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ALTERATIONS For Good Fit In Men's and Women's Apparel

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Author: Betty Feather, and Specialist Artist: Jeanne Bintzer Missouri Cooperative Extension Service University of Missouri/Lincoln University The author extends a special thank you to Leola Bernard, alteration consultant, and Janet Delcour, regional clothing and textiles specialist for their consultations, guidance and professional assistance in the prepara- tion of this manual. ~ Contents

Good Fit in Men's and Women's Apparel The Fitting Process ...... 1

Judging the Fit of Men's - Jackets - Vests - Shirts ...... 2 Judging the Fit of Women's Skirts - Trousers - Bodices - Jackets ...... 3

Alter to Fit . Fitting the Garment ...... 5. . . . Fittings to Avoid ...... 5 Pinning ...... 6 Order of Alterations ...... 6

Techniques Trousers - Shorten and lengthen ...... ,. 7 - does not fit ...... 8 - Baggy seat ...... 9 - T oo wide in hip ...... 10 - Crotch too tight ...... 10 - replaced ...... 11

Jacket - Too large ...... 12 - ...... 1 2 - Wrinkles adjacent to back ...... 13 - shorten - n o vent ...... 13 - Sleeves lengthen - n o vent ...... 14 - Sleeves shorten - with vent ...... 15 - Too long ...... 17

Dress/Blouse - gaps ...... 1. 8 - B ustline too tight ...... 19 - B ust darts added ...... 20 - S houlder seams too long ...... 21 - Upper too tight ...... 21 - Sleeve too long - with ...... · ...... 23

Skirts/Pants - too tight, loose ...... 24 - Lower back wrinkles ...... 25 - Pant legs too wide ...... 25

Adjusting Length General Guidelines ...... 27 General Techniques ...... 27 Measuring ...... 28 Special Garments / - Beaded garments ...... 29 - Sheer, rolled ...... 29 - Shorten coats with ...... 30 - Lengthen coats with lining ...... 30 Hem and Edge Finishes - Hem finishes ...... 31 - Hemming techniques ...... 31

References ...... 33 Good Fit in Men's and Women's Apparel

Purchasing clothes represents closer the person can come to can walk into a clothing store a sizable financial and time in­ good fit, the better. Try to select and buy a coat, suit or dress that vestment. It's not only important apparel that is proportional to fits perfectly. Often, more expen­ that you obtain the best value for your physique-no amount of al­ sive garments have wider seams your money, but the clothes terations can correct major pur­ and can be made larger if the should fit. Clothes are made to fit chasing blunders. Ready-to-wear client needs more space. Less standard forms but most people apparel lines address some of expensive and moderately priced · don't conform to the standard these needs through petite, half­ garments provide satisfactory ser­ measurements. Either the per­ size and tall fashions for women vice but may be more difficult or son is too tall or short, wide or and regular, long, short and exec­ impossible to release because of narrow, and everything in be­ utive proportions for men. narrow seams. tween varies with the standard. Men vary in size and shape Structural design features can When selecting clothes, the just as women do and few people limit alterations. on men's trousers and pockets on men's and women's jackets can cause problems when decreasing the waistline and shortening the jack­ et length. Alterations may inter­ rupt the symmetry of garments with or tucks. Individual preference for gar­ ment fit varies. Some prefer a smooth, snug fit whereas others want smoothness with more room to move comfortably. Also, indi­ viduals may have figur(;'. irregulari­ ties to conceal or they may prefer additional garment space for com­ fort. When you are deciding on ad­ justments to be made, make sure to consider the accessories, belt, wallet or keys, generally worn with the garment. It does little good to stand straight for a fitting and then resume a slouched posi­ tion when wearing the garment. It is particularly important for women to wear the same under­ garments that will be worn with the adjusted garment. Men, too,

1 need to wear the shirt or jacket • Sport slacks generally have a the back. It should not gap nor· and the keyf, wallets and other shorter rise and can be worn fall away from the neck. Many essential items that will be worn lower on the hip. Adjust the collars do not fit because of with the garment Both men and trousers so they feel comfort­ posture problems. The entire women should wear the same able and there are no visible collar may need to be removed height shoes they plan to wear wrinkles. Wrinkles generally in­ and set deeper into the neck­ 'with the garment, so the hem dicate tension from a body area line if there are wrinkles or length will be correct that does not have enough fab­ bulges. Standards of good fit remain ric to cover it, which results in • The waist area should be the same over time but garment pulling. smooth and form a slight in­ fashions do change. At certain • Pleated trousers should not pull dentation when the jacket is periods, clothing styles fit the open when you are standing. A buttoned. body more closely than at other wider may be necessary to • The lapel should not gap nor times. Within the framework of accommodate the hip when sit­ sag. current fashion, good fit is essen­ ting down. The pleated style • The length of the jacket is crit­ tial for comfort and an attractive may nbt be flattering to heavier ical. It should cover the seat; appearance on the body. individuals. the bottom edge should be even is the difference between • Seat area should be smooth and parallel to the floor. The the individual's body measure­ when standing or seated. Ifthe correct length is determined ment and garment measurement seat is to be taken in, have it by standing with the arms at With sufficient ease, the garment pinned so other areas can be the side, curl up the fingers should feel comfortable without evaluated. and the bottom of the jacket a feeling of fullness or tightness. • Crotch area should not be too should fall into that curl. The outline or silhouette of baggy nor too tight • Jacket sleeve length should be the garment should enhance your • Length of trousers depends approximately 5 inches (12.5 appearance. Slimming silhouette upon the bottom finish. If you cm) from the tip of the thumb. lines can conceal actual body choose cuffs, the depth of the The shirt sleeve should be ½ shape. Structural lines within the cuffs should be similar to the inch ( 1. 25 cm) longer than the garment can also improve the waistband, and they should be jacket sleeve. image. parallel with the ground and Judging the Fit of A restful, unified effect is cre­ just touch the top of the shoe. Men's Vests ated when the garment is proper­ Plain finish trousers should ly balanced. The garment should touch the top of the shoe in • The vest should be buttoned hang equidistant from opposite frontandbe ½"to¾"(l.25-1.9 and fit smoothly while sitting sides of the body in the skirt, cm) longer in the back. or standing. bodice and sleeves. • Break occurs if the trousers • Armholes are large enough for "Set of the garment" on the are fit correctly above the knee comfort but do not gap. body indicates there are no wrin­ and finished correctly at the • The vest should overlap the kles or sags where they do not hem. It is a slight indentation waistband of the trousers. belong. The garment should move midway between the knee and • The vest should have a smooth with the figure as the individual ankle. back, free of wrinkles, without a tendency to ride up. sits, stands or walks. Judging the Fit of The of the fabric is in Men's Jackets Judging the Fit of the alignment The lengthwise Men's Shirts grain should be perpendicular to • Jackets should be fitted with a the floor and the crosswise grain vest if they are to be worn • The shirt collar is the focal should be parallel to the floor. together. point of the well-dressed man. • The jacket must feel good. The There should be sufficient room Judging the Fit of person should be able to move to put the finger between the Men's Trousers freely in it and not notice any neck and inside collar band. If • Suit trousers are cut with a . the finger feels squeezed and higher rise and should be worn • The collar should fit low and collar band looks like it will so the waistline seam rests just close around the neck. expos­ stretch, consider a larger size. above the hip bone. ing ½" ( 1. 25 cm) of collar in • The body of the shirt varies

