workers were leaving for jobs abroad and institutions.

20 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC diplOMatiC agENda|DIPLOMATICA

to establish 10 new Venture Capital funds scientific journal articles per capita, first Research Council of Canada, it supports of about $20 million with each one capital- in the availability of qualified engineers, joint projects and marks Canada’s first ini- ized 40 percent by government money and first in PhDs per capita. Combin- tiative under EUREKA — a collaborative and 60 percent by foreign investment. This ing a highly skilled workforce with the European network for market-based R&D. allowed for an environment that encour- other key components of the innovation This partnership was the culmination aged entrepreneurship and a willingness network has turned this tiny country — of a process that began two years earlier to take chances on new ideas. Neverthe- 50 percent of which is a desert — into a when prime ministers Harper and Ne- less, one element, by itself, does not tell magnet for R&D. More than 240 high-tech tanyahu identified three important areas the whole story. multinationals have set up research cen- of co-operation: renewable energy, water When Israel’s chief scientist, Avi tres that employ more than 50,000 people. technology and brain research. We also Hasson, was in Ottawa this past July, he The list reads as a “who’s who” of the have the Canada-Israel Industrial Re- explained that the Israeli advantage of ex- high-tech industry whose ticker symbols search & Development Foundation that cellence and initiative is a result of a com- are found at the top of every stock index has generated an estimated $400 million plex innovation ecosystem — a network of and whose products are found throughout for Canadian companies over the last 10 researchers, R&D centres, incubators, en- your home and office. From Intel to Cisco years. Since it was established in 1994, it trepreneurs, venture capital, industry and and Microsoft to Google, everyone is set- has engaged more than 160 Canadian and a legal framework that protects intellec- ting up shop. Recently, Apple located its Israeli companies in 90 joint projects. tual property rights. David Naylor, presi- first research centre outside of the United By connecting researchers and business dent of the University of Toronto, used a States in Israel. leaders from both countries, these part- hockey metaphor to describe what drives In these times of financial turmoil and nership programs have and will continue this network: “Like a good hockey team, volatility, Israel is not resting on its laurels. to reap mutually beneficial results. They [Israelis are] playing a shots-on-goal game This brings the discussion back to the role also provide the groundwork for greater ... They’re building a pipeline to churn out of the embassy. Israel is in the process of collaboration in more sectors and on other hundreds of new ideas ... knowing that expanding its innovation ecosystem be- levels. A bright future lies ahead with only a few will ever fly in global markets.” yond its borders and Canada is a priority. Canada and Israel standing side by side as At the heart of this innovation network This past summer, we witnessed the fruits partners in innovation. is a highly skilled workforce. A 2011 of some of these efforts with the launch of OECD report ranked Israelis right after the Canada-Israel Technology Innovation Miriam Ziv is Israel’s ambassador to Canadians as the most educated people Partnership. Funded by Israel’s Office Canada. in the world. Israel also ranks first in of the Chief Scientist and the National

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 21 DIPLOMATICA|QUEstiONs askEd

Flora MacDonald: On war, foreign policy and Afghanistan

Flora MacDonald has been to Afghanistan future generations. One of the things I do 12 times. Not every woman her age — throughout Afghanistan is set up training she’s 86 — can say the same. But then Ms sessions for women and girls, because in MacDonald’s whole life has been about places like Afghanistan, girls and women firsts. She was the first woman to mount a don’t get all that much attention. In the serious campaign for the leadership of the villages we’re in, the women and girls Conservative Party of Canada (no women participate alongside the men and boys had run for the leadership of the — that’s different from most other places Liberals at that time, either). Elected in Afghanistan. We’re in 75 villages. to Parliament in 1972, she became an ally of fellow red Tory Joe DM: Are you still travelling regularly? Clark who, in 1979, made her FM: Mostly I’m travelling in Canada. Canada’s first female secretary I raise money by speaking in various of state for external affairs. places. They invite me to speak and the Indeed, she was one of way we do it is they take half of what the the first female foreign event raises and I take the other half for ministers in the world at our work in Afghanistan. I have to pay that time. for everything myself, but I often have Today, she divides her enough frequent-flyer points to cover my time between her two-bed- travel. room apartment overlooking the Rideau Canal on Queen DM: How much money have you raised Elizabeth Driveway, and travel- over the years? ling across the country to drum FM: Oh, I don’t know, but it would be a up support for her charity, Future lot. I keep these programs going and they Generations Canada. When at home, all cost about $50,000 or $60,000 a year. she’s surrounded by mementoes from her travels, trinkets collected during her DM: Why did you become interested in short stint as foreign minister and later, Afghanistan? from the humanitarian work she’s been FM: I met a man and his son in New York doing in Afghanistan and Tibet since and I travelled with them to Northern In- 1988. There’s a cloth banner that looks dia. Once I did that, I began to take trips like a wood tote, but is actually used to on my own through what was not yet carry children on the sides of camels. There Pakistan — it was split from India later. are bells used to herd livestock from Tibet, Once I got to the far side of Pakistan, I a glass-encased figure from China, a wood- decided to keep going to Afghanistan. carved game from Africa. Every square inch But my interest goes back farther than is covered — walls and surfaces. One wall that. My father’s oldest brother left school of the living room is lined with bookshelves in North Sydney because Grade 10 or 11 full of history books. Another bookshelf was as high as you could go at that time. overflows with archived copies of Foreign He went to Dalhousie to continue his Affairs journal, Maclean’s and National studies and it was then that the Boer War Geographic. broke out. There was a great call to the The irrepressible octogenarian — who Empire, to go to South Africa and fight, has significantly distanced herself from which he did. Then, he decided he liked politics and practically spits when discuss- it so much there that he would stay. After ing the Harper government — these days he’d stayed in South Africa, there was a votes NDP. She spoke to Diplomat’s editor call for the troops — he had joined the Jennifer Campbell about the good old days Black Watch Regiment — to go to India. in politics and her current preoccupations. His regiment went to the far end of India, which touched on to Afghanistan DM: Can you start by telling me about at that point. He was there until the First

NN E WILSO N your work in Afghanistan? World War broke out. He commanded a

YA FM:

D It’s an NGO called Future Gen- regiment and he would send letters home erations Canada because we work for every two weeks to his parents. It was

22 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC QUEstiONs askEd|DIPLOMATICA

huge party. I was surprised I won. At that FM: I remember I was in Parliament and time, I was the only woman in the oppo- I had been told what was happening, but sition. It was 1972. I had been working in that I couldn’t repeat any of it. So I was in Kingston, at Queen’s University. the House (of Commons) but I couldn’t My family was always interested in the say what was going on and had to pre- political scene when I was growing up. tend I didn’t know anything about it. So I When Bob Stanfield was elected premier ended up just having to look awfully stu- of Nova Scotia, I went to Halifax to see pid in the House, giving such far-out an- if I could get a job with his new team. I swers. It was over Christmas and we met didn’t, but I did get into working at PC almost up to Christmas Eve and came headquarters there and after that, I ended back right after New Year’s. All of this up moving to Ottawa and got into the time, I was being pestered by the press PC headquarters here. I’d go work in and I couldn’t even discuss it with my provincial elections across the country. own staff. In the end, when I came out, We had won elections in Newfoundland, I was blamed for not having done more Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince at the time. It was absolutely frustrating. Edward Island — so that was four (prov- When it was all over, we were at a inces). During that time, Jean Charest ballgame in New York and there was this and his wife moved into this building (on huge audience at the stadium. They rose Queen Elizabeth Driveway) and I would and sang O Canada, among other things.

NN E WILSO N babysit his children when he and his wife It was great but I kept getting blamed at YA

D would have to go out to functions. The home for not having done enough. It was strangest connections happen. We’ve al- a very turbulent time, but it’s also one of essentially his diary. It was reading that ways remained friends. the memories I will always have. that got me interested in what this country was like. I was in my teens at the time. My DM: You were minister during the Iran DM: You were the only woman in cabinet. father had kept all these letters. My uncle, hostage crisis (when six American diplo- What was it like being in an old boys’ Alexander MacDonald, was shot and mats who evaded kidnapping were taken network? killed in Afghanistan as he was getting the to the Canadian and Swiss embassies to FM: I was expected to play my role as a remainder of his troops back. I had always hide.) What do you remember from that minister and I was expected to play a role wanted to go back and see where this time? as the leader of the women’s movement battle took place and where he died. I (first) went to Afghanistan in 1988 or 1989. When I was foreign minister, I Meet Paige: always had to get back quickly when I One of Elmwood’s Inspiring Girls travelled, so after that ended, I decided to go back and see these things for myself. “Paige meets the challenges of algebra head-on. She could DM: What was it like to be foreign minis- become an engineer, investment ter in the ’80s? banker or mathematician. FM: There were two secretaries of state at No matter what path she takes, the time, one for foreign affairs and one it all adds up to a bright future for domestic affairs, so the secretary of for Paige.” state for foreign affairs, had a lot of things that came under it. That’s the way it was - Mrs. Mulcahy, Math Teacher at that time.

DM: Was it your dream job? here is one thing that every single girl at Elmwood School has: potential. FM: I don’t really think so. Things just We see it in the classroom, on the field, in the halls and all around us. We kept happening to me. I didn’t expect T believe that every girl comes to us with untapped potential, and it is our job to to get elected. When I first ran, it was help her discover it. an accident. I was supposed to be help- ing someone else and when that person Elmwood School Highlights: didn’t show up, they sent me up to • IB Programme at all levels ensures ease of mobility for diplomatic families speak. The next thing I knew, I was cho- • Outstanding graduate achievement and university placement sen to be the candidate. It was like I was • Supportive atmosphere eases transition to new school and city shoved into it. And no one really took me • Inspiring, dedicated faculty as being serious. • Diverse, globally aware student body • ESL instruction available from JK to Grade 12 DM: Were you serious? For more information on the advantages of an FM: Well, I was just really surprised by it. Elmwood education, please visit elmwood.ca. Inspiring girls On election night, we ended up having a

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 23 DIPLOMATICA|QUEstiONs askEd

and those are big shoes to fill. I was abso- (Paul Dewar is the NDP MP for Ms. Mac- lutely, totally exhausted at the end of that Donald’s riding.) campaign. Later, when Mulroney was elected, there were more women elected DM: What do you consider the world’s and eventually, it was thought normal to hot spots right now? have women in cabinet. They didn’t go FM: The part of the world that is most through what I went through. (Points to interesting at the present time is the Far a picture of Clark’s cabinet where she’s East. This is where population is explod- the only woman). See, I made it a point ing, where new kinds of enterprises are to wear a light-coloured dress so it would being built. It’s a seething mass of energy stand out. Now, over here (points to a and we really know so little about it. We photo of Mulroney’s first cabinet), the go to a city in China and think we know Queen and I are dressed to stand out. China, but how do you know a civiliza- You can see there are half-a-dozen other tion until you’ve really immersed your- females in cabinet, but they all came in self in it completely? I say that because wearing dark clothes. I mean, of all the I’ve worked in Afghanistan and I know stupid things! what it is to know people in 75 villages, but that’s only one minor part of Af- DM: Can you talk about the current gov- ghanistan and that’s only one minor part ernment with respect to foreign policy? Is of Asia. We don’t really have a global per- John Baird doing a good job? spective on the world and regardless of FM: There isn’t anybody in that govern- how much (John) Baird tries, he doesn’t ment doing a good job. I don’t think they come at it from that point of view. NN E WILSO N YA

know what it’s all about. D DM: What’s the most concerning spot DM: Are you still a Conservative? bring 4,000. I said I’d take her example globally? FM: I’m still a Progressive Conservative. and speak to people all across the country FM: To me, it’s there as well. The fact that There are only a few of us left: Joe Clark, about it and urge them to do the same we are still interested as a country in Lowell Murray. We get together from thing. At that point, I persuaded the cabi- Afghanistan. In how many parts of the time to time. net that we should be able to take in 25,000 world have our soldiers been posted? and I’d get people in the various cities to There aren’t that many in recent years DM: So how do you vote now? match it so we’d bring 50,000 in total. and yet the government still knows so FM: I vote NDP. You see, when I was for- And, I’ll never forget it, someone up in little about it. eign minister, there were two buildings Yellowknife said they wanted 100 there. It on Sussex at that time. One was the de- was happening everywhere and it ended DM: What do you make of the increasing partment of foreign affairs and the other up being about 80,000. It was the biggest number of attacks on NATO troops by was City Hall, where Marion Dewar was mass migration since the 1850s when their so-called allies in the Afghan secu- mayor. We were great friends and we’d do Canada was opening up. Marion Dewar rity forces? things together all the time. We worked and I often appeared together and she’d FM: The fact is that Asia is a tribal society. together on the boat people project. She bring her son, Paul. I’ve always known They have been fighting among them- came to me and we worked out that she’d him and so, I’ve always supported him selves for hundreds and hundreds of

24 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC QUEstiONs askEd|DIPLOMATICA

years. We think by going into one or two cities in Afghanistan, we can figure out what it’s all about.

DM: Are you surprised by the attacks? FM: No, not if I go back and look at the history of Scotland. That was a tribal society. I grew up knowing these things. My father used to say “Scratch a thief and find a Campbell” (laughs). Or “false and fair, like a Campbell.” You have these things which are part of your history. You just really see all this from a different point of view when you look at it from the way in which the world is composed — different areas of tribal societies. Africa is one of the best examples.

DM: What are your thoughts on the Arab Spring? FM: Again, it’s very much part of that tribal society. It didn’t surprise me.

DM: Were you pleased? FM: Yes. But I weigh everything with a much longer look at it. I’m optimistic because it’s happened before, so many times. There have been ups and downs throughout history. It’s fascinating be- cause you see it happening again and again. There’s always a bright picture after the bad times. I’ve seen that — com- ing out of the First World War, everyone was so joyous and then suddenly there was the crash. Then it was rebuilt. So I’m always optimistic.

DM: Are you still travelling internationally? FM: Yes. I’ll always go to Afghanistan. I’ve been there 12 times.

DM: Have you written your memoirs? FM: Yes, there are 13 chapters, over there (points to a bookcase in the corner). It will be published at some point.

DM: You have a photo of Flora MacDon- ald’s gravestone on your wall. Tell me about that. (Flora MacDonald helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape capture on the island of Benbecula after the Battle of Culloden and then accompanied him un- der cover — he was dressed as her maid — to the Isle of Skye.) FM: That’s the woman I’m named after. There has always been a Flora MacDonald in my family, through the generations. (Reads the headstone) “Flora MacDonald, preserver of the life of Prince Charles Edward Stewart. Her name will be men- tioned in history, and if courage and fidel- ity be virtues, mentioned with honour.” D

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 25 DIPLOMATICA|aFtER iNaUgURatiON

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26 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC tRadE wiNds|DIPLOMATICA

Trinidad and Tobago: The Caribbean’s economic leader

past decade and are concentrated in the sectors of petrochemicals and minerals, which account for 72 percent of the value of T&T exports to Canada; iron and steel products, which account for 25 percent of exports, followed by agriculture and fish- eries products. The main opportunities for economic growth, cooperation and investment be- tween T&T and Canada are in the energy, health and education sectors. In energy, we have identified five By Philip A. Buxo opportunities for potential Canadian investment. These include joint ven- rinidad and Tobago is open for busi- ture partnerships in the exploration of ness. projected oil reserves; partnering with T Not only is our twin island demo- Canadian companies to use environmen- cratic republic located at the crossroads tally friendly technologies, such as steam of the Americas, but we also have access Trinidad and Tobago has earned a reputa- assisted gravity drainage in the develop- to regional and international markets tion as an excellent investment site for inter- ment of our heavy oil reserves; investment through multiple trade agreements. Trini- national business. in carbon capture and sequestration (CCS) dad & Tobago (T&T) is not just the leading projects in T&T; the further development Caribbean producer of hydrocarbons, it's tance of PPPs for improving the quality of compressed natural gas (CNG) as a also a world-class competitor and Latin and quantity of basic infrastructure and major alternate vehicular fuel in T&T; and American hub for them. for opening up opportunities for Cana- the further development of the melamine A respected financial centre in the Ca- dian private-sector investment in the industry of T&T. An additional area of ribbean, with one of the highest growth Caribbean Community (CARICOM) cooperation targets the supply of energy rates in Latin America, T&T has earned its region. PPPs can assist with maximizing workers from T&T to Alberta’s energy reputation as an excellent investment site. the efficiency and innovation of private sector. Our low energy costs, educated, skilled enterprise and with technical, managerial In the health sector, a framework agree- and competitive labour force, coupled and institutional capacity within key gov- ment between T&T and Canada was re- with our access to highly developed ernment ministries and agencies. We are cently signed during the state visit of Gov. communications infrastructure and fiscal working diligently with CIDA on develop- Gen. David Johnston. This agreement will incentives, are some of the competitive ing a regional project for the provision of support the increasing interest of Cana- advantages we offer Canadian investors. PPP training. dian companies in the development of the T&T, with a population of approxi- T&T has also offered to partner with health care industry in T&T. mately 1.3 million people, can be best CIDA in the delivery of its disaster aid In education, T&T has been pursuing described as the most advanced and and preparedness projects in the Carib- relationships between our tertiary insti- dynamic country in the English-speaking bean region. This furthers the leadership tutions with like-minded institutions in Caribbean. Not only are we the world’s demonstrated by T&T through our com- Canada. A memorandum of understand- largest producer and exporter of methanol mitment to regional integration, regional ing between the University of Trinidad and ammonia, but we are also home to the security and disaster relief. We have al- and Tobago and the Marine Institute of invention of the steelpan and the host of ways provided assistance to countries in Memorial University was recently signed, one of the greatest Carnival celebrations the region which have experienced natural with the aim of developing a regional cen- in the world. disasters, and, in 2010, created a policy of tre of excellence in marine education and The year 2012 is a significant year — we emergency assistance in the aftermath of training. celebrated our 50th anniversary of inde- Hurricane Tomas in St. Lucia. T&T remains committed to creating a pendence Aug. 31 as well as 50 years of We look forward to the further ex- healthy and competitive business envi- formal diplomatic relations with Canada. pansion of economic ties between T&T ronment that attracts both domestic and The trade, immigration and cultural ex- and Canada. T&T is Canada’s largest foreign investment. changes that have taken place between merchandise export market and second For further information on trade-re- our countries have formed a strong foun- largest import partner in the CARICOM lated activities and investment opportuni- dation. region. Bilateral trade figures reveal that in ties, please visit www.investt.co.tt. Today we look forward to strengthen- 2011, the total value of imports to Canada ing this relationship through partnering from T&T was Cdn $388 million, while Philip A. Buxo is high commissioner with CIDA in the areas of public-private the value of exports from Canada to T&T for The Republic Trinidad and Tobago. partnerships (PPPs) and disaster aid and was Cdn $341 million. T&T exports have Reach him by email at ottawa@ttmis- preparedness. We recognize the impor- more than quadrupled in value over the sions.com or by phone at 613-232-2418.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 27 DIPLOMATICA|tRadE wiNds

Egypt is primed and ready for business

new investments. The past decade has witnessed landmark reforms to the invest- ment environment, mainly at the macro- economic level, including the introduction of legal reforms and streamlining of bu- reaucratic procedures towards a more at- tractive investment milieu. The strategic Suez Canal waterway helps Egypt reinforce its position at the economic crossroads of the Afro-Eurasia region. Its diversified economy, proximity

TER to Europe, the Middle East, North Africa

By Wael Aboul Magd CEN and Eurasia, aided by a young and vibrant workforce, a modern road and telecom- n 2014, Egypt and Canada will mark munications infrastructure and a sophis- ISTORICAL 60 years since the establishment of H ticated business community, position my diplomatic relations. During that country as a gateway for Canada into I NAVAL time, our bilateral relationship has been neighbouring markets. The Suez Canal puts Egypt at the crossroads founded on mutual interest in peace and of Afro-Eurasia trade. There are short-term challenges fac- stability in the Middle East, trade and ing the Egyptian economy as the country development and cultural diversity. The undergoes democratic transformation, latter is partly the function of a vibrant food products. Egypt welcomes Canadian but reports by international financial in- Egyptian-Canadian community, which exports in machinery and equipment, es- stitutions put Egypt’s economy on a high- has served over the years as a bridge pecially those with high-tech components; growth trajectory in the medium and long between the two countries while con- grains, mainly wheat and lentils; wood term, predicting a 5.7-percent growth rate tributing to Canada’s socio-economic and timber products. in the near future, according to a recent development, prosperity and cultural di- Our strong partnership is seen in nu- report by HSBC. The report noted that versity. This important human dimension merous success stories. Vidéotron and Egypt will be among the world’s 30 coun- not only gives the bilateral relationship the Egyptian Contact Center company tries with the highest growth rates and, a special character, but also provides the Xceed, which created the first Canadian by size, its economy will be 20th in the backbone for a stronger partnership in the call centre in the Middle East, have an out- world by 2050. Such confidence in Egypt’s future. sourcing agreement. Bombardier, SNC La- economy is not without ground — we’ve To create a stronger partnership, one valin, RBC Financial Services, IMAX and grown at a robust 7 percent annually in of my priorities is to strengthen bilateral fertilizer giants Methanex and Agrium all the last decade, uninhibited by the world economic co-operation. Egypt and Canada operate in Egypt. Egyptian telecom giant recession. Egypt’s economy has withstood are already reliable trading partners. Two- Orascom teamed up with Globalive Com- the challenges and has proven its struc- way trade reached $1.15 billion in 2011 munications Corporation for an advanced tural foundations are sound and solid. — a 28 percent increase over the previous wireless services (AWS) spectrum auction There is no doubt its location and advan- year and an 85-percent increase over 2001. in Canada and won a licence in 2008 to tages ensure it will remain a strong market Of that, $699 million is the value of Cana- establish Wind mobile network. Research and favourite destination for investors dian exports to Egypt, made up mainly of in Motion (RIM) is set to open a centre and business people looking for revenues agricultural products (wheat, lentils, dairy in Cairo’s Smart Village, its first research in young markets. products and maize), minerals, lumber and development centre in Africa and the Neither political developments nor products and civil aviation aircrafts. In Middle East. And these are just a few ex- short-term economic challenges should the same period, the value of Egyptian amples of the unlimited opportunities for impede a deepening of Egypt-Canada exports to Canada reached $455 million, mutually profitable co-operation. relations. The solid foundation has been marking a staggering 60-percent increase Egypt is considered one of the leading established and joint efforts should be from 2010, concentrated mainly in gold emerging markets, thanks to its attractive focused on realizing the mutual benefits (at 74 percent), textiles, chemicals (largely investment opportunities. For Canada, ar- inherent in this relationship. As Canadian fertilizers) and foodstuffs. eas of interest include energy and renew- companies are discovering they cannot These figures are promising and reflect able energy, ICT, petrochemicals, financial solely rely on domestic demand, diversi- an upward trend, but much more can be services, mining and mineral resources. fying risks through foreign expansion is done to realize the full potential. Egypt And there are others not currently being vital to ensuring long-term growth. Egypt still wants access to Canada’s textile explored by Canadian corporations. These is open for business. market (apparel and home textiles), ICT include aerospace, infrastructure projects products — the fastest growing sector in (including water systems, bridges, and Wael Aboul Magd is Egypt’s ambassador Egypt, yet hardly visible in Egyptian ex- roads) and environmental projects. to Canada. Reach him at egypt4931@rog- ports to Canada — home furnishings and Egypt is well-positioned to attract ers.com or (613)-234-4931.

28 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC tRadE wiNds|DIPLOMATICA

Bulgaria: economic and tourism opportunities await

Bulgaria is a picturesque country and one of the most interesting tourist places in Southeastern Europe. It is famous for its variety of natural resources, flora and fauna, farming and culinary mastery, dis- tinctive ethnography and folklore. Many people —Thracians, Greeks, Romans, Slavs and Ottoman Turks — who tra- versed our lands, left their mark in more than 30,000 cultural sites. This, together with the traditional hospitality of the Bulgarians, attracts millions of tourists By Zlati Katzarski annually. Bulgaria’s mild climate makes it a fascinating destination throughout the ulgaria has managed to weather year. the global economic crisis rela- The wide range of attractions offers Btively well, thanks to a policy of something for every single tourist. strong fiscal discipline. The gross domes- Bulgaria is ripe for rural and eco- tourism. The warm welcome, delicious tic product grew by 1.7 percent in 2011. Nessebar, one of Bulgaria’s major seaside During the first two quarters of 2012, resorts. traditional cuisine, authentic folklore and the agricultural and industrial sectors crafts, village festivals and dances will increased respectively by 12.4 percent and give you moments of joy, close to nature. 2 percent. In the near term, the European Comprehensive Economic and Trade Few know that Bulgaria boasts the Commission projects GDP growth of 0.5 Agreement between the EU and Canada highest and largest mountain ranges in percent for 2012 and 1.9 percent in 2013. in boosting growth, creating new jobs and Southeast Europe. Their spectacular land- Bulgarian exports have substantially ensuring tangible long-term perspectives scapes, ice lakes, caves and peaks offer an increased since 2009. They rose by 33 for economic development and prosper- excellent opportunity for nature-oriented percent in 2010 and a further 30 percent in ity. Bulgaria strongly supports the agree- holidays in the summer: rafting along 2011. Imports grew also — by 15 percent ment and believes it will facilitate the river streams, hunting, hiking and rock- in 2010 and 21.3 percent in early 2012. free movement of our citizens to Canada climbing. In winter, mountain resorts offer The Bulgarian government has un- where they can pursue business opportu- attractive conditions for skiing. Bansko, dertaken a series of measures aimed at nities, academic studies or tourism. situated at Mount Pirin, is a renowned securing a balanced budget and economic Diplomatic relations between Bulgaria European winter resort where interna- growth. Its economic policy has been and Canada began in 1966, yet the bilat- tional snowboard and ski competitions focused on three priority sectors: informa- eral trade exchange became visible only take place. tion and communication technologies, in 2005. Despite the upward trend over Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast is one of Eu- eco-technologies and health innovation. subsequent years, it still remains modest rope’s most popular destinations for sum- An overhaul of the existing regulatory and well below its potential. After a de- mer holidays. Resorts offer modern hotels, regimes, simplification of administrative cline in 2010, bilateral merchandise trade traditional restaurants and a variety of requirements at all levels and a large intro- reached its peak last year (Cdn $164.5 amusement facilities. Bulgaria also has duction of e-services have improved the million), when it recorded growth of 44 mineral springs with nearby resorts and business environment. Better conditions percent over 2009. Bulgarian exports al- spas. The mineral and mud baths attract for new business and a favourable tax most tripled, while imports from Canada many guests yearly. policy (low tax rates in Europe and a sim- have remained relatively stable at between And don’t forget our high-quality plified tax system) should further encour- Cdn $50 million to $60 million in recent dry white wines or rich and fragrant red age economic development and foreign years. Major export items of Bulgaria are wines, grown only in designated geo- investments. precious metal residues, compound feed, graphic regions. Bulgaria is strongly committed to in- sheet iron, confectionery and bakery prod- Tourism to Bulgaria from Canada has creasing foreign investments and expand- ucts and automotive products. Imports increased over the last decade. About ing trade ties. Its strategic geographic from Canada include copper, vegetables, 6,000 Canadian citizens visited in 2000, location at the crossroads between Europe fish, electrical and chemical products. rising to almost 15,000 in 2011. Others are and Asia, north and south, makes it a Canadian direct investments in Bul- noticing, too — in 2011, nearly nine mil- gateway for foreign companies to vibrant garia remain very modest. At the end lion foreign tourists visited. Don’t miss the regional markets. Despite the distance, bi- of 2011, their total volume amounted to chance to become one of them. lateral economic relations with Canada are only Cdn $17.5 million. Most — includ- among the priorities in the government’s ing Dundy Precious Metals, Euromax Zlati Katzarski is chargé d’affaires of agenda. Resources and Mundoro Capital — are in Bulgaria in Canada. Reach him at zlati. We understand the importance of the mining. [email protected] or 613-857-7200.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 29 aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON DI SPATCHES| JAPAN Islands ian Aleut Petropavlovsk North Paci c Bering Sea Sea of Japan Sea of n Okhotsk li

Sakha Khabarovsk Gulf of Alaska Provideniya Bering Magadan Anchorage Strait Anadyr Nome Valdez Okhotsk USA Fairbanks Pevek Whitehorse

Barrow Chukchi Sea Prudhoe Bay East Siberian Yakutsk Sea Fort McMurray Beaufort Sea Yellowknife New Siberian Tiksi Islands NORTH WEST NORTH EAST PASSAGE PASSAGE (NORTHERN SEA ROUTE) Laptev Sea Cambridge Bay CANADA Arctic Ocean Queen Churchill Elizabeth Islands Severnaya Gjoa Haven Resolute North Pole Zemlya

Hudson 90˚N Noril’sk Repulse Bay Bay Dikson Kara Pond Alert Sea RUSSIA Inlet Franz Qaanaaq Josef Land and (Russia) Isl Ban Yamal Peninsula ffin Bay Ba Novaya Salekhard Iqaluit 80˚N Zemlya GREENLAND Longyearbyen Svalbard Barents and l (Denmark) (Norway) Sea

nd Ilulissat Davis Strait ou Sisimuit f Yekaterinburg

New Nuuk Greenland Ittoqqortoormiit Sea Hammerfest Perm Murmansk Labrador Qaqortoq Sea Jan Mayen 70˚N Tromso Arkhangel’sk (Norway) Norwegian Kiruna Sea Reykjavik ICELAND FINLAND EDEN St. Petersburg SW Helsinki North Atlantic Ocean Moscow Faroe Islands AY W (Denmark) R StockholmBaltic 60˚N NO Sea THE ARCTIC OCEAN AND Oslo THE ’PACK OF EIGHT’ North Sea Copenhagen UK 30 Berlin FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC London Black GERMANY Sea aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES

The Arctic opening: Opportunities and risks in the high north

n 2011, Russia used the Vladimir Tikhonov, its big supertanker, to carry 120,000 tons of gas concentrates across its northern sea route Ito China — setting records along the way. (It crossed 2,220 nautical miles of northern Arctic seas in 7.5 days.) In the same year, the Japanese- owned Sanko Odyssey carried 66,000 tons of iron-ore concentrate from Russia’s Kola Peninsula to Jingtang. In 2012, Norway’s Ribera del Duero

Knutsen, the world’s largest-ever bulk carrier, transported a first-ever arctic opening: Opportunity and Risk in the High North cargo of LNG (liquid natural gas) from Norway to Japan. Russia’s north- east Arctic passage has become a global short-cut from Europe to Asia — with 34 voyages already booked for such passages this year. RCTIC.HTML Radical technological and economic change is pervasive in the Arc-

tic. What’s next? Cargo vessels that safely sail the Arctic seas without GEOPOLITICS S/REFMA P_A 60°N ECOSYSTEM

EXTREME CLIMATE -48°C needing icebreakers? With Arctic carriers costing as much as $1 billion REPUTATIONAL RISK to build and a decade to complete, such a fantasy proposal might seem eminent folly. For the record, Finland’s already working on them. In this special report on the Arctic 2013, Diplomat features excerpts Lloyd’s of London served as sponsor and contributor to Arctic Opening:

P S/THE-WORLDFACTBOOK/MA from an important new work (Arctic Opening: Opportunity and Risk in the Opportunity and Risk in the High High North) by the celebrated British author Charles Emmerson, who North, which was written and pub- lished by Chatham House, a London- also wrote the 2011 best-seller called The Future of the History of the Arctic. based think tank. The lead author was We do so for a number of reasons — among them the symbolic return English writer Charles Emmerson, who of Canada to the leadership of the Arctic Council, the premier forum of worked with key academics to pro- duce this report. Diplomat publishes the eight Arctic states. (Canada held this office last in 1996, the council’s this excerpt with the express permis- inaugural year.) Beginning in May, Health Minister Leona Aglukkaq will sion of Lloyd’s and of Chatham House. N S://WWW.CIA.GOV/LIBRARY/PUBLICATIO assume the leadership role in an organization described by Arctic Open- ing as an international organization that now faces “far-reaching political developments.” ACTBOOK, HTT P F For the transformation of archaic seas are dramatically reshaping the ORLD W world's shipping lanes — always a major agent in the shaping of history. HE T Simply put, the world looks like a very different place these days from the top down. TED FROM CIA: DA P A DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 31 RCE: SOU DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON

mately one-twentieth of one percent of the vironmental disaster — whether due to It's no longer world’s total population. a single event, or as a cumulative result The combined effects of global resource of increased economic activity — could the Arctic – it's depletion, climate change and techno- rapidly and significantly change the Arc- logical progress mean the natural resource tic’s political and economic dynamics. the eight Arctics base of the Arctic — fisheries, minerals Still more acutely than elsewhere in the and oil and gas — is now increasingly world, economic development and envi- significant and commercially viable. At the ronmental sustainability in the Arctic are same time, economic value is beginning to co-dependent. be attached to the Arctic natural environ- If current patterns continue, however, By Charles Emmerson ment, both for its role in regulating global investment in the Arctic could potentially climate and for its biodiversity. This is giv- reach $100 billion or more over the next The Arctic region is undergoing unprec- ing rise to prospecting for commercially 10 years, largely in the development of edented and disruptive change. Its climate viable biological processes and materials. non-renewable natural resources, and in is changing more rapidly than anywhere The wind and hydro-power potential of infrastructure construction and renewal. else on earth. Rising temperatures are some parts of the Arctic is being explored. For some, this prospect represents a sub- causing a retreat of sea ice and changes to The regions are attracting a growing stantial business opportunity. But it also seasonal length, weather patterns and eco- number of tourists. Shipping activity has brings a unique and complex set of risks systems. These changes have prompted a expanded and intercontinental shipping, and raises significant policy dilemmas. re-assessment of economic and develop- though several decades away from reach- ment potential in the Arctic and are giving ing anything approaching the scale of One Arctic, many Arctics rise to a set of far-reaching political devel- existing major shipping routes, is a devel- This report uses a broad definition of the opments. oping commercial reality. Arctic, corresponding most closely to that Although traditional Arctic products — Different regional and global economic used by the Arctic states themselves. This mostly relating to fishing, sealing, whal- scenarios suggest a range of possible fu- encompasses land and sea areas north of ing and trapping — have long reached ture trajectories for Arctic development. 60° for the United States, Canada, Russia, global markets and been influenced by Key uncertainties over future environ- Norway, Sweden and Finland and the global demands, before the 20th Century mental conditions and the scale and ac- whole of Greenland and Iceland. the overall role and scale of the Arctic in cessibility of Arctic natural resources are In the end, however, there is not one the global economy was minimal. The compounded by uncertainty about the Arctic, but many. Environmental condi- population of the Arctic — comprising the pace of technological development, the tions, geological prospectivity, physical Arctic areas of Canada, Denmark (Green- price of hydrocarbons, the future shape accessibility, population levels, economic land), Finland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway, and demands of the global economy and development and political salience all Russia and the United States — is approxi- the political choices of Arctic states. En- vary. The balance of risk and opportunity for major Arctic development projects de- pends on a range of further factors: • For oil and gas developments, there is a key distinction between onshore and offshore developments, between shallow water offshore and deep water offshore, and between developments close to exist- ing pipelines and transport infrastructure and those that would require the construc- tion of entirely new pipelines and infra- structure. • For Arctic shipping, the widely vary- ing quality of seabed mapping in different parts of the Arctic, and disparities in port infrastructure, surveillance and search and rescue capability, create an uneven matrix of risk and opportunity. • The Arctic is not — nor is it likely to become — a truly single regulatory space, even while the Arctic Council, Arctic states and other interested parties are increas- ingly forging common approaches to shared challenges. KLER FIN One Arctic, many temperatures ARALD H On an average day in January, the mini- mum temperature in Tromsø in northern Nuuk, the site of the May 2012 Arctic Council ministerial meetings. Norway will be -6.7°C. In Salekhard,

32 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES GE N. HEN HARLY HARLY OAST GUARD/ C C . U. S

The U.S. Coast Guard cutter Healy breaks ice in Nome Harbour, Alaska. capital of Russia’s Yamal-Nenets district The feedback loops that explain this portion had declined to five percent. and focus of Russia’s Arctic natural gas process are collectively known as ‘Arctic prospects, it will be -29.7°C. In Tiksi, on amplification.’ Reductions in sea ice and Infrastructure the east Siberian shoreline, it will be colder snow cover are one factor: As the Arctic Existing infrastructure — buildings, still: -36.7°C. becomes less white, it absorbs more heat bridges, roads, railways and pipelines Across the Bering Strait and far inland, and reflects less. But there are also factors — built on permafrost will become more the temperature in Fairbanks, Alaska will that relate to cloud and wind patterns, expensive to maintain as the permafrost be -28.1°C. It will not be much different themselves affected by broader climate layer across northern Alaska, Canada and in Iqaluit, capital of Canada’s Nunavut change and the enhanced movement of Russia becomes unstable. territory. Meanwhile, in Nuuk, capital moisture and heat from the equator to- A shortening season for winter roads of Greenland and part of the kingdom wards the poles. (temporary roads carved out of snow or of Denmark, it will be relatively warm: ice) is already creating access challenges around -10°C. The ice for communities and mine sites across What unites the Arctic, however, is the In September 2011, the month when Arc- northern Canada. Winter road seasons rate at which it is warming and the speed tic sea ice extent is typically at its lowest, for travel across northern Alaskan tundra of change this implies for its natural envi- ice coverage fell to a low of 4.33 million have declined from over 200 days in the ronment as a whole — transforming the square kilometres (1.67 million square 1970s to around 100 days in the early Arctic’s geography, ecosystems and how it miles), some 2.38 million square kilome- 2000s. People and some goods can be relates to the rest of the world. tres less than the 1979-2000 average. The flown in by air, albeit at considerable ex- NSIDC (U.S. National Snow and Ice Data pense, but heavy machinery cannot. Climate Change: Global Early-Warning Center) records show ice extent lower in Given conditions of rapid change in the The Arctic is not only warming — it is only one other year, 2007, when it reached physical environment, Arctic infrastruc- warming more rapidly than anywhere else 4.17 million square kilometres. ture will need to adapt to a much wider on earth, acting as an early-warning signal Arctic ice is also both thinner and range of potential environmental condi- for the globe. In 2011, annual near-surface younger than it used to be. In the early tions over the course of a multi-decade air temperatures over much of the Arctic 1980s, the NSIDC estimated that as much life. This means that all across the north, Ocean were 1.5°C warmer than the 1981- as 40 percent of Arctic September ice was future infrastructure will have to conform 2010 baseline. more than five years old. In 2011, that pro- to different technical specifications, and

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 33 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON -NAVY RAGGS/U S B SO HO N EOMA N ALP Y HIEF C

Polar bears approach the bow of a U.S. submarine while it surfaced 450 kilometres from the North Pole.

may be more expensive to build. ers of global sea level rise. The influx of and losers. As with sea ice, changes in eco- A good example of the double-edged increased amounts of freshwater into systems can be discontinuous and abrupt. consequences of climate change on access the North Atlantic … could have conse- Marine ecosystems inter-relate in previ- is the (sub-Arctic) port of Churchill in quences for weather patterns. ously unexpected ways. northern Manitoba, one end of the long- Northward-moving fish stocks in- promised ‘Arctic Bridge’ from northern Ecosystems on the edge evitably alter the balance in the ecosystem Canada to Murmansk in northern Russia. As the prevailing environmental condi- into which they migrate, including out- While maritime access to Churchill has tions in the Arctic change, so do the competing or preying upon established increased in recent years, creating the pos- living ecosystems adapted to those partic- Arctic species. sibility of expanding sea-borne grain ex- ular conditions. Some benefit from climate Some invasive species — introduced ports, the periodic thawing of permafrost change: At the bottom of the marine food as a result of greater human activity — on which the single-track railway line to chain, primary production by phytoplank- can destroy existing ecosystems. Though Churchill is built can cause the track to ton in the Arctic increased by 20 percent the impact of increased ocean noise from buckle. This increases the risk of derail- between 1998 and 2009 (and the increase shipping on those is not clear, it is likely to ments, slows traffic and sometimes halts has been as much as 70 percent in the Kara have a negative impact on marine mam- it altogether. Millions of dollars have been Sea and 135 percent in the Siberian sectors mals that use acoustics for prey location spent on repairing the line, but the costs of of the eastern Arctic Ocean). and navigation. upgrading it permanently would be much On land, the Arctic is becoming increas- At the same time, air- and sea-borne greater. ingly green. Some lose: walrus and polar pollution from the industrialized south, bear populations have tended to decline such as persistent organic pollutants The importance of Greenland because of reductions in sea ice, while (POPs), can pose a serious challenge to The main global consequence of Arctic ocean acidification due to increased car- ecosystems that, in the Arctic, tend to environmental change is through a di- bon dioxide uptake in warmer seas can be relatively simple, vulnerable and dif- minishing Greenland ice sheet [which] harm some marine life and the fisheries ficult to re-establish. The increasing rate contains approximately 2.85 million cubic associated with them. Others adapt: some of disruption to Arctic ecosystems makes kilometres of freshwater. fishstocks have moved, and flourished, as their future structure increasingly hard For a range of reasons — including a result of warmer waters. to predict. It also makes establishing meltwater lubrication of the underside of In the short term, cod stocks in the environmental baseline data — against glaciers, feedback mechanisms and the Barents Sea and off the coast of Greenland which change is measured and potential general trend of global warming — the have become more productive, and have future changes are assessed — even more rate of decline is accelerating. Total ice moved further north than ever. Over time, important. sheet loss in 2011 was 70 percent greater however, the impacts of climate change — than the average of 2003-2009. The rate and greater economic development — are Vast Arctic oil and gas potential of Greenland melt is one of the key driv- more complex than identifying winners The price of oil has increased. In 2008, the

34 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES

United States Geological Survey estimated resulting in significant price differences LKAB’s Seqi Olivine mine. The opening that the Arctic contained some 412.2 bil- between markets — there are currently of coastal areas of Greenland to develop- lion barrels of undiscovered oil and oil low natural gas prices in North America ment, partly as a result of climate change, equivalent. More than two-thirds of this and high ones in East Asia. However, gas has increased the potential attraction of was estimated to be natural gas — ap- is increasingly marketed internationally a range of other projects including gold, proximately 46 trillion cubic metres, repre- in LNG form. Prices for gas could change platinum and rare earth metals with high- senting 30 percent of global undiscovered dramatically if prices were decoupled technology applications at the Kvanefjeld natural gas (approximately equivalent to from oil, or if there is a move towards a deposit. Greenland’s government does Russia’s entire current proven reserves of global price, as with oil, or if significant not currently allow development of the natural gas). new gas supplies come on stream. island’s well-known uranium deposits, Some 90 billion barrels were estimated Shale gas production in the U.S., for though its stance on exploration has re- to be oil — 13 percent of the estimated example, has already led companies to cently been partially relaxed. global total of undiscovered oil, approxi- drop out of the $30–$40 billion project to In Canada, mining accounts for half mately three times the current total proven pipe gas from Alaska’s North Slope to U.S. the income of the Northwest Territo- reserves of oil of the United States and and Canadian markets. In Asian markets, ries and geological mapping is strongly more than three times the proven reserves Arctic LNG would have to compete with supported by the federal government. of the world’s largest non-state oil com- Australian and other Asian sources. In Diamond mining north of Yellowknife has pany, ExxonMobil. time, the continental United States may expanded rapidly. Between 2003 and 2008, The balance of oil and gas across the itself become a significant exporter if natu- total spending at a single mine, the Diavik Arctic will vary. In general, the Russian ral gas production is not diverted to its diamond mine, amounted to $4 billion, of Arctic is considered to be more gas-prone transport sector. which a substantial share was with local and the offshore Norwegian and Ameri- There is considerable variation amongst businesses. The Mary River iron ore proj- can Arctics (including Greenland) more Arctic hydrocarbon projects. This has im- ect on Baffin Island in Canada’s Nunavut oil-prone. Most Arctic hydrocarbon re- plications for their commercial viability, territory is due to enter development in sources are likely to be on the near-shore and for the business, operational and envi- 2013 and will require an estimated $4.1 bil- continental shelves of the Arctic states. ronmental risks associated with develop- lion of direct investment up to 2040. All these estimates are highly uncertain. ing them. The estimated cost of producing In northern Scandinavia, there are min- Drilling data is scarce relative to highly a barrel of Arctic oil ranges from $35 to ing prospects across northern Sweden and developed areas such as the North Sea or $100 (production costs in the Middle East Finland, and iron mines in Kirkenes (in the Gulf of Mexico. are sometimes as little as $5 per barrel). northern Norway) and Kiruna. The latter is the world’s largest underground iron Potential petro payoffs Government take ore mine and the world’s largest Arctic Expectations that the price of oil will re- A recent study suggested that, at a sale mine — yet most of the ore is currently main in the $80-$120 range in real terms price of $80 and a production price of $25, unmined. for the foreseeable future provide a strong the government take for Arctic oil projects incentive for exploration and increase would range from 100 percent in Russia Fishing confidence that prices will cushion the (though this is changing) to 40–45 percent Fish represent 90 percent of the exports of high costs of Arctic development. How- in Greenland and Canada. As govern- Greenland, 33 percent of those of Iceland, ever, global energy markets are in flux. ments offer incentives for development, approximately 6 percent of Norway’s and Several studies suggest the potential of or as geological uncertainties are reduced, less than 1 percent of the export earnings a peak in global oil demand, rather than the government take is likely to shift. The of the United States and Russia. supply, leading to subsequent terminal Russian government’s terms for Yamal’s In 2011, exports of Norwegian cod decline and lower prices. A sustained oil LNG development are described as being amounted to $1.8 billion, and exports of price spike in the near term might acceler- “among the lowest in the world.” salmon from aquaculture some $4.8 billion. ate that process. Meanwhile, individual Arctic communi- The outlook for Arctic natural gas is Mining ties are almost wholly reliant on fisheries different. In the future, European Arctic At the time of writing, there are 25 mines and fish processing for their economic gas can be expected to reach consumers in operation in the Russian Arctic. These survival. Fishing communities are highly by pipeline, partly through existing Rus- include the mines of Norilsk Nickel, a sensitive to marine pollution, they are sian or Norwegian networks, and partly to large Russian diversified mining company, often politically powerful in proportion compensate for declining gas production the largest nickel producer in the world to their size and their interests may some- elsewhere in Europe and Russia. and a major producer of palladium and times be at odds with other economic The scope of this market is constrained platinum. activities, including shipping and oil and by the level of European demand. The In 2010, 36.8 percent of Alaska’s foreign gas development. Russian government intends to use Arctic (non-U.S.) export earnings came from In some places fishing activity has production to allow it to keep to its Euro- exports of zinc, lead, gold and copper, boomed in recent years. There were 30 pean commitments while attempting to generating $1.3 billion. The Red Dog mine fishing ship voyages in the Canadian Arc- capture a part of the growing Asian gas is one of the largest lead-zinc mines in tic in 2005, and 221 in 2010, by far the larg- market. the world, employing 700 people, mostly est component of all ship voyages in the The broader global dynamics of natu- year-round. Canadian Arctic. The Greenlandic shrimp ral gas are shifting, however. Natural gas Greenland is already home to a num- catch has grown by half again over the last is priced and sourced regionally, often ber of mines, such as Swedish company decade.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 35 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON

In the summer of 2012, the Korean-built volumes, total cargo has increased by a and Norwegian-owned Ribera del Duero factor of 10 in recent years (though from Knutsen was to become the first LNG a historically low level following the col- carrier to transit the Northern Sea Route, lapse of the Soviet Union). from Norway to Japan. Looking to the future, by the middle of Each of these voyages has had to take the coming century, Arctic conditions may on expensive icebreaker support, with have changed so much that a shipping ships capable of breaking through several route across the North Pole, bypassing the metres of ice, despite relatively little ice Northern Sea Route and the Northwest being encountered in 2010 and 2011. The Passage, becomes commercially viable. largest and most powerful icebreakers can cost up to $1 billion and take 8-10 years to Geopolitics of Arctic energy build. Hiring charges vary, but the average In the U.S., the opening of further areas cost for escort through the Northern Sea of the U.S. Arctic to exploration and, route is around $200,000. ultimately, development has strong sup- However, carrier ships able to travel port within Alaska, but limited support through ice of up to 1.5 metres without elsewhere. In Canada, Arctic energy

COMBAT CAMERA COMBAT icebreaker support have been developed and mining projects play into complex Stephen Harper says the North’s time has come. by the company Aker Arctic in Finland. federal politics and the domestic politics of indigenous peoples across the north. Canadian vs. Russian route In Greenland, exploration for offshore Maritime traffic A comparison of two often-cited Arctic hydrocarbons is widely accepted as a As shipping seasons extend, Arctic ship- shipping routes — the Northwest Passage pathway to greater economic prosperity ping costs are reduced and point-to-point through Canada’s Arctic and the North- and a guarantee of self-government. In demand increases, traffic is expected to ern Sea Route across the northern coast Norway, government and public support increase in future years. of Russia — suggests that the Northern for development is contingent on strong Already, each Arctic shipping season is Sea Route is more likely to be subject to environmental regulation. marked by a new development. In 2011, large-scale development over the next 10- There is a key geopolitical dimension to the Sovcomflot-owned Vladimir Tikhonov 20 years because of political support, pro- Arctic oil and gas developments, involv- became the first supertanker (Suezmax) to jected ice conditions and the development ing states’ power, stability and influence. sail the Northern Sea Route, with a cargo of onshore and offshore mineral resources This is particularly true of Russia, where of 120,000 tonnes of gas condensate. in the Russian Arctic. hydrocarbons represent 40 percent of Later that summer, the largest ever bulk The Northern Sea Route may ulti- export earnings and the state budget de- carrier crossed the Northern Sea Route mately become a major global energy cor- pends on taxes and royalties from hydro- when the Japanese-owned Sanko Odyssey, ridor between Russia and East Asia. While carbon production. Russia’s gas exports carrying 66,000 tonnes of iron ore concen- trans-Arctic shipping volumes along are a major feature of its geopolitical role trate, completed a voyage from the Rus- the Northern Sea Route are insignificant in Europe, while expanding oil and gas sian Kola Peninsula to Jingtang in China. compared with overall global shipping exports to China has become an important policy objective for the Russian govern- ment. Destination Via Suez Canal Through Northern Days Sea Route Saved Nonetheless, development of the Rus- sian oil and gas sector in the Arctic — Distance, Speed Days Distance, Speed Days particularly offshore –– depends to some Nm Knots Nm Knots extent on the participation of Western oil and gas firms with the technology and Shanghai, 12050 14.0 37 6500 12.9 xx viii 21 -16 management skills to develop them. The China development of Norwegian gas produc- tion, and the potential for export via exist- Busan, 12400 14.0 38 6050 12.9 19.5 -18.5 ing pipeline networks to which the United Korea Kingdom is connected, may reduce Eu- ropean dependence on other sources of Yokohama, 12730 14.0 39 5750 12.9 18.5 -20.5 gas. In November 2011, British company Japan Centrica signed a 10-year, £13-billion

Route Length (km) % accessible, 2000-2014 % accessible, 2045-2059 Accessibility change (%) relative to baseline Transit time (days), 2045-2059

Northwest Passage 9,324 63% 82% +30% -

Northern Sea Route 5,169 86% 100% +16% 11

‘North Pole’ Route 6,960 64% 100% + 56% 16

‘Arctic Bridge’ 7,135 100% 100% + 0% 15

Source: Reprinted by permission from Macmillan Publishers Ltd (Nature Climate Change) ‘Divergent long-term trajectories of human access to the Arctic’, Copyright 2011 68

36 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES INAGLORY ROCKE N B

An iceberg near Cape York, Greenland. The rate of the Greenland melt is one of the key drivers of global sea-level rise.

($20-billion) supply deal for natural gas of 1985 specifies $40 million for loss or from Norway, following a wider UK- damage, remediation and restoration. Norway memorandum of understanding However, neither applies in cases of fault on energy. or gross negligence, where liabilities are Increased oil and gas production in unlimited. Arctic North America is often presented Norway, Greenland and Russia do as a way of improving U.S. ‘energy secu- not set upper limits for companies. Even rity’, though export prospects to Asia may though much greater claims can be pur- ultimately trump home markets. Invest- sued through the courts where fault can ments across the Arctic are increasingly be established, some NGOs are argu- international — with interest from Indian, ing that the liabilities cap and extent of Chinese and South Korean companies. financial responsibility a company must demonstrate to win a lease put the public Liability purse under enormous risk. In allowing Whether the liability for damage to hu- investors without sufficient funds to pay man health and economic losses should be for the clean-up and reparations for a limited or unlimited is an ongoing debate large-scale environmental disaster, the cap in Canada and the U.S. General “unlim- is essentially a transfer of risk to the public ited liability” is often thought to create a sector to encourage investment. The estimated clean-up costs for the Ma- risk too great for investors, although some In the U.S., a company must demon- condo disaster are $40 billion. may accept it for specific aspects such as strate financial capability of up to $148 the loss of current and future fishing har- Some upper liability limits apply to million. This is a fraction of the estimated vest revenues. Apart from the damage to companies operating facilities in offshore $40 billion clean-up and compensation local economies, ecosystem damage and Alaska and Canada’s eastern Arctic. The costs for the Macondo disaster. A smaller degradation are notoriously difficult to U.S. Oil Pollution Act specifies a limit of company than BP, for example, might put a value on and are not currently ac- $74 million for economic damages, and have had to declare bankruptcy, leaving counted for under national regimes. the Canada Oil and Gas Operations Act the state to foot the bill. D

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 37 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON Arctic sovereignty: Who owns what? By Laura Neilson Bonikowsky

he Arctic is a stable region of eight such as the Japanese Sanko Odyssey, which nations that generally exhibit mu- in 2011 completed a trip from Russia’s Ttual trust and co-operation. The Kola Peninsula to Jingtang in China. key body concerned with the dialogue Such trips save weeks and thousands of among these states is the Arctic Council, kilometres of sailing. It must be noted that whose members include, in addition to climate change could negate UNCLOS the eight Arctic nations (Canada, U.S., provisions concerning ice-covered waters Denmark, Norway, Finland, Sweden, Rus- and initiate challenges to coastal states’ sia and Iceland), permanent participants legal rights to regulate shipping. and observers that are not Arctic nations, Arctic energy resources have become but nevertheless have an interest in the hot political topics, their development Arctic. The role of the Arctic Council is to politically controversial on environmen- KLER

facilitate ongoing co-operation between FIN tal grounds. As the Arctic economy be- Arctic states in the debate over who owns comes integrated into the global economy, ARALD and controls which parts of the Arctic. H its geopolitical relevance will increase. That debate excludes security but includes Leona Aglukkaq will chair the Arctic Council Within Arctic nations, exploration and environmental monitoring and the cre- when Canada takes over next year. development, federal politics, indigenous ation of common standards for shipping populations, economic prosperity, sustain- and oil and gas development. Beyond the EEZ, nations may exert ability and the environment all play a role. Ownership of the Arctic is mainly de- ownership of seabed resources on its The key geopolitical dimension to devel- termined by geography, scientific data, extended continental shelf, up to 350 oping Arctic oil and gas involves power, domestic law and international law as nautical miles (650 km). Establishing the stability and influence between the Arctic defined by the UN Convention on the limits of the continental shelf depends on states and with non-Arctic stakeholders, Law of the Sea (UNCLOS). All Arctic na- geological and geomorphological char- such as China, whose expanding oil and tions but the United States have ratified acteristics, which may require expensive gas imports from Russia have become an UNCLOS and several others — China, and extensive data collection. Nations important policy objective for the Russian India, Japan and South Korea — are also have 10 years to make submissions to the government. Investment in the Arctic is UNCLOS signatories, but have no role in Commission on the Limits of the Conti- becoming increasingly international. the Arctic Council and mainly economic nental Shelf (CLCS), which facilitates the In 2008, a separate caucus appeared to interest in the region. The region is conten- implementation of UNCLOS with regard emerge within the Arctic Council, made tiously open to claims from non-Arctic to establishing the limits of the continental up of the five coastal states (known as the countries; China’s unofficial position, re- shelf. A-5, they are: Canada, Denmark/Green- layed by Chinese Rear Admiral Yin Zhuo, In the case of boundary disputes, the land, Norway, Russia and the U.S.) More is that the “Arctic belongs to all the people parties must negotiate with each other significantly, the council is discussing around the world as no nation has sover- while CLCS may play an advisory role. criteria to be applied to permanent observ- eignty over it.” Among current disputes over Arctic ers; these criteria were established in 2011 Among the parameters defined by boundaries is the Northwest Passage, following disagreements between the Arc- UNCLOS are marine boundaries within which Canada maintains is within its in- tic states about how to address applica- which nations have economic rights over ternal waters. The U.S. and other nations tions from non-Arctic states, including the water and seabed resources. This exclu- dispute the claim. The United Kingdom European Union and China. A decision is sive economic zone (EEZ) stretches 200 considers both the Northwest Passage and expected in the spring of 2013. nautical miles (370 km) from the nation’s the Northern Sea Route, which is claimed Although Arctic governance lies prin- coastline; most energy development will by Russia, as existing within international cipally with the eight Arctic nations, their take place within this zone. Adjacent waters. domestic concerns, associations with states may disagree over maritime bor- In addition to determining sovereignty economic partners and security agencies, ders, particularly where they overlap geo- and ownership, international regulations and international agreements affect their graphically. Canada and the U.S. disagree must be established. Maritime traffic perspectives and their abilities to shape over their boundary in the Beaufort Sea, through the Arctic, already considerable, Arctic policy. and Norway and Russia had a 40-year dis- is a major interest among Arctic and non- pute over a boundary in the Barents Sea Arctic nations. The Northern Sea Route Laura Neilson Bonikowsky is an Alberta that was settled in 2010. has already seen transits by supertankers writer. Reach her at [email protected]

38 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES The Arctic, country by country Our eight-country primer takes you to each of the council’s member states and offers a break- down of their Arctic territory, interests and claims. By Laura Neilson Bonikowsky

square kilometres, is the smallest of the world’s oceans. Three-quarters of its coast- line belongs to Canada and Russia, with each owning territory along the Arctic straits, which, increasingly, are becoming ice-free. According to international law, no country owns the Arctic Ocean or the geographic North Pole. Under the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea (UNCLOS, 1982), countries bordering the Arctic are entitled to the traditional 200 nautical mile economic zone from their coastlines. Canada asserts that the Arctic Archipelago, including the Northwest Passage, comprises internal waters, basing its claim on proximity and history. Can- ada’s original claim to the North lies in the 1670 charter by which Charles II gave Rupert’s Land to the Hudson’s Bay Com- pany. The area that is now the Northwest Territories and Nunavut was added in 1821. At the time, Great Britain and Rus- sia were the big players in the Arctic and their 1825 Boundary Treaty established the boundary between what is now Alaska and the Yukon along the 141st W merid- ian and as far as “the Frozen Ocean.” That treaty is important to Canada’s claim in the Arctic. The United States rejects the use of the 1825 treaty; Russia sold Alaska IERSZEWSKI

G to the U.S. in 1867. L U In 1870, the Hudson’s Bay Company PA transferred its title to the Dominion of Quttinirpaaq National Park on Canada’s Ellesmere Island Canada. A decade later Britain transferred to Canada the rest of its Arctic posses- sions, dubiously including “all Islands CANADA cent of Canada’s total 243,000 kilometre adjacent to any such territories” discov- Area: 9,984,670 sq km shoreline, including the shores of some ered or not. Canada seemed disinterested, Population: 34,476,688 (2012) 36,000 islands. Canada’s closest point to waiting until 1895 to pass an order-in- the North Pole is Cape Columbia, Elles- council accepting the transfer, and only anada’s frigid Arctic is definitely mere Island, 769 kilometres from the pole. sporadically undertook ventures to secure something to get hot and bothered So closely is Canada aligned with the Arctic sovereignty, sending explorers such Cabout. It makes up more than 40 image of snow and ice in the global per- as Joseph-Elzéar Bernier (1904 to 1911) and percent of the country’s land mass; is spective that we could consider the Arctic Vilhjalmur Stefansson (1906 to 1918) to home to 100,000 Canadians, 80 percent landscape as the representative face of leave plaques or cairns and raise flags on of whom are indigenous peoples; and the Canada. several islands, including Ellesmere and Arctic coastline comprises nearly 75 per- The Arctic Ocean, at 14,056 million Melville.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 39 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON REAMSTIME D

An Arkhangelsk factory in the gulf of White Sea in Russia.

