The Magazine Vol 1 Summer 2007 Project

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OUR MISSION

The Cooking Project Magazine™ (TCP) celebrates wholesome, delicious, and beautiful found everywhere around the world. It’s a free e-zine for sharing articles and stories about good food, where to find it, how to cook, serve and eat it, what to drink with it, interviews with chefs, growers, and people that just like to eat. It is a forum for authentic recipes, folklore, culinary history, and cooking tips –all for free!

The Cooking Project Magazine™ is about food prepared with love and eaten with gusto. This unique e-zine offers the chance to step away from the mundane and revel in the aromas of a purring kitchen. Subscribe now to savor the sublime secrets cradled in a wooden spoon, catch the last drop of tinto on the tip of your tongue, and peer into the steamy mystery of a kettle.

Good tasting, wholesome are within everyone’s reach. Cultural cooking is featured with restaurants highlighted for your dining pleasure and contact information for purveyors of genuine and hard-to-find ingredients.

The Cooking Project Magazine™  Table of Contents

4 Letter From the Editors 5 Our Contributing Authors 6 TCP’s Featured - Maria Monteil 7 Interview with Maria Monteil 8 La Cocina - La Esencia Y Esencial Argentine Cooking - the essence and essential 10 Wally Ronchietto - Mendoza to Santa Barbara 11 Timoteo “Dino” Saluzzi - Bandoñeonista 14 , Province and Capital 15 Centollas Y Cholgas - King Crab and Mussels 16 Heavenly Delights in Barcelona 19 Walnut - The Rising Star of Oils 21 Recipes

The Cooking Project Magazine™  Letter from the Editor

Welcome to the Cooking Project Magazine™, our seasonal, subscribers-only, free e-zine devoted to good, healthy food, authentic recipes, and the rich variety of , ingredients, and gastronomical wisdom found throughout the world.

We, the editors of The Cooking Project Magazine™ and founders of The Cooking Project™, are an unlikely trio of food aficionados united by a love for cultural variety in the kitchen, a larder stocked with fresh, wholesome ingredients, something tasty to wash it all down with, and the goal of sharing ideas so everyone can cook and eat well -in the comfort of their own home and with the people they choose.

The editorial line-up: Margaret Nies, former llama rancher, one foot always in the out-of-doors, is a consummate team player with a life-long love for eating home cooking, the communion of a bountiful with family and friends, and searching out the sublime beauties of nature. Dave Reeser, an accomplished artist and fine print maker, is intrigued by the process of fixing a good food, holds a deep appreciation for anyone that takes the time and energy to create a real meal, lives and works with a deft aesthetic touch, and proudly owns his college nickname of Fry Pan Dave. David Van Winkle, as much a gourmand as a , is a pushover for exotic aromas, fresh ingredients, simple recipes, and has the found the kitchen to be one his favorite classrooms for studying the Spanish language.

One goal of the Cooking Project™ is to present food and drink in context with cultural and historical references and personal, if not curious, anecdotes.

We are determined to share our love and perspectives of what goes into our , onto our plates, and is shared at our dinner tables. To ensure that our table is shared with as many food lovers as possible, much of what we present will be offered in English and Spanish. The Cooking Project Magazine™ is published seasonally to capture and offer up the varieties and variations pushing up out of gardens, browning in ovens, and simmering on stove tops around the world.

It is our hope that you join us on this adventure of discovery and sharing. Again, welcome and to your health.

David Van Winkle Dave Reeser Margaret Nies

The Cooking Project Magazine™  Our Contributing Authors

Maria Monteil, born and raised in , Argentina, represents the next generation of Argentine culinary artists. Having begun cooking as a child, preparation of traditional recipes comes with ease, yet Maria has a love for experimentation and developing new recipes. Her passion for exploring new recipes is expressed especially in vegetarian dishes combining new flavors and aromas. Maria has trained with Argentine chef and culinary personality, Dolli Irigoyen, and most recently at the Gato Dumas Cooking College. Maria currently uses her talent as Executive Chef with MOM, specializing in catering and special events, and as a cooking instructor at a vocational school serving the developmentally disabled with the objective of students becoming independent and ready for integration into the workplace. The school, La Fundador, is public and was founded by Maria Inés Nadal.

Wally Ronchietto, founder and owner of Café Buenos Aires and Brick’s Café, popular eateries located on Santa Barbara’s signature State Street, provides The Cooking Project with cultural notes about the Argentine palate, food production and the family pantry, indigenous influences, and why poultry and livestock raised on the are so tasty. Read Wally’s article on page 10, La Cocina Argentina -la esencia y esencial, and Bio on page 11 to find out how an electrical engineer made his way the province of Mendoza to Santa Barbara, CA and metamorphosed in to a restauranteur.

Nicolas “Nick” Robertson, retired from the U.S. Information Service (USIS), is an accomplished cook, vibraphonist, and writer. Nick, as cultural attaché with USIS, has lived in Barbados, Argentina, Ghana, Nigeria, to name a few countries, and had the privileged experience of breaking with presidents, ambassadors, and Nobel laureates in 5-star restaurants, village elders in waddle and daub huts, deckhands and scientists in the pitching galley of a wooden research boat in the Antarctic, and gauchos seated at hewn wooden tables under a tree. Nick writes with a seasoned insight and measure of humor that comes from years of travel and an appreciation of the people he has met along the way.

The Cooking Project Magazine™  TCP’s Featured Chef - Maria Monteil

f I am asked at in that way I changed them until I found what I what moment in liked and made the recipe my own. my life I decided to dedicate myself I have to say that I have burned a lot of things, Ito cooking, I have to thrown desserts in the trash that were inedible; say that there was everyone in my family has been my devoted no one special day tester (and that has not always been a pleasant but rather the pas- job!). I believe that learning from our errors is sion for cooking was the best way to grow, and it has served me as born with me and the way to find a balance and my own style. simply grew day by day. I never consid- In order to know me a bit more, I have to introduce ered it as a profes- you to my family. Thanks to my mother, I learned sion, and therefore to be perseverant and not give up easily the first when it came time to time a recipe doesn’t come out right, to not get choose a career it was not an option. I tried dif- discouraged and always want to improve myself. ferent universities, but nothing attracted me. And more than anything, to not be satisfied Finally I decided that I did not have to look any until a dish comes out perfect. I will always be farther because my calling, the art of food, had grateful to her for having taught me how to fly been with me ever since the beginning. with my own wings, for always having faith in me, and giving me the necessary tools in order But let’s go back in time to get to know me a little to realize my potential. If my mother would not better. I remember one day, when I was very have supported me since that very first instant small, I decided to make a simple, instant cake. cake, I would not be who I am today or continue In my house, my mother always encouraged working to improve every day. each personal project that I undertook. So being only 9 years old, I made my first cake. I got so I am French on my father’s side and because of many compliments and congratulations, I could that have a special taste for food. I inherited from not believe it. Being little, I felt so important and him my passion for eating well, good flavors and was so moved that it made me want to keep on balance, and also to enjoy the ritual of cooking experimenting and surprising everyone with new that begins with choosing a menu starting with dishes. After that I added nuts to the next one, the freshest seasonal products, their preparation, chocolate to another, another fruit, and that’s how and finally to enjoy it with people that you love. slowly I began developing my own style –starting with a simple instant cake! I also inherited from him a respect for whomever runs the kitchen, even though not having the title This need to discover new secrets in the kitchen of an academy trained chef, he is without a doubt took hold of me when I was little, and that being the best cook in the family. the case the only way to learn was to keep reading and trying recipes. To this day I feel the same I carry within me memories filled with aromas, emotion reading new recipes as I do when I read flavors, sensations, and many unforgettable a storybook. images, that as my friend says: “They are the flavors rooted in our emotional memory.” This One day I wasn’t happy with the way the recipe I does not have anything to do with a specific was trying had come out, so I changed the amount condiment, but rather a feeling that accompanies of lard, added eggs, more liquid, less flour; and an experience, a special moment, a situation