2 with the style-dress or formal shirts fit more closely than sportshirts. Although western and tapered shirts fit the body fairly close, individual prefer­ ence is more the rule for fit of the shirt body. • The sleeve should come just a fraction below the wristbone and extend ½" ( 1. 25 cm) be­ low the jacket sleeve. • Inexpensive shirts frequently are cut too short. A better shirt has sufficient length so it stays in place during normal activity. • A tie will make the best impres­ sion if it is an appropriate length, coordinating width and well tied. The bottom edge of the necktie should be even with the top of the belt . The width of the tie should be har­ monious with the width of the jacket lapel. For example, nar­ row ties are appropriate with narrow lapel jackets. Judging the Fit of the style of the garment and • Elbow darts or patches should Women's Skirts/Trousers becoming to the individual. coincide with the elbow. El­ • Waistband-The waistband bow darts should be arranged should fall at the natural waist­ Judging the Fit of so they point directly to the line, it should not bind nor roll Women's Bodices elbow. or be so loose it appears to • Neckline or collar should fit • Sleeve length can affect the ap­ stand away from the body. snugly enough that it does not pe1;\rance of the entire garment. • Hip area-The fabric should gap and loosely enough that it Shorter lengths should end be controlled through darts, does not bind. The neckline where they are becoming to gathers, pleats or seams to treatment should not cause the individual. Avoid a length fit the body smoothly. There pulling nor wrinkles at the that adds width to the bust or should not be wrinkles nor ex­ shoulder nor in the body of the hips. Long sleeves should end panded pleats indicating the gar­ bodice. at the wrist bone. ment is too tight. Two or three • The shoulder seam should lie • Body of the bodice should have inches of ease should be al­ directly over the top of the several inches of ease at the lowed through the hip area to shoulder. Usually the shoul­ . Waistline and bustline permit adequate body move­ der seam is not visible from darts should point to the full­ ment and adequate garment the front or back when viewed est part of the bust. drape. at eye level. • Waistline seam of the bodice • Side seams should be perpen­ • For a traditional set-in-sleeve, should fit the person's normal dicular to the floor, and seams the seam should begin at the waistline. Tying a ribbon around should not swing either toward end of the shoulder and gently the waist will identify where the front nor back of the gar­ curve ending one inch below the bodice should fit. ment. the armpit. Wrinkles should • Hem should be parallel to the not radiate from the seam in Judging the Fit of floor and hang evenly. The either the body of the sleeve or Women's Jackets length should be suitable to bodice. • Collar and lapel should fit snug-

3 ly but smoothly and stay in that has been done in the manu­ 6 Sleeve length for long sleeves place with normal movements. facturing process, alterations may should end at the wrist bone. • Shoulder area should allow for not be possible or so expensive, Shorter lengths should end where movement without wrinkles they are not practical. they are most becoming to the forming across the chest or individual. If possible, avoid a back Check These Points length that will seem to add width • If fitted, the jacket should but­ to the bust or hips. 1 ton without any evidence of Neckline should lie at the 7 Waistline should fall at the base strain. of the neck, snugly enough natural waistline. Current fash­ • Sleeve length should be just so it will not gap, loosely enough ion may not have a waistline long enough so the wristbone so it does not bind. No pulls or defined at the natural waistline, wrinkles is not exposed when the arm is should show in the bod­ but slight shaping at this area at the side. ice below or at the sides of the improves the fit and appearance neckline. A • Jackets should be fitted with low neckline should of a garment Whether garments follow the garments with which they the same principle. are joined at the waist or merely 2 Shoulder are to be worn. The length of a seam should lie shaped to follow body contours, directly jacket to be worn with a dress over the top of the should­ they should not bind or be so or skirt will differ from the er. Unless the design in­ loose they look baggy. length of a jacket to be worn tentionally changes the shoulder with trousers. line, it should fall 1 inch ( 2. 5 cm) 8 Bodice should have several inches of ease at the bustline • Length of the jacket should be behind the lobe of the ear. The . The amount in proportion to the wearer's shoulder seam usually is not no­ of ease will depend on height and length of the skirt ticeable from the front or back current fashion, body build, activity and personal or trousers. Normally, jackets when viewed at eye level. Width preference. Waistline and worn with skirts are in better of the shoulder will be dictated bustline darts should point proportion if they are shorter; by the style of the garment and toward the fullest part longer jackets look better with current fashion. of the bust. They should trousers. 3 Armhole seam should be­ stop short of this point. If a clus­ gin at the end of the shoulder ter of darts are used, they should Summary and curve smoothly, both front be balanced in regard to the full The most carefully selected and and back, around to where the part of the bust. coordinated garments will not flat­ arm breaks from the body. The 9 Skirt darts should be direct­ ter the individual unless they fit seam usually ends about 1 inch ed to the full portions of the body. properly. Unfortunately people do (2.5 cm) below the armpit, de­ Hip darts should end above the not come in standard sizes­ pending on the style of the gar­ fullest part of the hip. The num­ therefore the shopper needs to ment No wrinkles or pulls should ber of darts or amount of gathers know what constitutes good fit show in either bodice or sleeve allowed will depend on the round­ in a garment. areas near the armhole seam. ness of the figure through the The guidelines suggested in 4 Sleeves should hang straight hip and abdomen. Allow several this guidesheet are general ones from the shoulder with no pulls inches of ease, depending on the and the shopper should always or extra folds of material. Sleeve current fashion. keep in mind that fabric texture, caps should be smooth and round 10 Side seams should hang weight and color as well as their with no puckers. straight from the lower part of individual body proportions af­ 5 Elbow darts or ease are the armhole seam to the hem. fect the overall appearance. necessary for comfort If there is Side seams usually divide the Before you purchase a garment one , it should point directly body into pleasing back and front that you think may need altera­ to the end of the elbow when the proportions. tions, ask the sales personnel or arm is bent. Two darts should 11 Hem should be parallel to alteration seamstress if the gar­ fall on either side of the elbow. the floor and hang evenly all the ment can be altered to fit you. Three darts should be arranged so way around. The length should There is a limit of type and ex­ the center dart points to the el­ be suitable for the style of gar­ tent of alterations that can be bow. If the sleeve has ease allowed ment and becoming to the indi­ done to garments. Because of or is two-piece, the ease should vidual within the current frame­ the shaping and underpressing fall where the elbow bends. work of fashion.

4 Alter To Fit

Fitting the Garment • All garment openings should as will be worn with the al­ • Garments should always be fit­ be fastened ( the , tered garment if the hem of ted from the right side to in­ buttoned; , zipped; and pants or skirts is to be adjus­ sure accurate fit. For example, other , fastened) be­ ted. people have body variations that fore the garment is evaluated result in one hip or shoulder and pinned. Fittings to Avoid being higher or lower than the • Belts, scarves or ties should be Some types of fittings corresponding hip or shoulder. on as the individual plans to and al­ terations cannot be done suc­ Alterations are more readily wear it. cessfully. They are: identified if the garment is fit­ • The client should wear ap­ • Garments ted as it will be worn. propriate that that are more than would be worn routinely with two sizes too large or one size the garment. Undergarments too small will require recutting will drastically affect the fit of so that the major design lines the garment. will not be displaced. • Adjust the garment neckline and shoulders so they are placed properly. Many individuals wear .... .,,, /I:::: - -, their garments incorrectly and - - / -, I may appreciate knowing how ...... - - I they should be worn. However, \ ' \ \ ' be sure to alter to the prefer­ ' ence of the wearer. ' ...._ .I • The same height of shoes I I should be worn for the fitting I I I I /. I I CJ right side of fabric I I

• Permanent press fabrics retain .. wrong side of fabric the original creases and these cannot be removed nor reset. t ~~~~~~~~~~l right side of lining • Problem fabrics particularly ~/////////;j those with a napped or special finish such as: ~ wrong side of lining l. Velvet, corduroy and suede cloth 2. Satin or moire finish [//f:W,~-:BZ:I 3. , vinyl or plastic finish 4. Sequin or bead