The first real assertion of Canadian sov- resources and their development is vital ing toward developing its oil and natural ereignty came in 1903 with a North West to the northern economy. The diamond in- gas reserves, of which 70 percent are in the Mounted Police post on Herschel Island. dustry is lucrative, with production of $2.1 country’s continental shelf. Later, the RCMP operated a post office on billion in 2011. Minerals extracted from Historically, Russia’s Arctic focus has Bache Peninsula, although no one lived Canada’s north include copper, zinc-silver, been the region within its landmass, but near it; despite once-a-year mail delivery, tungsten, gold and nickel; metals sought it once owned Alaska. In 1859, financially the operation of a post office was proof of in the north include rare earth elements, challenged after the Crimean War with sovereignty. In 1926, Canada established cobalt, and the platinum group elements. Great Britain, Russia offered to sell Alaska the Arctic Islands Game Preserve, assert- It is the search for energy resources that to the U.S., fearing Alaska’s proximity to ing the protection of the natural environ- should concern humanity the most, for a British colony would make it difficult ment as affirmation of authority. the sake of sovereignty and security, but to defend in another war against Britain. Canada’s claim of Arctic sovereignty mostly for the plight of our environment. The Alaska Purchase was delayed by the has largely been predicated on cost, with American Civil War but in 1867, the U.S. expenditure justified by what is present RUSSIA bought Alaska for $7.2 million. to be protected. Culture, national identity, Area: 17,098,242 sq km In the 1930s, a growing fleet of Soviet infrastructure development and the envi- Population: 141,930,000 (2012) icebreakers worked at opening the Arctic. ronment have featured insignificantly in The Sedov established a polar station on our actions. The Macdonald government ussia takes its presence in the Frantz Josef Land, creating the world’s of the 1880s considered the Arctic “worth- Arctic seriously. Its Arctic bound- northernmost settlement, and a second less” but we know now that is not true. Rary is 24,140 kilometre long and its station was established near the Severnaya What is at stake in the current drive to closest point to the North Pole is Cape Zemlya archipelago. Two non-stop cross- establish sovereignty over the Arctic is the Fligely, Rudolf Island, 911 kilometre from ings of the passage were made, northward potential for ice-free shipping routes — the pole. Russia claims the Northern Sea in 1932 and in 1933 from Murmansk to the sea lanes created by climate change — as Route (also known as the Northeast Pas- Pacific. well as significant natural resources, espe- sage), a claim contested by the United In 1937, the Soviet Union established a cially oil and gas. The Northwest Territo- States, which considers it an international North Pole drifting station on a large ice ries’ Mackenzie Gas project alone holds 81 route. floe. It was established and resupplied by trillion cubic feet of natural gas and seven Arctic security, potential shipping several aircraft and manned by four brave billion barrels of oil. Nunavut is estimated routes and energy resources concern explorers — Ivan Papanin, Peter Shirshov, to hold a quarter of Canada’s conventional Russia. Gas and oil reserves would be a Evgeny Fedorov and Ernest Krenkel. They oil reserves and, in the eastern Arctic near valuable political tool for Russia in the Eu- took measurements, collected water and Baffin Island, the oil potential is estimated ropean energy market. Moscow estimates seabed soil samples, and made meteoro- at 10 to 30 billion barrels. Besides energy there are a billion barrels of oil in the Trebs logical observations while their icy camp resources, the North is rich in mineral and Titov deposits alone. Russia is work- drifted for 274 days across 2,600 kilometre

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from the North Pole to the Greenland Sea UNITED STATES mined that the strait’s geographic situa- before the station was evacuated by an Area: 9,826,675 square km tion connecting two parts of the high seas icebreaker. The researchers disproved the Population: 312,780,968 (2012) and its use for international navigation common perception of a lifeless Arctic in which vessels pass within 12 nautical and proved that there are no landmasses he United States’ Arctic coastline miles of one or more coastal states estab- or islands at the North Pole. Their polar is a mere 1,706 kilometres, but the lishes a right to pass through the strait weather observations made possible to- Teconomic potential represented by without coastal state permission. This day’s routine air routes across the Arctic. Alaska is great, as is a northern presence does seem to be a relevant rationale for Unknown to the West, the Soviets for security and trade, although in the allowing unrestricted passage in the north. established a second drifting station minds of most, Alaska barely registers as However, the Strait of Corfu is un- — North Pole-2 — in 1950, which deter- a state. The United States’ closest point to like either the Northwest Passage or the mined that more observation of the Arctic the North Pole is Point Barrow, Alaska, Northern Sea Route, which the U.S. also was required. Arctic studies continued un- which is 2,078 kilometre from the pole. argues is an international marine thor- til North Pole-31 was terminated in 1991. The U.S. is interested in the Arctic oughfare. The northern routes comprise During that time, 88 polar crews worked Ocean for its sea routes and insists that multiple passages between islands, each on the floating stations, drifting nearly the Northwest Passage is an “international of which has complex topographical and 170,000 kilometre. The value of the infor- strait,” citing as its precedent the criteria environmental concerns. On two occa- mation gained was unequalled in the 20th established by the International Court of sions, the U.S. sent surface vessels through Century, and the drifting stations were Justice (ICJ) in 1949 in the Corfu Chan- the Northwest Passage without asking taken up once more when North Pole-32 nel Case (the United Kingdom versus Canada’s consent: the SS Manhattan, an was established in 2003. Albania). In 1946, in the Corfu Strait, two icebreaking super-tanker, in 1969, and In 2001, Russia filed a formal claim to British destroyers hit mines in Albanian the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Polar Sea in UNCLOS for 1.2 million square kilometres waters and sustained damage and loss of 1985. Most Canadian specialists argue that along the Lomonosov and Mendeleev life. The matter was referred by the UN these two transits are insufficient to fulfill ridges to the North Pole. In 2007, after Security Council to the ICJ, which deter- the “used for international navigation” the UN refused the claim, Russia staked a symbolic claim to the Arctic by dropping a canister containing the Russian flag on the ocean floor from a submarine at the geo- graphic North Pole, declaring, “The Arctic is ours, and we should demonstrate our presence.” Though a creative endeavour, such symbolic acts are insufficient proof of sovereignty under international law. Russia began increasing its Arctic mili- tary presence in 2007. Shortly after the flag was ”planted,” then-president Vladimir Putin ordered the resumption of regular air patrols over the Arctic Ocean and the Russian Navy expanded its presence for the first time since the Cold War (United States Strategic Studies Institute). In July 2011, Russia began undersea mapping of the continental shelf and Putin announced the country’s willingness to negotiate with its Arctic neighbours, adding “of course we will defend our own geopolitical in- terests firmly and consistently.” Defence was clear in Moscow’s decision to build six icebreakers and commit $33 billion to constructing a year-round Arctic port. Russia’s Arctic region contains vast min- eral wealth, including nickel, copper, coal, gold, uranium, tungsten and diamonds. In 2010, Russia and Norway concluded a 44-year dispute over the Barents Sea. ERTL

Under the precedent-setting treaty, the M countries will split a 175,000 square kilo- HER metre area. Estimates of reserves in the HRISTO P region vary, but are in the order of 4 billion C barrels of oil and 878 trillion cubic feet of A modern Alaskan Alutiiq dancer in traditional festival garb. gas. (See Norway’s take on page 48.)

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 41 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON

criterion. American analysts respond that ing to fisheries. DENMARK the ICJ did not specify a threshold, and The U.S. pursues its claims “as an Area (continental): 43,098 sq km some of them argue that prospective use independent, sovereign nation,” relying Greenland area: 2,166,086 sq km is enough. partly on President Harry Truman’s proc- Population (continental): 5,584,758 (2012) In 1945, the United States claimed lamation that any hydrocarbons or other Population Greenland: 57,695 (July 2011 est.) jurisdiction over the natural resources of resources discovered beneath the Ameri- its continental shelf beyond its territorial can continental shelf is the property of the enmark is a tiny Scandinavian limits; other nations quickly followed suit. United States. The country can defend its monarchy well south of the Arctic In 1967, to satisfy the need for changes to claims through bilateral negotiations and DCircle; continental Denmark is the law of the seas, the United Nations un- in multilateral venues such as the 2008 not considered part of the North, but its dertook a conference comprising a series Arctic Ocean Conference in Greenland, colonial territory, Greenland, gives the of sessions spanning 15 years to produce but it must determine how far into the country a role in the Arctic sovereignty a comprehensive set of laws known as the Arctic Ocean its continental shelf extends. dispute. Denmark’s closest point to the United Nations Convention on the Law of Canada realizes that cooperation between North Pole is Kaffeklubben Island, Perry the Sea, or UNCLOS. The convention be- the two countries would be mutually ben- Land, 707 kilometres from the pole. came effective on Nov. 16, 1982, and recog- eficial for development of northern gas Denmark’s interests, like those of the nizes a nation’s sovereignty over natural reserves as well as energy and national Arctic countries, lie in exploiting energy resources within 200 nautical miles and security and defence (eg, NORAD). The resources and increasing trade routes. Us- allows territorial claims up to 350 nautical NORAD Region in Alaska has regained its ing the Northern Sea Route instead of the miles from shore provided the country can former relevance with Russia’s increased Suez Canal would cut 7,000 kilometres off prove that its continental shelf extends military presence in the Arctic. the trip from Rotterdam to Tokyo, saving beyond the 200-mile limit. There is noth- Natural resources are vital to Alaska’s both time and fuel costs. ing in the convention to compel the Arctic economy and to the U.S. economy over- Denmark was once a European super- countries to accept the UN’s rulings on all. In addition to oil and gas, Alaska’s power with influence as great as that of competing claims. UNCLOS has 160 mem- resources include timber, fish, coal, gold, the largest European nations. In fact, it ber countries; the United States is not one diamonds, mercury, platinum and copper. ruled England from 1015 to 1034 and es- of them, though the other Arctic countries The state’s oil potential is huge; the North tablished colonies in the Caribbean in the are. The U.S. disagrees with Part XI of UN- Slope alone holds roughly 100 billion bar- 17th Century. Its current size and influ- CLOS, which deals with minerals found rels of recoverable oil. Alaska’s natural gas ence is “the result of 400 years of forced on the seabed of the Exclusive Economic potential is estimated to be more than 200 relinquishments of land, surrenders and Zone (within the 200-mile limit), although trillion cubic feet, with roughly 163 trillion lost battles,” according to its official web- it has agreed to UNCLOS provisions relat- cubic feet of that in the North Slope. site. Denmark’s association with Green- S BUU RGAARD NIELSE N JE N

Scenery from Ravnefjeldet, Nanortalik (the southernmost part of Greenland).

42 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES

Aurora Borealis — the Northern Lights — in Kiruna, the northernmost city in Sweden. land reaches back to the explorations of the depth of silt across the Arctic shallows claim the North Pole seabed by 2014. the Norse, who established colonies on to the composition of rock 4,000 metres Its Arctic priorities lie in its control of the island in the 10th Century. The Norse beneath the ocean’s surface. The ridge’s Greenland’s foreign affairs, security and colonies disappeared in the 15th Century geological origins are less clear; it is likely financial policy, including its Exclusive and Greenland remained under the rule that each claim will be proven correct to Economic Zone, in consultation with the of the joint kingdom of Denmark-Norway, some extent. home rule government of Greenland. Den- which existed from 1536 to 1814. It became In addition to the Lomonosov Ridge, mark also owns the rights to the majority a colony of Denmark in 1814 and in 1953, Denmark and Canada both claim owner- of Greenland’s strategic resources — gold, it became part of the Commonwealth of ship of Hans Island (part of Nunavut, diamonds, natural gas and oil and iceberg the Realm of Denmark. In 1979, Denmark according to Canada), a mere speck in the water, which is very much in demand as granted Greenland home rule and, in oceans of dispute over Arctic sovereignty. bottled water. 2009, Greenland became an autonomous It is a tiny (1.3 square kilometres) un- territory, with power transferred from populated island in the Kennedy Channel SWEDEN the monarchical government to the local between Ellesmere Island and Greenland. Area: 450,295 sq km government. It was discovered in 1871 by American Population: 9,507,324 (2012) Denmark has only recently begun to explorer Charles Francis Hall, who named make claims to the Arctic, jumping into it for his guide, Hans Hendrik. Denmark weden is the third-largest country the fray with the other members of the claims the island is geologically part of in the European Union and a con- “Arctic Five” (Canada, Russia, Norway Greenland and is closer to Greenland than Sstitutional monarchy. Only a small and the United States), arguing that the to Ellesmere Island. Canada argues that portion of its northern region lies above Lomonosov Ridge — the same ridge Rus- the claim has lapsed because Denmark has the Arctic Circle. Its most northerly point sia claims — is an extension of Greenland. not enforced sovereignty over it. Cartogra- is roughly 2,000 kilometres from the Norway contests the claim and Canada phers from both countries depict it as part North Pole. The Arctic region — Lapland has also claimed the ridge (in 2010). of their respective countries. The seabed — is inhabited by the indigenous Sámi, The ridge is a towering fold in the surrounding the island has oil and the whose total population of roughly 70,000 ocean floor. It crosses the Arctic Ocean island offers a staging point for offshore is spread across Sweden, Norway, Finland from the continental margin of North rigs. In 1971, Canada and Denmark signed and Russia. Like continental Denmark America between Greenland and Elles- a treaty delimiting the island’s continental and Finland, Sweden does not have an mere Island and continues nearly 1,800 shelf and since have taken turns planting Arctic coastline but it is a nation closely kilometres past the geographic North flags, leaving bottles of their own coun- tied to the sea by its geographic connec- Pole to the continental edge of Russia in tries’ alcohol (schnapps for Denmark, tion to the Gulf of Bothnia, the Baltic the Laptev Sea. On the North American Canadian Club for Canada), and running Sea and the Atlantic Ocean and would side, there is a wide plateau and, on the military exercises, continuing the 30-year benefit from access to trade routes in the Siberian side, the ridge breaks into other dispute that negotiators said in 2011 was Arctic Ocean. The country is a leader in ridges. Near the pole, the ridge appears nearing a resolution. ice-breaking operations and can support as a block splintered into a series of high Denmark presented its “Arctic Strat- commercial traffic in the Arctic. and low points. Surveys of the ridge have egy” to the UN in August 2011, ratifying What is now Sweden was once covered amassed an array of data that includes UNCLOS and outlining its intention to by a thick ice cap; as it retreated, people

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 43 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON

Sweden’s priorities in the Arctic as being related to “business and economic inter- ests in (the free trade area of) the Arctic and Barents Region” as well as “mining, petroleum and forestry; land transport and infrastructure; maritime security and the environmental impact of shipping; sea and air rescue; ice-breaking; energy; tourism; reindeer husbandry” and other endeavours such as information and com- munications technology and space tech- nology. But its first level of concern in the Arctic comprises facilitating multilateral cooperation; the environment and sustain- able development; and the human dimen- sion, particularly indigenous cultures of the North.

ICELAND

AR NÅ Area: 103,000 sq km K Population: 319,575 (2012) AVID AVID D

A major eruption at Eyjafjallajökull in Iceland. celand is a Northern European island nation situated northwest of the United IKingdom between the Greenland Sea migrated into the region and eventu- has not been involved in a war since the and the North Atlantic Ocean, on the ally an agrarian society was established. brief war with Norway in 1814 and since fringe of the Arctic Ocean. Its closest Sweden launched incursions into the sea the First World War has pursued a policy point to the North Pole is Kolbeinsey, Ey- during its Viking Age (800 to 1050), creat- of non-alignment in peacetime and neu- jafjorour, which is 2,552 kilometres from ing trade links with the Byzantine Empire trality in wartime. Its security is based on the pole. Iceland’s interior is uninhabit- and the Arab kingdoms. In 1280, King strong national defence. able due to a volcanic mountain plateau Magnus Ladulas established the nobility Sweden feels its ties to the Arctic of glaciers, lava fields and desert, but the and a society based on the feudal model. deeply. The country’s research into the coastal areas provide land for grazing and In the 14th Century, the kingdoms of Den- changing Arctic climate is of long stand- cultivation. The country has the highest mark, Norway and Sweden were joined ing; some of its measurement case studies literacy rate in the world. in the Kalmar Union under the rule of reach back 100 years, such as environmen- Iceland was first settled by renegade the Danish Queen Margareta. The union tal monitoring of temperature, precipita- Norwegian chieftains and their followers lasted from 1397 to 1521 and was marked tion, ice-thaw, flora and fauna. Sweden in the 9th and 10th centuries. Icelandic by violent internal conflicts such as the has contributed to the global understand- culture is based on these early Viking “Stockholm Bloodbath” in 1520 during ing of climate change and continues to settlements and it was this era that saw which 80 Swedish nobles were executed. analyze levels of known and new hazard- the first association between Iceland and After the dissolution of the Kalmar Union, ous substances in the fragile Arctic envi- what is now Canada. About 985 or 986, Sweden engaged in several wars with ronment. In addition, Sweden is the site an Icelandic flotilla led by Eric the Red set Denmark and became a great power in of research facilities, such as the Abisko out to colonize southwest Greenland. A northern Europe. It even founded a colony Scientific Research Station, that admin- trader, Brjarni Herjolfsson, belatedly sailed in North America, at what is now Dela- isters, coordinates and conducts tests for to join them but was blown off course. He ware; however the colony was short-lived. researchers around the world. The Tarfala became the first European verified to have As an agrarian nation, Sweden could not Research Station, in the Kebnekaise Moun- reached the North American mainland. maintain its powerful position for long. tains, conducts glacier monitoring, meteo- His first sighting of land was probably After its defeat in the Great Northern rological and hydrological analyses and Newfoundland, from which he coasted War (1700 to 1702) against the combined snow chemistry and permafrost studies. north. The more southerly lands he found forces of Russia, Poland and Denmark, Sweden was one of the founding mem- were well forested. In 1000, Leif Ericsson Sweden lost most of its possessions on the bers of the international cooperative body organized an expedition to explore sec- Baltic Sea and was reduced to what is now on Arctic matters. tions of the North American coast discov- Sweden and Finland. During the Napo- It launched its official Arctic strategy ered by Herjolfsson. Ericsson established a leonic Wars, Finland was surrendered to in May 2011, the last of the eight Arctic base camp in an area he called “Vinland,” Russia, but French marshal Jean Baptiste states, in response to growing interna- Land of Wine, because of its wild grapes. Bernadotte, elected heir to the Swedish tional pressure and domestic calls to do Vinland, according to archaeological evi- throne in 1810, forced Norway into a so. At the same time, Sweden took on dence, was probably the coastline of the union with Sweden in 1814 as compensa- chairmanship of the Arctic Council, a posi- Gulf of St Lawrence. tion. That union was dissolved in 1905 tion it will hold until 2013 when Canada Iceland has the world’s longest stand- after several internal disputes. Sweden takes over. The strategy document lists ing legislative assembly, the Althingi,

44 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES

Iceland’s role in determining Arctic sovereignty is complex. It is a member of the Arctic Council with Canada, Russia, the U.S., Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland. The European Union believes Iceland will provide it with influence over the Arctic and its resources, giving the EU a “voice in the Arctic and the North Atlantic dimension of the Union’s external policies.” Canada has protested any for- mal involvement in the Arctic by the EU, including participation as an observer, cit- ing Europe’s lack of understanding about recognizing North Atlantic and Arctic heritage and the livelihoods of northern nations. Iceland is not counted among the coastal nations (the “Arctic Five” com- prises Canada, Russia, the U.S., Denmark and Norway). The Icelandic government protested its exclusion from the group and a resolution passed by the Althingi in 2011 reinforced Iceland’s commitment to having an active role among the coastal nations. The question to be answered is whether Iceland or the European Union will become the coastal state.

NORWAY Area: 385,199 sq km Population: 4,950,000 (2012)

orway is a constitutional mon- ILLE T archy in Northern Europe. Its Nnearest point to the North Pole is

ANDREAS Rossoya Sjuoyane (Ross Island), Svalbard, 1,024 kilometres from the pole. Norway’s Gígjökull is an outlet glacier extending from Eyjafjallajökull, Iceland. history, like that of other Scandinavian countries, involves Vikings, who settled in the Orkney Isles, the Shetlands and which was established in 930 and, despite changes until it regained legislative power Hebrides, the Isle of Man and the north of changes in its role over the centuries, re- in 1874, when Iceland gained limited mainland Scotland and Ireland. Dublin, mains as the country’s legislature today. autonomy from Denmark; it attained com- which was founded by Vikings in the 9th The country was independent for more plete independence in 1944. Century, was under Norse rule until 1171. than 300 years before internal struggles let In 1875, the Askja volcano erupted and The Viking Age ended in 1066, when Nor- to it coming under the rule of Norway in the subsequent fallout devastated the wegian King Harald Hardruler and his 1262. The Althingi continued at this point, economy and caused extensive famine. men were defeated at the Battle of Stam- with the adoption of the Old Covenant, In the next 25 years, 20 percent of the ford Bridge in England. but its function changed to granting con- country’s population emigrated, mainly The late Middle Ages in Norway sent to the executive power of the king. to Canada, especially Manitoba, and the were marked by economic decline. The Iceland became a possession of the Kal- U.S. Icelanders had been coming to Can- plague and other epidemics decimated mar Union (1397 to 1521) when the king- ada since 1873; they established a colony the population during the 14th Century. doms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden known as New Iceland (now Gimli) on Economic depression brought political were united. When absolute monarchy the shores of Lake Winnipeg. Manitoba consequences; Denmark’s power was in- was established in Denmark in 1662, the was at the time an unorganized part of creasing. Lands and property passed into Althingi served a judicial function until the Northwest Territories and a reserve foreign hands, the Norwegian nobility 1800 when a royal decree demanded its was set aside by an order-in-council that shrank and Norway’s ability to assert it- abolition and its responsibilities were as- allowed New Iceland settlers to create self diminished. A union between Norway sumed by a high court. Iceland remained their own laws and maintain their own and Denmark was enforced by treaty from a Danish dependency when the joint king- schools. A series of natural disasters deci- 1450 and by 1536 Norway was no longer dom of Denmark-Norway dissolved in mated the population, initiating an exo- an independent kingdom. 1814. Another royal decree resurrected the dus to Winnipeg and North Dakota that In 1813, at the Battle of Leipzing, Napo- Althingi in 1843. Its role underwent several began in 1878. leon suffered a crushing defeat; among his

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 45 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON OLMGRE N H NNE HA

The Sami indigenous peoples’ Parliament in Karasjok, Norway.

opponents was the Kingdom of Sweden, joining the European Union in referenda fore its place in the Arctic sovereignty which wanted Norway as a safeguard held in 1972 and 1994. discussions, is vital to its economy. Its on its western border. Sweden’s allies Norway’s presence in the Arctic is second-most important resource, after had promised it could have Norway as a considerable and not restricted to its own hydropower, is petroleum from the conti- spoil of war. In January 1814, Danish King territories. Canada was the site of many of nental shelf, which is estimated at 13.2 bil- Frederick VI surrendered, severed his Norway’s Arctic achievements. Between lion standard cubic metres of recoverable ties with Napoleon, and gave Norway to 1898 and 1902, the intrepid Otto Sverdrup oil equivalents. Partly because of its ability Sweden, ending the four-centuries-long became known for his expedition to the to exploit its energy resources, and partly union of Norway and Denmark. Norway area of Ellesmere Island. In the course because of its ability to invest and save refused the cession of their country to of four winters in the ice, he discovered (via the Petroleum Fund), Norway posted Sweden and adopted a new constitution. several islands west of Ellesmere and a government budget surplus in 2011 that Sweden invaded Norway but agreed that mapped large portions of the high Arctic. was equal to 13.6 percent of its gross do- Norway could keep its constitution in ex- He became the first person to set foot on mestic product. change for accepting union under a Swed- the islands of Axel Heilberg, Ellef Ringnes ish king. King Frederick relinquished his and Amund Ringnes; even the Inuit had FINLAND power on Oct. 10, 1814. not visited them. Sverdrup claimed them Area: 338,144 sq km Increasing nationalism through the 19th for Norway. The claim was abandoned in Population: 5,402,758 (2012) Century led to a referendum in 1905 that 1931, and Canada paid Norway $67,000 granted Norway its independence. During for Sverdrup’s records. inland is a Northern European coun- the First World War, Norway remained Norwegian Roald Amundsen was the try bordered by Sweden, Norway neutral but suffered heavy shipping losses first to sail through the Northwest Pas- Fand Russia. Like Sweden and conti- due to the submarine war and mining of sage, in 1906, a feat that had eluded sailors nental Denmark, Finland is not bordered the seas. The war yielded financial gains, for three centuries. Amundsen set sail in by the Arctic Ocean. The Arctic Circle however, and Norway was able to recoup his sturdy vessel the Gjøa, equipped with crosses it about a third of the way south major companies that had passed into for- sails and a 13 horse-power motor and from its most northern point, neighbour- eign ownership. At the outset of the Sec- manned by a crew of six, sailed from the ing on Norway, which is roughly 1,700 ond World War, Norway again proclaimed Oslo Fjord through the ice-laden waters kilometres from the North Pole. Finland’s its neutrality but was occupied by the Na- of the passage. Along the way, they com- Arctic region — Lapland — is inhabited zis for five years, resulting in German ex- piled a wealth of scientific data, the most mainly by the Sámi. ploitation of the Norwegian economy and important of which concerned earth’s Archaeological evidence suggests that mass executions. In 1949, Norway joined magnetism and the exact location of the Finland was first settled during the Stone NATO. During the 1960s, the discovery of magnetic North Pole. Amundsen also led Age, around 8,500 BC, by itinerant hunter- oil and gas in adjacent waters improved a successful expedition to the South Pole. gatherers. The origin of the Finnish people the country’s economy. Norway rejected Norway’s role in the Arctic, and there- is unclear, but many scholars suggest they

46 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON|DI SPATCHES A . NOR PP A

A view from Saana in the municipality of Enontekiö in Lapland, Finland. The stone stacks were created by visitors to Saana.

