COLLARS and NECKLINES by Alice Sundquist Extension Special~St in Clothing and Textiles

Home , Binding (sewing), Collar (clothing), Fly (clothing), Hem, Neckline, Placket

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Extension Circular 286 June, 1942 COLLARS AND NECKLINES by Alice Sundquist Extension Special~st in Clothing and Textiles

Women and girls can help save our nation's raw materials, labor and machinery for production of war goods through r construction and conservation of clothing.

Necklines are most important because they frame the face. The face of the wearer is usually the center of interest in a costume and the neck finish should be planned to accent one's best features and conceal poor ones. For this reason they need to be right in line, color, texture, and pattern. Necklines may be marked by the finish of the garment, or the finish may be inconspicuous and provide a background for costume jewelry worn to create an attractive neckline or supply a desirable color or texture note. For neck finishes, ·colors that blend with the skin coloring are more flattering. Brilliant, or sharp contrasts of skin coloring reveal imperfections, sallowness, wrinkles, etc. Hard, shiny textures, stripes, and plaids are trying to thin, angular features. Such fea tures may be relieved by pleating, shirrings, cordings, and flat embroideries. However, these add bulk and are not slenderizing to a round face. The neckline~£ a garment should harmonize with: The size of the person The shape of the face The length of the neck The width of the shoulders If the lines of the face and figure are pleasing, it is desirable to emphasize them by repeating them in the neckline, but if they are unattractive, the eye should be led away by an arrangement of lines that will modify the poor ones. For instance: 1. A person with a narrow, long face should choose round neck openings and collars and avoid long or pointed collars or neck openings. 2. A person with a round face, may choose a round collar or neckline provided it is not too broad. It will emphasize the round ness of the face. 3. A rolling round collar of medium width that fastens around the neck usually increases the apparent size of the face. 4. Tall, slender people may have round faces, or large figures may be topped by prominent noses, pointed, or square chins. It takes much thought and careful adjustment of neck finishes for such types. 5. Angles in neck lines, as squares or Vs, especially if brought close to the face, are trying to angular features. Moderate curves and scarfs can relieve this. 6. Deep points, surplice openings, or long necklaces add to the length of line and are good for short necks. 7. Repeat good lines. Never repeat or present a sharp contrast to poor lines you have. 8. The collar should belong to the dress in texture, color and design. Neck finishes and collars are first in style importance in a dress. Always have them look smart. Tailored necklines, such as shown here, are used year in and year out. The widths vary according to fashion but the principle of construction is the same.

CUTTING COLLAR PATTERNS It is often necessary to make changes in the collar pattern be cause of alterations made in fitting the garment, and oftentimes ones needs to cut a collar pattern for a garment not having one.

2 Two Principles in Making Collars Successfully 1. The more nearly the neckline of the collar corresponds to the neckline of the garment, the flatter the collar will lie; or, the opposite: the straighter the neckline of the collar, the more it will roll. 2. No attached collar will fit well if the neckline is exactly like the neckline of the garment; it must roll enough to cover the seam by which it is joined to the garment. For this reason, the entire collar is 0" shorter than the neckline of the dress.

Flat Collar Before cutting a collar, the neckline should be planned. If the neckline of the garment pattern has not been changed, pin the shoulder seams together and lay the pattern flat on a piece of paper with the center back 0" in from the straight edge of the paper. If changes have been made in the fitting, use the garment in stead of the pattern to determine the neckline. Fig. t-Cutting a flat col· Fold the waist of the garment on the center- Iar pattern front and center-back lines, matching the shoulder seams, and pin it to a piece of paper the same way as described above. Trace the neckline of the garment on the paper and extend it 0 inch to the straight edge of the paper at the center back. Remove pattern or garment. At the center front mark off ~ inch on the neckline. (See Figure 1.) Mark the width of the collar and shape the outside edge as desired. This makes the collar 0 inch shorter than the neckline of the garment and when it is attached, the inside edge will be stretched to fit the neck line of the garment. Most of this stretching is done from the shoulder seam to the center front. To make a flat collar pattern roll, straighten the traced neckline as much as needed for the type Fig. 2 -Cuting a roll collar pattern of collar desired. The straighter the neckline is made the more it will roll. Collar C will roll more than B or A, and collar B will roll more than A. (See Figure 2)

To Modify Flat Collar Patterns: To change the length or width of a collar pattern, see Fig. 3.