5 • Soiled or spotted garments. before adjusting the waistline, • Avoid basting when pinning will Pressing required during alter­ hips or hem. do the job. Avoid pinning if ations will force the soil into pressing will be effective. the garment. Suggest cleaning The goal in alterations is to • When changing only part of a the garment prior to alterations retain the original garment lines. seam, always overstitch the and releasing the hem if it is to Alterations are different from con­ original seam at the beginning be altered. structing a new garment. With and end. That procedure will alterations you are starting with prevent a gap when the origi­ Pinning a finished product and working nal line is removed. Pinning is used as a guide for backwards. There is an advan­ • Use 8-10 stitches to the inch the amount the garment is to be tage, because you can observe for most machine stitching. taken in or released. Generally, how it was originally put together. Larger stitches are easier to are placed where the gar­ Ifyou choose, you can repeat the remove and take less time to ment is to be adjusted. Pins are procedure or can re-assemble it remove than shorter stitches. used also to position the gar­ by your own method. Different Use shorter stitches (12-15) ment for hard to adjust areas skills are needed for alterations. for narrow seams or places that such as the inseam, crotch, sway If it works and is time efficient, have been clipped or slashed back or short bodice front. then use it. close to the seamline. • vertical seams, such as • Stitch new seamlines before • Stitch the garment from the side seams or sleeves, with the ripping out the original seams top toward the bottom; this points toward the hem. whether taking in or releasing procedure makes it easier to seams. The original seam will follow body contours. hold the garment in place while • When possible, work inside the you restitch, which avoids puck­ circles of a garment section. ers and provides a stitching Armholes, sleeves, waistlines, guide. pant legs and hems are all a series of circles. When you :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::\::::: .. stitch around these circles, keep the open part of the circle ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::.;;:::::::::.:-:-:--:-: above the part you are stitch­ ing rather than underneath. The work is easier to guide and there will be less danger of getting the underneath part caught in the stitches.

• Pin shoulder seams with the points toward the shoulder not toward the neckline. • Pins may not stay in position • When taking seams in, leave a in sheer or silky fabrics. Cut a more generous strip of tissue paper and pin than the original ½-% inches through the tissue and fabric. (1.25 to 1.5 cm). • Stitch new seams outside of the fitting line so the final fit of Order of Alteration the garment is not tighter than • One alteration may affect anT planned. other alteration and the order in • Mark the new seamline on one which alterations are made is side of the seam, preferably the very important. The rule is to side that will be stitched. start at the top of the garment • Place pins at right angles to and work progressively down the new seamline, then the to the hem. Start with the seams will not shift as you neckline, then the shoulders stitch.

6 Techniques

• When shortening the hem, ap­ ply the new finish lace or tape along the top of the new hem allowance before cutting away the excess fabric. This tech­ nique provides better control and a straighter hem allowance.

is stitched, it is stitched with 4 strands of . Run the thread from one button to the next ( when they are placed close together), avoiding re­ knotting and cutting the thread. • Organize your tasks so that you can do similar operations • Avoid hand work as much as at one time. There is time and possible. Use machine stitch­ energy saved by doing similar in-the-ditch for inside control tasks such as measuring, stitch­ of facings, linings or waist­ ing, ripping and pressing at bands. Use blind hemmers and one time. attachments for quick · Trousers professional results...... ---- - • If taking in a dart, there is no The problem: Trousers need to (2) reason to rip out the old dart, be shortened or lengthened. unless the old dart will be visi­ The solution: To shorten trous­ ble from the outside. If the ers, make them shorter in the new dart needs to be released front than back or add a to later, the original dart remains. lengthen them. If the fabric is sheer or excep­ 1. Release the hem and press tionally heavy, stitch the new out the crease. line before ripping out the origi­ 2. Try on the trousers and mark nal stitching. the desired length on one leg • To save time when hand sew­ using pins at the back and ing , thread the needle front crease. Usually the back with a double strand of thread, is ¼ inch (0.6 cm) longer double it and every time the than the front.

7 3. Unless the person has one 8. Press facing to inside of pant leg shorter than the other leg, leg. Hern by hand with a catch measure only one leg. stitch. (Refer to section on 4. Place the pants on a flat sur­ Adjusting Hern Lengths.) face, match all four seams Trousers and creases. Draw the hem E--1 The problem: Waistline does not T allowance 1 ½ -2 inches (3. 75- I 5 cm) below the pins. Cut off fit. The alteration is generally excess fabric. easier if the waistband is too loose. For that are too tight, the possible alteration depends upon adequate seam al­ lowance to be released and ex­ tending the waistband. (1) (2.5 cm) on each seam may require the pockets or darts be moved if possible. The pockets should be no closer than 2 inches ( 5 cm) on each side of the center back seam after the alterations are com­ pleted.

l- ~ ------>-I .l" C: (4)

5. Finish raw edges using a zig­ zag or overedge stitch. Press hem up along the pinned marks. 6. Machine blindstitch in place or hem by hand; press. 7. To lengthen, pin and stitch hem tape on the raw edge of (1) the lower trouser edge. 2. Tum the trousers inside out and chalk the pin marks. 3. In men's trousers, the pants and waistband are sewn in one continuous seam, there­ fore, the waistband does not need to be ripped from the trousers. The solution: 1. Try the trousers on right side out, pin the amount to be taken in or amount that can be released (let out). Take special notice of back pockets or darts in the taking in process. Taking the back (7) seam in more than 1 inch

8 4. In women's trousers, the Trousers lift the trousers in the crotch waistline seam is usually sewn The problem: The seat of the area. after the center back seam trousers is too baggy. 2. Turn the trousers inside out. is stitched. Open the waist­ Chalk the pin marks and mea­ line seam almost to the side sure between them to deter­ seams. mine the amount to be re­ 5. If the trousers have a front, moved from the crotch area. make a new seam at the cen­ ter back of the waistband. Make sure the center back seam of the trousers and waistband match when the band is stitched to the trou­ I} sers.

(2) 3. Rip the inseam because the fullness comes from only the back part of the inseam.

6. For trousers with a side zip­ per the waistband can be moved toward the placket, providing it is concealed by the front waistband.

The solutions: Take in the back 4. The amount to be removed inseam seam allowance, if the has been determined but the leg is full, provide a greater taper. amount of taper on the in­ 1. Try on the trousers right side seam will be determined by out Pin a tuck crosswise to the fullness in the trouser leg. Ifthe trouser leg fits well, the taper will be shorter. If the trouser leg is too full, extend the taper towards the c:::--1 knee. For exceptionally wide trouser legs, see the next alteration. 7. If the waistband seam was 5. Once the amount to be re­ opened, pin in place and stitch moved and taper has been from the waistband side along determined only the back the original seamline. seam allowance should be 8. Stitch-in-the-ditch to fasten taken. The front inseam al­ the back waistband seam al­ (1) lowance should remain the lowance. Press. same.

9 Trousers 3. Blend all markings into Trousers smooth curves. The problem: Trouser legs are The problem: Crotch seam is too wide through the hip area. too tight, this causes wrinkles in The solutions: Decrease the low­ the trousers while person is stand­ er center back seam and inseam. ing. Caution! The back trouser leg should never be narrower than the front trouser leg. Take some fullness out of the front leg rath­ er than too much from the back I \ trouser leg. 1. Try the trousers on right side out; pin vertical tucks through the hip area and upper thigh area. 2. Turn the trousers wrong side out, chalk the pin marks. Measure the amount in the

tuck and take that amount (3) from each back and inseam. Rip original inseam 4 inches ( 10 cm) past the last marking. 4 . Stitch center back seam on new line. 5. Shift the back seam allow­ ance forward until the new seam allowance coincides with the original front inseam. Stitch, blending into original seam lines at ends.

The solution: Increase the rise if possible but there is usually very little seam allowance to use this technique. Another approach is to insert a . The amount of ease that can be provided by a (2) gusset is usually in a width range of 1 ½ -3 inches ( 3. 75-7. 5 cm). l. Turn the trousers inside out and open the center front, center back and two side (5) · seams approximately 3 inch- es (7.5 cm) on each seam.