originated in what is now west-central trial economy. It has been a member of the has played an important role in presenting Siberia. Swedish kings established their European Union since 1995 and was the initiatives on Arctic issues. It also belongs rule in the 12th Century. During the Swed- only Nordic state to adopt the Euro when to most organizations and treaties con- ish era, which lasted into the 19th Century, it was initiated in 1999. cerning the North. Finland was a province and then a grand Located on the taiga belt, Finland’s Finland’s goals in establishing an Arc- duchy. This included a time of enlighten- hydrocarbon resources are limited to peat tic strategy are to strengthen its role as ment; the first literature written in Finnish and wood; it has no domestic sources of an international expert in the Arctic by was published and the first university in fossil energy and must import crude oil, investing in education, research, testing, Finland was established. Finish people mainly from Russia, as well as petroleum technology and product development; to comprised a significant portion of the first and natural gas. Finland operates several make better use of Finnish experience in Swedish settlers in North America in the refineries and has an extensive pipeline winter shipping and Arctic technology 17th Century. During the 18th Century, system. It exports heavy fuel oil, light in Arctic sea transport and shipbuilding; Finland was occupied twice by the war- fuel oil, gasoline and diesel oil. Therefore, and to improve the opportunities of Finn- ring forces of Sweden and Russia. transportation of energy resources from ish companies to benefit from their Arctic Finland became an autonomous grand the Arctic region to Europe and beyond knowledge in the large projects under- duchy of Russia in 1809 after being over- is among Finland’s significant economic, taken in the Barents region by supporting run by the armies of Alexander I in the political and security interests in the re- the networking, export promotion and Finnish War. In 1835, the Finnish national gion. Finland has sizeable investments in internationalisation of small and medium- epic, The Kalevala, a collection of mythol- the Barents Region, and the oil and gas sized enterprises. ogy and legends, was published, stirring reserves of both Norway and Russia of- In 2011, Finland initiated political and feelings of nationalism. From the 1860s, fer opportunities for Finnish companies economic ties with Russia in the Arctic. a nationalist movement grew in Finland in the areas of offshore industries and Finland has a long history of building ves- and it won its independence in 1917 after shipbuilding, establishing infrastructure, sels capable of withstanding the rigours of the February Revolution and the October building machinery and equipment, and the Arctic Ocean for the Soviet Union and Revolution. During the Second World providing logistics. The largest known later for Russia. Finland built two nuclear- War, Finland successfully defended itself Arctic deposits of oil and gas that will powered icebreakers for Russia, the Taimyr against the Soviet Union, though with most likely be exploited first are located in and the Valgash, in the 1980s, as well as the some loss of territory, and subsequently the northern parts of the Yamal Peninsula deep-water submarine used by explorer signed an armistice with the USSR before and the Shtokman and Fedinski fields in Arthur Chilingarov when he “planted” forcing the Germans out of northern Fin- the Barents Sea. the Russian flag on the North Pole seabed land. One of Finland’s stocks in trade is its in 2007. In the 50 years after the war, Finland knowledge about the Arctic. The country’s transformed itself from a farm and forest expertise and research about the Arctic are Laura Neilson Bonikowsky is a writer economy to a diversified modern indus- internationally recognized and Finland from Alberta.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 47 DI SPATCHES|aRCtiC tRaNsFORMatiON Norway and Russia: high North, low tension

Neither of the parties can start exploita- tion of a transboundary deposit without first reaching agreement with the other party. Even if they agree to exploit the field as a unit, an approach known as unitization, the parties continue to have jurisdiction over their respective sides of the delimitation line. Norway has previ- ously entered into a number of agree- ments involving unitization; most of these concern petroleum resources in the North By Else Berit Eikeland Sea. The provisions of the exploitation on n September 2010, Norway and Russia any transboundary petroleum deposits

signed the treaty on maritime delimi- REMLI N contained in the treaty on maritime de- Itation and co-operation in the Barents K limitation in the Barents Sea and the Arctic Sea and the Arctic Ocean. The treaty was Then-Russian President Dmitry Medvedev Ocean are modelled on established prac- and Norwegian Prime Minister Jens Stolten- an historic milestone. It resolved what for tice under international law. berg signed a treaty on boundaries in the several decades had remained the most North in 2010. The discovery of commercially viable important outstanding issue between transboundary deposits could create con- Norway and Russia: the maritime bound- siderable potential for cooperation with ary between the two countries. The treaty Norway’s top foreign policy priorities as Russia. The treaty on maritime delimita- sent an important signal to the rest of part of our High North Policy. tion thus opens new possibilities for the the world: the Arctic is a peaceful region The treaty ensures the continuation petroleum sector and for Norwegian- where any issues that arise are resolved of the excellent bilateral co-operation in Russian cooperation in this sector. The in accordance with international law. It fisheries and does not adversely affect the treaty also paves the way for increased reflects the parties’ active role and re- opportunities for Norwegian and Russian commercial cooperation in the Barents sponsibility, as coastal states, for securing fishermen to fish in the Barents Sea. The Sea, including exchange of experience and stability and strengthening co-operation Norwegian-Russian Joint Fisheries Com- technology. It is essential to ensure that the in the Arctic Ocean. mission continues to play a key role in the exploitation of petroleum resources in the The treaty marks the end of a long management of the fisheries resources in Barents Sea is able to coexist with other process. Negotiations had been ongoing the Barents Sea, which today has the most industries in the area, such as fisheries. since the ’70s. The Russian position had sustainable fish stocks in the world. Ensuring high standards of health, safety been that the delimitation line should fol- Since the 1980s, Norway and Russia and environmental safeguards will be a low a sector line running roughly along had agreed not to carry out exploration key priority. longitude 32 degrees northwards from the and exploitation of oil and gas resources At the Arctic Ocean conference in Ilulis- Russian coastline. Norway’s position had in the Grey Zone. This moratorium came sat, Greenland in 2008, the five coastal been a median line, every point of which to an end when the treaty came into states bordering the Arctic Ocean (Canada, is equidistant from the nearest point on force. Possible hydrocarbon resources in Denmark/Greenland, Russia, the U.S. and the Norwegian and Russian coastlines. the area were not an issue in the nego- Norway) declared that the law of the sea The different positions resulted in an area tiations. However, the treaty also contains is the applicable legal framework for our of overlapping claims of roughly 175,000 provisions on transboundary oil and gas region. The agreement between Norway square kilometres that was referred to as deposits. These include provisions on the and Russia puts these words into prac- the “Grey Zone.” Building on interna- parties’ obligation to co-operate on the tice and confirms that in the high North, tional jurisprudence, an agreement, which exploitation of any such transboundary there’s low tension. takes into account the geographical par- deposits that are discovered. These de- ticularities of the area, was found. Today, tailed provisions are intended to ensure Else Berit Eikeland was Norway’s am- the Grey Zone is history. that the deposits are exploited in a cost- bassador to Canada until August 2012. The treaty, however, is more than a effective and rational manner, and that the She is now her foreign ministry’s senior border agreement. It also strengthens the resources are shared in accordance with Arctic official, responsible for Arctic co-operation with Russia, which is one of the agreement between the parties. policy and the Arctic Council.

48 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC CaNada–U.s. RElatiONs|DI SPATCHES

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Diplomatic ad_s-class2b.indd 1 12-06-12 2:13 PM DI SPATCHES|pOwERFUl wOMEN Women at the wheel The world’s top-10 most powerful female politicians

By Wolfgang Depner

hy do so few women enter politics? This familiar, yet frus- Wtrating question looms large behind this list of the 10 most powerful female leaders currently holding office around the globe. Some have blamed the absence of women in politics on pervasive patterns of social learning that emphasize the male- ness of politics. Others, particularly, but not exclusively Marxists, have focused on economic explanations in blaming the tra- ditional sexual division of labour for not ameliorating the ambitions and aptitudes of women. Sylvia Bashevkin, a Univer- sity of Toronto political science professor and one of Canada’s foremost academic authorities on women in politics, has recently theorized that too many men and women feel viscerally uncomfortable about granting women genuine political power. While modern voters may talk a good game about electing more women, she concludes that their actions generally suggest otherwise. Women who wish to participate in (elected) politics might

never be able to satisfy the ever-changing OR UM F expectations of the electorate, says Prof. Bashevkin, who draws on several Cana- OMIC CO N dian examples to prove her equation that E “women plus power equals discomfort.” ORLD Consider Flora MacDonald, who could W have become the first woman to lead a Angela Merkel has been given the nickname “Madame Non” for her insistence on austerity major Canadian party in 1976, if only measures in the EU. more of her male Tory colleagues had kept their initial promise to elect her leader. Does this preceding commentary on While such questions encourage an ele- with a short, but insightful observation: the possible cause(s) of female under- ment of speculation, only the most naive “the higher, the fewer.” representation matter? Yes, because it may would query the point that women must Things, however, are changing, par- point out the path towards possible rem- play the political game by different rules ticularly in northern Europe, where the edies. Unfortunately, the size and scope of than men, starting with certain biological Scandinavian countries, Germany and the this survey will deny readers the benefits realities. Women must also confront differ- United Kingdom have had a long postwar of discussing the pros and cons of possible ent expectations about their societal roles history of electing women to the highest solutions such as quotas. Nor will this sur- and physical appearance. Satisfying said offices of their respective political systems. vey attempt to offer a definitive answer to a demands is difficult in any professional Comparable comments also apply (albeit question that might be as important as our context, but even more so in the political to a lesser degree) to certain corners of the opening query: If we accept the premise arena, a field as petty as it is unforgiving. North American continent. that men handle most matters of state, does It is, perhaps, no wonder then that women An evolution is also evident elsewhere. their domination ultimately matter? Would find it difficult to establish and maintain Consider Latin America and the Carib- human history have taken a different political careers that lead them to the very bean. “Once a caldron of machismo and course if more women had been in charge? top. Bashevkin quantifies this relationship gender inequality,” as The New York Times

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recently described the region, it now fea- 1. Angela Merkel she visited their locker room after cheer- tures a growing number of female politi- GERMAN CHANCELLOR ing them on with a degree of passion that cians occupying top positions, including departs so radically from her reserved, the respective presidencies of regional Angela Merkel was once known as the even dour, public image. In short, Angela powers and rivals Brazil and Argentina. “girl” of Helmut Kohl, the unifier of Merkel can be many things to many peo- Other notable female politicians in the Germany, for many he was the first to dis- ple, an image she nurtures herself when region include Josefina Vázquez Mota, the cover her political talents after the demise she makes statements like the following: runner-up in the recent Mexican presiden- of East Germany, where she grew up and “Sometimes, I am liberal, sometimes, I am tial election, Josefina Laura Chinchilla of studied nuclear physics. Fellow Christian conservative, sometimes I am a Christian Costa Rica and Portia Simpson-Miller of Democrats now call this childless daugh- Social Unionist — that is the essence of the Jamaica, along with a host of others. This ter of a Protestant pastor “Mutti,” the Ger- Christian Democratic Union.” said, the recent Mexican elections empha- man diminutive of Mother. This ideological lightness is unbearable sized the struggles women continue to The media, meanwhile, call her “Ma- for many of her critics, particularly con- face as a former Playboy Playmate, serv- dame Non” for insisting on austerity servatives, because it seemingly reveals ing as an usher during a televised debate, measures during the current European a philosophy of pragmatism devoid of stole the show. sovereign debt crisis. Angry mobs in intellectual vigour, ever subject to shifting Turning to Asia, parts of it have had Greece have burned her in effigy wear- opinions and circumstances. Perhaps. But a history of female leadership, with the ing a Nazi uniform and insignia. The New this flexibility is also an undeniable asset, proviso that these leaders have often Statesman has called her “the most danger- one that allows her to respond to new situ- benefited from being part of a political ous German leader since Hitler,” depicting ations in a sufficiently fast manner. dynasty founded and headed by a pow- her as a Terminator, the cybernetic killing erful patriarch. Such has been the case machine played by Arnold Schwarzeneg- in India, Pakistan and South Korea. The ger. Italian president Silvio Berlusconi 2. Hillary Rodham near absence of political rights for women has made unprintable remarks about Clinton in the Islamic Middle East and China is her physical appearance. U.S. President arguably far more indicative of the overall Barack Obama has given her the Presiden- U.S. SECRETARY OF STATE situation than any of the past success sto- tial Medal of Freedom and depends indi- ries. Women have also played a part in the rectly on her abilities to win his re-election As this list shows, women now occupy politics of Africa, but mainly as the unwill- campaign. International Monetary Fund some of the highest and toughest political ing victims of environmental destruction, director Christine Lagarde has bought her offices around the world. But it is also ap- starvation, rape and war. Often lacking the trinkets from Hermès and shares her taste parent that the ascendancy of women to most basic resources to sustain themselves for classical music. the very peak of political power remains and their families in the face of prolonged, Members of the German national foot- abridged. often brutal conflicts, African women have ball (soccer) team, wearing little more Perhaps nobody better personifies this found it nearly impossible to make their than towels, have looked sheepish when particular condition than Hillary Rodham voices heard. Notable exceptions include Wangari Muta Maathai, the late 2004 No- bel Peace Prize laureate. Mindful of this reality, this list has tried to capture the current face of female leadership around the world. Criteria for inclusion include the importance of the post held by the person, the significance of the country as measured by its influence on global affairs, geographic diversity and other intangible considerations. Consider, for example, Jóhanna Sig- urðardóttir, the prime minister of Iceland. While Iceland hardly “matters” on the global stage, her unexpected rise as her country’s first female and openly homo- sexual prime minister says something larger about the struggles of women. Also consider Sheikh Hasina and Khaleda Zia. Both women made this list because their invariably intertwined polit- TATE ical careers have shaped Bangladesh — a country of 150 million people — for de- OF S T. DEP cades. Their story also clashes with the ro- . mantic concept that a world run by female U. S politicians might be radically different. U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton ran a determined primary campaign to make it to the Oval Office.

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Clinton, the former first lady and current U.S. secretary of state, a position as presti- gious and powerful as any, except for the U.S. presidency itself. She, of course, cam- paigned for this very position in 2008 after a brief, but distinguished senatorial career. And if it had not been for the historic can- didacy of a certain Barack Obama, the first African-American president to occupy the Oval Office, she might well have made history after a determined, occasionally divisive primary campaign, which will likely never find an equal. Other advanced western nations — most notably France, which arguably pioneered political equality from a philo- sophical, if not symbolic perspective — have also waited to task a woman with the top job in their respective political system. But it is one thing for French voters to elect a woman, as they nearly did in 2007 when Socialist Ségolène Royal lost to the since- departed Nicolas Sarkozy in the presi- dential run-off election; it is another one entirely if this important western democ- racy, in all of its occasionally confounding complexity, shatters the final glass ceil- ing. This observation neither complains about the circumstances that ultimately denied Clinton in 2008 nor caricatures the United States, and for that matter, France.

Perspective reveals that Clinton strikes a IMF historic figure in the firmament of female Christine Lagarde combines guile and guts as head of the IMF. politicians well beyond this most recent chapter of her well-documented life. And yet one cannot help but imagine Clinton profiling Lagarde. Her outward appear- ereign debt crisis as she displays rare traits as a tragic traveller who made great per- ance certainly projects the elegant elitism among the technocratic elites of France: a sonal sacrifices in overcoming great odds that is favoured by high-end fashion willingness to express and embrace dif- and obstacles, only to fall short of her goal. magazines. Standing a perfectly poised fering opinions, as Lagarde does by hold- five-foot-ten, she exudes confidence and ing out-of-box dinners with individuals charm. One would likely be stunned to outside her own social class, and a certain 3. Christine Lagarde see the glamorous Lagarde shop for her frankness more common among American MANAGING DIRECTOR OF THE own groceries in the very same suit, she elites, a trait she likely picked up dur- INTERNATIONAL MONETARY FUND had just worn to a European summit, as ing her time in the United States, which German Chancellor Angela Merkel once included a Congressional internship. Back in 2005, Christine Lagarde faced a did. Nicknamed l’Américaine, it is uncertain defining choice: continue her 25-year-long While a daughter of privilege, Lagarde whether Lagarde will succeed as the first career with Baker & McKenzie, one of the is also a self-made tribute to discipline; female head of the IMF. But her combina- most prestigious and powerful interna- raising two sons while jetting around the tion of guile and guts could be powerful tional law firms, whose client list includes world for work. A member of the French enough. Microsoft and Sony; or become secretary synchronized-swimming team during of state for the Department of Foreign Af- her youth, Lagarde maintains a daily fit- fairs and Trade in her native France under ness regime of yoga and functions on five 4. Dilma Rousseff then-Conservative prime minister Domi- hours of sleep. Her strength is also evident PRESIDENT OF BRAZIL nique de Villepin, who gave her about one in her willingness to speak her mind hour to decide. freely, a tendency that earned Lagarde The daughter of a Bulgarian immigrant, Lagarde, perhaps to the benefit of the title “Madame La Gaffe” from French Dilma Rousseff has given her office an the teetering global economy, chose the media while in government, where she occasionally frantic nature that merely second option. This lateral entry into the served as, among other things, France’s reflects the dynamic pace of develop- political world has since turned into a first female finance minister. ment in Brazil. Once derisively tagged breathtaking ascent into the “stratosphere Lagarde’s tendency to ruffle feathers as the “country of the future,” Brazil has of global governance,” as Vogue put it in has not abated during the European sov- emerged as a genuine global actor with

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5. Daw Aung San Suu Kyi DEMOCRACY ACTIVIST AND PARLIAMEN- TARIAN IN MYANMAR

The ”Lady” as millions call Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, has lived a life without compromises to become one of the most courageous politicians of her time, whose power lies in her personal example. The daughter of Burmese independence hero Gen. Aung San, Aung San Suu Kyi has spent the better part of two decades un- der house arrest for her role in leading a pro-democracy movement in her home country, now known as Myanmar, against its ruling generals. Her commitment to the cause of democracy has come at a great personal cost. In returning to Burma from the United Kingdom in 1988, she left behind a com- fortable existence and her children, Al- exander and Kim, who grew up largely under the care of their father and Suu Kyi’s husband, Michael Aris, an Oxford professor. And when Aris fell ill with prostate cancer, the ruling junta persis- tently refused his requests to visit her, on the cynical hope that she would leave the country to look after him. Suspecting that the generals would not allow her to return home, Suu Kyi decided to remain in Myanmar, a decision her late husband had consistently supported before he died at the age of 53 in 1999. RAZIL B Released from house arrest in Novem- CIA ber 2010, shortly after the ruling generals GE N A had staged elections to give their military Brazilian President Dilma Rousseff is decisive and distant with staff. rule civilian legitimacy, Aung San Suu Kyi has since seen her personal and political freedoms expand as Myanmar attempts ambitions to match its continuing rise. tary hours at her desk in stark contrast to a sharp, but still uncertain, transition to- While accounts of this accomplishment Lula’s habit of seeking out admiring and wards democracy and the western world, have frequently credited Rousseff’s pre- adulating crowds of ordinary citizens, à away from China. In April 2012, Aung San decessor, Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, as la Bill Clinton. In dealings with staff and Suu Kyi led her National League for De- its central architect, Rousseff has hardly other politicians, Rousseff is said to be mocracy to victory in parliamentary elec- shied away from putting her own stamp distant and decisive, rooting out incompe- tions, as it won 40 out of 45 available seats, on affairs. Yes, Rousseff has undoubtedly tence with ruthlessness, when necessary. in large part on the strength of her aston- benefited from her close association with One year into her government, Rousseff ishing popularity, which even extends to da Silva, who remains a popular figure. had changed seven cabinet members, in- would-be supporters of the regime. Aung And yes, she has attempted to advance a cluding six on various corruption charges San Suu Kyi’s transition from world-re- comparable agenda that places economic alone. While this action angered the male nowned dissident to “ordinary” politician growth and development ahead of other patriarchs of her governing coalition, bears dangers. Instead of protesting condi- considerations, much to the chagrin of Rousseff prevailed. In fact, she is remaking tions, she must propose solutions. As The environmentalists. But the status quo has Brazilian politics through the appointment New York Times said, she is “placing some not satisfied Rousseff, the first woman of women into cabinet and her inner circle. of her hard-fought prestige on the line.” to head Latin America’s largest country. “If she has a choice between appointing The world witnessed her appeal in June She has stepped out of Lula’s shadow by an equally qualified man and woman, she 2012 when she could finally accept her distancing herself from his jovial style. will prefer the woman,” Gilberto Carv- 1991 Nobel Peace Prize for her promotion Rousseff — who once wanted to be a nun alho, chief of the presidential office, told of democracy and human rights. Deliver- — has a preference for working long, soli- Der Spiegel earlier this year. ing a modest, but touching speech to an

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an internal Labor party coup against none other than the then-sitting prime minister, Kevin Rudd. Deemed to be disloyal by some, Gillard fought a dogged election campaign in August 2010, defeating Con- servative Tony Abbott to retain her hold on power, albeit as the leader of a minor- UN PHOTO

Australian Prime Minister Julia Gillard

ity government dependent on support from two independent legislators. Gillard showed her steeliness once more in Febru- ary 2012, when Rudd renewed their per- sonal vendetta in challenging her (just as AR Z

Y she had done) for the office of party leader TA and prime minister. This “ugly” political TOO

H showdown turned into a resounding vic- Myanmar’s Daw Aung San Suu Kyi is one of the most courageous politicians of her time. tory for Gillard, who continues to mix up the macho world of Australian politics. Consider the following anecdote: Cam- audience that included the Norwegian and more caring if only more of them paigning in a shopping mall, an older royal family, Aung San Suu Kyi thanked would dare to enter the field. The im- would-be male voter made a crack about the Nobel Committee in her own way. plication of this perspective is apparent: Gillard’s election poster. “Taken on a good “When the Nobel Committee chose to women cannot succeed in an adversarial day, wasn’t it love?” he asked. Her reply honour me, the road I had chosen of my environment. was prompt. “And you’d be bloody Rob- own free will became a less lonely path to Australian Prime Minister Julia Gil- ert Redford, would you, mate?” follow.” lard has most certainly defused this view during the course of her elected political career, which began in 1998. The daughter 7. Cristina Elisabet Julia Gillard 6. of Welsh immigrants who arrived in Aus- Fernández de Kirchner PRIME MINISTER OF AUSTRALIA tralia when she was four years old, Gil- lard has not been shy about being heard PRESIDENT OF ARGENTINA Female politicians frequently encounter on her way to becoming the country’s the patronizing expectation that the po- first female prime minister in June 2010. No region except northern Europe fea- litical game would be less confrontational Notably, she occupied the office as part of tures more female heads of state (five) and

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Argentine President Cristina Elisabet Fernández de Kirchner is one of many female heads-of- Icelandic Prime Minister Jóhanna Sig- state in Latin America and the Caribbean. urðardóttir returned to politics after Ice- land’s economy tanked. a higher share of female parliamentarians Kirchner a chance to carve out her own (22.5 per cent) than Latin America and the legacy. While her tenure has not been Critical of the celebrated financiers (the Caribbean, according to the 2012 Women without controversies — claims that she so-called New Vikings) who had caused in Politics survey conducted by the Inter- was suffering from thyroid cancer proved the calamity in the first place, Sigurðardót- Parliamentary Union and UN Women. to be simply false — de Kirchner has led tir won a mandate to wipe away the mess Argentines can justifiably take some Argentina through a relatively prosper- in April 2009 and became Iceland’s first credit for this condition, starting with ous period featuring record employment female prime minister. Yet for all the tu- their unceasing reverence for Eva Perón. growth and shrinking poverty rolls. Oth- multuous circumstances that have led to Whatever one might think of the personal- ers, however, will decide whether her the rise of Sigurðardóttir, her sexuality ity cult that continues to envelop Perón, reign will be memorable. has hardly caused a stir in Iceland, one she undoubtedly blazed a trail for women of the first countries to decriminalize gay across her country and continent. This sex (1940) and approve civil partnerships trendsetting has continued under Argen- 8. Jóhanna (1996). In fact, it has not mattered at all. tina’s current president, Cristina Elisabet Sigurðardóttir But her calm, competent manner has, for Fernández de Kirchner. The first elected now, given Icelanders the confidence that female president of her country, de Kirch- PRIME MINISTER OF ICELAND their small country might make it through ner has since repeated her election victory after all, as its economy shows signs of of 2007 by becoming Latin America’s first The first openly lesbian head of state recovery, a rare development in Europe. re-elected female head of state. While it knows a thing or two about turbulence Iceland has also become the first coun- would be a stretch to draw any compari- — be it political or otherwise. A former try to criminally prosecute one of its sons between Perón and de Kirchner, both flight attendant with the national airline, former leaders for his part in the financial share some biographical commonalities. Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir was readying meltdown — Geir Haarde, Sigurðardót- Both of their careers have unfolded adja- herself for retirement after more than tir’s disgraced predecessor. cent to powerful men — in the case of de three decades in elected politics when Kirchner, her late husband, Nestor, whom the gale-force winds of the unfolding she met when both were activists in the global financial crisis suddenly shifted 9. Sheikh Hasina political movement of Perón’s husband, the course of her career in early 2009. As CURRENT BANGLADESHI PRIME MINISTER Juan. the country careened into a deep spin fol- A lawyer by trade, observers expected lowing the collapse of its banking system, Khaleda Zia that de Kirchner would be a stand-in for Sigurðardóttir found herself in charge of FORMER BANGLADESHI PRIME MINISTER her husband, who had been barred from a caretaker government cobbled together running for another term. But his death after angry citizens had pushed the ruling One of the poorest countries in the world, following a heart attack in 2010 gave de Conservatives out of power. with a wretchedly long history of man-

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past and uncertain future of their country and its 150 million inhabitants. Hasina is the eldest daughter of Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the leading initiator of Bangladesh’s drive for independence from Pakistan, achieved in 1971. Four years later, Hasina and her sister, Sheikh Re- hana, escaped the bloodbath during which dissatisfied officers killed all of their fam- ily members. Zia also suffered at the hands of the military when her husband, a former general who ostensibly benefited from

ECRETARIAT the assassination of Hasina’s father in S 1975, was killed during an unsuccessful military coup in 1981. This history looms WEALTH WEALTH large in the rivalry between these two

OMMO N women, which has unfolded against an C ever-evolving tapestry of political intimi- Sheikh Hasina is the current Bangladeshi dation, corruption and violence, as both

prime minister. OR UM parties seek to preserve their spoils and F

discredit their enemies. Attempts to break OMIC

this dynastic power duopoly have so far CO N failed. Muhammad Yunus — a pioneer of E

micro-financing and 2006 Nobel laureate ORLD W — has discovered this for himself, when Ellen Johnson Sirleaf is Africa’s first demo- his attempt to launch a “third force” in the cratically elected head of state. country’s politics ran into obstacles from the government of Hasina, who remains while studying in the United States and the “undisputed leader of her party and working as a waitress to finance her own the nation,” according to U.S. State De- way through Harvard. Such survival skills partment diplomatic cables, sent by dip- also proved to be vital during the 1980s lomat Nicolas J. Dean, released through and 1990s as the political sands of Liberia Wikileaks. frequently shifted. Indeed, at one stage, Sirleaf supported since-convicted war criminal Charles Taylor in his bid to gain 10. Ellen Johnson Sirleaf power during the first Liberian Civil War, PRESIDENT OF LIBERIA only to break with him later. Alternating between her home and Africa’s first democratically elected female foreign exile during this unsettled period, head of state, Ellen Johnson Sirleaf has Sirleaf eventually returned to Liberia after been inspiring and divisive, perhaps not the second Liberian Civil War to contest

UN PHOTO unlike the original Iron Lady, Margaret and win the presidential election of 2005. Khaleda Zia is the former Bangladeshi prime Thatcher, with whom she has been com- But if her subsequent reign has earned minister. pared. Ma Ellen, as Liberians know her, her admirers around the world, her ten- assumed office in January 2006, a truly ure has not been without controversies. made and natural disasters, Bangladesh momentous occasion dignified by leading Her decision to run again in 2011 broke a is the surreal setting for one of the most diplomats from around the world, includ- promise made in 2005. Worse, the opposi- searing conflicts between two competing ing then-U.S. first lady Laura Bush and tion boycotted the campaign, as charges political clans, each side led by a woman then-U.S. secretary of state Condoleezza of cronyism and corruption continued to whose gentle outward appearance belies Rice. This moment marked the end of a follow her government. And not a few of the ferociousness of their fight. rather unlikely path to power. her fellow citizens resent Sirleaf’s status This “Punch-and-Judy show” as The Born in Liberia’s capital of Monrovia, as a Western darling. In fact, some suggest Economist has called it, revolves around Sirleaf enjoyed rare access to formal that Sirleaf co-won the 2011 Nobel Peace former Prime Minister Khaleda Zia of the education and political power, privileges Prize as part of a Western conspiracy to re- Islam-conservative Bangladesh National- that eventually led to a master's in pub- elect her. Notwithstanding such fictitious ist Party and around the current office- lic administration from Harvard. But if charges, few would deny Sirleaf’s histori- holder, since 2008, Sheikh Hasina of the Sirleaf benefited from the circumstances cal significance. ruling secular Awami League. Alternating of her birth — she has lighter skin because in power through the 1990s and 2000s, her grandfather was German — she also Wolfgang Depner is a doctoral candidate except for a period of military rule, their exhibited personal strength and determi- at the University of British Columbia- names are irrevocably linked to the tragic nation in surviving an abusive husband Okanagan.

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TOP 5 HISTORICALLY POWERFUL FEMALE LEADERS

1. MARGARET THATCHER PRIME MINISTER OF BRITAIN (1979-1990) Rightly or wrongly, the original Iron Lady has become a standard against which other female leaders must compete. Her foreign policy successes during the dying days of the Cold War alongside U.S. president Ronald Reagan (who called her “the best man in England”) have made Thatcher synonymous with determined leadership in the face of per- ceived and real aggression, as was the case during the Falkland War with Argentina. Yet her domestic record continues to spark divisive debates in England. Many still remember her for breaking its trade union movement and promoting a laissez-faire entrepreneurial- ism that energized the economy, but also exaggerated class divisions. Public interest in Thatcher, now 86 and suffering from dementia, recently intensified with the release of The Iron Lady starring Meryl Streep. As The New Yorker noted, reactions to the film and its sub- ject have varied. “In the States, The Iron Lady is a movie, but in Britain it’s a litmus test.”

