Urban Outfitters Minimum Quality and Construction Standards

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URBAN OUTFITTERS MINIMUM QUALITY AND CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS:

Urban Outfitters Inc. produces and sells high quality garments and accessories. All vendors manufacturing products for UOI must adhere to “best practice” industry standards regarding all aspects of product development & production.

This list does not include all of our standards; however, it does highlight the most important details. Any deviation from these standards must be approved by the Technical Designer prior to the start of bulk production.

Urban Outfitters reserves the right to cancel, charge back or enforce repairs on any order if our minimum construction standards are not strictly followed.

All fit samples should be made using the approved quality fabrics, trims & wash treatments. If substitute qualities are used to make a fit sample and that sample is then approved for production then the vendor must assume full responsibility for testing & comparing all approved qualities against the substitute qualities to ensure the production garment will have the same feel, function, fit & appearance as the approved fit sample unless otherwise noted.

TABLE OF CONTENTS ADJUSTERS ...... 2 BARTACKS ...... 2 BEADS/SEQUINS ...... 2 BELTS ...... 3 BELT LOOPS ...... 3 BUTTONS ...... 4 BUTTONHOLES ...... 5 COLLARS & LAPELS ...... 7 DARTS ...... 8 DRAWSTRINGS ...... 8 ELASTIC & RIB ...... 8 FABRIC & LINING ...... 9 FACINGS ...... 9 FILL (outerwear)...... 9 FLY ...... 9 GARMENT DYED/PIGMENT DYED GARMENTS ...... 10 HANGER LOOPS ...... 10 HEMS/BANDS & CUFFS ...... 10 HEMS & EDGE FINISHES ...... 10 HOOK FLEX ...... 11 HOOK & EYE ...... 11 INTERFACING ...... 11 LABELS ...... 12 LINGERIE STRAP GUARDS ...... 12 LINING ...... 12 LOCKER LOOPS ...... 13 LOOPS ...... 13 NAP FABRICATIONS ...... 13 NEEDLE ...... 14 PACKING ...... 14

1 PATTERNED FABRIC ...... 14 PLACKETS ...... 14 PLEATS ...... 14 POCKETS ...... 14 PRESSING ...... 15 RIBBON & GROSGRAIN ...... 15 SEAMS & TOP STITCHING ...... 15 SHIRRING ...... 18 SHOULDER PADS ...... 19 SLEEVE HEADERS ...... 19 SMELL ...... 19 SMOCKING ...... 19 SNAPS ...... 20 RIVETS/GROMMETS ...... 20 THREADS ...... 20 TRIMS ...... 20 VENTS & SLITS ...... 20 WAISTBANDS ...... 21 ZIPPERS ...... 21

ADJUSTERS– Do not use plastic adjuster hardware. Must be set with 2’’ between center of slider and top inside edge of the “o” ring. Refer to the Tech Pack for required placement details. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details

BARTACKS– Use at all stress points (i.e. top and bottom of pocket openings) as specified on Tech Pack. Use reinforcement behind all bar tacks on inside of the garment: Reinforcement may be one of the following: 1. Patch of specified quality interfacing 2. Garment facing 3. inside pocket bag Must be without broken, uneven, repaired or missing stitches Bar tack SPI must not compromise strength of the garment. Body fabric must not tear or rip when stress is applied to the body fabric around bar tacks.

BEADS/SEQUINS– Must be attached with a maximum float of 1”. Floats must be double knotted every 1” unless specified otherwise. Include a minimum of 6 (medium to large) or 12 (small) extra beads for each quality used on the garment. Refer to the Tech Pack for required extra bead bag quality & placement specifications. Use appropriate reinforcement behind all embellishments as needed to prevent puckering / wrinkles in body fabric. Refer to “TRIMS” section for more details

2 BELTS– Refer to the Tech Pack for required length, placement & construction requirements Must be finished at both ends according to the specifications in the Tech Pack. When Tie Belts are used & no bow is required the belt should be tied in a square knot as sketch below shows:

Tied belt tails should be equal length on each side of center knot unless otherwise noted. All belts should be hidden tacked to garment at either the side seam or at CB to prevent loss of belt on the sales floor. Tacking must be easily removed by customer and must not cause damage to garment or belt once removed. The tie / pack method of belt must prevent belt tail ends from hanging below the hem level of the garment when garment arrives for display on the sales floor. Refer to the “RIBBONS & GROSGRAIN” section of this manual for cautions regarding end finish if this type of trim is required for belt.

BELT LOOPS– Refer to the Tech Pack for required length and placement

Cut & sew loops : 1. Must be clean finished & securely tacked. Any loose or hanging threads must be clipped. 2. Turned back (under) seam allowances (tails) at top and/or bottom must be trimmed to = maximum length of ¼’’ from fold edge. 3. Set waistband loops into bottom waistband seam unless specified otherwise.