6. Trim the seam allowance to the same width as original seam. Overcast edges togeth­ er and press to one side. 10 4. Pin one comer of the triangle new zipper to the right fly, in (gusset) to the center front the same place as the old seam, pin the other comer of one. Insert the zipper in the the gusset to the center back waistband and stitch. seam. Pin gusset into side 3. Place the left side of the zip­ seams evenly, so there are no per in the original stitchline puckers. on the left fly facing and stitch.

0 2. Fabric for the can come from scraps cut from previously shortening the trousers. Otherwise try to match fabric as close as pos­ sible. As this area is not easi­ ly seen an exact match is not essential. 5. All three seams, each gusset seam and the original leg seam must meet if the gusset is to lie flat with no bulge. Repeat on the other leg. 6. Press, tum right side out

4. Restitch the top of the fly at Trousers the waist The problem: Zipper needs to 5. Tum the trousers right side 3. Cut double triangles of match­ be replaced. out with the zipper open. Tum ing fabric the width needed The solutions: Replace the zip­ fly area to original position between the center front and per by machine or hand. and top stitch. Be sure that center back and the length to 1. Rip the old zipper from both you follow the original stitch­ ease them i~. sides of the fly. Rip just ing line. enough at the top of each fly to allow you to remove the old zipper. Rip out the top stitching on the left fly, and release left fly facing. 2. Use a zipper foot so you can stitch close to the zipper. Stitch the right side of the RIGHT LEFT SIDE SIDE 0 ' RIGHT: SIDE (5)

6. Replace the tacking at the end .6f the fly. 7. An alternate hand stitch meth­ od eliminates removing the original top stitching on the left fly. Follow step 1 except for releasing the left fly front.

11 Do step ,2. Rather than step The solution: 3, hand sew with a back stitch 1. To make the jacket lay flat the left side of the zipper to against the chest, pinch the the left inside facing. Repeat amo_unt needed under the step 4 and 6. Ehminate step collat. 5.

Jacket The problem: Jacket is too large through the body. When the jack­ et is buttoned there should be some ease. Two sizes is the most a jacket can be taken in. 4. Chalk the inside seams as The solution they were pinned in fitting. A 1. Try the jacket on, over the french curve may be useful to garment it is to be worn with. draw accurate ·curved lines. Button the jacket Stitch new seams before rip­ 2. Pin the amount needed to ping original seams. adjust the fit of the jacket 5. If the lower edge of the jacket needs to be reduced, the hem 0 will need to be released and the seam extended through I ,-,I the . 11 6. If the jacket is fitted and I 11 is taken in more than 1 inch, (1) 1, (2. 5 cm) make identical 1' 2. Pin, chalk, and measure the • changes in garment lining . ,, 7. Rip out original stitching and amount to be removed from 11 the front shoulder area. I press the seams open. 8. Tum garment inside out and 3. If the jacket is lined and at­ ' t ' tached at the hem, rip the lo .~ repress . I ''I I sleeve lining at midseam and :1 ~ I Jacket pull the jacket through. The problem: The front jacket lapel stands away from the chest, it should lay against the chest

(2) 3. Open the sleeve lining in one sleeve midway between the wrist and the elbow. Tum the jacket inside out through the sleeve lining.

12 4. The maximum amount that 2. The most that should be re­ should be removed is approxi­ moved is 1 inch (2.5 cm) for mately 1 inch (2.5 cm). women's jackets, 1 ½ inches 5. Rip open the shoulder seam (3. 75 cm) for men's jackets; area and collar. chalk the pinned tuck and measure the distance between the pins. I lf)_ _, )

(2)

3. Rip the center back collar 6. Raise the front shoulder seam 2 inches (5 cm) past the the amount to be removed shoulder seam (into the jack­ from the front Taper the front et front). shoulder to nothing; stitch to the original back seam allow­ ance. 7. Lower the collar at the center The solution back to compensate for the 1. Pinch the extra fabric into a amount removed from the crosswise tuck at the center front shoulder seam. back seam to determine the / amount of fabric to be re­ ------~ /jj___ _ moved. Pin.

(/j~J" .¼ & ---- 4. Rip open the shoulder seam FRONT ~ 0~ in the jacket and hning for about 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm). ~ r------~~ ~~ #&~--­ ~ ~ FRONT O COLLAR

ORIGINAL BACK NECK SEAM NEW BACK NECK SEAM 8. Stitch collar to the jacket back; adjust hning if necessary. 9. Press and turn jacket right side out ORIGINAL BACK NECK SEAM NEW BACK NECK SEAM Jacket 5. Measure down the amount to The problem: Wrinkles show be aftered in the center back across the back shoulders direct­ and gradually taper to each ly underneath the collar. edge. Jacket The problem: How to shorten a jacket sleeve without a vent.

13 The solution 4. Tum the jacket sleeve in­ 6. Add new interfacing to the 1. Try on the jacket to deter­ side out. Open the lining jacket sleeve, if the interfac­ mine if the sleeves need to seam midway between the ing has been trimmed away be altered. wrist and the elbow. Pull use the old interfacing to cut the new interfacing.

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the jacket sleeve through the opening in the lining. Leave the lining attached at the 2. Take a tuck to raise the hem for shortening. (6) 5. On the inside, measure the sleeves to the desired length. 7. Tuck the sleeve back through amount to be shortened from Chalk the pins and measure the opening in the lining. the stitching line of the jack­ the amount to be removed 8. Tum the jacket sleeve right et sleeve and lining fabrics; from the sleeve. side out and press along the mark with chalk. Machine­ marked hemline. stitch along the marked line 9. To hold the hem in place, and trim. stitch-in-the-ditch at the sleeve seams. 10. Replace the buttons using the other sleeve as a guide for placement. 11. Repeat this procedure for the other sleeve.

The problem: How to lengthen a jacket sleeve without a vent. The solution 1. Try on the jacket and deter­ mine the amount to lengthen the sleeves. The new length (2) will be taken from the sleeve hem so the alteration can be 3. Remove the buttons on one no longer than the hem depth. sleeve only. (6) Mark the new length on the

14 sleeve hem. Repeat steps 3 For example, if you are length­ and 4. ening the jacket sleeve ½ inch ( 1. 3 cm), you will need 1 inch (2. 5 cm) to accommodate the new ½ inch ( 1. 3 cm) length in the jacket sleeve fabric and ½ inch ( 1. 3 cm) in the lining fabric plus two ½ inch ( 1. 3 cm) seam allowances for a ( 1 + ½ + ½) total measure­ ment of 2 inches ( 5 cm). 4. Insert the fabric strip into the sleeve lining to accommodate the added length in the jacket sleeve. Press seams open. Re­ peat steps 6, 7, 8, and 9 in "Shortening a sleeve without a vent."

(4) 5. To remove the original hem crease, apply diluted white \I -z." ///// ///// vinegar and press. (Be sure ///// ///// to test first where it will not ///// ///// show.) / //// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// The problem: How to shorten a ///// ///// jacket sleeve with a vent. ///// ///// / //// ///// The solution ///// ///// 1. To shorten a sleeve with a ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// //// / ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// ///// /

(1)

2. Cut across the lining 2-3 inch­ ...... es (5-7.5 cm) below the el­ ...... 0 ...... bow; press out the hem crease ...... in the jacket and ...... 0 lining...... 3. Cut a piece on the straight of ...... ' ...... (3) - ...... -- fabric, the width to be length­ (1) ened plus seam allowance.