3 {? {? A 6 t?C . t?p. Fig. 3-Changing length or width of collar pattern. A-Lengthening; B-Shortening; C Narrowing; D-Widening

To increase the amount of roll ip. a flat collar, take darts across the . ~ 1 back of the collar and taper to the ·.. f neckline (See Figure 4-B). If much ~ fullness is to be removed, it is better V to take many small darts instead of A e c a few large ones. In some cases it Fig. 4-Changing the amount of roll may be easier to slash and overlap in a collar pattern the pattern instead of laying darts. To decrease the amount of roll, slash the collar to the seam line as shown in Fig. 4-C and spread the sections apart. Keep the collar neckline a little straighter than the garment neckline so that the collar may roll enough to cover the joining seam. The more nearly the collar conforms to the neckline of the garment, the flatter the collar will be. The Tuxedo collar is one that fits up against the back of the neck and is made of a piece of straight material twice the width de sired for the finished collar. To make it fit more tightly against the neck a small extension 0 inch wide is left on the pattern across the back at the neckline. Similar to pattern shown in Figure 5. Roll Collars Roll collars are straight pieces of double or single thickness material. They may be cut with the center back line on the straight Fig. s-Roll Collar Pattern thread of the goods, or true bias. A true bias collar should be made of double thickness. It fits all body curves with a softness and lack of wrinkles and creases most flatteringly. A straight collar, which fits with more pliability and less strain, may be cut as shown In Fig. 5, with a curve in center back just fitting the curve of the neckline in back of the dress.

SEWING THE COLLAR Collars are usually cut double because they hold their shape better and look smarter. Stitch outer edges together, placing right

4 sides together. Slash the seam on curves and turn right side out bringing stitching out to folded edge. Baste and press. (See Figure 6) Before turning pointed collars, cut the corners off diagonally to avoid a lump and trim the seam. Points, scallops, bindings, pipings, and fac ings make attractive finishes for collars and Fig. 6-Sewing the collar cuffs.

ATTACHING A FLAT COLLAR 1. Locate center-front, center-back of collar. Match these points with those on the garment and pin in place with pins perpendicular to the edge and with wrong side of collar next to the right side of garment. 2. Baste the two edges together. Hold the garment toward you and ease it as you stretch the collar slightly. (Figure 7-A) If the collar rolls in the back, or all the way around, hold it over your hand as you baste it to the garment. This will shorten the collar li~ing so it will not hang below the edge of the collar. 3. Try on the garment and check the fit. 4. Finish the edge with a bias facing. Use same ma terial as the garment for making the bias. It wears

longer and looks better than A B the commercial tape. Cut it three-fourths inch longer than the neckline. If there is a seam in the bias, stitch, trim and press it open before you apply the bias. Place right side of bias down on the right side of collar. Baste it in place, easing the edge Fig. 7-Attaching a flat collar a trifle as it is basted, so that when the opposite edge is hemmed down to the wrong side of the dress it will not draw.