Thread chain loops: 1. Create using 2 ply (strands) of thread & a minimum SPI of 16 unless otherwise noted. 2. The thread denier (tex #) used to create the chain must compliment the weight of the body fabric. Refer to the Tech Pack for minimum denier specification. 3. Must support the weight of the coordinating belt without breaking the loop or causing damage to the garment. 4. Must be securely joined to the garment along a seam unless otherwise noted. 5. 1 or 2 point attachment may be used. Refer to the Tech Pack for specification.

BUTTONS– Do not attach to a single ply. All buttons must be sewn through a minimum of 2 ply (layers) of fabric (i.e. body & facing or body with a re-enforcement patch set on underside).

Hand Stitched Buttons- 1. Use needle threaded with maximum of 2 ply (thread strands). Caution: DO NOT thread needle with more than 2 ply. 2. Use a minimum of 4 passes (stitches) thru each hole. The total # of required stitches may increase as combination of thread denier (TEX) & size of the actual hole in the button permits. 3. Wrap shanks a minimum of 2 times & double knot securely for all functional buttons. 4. The length of all thread shanks must = the total thickness of the finished body fabric & facing layers combined. 5. Thread knots must be secured to fabric. Do not secure only to threads. Machine Stitched Buttons- 1. Use Lockstitch 304 Button sewer (this machine interlocks the needle thread with a bobbin thread so that it will not unravel) 2. Each hole gets a minimum of 4 passes (stitches) and must be knotted securely. “Reinforcement” buttons should be used inside / behind all functional front closure buttons on all outerwear garments unless specified otherwise on Tech Pack. Include 1 extra button for each quality used on the outside of the garment unless otherwise noted. Refer to the Tech Pack for required extra button bag quality & placement specifications. If stitching used to attach the buttons or stitch the buttonholes is contrast (different than the body color) then 1 yard of contrast color thread should be included in the extra button bag -- except if contrast color used is white or black. Delicate buttons must be wrapped prior to shipping as needed to prevent any damage to button during shipping. Do not use shell buttons. Refer to “TRIMS” section for more details.

BUTTONHOLES– Do not attach to a single ply. All buttons must be sewn through a minimum of 3 ply (layers) of fabric (i.e. body, facing & interfacing or body with a re- enforcement patch set on underside). Buttonhole opening size must = Diameter of approved button plus the thickness of button (add an additional 1/8’’ to the buttonhole opening size when shank buttons or thick fabrics are used.) Buttonhole opening size for “Full Ball” buttons must = Distance around ½ of the total ball plus 1/8’’. Buttonhole SPI must not compromise strength of the garment. Body fabric must not tear or rip when stress is applied to the body fabric around buttonholes. Must be without broken, uneven, repaired or missing stitches All machine stitched buttonholes must be cut open using sharp knives & trimmed to ensure no raw or frayed fabric; loose or hanging threads & interfacings must not be visible in the buttonhole opening. Must be correctly aligned and spaced for their size, location and end use (see sketches) SPI & interfacings used for Bound Buttonhole openings must be appropriate to the fabric to avoid frays and or holes at corners.

Single Breasted Standard Button & Buttonhole Placement Requirements:

Double Breasted Standard Button & Buttonhole Placement Requirements:

COLLARS & LAPELS– Under collars must NOT roll to outside (become exposed). The seam along the outside collar edge must be hidden; seam must roll to the under side of collar a minimum of 1/8’’ all around (see sketch below).

Under collars must be interfaced unless otherwise noted. Refer to the recommended interfacing qualities as listed separately by product category. Do not use interfacing on Top collar unless specified otherwise. All seam allowances must be trimmed, notched and or clipped as needed to reduce bulk. (see sketches)

Points must not be bulky. Seam allowances must be trimmed & points must be fully pushed out.

7 DARTS– Darts on left & right sides of garment must have identical, size, shape and angle unless otherwise noted. Must not have dimples or bubbles at dart apex (point). Ends must be securely knotted / backstitched. Knot must not create bulk visible on the outside of the garment. All hanging threads must be trimmed. For Vertical darts, press “intake” toward the center of the garment unless otherwise noted. For Horizontal or French darts, press “intake” toward the bottom opening. For all darts having a flat intake greater than 1 1/4’’: must trim seam allowance to 3/8’’, finish edge & press as specified in Tech Pack unless otherwise noted.

DRAWSTRINGS – Must be finished at both ends according to the specifications in the Tech Pack. Must be tacked to the garment in at least one location to prevent string from pulling out of tunnel. Tacking must be hidden unless otherwise specified. Drawstring tunnel opening must either be clean finished or have securely placed grommets, or buttonholes. Lining or interfacing layers inside tunnel must not be visible thru the tunnel opening hole. Knots in drawstring ends must be permanent Refer to the “RIBBONS & GROSGRAIN” section of this manual for cautions regarding end finish if this type of trim is required for drawstring. Refer to “Active Construction Standards” for additional information

ELASTIC & RIB– Must extend to the fullest fabric width without breaking stitches or binding the body. Elastic must not roll over on itself. Tunneled elastic must be caught in the seam or tacked at the seams. If specified as “Full Elastic”, set circular. Elastic must be stretched evenly during application. Seams in the elastic, if present, must be lapped a minimum of 3/8’’with 2 rows of secured stitching. Elastic quality used for production must be the same as used in the approved fit sample unless specified otherwise. Woven or Knitted elastics may be sewn directly to the garment or inserted in a casing (since woven & knit elastics maintain there original width when stretched). Braided elastic should not be sewn directly to the garment & should only be used inside casings (since braided elastic becomes narrower when stretched).