15 vent is more time consum­ 8. Mark the amount to be short­ 10. Move or add new interfac­ ing and limiting than with­ ened. ing to the new seam of the out a vent. sleeve hem...... 2. Try on the jacket and deter­ .. . . ' ...... ' ...... mine the amount to shorten ...... the sleeves. Mark the new ...... ' ...... ' ...... length on the outside of the ...... ' ...... sleeve...... 3. Remove the buttons on one ...... sleeve only...... 4. Determine if the vent can be ...... ' ...... shortened. If the vent has ...... been cut out or mitered and ...... trimmed, eliminate the vent ...... by stitching it closed. Then, ...... follow the technique for ...... shortening a sleeve without ...... ' ...... a vent. If the vent has not ...... been cut or mitered, contin­ :_:-:-:-: ::0::::-:::0 :0 :::0:: ~:::~: :: ...... ue with step 5. 5. Open the vent seam and press out creases in jacket and lining fabrics. 6. Turn the jacket sleeve in­ (8) side out and open the lining (10) seam midway between the 11. Pull the sleeve lining into wrist and the elbow. Pull the sleeve. Note the shape the jacket sleeve through the 9. Stitch the new seamline and of the vent. opening in the lining. trim off excess fabric. The ...... 7. Leave the lining attached to ...... the hem for shortening......

(9) (10)

corners that form the vent 12. Fold the corners that form are shortened the same the vent and stitch those amount that the seam is. the same amount as was 16 used to shorten the sleeve. 14. Tum the sleeve right side tocks. Make a paper pattern There will be a short area out Hand hem lining to coat of the curve of the frontjack­ where the vent and lin­ in the vent area. et curve. ing fabric is not machine stitched, this will be done later by hand.

NEW EDGE OF SLEEVE l""'F~-....~

:::::\:::::::::...... :::::::::::::...... :::: PAPER ::: : : : ~ ::::::::: :::::::::::::::::: PATTERN .·: :::::: i: ::::::::::: ::::::::::::::: .-:::::::::: :i::::i: :::::):i:i/):~::/: (1) (14) 2. Remove the top stitching on the curved edge of the jacket 15. To hold hem in place, stitch­ 3. Tum the jacket inside out. in-the-ditch at the sleeve Press the hem and facing seams. seams flat. 16. As the vent has been short­ 4. Lay pattern for new curve ened, it may give a better even with the new hemline. proportion to use fewer but­ tons in the vent. Give a final press.

13. Replace the interfacing. Stitch it to the new seam PAPER allowance or the new sleeve PATTERN seam.

(4)

0 The front edge of the pat­ -- tern should lay along the (16) front seam of the jacket. 5. Draw new curve around the Jacket edge of the pattern for your new stitching line on both The problem: Jacket is too long. jacket front sections. The solution: Shorten the jacket, 6. Stitch along marking. Check providing the new hemline does to be sure both fronts are not interfere with the pockets. stitched to exactly the same Some pockets can be raised or length. removed. The most difficult part 7. Starting ½ inch ( 1. 25 cm) is retaining the original curved from the inside edge of the front edge. facing, trim seam to ¼ inch 1. Try on the jacket and mark (0.6 cm). the new length. The jacket 8. Tum right side out, smooth (13) length should cover the but- all layers, and press facing

17 seam carefully on the facing 1. Try on the garment, right side. side out, and pin the amount 9. For jackets with a back vent, of fullness to be removed. the lining will need to be repositioned along the verti­ cal seams and hand stitched in place. 10. Trim excess fabric, retain­ ing the same hem depth as the original one. 11. Replace the hem with a 's stitch. 12. Slip-stitch lining back in (3) place. 4. Mark the bodice front and facing so the same amount Dress/blouse will be removed from both. Stitch the shoulder bodice The problem: The neckline gaps seam and facing at the same in front or back. 2. Remove any facings or col­ time. Taper the seam so it lar at the shoulder seams. coincides with the original Facings or collars will need shoulder seam. to be taken in the same amount as the bodice front. (4) A collar might be eased in without making it small­ er; this depends upon the amount to be removed from the neckline. 3. Chalk and measure the amount of fullness to be removed. As the fullness is 5. Press both seams and re­ place facings or collar. 6. If the neckline gaps only in the bodice back ( 4 ), repeat steps 1 and 2. --- Yo/'t" -- -

(2)

in the front only, remove (6) The solution: that are the same amount from both too large can be corrected by shoulder seams. Example: increasing the shoulder seams, ¾ inch would be ¾ inch on 7. Chalk and measure the adding darts, or easing and shrink­ each front bodice shoulder amount of fullness to be ing out fullness. seam. removed.

18 ing back darts through the 14. Press the dart toward the facing and bodice will cor­ center back of the garment. I I I I rect the I I problem. 15. Replace the line or facing to original position. 16. To correct a gapping V or round neckline without a collar, ease the neckline to .

8. Divide the amount to be re­ moved from the two shoul­ der seams. Example: ¾ inch would be % inch on each of the back bodice shoulder seams.

17. Be sure to use a piece of (1 1) pre-shrunk twill tape that is the exact measurement of 12. On the wrong side of the the finished neckline. garment and facing, draw a 18. Remove facings. Pin tape to 2½ inch (6. 25 cm) line on neckline. Ease fullness to the straight of the grain. tape. The fullness will be so (8) slight that it will almost be smooth. 9. Readjust facings or collar as 19. Adjust fullness, stitch the in the front bodice adjust­ tape within the seam allow­ ment. ance so it doesn't show. 10. Darts are sometimes used in the bodice back to eli­ minate a gap. These darts should be no more than 2 ½ inches ( 6. 25 cm) long and ½ inch (1. 25 cm) deep. To determine amount to be re­ 13. Fold the fabric along moved repeat step 1. this 11. To correct a gapping neck­ straight of the grain, and line that has a facing, add- make a two pointed dart with the greatest width, ¼-½ 20. Press, shrinking out full­ inch (.6-1.25 cm), at the ness. neckline. Stitch the dart from 21. Replace facing, adjust at the the facing point to the bod­ shoulder seam to ensure per­ ice point. fect fit.

Dress/Blouse The problem: Bust line is too tight. The solutions: There are a few limited remedies for this problem. Shoulder darts can be released as gathers or the front shoulder and side seams can be released (11) to provide an additional inch cov-

19 erage on each side of the front bodice bust measurement but will bodice. Since the amount of addi­ give the garment more shape. tional fabric released may not be Unless you have sufficient length sufficient to satisfy the need, it in front of dress or blouse this may not be worth the individual's alteration should not be done. investment. 1. Try the garment on right side out.

(3)

4. If the garment fits smoothly in the back bodice, retain the original back side seam allow­ ances. However, if the gar­ ment is tight across the back release both front and back bodice seams as much as 1. Measure the individual's bust possible. and the garment to be altered. Check the shoulder and side seams for seam allowances Mark the bust position. that can be released. If the bustline measurement is more than 2 inches ( 5 cm) larger ) than the garment bustllne measurement, the garment can't be altered satisfactorily. 2. For ideal fit, the garment C should measure 2 inches ( 5 X cm) more than the body mea­ surement. 3. Rip the shoulder seams, fac­ (4) ing, side and underarm seams 5. The amount of seam allow­ about 4-5 inches (10-12.5 ance released at the shoulder cm) into the original seam. 1/s (0.3 would start at inch (1) cm) and taper to the original seamllne. If a front shoulder Darts usually end 1 inch (2.5 dart is in the bodice, it can be cm) from the bust point. converted to gathers for a soft­ er look, but will not add addi­ tional length. 6. Restitch shoulder, facing and side seams. Press. I/ 1 I I Dress/Bodice I '\ 2. Pin the depth of the desired I \ (3) The problem: Bodice front fits dart. Chalk the width of the All joining seams will need very loosely. dart. to be adjusted by the same The solution: Add front bodice 3. Rip the side bodice seams. amount. darts. This will not change the 4. Position both darts so they

20 are identical in placement, Correcting the problem by taking length and depth. The darts a deeper seam will be illustrated. should end 1 inch (2.5 cm) 1. Try the garment on right side from the bust point. out and pin the amount to be reduced at the shoulder. Mea­ sure that amount. Mark the end of the shoulder.