S. Stitch bias facing, collar and garment neckline it). one sti~ch- in g. 5 6. Slash seam on curves. 7. Turn in ends of bias and turn bias over raw edges and pin to garment. Let the collar extend away from the rest of your work. Smooth the fabric carefully so there will be no wrinkles on right or wrong side. Baste in place. 8. Hem bias to garment by hand and leave thread slightly loose. (Figure 7-B) In heavy woolen dresses where self material is used for bias facings in putting on collars, avoid turning the facing twice, instead, pink or machine stitch it on the lower edge and hem by hand not too tightly. Where woolen material is very heavy, a silk bias facing of the same color as the dress makes a smoother finish. A flat collar meets in the center front when the neck opening is closed. If the opening is finished witlf a continuous placket as in A and B in Fig. 7 the collar comes out to the edge of the opening. If the opening is to overlap and button proceed as shown in C and D, Figure 7. (See illustration at beginning of leaflet) ·Convertible Collars This type of collar may be worn fastened close up around the neck or open in a V-shape in front. It may roll slightly or a great deal. The neckline of the collar may be cut straight or curved slightly. Method I The collar is a rectangular strip of goods the length of the neckline and twice the desired finished width, plus ~ of an inch for seam allowance. (See A - Figure 8). The facing is cut length wise of the material with the center-front on a fold. Make the fac ing about one and one-half inches longer than the opening and wide enough to extend two inches down on the shoulder seam. Shape facing according to the neck edge and shoulder edge of the garment as in B, Figure 8. Stitch straight collar at each end. Clip off corner, trim seam, press seam open and turn collar. See Figure 8-A. Place facing on gar ment with right sides to gether, center fold of facing on basting line which indi cates center-front on gar Fig. 8-Attaching a straight collar to a faced open· ing (Method I) ment. Baste in place. Out line opening with machine 6 stitching to a point. Stitch about one-eighth inch on each side of the basting. Slash between stitching (See Figure 8-B). Turn over tf.J.e outer edge of facing and stitch. Pins seams of collar to seams at front opening with the right side of collar next to right side of garment. Baste collar to facing starting from outer edge of facing to seam, along neckline to other seam in opening and to the other outer free edge of the facing. (See Figure 8-B). Stitch, clip seam, press seam open. (See Figure 8-C). Also press open seams down center of facing and on ends o£ collar. Turn collar and facing. Press seams of collar and facing so stitch ing is on the edge. Baste in place. Turn under remaining raw edge of collar at the back of the neek and hem to machine stitching, con l, cealing all raw edges. (See Figure 8-D).

Method II The collar 1s cut in two pieces (top and lining). The collar is two rectangular strips of goods the length of the neckline and the de sired width plus ~ of an inch for seam allowances. The facing is cut lengthwise of the material with the center-front on a fold. Make the facing about one and one-half inches longer than the opening and wide enough to extend two inches down on the shoulder seam. Shape facing according to the ~ c · l?J 0 neck edge and shoulder edge of the F1g. 9-Attachmg a convertible collar (Method II) garment. Cut the center-front of the facing to correspond with neck opening of the garment. Pin one edge of one collar to neckline of garment, laying the right side of the collar on the right side of the blouse. Stitch these together and press the seam open from the front of the opening to the shoulder seam. Clip seam at shoulder and press the seam across the back of the neckline up on the collar. (See Figure 9-A). Pin the edge of the other half of the collar to the neckline edge of the facing, right sides together starting from the end of the collar (and center of facing) working toward the shoulder seam. Stitch. Slash the seam allowance on the curves. Press open. (See Figu.re 9-B).

7 Pin the ends and length of the collar together and the front opening on facing to the front opening on the blouse. Stitch in one operation down one edge of the opening up on the other, and around the collar, as shown in C, Figure 9. At the base of the slash, taper the stitching to a point. ;press open the seams. Turn the facing and collar to inside of blouse. Press seam edge of collar and facing so the stitching is on the edge. Baste in place. (See Fig. 9-D). A machine stitching on this edge will hold the seams in place. · Hem the inside free edge of the collar across the back of the neck to cover the seam edges (Figure 9-D). This method can also be tollowed if the collar was cut double as suggested in Method I-first by attaching one edge of the collar to the garment (A, in Figure 9) and then attaching the opposite edge to the facing (B, in Fig. 9). Then continue with steps as il- · lustrated in C and D, Figure 9, except that in C it would not be necessa~y to stitch along the length of the collar since that would be the folded edge.

NOTCHED COLLAR This collar is applied in the same manner as a convertible collar except that the collar is shorter than the neckline on each end. To form a perfect notch, the width of the collar and the space between the end of the collar and, the end of the neckline must be exactly the same. Method I. This method is similar to Method II just described. Place the right side of the under section of collar to the right side of the garment making certain that both centers meet. Baste, stitch and press seams open. Baste . the facing to the uppe~ part of the collar in the same way with the center-front edges of the facing even with the center-front edges of the garment. Stitch and press seams open. Baste the facing section to the garment, right sides together. Stitch around the front r.1.eck opening and the outside edges of the collar one-fourth inch from the edge. Press seam open.