FABRIC & LINING– Must pass all required performance tests. No fabric defects or shading within the garment allowed. Must not have repair to body, lining fabric or component parts. Must not have miscellaneous weaving defects. Must not break in print pattern, have poor print registration or dye streak. Must not have bow in fabric more than ½” in any 6” horizontal measurement or more than 1” over full body width. Must not have skewing (torque) in fabric more than 5% (on the length). Must not have substitutions, poor color match or print pattern as compared to master swatches. When different fabrics are combined within a garment: must ensure differential shrinkage does not exceed 2% unless otherwise noted.

FACINGS– Must be interfaced unless otherwise noted. Refer to the recommended interfacing qualities as listed separately by product category. Must not “roll out” (show on the outside of garment). The seam allowances must be trimmed, clipped and or notched prior to pressing & under stitching. (see sketches)

Must have under stitching (set no closer than 1/16’’ away from the seam). Must not ripple, pucker or toque. Must be securely tacked to body at all seams unless otherwise noted. Must be clean finished to the lining (whenever lining is used) unless otherwise noted. If there is no lining, the free edge of the facing must be finished with an appropriate seam finish to prevent raveling such as with a merrow (ISO#504), clean finish turnback or bound finish. Refer to the Tech Pack for specification.

FILL (outerwear)– Must be attached to shell fabric so that it will not move or bunch. It must be consistent in feel/thickness thru out the body. Fill must not come through to the shell fabric intended to encase it. Fill should be trimmed out of all seam & hem allowances to reduce bulk.

FLY– All raw edges must be finished to prevent raveling such as with a merrow (ISO# 504), clean finish turnback or bound finish. Refer to the Tech Pack for specification.

9 The WB closure must be aligned/centered above the zipper teeth. The teeth must be completely hidden by the fly overlap when stress is applied to the WB & fly closure. (Minimum 1/8’’ overlap required). For button fly closures: the CF seam must not become exposed when buttons are fastened /closed & stress is applied.

GARMENT DYED/PIGMENT DYED GARMENTS– Must adhere to crocking standards unless specified otherwise. All efforts must be made to ensure fabric is stabilized to prevent crocking. If a garment fails the crocking test, the Technical Designer must be notified so that they can update the Tech Pack to include the appropriate disclaimer hangtag information. (Refer to the Tech Pack for approved tag design & wording.)

HANGER LOOPS– Required for all strapless garments or garments with wide necklines over 10”. Refer to Tech Pack for required length, make and placement. Ends joined to the garment must be finished. Refer to the “RIBBONS & GROSGRAIN’’ section for more details. Quality & attachment method of loop must support the weight of the garment without causing damage to the garment or to the loop. Quality must not deteriorate due to normal use or after garment is cleaned according to recommended care.

HEMS/BANDS & CUFFS - Finish circular and clean finish unless otherwise noted.

10 Blind stitching must be secure; it must not fall out during normal garment use or after garment is cleaned according to recommended care instructions.(Refer to our separate Knits, Soft Woven’s or Structured Woven’s construction standards sections for blind stitching SPI requirement.) Sleeves and bottom openings must be hemmed circular so that no seam allowances show. Stay stitching must be used if raw cut edges are requested unless specified otherwise. Refer to the Tech Pack for required placement.

HOOK FLEX – The hook must align with the bar properly to ensure all garment edges & seams (which are held together with the hook & bar) are aligned & level. Do not set through single ply. Must be attached through a minimum of 2 layers of fabric (i.e. body & facing or body with re-enforcement patch set on underside). Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details

HOOK & EYE Attach using needle threaded with 2 ply (strands); each hole gets 4 passes (stitches), wrap shank minimum of 2 times, double knot securely. Caution: DO NOT thread needle with more than 2 plys. The hook must align with the eye properly to ensure all garment edges & seams (which are held together with the hook & eye) are aligned & level.

Refer to the “BELT LOOPS” section for thread chain standards if thread chain/loop “eyes” are used. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details.

INTERFACING – Refer to the interfacing section within the separate construction standards section in this manual for Knits, Active, Soft Woven’s & Structured Woven’s for all standard interfacing specifications. Must be securely attached following manufacturer’s instructions. Must not become loose or fall off during normal use or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions. Must be used on all inside plys of collars, lapels, neckbands, cuffs, plackets, waistbands, facings, & tailored hems unless otherwise noted. Must be smooth and flat without bubbling or puckering. Must be compatible with shell fabric in weight and shrinkage standards. Must not show through to right side of garment.