The Cooking Project Magazine™  TCP’s Featured Chef - Maria Monteil that comes to life each time we stimulate our palate with memories. The

In life, there are things that one is born with and others that one learns. I was born with my father’s passion for food CookingProject and life’s pleasures, and it was my mother that formed me as a person, molded my character and above all taught me if you are not already a subscriber how to respect work. I am very proud of and grateful to my parents, who each one in their own way, have always given me the best. SUBSCRIBE NOW Because all of these things cooking is a blend of feelings that are very difficult for me to explain; at times very difficult, Maria Monteil yet so gratifying as few other things in life are. TCP Traditional Argentine Cooking

Prepare an Argentine Dinner Party from hors d’oeuvres to dessert

aria has developed several cooking videos, 3 Instructional DVDs the first of which can be downloaded on The MCooking Project website, TheCookingProject. View clip at net. Several of the recipes are included in this issue. Maria’s first series is devoted to traditional Argentine www.thecookingproject.net cooking. We believe you will come to know and love Maria’s presentation and recipes.

Featuring work by: Janna Sheehan Carolyn Fox Sandy Wolk LuMar Designs Kandace Pearson Linda Harmon Susie Swan Sooz Glazebrook and David Reeser

Shop at www.OjaiOriginals.com

The Cooking Project Magazine™  Interview with Maria Monteil

hat types of cooking you enjoy the most? I really Qué clase de cocina disfrutas más? La que Wenjoy cooking dishes using the ingredients that ¿ surge a partir de ingredientes que tengamos we have in our house at a given moment without any en nuestra casa, sin previa planificacion. Sobre planning. Most of all I like to work with people that todo me gusta trabajar en conjunto con gente que also like to cook and play with flavors and each other’s tambien le guste la cocina y jugar con los sabores preferences. I enjoy inventing recipes or adding new y gustos de cada uno. Me divierte mucho inventar flavors to traditional recipes a lot. recetas o agregarle sabores nuevos a recetas tradicionales. oes your daughter share with you your love of Dcooking? A very special tie bonds Cande and I Tu hija comparte contigo este aficcion para la together. Since she was very little she has played ¿ gastronomía? Con Cande nos une un lazo muy among pots and pans. She enjoys very much the especial, desde muy pequeña ha jugado entre smells she discovers every time her mom prepares ollas y sartenes. Disfruta mucho de los olores que something tasty to share. When I am cooking, she percibe cada vez que su mama prepara algo rico always wants to help. It is a very special moment that para compartir. Siempre que estoy cocinando we enjoy together. She is also very critical of me. She quiere ayudarme, es un momento muy especial doesn’t hesitate a second to tell me when she doesn’t que disfrutamos juntas. Tambien es muy critica like something, but in the same way she congratulates conmigo, ya que no duda un segundo en decirme me each time she eats something that delights her.. cuando algo no le gusta. Pero de la misma forma me felicita cada vez que come algo que le ow do traditional dishes fit in with your love of encanta! Hexperimentation? In my search for new dishes, I don’t limit myself to only Argentine but try Como nos puede explicar la relacion entre new styles as well. This quest makes me want to ¿ la cocina argentina tradicional y tu amor de explore and discover new flavors. At times it’s as if the crear y inventar platos nuevos? En la busqueda kitchen has become a great big laboratory where I test de nuevos platos no me relacione solamente con different proportions, new flavors, , looking for la cocina Argentina, pruebo distintos estilos. Esa the balance and in searching find an infinite number of busqueda me lleva q querer explorar y descubrir nuances. nuevos sabores. En esos momentos es como si la cocina se transformara en un gran laboratorio hat inspires you? Generally I get an idea or try donde pruebo distintas proporciones, nuevos Wa dish and want to improve it. I guide myself sabores, especies, buscando asi el equilibrio que by intuition, looking for what I like. I also do a lot of quiero y descubriendo en su busqueda infinidad research, read, and try lots of recipes. de matices.

Qué es lo que te inspira? Por lo general ¿ me viene una idea o pruebo algun plato y lo quiero mejorar. Me manejo mucho con la intuicion buscando asi lo que a mi me gusta. Tambien investigo mucho , leo y pruebo muchas recetas.

TCP

The Cooking Project Magazine™  La Cocina Argentina – la esencia y esencial Argentine Cooking – the essence and essential

By Wally Ronchietto Most world meat producers insist on rapid growth and pump their cows with steroids to produce rgentines buy their food supplies daily, tender meat. That tenderness is achieved by sometimes twice a day. In every neigh- including large amounts of fat in the meat. When borhood there is a butcher, a produce cooked, the fat melts and creates voids in the stand, a baker and an almacen (a place meat only giving an illusion of tenderness. Awhere dry goods (flour, , sugar, wine, dry , cold cuts, etc., are sold), all within a cou- Argentine meat is not very tender because the ple of blocks. cattle have to walk to find grass. About three acres of grassland are allocated per head of cattle. Argentina is not an industrialized country, Also because steroids are not used to plump therefore huge food processing plants do not the cattle, is leaner and thus not exist, nor are they economically feasible since as tender, but in exchange for tenderness, a the entire population of the country is only 30 flavorful meat is obtained. Argentine beef has a million inhabitants, less than the population of very distinct flavor, almost gamey due to these California, in a territory that is about half the size natural methods. of the United States.

Beef is the staple of the country. The estimated cattle population is 95 million, which is more than three cows per person. Cattle are raised naturally, free roaming in pastures where it is free of acid rain. No fertilizer is used on the grasslands, the famous pampas, the word meaning prairie. Cattle that are raised in this manner, produces meat that contains omega three fatty acids, one third of the cholesterol and about one half of the fat as cattle fed from stainless steel or plastic bins inside barns. Eating from the ground is the magic.