Fig. zo-Attaching a notched collar (Method I) 8 At the lower end of a V-opening, stitch to form a small curve, · then cut diagonally out. from either side of the end of the opening to within a thread of the stitching. Trim off corners and edges. Turn to the wrong side. Baste and press into position. Finish the I edge of the facing by turning once and hem at shoulder seams and darts to hold it in position. Finish the collar across the back of the neck with hemming.

Fig. xoB-Attaching a notched collar (Method II)

Method II Place collar along neckline, and allow it to extend to the notch, X, in the revers. Stitch as in W, stitching both edges of the collar to neckline and revers. Press these seams open. When revers and collar are stitched together in this way and turned right side out I all seams are concealed. The joining appears as in Y. The pressed l open seams lie flat, one over the other as in Z. Clip neck edge of blouse at the end of revers. Hem free edge of collar to seam of the back neck as in ·o.

Binding and Finishiag Neck Opening A Continuous Placket Sew one edge of bias strip to opening, right sides together. See Fi'gure 11-A. Fold and turn edge under and hem over seam. See Figure 11 -B.

Fig. xx-Making a continuous placket 9 A Binding Mark the 01~ening with a colored basting thread. ('111/ Cut the binding on the lengthwise of the material ~ · one inch longer than the opening and make a lengthwise crease, through A Fig. 12-Binding a neck opening the center of the piece. Place the crease of binding exactly on the colored basting, right sides together, and baste it in place. Stitch one-fourth inch on either side of the crease and across the lower end, making square corners. Cut on the center crease to within three-eighths inch of the end, then cut diagonally into each corner as close to the stitching as possible without cutting it. See Figure 12-A. Turn the binding to the wrong side, turn the raw edge under, baste to the line of stitching, then hem by hand. Hold the lower end in place with invisible stitches. (See Figure 12 B and C)

Bound N ec~line and Opening This is one of the simplest neck finishes known. To make: Slash the opening down from the tleck, far enough down to allow the garment to slip over the head easily. Finish with a French binding. Stitch the binding to the right side of garmeNt. Begin at shoulder seam SO· joining will

Fig. 13 _ Bound be made there. Stitch around neck-edge and down neckline and open· ing both sides of front opening. Stretch the binding slightly at the bottom of the opening and take a narrow seam there. Clip the corners away to make possible a smooth, flat turn. Turn the folded edge over to the wrong side and hem it down to the stitching line.

Bound Back Opening

Apply binding as stated above. Make loops to hold buttons, using bias strips of material. Sew in place when the binding is stitched on.

Fig. 14-Bound back opening 10 . BINDINGS Single bias binding is made by cutting a true bias twice the finished width plus two seam allowances. If binding is to be finished by hand, place the right side of binding to right side of material. Baste and stitch in Fig. Is-Applying a single bias binding place. Press and fold binding to the wrong side. Turn in raw edge and bring folded edge just to stitching. Baste and hem by hand. (Figure 15). If desired to finish by stitching, bring folded edge just beyond first stitching on the wrong side and baste carefully in place. Stitch from right side close to binding but not on it, catching the edge of binding on th.e wrong side. Another method is to place the right side of binding to the wrong side of material and stitch in place. Bring folded edge to right side and stitch in place close to the edge. Double bias or French binding is used when material is soft or light weight. It is made by cutting the true bias strip four times the desired finished width, plus two seam al lowances. Fold the strip lengthwise and place Fig. I 6 - Applying a double bias binding to the right side of the material· with raw edges of binding even with edge of material. Baste and stitch in place. Turn bias to wrong side and hem by hand to first line of stitching. (Figure 16). If machine stitching is desired, bring the folded edge just beyond t'he first line of stitching, baste carefully in place. Stitch from right side close to edge of binding but not on it. This makes a good type of neck finish for very sheer or fine silk garments. (Figure 17)

Fig. I 7-Double bias binding as neck line finish Commercial bias binding usually has the raw edges turned in and sometimes it is creased in the center. It may be applied as a single bias binding or may be folded and slip ped over the edge. If the latter method is used, fold and press so one edge is slightly Fig. I8- Commercial bias binding - basted in place wider than the other. Slip over the edge with wider side on the wrong side, baste and stitch in place, close to the edge catching both edges of tape with one stitching. (Figure 18) 'l'hose skilled in sewing may apply commercial tape with a binder.