11 Care requirements of the interfacing must be compatible with those of the garment fabric. Heavy interfacings should not be caught in seam unless specified otherwise. Woven interfacings must be cut on the same grain as the garment piece it is attached to & should be caught in the seams & trimmed to end max 1/8’’ past the seam line. Use interfacing in any areas requiring shape, body, support and reinforcement, and where seam impressions may be a problem.

LABELS– Must be neatly and securely attached, according to Urban Outfitters standards and details listed in Tech Pack. Thread color used to attach the label should match the label color unless otherwise noted. If thread used to attach the label will be visible on the outside of the garment then the outside thread color must match the outside body color unless otherwise noted.

LINGERIE STRAP GUARDS– Refer to the Tech Pack for all construction & placement specifications. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details if trim is used to make strap guard. Refer to the “RIBBON & GROSGRAIN” section if ribbon or grosgrain trim is chosen to create the strap guard.

Basic Lingerie strap guard options:

LINING–

12 Must not hang below the outside finished hem line; must finish a minimum of ½’’ above the outside finished hemline. Refer to the Tech Pack for exact specification. Must allow sufficient ease for body movement and differential shrinkage. Lining fit must conform to outside layer. Must be tacked to the body seam allowance at the shoulder and at the under arm. Free hanging lining must be joined to the body in at least 1 location (along a seam) using thread chain “swing tacks” with minimum 1’’ length. Swing tacks must not hang below the finished hem level. Seams must be finished so that there are no raw edges. Lining should be attached (clean finished) to the garment facings & hems whenever possible to ensure the appearance of the inside of the garment is neat and clean. Jacket/Coat linings must have 1’’ deep ease pleat at center back which should be stitched closed for 1 ½’’ from center back neck seam unless otherwise noted.

LOCKER LOOPS– Refer to the Tech Pack for required construction & placement. Quality & attachment method of loop must support the garment weight without causing damage to the garment or loop. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details if trim is chosen to create loop. Refer to the “RIBBON & GROSGRAIN” section if ribbon or grosgrain trim is chosen to create loops. See “Structured Woven Standards” section for more locker loop details. See “Active Standards” section for more locker loop details.

LOOPS– Refer to “TRIMS” section if trim is chosen to create loops. Refer to “RIBBON & GROSGRAIN” section if ribbon or grosgrain trim is chosen to create loops. If loops are used for button closure, the opening size within the loop must be appropriate to the size of the button. Refer to the “BUTTONHOLES” section for details. Must be securely set into a seam (i.e. between the body & facing or body & lining layers). Loops must pull out of seam during normal use or when garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions.

NAP FABRICATIONS– All pieces of one garment must be cut with the nap running in the same direction. Cut all pieces “Nap Up” unless specified otherwise. Use needle board or “self” fabric press cloth when pressing to avoid damage to nap.

13 Must ensure packing & shipping method will not crush or damage nap in any way.

NEEDLE– Needle size and type must be applicable to the operation and fabrication. (i.e. ballpoint needles must be used in knits) Routine needle changes are required during production to avoid possible fabric damages.

PACKING Refer to the Tech Pack for all product specific requirements. Elevated trims (i.e. flower brooches) must be supported / protected as needed to prevent crushing or damage during shipping. Heavy weight packing tissue must be under all collars & lapels on all jackets & outerwear unless otherwise noted. Tissue must be twisted to form a minimum ¾’’ diameter log. The log ends must be taped together to ensure log will remain securely in place under the collar & lapel during shipping. Sleeves must be stuffed with tissue as needed to prevent over arm creases. (Must avoid creases created by packing pressure during shipping).

PATTERNED FABRIC Must match all stripes, plaids or prints along the center front and center back seam lines (or rises for pants) unless otherwise noted. Patterns must be balanced on all collars, sleeves, cuffs and pocket pairs.

PLACKETS– Always clean finish unless otherwise noted. Buttonhole stitching must not cross over any placket topstitching or seam line. Refer to the “INTERFACINGS” section for more details. See “Structured Woven Standards” section for more placket details.

PLEATS– Knife pleats in the hems of skirts & coats should be tacked closed with loose x tack unless otherwise noted.

POCKETS– Pocket bags must be finished so that there are no raw edges. Internal pocket bags must not extend below finished hem level. Pockets must be evenly aligned on left & right sides of garment unless specified otherwise. Any pocket placement markings must not be visible. Pockets must lay flat without pulling, twisting or rolling. Angled & curved shape pocket openings must lay smooth & flat. Must use appropriate reinforcement inside along seam as needed to prevent stretching & gapping.

