BUENOS AIRES ARGENTINA uenos Aires is like a love Bthat one can never forget… From the tango music echoing down the cobblestone streets of San Telmo to the delicious smells and tastes of Argentine beef asados and Malbec wines, there is something undeniably seductive about Buenos Aires. Located on the Río de la Plata on the South American east coast of Argentina, Buenos Aires is the country’s largest metropolitan area with over thirteen million porteños (people of the port). The port’s history is HISTORY marked by an influx of millions of immigrants during Argentine poet Jorge Luis Borges once wrote, “I find it hard to believe the 19th and 20th centuries, making Buenos Aires a Buenos Aires ever had a beginning”. It did have a historical start with city of mixed, colorful cultures. The fused cultural tra- the Querendí nomadic tribes who lived in the Buenos Aires area for ditions and European colonial architecture have led thousands of years before the Spanish arrived. It took two attempts many to refer to Buenos Aires as the Paris of South to successfully establish Buenos Aires as a Spanish colonial city. In America. 1580, the Spanish sent Juan de Garay to establish a fort on the foun- Comparisons with Europe are not enough to describe dation of Pedro de Mendoza’s failed settlement from 1536. What be- Buenos Aires. The past participates in a suggestive gan as a backwater fort in an estuary grew into a strong trading port dance with the present throughout the 48 barrios of for silver and slaves in the 1600s. The Spanish attempted to control the city. Just as La Boca, the colorful buildings are its trade by forcing all exports to go through the Viceroyalty capital memories of an era as the capital’s first port, Puer- of Lima. Local traders indignantly ignored the rules until 1776, when to Madero’s promenades display the modern face the Spanish Crown finally granted the port legal status as the capital of the Port of Buenos Aires. Palermo Viejo exudes of the Viceroyalty of Rio de la Plata. decades-old charm while the chic boutiques and res- On May 25, 1810, the Buenos Aires government ousted the Viceroy- taurants of Palermo Soho and Hollywood manifest the alty and began Argentina’s revolutionary movement, culminating in talents of fashion-conscious designers. Past icons of the 1816 formation of the United Provinces of the Rio Plata, formally Buenos Aires, like Diego Armando Maradona, Evita separating them from Spain. From the 1860s onwards, Buenos Ai- Peron, Ernesto “Che” Guevara, and Jorge Luis Borg- res attracted millions of European immigrants, especially from Italy, es, live on today as new generations both glorify and Spain, England, France, and Germany, giving the city’s culture and vilify these sons and daughters of the city. A tango of architecture a distinctly European flair. By the end of the 1800s, sev- generations, tradition and passion makes Buenos Ai- eral changes transformed Buenos Aires. In 1879, a bloody military res an alluring place that you feel, not just visit. With campaign against Argentina’s native tribes, called the “Conquista del one taste, the smell, the sights and sounds of Buenos Desierto” tragically cleared farmland that boosted the nation’s agri- Aires, it is all too easy to begin a lifelong love affair cultural economy. In 1880, the city became a federal district, making with this city. Buenos Aires the political and economic capital of Argentina. By the early 1900s, the city’s infrastructure had the functional and aesthetic characteristics of a modern metropolis. Political unrest spawned by the disparities between the Argentine rich and poor turned Buenos Aires into a city of extreme parties, protests, and © 2013 maps.com 13 7 12 4 11 3 10 5 9 8 6 1 2 military coups. In the 1940s, the city was a political stage for dence patriot; the current City Hall, and the oldest monument General Juan Peron and his wife, Evita Duarte Peron, who in Buenos Aires, and the May Pyramid, built in 1811. captivated the working class with the promise of the “third Italian immigrants to La Boca made the barrio into the position” between capitalism and communism. A series of 2 colorful area it is today. El Caminito is the neighbor- military coups and failed regimes, including the infamous hood’s most famous street, as tango dancers perform and “Dirty Wars” of the 1970s, rocked Buenos Aires, before fi- local artists sell their latest works. nally returning to democracy in 1983. Argentina’s liberalized capitalist policies of the 1990s spurred prosperity in Buenos The Recoleta Cemetery is no ordinary eternal resting Aires until the economy and political system finally imploded 3 place. A visit to the high-walled enclave of mausoleums in 2001. Despite rough times, the lure of the city’s sights and that enshrine Argentina’s most wealthy and notorious names culture has