4. For a deeper seam: rip the top of the armscye seam to midway of the back and front armholes. 5. Stitch darts in place, press and restitch side seams. 6. The addition of darts will cre­ (1) ate a shorter front length. Even the blouse hemline. 2. For gathers at the shoulder, use the tape technique to eliminate a gap at the neck­ line. ~------

(6)

Dress/Blouse 5. Draw a new stitching line from The problem: The garment the pin at the end of the shoul­ shoulder seams are too long and der to the original seamline hang over the person's shoulder. midway between the back and front armhole. 6. Stitch on the inside of arm­ hole circle along the seam, overlapping the original seams at each end. 7. Trim away excess fabric in the armhole area. 3. For darts at the shoulder, use the dart technique to elimi­ Dress/Blouse nate a gap at the neckline. The problem: Upper sleeve is too tight.

The solution: The shoulder seam can be shortened by adding gath­ ers or darts at the shoulder line.

21 ----- I

6. Stitch the side seams as shal­ low as the sleeve seams blend­ ing into the original side seam.

Solution A: The upper sleeve (1) can be enlarged by releasing the seams. 1. Measure the upper arm and 2. Cut 2 triangles of matching the sleeve that would cover fabric the length of the sleeve that area. There should be seam opening and the width 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) ease needed to provide additional in the sleeve. circumference plus seam al­ 2. If the measurements are equal lowances. or if the sleeve is one inch (2.5 cm) greater than the arm measurement, plan to release ½ inch ( 1. 25 cm) on each inside arm seam allowance. 7. Overcast the seam edges with 3. Rip the armhole seam 2 inch­ a zigzag to provide additional es ( 5 cm) on each side of the strength. sleeve seam. 8. Remove original seams and press flat. 9. Restitch the armhole seams. Solution B: The upper sleeve can be enlarged by adding fabric or a gusset to the sleeves. 1. Rip 2 inches (5 cm) into the underarm seam and the bod­ ice side seam. (2)

3. Match the seam edges of the gusset to the edges of the

(3) sleeve seams; stitch on old seam allowances. Repeat for the other side of the gusset. 4. Press the sleeve seam flat. 5. Stitch the new sleeve seam allowance, providing as much additional fabric as possible.

22 4. Depending on the amount removed, the placket will need to be shortened or moved. 5. Replace the cuff.

0: =: Solution A: Shorten the sleeve by repositioning cuff. Try 1. the garment on right side (5) (3) out. Pin a tuck in the sleeves to determine the amount to Solution B: Shorten the sleeve be shortened. Chalk mark the 4. Restitch the armhole seam, at the armhole. This method ap­ tuck, measure the depth of including the width of the plies to a sleeve with fullness at the tuck. gusset. sleeve cap. 1. Repeat step 1 in Solution A. 2. The sleeve can be shortened 1-1½ inches (2.5-3.75 cm) by this method. 3. Remove both sleeves entirely from the armholes. Mark the sleeves and respective arm­ holes. 4. Put one sleeve inside the other, wrong sides together, using the top sleeve as a pat­ tern to shape the under one. (1)

2. Remove the sleeve cuff. 3. Cut the amount designated by the tuck off the bottom of the sleeve.

(4)

5. Press and trim as needed to smooth out any extra ease in the sleeve.

(4) Dress/Blouse Cuffed sleeve is The problem: 5. Slide the sleeves apart the too long. amount to be shortened from the top center and the under­ (3) arms.

23 of ease in the waistband. 2. The skirt may need to be in­ creased at the upper edge. Alterations include stretching the upper edge, releasing gath­ ers or darts, or reducing the seam allowances. 3. Piece the waistband at an in­ conspicuous location such as at the side or as an under extension.

(5)

6. Use the sleeves to shape the contour, the amount cut off will not be the same all around the sleeve. Repeat with the Skirts/Pants other sleeve. 7. Pin the sleeve to the armhole. The problem: Waistband ofjeans The sleeve should be larger is too loose. than the armhole; if the arm­ hole needs to be enlarged, The solution: Matching fabric release the shoulder and side will be necessary to piece the bodice seams. waistband. Look within the gar­ ment for fabric that can be used, such as a facing, hem allowance or . 1. Measure the individual's waistline and garment waist­ band to determine the size of piece to be cut. Ideally, there should be one inch (2.5 cm)

The solution: Create darts in the back of the pants. Darts can be concealed behind the patch pockets if the pants have patch 8 . Stitch sleeves in place. pockets.

Skirts/Pants The problem: Waistband is too tight.

24 Skirts/Pants 2. Pinch and pin the amount 6. Stitch the waistband and The problem: Waistband too from the lower back area un­ press. large with insets. til the fabric no longer wrin­ kles. The problem: Pant legs are too wide.

The solution: Create a center seam in the waistband. 1. Compare waist measurements of the individual and garment 2. Open the waistband in the center back. 3. Zigzag edges of the cut center back waistband seam.

(3)

4. Take up the desired amount in the waistband. 5. Restitch waistband and cen­ ter back pants seams in a continuous seam so they match. (2) Skirts/Pants 3. Chalk and measure the The problem: Skirt/pants wrin­ amount of fabric to be re­ kles across lower back ( sway moved from the center back back). of the garment. The solution: Remove width 4. Remove the waistband, at least evenly from both inseam and to the side seams. outseam. 5. Taper from the center back seam to the sides of the pants/ skirt to the original waistband seam.

The solution: Raise the back waistline seam. (5) 1. Try on the garment

25 1. Pin out fullness at front 2. Turn inside out. Transfer and back crease of one pant pin markings to chalk. leg until desired width is achieved.

\ I I I

I I I I I I I I I 5. Repeat procedure for the I back of the leg. I 6. Repeat for the other leg. I 3. Remove hems, press. Press 7. Blend new seamlines into I outseam and inseams flat. the old seamlines. 4. Work with either the front I 8 . Stitch new seamlines. Rip or the back at one time. out original seams. I Measure the amount to be 9. Press seams open. I removed from the front. Di­ 10. Rehem. I vide the amount evenly be­ I tween the front inseam and outseam parallel to the origi­ I nal seam. I I I . ,-- /1__) (1)