14 Pocket facings must not be set into clean finished bag seams in order to avoid excess bulk. (see sketch) Topstitching on pockets must be smooth & symmetrical unless otherwise noted. Hidden (interior) welt or besom chest pockets (used for jackets & outerwear) must not cross over the seam between the facing & lining unless otherwise noted. (Hidden chest pockets must be fully set within either the facing or lining to reduce cost). Horizontally or diagonally set welt or besom pockets should be basted (temporarily sewn) closed 1 ½’’ (centered on pocket opening) using maximum 5 SPI unless otherwise noted. ( The basting stitches must not be locked & should be easily removable by customer without causing damage to the fabric. The basting stitches should not prevent dye from adhering to facing fabric.) See “Structured Wovens Standards” section for more pocket details.

PRESSING– Pressing instructions will be specific to Brand and/or style. Refer to the Tech Pack for details. A “press cloth” should be placed between the iron and garment or between the seam allowance & garment as needed to prevent damage to the fabric (i.e. shine or ridges at seam allowance edges.) Do not press a crease into the center of any sleeve or pant leg unless noted otherwise on the Tech Pack. Refer to the “NAP FABRICIATIONS” section for more pressing details.

RIBBON & GROSGRAIN– When used for straps, side seam ties, neck ties or hanger or locker loops: the ends that are set into the seam must either be clean finished (with single needle) or heat sealed to ensure trim will not unravel & pull out of the seam. Ends must be finished to prevent fraying. Refer to the Tech Pack for required specification. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details.

SEAMS & TOP STITCHING– All products must be sewn using the specified number of “stitches per inch” (SPI) according to our standard SPI requirements which are listed separately for the following categories:

1. Knits: see Knit Standard 2. Woven’s: see Soft or Structured Standards 3. Active: see Active Standards

All Seams, Topstitching, Buttonholes & Bartacks- Must be without broken, uneven, repaired or missing stitches. Tension must be properly set to avoid puckers, unintentional “zig zag” stitch line appearance, pleats, roping & torque.

15 Stitching should be evenly spaced from the seam edge for the entire length of the seam. Must be smooth & flat with no puckers or pulls unless design dictates otherwise. Do not use raw edges unless specified otherwise. Must not have conspicuous seam repair. Must ensure natural stretch of fabric is not restricted on all seams with stretch unless specified otherwise. For Pants– Join the rises in the round after joining inseams unless flat fell seams are required or noted otherwise on the Tech Pack. All seaming & topstitching must be locked by sewing it into a seam or hem or by tacking or backstitching. Refer to “STITCHES” section for more details. All inward curved seam allowances should be clipped & all outward seams should be notched as needed unless otherwise noted. (see sketches below)

All corners should be reinforced with interfacing & double stitched using 4 to 6 more SPI than required for standard seaming. (see sketches)

SEAM STANDARD CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS:

SHIRRING– Fullness must be evenly distributed. Stitching use to create shirring must be cracked.

18 When shirring is used at the top of the sleeve cap- total shirring width must be centered over the shoulder seam. For example: if 3’’ total shirring is required then 1 ½’’ of it must be forward and backward of the shoulder seam.

SHOULDER PADS– Pads in unlined garments must be covered in a specified quality fabric unless otherwise noted. Must be centered over inside shoulder seam with the thickest edge of the pad aligned with the edge of armhole seam allowance. (Do not align with actual armhole seam stitching) Must be tacked with a minimum of two (¼’’ long) swing tacks. (Tack along inside shoulder seam allowance -1 tack at each end of pad).

SLEEVE HEADERS– Use either Purchased Felt or Custom Made Lining sleeve headers only when noted on the Tech Pack.

See the “Structured Woven Standards” section for more sleeve header details.

SMELL– Garments must not have a detectable odor.

SMOCKING– Elastic smocking stitch: 1. Use one of the following Multi-needle standards: TAJMAI TAIS KANSAI 2. Use ¼’’ spacing & 2:1 shirring ration unless specified otherwise on the Tech Pack. 3. Must be set thru 2 ply (layers) of fabric If smocking is intended to fully support/hold the garment on the body then elastic must be inserted in the top tunnel (Set the elastic in the 2nd tunnel from top edge if a ruffled top edge is required). Refer to the Tech Pack for required finished specs.

19 SNAPS– Must be attached through minimum of 2 layers of fabric (body & facing or body with re-enforcement patch set on underside). All snaps must stay closed during stress caused by normal wearing. (i.e. center front waist snap closures must stay closed during sitting & bending) Covering on covered snaps must not pull off or fray around the edges. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details. Hanging Snap options are as follows:

RIVETS/GROMMETS– Must be attached through minimum of 2 layers of fabric (body & facing or body with re-enforcement patch set on underside). Refer to “TRIMS” section for more details

THREADS– Must be colorfast. Only polyester core or 100% spun polyester thread is to be used throughout garment construction. Only use monofilament thread when specified by the Technical Designer. Use cotton wrapped poly core thread for all garment dyed items. Refer to the Tech Pack for the denier (tex #) specification. Recommended thread supplier: COATS

TRIMS– Trims & Trim Coverings - Must be securely attached following the manufacturer’s instructions. Must not become loose or fall off during normal use or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions.