2. INDIRA GANDHI PRIME MINISTER OF INDIA (1966-1977; 1980-1984) As the daughter of Indian independence leader Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi first witnessed the historical struggle for freedom from British rule up close, often at the side of Mahatma Gandhi (no relation), then shaped the post-colonial path of India in various capac- ĉF ities, including almost two decades as prime minister. During this period, Gandhi inexorably advanced the development of the world's largest democracy by improving agriculture at home and pursuing a range of independent policies abroad. She also remains a revered 3PDLDMJĎF figure in Bangladesh, which, in large part, owes its independence to her. And yet her name also invokes other more complex emotions. Her commitment to democratic rule was not "SNT always unwavering and her assassination at the hands of Sikh bodyguards sheds light on the violent side of her legacy, which includes the smouldering sectarian conflict with Sikhs and the outright war with Pakistan in 1971 that led to Bangladesh’s independence. Upscale apartments for

3. GOLDA MEIR rent in the prestigious PRIME MINISTER OF ISRAEL (1969-1974) neighbourhood of A young victim of the late 19th-Century anti-Semitic pogroms, which so chillingly pre- viewed the catastrophe of the Holocaust, Golda Meir not only survived, but also shaped Rockcliffe Park, near the events leading to the formation and flourishing of Israel. Uncompromising in her com- mitment towards the cause of a Jewish homeland from an early age, Meir belonged to the downtown Ottawa. founding generation of Israeli politicians, holding various cabinet posts, including foreign minister, before becoming the first and only female prime minister of Israel in 1969 after a spell in political retirement. Studio, 1, 2 & 3 4. GRO HARLEM BRUNDTLAND bedroom suites PRIME MINISTER OF NORWAY (1981, 1986-89, 1990-1996) Studio A trained physician, Brundtland has become one of most important voices on global issues. Known perhaps first and foremost for her groundbreaking as the head of the Brundtland Commission on Sustainable Development, Brundtland has also served as the director-gen- Also1 bedrooms available: eral of the World Health Organization. Global leaders continue to seek the advice of this Recently renovated, leader, whom Norwegians revere as the “mother of the nation.” Last year, she narrowly escaped assassination at the hands of Anders Behring Breivik. 2large bedrooms 3 bedroom top-floor Penthouse 5. SIRIMAVO BANDARANAIKE 3 bedrooms PRIME MINISTER OF SRI LANKA (1960-65, 1970-77, 1994-2000) with five appliances The modern world’s first elected female prime minister, Bandaranaike’s leadership of Sri Lanka (formerly known as Ceylon) had more than its fair share of personal and political and stunning views. drama. Known as a “weeping widow,” Bandaranaike raised the international profile of her PleaseCall today call to for arrange your island nation when she was chosen to head the non-aligned movement in 1976. Her domes- your personal tour tic policies, however, proved to be less popular as they led to economic decline (particularly personal tour. during the 1970s) and the Tamil insurgency. In and out of favour with voters and the justice system, Bandaranaike also competed for power against her own two children, a fight she eventually lost to her daughter, Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga, who served as presi- 613-688-2222 dent from 1994 to 2005. osgoodeproperties.com — Wolfgang Depner

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Islands at the end of the civilized world

GEORGE FETHERLING

he idea of a prison located on an al- most inaccessible island is supposed Tto strike special fear in people be- ing kept there against their will. If the dot of land housing the facility is within sight of the mainland — in sight, that is, of freedom and civilization — then the cruelty of imprisonment is all the more delicious to the captors. If the stretch of water separating the prison from normal society is full of sharks and treacherous currents, the poor inmates’ situation is even more hopeless. Devil’s Island, off the coast of French Guiana in South America and Alcatraz in San Francisco Bay are, of course, the two most infamous examples of island prisons, but they’re hardly the only well-known ones. EOLOGICAL SURVEY G . U. S New York City’s Riker’s Island in the East River, houses 14,000 prisoners and has 8,500 staff.

nam, mentioned by Marco Polo in his value because they show how island pris- Travels, was called Poulo Condor by the ons flourished (if that’s the proper word) French, who stuck political prisoners there as a result of public policy — in the former between 1861, when they took over the case, foreign policy — that was hideously southern part of Vietnam, and 1954, when ill-conceived and carried out. French Indochina collapsed. Later the Empire and Underworld: Captivity in Vietnamese used it to house U.S. PoWs, French Guiana (Yale University Press, Robben Island off Cape Town in South including some who were held in the no- US$49.95) by Miranda Frances Spieler, Africa, once a leper colony, later a political torious tiger cages devised by the French. a historian at the University of Arizona, prison, is where Nelson Mandela spent It ceased being a prison once the Vietnam looks at the various penal facilities in nearly 27 years behind bars. It’s now a War ended. It’s now a luxury spa. French Guiana (of which Devil’s Island UNESCO World Heritage Site. Côn Son Two new books, one on Devil’s Island was only one). They were used by succes- Island in the South China Sea off Viet- and the other on Alcatraz, are of special sive French governments, whether royal

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or republican, to keep opponents in check the next 10 years, prisoners of all sorts with hot irons). But slavery was re-legal- not merely by jailing or exiling them but were condemned to French Guiana: roy- ized by Napoleon in 1802 before finally rather by taking away, then restoring, alists, priests, and political prisoners, as being quashed throughout the empire in then often taking away again, their civic well as common criminals, dangerous that fateful year 1848. (as well as civil) rights — in many cases, and otherwise. Punishments meted out Before the revolution, déportment was permanently. Some of France’s overseas to counter-revolutionaries were like those simply a legal term. Now it was more of colonies (another example is Nouvelle- previously given to, for example, Parisian a fanatical cry. The citizens called out for Calédonie in the southwest Pacific) existed as much for this purpose as they did for trade, military advantage or propagation of the Christian faith. French Guiana, which most French people called simply Cayenne, after the only permanent town there, is the clearest example because, paradoxically, it is the most maddeningly complex. L’Île du Diable is one of three islands in the Salut group (salut in this case, meaning “salvation”, of course, rather than “hello”). All of them were prisons. The French also built an equal number of prison facilities on the mainland, just across the narrow strait. For a time, Devil’s Island served as the leper colony for the entire system. Between 1852, when the French government established this com- plex of prisons, and 1953, when they shut it down, 80,000 prisoners were shipped there. The idea was not merely to exile undesirables but also to use them to make a functioning colony of such a remote and inhospitable place. Why did a similar idea work well for the British in Australia when it failed so miserably for the French

in South America? Partly because the ÖLK French did not endorse the setting up of W families (indeed, only a handful of women ÜDIGER were ever sent there) and also because, in R any event, Paris kept rewriting the rules of Nelson Mandela spent nearly 27 years behind bars on Robben Island. incarceration. In showing the failure of the variable vagabonds, in that punishment was aimed the deportation of “deviants of all sorts,” French policy, Prof. Spieler concentrates at what everyone was supposed to hold including minor offenders, political and on the period before the phrase “Devil’s most dear: the concept of national belong- otherwise. The policy of taking away Island” became so widely used. The ing. “A clerk of the court would lead a their citizenship and civic rights indicated colony was a place with the aroma of convict to the town square and declare: that the majority of the public wished impermanence about it. The French dec- ‘Your country has found you guilty of in- them sent “somewhere remote from free laration of sovereignty appears to have famous action. The law strips you of your soil and ordinary colonial society. The accelerated the scattering, fleeing and gen- French citizenship.’ The convict would un-French wilderness under metropoli- eral disappearance of the original native remain bound and on display for between tan sovereignty, whether in the form of inhabitants. France then began to import two and six hours with a placard over French Guiana, the once and future colony African slaves, who themselves fled into his head indicating his name and crime.” of Madagascar, or the wishful imperial the jungle whenever opportunity arose. Then it was off to hard labour. hinterland of Namibia,” resulted in what Although this was a place where slave Prof. Spieler describes one scene in Prof. Spieler calls a double quarantine. labour was once practised on a large scale, January 1798 when a tone-deaf vaudeville Lest anyone miss the point that people it is also one where, as the author points performer who recited anti-government declared undesirable were also perforce out, “Not a single planter’s house remains doggerel in the streets was shipped off to considered monsters of a sort, France’s today, even as a ruin.” Indeed, she goes French Guiana to the sound of a drumroll colonies in Asia, Africa and the Americas on, French Guiana “strikes the newcomer along with “a column of priests, hairstyl- were deliberately not included under the for the scarceness of traces indicating a ists, nobles, cobblers, and two legislators”: short-lived constitution of 1791. They were history of human settlement.” a typical consignment of prisoners. Revo- places that housed, in the author’s phrase, As the French Revolution erupted in lutionary France did abolish slavery (as “deleted people.” 1789 and grew increasingly radical over well as the custom of branding criminals French citizens in the middle decades

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of the 19th Century, Parisians in particular, as Humphrey Bogart’s character in Passage The inmates in San Francisco’s munici- seemed to have been fascinated by crime to Marseille) who ever broke free. Henri pal jail, barely two kilometres distant, had almost as much as they were, not with- Charrière’s book Papillon, which inspired a to be relocated there temporarily follow- out reason, frightened of it. Population later film, was fraudulent fiction. One man ing the San Francisco earthquake and fire boomed, politics were unstable and fre- who did actually do the near-impossible of 1906. quently violent, and suspicious foreigners was an anarchist named Clément Duval. Prior to the civilian Alcatraz, there were were everywhere. Such was the general at- In 1886, his death sentence was commuted only three federal prisons: Leavenworth mosphere in which Victor Hugo published to hard labour for life on Devil’s Island. In in Kansas, Atlanta and McNeil Island Les Misérables in 1862 — though, by then, 1901, he somehow escaped and lived out in Puget Sound, Washington State. The the situation had worsened. After the his days in New York. third of these was the last island prison in populist revolution that broke out through In time, the French saw their policy for the federal system (unless one stretches what it was. After some delays arising a point to include manmade Terminal from the Second World War, they shut Island just outside Los Angeles). McNeil down the Guianan prisons in 1953. But was finally abandoned in 2011, after 135 they hung onto French Guiana, which years of use. Of course, there’s a big one they continue to keep afloat with massive run by New York City — Riker’s Island in infusions of cash, much as the British must the East River, with 14,000 prisoners and do with the Falklands. 8,500 staff. Alcatraz was often called the American By contrast, the statistics on Alcatraz equivalent of Devil’s Island. That and seem small. It had only 270 cells, includ- other intimations of inhumane treatment ing the dreaded underground dungeons, there, even torture, irritated almost be- whose existence Prof. Ward doesn’t seem yond endurance the department of the to decry. Prisoners there, some of them U.S. government responsible for federal naked, lived in darkness and were starved prisons. In his book Alcatraz: The Gang- and sometimes beaten and were hand- ster Years (University of California Press, cuffed to the bars in a standing position US$29.95 paper), David Ward seems to during daylight hours (or what would bridle in similar fashion. So does his junior have been daylight hours had there been co-author, Gene Kassebaum. Both men sufficient daylight). In three decades of are emeritus professors of sociology, at use, Alcatraz housed a total of only 1,546 the universities of Minnesota and Hawaii, inmates. On average, inmates in Alcatraz respectively, and have written extensively stayed only four or five years, before on penology. Prof. Ward has been study- being transferred out or even released, ing former Alcatraz inmates since the but there are striking exceptions. One 1950s, and has amassed so much informa- example is Robert Stroud, a pimp who In 1862, Napoleon III made French Guiana tion that the present book, which is quite murdered one of his whore’s customers a true penal colony. fat, is to be followed by a second volume over an accounting snafu in Alaska in dealing with, well, the post-gangster 1916. Although he’s known as the Bird- most of Europe in 1848, the public’s fear years. As it is, he and Prof. Kassebaum man of Alcatraz, he kept birds only when of convicts became acute. So it was that in have so much material that they must he was imprisoned at Leavenworth, not 1852, Napoleon III made French Guiana work hard to find a logical narrative se- during the 16 years he spent in solitary in into a true penal colony, as distinct from quence and stick to it. Alcatraz. the all-purpose rubbish bin of humanity it As the most notorious and feared fed- In any case, Stroud was also atypical had been earlier. But the emphasis was on eral prison, “the Rock” functioned for only in not being a serious career criminal, the penal more than on colony. 30 years. It was dreamed up by President sort for which Alcatraz was designed. The In 1854, a law was passed forcing Herbert Hoover in the late 1920s and whole point of Alcatraz was to house, in prisoners, once they had completed their opened under the first Franklin Roosevelt Prof. Ward’s phrase, “the most notorious, sentences, to remain in French Guiana for administration in 1933. After 1948, it re- dangerous, and volatile prisoners from a period equal to their incarceration — verted to being just another federal prison, throughout the federal prison system.” except if their original sentence had been no more harsh and awful than any of the The policy was that they should have greater than eight years, in which case others, and was finally closed in 1963. The pathetically little contact with the outside they were to remain in the colony for life. island itself, however, had been a prison a world, including friends and family. Until Serious criminals and political prisoners long time. It was first used by the Spanish, a federal judge ruled the condition uncon- accounted for most of the population until who “discovered” it in 1773 and named stitutional, they were even forbidden from 1885 when minor offenders began being it Alcatraz, the Spanish word for pelican. communicating with their lawyers. sent there if they committed a second of- Once California became part of the United The most famous inmate (he was fence. States, the site was used as a military America’s first official Public Enemy Few who were condemned there ever prison for deserters, recalcitrant aborigi- Number 1) was Al Capone, who arrived left alive (the famous exception being poor nals, individuals who refused to swear an with the first batch in 1934 and died a free Captain Alfred Dreyfus, sent there on a oath of the allegiance to the federal gov- man — free but with syphilis destroying trumped-up charge of treason but later ernment, Filipinos taken prisoner during his brain — in 1947. There were constant pardoned). Certainly there were few (such the Spanish-American War and pacifists. rumours and press reports that Inmate

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No. 84, as he was known in the files, lived like a king inside Alcatraz and still controlled the Chicago underworld from his cell. Such talk, which was completely untrue, drove the Bureau of Prisons itself to the edge of madness. Profs. Ward and Kassebaum, who had access to his prison records, give a detailed account of what, given all the circumstances, was his com- paratively trouble-free stay on the Rock. But one gets a vastly more detailed and generally superior understanding of his life there from the most recent Capone biography, Get Capone (Simon & Schuster Canada, $18.99 paper) by Jonathan Eig, late of the Wall Street Journal. He brings to the task first-rate skills as a researcher, as with his discovery of hitherto misplaced or sequestered documents that bear on Mr. Capone’s time in Alcatraz , where he became proficient in the mandola (a sort of giant-size mandolin). One of Mr. Eig’s documents even casts doubt on whether John Dillinger Al Capone Mr. Capone had anything whatever to do with the St. Valentine’s Day Massacre. There’s no question, however, that he such as Machine Gun Kelly (in time, an organized protests were as frequent in- had much to do with the establishment of Alcatraz resident), Pretty Boy Floyd, John side Alcatraz as marches were among the Alcatraz. Dillinger, and Alvin Karpis (about whom unemployed on the outside. There were a Mr. Eig’s title refers to President more in a moment). The fact that so many number of destructive riots, including one Hoover’s daily orders to bring Capone of them, once captured, found it easy to in 1946 that became known as the Battle to justice by whatever legal means neces- break out of local jails or state prisons of Alcatraz. It resulted from an escape sary — which in turn explains the book’s added force to the drive to create Alcatraz plot. There were 14 such attempted break- subtitle, “The Secret Plot That Captured as a place where “isolation from normal outs in all, only one of which might have America’s Most Wanted Gangster.” People society was an essential element….” been successful, though no one knows in authority hated the urban bootleggers of As might have been foreseen, Alcatraz for certain. This was the 1962 jailbreak by Prohibition not simply because they flouted thereby became home to the criminal Frank Morris (played by Clint Eastwood the increasingly difficult-to-enforce liquor crème de la crème and, as Prof. Ward ad- in the film Escape from Alcatraz) and a pair laws but also because so many of the more mits, a transfer to the Rock from another of brothers, John and Clarence Anglin. To prominent hoodlums became folk heroes. institution “was for some convicts a badge the federal government, that was one of When the ’20s ceased to roar, the world of honor, something to achieve.” Or as the last straws. Alcatraz — a prison where slipped into the Depression. Prohibition Alistair Cooke explained to his BBC Radio talking was the most common infraction was ended and gangsters of a new type audience, Alcatraz was full of “men who for which men were sent to solitary — was — rural in character — displaced the old enjoy a life sentence as a lifelong challenge abandoned. in the affections of the masses. These were to discover how, with a twisted hairpin or For a short while, the government big-time bank-robbers and kidnappers of a stolen razor blade, to break away from appeared to have learned an important the Midwest and South, people with names any prison they are put in.” Strikes and lesson in prison policy. Profs. Ward and

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Kassebaum write that escapes drew me- countries. dia attention and “growing criticism of In Italy, there is vigorous debate about ‘dead-end penology’ (no effort to reform two prisons located on islands off the or rehabilitate prisoners) led the Bureau coasts of Tuscany and Sardinia. In Nigeria, of Prisons to conclude that rather than the political prison on Ita Oka Island was a concentrating troublemakers in one small state secret for years. Now, with its cover prison, they should be dispersed to many blown and the authorities no longer able prisons. That strategy, however, began to deny its existence, plans have been laid to fail in the 1970s as violence related to build a new prison at a secret location to prison gangs and drug trafficking exclusively for the purpose of locking increased.” Counter to these trends, how- away Islamists. So much do high secrecy ever, ran a streak of enlightenment that and high security seem to be the trend the two authors, if I am reading their tone these days that one can almost look back correctly, stoutly oppose. For they seem to on Alcatraz (now a tourist trap) with so- cial nostalgia. The person who inherited the coveted Public Enemy No. 1 distinction from Al Capone was a famous Montrealer, the aforementioned Alvin Karpis. In the early 1930s, his was a name familiar to everyone who read banner headlines. He was a kidnapper of millionaire businessmen and a robber of banks and company payrolls, often in association with Ma Barker and her offspring — hence “the Karpis-Barker gang,” a common phrase in news cover- age at the time. In 1936, FBI agents cap- tured him in New Orleans. Once they had done so, they signalled their boss, J. Edgar Hoover, to come out of hiding, so he could take credit for the collar. The capture was perhaps the biggest boost to Mr. Hoover’s career since he deported American citizens such as Emma Goldman from Ellis Island in 1919. (Ellis had become the country’s main intake facility for immigrants in 1892. The first person through the gate harrumph when they write of “activities was an Irish teenager named Annie Moore that began in the 1960s and 1970s — at- who, contradicting the idea of the Ameri- tending class, going to meetings of Alco- can dream, died in poverty in 1924 a few holics Anonymous, the Toastmasters Club, kilometres away in the Lower East Side or the black culture groups, or attending slums. The immigration station was closed individual or group counseling sessions” in 1954. It is now a museum — and a de- that became common in post-Alcatraz portation facility.) prisons. Mr. Karpis held the record for the Yet, the changed conditions of the 1970s greatest length of time served in Alcatraz also brought countervailing pressure for a — more than 25 years. Like Al Capone, he return to what many had decided was an spent much of his tenure learning music outdated outlook. Prof. Ward advised the (and years later, while resident at Terminal judiciary committee of the U.S. House of Island, taught Charles Manson to play Representatives on the creation of a new the guitar). Prof. Ward quotes one-time place far worse than Alcatraz ever was: Alcatraz inmates as saying that Mr. Karpis the federal prison at Marion, Indiana, “was a nice guy in his later years.” where a twenty-three-hour lockdown was So I, too, found him to be. standard and underground punishment In 1968, having successfully survived cells found new life. Marion was later 32 years’ imprisonment in various institu- downgraded to medium security as other tions, he was released — and instantly de- supermax prisons were opened. None ported to Canada. He was a slender man of them, it seems, is on an island, yet the with a grey flat-top haircut, a vertically idea of incorporating such geographical lined face and a calm, if careful, demean- considerations into prison design does our. He told me once that his skill with a not seem to have withered away in other Tommy gun had come to the attention of

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Frank Nitti, the man who took over man- curately as possible. Hahn’s observations collection of postcard images. Now comes agement of the Chicago mob following are vivid and often still relevant, but her a much different study of the subject: Ber- Mr. Capone’s imprisonment. Mr. Nitti of- style is, well, perky. lin at the Brink: The Blockade, the Airlift, and fered him a lucrative retainer to be on call the Early Cold War by Daniel E. Harrison for machine-gunning tasks whenever they AND, ALSO BRIEFLY… (University of Kentucky Press, $US40). might come up, which was seldom. Mr. What Mr. Harrison does that others do Karpis was tempted, he said, but declined When the Berlin Wall was taken down in not is engage in the more or less obsoles- the offer with thanks. You see, he was pure 1989, a big stack of books tumbled into cent art of diplomatic history, working in freelance, not some independent contrac- being. Prime examples included Michael the official archives of the U.S., Britain, tor. When he finally got out of prison, he Meyer’s The Year That Changed the World: France and what was then the Soviet said, the first thing he wanted to do was The Untold Story behind the Fall of the Berlin Union — but without downplaying (quite to see Arthur Penn’s new film, starring Wall (Simon & Schuster Canada), Mary the contrary) the contributions of people Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway: Bonnie Elise Sarotte’s 1989: The Struggle to Create on the ground. The result: some startling and Clyde. “They were friends of mine,” he Post-Cold War Europe (Princeton University revisionist conclusions. explained. He died in 1979, age 71. Press), and Frederick Taylor’s The Berlin Wall: A World Divided, 1961–1969 (Harp- George Fetherling’s new book, The Writ- AND, BRIEFLY… erCollins Canada). There was even one ing Life: Journals 1975–2005, is being Many fine writers have left diaries and entitled Postcards from Checkpoint Charlie published by McGill-Queen’s University other accounts of horrifying journeys in (University of Chicago Press) — literally, a Press. the Congo, one of those poor parts of the world against which history seems to hold a hideous grudge. Joseph Conrad, André Gide, Graham Greene and V.S. Naipaul are some examples (not to mention the most recent one, the British writer Red- mond O’Hanlon, author of Congo Journey). Still, it comes as a bit of a surprise to find Congo Solo: Misadventures Two Degrees North (McGill-Queen’s University Press, $24.95 paper) by Emily Hahn. She was a New Yorker writer, better known for her popular books on China, who ventured into what was then the Belgian Congo

(today’s Democratic Republic of Congo) to pursue an ultimately tragic love affair. She stayed on to explore the country, get to know some of its people and chronicle the racism and brutality she saw. The book was published to no success in the worst year of the Depression — 1933 — and then only in bastardized form. Ken Cuth- bertson, Hahn’s Canadian biographer, has pieced together the original version as ac-

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Where’s the Beef? In Argentina, of course!

million European immigrants, mainly from In Pampas, although the original diet Italy and Spain. José Ureta, the embassy of of nomadic Indian tribes tended to be Argentina’s chargé d’affaires in Ottawa, very basic — roasted meat and not much notes that “95 percent of Argentines are of else — as cities and settled areas were European origin, 50 percent claim to have established, a more balanced food culture some Italian blood.” With an influx of Ital- evolved in terms of styles of cooking ians came the introduction to Argentine (boiled beef and vegetables, stews, sau- cuisine of pizza, a myriad of pasta dishes, sages, cold cuts) and the use of derivative coffee, ice cream, lemoncello (a lemon products (cheese, milk, milk puddings). liqueur) and so much more. Immigrants With the country’s principal seaport and MARGARET DICKENSON from other European countries (Britain, port of entry for immigrants, the greater France, Poland, Switzerland, etc.) as well Buenos Aires area has always been ex- as Arabs and Jews also settled in Argen- posed to an ever-expanding wealth of rgentina is the second largest tina, each bringing a style of cooking and food cultures from other countries, says country in South America and national recipes that have had a marked Mr. Ureta, “all of which have worked their Aone of the greatest food- and influence on today’s food culture. One no- way across our vast country.” wine-producing nations in the world. ticeable example is the country’s tradition The northwest, which borders on Bo- Long before European explorers began of tea time, attributed to the British. livia, produces cheese, lemons, sugarcane to arrive, native Indians lived in Argentina. From a gastronomic perspective, Ar- and Argentine marzipan (using wheat By 1530, Argentina saw its first Span- gentina could geographically be divided flour, not ground almonds), wine and ish settlers. With a strong immigration into four main food regions. The Pampas aguardiente (a clear brandy prepared with policy aimed at incorporating Europeans occupies much of the mid-Eastern portion distilled fruit juices or wine). But this into the fabric of Argentina, the decade of the country, then there’s the northeast, region is best known as the “kingdom of between 1880 and 1890 was most sig- northwest and Patagonia, which repre- maize” and is regarded as the centre of nificant, bringing in a wave of almost one sents the southern half of the country. any Inca influence remaining in Argentine SO N ICKE N D ARRY ARRY L

Grilled steak with chimichurri sauce (recipe page 68).

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finest lamb. Oysters, mussels and the celebrated king crab are harvested from its coastline. In the Andean valleys and foothills, local economies thrive on fruits, mushrooms, trout, game and fine wines. Today, Argentines enjoy a diet high in protein. Although the consumption of chicken, pork and fish has increased dramatically in recent years, Argentines remain the highest consumers (per capita) of red meat in the world. The grass-fed, free-range beef of Pampas and Patago- nia is world famous for its tenderness, flavour, reduced saturated fats, higher healthy omega-3 fatty acids and minimal injections of hormones. Argentina’s in- DREAMSTIME ternationally renowned barbecue (asados) A traditional Argentine bombilla features prominently in Argentina’s food culture, with strong emphasis on cer- cuisine. In contrast, the Northeast region emony, long happy hours of socializing, (specifically the areas of Formosa, Chaco, cooking, dining and drinking. Slow grill- Corrientes and Misiones, which border on ing over charcoal (never gas) produces Paraguay) boasts a unique Guarani cui- tender, juicy results. Barbecued roasts, sine (native to Paraguay), based on Farina beef steaks and ribs are particularly Eliminate the (a flour or meal made from cereal grains), popular. Other favourites include grilled spider veins from manioc (also called cassava or yuca), flour chorizo (pork sausages), blood sausages, your legs and face and iname (i.e., yam) root. Mr. Ureta en- crisp milanesas (sweetbreads), chitterlings by simple injection. thusiastically notes: “Dishes are entirely (animal intestines), chicken, lamb and local and can only be experienced when goat. But no Argentine asados would be Ultrasound injections in the area.” In the south of this region, complete without the indispensable chi- yerba mate is not only part of the culture, michurri, a vinegar-based, peppery sauce cut the need for varicose but vital to the economy, as Argentina is made with parsley and other herbs, garlic, vein surgery. This exclusive its greatest export in the world. Regarded oil and vinegar. Salads, potatoes and other service is available at as the “green tea” of South America, it is vegetables are also on the menu. Dr. Beaupré’s Clinics. refreshing, stimulating and undisputedly One might suggest that much of Ar- the most traditional of Argentina’s drinks. gentine cuisine tends to preserve the basic Yerba mate derives its name from a flavour of the original product. Meat is ONE OF CANADA’S LEADERS translation of the words “herbs” and generally grilled or roasted with only WITH OVER 25 YEARS “gourd.” Originally, aboriginals chewed salt and pepper. Marinades are simple EXPERIENCE the raw leaves of the yerba plant, but in and light; sautéeing is preferred to deep- the 17th Century, the Jesuits began to culti- frying; with the exception of cumin, herbs vate it for mass consumption and insisted (not spices) are used and even those are on its use as an infusion, which could be limited; few dishes are “spicy” hot. done in various ways. Today, it’s even In general, and excluding the foods done by using sachets. However, the tradi- of ethnic groups, Argentine cuisine is tional preparation is more ceremonial. Ar- based on a small number of standard gentines place crushed dried yerba leaves dishes — grilled or roasted meats, cold and stalks in a dried gourd. They then cuts, sausages, empanadas (stuffed bread moisten the leaves with cold water before or pastry), potatoes, corn, flans and dulce adding hot (not boiling) water to fill the de lèche (sugar-thickened and carmelized gourd. A bombilla, a metal straw with a milk) flavoured desserts. perforated bulb at the end, then filters out Argentines typically enjoy a light break- the solid particles. Designed for sharing, fast of bread or rolls with jam and coffee. Dr. Beaupré, M.D. the gourd is passed from person to person Lunch choices vary from something light with everyone drinking from the same to a large hot meal (particularly for the bombilla, with the hot water replenished more affluent and the farmers), to empana- as required. A similar tradition takes place das for school children. In late afternoon, 600-1335 Carling Avenue, in Paraguay but there, it’s called tereke, teatime with sandwiches and cake ap- Ottawa (613) 722- 0101 and is made with cold water, ice, and, at peases appetites until dinner, which begins times, a bit of orange zest. sometime between 9 and 11 p.m. 102-500 boul. de l’Hôpital, From the fourth region, the vast semi- Enjoy my asados version of grilled beef Gatineau (819) 561-0561 arid Patagonia, comes some of the world’s steak with chimichurri. Buen provecho!

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OPEN 8AM - 5PM — MONDAY TO SATURDAY Grilled Steak with Chimichurri

Makes 4 servings

1 1/4 lb (575 g) boneless beef grilling steak (strip loin), 1 1/2 inch (4 cm) thick 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil, preferably garlic- infused Hand Crafted To taste, salt and crushed black pepper- corns Through Generations Chimichurri:

3/4 cup (180 mL) fresh parsley leaves (packed) 1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh cilantro leaves (packed) 1/4 cup (60 mL) chopped fresh chives 1 1/2 tbsp (23 mL) fresh thyme leaves 1 tsp (5 mL) minced fresh garlic 1 tsp (5 mL) red pepper flakes 1 tsp (5 mL) sugar 3/4 tsp (4 mL) ground cumin 1/2 tsp (3 mL) salt 2/3 cup (170 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lemon juice

1. To make the chimichurri, place all chimichurri ingredients in a blender and process until well blended. (Makes 1 cup or 250 mL.)