26 Adjusting Hem Length The most frequent alteration • If the hem is uneven, it will be least 1 inch ( 2. 5 cm) longer is changing the hem length. One necessary to mark the entire than the client's street gar­ authority estimates that about hemline. ments. The length of formal 85 percent of all clothing alter­ • Some fabrics are difficult to pin gowns are set by style. Bouf­ ations are the hem adjustments. or will leave pinhole marks. fant styles are usually worn Many people earn a living alter­ Examples of such fabrics in­ floor length, while straight ing only hems. clude leather, vinyl and some styles should touch the top of Tools and equipment needed fake furs. Use metal or plastic the shoe in front. for hem adjustments can run from clips to mark hem length for General Techniques very little to commercial blind those fabrics. Note the new hemmers. If you do a quantity of hem length and remove the • Learn to quickly remove com­ hems, the cost of the blind hem­ clips, as they too may leave mercially hemmed garments. mer will be paid for quickly. A marks if left in the fabric for To remove a machine-blind full-length mirror, hemmarker or long periods of time. Some stitch, hold the hem in your yardstick, good quality pins and hems may be glued in place left hand and with a good rip­ ripper, plastic or metal hem clips rather than sewn by needle and per break the top loop and the and are all of thread. thread under it. If done cor­ the equipment needed to adjust • Luxury fabrics (velvet, satin, rectly, with one pull the entire hems. Ultrasuede, ) may retain hem can be quickly released. pin and needle holes, so only Practice until the technique is perfected. General Guidelines the finest quality pins should be used. Clips may be used to • Hems should be the final ad­ temporarily hold the hem in justment for the garment. If place. several other alterations are • Hem length should be deter­ needed for the garment, check mined by the clients but keep the fit of those alterations be­ in mind their body proportions, fore adjusting the hem. A sec­ the garment style and fashion ond fitting may be necessary to trends. mark the hem. 1. Garment styles that have • The client should wear the same strong unbroken vertical lines shoes ( or same heel height) as can be worn shorter than gar­ they plan to wear with the ments that have several hori­ garment. zontal lines such as belts, • Release both the garment and • Ask the client to stand erect trim or fabric fullness. lining hems at the same time. and not look down as you pin 2. A short-waisted person will They can be pressed, measured, the hem. appear better balanced with a cut (if needed) and pinned all • Ask the client to tum slowly as shorter hemline. The long at once. you pin the new hemline. waisted person will be in bet­ • Use a hem guage for marking. • If the original hemline is even, ter proportion with a longer Some persons prefer to use it is not necessary to mark the hemline. cardboard markers from seam complete hemline. 3. Full length coats should be at tape cards 5 x 2 inches (12.5 x 27 5 cm) and these can be notched at these points, the original treatment such as scallops, for frequently used hem depths hemline is even. ruffles, pleating or borders at such as 1 ½ inches (3. 75 cm). • To alter an even hemline, place the hemline require attention. • Follow hem depths used in bet­ a line of pins around the hem Some of these treatments will ter ready-to-wear as your guide. using 3 to 4 inches (7.5-10 necessitate being shortened at Some clients may prefer to re­ cm) for straight skirts and 2 the waist, above the treatment tain as much depth as possi­ inches ( 5 cm) for full skirts. or perhaps not at all. ble for future lengthening. For • To alter an uneven hemline, • Garments may need to be short­ straight or slightly A-line wom­ establish the amount to be ened at the waist if the bottom en's garments, 1 ½ to 2 inches lengthened. Measure and pin edge includes , scal­ (3. 75-5 cm); for full skirts ½ as close to the bottom of the lops, border print or perma­ to 1 inch (1.25-2.5 cm). hem as possible. Be sure to nent pleats. Check the hem­ • and steam out fullness note that this hem is to be line for evenness and deter­ at the top of the hem before lengthened. The pin marks will mine the amount to be shor­ sewing to create a smooth hem. provide an even line to estab­ tened. Remove the excess fab­ • For rehemming a narrow gar­ lish the new longer length. ric from the top of the skirt, ment (where the hem allow­ • Garments with linings can be this may increase the waistline ance may be equal to or a little measured together if the lining slightly. Ease the skirt and bod­ less than the garment) pull and is the same width as the outer ice together. stretch the top of the too nar­ garment. If the lining is to be • Garments can be shortened row hem before sewing. measured separately, then the from the bottom of the skirt • Begin and end all machine and outer garment should be pinned just above the or pleated hand stitching at a side or back out of the way until the lining area. Pin a tuck at the top of seam. For pants, begin and is measured. the trim to re-position it cor­ end the hems at the inseam. • Coats should be fitted with the rectly. • Use garment vertical seams to type of garments they are worn • Garments that have a pleated anchor the hem. Do not sew over such as blazers, bulky or lettuce leaf finish can be through the seams to the fabric. sweaters, etc. These undergar­ shortened from the bottom. To Whip the hem stitches to the ments affect the length and re-hem these garments, prac­ vertical seam allowance for ad­ drape of the coat. Coat linings tice and test needle, thread col­ ditional hem support. are adjusted during the alter­ or and stitch size on similar or • Lining hems should be slightly ation process and do not need scrap fabric to duplicate the shorter ½-1 inch ( 1. 25-2. 5 cm) separate measurement. original stitch. than the garment. For sheer • Garments that have a special fabrics the linings should be only¼ inch (0.6 cm) shorter. • Press woven fabric hems before stitching. Knit fabrics should be pressed after hand stitching, because a looser hem stitch is used which allows it to shift. For evening and cock­ tail dress hems, only steam press on the wrong side above the hem fold - the hem will not have a sharp edge crease. Measuring Hemlines • Pants usually come just to the • Check the hemline to deter­ top of the shoe in front with a mine if it is even. Place the ½ inch ( 1. 25 cm) drop in the yardstick or hem marker along back. Start at the center front side the skirt at the side seams, _ _..,._-4 _ _. _ _. _ _. crease and turn under the ex­ center back or center front. If tra length . Insert pins vertical­ the measurement is the same ly with the points down and

28 enough pins to hold the new pin half of the gown, providing 7. Pin facing in place. hem in place. there are no body irregularities. ..,- • Pants with cuffs can be short­ ,, .. ened by using a crosswise tuck r:,, to determine the correct length. ': .J - J Follow the procedure used in l°' the original construction of the ', - cuff to restore it.

(7) -~ _ _, ----1 ---i 8. Using a fine hand run­ Hemming Special Garments ning stitch, attach the A. Beaded or sequined gar­ facing to the hem on the ment pressed fold line. 1. A hem facing is required 9. Pull the facing over the to protect the wearer's hem allowance. Baste hosiery. the facing to the hem al­ • Pants can be lengthened if there 2. Select a lining fabric of lowance. Machine stitch is sufficient hem allowance for similar color and weight. the top edges together. the face fabric. Piecing or hem 3. Measure the width of the Treat the two edges as tape can be used for the new garment and add 1 inch one and finish with seam hem allowance. (2. 5 cm) for seam allow­ or lace tape. • Floor-length garments should ances. Cut the facing to 10. Finish hem with hand be shortened with the client accommodate the mea­ or tailor wearing the shoes that will be sured width and depth stitch. worn with the garment. The of hem plus a ½ inch B. Sheer, slippery fabric with hem should be measured on ( 1. 25 cm) seam allow­ rolled hem. the floor; it may be desirable to ance. 1. Establish the new hem­ use a sheet to prevent the gar­ 4 . Stitch the ends of the line. ment from becoming soiled. Us­ facing strip together 2. Make the first fold, 1/8 inch ing a 6 inch (15 cm) ruler, forming a circle. Turn (0.3 cm) lower than the measure on top of the excess one edge of the facing new hemline. length but do not pull on the ½ inch (1.25 cm) and 3. Turn up and press hem fabric or it will not be even. press. plus excess to be trimmed • Bridal gowns with an attached 5. Place the garment on an off. , should be treated as ironing board with the 4. Stitch 1/s inch (0.3 cm) floor length garments. Measure right side out. Place the from the edge of the fab­ across the front of the gown. right side facing circle to ric Do not pin all the way to the the right side of the gar­ side seams. The side seam ment. should be half the amount 6. Position the facing seam shortened in the front and then so it will fall on a gar­ tapered to the train in a gradual ment seamline. Adjust curve. If the line across the the depth of the facing front has been pinned at 2 inch­ circle, so when the fac­ es ( 5 cm) the side seam should ing is pulled over the be 1 inch (2.5 cm). Turn the garment hem the fold will h em up inside the gown and be slightly 1/s inch (0.3 pin vertically. It is sufficient to cm) above the hem edge.