Trim Appearance / Finish - Must be colorfast & without defects. Must not deteriorate (i.e. chip, scratch, rust, tarnish, corrode or fade) during normal use or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions. Must function properly considering the end use of product.

VENTS & SLITS– Always clean finish unless otherwise noted.

20 Use miter finish the inside bindings at the top edge of all bound slit openings. Must use appropriate SPI & interfacings as needed at the top edge point of bound slit openings to avoid frays and or holes. See the “Structured Woven Standards” section for more details.

WAISTBANDS– Refer to the “Structured Woven Standards” section for standard waistband construction sketches.

ZIPPERS– Must lie flat and smooth with no bulging, easing or puckering. The pull must slide smoothly along teeth. Must not get stuck on fabrics or trims: the body, facings & linings must be set minimum 1/16” from the teeth. For bulky or napped fabrics, the body, facings and linings must be minimum1/8” from the teeth. If setting zippers into “hairy” fabric, the length of the hairs should be trimmed so hairs will not get caught in the zipper. Zippers used in Fly closures must lock. Zippers from any recommended suppliers may be used. 1.YKK 2.Coats OPTI 3. Ideal

Zipper length measuring procedure Metal & Molded Plastic Zippers measure from top of zipper pull to bottom of stop. 2-way Separating Zipper measure top zipper pull to top zipper pull Invisible Zipper measure opened from top tooth stop to zipper pull at full opening. Tape length should be no more than 1 ½” longer than zipper

21 URBAN OUTFITTERS STRUCTURED WOVEN’S MINIMUM QUALITY AND CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS:

The intention of this manual is to set forth our key minimum quality construction standards to thereby enable all vendors to knowingly enter into a business agreement with UOI. All vendors involved with the development & manufacture of garments & accessories for UOI must carefully review this manual and ensure all products are made according to these minimum standards.

Urban Outfitters reserves the right to cancel, charge back or enforce repairs on any order if our minimum construction standards are not strictly followed.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

ADJUSTERS ...... 3 BARTACKS ...... 3 BEADS/SEQUINS ...... 3 BELTS ...... 3 BELT LOOPS ...... 4 BUTTONS...... 5 BUTTONHOLES ...... 6 COLLARS & LAPELS ...... 8 DARTS ...... 9 DRAWSTRINGS ...... 9 ELASTIC & RIB ...... 9 FABRIC & LINING ...... 10 FACINGS ...... 10 FILL (outerwear) ...... 11 FLY ...... 11 GARMENT DYED/PIGMENT DYED GARMENTS ...... 11 HANGER LOOPS ...... 11

1 HEMS/BANDS & CUFFS ...... 12 HEMS & EDGE FINISHES ...... 12 1. TURNBACK HEM FINISHES (UNLINED)...... 13 2. FACED HEM FINISHES (UNLINED) ...... 14 3. “TURNBACK & CLEAN FINISHED TO LINING” HEM FINISHES ...... 15 4. “FACED & CLEAN FINISHED TO LINING” HEM FINISHES ...... 15 5. “TURNBACK HEM WITH FREE HANGING LINING” HEM FINISHES ...... 16 6. “FACED HEM WITH FREE HANGING LINING” HEM FINISHES ...... 16 7. INSIDE BOUND EDGE FINISHES ...... 17 8. BOUND EDGE FINISHES ...... 17 9. TURNBACK CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED)...... 18 10. FACED CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED) ...... 18 11. TURNBACK CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (LINED) ...... 19 12. FACED CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (LINED) ...... 19 13. TURNBACK HEM / CUFF EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED) ...... 20 14. PURL MERROW AND RAW EDGE FINISHES ...... 21 15. POCKET OPENING EDGE FINISHES ...... 21 STANDARD CF/CB OR VENT FACING AND HEM JOIN OPTIONS ...... 22 HOOK FLEX ...... 23 HOOK & EYE ...... 23 INTERFACING ...... 24 1. FUSIBLE INTERFACING FOR POCKET SEAMS ...... 24 2. JACKET / COAT INTERFACING DETAILS ...... 25 3. FUSIBLE INTERFACING IN A TURNBACK HEM ...... 25 4. STRUCTURED WOVEN’S STANDARD INTERFACING OPTIONS ...... 26 5. STRUCTURED WOVEN’S SPECIALTY INTERFACING OPTIONS ...... 26 LABELS ...... 40 LINGERIE STRAP GUARDS ...... 40 LINING ...... 41 LOCKER LOOPS ...... 41 LOOPS ...... 42 NAP FABRICATIONS ...... 42 NEEDLE ...... 42 PACKING ...... 42 PATTERNED FABRIC ...... 42 PLACKETS ...... 43 PLEATS ...... 44 POCKETS ...... 45 1. WELT OR BESOM POCKET BAG ...... 46 2. WELT OR BESOM POCKET FACINGS ...... 46 3. POCKET OPENING EDGE FINISHES ...... 47 PRESSING ...... 47 RIBBON & GROSGRAIN ...... 47 SEAMS & TOP STITCHING ...... 47 1. Sructured Woven’s Standard Seam & Topstitch Requirements ...... 47 2. All Seams, Topstitching, Buttonholes & Bartacks ...... 50 3. STANDARD STRUCTURED WOVEN SEAM OPTIONS ...... 51 4. JACKET / COAT ARMHOLE SEAMS ...... 52 SHIRRING ...... 52 SHOULDER PADS...... 52 SLEEVE HEADERS ...... 53 SMELL ...... 54 SMOCKING ...... 54 SNAPS ...... 54 RIVETS/GROMMETS ...... 54 THREADS...... 54