In Argentine restaurants we only serve from cattle raised in this manner. I eat red meat twice a day and would probably be dead by now if I were to consume regular meat, regardless Due to all these reasons, the emphasis in Argentine of whether it is Black Angus or any other breed. cooking is to retain the flavor of the ingredients. When the cattle are mostly kept in barns, they Strong or spices that may hide natural get sick, and then antibiotics are needed. It is not flavors are very rarely used. In Argentina, mild the pedigree, but how the cattle are raised that herbs are most commonly used to flavor food. is important. Parsley, , sage, , and occasionally

The Cooking Project Magazine™  La Cocina Argentina (continued) are used in , grains or ground beef dishes, In Argentina, you might be surprised but not on steaks so as not to alter the taste. Steaks are only by the different looks and smells of seasoned with salt, typically coarse salt, and shortly before common ingredients. Chickens are cooking. Finely ground salt dehydrates the meat, resulting in normally very large and an intense juice loss. yellow color. The flavor is also quite are probably one of the few exceptions. Thin different from what many people steaks are breaded and deep fried. This dish, an adaptation are used to. The flavors and aromas of weinerschnitzel, was brought to Argentina by Italian of produce are more intense. I immigrants who got the recipe from Italian soldiers that had believe this is because of the natural fought in Austria. Milan was one of the few cities to adopt growing methods used. This manner them into their menu, therefore the name “”. of producing food is not necessarily because are more health Garlic is also used, but mainly as a starting ingredient for conscious but again a function of a . Garlic is rarely consumed raw, as it is considered economy. Pesticides and fertilizers offensive. Many sauces are prepared by sautéing garlic; are expensive, and the fertility of the when the garlic is golden, onions are added and when they soil and temperate climate permits become transparent the main ingredient for the sauce growing produce without their use. (tomatoes, mushrooms, bell peppers or whatever is decided) TCP is added. Everything is slightly sautéed, and then broth may be added.

Strong meats such as goat or wild boar, etc are often marinated in . A traditional sauce, chimichurri is prepared with oil, wine, vinegar and a variety of herbs. This is done to counter the strong flavor of the game.

Argentina, along with France, Spain, Italy, Uruguay, and many others is a country where foodstuff is plentiful and fresh, offering a generally mild cuisine.

Barbecuing is an Argentine passion. It is always done over very low hearth with few coals to prevent flames from touching the meat which would give it a bitter flavor. It is also a common belief in Argentina that burned meat causes certain illnesses.

Ironically, despite the famous beef, when barbecuing () Submit your favorite one-skillet recipe Argentines like to consume the organs. This is probably and see how it stands up against the because of their limited availability. In a two thousand best. Bust out that fry pan that got pound cow, there are only about two pounds of you through college, fed you during (thymus glands). Kidneys, livers, intestines (chinchulines) and lean times, and put it to the challenge () are also added to the grill. The generic one more time. name for these organs is “achuras”, a Quechua Indian word meaning “trash”, since the Indians did not consume any of Go to www.TheCookingProject.net organs.

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 10 Wally Ronchietto - Mendoza to Santa Barbara

ally Ronchietto was born in Mendoza, After a long vacation in Argentina with family, Wally Argentina, at the feet of the Cordil- decided it was time for a change and left the sciences leras Andes (Andes mountain chain). to open a small bistro, Café Buenos Aires, with his Wally’s father, born to Italian émigrés wife on the corner of Anacapa and Victoria Streets in Win New York City, moved to Argentina at the downtown Santa Barbara. The café quickly outgrew age of 12. Wally’s maternal grandfather was an its location and after five years, the Café Buenos immigrant Spaniard from Galicia and his grand- Aires moved into its current location, a beautiful mother was 50% English and 50% Argentine. building designed by his architect wife, on upper Wally Ronchietto is a true product of the Argen- State Street directly across from Santa Barbara’s tine melting pot and a classic representation of landmark Arlington Theater. typical Argentine heritage. Café Buenos Aires, featuring Argentine food, is a popular focal point for Argentines in Santa Barbara and from up and down California’s central coast. A number of Argentine Chefs were consulted to develop the menu, of particular note the mother of world- known Argentine Chef Francis Malman. A section of the menu features exclusively traditional family recipes from Mendoza. Live, authentic music has been showcased every Wednesday for the last

Left Martín Lértora Nowacke, manager and Wally Ronchietto After earning MA degrees in Electronics and Electrical Engineering at the University of Mendoza, Wally moved to Santa Barbara in 1973 to study physics at the University of California at Santa Barbara (UCSB). In 1975, he received his MA in scientific instrumentation. With his MA from UCSB in hand, Wally returned to Mendoza. There he taught as a full professor at the National Technological University 10 years and draws a loyal following of dancers. and collaborated on research with the National In 2006, Wally opened his second restaurant, Brick’s Institute of Seismic Prevention in San Juan. Café, on lower State Street. Brick’s Café is the only non-chain restaurant in Santa Barbara open In 1977, Wally was drawn back to Santa Barbara until 1:00 a.m., ensuring local concert and cultural for its academic and professional opportunities. patrons a place to have a late dinner after He worked at several companies before hiring on performances and enjoy live music into the early with Delco Systems Operations in 1978 where he morning hours. remained for the next 14 years. TCP

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 11 Timoteo “Dino” Saluzzi - Bandoñeonista

By Nick Robertson bandoñeon evokes Buenos Aires, just as its smaller cousin the musette evoked an earlier alta, Argentina: The internationally Paris. Saluzzi, though, has taken the bandoñeon known bandoñeonista Timoteo “Dino” far beyond its usual setting in tango and folk Saluzzi returned home in triumph on music ensembles into jazz groups and symphony S March 17, 2007, inaugurating the Cen- orchestras. tro Cultural Saluzzi in the working class neigh- borhood of his family home here. Over 2000 Invented and produced in the mid-19th century of his friends and neighbors stood transfixed in Germany (and named after Heinrich Band, the for over two hours as Saluzzi led the family inventor of the instrument), the bandoñeon is band and cellist Anja Lechner, leader of the an elaborate, multi-voiced concertina designed Rosamunde String to provide a portable instrument with the power Quartet, in a pro- and authority of a church organ. “It is a very gram offering his expressive instrument, and it works whether own folk flavored you play softly or want to come in with the power of a full orchestra,” Saluzzi explains. “Its presence in Argentina is one of those fortunate coincidences of art and marketing. It was a very inexpensive instrument that offered the full range of a piano and became a very popular instrument in immigrant households in Argentina in the 19th century, so a lot of people learned to play it. For both tango and folk music, a century ago, the logical instrumentation was the guitar and bandoñeon, since these were the two most jazz compositions and chamber pieces, as well accessible instruments. The repertoire was as reworkings of a tango or two. The group developed because took the stage for a final encore, a jazz version the bandoñeon was of a popular carnavalito, as fireworks lit the there.” sky in tribute to the center’s inauguration. A Swiss film crew captured it all on behalf of ECM Saluzzi was born in records, which has included Saluzzi among its 1935 to a musical list of artists for 25 years. Cellist Lechner was family in Campo saluted with the bouquet of roses traditional in Santo, a village concert halls, before being mobbed by teenage set among sugar girls from the neighborhood asking for photos plantations an and autographs as if she were a rock star. The hour outside of the setting and the performance were emblem- provincial capital, Salta. “There are two versions atic of Dino Saluzzi – adventurous but emotive of the origin of the name,” Saluzzi explains. music, with the warmth of family and friends at “One is that after a flood soon after the town a local dance. was settled by the Spaniards many people were buried there, so it became known as Campo Saluzzi is the master of the bandoñeon, the Santo (Holy Ground, a reference to a cemetery). mournful sounding cousin of the accordion and The other version is that everybody realized that concertina that is the tone of the tango. The anything you planted in that area would grow. It