29 5. Trim off excess fabric leav­ 4. Replace pin markings the original lining/facing ing a 1/s inch (0.3 cm) with basting thread or seam. hem allowance chalk. 11. Reposition the front fac­ 5. Remove the original hem ings before hemming the of the coat and lining as coat. The front facing well as top stitching should cover the hem­ along the facings, to 5 line and should be 1/s or 6 inches (12.5-15 cm) inch (0.3 cm) shorter above the new hemline. than the coat hem. /////////// ////////////// ////////////// ////////////// ////////////// ////////////// ////////////// ////////////// /////////////// /////////////// 6. Turn under 1/s inch (0.3 /////////////// /////////////// cm) stitched line and make /////////////// ////////////// a new fold line. ////////////// ////////////// 7. Stitch new fold line about ////////////// ////////////// 1/s inch (0. 3 cm) from the /////// (5) edge (11) 6. Press flat the original 12. If the coat is made of hemline of the coat and bulky fabric and the cli­ lining. Reposition any in­ ent does not wish to terfacing to the new coat lengthen the garment in hemline. the future, some of the 7. Press the hemline of the bulkiness can be cut coat. Trim to desired away from the corner depth. resulting in a flatter, 8. Bring the lining over smoother appearance. the hemline of the coat. 13. Hem the coat with a Mark the lining so that tailor's catch stitch with­ 8. Press to make the hem it is even with the coat, in the hem allowance. hang smoother. then measure up one 14. Bring the coat facing over C. Shorten a coat with lining. inch (2.5 cm) above the the hem, pin the facing 1. Establish the new hem mark Press the new lin­ over the coat hem. Slip­ length. ing hemline. stitch the hem folds to­ 2. Match the front opening gether at the bottom. edges from the neck to Whipstitch the edge of the hemline to make sure the facing to the coat they match exactly. If hem. the hems do not coin­ 15. Press front facings on cide, make them even. the wrong side, use a 3. Lay the coat on a flat clapper to flatten edges. surface and adjust the (8) Press entire hem. lining so it resembles the 9. Sew the lining hem in D. Lengthening coats with a position when worn. Pin place with a hand hem­ lining. the lining in position, ming stitch or machine 1. Check if there is suffi­ about 12 inches (30. 5 blind hemmer. cient hem to lengthen the cm) above the hemline 10. Restitch the edges of the coat the desired amount. around the interior of the lining hems to the edge There will need to be an coat. of the facings in line with additional ½ inch (1. 25

30 to attach the facing. 2. Turned and Stitched: Se- hence the name. This is a 2. Check if there has been lect this finish only on good method to use if the any fabric removed from lightweight, woven fabrics. garment is unlined. Cut the hem or side facing the It is too bulky for most ¾" (1.9 cm) wide bias front overlap. other fabrics. This fin- strips of lightweight lin- 3. Repeat steps 1-6 of short- ish is commonly used on ing fabric to use for the ening a coat. washable . Turn binding. Stitch the bias 4. If the hem needs to be under¼ inch (.6 cm) of strip to the hem edge with faced, pin the hem facing the hem edge and edge- a 1/s" (.3 cm) seam, right ½ inch ( 1. 3 cm) above stitch. If you are working sides together. Turn the the hem marked line. The with a sheer fabric, you strip over the hem edge facing should extend into can eliminate the edge- to the wrong side. Secure front edge facings one inch stitching and just baste the bias strip by hand or (2.5 cm). The lining may the fold in place. stitching-in-the-ditch. also need facing. 5. Repeat steps 8-15.

Hem and Edge Finishes • The hem and edge finish adds the final touch to the garment. Hems should never show on 3. Taped Hem Finish: Seam B. Three hemming techniques the right side unless the intent binding is used for loose­ will be outlined here: fused, is a decorative finish. Various ly woven fabrics and wash­ machine and hand hemming. fabrics and garment styles re­ able garments that would The technique selected de­ quire different hem techniques. be too bulky if the hem pends upon the garment and Edge finishes can be used in­ edge is turned and skill of the seamstress. Fine stead of conventional hems stitched. Use ribbon seam garments are always hemmed on many garments, especially binding or stretch lace for by hand. those made of knit fabrics. straight hems and bias A. Select the proper hem :finish seam binding for flared or 1. Fused hems are quick and for your particular fabric and curved hems. Pre-shrink easy to do; be sure to garment, and secure the hem the seam binding if the follow the manufacturers using one of the techniques garment is to be washed. directions for fusing. Al­ ways test the fusible web given below. Overlap the hem edge one on a scrap of fabric to see 1. Pinked and Stitched: Use half the binding width and if the fused web will be this hem finish on fabrics edgestitch to the hem. invisible on the right side. that don't ravel very much. A hem should not appear ¼ inch (. 6 stiff or boardy. cm) below the top of the a. Cut the fusible web ¼" hem and then pink the (. 6 cm) narrower than edge. the hem width or use pre-cut web strips. b. Finish the hem edge as desired and prepare 4. Hong Kong Finish: Bul­ as previously dis­ ky fabrics that tend to fray cussed. If the hem can be finished with the is circular, ease in elegant Hong Kong fin­ the fullness with ease ish. This finish was first stitching. used on elegant dress­ c. Insert the web between es made in Hong Kong, the hem and garment,

31 making sure it is just good for children's with a hemming stitch, below the hem edge. wear, double knits, catchstitch, or slip­ draperies and men's stitch, depending on trousers but does re­ the hem finish. quire a special machine 1 . The hemming attachment. stitch can be used with a variety of (c.) hem finishes. Us­ ing a single thread, d. Fuse following manu­ working from right facturer's directions. to left, take a stitch 2 . Machine hems can in the hem edge be done with a machine and then just catch blindhemmer or ­ a thread of the gar­ ing techniques. Hemsput 1. Prepare the hem ment. in by machine are quite allowance. durable and well suited 2. Baste the hem for sportswear, children's in place ¼" from clothes and knits. the top and bottom a. Topstitching does not edge. require special attach­ 3. Adjust the machine ments, can add design to the proper set­ interest and is quick ting. to do. Many designers 4. Test the hem stitch 2. The catch stitch use topstitched hems on a sample. provides a more in their clothes. 5. Fold back the gar­ flexible hem. Work­ ment, so that ¼" ing from left to of the seam allow­ right make a hori­ ance is exposed for zontal stitch in the blind hemming. hem allowance, al­ 6. The needle should ternately with a just catch the edge thread or two of the of the garment and garment. Alternate stitches should on­ stitching in a zig­ ly faintly show on zag fashion. the right side of the (a.) garment. 1. Prepare the hem al­ 3. Hand-hemming is prob­ lowance and finish ably the most used sew­ the edge as desired ing hemming technique. (knits do not need Whatever the technique, an edge finish). the hemming thread 2. Topstitch the hem should never be pulled from the right side tightly or the hem will 3. Slipstitch. This of the fabric, using show on the right side. technique is used a guide to ensure a Basically hand hemming only on a flat fin­ straight line. involves two techniques ished hem that has 3. Muliiple rows of -the flat finish and the been turned and topstitching can be inside hem. stitched. Work used for decorative a. The flat finish has the from right to left. purposes. hem edge sewn flat to The needle runs b. Machine blind hem­ the garment. The hem along the hem fold, ming is especially is stitched in place coming out peri-

32 odically to catch a thread of garment References fabric. Brinkley, Jeanne and Aletti, Ann. Altering Ready-to-Wear Fashions. Peoria, Illinois, Chas. A. Bennett Co., Inc. 1976. Chambers, Helen G. and Moulton, Verna. Clothing Selection. New York, J. B. Lippencott Co. 1969. Dixon, Mary Lou. Altering Ready-to-Wear. Bulletin 788. Georgia Cooperative Extension Service. 1980. Perry, Patricia (editor). The Vogue Sewing Book. New York, Vogue Patterns, Butterick Division of American Can Co. 1970. b. The inside flnish is Mrs. Leola Bernard, professional alteration specialist, St. Charles, done between the gar­ Missouri. ment and hem fabric using a tailor's catch stitch. Because the garment and hem are lightly layered together, a hem ridge on the out­ side of the garment does not develop. This method is appropriate for fine knits and wo­ vens. Fold the hem back as illustrated.

Working from left to right, do a catch-stitch between the hem and the garment fabric. In­ sert the needle into the fabric opposite to the hemming direction and the threads will cross over each other, lock­ ing each stitch. If one stitch breaks, the oth­ ers will stay in place until repairs can be made.

MP545

■ Issued in furtherance dt Cooperative Extension Work Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914 in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Leonard C. Douglas, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Missouri and Lincoln University, Columbia, Missouri 65211 . ■ An equal opportunity institution. University Libraries University of Missouri

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