2. Shortly before grilling, rub steak with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and crushed black peppercorns.

3. Place steak on a preheated barbecue grill over medium to medium-high direct heat. Keeping the hood down as much as possible, grill steak to desired degree of Extended hours from doneness. (Note: For rare, grill steak about Thanksgiving to Christmas: 3 minutes per side and if desired, sear Thursday & Friday: 8am to 7pm edges briefly — just a matter of seconds.) Sundays: 11am to 5pm 4. Transfer steak to a cutting board, cover loosely with aluminum foil (shiny side down) and allow meat to rest for 10 min- utes. Since 1921 5. Slice into 1/3 inch (0.8 cm) slices and serve with chimichurri sauce on the side.

Make ahead tip: Chimichurri may be pre- pared in advance, placed in a well-sealed Chef’s Paradise jar or airtight plastic container and refrig- A division of C.A.Paradis Inc. erated for up to 5 days.

1314 Bank Street, Ottawa Margaret Dickenson wrote the award- ChefsParadise.ca winning cookbook, Margaret's Table — Easy Cooking & Inspiring Entertaining, and she hosts the Rogers TV series, Margaret's Table (www.margaretstable.ca).

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Eugene Forsey: bringing Canada’s political history to life

By Helen Forsey

can remember many people who go a long, long way back “Iin our history,” my father told an interviewer in 1970. “I remember one man who was elected to Parliament in 1867, half a dozen who were elected in 1874 ... Sometimes [with] classes in Cana- dian government, I’m able to say, ‘Oh, no you’ve got his name wrong. I knew him.’ And they look at me as if I had suddenly walked down the plank from Noah’s Ark!” The late Eugene Forsey — senator, con- stitutional expert, trade union historian and political watchdog — was a lively part of Canada’s public life for more than half a century. A proud Newfoundlander and Canadian, he exemplified the kind of active, engaged citizenship that forms the only true basis for a viable democracy. Canadian democracy — its develop- ment, its constitutional mechanisms and its role in creating a better world — was a central concern for my father right up until his death in 1991. Growing up in the Ottawa home of his grandfather Bowles, who was chief clerk of votes and proceed- ings for the House of Commons, young

Eugene absorbed, at his mother’s knee, a ROW N B passionate interest in politics that would HRIS largely define his subsequent careers in C academia, the labour movement and Par- Eugene Forsey, Canada’s maverick sage liament itself. In 1943, after being sacked from his privatization. The media loved him for the modern traffic. I had spoken lightly of teaching post at McGill University for his cogency of his arguments and the wit and sacred things. The Americans were deeply socialist views, he set off a firestorm in fiery eloquence with which he delivered hurt. Their chief delegate told me: ‘We political circles with the publication of his them. One columnist noted his “ability to always think of the Canadians as just like doctoral thesis on the “reserve powers” cut to the quick with two lines of elegant us.’ I felt inclined to say that was just the of the Crown. In a very public debate, he vituperation;” another called him “the trouble, but she was so distressed that I attacked Mackenzie King for his shameful owner of the most trenchant typewriter in hadn’t the heart.” attempt to circumvent Parliament in the the country.” Not surprising, then, that he turned “King-Byng crisis” of 1926, and defended What my father himself once described down Pierre Trudeau’s 1968 offer of a both Gov.-Gen. Byng and Tory leader as his “inability to be frank and diplomatic posting as ambassador to the Vatican. Arthur Meighen, who briefly succeeded at the same time” regularly got him into What he did accept was a seat in the Sen- King as prime minister following the cri- hot water. During his six weeks in India in ate. The Hon. Eugene Forsey finally be- sis. Meighen had been one of my father’s 1953 as co-director of a World University came part of Parliament, the institution he boyhood heroes, and he became a close Service seminar, he noted in a lecture that, had loved and defended all his life. Can- friend and mentor, not only in matters of the Canadian and American constitu- ada and Canadians were the beneficiaries. parliamentary, but also in terms of intel- tions, the Canadian was much the more lect, integrity and personal kindness. modern document. “To liven what I felt Guest writer Helen Forsey is a writer and My father’s public reputation as a feisty was a somewhat tedious discourse,” he activist who divides her time between combatant grew from his many articles, recalled later, “I was foolish enough to say in Eastern Ontario and Newfoundland’s speeches, and letters to the newspapers that the American Constitution was an Avalon Peninsula. Her recent book on subjects as varied as “constitutional 18th-Century sedan chair, which only the about her father’s legacy, Eugene Forsey, fairytales,” injustices to workers and mi- political genius of the American people Canada’s Maverick Sage, is published by norities, public artworks and the perils of enabled them to manoeuvre through Dundurn.

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La pièce de résistance By Margo Roston ILSO N W NNE YA HOTOS BY D P LL A The magnificent salon is dominated by a priceless Gobelins tapestry called The Triumph of Constantine, woven in the 17th Century from a Raphael drawing.

rench Ambassador Phillipe Zeller als were used in the construction, includ- French explorer Samuel Champlain. The and his wife, Odile, live in one of ing Canadian wood for the doors and building is filled with historical refer- Fthe most opulent and beautifully door frames, gray granite from Quebec ences to France’s influence in Canada and situated embassies in the nation’s capital for the exterior façade and French green pays homage to the highest expression of — a granite edifice built on an escarp- marble for the floors. The newspapers of French culture, shown in its art, tapestries ment above the Ottawa River. the day wrote glowing reviews. Ottawa and furniture. The French government bought the was bowled over by its grandeur. Ambassador Zeller says that he is al- property from Arthur Blackburn in 1931 Designed in art deco style, the resi- ways discovering something interesting in for $80,000 and in 1936, prime minister dence has tall windows looking out into his residence. From the Gobelins tapestry William Lyon Mackenzie King laid the the large park-like garden towards Sussex in the grand hall to the intricacies of the cornerstone. French architect Eugène Drive, a sign of its openness to the world. birch bark room; from his office with its Beaudouin, builders and hand-picked Huge windows along the back wall face pen-and-ink etchings on the wall to the French artists spent two and a half years the river and Quebec. quaint and colourful scenes of Happy working at the site before the embassy There is symbolism everywhere, in- France in the dining room. It takes a book opened its doors in 1939. cluding its prime location next to Rideau put out by the embassy to explore all the The best Canadian and French materi- Falls, which were named in 1613 by building's marvels and treasures.

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“This embassy is one of the prettiest and the most beautiful we have around the world,” Mr. Zeller says. “There are around 150 embassies, but this one is really interesting, built when Canada de- cided to open its first embassy in Paris, so we decided to open one in Ottawa and we decided in spite of the economic crisis of that time, to build a really beautiful build- ing to celebrate, of course, the Canadian troops of World War I and the history of France and Canada.” At one point in his career, Ambassador Zeller was in charge of managing all of France’s diplomatic real estate, “so I knew that it was a splendid residence,” he says. “When you begin to live in this building, you find many things.” When the couple arrived in August 2011, they observed many interesting architectural and design elements right away, but he says more than a year later, they are still finding details in painting and carving. Entering the building from the west side entrance, one is overwhelmed by the sheer size of the French travertine walls in French Ambassador Philippe Zeller and his wife, Odile. the entrance hall, and the huge windows that rise up to the second-floor gallery, providing a view of the garden and Sus- sex Drive. Comfortable tables and chairs surround French doors and three eye- catching Aubusson tapestries representing spring in Paris, summer in Brittany and winter in the Alps hang on the high walls. Another, showing autumn in Flanders, decorates the ambassador’s private suite. A sweeping pink marble staircase leads upward to the gallery where, opposite a long pink marble bench, is a reproduction of the Vimy Ridge Memorial commemo- rating the famous First World War battle won by Canadian troops on French soil, in 1917. At the west end of the hall are two fascinating rooms. The first is the ambas- sador’s office. Ten panels of stone engrav- ings by French artist Charles Pinson tell the story of New France, from an opening scene of an Aboriginal dance and continu- ing through to the end of the Battle of Quebec. ILSO N W The artist developed a technique of

NNE “smooth cut engraving on stone” and YA D his work includes scenes of the French period of discovery to Jacques Cartier HOTOS P and his companions carrying their banner ALL to the new land. The arrival of wives to The small smoking room next to the office is completely covered in birch bark with red Quebec is detailed, as is the founding of cedar accents. Montreal. Samuel de Champlain and his wife appear, as does an image of a young lady wearing a dress with the music of a

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The Art Deco-style inlaid cherrywood table and 38 matching chairs, is surrounded on all four walls by the painting Happy France, a bright and colourful depiction of everyday French life.

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famous song embroidered on it. It refers to links with Saint-Malo. Recently, Gen. Charles Bouchard, the Canadian general who led the NATO operations in Libya, visited the embassy and when he saw the song engraved on the wall, he began to sing it. “It emphasizes the history of France and Canada’s close links of nearly 400 years. Next year, we hope to celebrate Champlain. He went to Ottawa in 1613 and his statue is on Nepean Point, a hill overlooking the Ottawa River. It would be a good thing to have some celebrations on the river and on its bank,” he says, because the embassy’s is a symbolic loca- tion on the side of the river and it offered a magnificent view to Quebec. The small smoking room next to the office, known as the Birch Room, has a charming fireplace with the walls and ceil- ing completely covered in birch bark with red cedar panelling and pillars. It was con- sidered by Beaudouin, the architect, to be the most original piece of the project. “The birch bark is a salute to the forest on the other side of the river,” says the ambassador. The 1930s-style leather furni- ture in the Birch Room was made in Paris, while the woven carpet was inspired by a drawing by André Masson. In the centre of the second floor is the grand salon, which opens from the hall- way and marble bench through two sets of Two sets of magnificent bronze doors to the grand salon feature engraved door pulls. magnificent bronze doors with engraved The medallions are delicately engraved with four major themes: labour, family, faith and door pulls. The medallions are delicately remembrance. engraved with four major themes: labour, family, faith and remembrance. The magnificent salon is dominated by a priceless Gobelins tapestry called The Triumph of Constantine, woven in the 17th Century from a Raphael drawing. The walls are also adorned with sculp- tures of Adam and Eve, Profane Love and Sacred Love as well as a frieze of horses. Yellow damask curtains outline immense windows looking out over the river, the colour matching the yellow in the breathtaking Savonnerie carpet that the Duchesse de Berry used in the Tuilleries. It was rescued from a fire at the Palais de Tuileries in 1871. At the east end of the grand salon is the more casual round sitting room, where ILSO N

W the ambassador can host small, informal

NNE meetings and meals, while guests enjoy YA

D the view and the intricate, more modern furnishings. Three terracotta panels have HOTOS P different themes. The first, over the fire-

ALL place, depicts the battle of Roncevaux in The ambassador can host small, informal meetings and meals in this casual, round sitting 778, while the second is dedicated to Louis room at one end of the grand salon. XV and his various exploits.

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Perhaps the most enchanting space is the dining room. The Art Deco-style inlaid cherrywood table and 38 matching chairs, is surrounded on all four walls by the painting Happy France, a bright and colourful depiction of everyday French life. Painted on plaster in social realism style by artist Alfred Courmes, the work took one year to complete and was contro- versial from the start. The painting depicts 243 characters in “joyous” France at the time of the first paid holidays and at the time of the Second World War. The story goes that in the 1950s, a cler- gyman, while eating his dinner, looked at the wall in front of him and was hor- rified by the sight of naked children on the beach and what he thought were the suggestive poses of several women in the painting. He demanded that work be re- moved from public view. The ambassador at the time, who liked the painting but felt it might be “more ap- propriate in a party room in the city hall of YOUR STYLE, YOUR PERSONALITY, OUR EXPERTISE. Cannes or Nice,” had the panels covered by wall hangings and shelving. In 1957, the walls were covered over with three coats of COMMITTED TO QUALITY paint on top of sheets of canvas stretched INSPIRED BY DESIGN 1134 BANK STREET (near Sunnyside) 613.730.9090 over the frame and painted white. www.elitedraperies.ca Happily in 1982, delicate restoration work began to uncover the original and restore the paint. Two years later, friends and guests gathered in the dining room for a festive party around La France Heu- reuse, to celebrate “the end of a disgrace,” as described in Ottawa, Ambassade de France, a lush coffee-table book published as part of a series featuring French embas- sies around the world. Away from public view, the ambas- sador and his wife have private quarters on the third floor with wonderful views and an elegant guest suite, suitable for the most prestigious visitors. To the embassy’s credit, most of the original furnishings, including examples of the best of 20th-Century French con- temporary furniture created expressly for the residence, have been preserved and protected. Each July 14, Bastille Day, the embassy throws a giant garden party where more than 2,000 guests enjoy French cheeses and wines under large tents on the front lawn. Considered one of the premier events of the diplomatic social season, it’s also a chance for many in the Ottawa com- munity to get up close and personal with one the most interesting of all the city’s diplomatic residences.

Margo Roston is Diplomat’s culture editor.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 75 DELIGHTS|diplOMat's Fly day

Diplomats take flight

Pictured here, left to right: Eugenio Matos, Dominican Republic's minister-counsellor in The Hague; James Levesque, secretary-general of the Ottawa Diplomatic Association; Uruguayan Ambassador Elbio Oscar Rosselli Frieri; Don Buchan, president of the Rockcliffe Flying Club; Habiba Chakir, senior evaluator for biological drugs at Health Canada and deputy secretary-general of the ODA, Polish Ambassador and ODA president Zenon Kosiniak-Kamysz; Chief of Protocol Margaret Huber; Donna Jacobs, publisher of Diplomat & International Canada magazine; Egyptian Ambassador Wael Aboul Magd; Zambia High Commissioner Bobby Mbunji Samakai, an unidentified event guest, Guatemalan Ambassador Georges de La Roche and Mayelinne De Lara, representative in Canada for the Domini- can Department of International Trade.

A record 115 diplomats, their families and business people soared over Ottawa and Gatineau on June 23 for the annual Flying Diplomat Day, held at the Rockcliffe Fly- ing Club. Co-sponsored this year by the Ottawa Diplomatic Association and Dip- lomat & International Canada magazine, it featured a flight over Ottawa and Gatineau near the Ottawa River. The event, attended by 150 people, featured a barbecue and combined soaring and socializing with a fundraiser that provided $700 to the Make- A-Wish Foundation of Eastern Ontario. Make-A-Wish Foundation contacted two families to join the festivities. Jessica, 17, who has cystic fibrosis, attended with her parents, Richard Decaire and Gwen Andrews. And Tristan, 5, who was diag- nosed with leukemia, son of Stephanie Comtois-Doucet and Nicholas Comtois, attended with his family. Dr. Eugenio Matos, former counsellor at the Dominican Republic embassy in Ot- tawa and currently minister-counsellor in The Hague, and his family and volunteers served as key organizers. Dr. Matos started the first Diplomatic Airplane Tour day in 2007, and flew in June again as one of Rockcliffe Flying Club’s volunteer pilots.

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7. 1.

6.

5. 2.

3.

4. 1. Egyptian Ambassador Wael Aboul Magd, middle left, and his wife, Hanan Mohamed Abdel Kader, middle right, hosted a national day reception at their residence in July. They’re shown with Japanese Ambassador Kaoru Ishikawa and his wife, Masako (Photo: Sam Garcia). 2. In July, Belgian Ambassador Bruno van der Pluijm and his wife, Hildegarde, hosted a national day reception at their residence. At right, chief of protocol Margaret Huber. (Photo: Sam Garcia) 3. Ecuadoran Ambassador Andrés Horacio Terán Parral, right, and his wife, Rosa Eugez-Teran, hosted a national day reception at the Château Laurier in August. (Photo: Sam Garcia) 4. In July, Rwandan High Commissioner Edda Muka- bagwiza hosted a reception to mark Rwanda’s 50th anniversary of independence at tRichelieu-Vanier Community Centre. 5. To mark the 114th Anniversary of Philippine Independence, Ambassador Leslie B. Gatan and his wife, Lydia Debbie Gatan, hosted a reception at their residence in July. (Photo: Ulle Baum) 6. Italian Ambassador Andrea Meloni and his wife, Paola, hosted a fundraiser for Opera Lyra Ottawa. They are shown with John Peter 'Jeep' Jeffries (Photo: Sam Garcia) 7. Colombian Ambas- sador Clemencia Forero hosted an outdoor mass for Colombian independence celebrations. She’s shown with Archbishop Paul André Desrochers. (Photo: Danilo Velasquez)

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DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 79 DELIGHTS|ENvOy’s albUM

7. 1.

2.

6.

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4. 1. Peruvian Ambassador José Antonio Bellina Acevedo hosted a national day reception at his residence. From left, Paraguayan Ambassador Manuel Schaerer Kanonnikoff, Mr. Bellina Acevedo and his wife, Rosa Bellina. (Photo: Sam Garcia) 2. Moroccan Ambassador Nouzha Chekrouni hosted her national day at City Hall in July. From left, Said M.I. Hamad, head of Palestine delegation, Ms Chekrouni and Clau- dette Shwiry-Hamad. (Photo: Sam Garcia) 3. Moroccan Ambassador Nouzha Chekrouni hosted a dinner in honour of Lahcen Daoudi, her country’s minister of higher education and scientific research. From left, Habiba Chakir, president of Université Sans Frontières Canada, Mr. Daoudi and Michaelle Jean, chancellor of the University of Ottawa. 4. Georgian Ambassador Levan Metreveli, right, hosted a na- tional day reception at the National Arts Centre. He’s shown with Malaysian High Commissioner Hayati Binti Ismail. (Photo: Sam Garcia) 5. Argentine chargé d'affaires Jose Nestor Ureta, right, hosted a recep- tion to mark Argentina’s national day. He’s shown with Guatemalan Ambassador Georges de la Roche. (Photo: Sam Garcia) 6. Cuban Ambasador Teresita Vicente Sotolongo hosted a farewell reception. She’s shown with her husband, minister-counsellor Antonio Rodríguez Varcárcel. (Photo: Ulle Baum) 7. Indo- nesian Foreign Minister R.M. Marty M. Natalegawa visited Ottawa Aug. 23 and made a speech to mark the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Canada and Indonesia. He's shown with Indone- sian Ambassador Dienne Moehario (Photo: Ulle Baum)

80 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC NatiONal days|DELIGHTS

Celebration time A listing of the national and independence days marked by countries

October

1 China National Day

1 Cyprus Independence Day

1 Nigeria National Day

1 Palau Independence Day

1 Tuvalu National Day

2 Guinea National Day

3 Germany Day of German Unity

3 Korea, Republic National Foundation Day

4 Lesotho National Day

9 Uganda Independence Day

10 Fiji National Day

12 Spain National Day

12 Equatorial Guinea National Day Commemoration of the 1956 Revolution and Day of 23 Hungary Proclamation of the Republic of Hungary 24 Zambia Independence Day

26 Austria National Day

27 Saint Vincent and the Grenadines Independence Day

27 Turkmenistan Independence Day

28 Czech Republic Proclamation of Czech States

29 Turkey Proclamation of the Republic

November

1 Algeria National Day

1 Antigua and Barbuda Independence Day

3 Dominica Independence Day

3 Micronesia Independence Day

3 Panama Independence Day

9 Cambodia National Day

11 Angola Independence Day

18 Latvia Independence Day

18 Oman National Day

19 Monaco National Day

22 Lebanon Independence Day

25 Bosnia and Herzegovina National Day

25 Suriname Independence Day

28 Albania National Day

28 Timor-Leste Independence Day

28 Mauritania Independence Day

30 Barbados Independence Day

December

1 Central African Republic Proclamation of the Republic

1 Romania National Day

2 Laos National Day

2 United Arab Emirates National Day

5 Thailand National Day

6 Finland Independence Day

11 Burkina Faso National Day

12 Kenya Independence Day

16 Bahrain Independence Day

16 Kazakhstan Independence Day

23 Japan National Day

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 81 DIGNITARIES|NEw aRRivals

New heads of mission Samuel Valis-Akyianu Ojo Uma Maduekwe High Commissioner for Ghana High Commissioner for Nigeria Kaarlo (Charles) Arnold Marius Murto Ambassador of Finland By trade and training, Mr. Maduekwe comes Mr. Valis-Akyianu is a to diplomacy from pol- Mr. Murto is a career fire engineer. He stud- itics. In the 1980s, he diplomat who joined ied at the fire service was a member of the the ministry of foreign technical college in national assembly of affairs after a one-year Gloucester, England. Nigeria and a member stint selling newsprint His relevant career of the constituent as- for the Finnish Paper details began in 1996 sembly, struck to com- Mills Association. when he spent a year serving as miniser plete a constitution after a military coup. He began his dip- for the central region of Ghana. In 1997, He spent two years as an adviser to the lomatic career in 1970 as an attaché in the he was appointed Ghana’s ambassador to chairman of the Social Democratic Party protocol department. His first posting the Czech Republic, where he spent four and, from 1993 to 1995, served as adviser came two years later, to Spain, after which years. He then became central regional to the minister of foreign affairs. In 1997, he was sent to Indonesia. He returned chairman to the National Democratic he was a member and technical adviser for to the ministry briefly before being sent Congress for four years and then, in 2009, VISION 2010. to Brussels as first secretary. There were he became Ghana’s ambassador to Serbia. Between 1999 and 2000, he was Ni- two more stints at headquarters before he His extracurricular experience is vast: geria’s minister of culture and tourism, became deputy head-of-mission in Paris. He was president of the Ghana amateur followed by three years as minister of He then became ambassador to Australia boxing association, and vice-president of transport. Between 2005 and 2007, he was (with accreditation to New Zealand, Fiji, the Ghana handball association. He is a national secretary for the People’s Demo- Papua New Guinea.) He returned to Fin- member of the Institute of Fire Engineers, cratic Party and then spent three years as land for five years as director general for the National Fire Prevention Association Nigeria’s foreign minister. He was deputy administrative affairs before becoming (U.S.), the Ghana Red Cross and he is a director general of the Goodluck Jona- ambassador to Spain and Andorra and founding member of the Ghana Olympic than Presidential Campaign before being then ambassador to France and Monaco. Committee. posted to Canada. His most recent posting, prior to com- Mr. Valis-Akyianu is married and has Mr. Maduekwe is married and is a law- ing to Canada, was as director of the seven children. yer by trade. national security authority. Mr. Murto is married and has three children. Vytautus Zalys Mona Elisabeth Brøther Ambassador of Lithuania Ambassador of Norway Werner Wnendt Ambassador of Germany Mr. Zalys’ career has Mona E. Brøther stud- swung between diplo- ied at the University of Prior to his current po- macy and academia Oslo and holds de- sition, Mr. Wnendt was over the past 22 years. grees in history, Span- director-general for After completing ish and political culture and communi- a PhD in history, he science. cation at the federal went to work as a se- She joined the for- foreign office in Berlin. nior research fellow eign service of Norway U ntil 2007, Mr. at the Institute of History, at Lithuania’s in 1979 and has had a number of postings Wnendt was head of Academy of Science. Four years later, he abroad, most recently as ambassador the OSCE mission in Kosovo, after com- became adviser to the deputy minister to Chile (2000-2005) and ambassador to pleting an assignment as senior deputy of foreign affairs and, two years later, re- Venezuela (2008-2009). Her main area of high representative to Bosnia and Herze- turned to the institute as deputy director. work in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs govina from 2003 to 2005. He was then sent to Washington as first has been within information and cultural Between 2000 and 2003, Mr. Wnendt secretary and later, counsellor. He then promotion, but she has also been involved served as a foreign adviser to Germany’s did a four-year stint as editor of Lithuanian in the Norwegian agenda on sustainable federal president. From 1998, he was the Foreign Policy Review while also serving development since the Brundtland report deputy head of mission at Germany’s mis- as an associate professor at the Univer- in 1987. Between 1998 and 2000, she was sion in the Czech Republic, and prior to sity of Vilnius. In addition, he has served head of foreign affairs’ section for sustain- that, he spent three years as chief of cabi- as head of the Asia, Africa and Pacific able development. net of the minister of state for European division, consul-general in Kaliningrad, She was project co-ordinator for the integration. director of the Eastern Europe and Central global initiative on legal empowerment of Mr. Wnendt joined the German Foreign department and ambassador to Moldova the poor in 2008. Since 2009, she has been Service in 1980. He has held positions in between being sent to Canada. deputy director general of the department missions to the European Union in Brus- Mr. Zalys is married with one child. for cultural promotion, public diplomacy sels and in the U.S., Pakistan and Kenya. and protocol at the ministry of foreign Mr. Wnendt is married and has five affairs. children.

82 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC NEw aRRivals|DIGNITARIES

Membathisi Mphumzi Shepherd Mdladlana Dr. Chih-Kung Liu High Commissioner for South Africa Representative for the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office (TECO) Mr. Mdladlana began his career as a teacher Mr. Liu is a career dip- and spent 10 years lomat who has a bach- teaching before spend- elor’s degree in ing one year as a pri- dipomacy, and a mas- mary school principal. ter’s and PhD, both in At that time, he be- political science. came the first and After graduation, founding president of the South African he began his career as Democratic Teachers’ Union, the country’s an associate research fellow at National largest and an affiliate of the Congress of Chengchi University. He joined the foreign South Africa Trade Unions (COSATU). He ministry two years later as a senior spe- was also a member of the African National cialist in the protocol department and later Congress for many years, until 2007. in the department of North American af- In 1994, he became a Member of Parlia- fairs. In 1990, he became deputy director- ment and served on various parliamen- general at TECO in Boston. tary committees, including education His next posting was as counsellor in and domestic affairs. President Nelson South Africa. After a year, he returned to Mandela appointed him to his cabinet as the North American affairs department minister of labour in 1998. He served all and then became director of the politi- four presidents of the Republic of South cal division in Washington. From 2001 to Africa — Nelson Mandela, Thabo Mbeki, 2004, he was director general at TECO in Kgalema Montlanthe and Jacob Zuma — Boston and served as a visiting fellow at as minister of labour until 2010. Stanford University in 2006. Mr. Mdladlana has a bachelor of arts. He was the representative at the mis- He’s divorced and has six children. Two sion in Mongolia before his posting to the daughters join him in Canada. Czech Republic. He was deputy secretary- general of the National Security Council of Carlos Gómez-Múgica Taiwan from 2010 to 2012, when he came Ambassador of Spain to Canada.

Mr. Gómez-Múgica Mohammed Saif Helal Mohammed Alshehhi studied law and eco- Ambassador of United Arab Emirates nomics at the Univer- sity of Navarre in Mr. Alshehhi is a career Spain before complet- diplomat. He has a ing a post-graduate di- bachelor of science in ploma in international international relations affairs. He has a post- and translation from graduate degree in international affairs Strasbourg University from the Spanish Diplomatic School. in France. He began his diplomatic career in He began his career 1978 with his first posting, to Turkey, as in 1992 when he was appointed to the deputy head-of-mission. He was then ministry of foreign affairs as an attaché. sent to Argentina as consul for four years In 1993, now as third secretary, he was before returning to Madrid. He served as posted to the embassy in Paris as media, counsellor at the embassy in Paris for four economic and public affairs officer. In years before becoming an adviser to the 1998, he was posted as a delegate to UAE’s minister of defence for six years. permanent mission at the United Nations With the title of ambassador, Mr. Gó- in Geneva and later to the embassy in mez-Múgica went to Honduras in 1995 Rome. In 2004, he returned to Paris for six and served as ambassador-at-large for years and, while there, attained the rank Iberoamerican Summits for two years of counselor. He was promoted again in before being posted to Colombia. He was 2009, to minister plenipotentiary and, in ambassador to Belgium and then ambas- 2010, was assigned to the European affairs sador-at-large for migratory affairs for one division of the ministry before being ap- year before his current posting to Canada. pointed ambassador to Canada. Mr. Alshehhi is married and has four children.