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 12 Timoteo “Dino” Saluzzi - Bandoñeonista (continued) was like a Paradise, a holy ground. I always liked tango and folk music had a pride of place all to think that we lived in a paradise rather than a over Latin America. Somehow, from a period cemetery.” of effervescence and creativity, and international recognition that included the arrival of Piazzola on His musical career began when he first picked up the scene with his new compositions, we entered his father’s bandoñeon at age 7, and he would a period in which we were supposed to compete spend hours by gas lamps playing classical scores in small, specialized national markets.”

In the late 60s he began collaborating with saxophonist Leandro “Gato” Barbieri, who at that time was a leading international figure in avant garde jazz. “I found myself most comfortable with jazz musicians. It is a music that offers great freedom, but requires at the same time tremendous discipline. With jazz musicians and jazz audiences, I found that I could fit in folk music, or tango, all the music that had influenced me. I could compose a tango, or a zamba, and on the bandoñeon in the adobe huts of the sugar jazz musicians could play it. Even today, when plantation where his father worked. He began playing professionally in Campo Santo at age 13 and became a folk music star in the Andean region of Argentina before leaving for Buenos Aires to play in the country’s leading tango orchestras in the 50s and 60s. While entirely self-taught, he is thoroughly at home in the world of classical music and performed as a percussionist for seven years with the Federal Police Band as it was being transformed from a brass ensemble to a symphony orchestra. He recorded with Argentina’s leading folk and tango groups, in addition to leading his own ensembles.

His eclecticism would have been an advantage in Piazzola‘s compositions are known all over the other circumstances, but he chafed at the narrow world, I find that musicians outside of Argentina categorization of the Argentine music world. really play the compositions. At home, I hear “When I first arrived in Buenos Aires, it was an people imitating Astor, and that isn’t the same important time for music, and Argentine culture. thing at all. “ The emergence of Borges, Piazzola, Waldo de los Rios. There was an effervescence in the arts, For over 25 years he found a home and a certain innocence necessary for a spiritual and international audience in the world of jazz. His emotional approach. At one time, Argentine first real jazz recording was ’s music was sold from here to Puerto Rico. Anibal Latin America in 1973. George Grunz, the Troilo (the classic bandoñeon player of the tango Swiss pianist and band leader, heard Saluzzi orchestras) played at carnival in Brazil, and in Italy and invited him to join his big band in

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 13 Timoteo “Dino” Saluzzi - Bandoñeonista (continued)

Switzerland in 1980. Since then, Saluzzi has split his time between Europe and Argentina. He has performed and recorded with Grunz, saxophonist , bassist , and guitarist Al deMeola among others. There are currently a dozen CDs out with him as a leader, and another dozen featuring him with other groups. His ECM recording was voted best jazz album of 2006 by European critics.

As broad and encompassing as it is, even the jazz world can’t contain Saluzzi. There is very little formal or academic music written for the bandoñeon, so Dino has written his own music for symphonic and chamber orchestras. He began a US tour in April with Anja Lechner, one of the most highly regarded cellists in Europe, performing his compositions that, for want of a better word, are chamber music.

Saluzzi is a tough interview. You can spend days with Saluzzi without hearing reminiscences, without any reference to past triumphs. The past falls by the wayside as he expands on his new projects, works in process, or collaborations with new musicians. He sums up his aesthetic philosophy succinctly: “If it doesn’t change, if it doesn’t grow, it isn’t art.” The same drive that kept the lamps burning late at night in Campo Santo decades ago keeps Saluzzi changing and growing as an artist. TCP

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 14 Salta, Province and Capital

By Nick Robertson Salta is as distinctive to the palate as it is to the eye and ear. While generous helpings of well- he Province of Salta is situated in the grilled beef abound, Salta’s culinary traditions were northwest of Argentina and borders three established well before the arrival of the Spanish countries: Chile, Bolivia, and Paraguay, and in 1594. Salteños will start a meal with , six Argentinian provinces: Jujuy , Formosa, steamed dumplings made of grated fresh corn TChaco, Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, and Cata- and cheese, or , a meat filling encased in marca. steamed corn meal (unlike the Mexican version, these tamales are made with corn meal that has Salta is unique for its geographic and climatic not been soaked in quicklime). The pride of the heterogeneity that ranges from the desert cold local kitchen is , a that can include just of the Andes and the Puna to the subtropical heat about anything but must always include white of the jungle after crossing cool fertile valleys, beans and pumpkin or squash. Pride of place on mountains, and rivers. the grill is given to kid rather than beef.

The central market, located downtown, has a pronounced regional accent. Local cheeses, aged and fresh, made from both cow and goat abound. Stalls feature coriander leaf (cilantro), and a variety of peppers of varying degrees of strength, including the tiny and fiercely hot peppers that, pickled, appear on the table at every home meal. A variety of squash and calabashes share the shelves with tropical fruits such as mangos along with peaches and plums. Stalls feature common herbs such as basil, mint and cilantro along with those used for traditional medicines. Many Salteños have a slight swelling along their gums; this isn’t a marketing triumph for chewing tobacco, but the very old tradition of chewing coca Salta, the provincial capital, is a different, older leaves for the mild stimulation provided along with Argentina. It is a city that prospered as an a catalogue of claimed health benefits. agricultural and mining center during the 17th and 18th centuries as part of the Viceroyalty of The region has always produced wines for local Peru. The central plaza with its Cathedral and consumption, including a very fruity and robust cabildo, and the people filling the plaza are clearly torontes that is a local favorite. In the past decade not products of the European immigrants that investment has poured into Cafayate, the valley created Buenos Aires. When you hop into a local that is the center of the province’s wine industry, taxi, rather than the dramatic strains of the tango, and the wines of Salta are now among the best radios blare the zamba, afro-altiplano ballads in a in Argentina and enjoy a growing international slow 6/4 time. reputation. TCP

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 15 Centollas y Cholgas King Crab and Mussels

By Nick Robertson our equipment. Since neither Argentines nor Chileans had much money in those days, the entollas and Cholgas – from the galley of medium of exchange was always barrels of the Hero*, Antaractic research vessel of centollas. the Nacional Science Foundation. Ush- uaia, Argentina 1977-1978. The centollas had bodies the size of a small C plate with foot long legs and claws attached. Thirty years ago Ushuaia was remote, a A fifty-gallon drum would be delivered to town of about 7,000 with daily flights from the galley, and then filled with centollas and Buenos Aires. The Argentine phone system seawater. The largest pots available would was notoriously unreliable in Buenos Aires; be set to boil on the stove, and the crabs much less in Tierra del Fuego, and much of cooked one at a time – a process that took communication was handled by ham radio several hours, because of the vast quantities operators. There was a military base, the of water that had to be brought to a boil. Until old prison, and a small fishing industry that we got halfway through the barrel, someone sent north the South Atlantic king crab called would have to stand guard over the centollas to keep them from climbing out of the barrel and falling to the deck – unlike the legend, or perhaps merely unlike other crabs, they did not conspire to pull each other back.