2 TRIMS ...... 55 VENTS & SLITS ...... 56 STANDARD CF/CB OR VENT FACING AND HEM JOIN OPTIONS ...... 56 WAISTBANDS ...... 57 1. STRAIGHT “JEAN” CUT & SEW WAISTBAND ...... 57 2. CONTOURED “JEAN” CUT & SEW WAISTBAND ...... 57 3. CUT & SEW WAISTBAND CURTAINS WITH BINDING FINISH INSIDE ...... 58 4. CUT & SEW WAISTBAND CURTAINS WITH CLEAN FINISH INSIDE ...... 59 5. HOLLYWOOD WAIST CURTAINS WITH BOUND FINISH INSIDE (UNLINED) ...... 60 6. HOLLYWOOD WAIST CURTAINS WITH CLEAN FINISH INSIDE (UNLINED) ...... 61 7. INSET CUT & SEW WAISTBANDS (LINED) ...... 62 ELASTIC WAIST TUNNELS ...... 62 ZIPPERS ...... 63 ______

BARTACKS– Use at all stress points (i.e. top and bottom of pocket openings) as specified on Tech Pack. Use reinforcement behind all bar tacks on inside of the garment: Reinforcement may be one of the following: 1. patch of specified quality interfacing 2. garment facing 3. inside pocket bag Must be without broken, uneven, repaired or missing stitches. Bar tack SPI must not compromise strength of the garment. Body fabric must not tear or rip when stress is applied to the body fabric around bar tacks.

3 BELTS– Refer to the Tech Pack for required length, placement & construction requirements. Must be finished at both ends according to the specifications in the Tech Pack. When Tie Belts are used & no bow is required the belt should be tied in a square knot as sketch below shows:

BELT LOOPS– Refer to the Tech Pack for required length and placement

Cut & sew loops: 1. Must be clean finished & securely tacked. Any loose or hanging threads must be clipped. 2. Turned back (under) seam allowances (tails) at top and/or bottom must be trimmed to = maximum length of ¼’’ from fold edge. 3. Set waistband loops into bottom waistband seam unless specified otherwise.

Thread chain loops: 1. Create using 2 ply (strands) of thread & a minimum spi of 16 unless otherwise noted. 2. The thread denier (tex #) used to create the chain must compliment the weight of the body fabric. Refer to the Tech Pack for minimum denier specification. 3. Must support the weight of the coordinating belt without breaking the loop or causing damage to the garment. 4. Must be securely joined to the garment along a seam unless otherwise noted. 5. 1 or 2 point attachment may be used. Refer to the Tech Pack for specification. 6. See page 5 for sketches of standard thread chain options.

4 STW TC001 STW TC002 STW TC003

BUTTONS– Do not attach to a single ply. All buttons must be sewn through a minimum of 2 ply (layers) of fabric (i.e. body & facing or body with a re-enforcement patch set on underside).

Machine Stitched Buttons- 1. Use Lockstitch 304 Button sewer (this machine interlocks the needle thread with a bobbin thread so that it will not unravel) 2. Each hole gets a minimum of 4 passes (stitches) and must be knotted securely. “Reinforcement” buttons should be used inside / behind all functional front closure buttons on all outerwear garments unless specified otherwise on Tech Pack. Include 1 extra button for each quality used on the outside of the garment unless otherwise noted. Refer to the Tech Pack for required extra button bag quality & placement specifications. If stitching used to attach the buttons or stitch the buttonholes is contrast (different than the body color) then 1 yard of contrast color thread should be included in the extra button bag -- except if contrast color used is white or black. Delicate buttons must be wrapped prior to shipping as needed to prevent any damage to button during shipping. Do not use shell buttons. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details.