11 Piecing a Bias Binding. When attach ing bias to a circular opening baste . binding on edge to be finished, starting about 2 inches from end of bias and stopping 2 to 4 inches from the place started. Fit the bias to the Fig. Ig-Joining bias bind- opening to determine the place of seam. Seam ing the two edges diagonally in the true bias fashion and not with a straight seam. (Figure 19) Cut away sur plus material. Press seam open and finish basting and stitch m place. Preca1:1tions in Applying Bias Bindings or Facings 1. Since bias stretches, hold the bias strip slightly taut when basting· in place, particularly on a straight edge. 2. When applying on a shaped edge, or curve, ease the bias on the outward swinging angles and stretch it on the inward angles. 3. When applying bias on a square corner, make the turn so that a triangle of bias stands up from the surface to insure a flat smooth finish on the outer edge. Applying A Bias to a Square Neckline To apply bias to a corner of a square neck, slash the corner of the neck at right angles to the direction the binding is to take. Cut slash the width of the folcl,ed l.~m, bias trim. (See Fig. 20-A). Stitch bind ing to corner, pivot on machine needle, A limi, : fold binding in true miter, folding inside portion over corner slash. (See Fig. 20-B) Fig. 20-Applying bias to a square neckline Continue to stitch binding after miter is folded. (See Fig. 20-C). FACINGS A facing is a piece of material used for finishing an edge and frequently used for decoration. It shows only from one side of the garment or article. A facing may be bias, straight, shaped or fitted and is made by cutting it once the desired finished width, plus two seam allowances. A corded facing is sometimes used for a neck finish. Cut a true bias the desired width for facing plus cording and seam allowance. Cover the cording with an edge of the bias leav

Fig. 21-Corded facing ing a seam allowance. Hold cord in place with nanning stitch. Apply this facing with corded 12 edge to right side of garment and narrow edge of facing meeting neckline edge. Stitch a seam's width. Turn facing to wrong side leaving corded edge extending beyond edge. The lower edge of facing is turned back on itself and stitched in place. If wide· enough it may be caught at frequent intervals to the garment, or it may be slip stitched in place. (Figure 21). Pipings of the same or of contrasting fabric or color are folds of material, usually bias, used on edges or seams for decorative purposes. They appear as narrow folds extending beyond the edge on the right side with or without the stitching showing. Plain piping is made by cutting a bias strip twice the desired finished width plus two seam allo~ances. Fold lengthwise in the center or a little to one side of center. Fold

back raw edge of garment. Place piping so Fig. 22-Piped edge that narrow fold extends beyond folded edge of garment. Baste in place and stitch on. right side close to the folded edge of garment. If no stitching is to show, place piping on right side of material with raw edges of piping extending beyond garment edge. Baste and stitch in place using garment edge for a guide. (Figure 22). Fold facing back to wrong side leaving only the piping edge extend ing beyond the edge of the garment. Press. The free edge of the facing may be slip-stitched or machine stitched to garment. Piping may be placed between the edges on a garment, such· as in the front facing of a dress or the collar, and held in place with the seam. It may be placed under a band or folded edge and held in place with a machine stitching along edge of band on the right side. Facing a V -Neckline Stitch together 1_0 inch width bias strip to neck-edge with right sides together. (A facing cut to fit the neckline may be used.) Stitch ends at point. Clip edges, also point of V. (See Figures 23A and B)