For days after we would dine on centolla. We never bothered to dress it up, gratinee it, or mix it with other ingredients. Cold or hot, we simply cracked the legs and claws and ate them with butter, lemon, perhaps a bit of hot Chilean peppers. They were delicious, and the ease of getting at the meat ruined me for later years in Washington DC and the scrawny little creatures from the Chesapeake that are a Maryland tradition.

I haven’t bought centollas lately: they have become very expensive, and, with the boom in tourism and exports and all, it is probably centolla ( sen – tō’ – ya, or, in Argentina, sen endangered. Fishing practices were appalling – tō’ – zha). in the late 70s on the Beagle Channel, as rival In this small world, the Hero, the wooden Chilean and Argentine fishermen were less hulled Antarctic research vessel owned by the concerned with sustaining the harvest than National Science Foundation, on which I was with making certain that they got more than the cook, had the best metal working shop their rivals no matter the size of the harvest. in Ushuaia and the best store of parts and supplies. Fishermen would frequently approach Cholgas are the huge mussels harvested in us to ask about having a part replaced, or a the southern waters that were featured on piece machined, or a small repair made with the menus of all local restaurants. No matter

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 16 Centollas y Cholgas King Crab and Mussels (continued) how big mussels are, getting the sand out of them is an art that few seem to master (for the record, the only place I ever found really clean cholgas was in Talcahuano, a port in southern Chile where we spent a few months ,%!2.)4(% .',).%-%$)! in dry-dock. Whether the mussels are naturally cleaner or the people of Talcahuano merely more diligent about cleaning them wasn’t clear). Cholgas were too tough to Digital Publishers of Instructional and eat raw, and were served in a sort of local Resource Materials bouillabaisse or steamed open and cooked with sauce and cheese in the oven. They were never a particular favorite, and weren’t Streaming Video served on the Hero; they had a strong flavor, DVD and CD and tended to be tough (they looked like Print tires cut for sandals, and local rubber-soled sandals were called cholgas). Website Design Management If you have the opportunity to try centollas do not miss the chance, on the other hand, the cholgas may not be as gratifying. Visit www.theLearningLineMedia.com *At about 1030 (local time) on March 28, 1968, the National Science Foundation’s new research ship began sliding down the ways Or e-mail at the Harvey F. Gamage shipyard in South [email protected] Bristol, Maine. At that moment, the ship’s sponsor, Mrs. Leland J. Haworth, wife of the Foundation’s director, cracked the traditional 805-646-8604 bottle of champagne against the vessel’s bow and proclaimed, “In the name of the United States, I christen thee Hero. TCP

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 17 Heavenly Delights in Barcelona

aelum, a small business in an odd building this time, they devoted themselves to travel ling on an awkward corner in Barcelona’s Bar- throughout Spain in search of suppliers. They also rio Gòtic has become a classic. The prod- had to postpone opening so long because of the ucts found in this bit of heaven, Caelum’s initial reticence of the monasteries. “To sell their Cmeaning in Latin, are prepared by cloistered products at their place of origin is one thing, but nuns and monks in monasteries. it’s something quite different to export them to a shop in Barcelona” explains Conxita. Nonetheless, Caelum was established by Conxita Mont and with patience, they were able to overcome those Gemma Arruga, who both have a passion for the initial suspicions and today Caelum is a monastic recipes and way of life of the medieval era. “We cookbook open to the world. were attracted by the quality of the foods, their preparation, their secret formulas and ancient Hidden Enchantment methods, many of which date back to the Middle Ages.” This passion finally lead them, in May of The store, which is very pleasant, keeps hidden 1998, to open Caelum, which sells delicacies and one of its most eclectic enchantments; it is a other monastic temptations. space, beneath the floor of the establishment referred to as The Crypt, which housed ancient Nine years passed between the incarnation of sacred Jewish baths. The walls, with spectacular the concept and the opening of the store. During arches, have been carefully reconditioned. In this unusual and historical spot are tables where one can sit far from the hustle and bustle outside, while tasting any one of Caelum’s many delicacies. This, combined with relaxing music makes the busy world seem far, far away. Everything that is for sale in the store can be consumed in this unique environment. One can drink a variety of coffees and teas, communion winds, sweet wines, and liquors produced in monasteries. Toasted bread with garlic or walnuts dipped in melted cheese, olive pates or escalibada (fire roasted peppers, egg plant, onions, or a mixture of the same, marinated in olive oil with garlic are also available). When it’s cold outside, steaming soups are served.

Caelum Products - A Bit of Heaven

Everything sold in Caelum, smells divine and glorious. Their sweet delicacies are especially notable. Preparing these delicious temptations, requires the gift and grace that only nuns and monks possess for making monastic .

Caelum offers an endless variety of natural products, sweets, salted and liquors,

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 18 Heavenly Delights in Barcelona (continued) coming from 35 Spanish monasteries. Highlights marmalade from fruit from their fields.” are jam from the Clarisas de Santa Maria de Marchena (Sevilla), little marzipan In addition to the food, one can purchase lace, filled with apple compote of the Carmelitas embroidery, and needlepoint made cloistered Descalzas de Calahorra (La Rioja), Santa Teresa’s nuns. Also paintings and artistic crafts from egg yolks, whiskey distilled in a monastery in convents in South America are for sale.

Monastic Gastronomic Traditions

The first recipes and gastronomic references were prepared in monastic kitchens. The liturgical calendar is reflected in Caelum’s offerings. For example, around Easter Week, panallets (pine nut ) –a medieval dessert from the Clarist nuns of Sevilla and Badajoz are available. At Christmas the shelves are filled with every possible type of turron.; from yolk to chestnut to chocolate.

Down through the centuries, the kitchen in the monasteries has been a faithful compliment to the life of prayer. The religious studied the best ways to build a kitchen and came up with the ideal diet according to their respective communities. Accompanied by rhythm lutes, daily prayers, vespers, and full hours of outward silence and interior order, the convents stove tops cooked up Edinburg, sweets from Santa Clara, beer brewed recipes that are still in use today. The kitchen by a Belgian Trappists, truffles and honey from has been one of the many wise avenues of Sandy Cito, sheep cheese aged in a collegiate monasteries, a path between the material world church, table wine from Pagos de la Ribera del provided by nature and the transcendental goal Duero and sweets from the Puerta del Angel. of human life. Food is the good taste of faith.