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 83 DIGNATARIES|NEw aRRivals

Non-heads of mission

Armenia Japan Saudi Arabia Aram Hakobyan Hirohiko Shigeta Naif Abdullatif A. Alalshaikh Attaché First secretary Third secretary Ryuichi Ishikawa Nawaf Homoud Shanar Alshybani Australia First secretary Attaché Mathew Gayford Tetsuya Ito Mohammed Ibrahim A. Al Tawil Counsellor First secretary Attaché Lucas Ainslie Robson Junji Kamei Third secretary Second secretary Senegal Saliou Lo Bangladesh Kazakhstan First secretary Dewan Mahmudul Haque Askar Kuttykadam First secretary Minister-counsellor South Africa Diedre Viljoen Belgium Kuwait Minister and chargé d’affaires Julien Pierre Francois Lecomte Hadi Alsubaie First secretary and deputy head Third secretary Spain of mission Adolfo Navarro Munoz Lebanon Attaché Brazil Sami Haddad Juan Antonio Martin Burgos Luis Fernando Wasilewski Chargé d’affaires, A.I. Deputy head of mission Second secretary Lesotho Switzerland China Pulane Christina Lechesa Annette Bettina Moser Tuan Jiang Counsellor First secretary Assistant military, naval and air Barbara Schedler Fischer attaché Libya Deputy head of mission Lupeng Gao Sulaiman A. Mohamed Second secretary Counsellor Thailand Hesham M.R. Huwisa, Narong Boonsatheanwong Côte D’ivoire Third secretary Minister-counsellor Lydie Ipe Ali Elkilabi Counsellor Attaché Turkey Murad Abudina Gulcan Akoguz Denmark Counsellor First counsellor and chargé Christen Krogh d’affaires Counsellor and deputy head of Madagascar Serdar Ulker mission Dani Roselyne Marolasy Counsellor Attaché El Salvador United Arab Emirates Vladimir Solorzano Pena Mali Abdulrahman Ali Almur A. Counsellor Boubacar Gano Alneyadi Attaché Attaché Egypt Mohamed Naguib Hussein Fakhry Mexico United Kingdom Minister Antonio Curzio Gutierrez Jacqueline Susanna Richards Mohamed Zakaria H. Elghazawy Minister Second secretary Second secretary Michael Louis O’Sullivan Myanmar Naval and air adviser France Tin Aung Than Luc Chevaillier Attaché United States of America First secretary Matthew Lawrence Stentz Netherlands Attaché Germany Rochus Johannes Pieter Pronk Norman Daniel Nelson Heike Lamers Minister and deputy head of First secretary Attaché mission William Anthony Temple Petra Manuela Struwe Attaché Attaché Niger Kevin Michael Johns Aboubakar Amadou Sanda Second secretary Hungary Defence attaché Pedro Ramon Alicea Andrea Szenasi First secretary Attaché Nigeria Anthony Kenneth Stapleton Lajos Olah Charles Nduka Onianwa First secretary First secretary and deputy head Deputy high commissioner Geoffrey Page Douglas of mission Attaché Éva Simon Norway Thomas Elmo Pajusi Attaché and consul Oystein Bell Second secretary First secretary Sarah Alice Schmidt India Inger Elisabeth Meyer Second secretary Manmohan Singh First secretary Todd David Brown Counsellor Army attaché Vineeta Sharma Philippines Counsellor Armi Santos Vietnam Attaché Tran Phuong Vu Indonesia First secretary Fientje Maritje Suebu Poland Minister-counsellor Tadeusz Wawrzyniec Glowka Yemen Dionnisius Elvan Swasono Attaché Ahmed Ali Yahya Al-Emad First secretary Counsellor Russia Jamaica Yury Ivanov Carol Jennifer Gillies-Thompson Attaché Attaché

84 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC wiNE|DELIGHTS

Wine is fine but …

can step up your host game and also offer an alternate style of Spritz. A cocktail for your guests who find bitter to be better. With the previous recipe, simply substi- tute the Aperol for the elderflower liqueur (and you can throw in a slice of orange for good measure as well) and enjoy. Aperol ($23.50 at the LCBO) is a classic Italian aperitif made of herbs and oranges. Its flavour is of tangerines with an intense the English Pale Ale style called Lilith. PIETER VAN DEN WEGHE herbal and bitter character. Used in cock- It’s densely flavoured with lots of citrus, tails, it’s incredibly refreshing. In fact, us- malted grain and hops. The finish is ing Aperol is truer to the cocktail’s origins fresh and invites you back for more, and in northern Italy’s Veneto region. That it’s particularly good as a pairing with a ith the cool days of autumn said, both versions are easy to make and cheese course. All the Bruton beers cost upon us, it’s tempting to stay very tasty. $11.99 per 750-ml bottle and are available Windoors and entertain. Throw If a spirit is preferred, there should in six-packs from Stem. in a few holidays and, all of a sudden, always be a great expression of one A nice Scotch provides a nice end to the you’re hosting plenty of dinners. While available for your guests. For vodka, evening, and an award-winning version well-selected wines will always play try a bottle of Tito’s Handmade Vodka is even better. Bruichladdich The Organic their roles in making dinners, why not ($34.95 from the LCBO). It’s made in small is a sensational multi-vintage scotch that truly wow your guests? A few perfectly batches in an old-fashioned pot still by delivers a massive aromatic and flavour chosen items besides the fermented grape Tito Beveridge (a 40-something geologist) experience. There’s candied citrus and juice will add depth and richness to your in Texas. At 15 years old, the distillery is toasted barley with notes of nuts, floral soirée. apparently Texas’s first and oldest legal and oak and the texture is silky and el- First, there are aperitifs. Why not of- one. Not only will your guests marvel at egant. And it’s organic. The distillery itself fer a vibrant Spritz-style cocktail, made the quality of this excellent vodka, they’ll is on Islay, an island off the west coast of with the French elderflower liqueur, St- even have a story to talk about. Use it in Scotland, famous for its whisky produc- Germain. This frightfully delicious nectar whatever vodka cocktail, but it’s excellent tion. Besides the distilling wizardry of (available at the LCBO for $49.95) is made in a dirty martini (one with olive juice Jim McEwan, they also have the oldest from elderflower blossoms that are hand- added) with some spicy pickled olives. working still in Scotland at 130 years of harvested annually during a four- to six- For a beer option, again, you can go lo- age. The Organic sells for $81.45 and can week period (each bottle of St-Germain is cal, with an awesome beer from Ottawa’s be found in select LCBOs where they keep numbered to indicate the year of harvest). Kichesippi Beer Company. Their Natural the higher-end whisky. After picking, the blossoms are macerated Blonde is a great pale ale with lots of spice Before you decide to serve only wine in eau-de-vie and cane sugar to produce a and hop character, and is available either at your next event, why not look after liqueur of great floral and fruit character. at the brewery or at select LCBO stores for all the details and provide an interesting To make the St-Germain Spritz, combine $12.95 per six-pack. Or, if you’re looking and thoughtful array of spirits, beers and 1½ parts St-Germain, 2 parts sparkling for something a little more exotic as beers liquors? It will make your dinner events wine (a fine Prosecco or Cava will do) and go, there are the fabulous beers from Birra the stuff of legend among your friends. 2 parts sparkling mineral water over ice Bruton in Italy’s Tuscany region. The Stem and serve immediately. Wine Group, a consignment agency, sells Pieter Van den Weghe is the sommelier at With a bottle of Aperol on hand, you three kinds of their beer. My favourite is Beckta dining & wine.

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Mr. Erik Johnson Volvo International Sales Manager, 1-888-345-2974 (TOLL FREE) WWW.STLAURENTVOLVO.COM [email protected] 1300 Michael St. - Ottawa AFGHANISTAN AUSTRIA BENIN BURUNDI Cts His Ex. Barna Karimi His Ex. Werner Brandstetter His Ex. Honoré Ahimakin Mrs. Else Nizigama Ntamagiro Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Embassy of the Republic of Austria Embassy of the Republic of Benin Chargé d'Affaires Afghanistan 445 Wilbrod Street 58 Glebe Avenue Embassy of the Republic of Burundi 240 Argyle Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M7 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2C3 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 815 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1B9 TEL 789-1444 FAX 789-3431 TEL 233-4429 FAX 233-8952 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 TEL 563-4223 FAX 563-4962 [email protected] [email protected] TEL 789-0414 FAX 789-9537 [email protected] [email protected] www.afghanemb-canada.net AZERBAIJAN BOLIVIA www.ambabucanada.com

His Ex. Farid Shafiyev His Ex. Edgar Torrez Mosqueira CON ta ALBANIA Embassy of the Republic of Azerbaijan Embassy of the Republic of Bolivia CAMEROON Her Ex. Elida Petoshati 275 Slater Street, Suite 904-C 130 Albert Street, Suite 416 His Ex. Solomon Azoh-Mbi Anu’a- Embassy of the Republic of Albania Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Gheyle 130 Albert Street, Suite 302 TEL 288-0497 FAX 230-8089 TEL 236-5730 FAX 236-8237 High Commission for the Republic Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 [email protected] [email protected] of Cameroon TEL 236-4114 FAX 236-0804 www.azembassy.ca www.emboliviacanada.com 170 Clemow Avenue [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2B4 BAHAMAS BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA TEL 236-1522 FAX 236-3885 ALGERIA His Ex. Michael D. Smith Her Ex. Biljana Gutic-Bjelica [email protected] His Ex. Smail Benamara Bahamas High Commission Embassy of Bosnia and Herzegovina www.hc-cameroon-ottawa.org Embassy of the People’s Democratic 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1313 130 Albert Street, Suite 805 Republic of Algeria Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 CHILE 500 Wilbrod Street TEL. 232-1724 FAX 232-0097 TEL 236-0028 FAX 236-1139 His Ex. Roberto Ibarra García Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N2 [email protected] [email protected] Embassy of the Republic of Chile TEL 789-8505 FAX 789-1406 http://bahamas.com www.bhembassy.ca 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1413 www.embassyalgeria.ca/eng.htm Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 [email protected] BANGLADESH BRAZIL TEL 235-9940 FAX 235-1176 DIPLOMATIC His Ex. A.M. Yakub Ali His Ex. Piragibe dos Santos Tarrago www.chile.ca ANGOLA High Commission for the People’s Embassy of the Federative Republic His Ex. Agostinho Tavares da Silva Republic of Bangladesh of Brazil CHINA Neto 340 Albert St., Suite 1250 450 Wilbrod Street His Ex. Junsai Zhang Embassy of the Republic of Angola Ottawa, Ontario, K1R 7Y6 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M8 Embassy of the People’s Republic 189 Laurier Avenue East TEL 236-0138 FAX 567-3213 TEL 237-1090 FAX 237-6144 of China Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6P1 [email protected] [email protected] 515 St. Patrick Street TEL 234-1152 FAX 234-1179 www.bdhc.org Ottawa, Ontario K1N 5H3 [email protected] BRUNEI DARUSSALAM TEL. 789-3434 FAX 789-1911 www.embangola-can.org BARBADOS Her Ex. Rakiah Haji Abdul Lamit [email protected] His Ex. Edward Evelyn Greaves High Commission for Brunei http://ca.china-embassy.org ARGENTINA High Commission for Barbados Darussalam Embassy of the Argentine Republic 55 Metcalfe St., Suite 470 395 Laurier Avenue East COLOMBIA 81 Metcalfe Street 7th Floor Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 6L5 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4 Her Ex. Clemencia Furero Ucros Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6K7 TEL 236-9517 FAX 230-4362 TEL 234-5656 FAX 234-4397 Embassy of the Republic of Colombia TEL 236-2351 FAX 235-2659 [email protected] [email protected] 360 Albert Street, Suite 1002 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 www.argentina-canada.net BELARUS BULGARIA TEL 230-3760 FAX 230-4416 Embassy of the Republic of Belarus His Ex. Evgueni Stoytchev [email protected] ARMENIA 130 Albert Street, Suite 600 Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria www.embajadacolombia.ca His Ex. Armen Yeganian Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 325 Stewart Street Embassy of the Republic of Armenia TEL 233-9994 FAX 233-8500 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6K5 CONGO (ZAIRE) 7 Delaware Avenue [email protected] TEL 789-3215 FAX 789-3524 His Ex. Dominique Kilufya Kamfwa Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z2 [email protected] Embassy of the Democratic Republic TEL 234-3710 FAX 234-3444 BELGIUM of the Congo [email protected] His Ex. Bruno van der Pluijm BURKINA FASO 18 Range Road www.armembassycanada.ca Embassy of Belgium His Ex. Amadou Adrien Koné Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 360 Albert Street, Suite 820 Embassy of Burkina Faso TEL 230-6391 FAX 230-1945 AUSTRALIA Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 48 Range Road [email protected] Her Ex. Louise Hand TEL 236-7267 FAX 236-7882 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 Australian High Commission [email protected] TEL 238-4796 FAX 238-3812 COSTA RICA 50 O’Connor, Suite 710 www.diplomatie.be/ottawa [email protected] His Ex. Luis Carlos Delgado Murillo Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 www.ambaburkina-canada.org Embassy of the Republic of Costa Rica TEL 236-0841 FAX 216-1321 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 407 www.canada.embassy.gov.au Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 TEL. 562-2855 FAX 562-2582 [email protected] www.costaricaembassy.com

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS - | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 87 Cts CÔTE D’IVOIRE ESTONIA GUATEMALA IRAN His Ex. N'Goran Kouame Mr. Riho Kruuv His Ex. Georges de La Roche Embassy of the Islamic Embassy of the Republic of Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Republic of Republic of Iran Côte d’Ivoire Embassy of the Republic of Estonia Guatemala 245 Metcalfe Street 9 Marlborough Avenue 260 Dalhousie Street, Suite 210 130 Albert Street, Suite 1010 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 2K2 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E6 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7E4 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 TEL. 235-4726 FAX 232-5712 TEL. 236-9919 FAX 563-8287 TEL. 789-4222 FAX 789-9555 TEL. 233-7237 FAX 233-0135 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.salamiran.org www.ambaci-ottawa.org www.estemb.ca www.embaguate-canada.com

CON ta IRAQ CROATIA EUROPEAN UNION GUINEA His Ex. Abdulrahman Mohammed His Ex. Veselko Grubišić His Ex. Matthias Brinkmann Embassy of the Republic of Guinea Hamid Al-Hussaini Embassy of the Republic of Croatia Delegation of the European Union 483 Wilbrod Street Embassy of the Republic of Iraq 229 Chapel Street to Canada Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N1 215 McLeod Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7Y6 150 Metcalfe St. Suite 1900 TEL. 789-8444 FAX 789-7560 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z8 TEL. 562-7820 FAX 562-7821 Ottawa, ON K2P1P1 [email protected] TEL. 236-9177 FAX 236-9641 [email protected] TEL. 238-6464 FAX 238-5191 www.iqemb.ca www.croatiaemb.net [email protected] GUYANA [email protected] www.eeas.europa.eu/delegations/ His Ex. Harry Narine Nawbatt CUBA canada High Commission for the Republic IRELAND Her Ex. Teresita de Jesús Vicente of Guyana His Ex. John Raymond Bassett Sotolongo FINLAND 151 Slater Street, Suite 309 Embassy of Ireland Embassy of the Republic of Cuba His Ex. Kaarlo (Charles) Murto Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 130 Albert Street, Suite 1105 388 Main Street Embassy of the Republic of Finland TEL. 235-7249 FAX 235-1447 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1E3 55 Metcalfe Street, Suite 850 [email protected] TEL. 233-6281 FAX 233-5835 TEL. 563-0141 FAX 563-0068 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L5 [email protected] DIPLOMATIC DIPLOMATIC [email protected] TEL. 288-2233 FAX 288-2244 HAITI www.embassyofireland.ca www.cubadiplomatica.cu/canada [email protected] His Ex. Frantz Liautaud Embassy of the Republic of Haiti ISRAEL CZECH REPUBLIC FRANCE 85 Albert Street, Suite 1110 Her Ex. Miriam Ziv His Ex. Karel Žebrakovský His Ex. Philippe Zeller Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6A4 Embassy of Israel Embassy of the Czech Republic Embassy of France TEL. 238-1628 FAX 238-2986 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1005 251 Cooper Street 42 Sussex Drive [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0G2 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 2C9 TEL. 567-6450 FAX 567-9878 TEL. 562-3875 FAX 562-3878 TEL. 789-1795 FAX 562-3735 HOLY SEE [email protected] [email protected] www.ambafrance-ca.org His Ex. Pedro Lopez Quintana www.embassyofIsreal.ca Apostolic Nunciature DENMARK GABON 724 Manor Avenue ITALY His Ex. Erik Vilstrup Lorenzen Embassy of the Gabonese Republic Ottawa, Ontario K1M 0E3 His Ex. Andrea Meloni Royal Danish Embassy 4 Range Road, P.O. Box 368 TEL. 746-4914 FAX 746-4786 Embassy of the Italian Republic 47 Clarence Street, Suite 450 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J5 275 Slater Street, 21st Floor Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9K1 TEL. 232-5301 FAX 232-6916 HONDURAS Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 TEL. 562-1811 FAX 562-1812 [email protected] Her Ex. Sofia Lastenia Cerrato TEL. 232-2401 FAX 233-1484 [email protected] Rodriguez [email protected] www.ambottawa.um.dk GEORGIA Embassy of the Republic of www.ambottawa.esteri.it His Ex. Levan Metreveli Honduras DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Embassy of Georgia 151 Slater Street, Suite 805 JAMAICA His Ex. Jose Del Carmen Urena 150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 2101 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 Her Ex. Sheila Ivoline Sealy- Embassy of the Dominican Republic Ottawa, ON K2P 1P1 TEL. 233-8900 FAX 232-0193 Monteith 130 Albert Street, Suite 418 Tel. 421-0460 Fax 680-0394 Jamaican High Commission Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 [email protected] HUNGARY 151 Slater Street, Suite 1000 TEL. 569-9893 FAX 569-8673 His Ex. László Pordány Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 5H3 www.drembassy.org GERMANY Embassy of the Republic of Hungary TEL. 233-9311 FAX 233-0611 His Ex. Werner Wnendt 299 Waverley Street [email protected] ECUADOR Embassy of the Federal Republic of Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0V9 His Ex. Andrés Teran Parral Germany TEL. 230-2717 FAX 230-7560 JAPAN Embassy of the Republic of Ecuador 1 Waverley Street www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/ottawa His Ex. Kaoru Ishikawa 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 316 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0T8 [email protected] Embassy of Japan Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 TEL. 232-1101 FAX 594-9330 255 Sussex Drive TEL. 563-4286 FAX 235-5776 [email protected] ICELAND Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9E6 [email protected] http:/www.ottawa.diplo.de His Ex. Thordur Aegir Oskarsson TEL. 241-8541 FAX 241-2232 Embassy of Iceland [email protected] EGYPT GHANA 360 Albert Street, Suite 710 www.ca.emb-japan.go.jp His Ex. Wael Ahmed Kamal Aboul His Ex. Samuel Valis-Akyianu Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 Magd High Commission for the Republic TEL. 482-1944 FAX 482-1945 JORDAN Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt of Ghana [email protected] His Ex. Basheer Fawwaz Zoubi 454 Laurier Avenue East 1 Clemow Ave. www.iceland.org.ca Embassy of the Hashemite Kingdom Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R3 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2A9 of Jordan TEL. 234-4931 FAX 234-4398 TEL. 236-0871 FAX 236-0874 INDIA 100 Bronson Avenue, Suite 701 [email protected] [email protected] His Ex. Shashishekhar M. Gavai Ottawa, Ontario K1R 6G8 www.mfa.gov.eg www.ghc-ca.com High Commission for the Republic TEL. 238-8090 FAX 232-3341 of India www.embassyofjordan.ca EL SALVADOR GREECE 10 Springfield Road [email protected] (embassy) His Ex. Oscar Mauricio Duarte His Ex. Eleftherios Anghelopoulos Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1C9 [email protected] (consular) Granados Embassy of the Hellenic Republic TEL. 744-3751 FAX 744-0913 Embassy of the Republic of El Salvador 80 MacLaren Street, Suite 76 [email protected] KAZAKHSTAN 209 Kent Street Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0K6 www.hciottawa.ca His Ex. Konstantin Zhigalov Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1Z8 TEL. 238-6271 FAX 238-5676 Embassy of the Republic of TEL. 238-2939 FAX 238-6940 [email protected] INDONESIA Kazakhstan [email protected] www.greekembassy.ca Her Ex. Dienne H. Moehario 56 Hawthorne Avenue Embassy of the Republic of Ottawa, ON K1S 0B1 Indonesia TEL 788-3704 FAX 788-3702 55 Parkdale Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 1E5 TEL. 724-1100 FAX 724-1105 [email protected] www.indonesia-ottawa.org

88 | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS - | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC KENYA MADAGASCAR NEW ZEALAND PERU Cts His Ex. Simon Wanyonyi Nabukwesi His. Ex. Simon Constant Horace His Ex. Andrew Needs His Ex. José Antonio Bellina High Commission for the Republic Embassy of the Republic of New Zealand High Commission Embassy of the Republic of Peru of Kenya Madagascar 99 Bank Street, Suite 727 130 Albert Street, Suite 1901 415 Laurier Avenue East 3 Raymond Street Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6G3 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4 Ottawa, Ontario K1R 1A3 TEL. 238-5991 FAX 238-5707 TEL. 238-1777 FAX 232-3062 TEL. 563-1773 FAX 233-6599 TEL: 567-0505 FAX 567-2882 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.nzembassy.com/canada www.kenyahighcommission.ca www.madagascar-embassy.ca PHILIPPINES

NIGER His Ex. Leslie B. Gatan CON ta KOREA, REPUBLIC MALAYSIA Her Ex. Nana Aicha Foumakoye Embassy of the Republic of the His Ex. Nam Joo-hong Her Ex. Dato’ Hayati Ismail Embassy of the Republic of the Niger Philippines Embassy of the Republic of Korea High Commission for Malaysia 38 Blackburn Avenue 130 Albert Street, Suite 900 150 Boteler Street 60 Boteler Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8A3 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 5A6 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8Y7 TEL. 232-4291 FAX 230-9808 TEL. 233-1121 FAX 233-4165 TEL. 244-5010 FAX 244-5034 TEL. 241-5182 FAX 241-5214 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.ambanigeracanada.ca www.emb-korea.ottawa.on.ca POLAND MALI NIGERIA His Ex. Zenon Kosiniak-Kamysz KUWAIT Her Ex. Traoré Ami Diallo His Ex. Ojo Uma Maduekwe Embassy of the Republic of Poland His Ex. Ali Al-Sammak Embassy of the Republic of Mali High Commission for the Federal 443 Daly Avenue Embassy of the State of Kuwait 50 Goulburn Avenue Republic of Nigeria Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6H3 333 Sussex Drive Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8C8 295 Metcalfe Street TEL. 789-0468 FAX 789-1218 Ottawa, Ontario, K1N 1J9 TEL. 232-1501 FAX 232-7429 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1R9 [email protected] TEL. 780-9999 FAX 780-9905 [email protected] Tel. 236-0521 Fax 236-0529 www.polishembassy.ca www.embassyofkuwait.ca www.ambamalicanada.org www.nigeriahcottawa.ca

PORTUGAL DIPLOMATIC LATVIA MEXICO NORWAY His Ex. Pedro Moitinho de Almeida His Ex. Juris Audarins His Ex. Francisco Javier Barrio Her Ex. Mona Elisabeth Brøther Embassy of Portugal Embassy of the Republic of Latvia Terrazas Royal Norwegian Embassy 645 Island Park Drive 350 Sparks Street, Suite 1200 Embassy of the United Mexican 150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 1300 Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 0B8 Ottawa, Ontario, K1R 7S8 States Ottawa, ON K2P 1P1 TEL. 729-0883 FAX 729-4236 TEL. 238-6014 FAX 238-7044 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1000 TEL. 238-6571 FAX 238-2765 embportugal@embportugal/ottawa.org [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 [email protected] www.ottawa.mfa.gov.lv TEL. 233-8988 FAX 235-9123 www.emb-norway.ca QATAR [email protected] His Ex. Salem Moubarak Al-Shafi LEBANON www.embamexcan.com O/OF EASTERN CARIBBEAN Embassy of the State of Qatar Embassy of Lebanon STATES 150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 800 640 Lyon Street MONGOLIA His Ex. Brendon Browne Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1P1 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 3Z5 His Ex. Zalaa Uul Tundevdorj High Commission for the Countries TEL: 241-4917 FAX: 241-3304 TEL. 236-5825 FAX 232-1609 Embassy of Mongolia of the Organization of Eastern [email protected] [email protected] 151 Slater Street, Suite 503 Caribbean States www.lebanonembassy.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 130 Albert Street, Suite 700 ROMANIA TEL. 569-3830 FAX 569-3916 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Her Ex. Elena Stefoi LESOTHO TEL. 236-8952 FAX 236-3042 Embassy of Romania Her Ex. Mathabo Theresia Tsepa MOROCCO [email protected] 655 Rideau Street High Commission for the Kingdom Her Ex. Nouzha Chekrouni Embassy Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6A3 of Lesotho of the Kingdom of Morocco PAKISTAN TEL. 789-3709 FAX 789-4365 130 Albert Street, Suite 1820 38 Range Road His Ex. Akbar Zeb [email protected] Ottawa, ON K1P 5G4 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 High Commission for the Islamic http://ottawa.mae.ro TEL: 234-0770 FAX: 234-5665 TEL. 236-7391 FAX 236-6164 Republic of Pakistan [email protected] www.ambamaroc.ca/Nouveau/ 10 Range Road RUSSIA siteAmba.html Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 His Ex. Georgiy Mamedov LIBYA TEL. 238-7881 FAX 238-7296 Embassy of the Russian Federation Mr. Abubaker M. A Karmos MYANMAR [email protected] 285 Charlotte Street Chargé d` affaires His Ex. Kyaw Tin Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8L5 Suite 1000, 81 Metcalfe Street Embassy of the Union of Myanmar PALESTINE TEL. 235-4341 FAX 236-6342 Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 6K7 85 Range Road, Suite 902 His Ex. Said M. Hamad [email protected] TEL. 842-7519 FAX: 842-8627 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J6 Head of the General Delegation www.rusembassy.ca [email protected] TEL. 232-9990 FAX 232-6999 18 The Driveway http://www.libyanembassy.ca [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K2P 9C6 RWANDA TEL: 736-0053 Her Ex. Edda Mukabagwiza LITHUANIA NEPAL FAX: 736-0535 High Commission for the Republic His Ex. Vytautus Zalys His Ex. Bhoj Raj Ghimire [email protected] of Rwanda Embassy of the Republic of Chargé d'Affaires 294 Albert Street, Suite 404 Lithuania Embassy of Nepal PANAMA Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 6E6 150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 1600 408 Queen Street Jorge Hernán Miranda Corona Phone: 569-5420/22/24 Ottawa, ON K2P 1P1 Ottawa, ON K1R 5A7 Embassy of the Republic of Panama Fax : 569-5421/5423 TEL. 567-5458 FAX 567-5315 TEL 680-5513 FAX 422-5149 130 Albert Street, Suite 300 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 canada.embassy.gov.rw www.lithuanianembassy.ca TEL. 236-7177 FAX 236-5775 NETHERLANDS [email protected] SAUDI ARABIA MACEDONIA (REPUBLIC OF) His Ex. Wilhelmus J. P. Geerts His Ex. Osamah Bin Ahmad Al His Ex. Ljuben Tevdovski Embassy of the Kingdom of the PARAGUAY Sanosi Ahmad Embassy of the Republic Netherlands His Ex. Manuel Schaerer Royal Embassy of Saudi Arabia of Macedonia 350 Albert Street, Suite 2020 Kanonnikoff 201 Sussex Drive 130 Albert Street, Suite 1006 Ottawa, Ontario K1R 1A4 Embassy of the Republic of Paraguay Ottawa, ON K1N 1K6 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 TEL. 237-5030 FAX 237-6471 151 Slater Street, Suite 501 TEL 237-4100 FA X 237-0567 TEL. 234-3882 FAX 233-1852 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 [email protected] [email protected] TEL. 567-1283 FAX 567-1679 [email protected]

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS - | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 89 89 Cts SENEGAL SUDAN TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO Tel: 613-232-0909 His. Ex. Amadou Tidiane Wone Embassy of the Republic of the Sudan His Ex. Philip Buxo Fax: 613-230-1855 Embassy of the Republic of Senegal 354 Stewart Street High Commission for the Republic www.unhcr.ca 57 Marlborough Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6K8 of Trinidad and Tobago Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E8 TEL. 235-4000 FAX 235-6880 200 First Avenue, Third Level UNITED STATES OF AMERICA TEL. 238-6392 FAX 238-2695 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2G6 His Ex. David Cary Jacobson [email protected] www.sudanembassy.ca/ TEL. 232-2418 FAX 232-4349 Embassy of the United States of [email protected] America SERBIA SWEDEN 490 Sussex Drive

CON ta His Ex. Zoran Veljic His Ex. Teppo Markus Tauriainen TUNISIA Ottawa, Ontario K1N 1G8 Embassy of the Republic of Serbia Embassy of Sweden His Ex. Mouldi Sakri TEL. 238-5335 FAX 688-3088 17 Blackburn Avenue 377 Dalhousie Street Embassy of the Republic of Tunisia www.usembassycanada.gov Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8A2 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9N8 515 O’Connor Street TEL. 233-6289 FAX 233-7850 TEL. 244-8200 FAX 241-2277 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 3P8 URUGUAY [email protected] [email protected] TEL. 237-0330 FAX 237-7939 His Ex. Elbio Oscar Rosselli Frieri www.serbianembassy.ca www.swedishembassy.ca [email protected] Embassy of the Oriental Republic of Uruguay SLOVAK REPUBLIC SWITZERLAND TURKEY 130 Albert Street, Suite 1905 His Ex. Milan Kollár His Ex. Ulrich Lehner His Ex. Rafet Akgünay Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Embassy of the Slovak Republic Embassy of Switzerland Embassy of the Republic of Turkey TEL. 234-2727 FAX 233-4670 50 Rideau Terrace 5 Marlborough Avenue 197 Wurtemburg Street [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1M 2A1 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E6 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8L9v TEL. 749-4442 FAX 749-4989 TEL. 235-1837 FAX 563-1394 TEL 244-2470 FAX 789-3442 VENEZUELA [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Embassy of the Bolivarian Republic www.mzv.sk/ottawa www.turkishembassy.com of Venezuela SYRIA 32 Range Road