Fig. 23-Facing a V-neckline 13 T rim away surplus material and press seam open at point of V. Turn facing to inside of garment. Baste, press, and stitch along turn. Turn raw edge under and stitch. Leave this edge free, fasten ing it only to neck darts and shoulder seams. Applying a Facing on a Square Neckline • Pin a bias or a straight strip to ,--~"------=--. neckline, right sides together. Leave a triangular fo ld at corner. P in, so that the facing lies perfectly flat. Baste and stitch at corners. Cut away excess ma terial and press )4 inch seam open. Baste ·r and stitch facing to entire neckline. Clip 1 I . . I seam under mitered corner to the stitch- ~.... ing line. Turn to wrong side, baste, Fig. 24- Facing a square neckline press, machine stitch raw edge, and slip stitch to darts and seams of garment al lowing the other parts to lie flat inside garment. The neckline may be stitched along the turn to help hold the facing in place. Tailored Neck Openings To fit comfortably, the shortest opening should measure your head size plus two inches. For example, for a head size of 20", if the neck of the blouse measures 13 ", make length of front opening 9". Slash down 9" from neck exact ly in center. If you are long-waisted, a longer line will be more becoming. To Make.: Fig. 25- Short front Measure length of opening. Cut two length- opening wise strips of fabric, one as wide as collar at widest point, and one strip half as wide. For example: If collar measures 4" at widest point, make one strip 4" wide and the other 2" wide. Cut wider strip 2" longer than slash and narrower strip 0 -inch longer than slash. Begin at top of slash to pin strips in place, and put right side of strip toward wrong

Fig. 26-Tailored neck opening side of blouse. Place narrow strip on left 14 edge of opening, and stitch in place. Bring free edge to right side of blouse, turn under edge ;i" and stitch in place. Place wide strip on the right side of opening, as in Figure 26-1. Point or square the end-if pointed, cut away surplus fabric. Baste folded edge of tab; then begin at top and stitch on folded edge (if desired), holding the left side of garment free from the opening. At the bottom of the opening, break thread and arrange bottom of tab flat in place over the under piece of the opening. Stitch around tab and across lower part so that the underneath piece is held firmly in place (See Fig. 22), and continue along edge of tab to neckline. To make a collar, cut a lengthwise strip 2" longer than neck measurement and 7" wide. Fold lengthwise throug-h the center; then crosswise through the center. Begin ning at crosswise fold, cut 1" in from the 27-Cutting a tailored open edge and to within 1" of the ends, collar tap.ering as in Figure 27. Cut from this point to the folded edge as dotted line shows. Turn fabric wrong side out, fold lengthwise through the center, and stitch across short ends only. Cut off corners, press seams open, turn collar - baste ends so stitching is on edge. Press. Apply to neckline with a bias facing. Begin witb one end in center of opening, and work toward center-back; then work from opposite end to center-back. See Figure 7, C and D. Button holes on this closing are made vertically .(up and down).

Bib Front Bibs are usually cut double and set in or: applied on to the dress. Take two lengthwise folds of fabric. Lap as much as required for type of fastener tr•) be used for neck opening. Cut using the blouse front pattern. If buttonholes are to be used, make them before attaching bib. When made, pin two pieces of bib in position. Cut that part of blouse away, into which the bib is to be Fig. 28-Bib front inset, allowing generous seam widths on blouse and bib. Turn seam edge of blouse in, slash corners and baste. Stitch in place. Apply collar. See Figure 28.

15 Slot Closing Turn edges of center front opening back to wrong side from 1" to 1 Yz ", and crease. Stitch right hand side, as in Figure 29-A. For the fly, take a fold of fabric twice the

F!g. zg-Slot closing width of slot opening plus seam allowances and crease lengthwise through the center. Catch raw edges inside seam edge of left side as in Figure 29-B. Sew fasteners under right hand side and on fly. Decorative hooks and eyes, buckles, or other fasteners may be used on right side of garment and the slot closing thus keeps the blouse from gaping open. Blind-Fly Closing Turn edges of open ing to wrong side of gar ment, as in Y Figure 30. Turn left ·£ron t in 1'', turn right front in 4y;" making turn M" outsid~ center-front line of waist pattern. Fold and crease

Fig. 30-Blind · fly closing the part turned under on right side, so as to lay a 1;4" wide plait under top plait, as m X Figure 30. Front plait should be )4" wider than fly when finished. Catch fly and top plait with one row of stitching as shown. Make buttonholes down length wise center of fly.

References ; Modern Dressmaking Made Easy-Mary Brooks Picken Clothing Construction-Brown, Gorham, Keever.

Published and distributed in furtherance of the Act of May 8, 19 14, by the State College of Washington, Extension Service, F. E. Balmer, Director, and U. S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.