“They are natural products, unprocessed. They’re Ora et labora (pray and work) is one of the basic not like anything that is found on the open market. tenets of monastic life. Together with prayer, Moreover they are not fattening. All of these monasteries have developed a variety of activities sweets come from an era in which refrigerators to sustain the community: making confections, were not needed,” explains Conxita. restoring antiquities, bookbinding, and craft. Cooking, especially baking pastries, has been The nuns of the Rosal de Pontevedra prepare one of those activities. Orange Blossom gelatins, flavored beers and melon marmalades. “We asked for more and The two religious orders that have specialized they told us that the season for melons was over. more that others in this type of labor have been We suggested that they buy more melons, but the Clarists and Benedictines. They have been they responded that they can only make their two communities that, as opposed to other

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 19 Heavenly Delights in Barcelona (continued) cloisters, have combined prayer and work. In places notes “el tronchón”, a cheese made from terms of regions of Spain with strong cooking goat and sheep milk, originating in Tronchón traditions, Conxita highlights Extremadura and (Teruel). Although it is not currently a specialty Andalucia. “In Catalonia, on the other hand,” she of a particular monastery, it is the cheese with comments, “they have dedicated themselves to the oldest literary reference. , it appearing in Don more to bookbinding and washing and ironing Quijote de la Mancha from the 17th century. than the culinary arts.” One exception to this general rule are the Adoratrices Perpetuas del Drink Santismo Sacramento de Berga (Solsona diocese), specialists in high quality chocolates –chocolate Monastic cuisine dictates our contemporary taste bars, truffles, bonbons, Aragones fruits, chocolate for fine beverages as well as foods. One cannot turron (an almond type marzipan) and forget the extraordinary transcendence of drinks processing honey. Moreover, Sor Elena, nun in like beer, champagne, liquors and elixirs. Beer a Benedictine hermitage, in Coaner (near Suria, arrived in Europe from Egypt, and centered its in the Solsona diocese), makes glazed onions, production in monasteries during the middle-ages. Driven by the beverages growing consumption during the 17th and 18th centuries, brewers began to appear everywhere. Today beer is the drink consumed most frequently.

Regarding champagne, it should be noted that the French Benedictine Pierre Pérignon (1638- 1715), was director of the Hautvillers Abbey in the Champagne region of France. Pierre Pérignon invented the process of adding the exact amount of sugar to wine to ensure that the fermentation process remains the same. A century later, this technique made the invention of champagne possible

Purchases

Unlike the divinely inspired and transcendental olive bits, olive paté and on a sweeter note, gastronomic indulgences for sale at Caelum, preserves. prepared by devotees firmly grounded on this earth but with hearts and souls transported In spite of the fact that the starring products in heavenward, Gemma and Conxita have not Caelum are traditional Santa Teresa yolks, truffles yet ventured into cyberspace, do not have a from Valladolid, marzipans, and wafer cookies, website, and therefore can only be contacted they don’t only live on confections in monasteries. by telephone (from the U.S.: 011 34 93 302 “There is the false myth that everything made in a 69 93) or in person at the Caelum located at convent is sweet, and it’s not that way”, comments Calle de la Palla 8, Barcelona. Caelum ships the proprietor of Caelum. The Cisterciense worldwide…and beyond. TCP Monastery of Casbas (Huesca) has, and bell peppers, and a special talent for cheeses. Conxita

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 20 The Cooking Project Magazine

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The Tango Reporter -music, culture, and history

For anyone bitten by the Argentine bug, whether it be of the culinary, literary, or musical species, Tango Reporter, a monthly magazine published in Los Angeles, is a rich resource of cultural insight and analysis viewed through the prism of Argentina’s musical gift to the world -the tango. Written in Spanish, Tango Reporter is a cornucopia of priceless current and historical information about the tango, its inspiration, musicians, dancers, and the genre’s presence in society and politics in Argentina and neighboring countries. From articles on Carlos Gardel, the bandoneon, tango landmarks in Buenos Aires, reviews of recent concerts, album releases, and dance expositions, to Argentine grocery stores and restaurants in the U.S., all of it is on Tango Reporter’s beat.

Of special interest for the tango aficionado in the house is Editor Carlos G. Groppa’s recently published The Tango in the United States in English (amazon.com) which brings to life the tango, it’s history and trajectory, in North America. Check out the Tango Reporter at tangoreporter.com and experience Argentina at its heart.

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 21 Walnut - The Rising Star of Oils

alnut oil, a delicious and healthy ingre- excellent quality and flavor. A blend of the most dient, should be added to your culi- recently harvested walnuts from these historic nary repertoire. It is the star of nut ranches results in a premium walnut oil which is oils and the most widely used. Sev- probably unmatched worldwide, both in terms of Weral brands are now being produced in Califor- flavor and aroma. It is perhaps not by coincidence, nia that rival the traditional, French produced that this same growing area is the renowned Santa walnut oil. The Cooking Project had only to Rita Hills wine appellation, home of Pinot Noir and look as far as our local Farmer’s Market in Ojai other fine wines with uniquely intense aromatic to find La Nogalera. La Nogalera produces a flavors likely resulting from similar favorable soil, rich-tasting, roasted, organic walnut oil in the climate and management factors. French tradition. Starting in 2006, José La Nogalera Baer, the manager La Nogalera Walnut Oil is the product of the of Rancho La Viña, combined efforts of three walnut growers in Santa selected walnuts from Barbara County. La Nogalera Walnut Oil derives each of the ranches its name from the Spanish nogal, which means based on quality and walnut tree. Nogalera is a place where walnut flavor. The resulting trees are grown. equal parts blend of The three ranches walnuts results in a have a heritage from tastefully amazing oil. the days of the old Spanish Land Grants La Nogalera walnut and the walnut oil is made only from orchards are some of premium coastal the last remaining in walnuts. There are now this cool Central Coast over one hundred area of California. different varieties of walnuts recognized The orchards are worldwide. Many of those developed recently located along the dominate the walnut market due to their large Santa Ynez River size, lighter shell color and higher orchard yields. between Buellton Just as with , tomatoes and many and Lompoc. Hibbits other agricultural products today, flavor and Ranch is located on aroma have taken a back-seat to appearance and the west about twelve size. By contrast, the walnuts used in La Nogalera miles from the Pacific Walnut Oil come from older heritage varieties Ocean, La Nogalera is such as Concord, Placentia, Payne, and Lompoc. about fourteen miles The Lompoc variety was developed by Gene Serr, upstream, and Rancho Pomologist at UC Davis, on Hibbits Ranch about La Viña is approximately half-way between the fifty years ago. The other mentioned varieties other two. in this walnut oil date back nearly 100 years. All are flavor-packed in comparison to many of the Each ranch utilizes the natural assets of deep newer walnut varieties. fertile soils, cool coastal fog climates, as well as conservative, environmentally sound The oil is made in California but in a traditional management practices to produce walnuts of French manner, roasting the nut before pressing