made Buenos Aires one of the top tourist destina- is a step back in time. Mourners still flock to Evita Peron’s tions in the world. grave, as well as those of politicians, writers, and other no- table Argentines. BUENOS AIRES PLACES OF INTEREST Palermo’s Parque Tres de Febrero is like an oasis in The political heart of Buenos Aires is the Plaza de Mayo 4 the middle of the city. The 965-acre park has a large, 1 in El Centro along the Avenida de Mayo, which is touted picturesque lake surrounded by several bridges, as well as a as one of the world’s widest avenues. It is named for the start planetarium with hundreds of roses and flowering plants. of Argentina’s independence movement on May 25, 1810. Parque Tres de Febrero is a short walk away from the The plaza is intimately connected to the nation’s history, as it 5 Zoological Gardens, another urban refuge filled with has been the scene of countless political events. The plaza polar bears, camels, elephants, and roaming peacocks. is surrounded by many capital landmarks, namely the Casa Rosada, the presidential palace; the Cabildo, the colonial city A trip to Buenos Aires is incomplete without a visit to headquarters; the Metropolitan Cathedral, with the adjacent 6 Plaza Dorrego, the heart of the barrio of San Telmo and Mausoleum of San Martin, the tomb of the national indepen- the second oldest plaza in the city. The Sunday antique mar- ket attracts locals and tourists alike who SHORE EXCURSIONS search for everything from old tango re- To make the most of your visit to Buenos Aires and surrounding areas we suggest cords to Evita memorabilia. you take one of our organized Shore Excursions. For information concerning tour Located in Palermo Chico, the Mu- content and pricing, consult your Shore Excursion Brochure or contact the Shore 7 seo de Arte Latinoamericano de Excursion Desk. When going ashore, guests are advised to take with them only Buenos Aires – MALBA for short – fea- the items they need and to secure any valuables. tures one of the world’s best collections of Latin American art. Permanent exhi- LOCAL CUSTOMS bitions include works by Frida Kahlo and Bargaining: Feel free to bargain at markets, but prices are fixed in stores and Diego Rivera. restaurants. Beyond Buenos Aires Tipping: Expect to tip 10% in restaurants. Located in the northern part of Greater Local Cuisine: Argentine cuisine boldly features its grass-fed cattle as its starring Buenos Aires, San Isidro is a city espe- role. In Buenos Aires, steakhouses abound where you can try a traditional parril- cially famous for its designation as the lada of grilled meats, including bife de lomo (filet mignon), bife de chorizo (bone-in Rugby National Capital. The Mitre Plaza sirloin), chorizos (spicy sausages), morcillas (blood sausage), and chinchulines has two levels, including a 1910 monu- (chitterlings). Be sure to also order provolta (thick cuts of grilled provolone cheese) ment dedicated to former President Bar- and buttery mollejas (sweetbreads). tolomé Mitre. Many Italian dishes have been adapted to the Argentine palate. Pizzas, fresh Follow the lead of many porteños who pastas, and milanesas (thin breaded meat often served with ketchup) dominate travel outside the city to the rural refuge local menus. Porteños even have a tradition of eating ñoquis (gnocchi) on the of nearby estancias (ranches). Visitors 29th day of the month for good luck. are welcome at several estancias that Porteños take their sweets seriously. Dulce de leche (caramelized condensed provide traditional gaucho (Argentine milk) fills everything from medialunas (croissants) to alfajores (cookie sandwich- cowboy) horse shows, as well as the op- es), dozens of ice cream flavors, and cakes (like milhojas). portunity to enjoy an Argentine asado Drink Specialties: Argentina’s signature red wine, Malbec, is “the” wine to pair (barbeque). with beef, cheese, and heavy pastas, thanks to its full-bodied character. Tor- A UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site rontés is the signature white wine grown only in Argentina. Fruity and fragrant, since 1984, Iguazú Falls is one of the Torrontés goes best with spicy foods, as well as light cheeses and seafood. Yerba most breathtaking spots in South Amer- Mate is not just Argentina’s national drink. It is a national custom. Traditionally ica. The Iguazú River starts in Brazil brewed in a mate (gourd) and drunk through a bombilla (a silver sieved straw), and then flows mate is meant to be shared among a group of friends. over 270 water- falls along the Ar- SHOPPING FACILITIES gentine-Brazilian Buenos Aires’ best souvenirs include leather and silver products. For the best border, the most stores, visit the central shopping area along Calle Florida and Avenida Santa Fe, spectacular and which stretches from the west side of Plaza San Martin.