DIPLOMATIC DIPLOMATIC SLOVENIA Embassy of the Syrian Arab Republic UGANDA Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 Embassy of the Republic of Slovenia 46 Cartier Street His Ex. George Marino Abola TEL. 235-5151 FAX 235-3205 150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 2200 Ottawa, ON K2P 1J3 High Commission for the Republic [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1P1 TEL. 569-5556 FAX 569-3800 of Uganda www.misionvenezuela.org TEL. 565-5781 FAX 565-5783 [email protected] 231 Cobourg Street [email protected] www.syrianembassy.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J2 VIETNAM http://ottawa.veleposlanistvo.si/ TEL. 789-7797 FAX 789-8909 His Ex. Sy Vuong Ha Le TAIPEI Economic & Cultural office [email protected] Embassy of the Socialist Republic of SOUTH AFRICA Dr. Chih-Kung Liu www.ugandahighcommission.ca Vietnam His Ex. Membathisi Shepherd 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1960 470 Wilbrod Street Mdladlana Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 UKRAINE Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M8 High Commission for the Republic TEL. 231-5080 FAX 231-7112 Marko O. Shevchenko TEL. 236-0772 FAX 236-2704 of South Africa [email protected] Chargé d’Affaires [email protected] 15 Sussex Drive Embassy of Ukraine Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1M8 TANZANIA 310 Somerset Street, West, YEMEN TEL. 744-0330 FAX 741-1639 His Ex. Alex Crescent Massinda Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0J9 His Ex. Khaled Mahfoodh Bahah [email protected] High Commission for the United TEL. 230-2961 Fax 230-2400 Embassy of the Republic of Yemen www.southafrica-canada.ca Republic of Tanzania [email protected] 54 Chamberlain Avenue 50 Range Road www.ukremb.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1V9 SPAIN Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 TEL. 729-6627 FAX 729-8915 His Ex. Carlos Gómez-Múgica TEL. 232-1509 FAX 232-5184 UNITED ARAB EMIRATES [email protected] Embassy of the Kingdom of Spain [email protected] Mohammed Saif Helal Mohammed www.yemenembassy.ca 74 Stanley Avenue www.tanzaniahighcommission.ca Alshehhi Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1P4 125 Boteler Street ZAMBIA TEL. 747-2252 FAX 744-1224 THAILAND Ottawa, Ontario K1N 0A4 His Ex. Bobby Mbunji Samakai [email protected] His Ex. Udomphol Ninnad TEL. 565-7272 FAX 565-8007 High Commission for the Republic www.embaspain.ca The Royal Thai Embassy Consulate FAX: 565-1444 of Zambia 180 Island Park Drive [email protected] 151 Slater St., Suite 205 SRI LANKA Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 0A2 www.uae-embassy.ae/ca Ottawa, Ontario Her Ex. Chitranganee Wagiswara TEL. 722-4444 FAX 722-6624 K1B 5H3 High Commission for the [email protected] UNITED KINGDOM TEL. 232-4400 FAX 232-4410 Democratic Socialist Republic [email protected] His Ex. Andrew Pocock [email protected] of Sri Lanka British High Commission 333 Laurier Avenue West, Suite 1204 TOGO 80 Elgin Street ZIMBABWE Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1C1 Embassy of the Togolese Republic Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5K7 Her Ex. Florence Zano Chideya TEL. 233-8449 FAX 238-8448 12 Range Road TEL. 237-1530 FAX 237-7980 Embassy of the Republic of [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 www.ukincanada.fco.gov.uk Zimbabwe www.srilankahcottawa.org TEL. 238-5916 FAX 235-6425 332 Somerset Street West [email protected] UN REFUGEE AGENCY Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0J9 Furio de Angelis TEL. 421-2824 FAX 422-7403 UNHCR Representative in Canada [email protected] 280 Albert Street, Suite 401 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G8 www.zimottawa.com

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DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 91 DELIGHTS|dEstiNatiONs

Abundant with cultural wonders, Azerbaijan awaits

Azeri Square in downtown Baku.

tural centre of our country with advanced settlement, a suburb of greater Baku. The infrastructure, modern hotels and banks, pentagonal complex, which has a court- scientific and cultural attractions and nu- yard surrounded by cells for monks and merous historical and architectural monu- a tetrapillar-altar in the middle, was built ments. Here you will experience a culture during the 17th and 18th Centuries. After of extravagance and exclusive originality. being abandoned in 1883, when oil and The ancient fortress of the Icheri Sheher gas plants were established in the vicinity, (Old City) in the centre of Baku is a unique the complex was turned into a museum in open-air museum, which is the pride of 1975 and now receives 15,000 visitors each every Azerbaijani. The area is surrounded year. Dating back to the 6th Century and By Farid Shafiyev by defensive walls, which date back to the built over a natural gas source, this temple Ambassador of Azerbaijan 12th Century. There are many invaluable is truly exceptional and unlike any other monuments of the Middle Ages and great in the world. Today, the temple features a zerbaijan — or “land of fires” for antiquity inside the Old City. The archi- museum in which visitors can delve into its ever-burning, inextinguish- tecture throughout the ages can be seen the past and see just how those who wor- Aable natural gas flames that shoot by simply taking a walk in the area. The shipped fires led their lives. spontaneously from the earth — offers Maiden Tower (Gyz Galasy), the complex In 1858, the great French novelist Alex- other equally spectacular and utterly of Shirvanshahs’ Palace and the fortress ander Dumas (1802-1870) visited Atesh- unique historical and cultural experi- walls located in the Old City are UNESCO gah. Dumas wrote some of his impressions ences. World Heritage sites. about it in his book, Travels in the Caucasus: Travellers usually begin their journey to Visitors to Baku enjoy the temple of “Great tongues of flame soared in the air Azerbaijan in Baku, the country’s capital. fire worshippers, known as Ateshgah from the hundreds of tiny round fissures Baku is the biggest political, trade and cul- (House of Fire), located in Surakhani in the ground. The wind would scatter the

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flames, curve them and then straighten them, spreading them along the ground and then lifting them up to heavens again. But it was impossible for the wind to ex- tinguish them.” Today, you can observe this interesting natural phenomenon near Muhammadli village where natural gases are released and burn at the base of a rock called Yanar Dag (Fire Mountain). This is an ancient and visually stunning natural gas fire which blazes continuously on a hillside on the Absheron Peninsula on the Caspian Sea near Baku. Flames jet out into the air three metres from a thin, porous sand- stone layer. One can also visit the archives of hu- man evolution in the form of rock paint- ings, or petroglyphs. One of them — the Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape — is a hill and mountain site occupying the southeast end of the Great Caucasian Mountain Ridge. About 60 kilometres southwest of the centre of Baku, it sits on the west coast of the Caspian Sea. The re- serve has more than 6,000 rock engravings dating back to between 5,000 and 40,000 ASHIROV

years. The site also features the remains MI N B of inhabited caves, settlements and buri- E als, all reflecting intensive human use by The Bibi-Heybat Mosque in Baku. This structure was built in the 1990s. It is a re-creation of a 13th-Century mosque by the same name, that was destroyed by the Bolsheviks in 1936. the inhabitants of the area during the wet period that followed the last Ice Age, from the upper Palaeolithic to the Middle Ages. The petroglyphs and rock engravings are an exceptional testimony to a way of life that has disappeared, graphic representa- tions of activities connected with hunting and fishing at a time when the climate of the area was warmer and wetter than today. In 2007, Gobustan was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site that was considered to be of “outstanding universal value” for the quality and density of its rock art engravings and for the substantial evidence the collection of rock art images presents for hunting, fauna, flora and life- styles in prehistoric times. Also in Gobustan, you will find the inexplicable Gaval Dash — a unique stone

that will produce a distinct sound when ZERI tapped with another stone. Gaval Dash A is locally known as the Stone Tambourine Petroglyphs in Gobustan National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. because it can produce so many different sounds, just like a tambourine. Many be- cal composition, and the mud and clay of the old moon’s dead surface, the mud vol- lieve that the stone has magical properties, these volcanoes, along with the volcanic canoes of Azerbaijan are still alive. as there is no explanation for this. waters, can treat many diseases. Each Beyond Baku, there are many fasci- Azerbaijan also is home to the highest volcano is said to have its own distinct nating towns to visit, each with its own number of mud volcanoes in the world. healing properties, so travellers often pick unique attractions. For example, travelling Of the world’s 800 mud volcanoes, 300 and choose based on local legend and on to Ismayilli (northwest of Baku), one can can be found in the coastal area of Azer- what ails them. The strange landscape is find the marvellous town of Lahij. This baijan — both active and dormant. Each reminiscent of the youth of our planet or is one of the ancient handicraft centres of them has its own character and chemi- the views of the moon; however, unlike of Azerbaijan, and has a unique charm

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 93 DELIGHTS|destinations ZERBAIJAN OF A OURIS M OF CULTURE AND T OF CULTURE MINISTRY

Khinaliq Village in northern Azerbaijan has preserved its ancient way of life.

thanks to its high standard of town plan- various skin, joint and bone diseases such ning. There is no comparable collection of as psoriasis, arthritis and rheumatism. The copper workshops anywhere in the world, town takes its name from the oil, “Nafta- and during the Middle Ages, most men lan,” which comes from the Azerbaijani worked in the copper craft. In those days, for “neft alan” (oil buyer). copper wares made in Lahij were exported Those who love vegetables and fruits to all Eastern countries; nowadays, these should visit the city of Guba, one of the works of art are kept in many world mu- well-developed agricultural regions of seums as well as in private collections. In Azerbaijan, which also boasts impressive Lahij, one can also find many little shops gorges and the famous Afuja waterfall. selling curative mountain grasses that Located only 65 kilometres from Guba, are renowned for easing joint and muscle the Highland Khinalig village (about 2,500 pain. metres above sea level) is home to the Khi- Travelling further northwest, the city naligians, an ethnographic group with its

of Sheki, founded almost 2,600 years ago, BASOV own archaic language that is not similar to is renowned for its craftsmen. Branches any of the contemporary world languages. ARIZ A of handicraft such as intricate “shebeke,” F It has been preserved well, though the embroideries, stucco, pottery, metalwork Khinaligians also speak Azerbaijani. The The Maiden Tower was built in the 12th and mural painting are sold in Sheki. The century, as part of the walled city of Baku. phenomenon of Khinalig is one of the town boasts a peculiar architectural and greatest ethnographic mysteries in world decorative style of its own, and a beautiful history. example of this is the mosaic-fronted Sheki lava, gentle halvah and nut cookies, which Key among the many places not to miss Khan's Palace (King Palace), built in the have a delectable taste and aroma. is the Tears of Kyapaz. This is a beautiful 18th Century. In ancient times, gold-em- Those seeking further health resort site for those who love beauty in its most broidered Sheki silk was appreciated all experiences can also stop by Naftalan, the natural and pure forms. The Tears of Kya- over the world as one of the greatest riches home of a rare type of oil from Azerbaijan paz is a series of seven lakes that look very and the flow of tourists here continues to that is used only for medicinal purposes. much like a series of seven teardrops shed this day. Those who know local cuisine Azerbaijani doctors have prescribed Naf- across the land. will delight in the well-known Sheki bak- talan oil for years to successfully treat The lakes, near Mount Kyapaz, are

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DA_Diplomat Fall 12 FINAL.indd 94 12-09-26 3:58 PM destinations|DELIGHTS ZERBAIJAN OF A OURIS M OF CULTURE AND T OF CULTURE MINISTRY

The capital, Baku, at night.

truly breathtaking in their simple and yet sand and surf. The Caspian Sea is also and vegetables or meat) and khamirashi (a profound beauty, which makes the site one famous for its abundant sturgeon stocks, bean and noodle soup). of the most well known tourist attractions. the source of most of the world’s supply Whether you are interested in ancient The lakes formed back in 1139 when an of caviar, a delicacy like no other. Besides culture and crafts, breathtaking natural earthquake dammed mountain streams in caviar, Azerbaijan also has a vibrant na- wonders, tranquil scenes or unique health several places. Nearby are 3,806 hectares tional cuisine with a vast array of dishes. resorts, there is something to enchant of woodlands that are home to 420 plants Favourites include dolma — which means every visitor in Azerbaijan. The liveliness and many animals, among them the stone to “fill in” or “wrap” in Azerbaijani — of the land, people and culture will leave marten, the Caucasian gabion and the consisting of lamb and minced onions you with an unforgettable impression of a badger. wrapped in grape leaves, and an array of country unlike any other in the world. Along with the historical sites, another meat and vegetable kebabs. Azerbaijani main attraction is the collection of beaches cuisine also includes a number of soups Farid Shafiyev is Azerbaijan’s ambas- along the Caspian Sea, which beckon served hot and cold, such as dovga (made sador to Canada. Reach him at 613-288- tourists to luxuriate in their magnificent with rice, sour milk and cream, flour, eggs 0497 or email [email protected].

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DA_Diplomat Fall 12 FINAL.indd 95 12-09-26 4:08 PM DELIGHTS|dEstiNatiONs

Enchanting Ireland OLDS EY N Y JESSIE R B HOTOS P ALL

Truly experiencing Ireland means getting out of the cities and into the pastoral countryside.

pudding and small towns that can only be sion and, eventually, became the country’s described as idyllic. Trying to see the is- capital. land in a few weeks is impossible, despite For modern art lovers, cross the its size. Pick north or south. I covered the ha’penny bridge (or one of the other south, and will go back to see the north multitude of bridges that cross the River another — warmer — time. Liffey) and head to the Spire. Formally Some suggestions: Use a rental car, titled the Monument of Light, the Spire is bring an umbrella, don’t spend more than a large, unadorned, stainless-steel monu- 10 percent of your trip in big cities and ment on the north side’s main thorough- By Jessie Reynolds take at least two weeks. Ireland has two fare, O’Connell Street. It was built on the nearby international airports. Take advan- site where Nelson’s Pillar stood before it reland, a country less than 1/100th the tage of that by flying into Dublin and out was destroyed by a bombing by former size of Canada, holds an incredible of Shannon to see more of the country and IRA members in 1966. The shiny spire Inumber of surprises. Dublin reminds avoid doubling back. regularly garners extreme reactions, some one of London, the west coast reminds Dublin is a strange mix of young and positive, some negative. one of Newfoundland and the south re- old. A modern glass building backs onto a A few feet away, you’ll find a fantastic minds one of Maine. There are ruins, sce- pub built 200 years ago. It was founded by quick-grab seafood restaurant called Be- nic coastal drives, the world’s best bread the Vikings, lived to see the Norman inva- shoff, founded by Russian immigrants in

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Japan has sushi. And it turns out Ireland has perfected all that’s required for a delicious meal: bread, cheese and shell- fish. The bread is always fresh and many restaurants make their own. The cheese industry is bustling — there seems to be no end of sheep and cow cheese selections by county: soft or hard, curd or aged, and they’re all memorable. The Irish don’t shy away from stronger, more challenging flavours, a discovery I happily made. The watery bries from France have had their day and should make way for this cheese that reflects its country — hard, strong and rugged. Back on the south side of the city, there are two days’ worth of things to do. I recommend a stay at the Trinity Capital Hotel. It’s centrally located, and can be described as both bohemian and Victorian. Suitcases with travel stickers are placed around the lobby below vintage posters advertising the adventures to be had in exotic locations. As always, I start a big-city explore with a hop-on-hop-off bus tour. It pro- vides orientation, free transit for the day, unusual trivia from locals and a chance to The grand scale of the eight-kilometre expanse of sheer stone at the cliffs of Moher aston- rest the legs. My first stop was Guinness ishes visitors. beer’s St. James’ Gate Brewery. It’s one of Dublin’s most popular sites, so it’s advis- able to go in the morning. Make your way to nearby Henry Street, The history of Arthur Guinness, the a great place for shopping. It’s the north infrastructure (hospital included) he pro- side’s answer to Grafton Street, the other vided to Dublin, the mid-1700s brewery’s principal shopping street in Dublin. Phoe- floor-mounted 9,000-year lease and the nix Park is close to downtown Dublin and history of Guinness advertising were is a gathering place for locals on a (rare) fascinating. And the free beer sample (it’s sunny day. If you’re a sports enthusiast 5 p.m. somewhere) was most welcome. and don’t want to brave the local pubs One can savour the quotation pasted on a during game nights, head to Phoenix Park large wooden drum: “The equipment you and watch any number of amateur sports see around you, like the building you’re on the well-maintained and numerous standing in, comes from another time, sporting fields or pitches. when machines were works of art.” On your way back to the city’s south Consider visiting Trinity College where side, where you’ll likely spend the rest the Book of Kells (Leabhar Cheanannais) of your time in Dublin, is The Winding is kept. This is likely the second-most Stair. As charming as its name, it’s one popular site in Dublin, so it’s a good idea of the city’s oldest bookstores. Two nar- to visit early in the day. The book of il- row flights up is a restaurant of the same lustrated gospels was made by monks name with a great view of the river and in approximately AD 800. What makes ha’penny bridge. Surrounded by book- it unique isn’t simply its age, but the in- shelves, a bustling kitchen and wall of credibly intricate and ornate designs. The windows, most diners seem to take their exhibit gives viewers a chance to see a time. I did, too. With a glass of Australian few pages of the book and to learn about The Spire was erected where Nelson's Pillar red, I ordered the Irish cheese and char- book-making more than 1,000 years ago, once stood. cuterie board and a bowl of local steamed including the imported raw materials used mussels from nearby town Lissadell, fa- to make the coloured inks. 1913. It offers high-quality seafood, quick mous for its shellfish exports. After that bout of culture, you might service, and an upstairs dining area with The culinary specialties of many tour- head to Grafton Street for some shopping. a view of the Spire, bridge and O’Connell ist destinations are well known. Italy has Don’t miss Karen Millen, if only to admire Street. pasta, pizza and gelato, France has wine, the designer’s unique and tasteful use of

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 97 DELIGHTS|dEstiNatiONs

bright colours and vintage cuts. For din- prisingly wonderful things you’ll happen Sax Appeal ner, hop in a cab and head to the White- upon, try not to book hotels in advance friar Grill where the slow-cooked rabbit (unless you’re travelling in July or August, The Capital and the sticky toffee pudding made one of the busy season, which I wouldn’t recom- Region’s Premier the finest meals of the trip. mend), and pack in two full buffer days. Saxophone Quartet Where else to go in Dublin at night but Also, if Google Maps or your GPS says Temple Bar (Barra an Teampaill)? A popu- the drive will take two hours, allow three, lar spot for tourists, and charming with given the many single-lane and small its cobblestone streets and old buildings, community roads. it’s a good place to find a pub and watch More so than its big cities, Ireland is the people from all around the world share rolling hills, the incredible green flora that their love of Guinness and Jamieson’s gives the island its nickname, the fields of Irish whisky. If you can get a seat at one livestock, the ruins, oceanside golf courses of the local pubs a few hours before game and fishing villages. time (which sport doesn’t seem to matter), The first stop, and in some ways the you’re in for an uproarious evening. most awe-inspiring, is Newgrange (Sí an The next morning, grab breakfast at the Bhrú), a prehistoric religious site or tomb Queen of Tarts. The bright red façade, Al- (the debate continues). Built in approxi-

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Diplomatic functions Presidential visits ice in Wonderland ambiance and charm- mately 3000 BC, it’s widely seen as one Ministerial visits ing round bistro tables at the smaller of of the most important historic sites in the Corporate events two locations turned a simple breakfast country. On the tour, they’re proud to tell Cultural events into a warm memory. you how much older it is than the youth- Private parties Social events Well-fuelled, you can head to a tour of ful great pyramid of Giza and adolescent St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Built in the 1200s, Stonehenge. Speaking in superlatives, it’s its value is spiritual and historic. Portions the world’s oldest calendar-based sundial. of the cathedral’s interior are decorated The only way to tour Newgrange is to with aging and worn flags carried during head to the not-so-nearby visitors centre, wars over the past 150 years, and sev- buy tickets and get on a bus, which takes eral beautifully decorated plaques were you to the actual site. Otherwise, you may erected to honour the Irish who died in not find it. A short trip later, you receive the wars fought in South Africa and the an in-depth and passionate history lesson Sudan. The location of St. Patrick’s, as well from an informed tour guide. The Neo- as the cathedral’s name, can be attributed lithic art is especially captivating. to the accounts that Saint Patrick baptized Skip the interior tour if you’re claus- Christian converts in a nearby well in the trophobic. The room you’re going to visit 5th Century. could comfortably hold no more than a (613) 733-8761 A few general points on taking a driv- few people and, at points on the walk ing trip in Ireland: Thanks to the narrow through the narrow passageway, you’re [email protected] roads, numerous small towns and sur- touched by rocks simultaneously on both

98 FALL 2012 | OCT-NOV-DEC dEstiNatiONs|DELIGHTS

While the origin of the modern mean- ing of blarney is disputed, all agree that kissing the stone will bestow the kisser with the ability to converse in a smooth, flattering and disingenuous manner. (Kiss the blarney stone off-season, if you can, and very early in the morning and be ready for a high-pressure pace enforced by employees.) The next highlight of the trip, a few hours’ drive from Cork, was Skellig Michael (Sceilig Mhichíl), an island that holds a fantastically preserved monastery dating from the 7th Century. The island itself is tall, rocky and jutting and lies ap- proximately 10 kilometres off the south- western Irish coast. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage site and noted as an extreme example of monastic dedication, ascetic self-denial and isolation. The view from Sceilig Mhichíl, an island Boats head to the island once a day, that holds a preserved monastery dating so stay the night in the nearby town of from the 7th Century. Cahersiveen. The day of your trip, drive OLDS EY N the short distance to Portmagee, the fish- sides. Inside, it feels like a man-made cave ing village from which the boats depart. in which the ceiling is completed, at the The Ring of Kerry Hotel in Cahersiveen top centre of the chamber, with a single will do: it’s clean and good for a quick HOTOS BY JESSIE R large, flat stone. overnight stay. At the front desk, I learned P Above the entrance to the main cham- that the best way to get to the Great Skel- ALL ber is a constructed rectangular hole. lig was by phoning John of the red boat Built in the 1200s, St. Patrick’s Cathedral’s Through this hole, the sun’s rays enter at Portmagee’s dock. With only a few value is spiritual and historic. and spread a narrow band of light across minutes to spare, I finally found the right the chamber floor. This is the solar phe- harbour town, right dock, right John and of the country’s west-coast sites, such as nomenon that draws so many people to right boat. The Cliffs of Moher, Blarney Castle and the site. It can be witnessed on winter The warnings posted relating to Skellig numerous world-renowned coastal golf solstice — the shortest day of the year — if do not overstate the risks and shouldn’t courses. you’re lucky enough to hold one of the 50 be ignored. There are no washrooms, no When you arrive, check into the S.L.H.- winning lottery tickets for entrance into drinkable water and the island is cold approved Dunraven Arms. SLH, or Small the main chamber on December 21. Tens and windy. If you can’t walk up 600 steep Luxury Hotels, is a must-visit website of thousands of applications are received steps, smoothed by age, unbalanced and when planning travel. It has member ho- annually from around the world. shallow, keep the ferrymen company and tels in more than 70 countries (including In contrast, you can take the half-day enjoy the few hours of fantastic fishing. If Toronto’s Windsor Arms Hotel near Yor- trip from Newgrange to Cork and enjoy you choose to explore the island, you may kville and Bloor Street). Dunraven Arms is the quiet drive along the country roads still be offered some fish by the captain a fine, beautifully decorated 18th-Century and small towns, stopping where the during the return trip. The two hours to inn. The welcome package includes a de- mood catches you. explore the area allowed for a close look scription of available laundering services Once you arrive in Cork, Blarney at the monastic beehive-shaped stacked for hunting equipment, complete with a Castle is on the far side of town. Built in stone residences and ancient graveyard. half page dedicated solely to britches. the mid-1400s, it’s more than just a very And I was able to enjoy the view during The hotel offers a high-end traditional affectionate stone: It has a castle, manor, a small picnic I’d brought. Be careful on Irish breakfast buffet, maps for touring lake, extensive flower gardens, expansive the descent: Heading back down the steps the town and a layout that lends itself to grounds, a fern gully, a poison garden and was more treacherous than the ascent. exploring the art-covered hallways. After horse graveyard. Next stop: Adare. A small town among breakfast, I suggest a visit to the famous Many people have heard of kissing the hundreds of small towns in Ireland, Adare thatched-roof cottages across the street, Blarney Stone. I, however, was unaware populates a disproportionate number of Adare’s antique shops and family heri- that it was done while suspended upside- pages in all of the books as “Ireland’s Pret- tage sites. Then follow the locals to Aunty down on the castle’s top floor, over one of tiest Village.” No matter your preferences, Lena’s pub, established 1806, to enjoy a its many murder-holes. A murder-hole is Adare will fulfil them: Antiques, golf, pint of Bulmer’s Irish cider. an open space above a castle or fortress fine hotels, historic pubs, crafts, beautiful I spent a wonderful second night at entrance, which was used to pour hot gardens and parks, family heritage infor- Dunraven Arms and then headed off to oil or water, rocks or any other deterrent mation sites, churches and ruins. It’s also nearby national attraction, the Cliffs of down upon unwanted visitors. a convenient launching place to visit many Moher (Aillte an Mhothair). The grand

DIPLOMAT AND INTERNATIONAL CANADA 99 DELIGHTS|dEstiNatiONs

ditional breakfast — and if you’re going to try black pudding anywhere in Ireland, try it here — you have an unusual list of possible daytime activities. I opted for golf, archery, a golf cart rental for touring the property and clay pigeon shooting. Sadly, there was no time for fishing, horse- back riding or falconry. Perhaps being slightly more experi- enced at golf would be a good idea on this course. Tee-off times, it turns out, are non- negotiable. Luckily, I had a patient teacher. The highlight wasn’t the top-rated course (second of the world’s international golf courses by Condé Nast Traveler, 2010), its famous design (by Ron Kirby), or the green, rolling hills. It was the stone ruins mid-way through the course. I then headed to archery, and archery — if you aren’t practised — can challenge your upper-body, even with beginner bows. Patsy, the world’s most Irish person, is the teacher for many of the onsite activi- ties. Believe the hype popularized by The Hunger Games and Disney’s Brave — ar-

OLDS chery is plain old fun. It’s also one of the EY N

R sports where small suggestions made by your excellent coach immediately improve JESSIE results. Dromoland Castle Hotel and Country Estate, dating back to the 1400s, is the gold standard The off-site post-sports “dining event” in accommodations. was corny and touristy — and an absolute blast. Bunratty Castle & Folk Park Me- scale of the eight-kilometre expanse of Originally built in the 1400s and 1500s, dieval Banquet is held in a 1420s castle, sheer, stone cliffs astonishes visitors. The and updated over time until it reached its adorned with historic art, furniture and highest point of the cliffs is approximately current design in the mid 1800s, Dromo- gigantic mounted antlers. It offers live 200 metres. Bypass the more developed land Castle is one of a handful of five-star music, mead (honey wine), good fare and (paved) route towards O’Brien’s Tower, castle hotels in Ireland. Many have award- costumed servers and entertainers. an 1800s stone tourist viewing structure, winning golf courses, beautiful grounds, The next morning, before checkout, in favour of the path towards the far end spas and fine dining. I squeezed in some clay pigeon shoot- of the cliffs. There is enough to do to justify spend- ing with Patsy. Almost as entertaining as Soon, you’ll hit the end of the sanc- ing a week on site, living like an earl every archery, shooting isn’t as hard as it looks tioned portion of the cliff-side path. Now, minute. so I managed to connect with most of my follow the heavily walked trench around I spent several hours simply walking pigeons. Request Patsy’s plaid blanket to the stone wall, over the broken fence around the castle’s hallways and stair- fold over your shoulder to protect it from and past the corner of the farmer’s field. wells. Upgraded on check-in for no reason the shotgun’s kickback. You’ve now crossed into a narrow walk- other than unbelievable luck, I was able If you have more than a week in Ire- way between the fenced boundaries of the to stay on the second floor of the front land, add Burren’s limestone lunar land- nearby farms and the cliffs. As there’s no turret in a beautiful room with a view of scape, Northern Ireland’s rural towns fence or divider, be very careful. Some- the lake, golf course and deer-trodden and Belfast. Ireland, in many ways, is a times, the path will take you within inches grounds, including the archery range preferable destination to its more popular of the edge, but you can crouch and hold (more on that later). European counterparts. It has an incred- onto rocks as you pass. The walk to the far The social centre of the castle is its ibly long and varied history and an ex- point is several hours round trip; I com- restaurant, The Earl of Thomond. Yes, it tensive list of unique sites. Its size is also pleted half of it and enjoyed feeling the has been honoured with a Michelin star, well-suited to the single visit. Armed with strong ocean breeze, cliff-side. It’s one of yes the wine menu is at least 30 pages a good road map and warm jacket, you’ll the places in Ireland where you feel insig- long, and yes, the wallpaper is made of find nothing wanting from your memo- nificant, free and amazed by the immen- velvet. Select your libation (mine was a rable trip to the Emerald Isle. sity and permanence of very old places. 2009 Wither Hills Pinot Noir from New A one-hour drive from there, past Irish Zealand) and try the locally sourced, fresh Jessie Reynolds is a senior analyst (asset meadows and fields, will take you to the and delicious Malbay crab and Kinvara protection and crisis management) at gold standard in accommodations: Drom- smoked salmon salad. Barrick Gold Corp. Reach her at jreyn- oland Castle Hotel & Country Estate. The next day, after the obligatory tra- [email protected].

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