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 22 Walnut - The Rising Star of Oils (continued) to enhance the flavor. The purity of the process properties; malic acid having antiseptic and produces a taste just as special as the highest antioxidant effects; and ellagic acid, which is a quality of cold pressed extra-virgin olive oil. cancer-protective antioxidant with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and antiseptic Give Your Taste Buds a Treat properties. The cook’s canvas is taste. The delicate, toasted •Cold-pressed walnut oil retains more nutritional nutty walnut oil offers a palate of flavor and aroma value than heat-processed oils and is high in that will enhance a variety of culinary delights. vitamin E, which helps balance hormones in both •The rich, nutty flavor is wonderful on salads, men and women. particularly when you combine it with bits of walnuts. Try it over fresh spinach with feta cheese This oil is amazingly versatile and can be used in or over a chicken or turkey along with grapes a variety of ways from salads to baking. The only and chopped walnuts. Walnut oil mixes very well rule is not to heat it to a high temperature. When with balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar to create simple but flavorful vinaigrette. •Drizzle walnut oil over steamed . •Brush walnut oil on fish, poultry before . •Walnut oil is fantastic tossed through pasta and fresh herbs. •Try using walnut oil when baking cakes or muffins to add a wonderful nutty flavor. •Great for dipping bread, either alone or combined with balsamic vinegar and a bit of salt. •Add walnut oil to boiled new potatoes with salt and parsley. •Some say it is a wonderful topping to and chocolate cake or brownies! The sky’s the limit - experiment! using walnut oil for cooking, it is best kept at a medium to low termperature, under 400 degrees Walnut Oil a Healthy Choice Farenheit. •Walnut oil contains no cholesterol and tends to reduce or stabilize the body's natural cholesterol A can of oil can stay on the shelf unopened in a levels. This helps reduce the natural process of cool place for about 10 months. Once opened, it harmful deposits in blood vessels such as the should be refrigerated or kept in a cool place, out heart's coronary arteries which in turn likely of light, and used within 6 months. reduces the risk of heart attack with dietary use. How to Purchase •Walnuts and walnut oil are an excellent source You can purchase La Nogalera walnut oil on-line of both omega-3 and omega-6 unsaturated fats. at www.lanogalerawalnutoil.com or purchase it •Walnut oil is a good source of alpha-linolenic acid, locally in many locations in and around Santa an essential fatty acid said to boost the immune Barbara including Lazy Acres Market, C’est system and have anti-inflammatory actions. Cheese and Pierre La Fond. You can also find it •Walnut oil contains several other types of at the Farmers Markets in Ojai, Santa Barbara beneficial acids: gallic acid, having antioxidant, and Santa Monica. TCP anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiseptic

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 23 Recipes

Potato Salad with Walnuts

2 Tbsp. walnut pieces 2 lbs. new potatoes, such as Jersey Royals or Charlotte 1 Tbsp. tarragon or vinegar washed or scrubbed 2 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp chopped fresh tarragon leaves 4 Tbsp. walnut oil 1 large shallot, finely chopped 1 tsp honey 2 Tbsp chopped cornichons or gherkins (optional) flaked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper walnuts on a baking sheeting at about 400†F for a few minutes, until beginning to color slightly.

Place vinegar, mustard, oil, honey, and salt and pepper in a screw-top jar or in the bowl of a small hand blender. Shake or blend well until creamy. Add more salt or pepper to taste.

Cook the potatoes in boiling, salted water for about 15-20 minutes until just tender. Drain well. When cool enough to handle, cut into halves or quarters. Place potatoes in a mixing bowl with the tarragon, shallots, cornichons or gherkins, and walnuts and toss with dressing to taste. Serve just warm or refrigerate and return to room temperature before eating

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 24 Recipes

Walnut, Watercress, and Roquefort Salad

Carmelized Walnuts: 1/4 cup walnuts /4 tsp. salt 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. walnut oil

In baking pan toast nuts in oven until golden and fragrant, about 10 minutes. In a small nonstick skillet stir together walnuts, sugar, salt, and walnut oil, then cook over moderate heat, stirring, until sugar carmelizes and coats nuts. Transfer mixture to a bowl and cool. Break walnuts apart once cooled.

Dressing: 1 small clove garlic 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/4 tsp. salt 3 Tbsp. walnut oil 1-1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard 1/2 tsp. fresh tarragon, finely chopped, or pinch salt and pepper dried tarragon

Mince garlic, then mash to a paste with salt in a bowl. Whisk in mustard and lemon juice. Add oil to mustard mixture in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified. Whisk in tarragon, then add salt and pepper to taste.

Salad: 1 head Belgian endive 2 bunches watercress (about 6 cups packed) 2 ounces Roquefort, crumbled (about 1/2 cup)

Trim endive and cut into julienne strips. Discard coarse stems from watercress and toss with endive and dressing. Top salad with Roquefort and carmelized walnuts

Roasted Rosemary Potatoes Serves 4-6 2 lbs. baby new potatoes (gold/red) 2 Tbsp. coarse sea salt 1/2 cup walnut oil 2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary Preheat oven to 375† F. Cut potatoes into thick wedges. Toss in a bowl with remaining ingredients to thoroughly coat. Spread out evenly on a sheet and bake for 20-30 minutes, turning occasionally, until crisp and golden. Goat Cheese Marinated in Walnut Oil

1/2 lb. goat cheese, sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1/2 cup walnut oil 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon or lime peel 3 Tbsp. fresh herb medley, such as rosemary, sea salt and fresh ground pepper tarragon, parsley or chives Place cheese slices in a single layer in a shallow glass dish. Blend together remaining ingredients and pour over cheese. Allow the mixture to marinate at least 4 hours and up to one day. Serve with toasted French bread slices and top with chopped fresh tomatoes The Cooking Project Magazine™ 25 Recipes

Clericó

A traditional chilled Argentine punch, clericó, made with seasonal fruit and white wine is a wonderfully refreshing beverage served with during the warmer months or just sipped to slake the thirst. Clericó, often and erroneously attributed to Spanish sangría, is a genuine native of the cono sur and a staple at the family table, in cafés, and at fiestas in Argentina.

In Argentina it is common for the waiter or bartender to prepare clericó en la mesa, but if you have the luxury of time prepare yours couple of hours early and let it reposar in the refrigerator. The longer clericó rests the better it tastes.

Served in a clear glass pitcher, a properly prepared clericó screams ¡Sed, fuera! and is as irresistible as the sight of an oasis on the rain-starved pampa.

Ingredients: (Serves four to six)

White wine, dry  bottle Champagne, dry  bottle Sugar ¼ cup to start then add to taste. Peach  Banana  Orange  Kiwi 2 Melon (cantaloupe and/or honeydew) ½ cup Mango ½ cup Pear ½ cup Strawberries ½ cup Grapes (seedless) ½ cup

The quantity of fruit should total 1 lb. to 1 ½ lbs. It is recommended to not use more than one banana due to its strong flavor that will mask the other fruits.

To ensure that the clericó is clear and not turbid when finished, choose fruit that is on the firm side of ripeness. Over ripe, mushy fruit will break down and compromise the presentation of the clericó, although it would surely be drunk with the same abandon.

Like any recipe, there are variations according to personal taste, local and family tradition, and the availability of fresh ingredients. Other fruits that find their way into a pitcher of clericó include apples, cherries, citrus, apricots, and pineapple. Additional reinforcement, such as white rum, , vodka, calvados, Cointreau, Grand Marnier, or any combination thereof, can be enlisted. Often soda water is added to an exclusively wine version for carbonation.

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 26 Recipes

Clericó Continued

The Steps:

Peel the kiwi, melon, pear, orange, and mango, and remove all seeds.

Slice the peach, banana, strawberries, orange, and kiwi into thin, ¼”-thick, rounds. Dice the melon, mango, and pear to the size of grapes. Split the grapes (remove seeds if not seedless) in half.

Put all the fruit into the pitcher, stir in the sugar, and let set for at least 1 hour.

Add the wine and champagne and stir gently with a wooden spoon. Place the pitcher in the refrigerator to chill.

To Serve:

Stir gently with a wooden cucharón, ladle some fruit into each glass, and then top off with clericó. If you insist, add an ice-cube or two.

As the pitcher runs low, add more wine, champagne, sugar, and fruit to replenish. Remember to stir gently to avoid breaking up the fruit.

The Cooking Project™, with over 20 years experience, vouches for the simple recipe presented here. Not only does it guarantee a delightful clericó with a flair, it offers a solid point of departure for the adventurous dama o caballero inclined to express their creativity in a liquid medium.

Be warned: the first glass of clericó can go down quickly, the second even quicker, and the third and fourth right behind them. If that occurs the best response is to forget going anywhere, enjoy the food and conversation, and remember if you observe the first two rules you will be allowed to share un buen vaso de clericó with your friends again at a later date.

Glossary sangría- Spanish red wine punch with fruit and cinnamon cono sur- The southern sector of the South American continent occupied by Argentine, Chile, and Uruguay en la mesa- at the table reposar- to rest ¡Sed, fuera! Thirst, be gone! pampa- the plain cucharón- serving spoon or ladle dama o caballero- lady or gentleman

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 27 Recipes

Country Bread with Herbs Pan de Campo con Hierbas

Ingredients: Los Ingredientes:

The Starter: La Esponja: Bakers yeast 3.5 tablespoos (50 gr.) Levadura 50 gr. Water 100 cc. Agua 00 cc Sugar one tablespoon Azúcar una cucharada Flour two tablespoons Harina dos cucharadas

The : El Amasijo: Flour 0000 grind 1 kilo Harina 0000 1 kilo Salt 2 teaspoons Sal 9 gr. Oil 100 cc Aceite 00 cc Water 600 cc Agua 600 cc Aromatic herbs: thyme, rosemary, and Hierbas aromáticas: tomillo, romero, y oregano orégano

The Steps: El Procedimiento: -Prepare the starter by mixing together all of - Primero preparar la esponja uniendo todos the ingredients and then set it aside to rest. los ingredientes y dejar descansar. -Form a ring with the flour on the board. - Sobre la mesada colocar la harina Add the salt around the outside of the ring formando una corona. Por fuera agregar la and pour the oil, sal y por dentro el aceite, el agua restante y water, and starter la esponja. Amasar y dejar descansar por 30 into the center. minutos. Luego volver a amasar e incorporar Knead it all together las hierbas. and then let it sit for - Dejar leudar hasta que duplique su 30 minutes. tamaño. -Later knead the - Cocinar a 180º por 30 minutos dough adding in the aproximadamente o hasta que la base del herbs. pan esté dorada. -Set the dough aside and let it rise until it doubles in size. * Preparación del pan para la bruschetta. -Bake at 180º for approximately 30 minutes Cortar rodajas de aproximadamente 1 cm., or until the bottom of the loaf is golden. colocar en una placa y rociar con aceite. Llevar a un horno fuerte 5 minutos Prepare the bread to make the Bruschetta: aproximadamente o hasta que esté apenas -Cut the bread in rounds about 1 inch. dorado. thick, arrange them on a baking sheet, and Al salir del horno podemos frotar el pan con moisten with oil. un ajo para darle más sabor -Put them in a hot oven for about 5 minutes or until they’re just about to turn gold. -When removed from the oven, you can rub them with garlic cloves to give them more flavor. The Cooking Project Magazine™ 28 Recipes

Brie, Cured Ham, Arugala, and Cherry Queso Brie, Jamó Crudo, Rúcula y Tomato Confit Cherry Confit

The Ingredients: Los Ingredientes: Brie 8 oz Queso brie 200 gr. Cured ham* 8 oz Jamón crudo 200 gr. Arugula 5 oz Rúcula 50 gr. Cherry tomatos  oz Tomates cherry 300 gr. Thyme, fresh sprigs to taste Tomillo, la ramitas frescas a gusto Garlic 3 cloves Ajo 3 dientes Sugar 5 tablespoons Azúcar 25 gr. Black pepper to taste Pimienta a gusto Salt to taste Sal a gusto Olive oil Aceite de oliva

For the Reduction: Para La Reducción: Balsamic vinegar 500 cc Aceto balsámico 500 cc. Soy sauce 500 cc Salsa de Soja 500 cc Honey 500 gr. Miel 500 gr.

The Steps: El Procedimiento: -Toss the arugula with salt, pepper, and olive oil and - Condimentar la rúcula con sal, pimienta y aceite de then set it aside. oliva. Reservar. Tomato confit: Tomates Confitados: -Split the tomatoes and spread them on a cookie -Cortar los tomates al medio, colocarlos sobre la sheet,, sprinkle with sugar, pepper, olive oil and then placa, espolvorearlos con azúcar, pimienta, aceite y add sprigs of thyme. agregar las ramitas de tomillo. -Once that is done, sprinkle with salt. -Una vez listos agregarles la sal. The Reduction: La Reducción: -In a sauce pan, over a medium flame, mix the - Colocar a fuego moderado el aceto balsámico, la balsamic vinegar, soy sauce, and honey. salsa de soja y la miel. -Cook down until the mixture thickens. - Cocinar hasta que la salsa espese. -Let this reduction cool before using. It can be - Dejar enfriar antes de usar. Se puede preparar prepared several days in advance and stored in the con algunos dias de anticipación y mantener en la refrigerator. heladera.

Putting It All Together: Armado Final: -On the bread layer a slice of brie, a rolled slice of Colocar sobre el pan el queso, un rulo de jamón ham, arugula, top with the confit tomatoes, and then crudo, la rúcula, por encima los tomatitos confitados drizzle on the reduction. y finalmente salsear con la reducción.

*Cured ham, known as jamón crudo in Argentina, is • Un comentario sobre el aceto balsámico jamón serrano or jamón del país in Spain and should not be confused with proscuitto. This dry-cured ham is best when sliced tissue thin

The Cooking Project Magazine™ 29