BUTTONHOLES– Do not attach to a single ply. All buttons must be sewn through a minimum of 3 ply (layers) of fabric (i.e. body, facing & interfacing or body with a re- enforcement patch set on underside). Buttonhole opening size must = Diameter of approved button plus the thickness of button (add an additional 1/8’’ to the buttonhole opening size when using shank buttons or thick fabrics.) Buttonhole opening size for “Full Ball” buttons must = Distance around ½ of the total ball plus 1/8’’. Buttonhole SPI must not compromise strength of the garment. Body fabric must not tear or rip when stress is applied to the body fabric around buttonholes. Must be without broken, uneven, repaired or missing stitches. All machine stitched buttonholes must be cut open (using sharp blade) & trimmed to ensure no raw or frayed fabric is visible; loose or hanging threads & interfacings must not be visible within the buttonhole opening. Must be correctly aligned and spaced for their size, location and end use (see sketches on page 7 and 8.) SPI & interfacings used for Bound Buttonhole openings must be appropriate to the fabric to avoid frays and or holes at all corners.

Single Breasted Standard Button & Buttonhole Placement Requirements:

7 Double Breasted Standard Button & Buttonhole Placement Requirements:

COLLARS & LAPELS– Under collars must NOT roll to the outside (become exposed). The seam along the outside collar edge must be hidden; seam must roll to the under side of the collar a minimum of 1/8’’ all around (see sketch below).

Points must not be bulky. Seam allowances must be trimmed & points must be fully pushed out.

8 DARTS– Darts on left & right sides of garment must have identical, size, shape and angle unless otherwise noted. Must not have dimples or bubbles at the dart apex (point). Ends must be securely knotted / backstitched. Knot must not create bulk visible on the outside of the garment. All hanging threads must be trimmed. For Vertical darts, press “intake” toward the center of the garment unless otherwise noted. For Horizontal or French darts, press “intake” toward the bottom opening. For all darts having a flat intake greater than 1 1/4’’: must trim seam allowance to 3/8’’, finish edge & press as specified in the Tech Pack unless otherwise noted.

9 FABRIC & LINING– Must pass all required performance tests. No fabric defects or shading within the garment allowed. Must not have repair to body, lining fabric or component parts. Must not have miscellaneous weaving defects. Must not break in print pattern, have poor print registration or dye streak. Must not have bow in fabric more than ½” in any 6” horizontal measurement or more than 1” over full body width. Must not have skewing (torque) in fabric more than 5% (on the length). Must not have substitutions, poor color match or print pattern as compared to master swatches. When different fabrics are combined within a garment: must ensure differential shrinkage does not exceed 2% unless otherwise noted.

Must have under stitching (set no closer than 1/16’’ away from the seam). Must not ripple, pucker or toque. Must be securely tacked to body at all seams unless otherwise noted. Must be clean finished to the lining (whenever lining is used) unless otherwise noted. If there is no lining, the free edge of the facing must be finished with an appropriate seam finish to prevent raveling such as with a merrow (ISO#504), clean finish turn-back or bound finish. Refer to the Tech Pack for specification.

10 FILL (outerwear)– Must be attached to shell fabric so that it will not move or bunch. It must be consistent in feel/thickness thru out the body. Fill must not come through to the shell fabric intended to encase it. Fill should be trimmed out of all seam & hem allowances to reduce bulk.

FLY– All raw edges must be finished to prevent raveling such as with a merrow (ISO# 504), clean finish turn-back or bound finish. Refer to the Tech Pack for specification. The WB closure must be aligned/centered above the zipper teeth. The teeth must be completely hidden by the fly overlap when stress is applied to the WB & fly closure. (Minimum 1/8’’ overlap required). For button fly closures: the CF seam must not become exposed when buttons are fastened /closed & stress is applied.

HANGER LOOPS– Required for all strapless garments or garments with wide necklines over 10”. Refer to the Tech Pack for the required length, make and placement. Ends joined to the garment must be finished. Refer to the “RIBBONS & GROSGRAIN’’ section for more details. Quality & attachment method of loop must support the weight of the garment without causing damage to the garment or to the loop. Quality must not deteriorate due to normal use or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care.

Horizontal Hanger Loops: When horizontal hanger loops are required for pants (or skirts with CF or CB opening), the standard required size is ½’’ x 3’’ & the standard required placement is 1’’ forward of the side seam & centered on the waistband height unless otherwise noted on the Tech Pack. (see sketch on page 11)

HEMS/BANDS & CUFFS - Finish circular and clean finish unless otherwise noted.

HEMS & EDGE FINISHES – Must be smooth and flat with no pulling, ripples, puckers, pleats or skewing (torque). Hemline must be equal distance to the floor all around when worn unless garment design requires an uneven hemline. Thread covered edges (i. e. purl merrow) must be smooth, well covered and free from fray or hanging thread. Stitching along edges must not pull off or become free from fabric during normal wear or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care. Top stitching on hems must be set equal distance from the edge / bottom opening all around. (Maximum tolerance for hem stitch height allows no more than 1/8’’ variance within a span of 6’’ for hems 1’’ or over. Maximum tolerance for hem stitch height allows no more than 1/16’’ variance within a span of 6’’ for hems under 1’’). Multi-needle top stitching tension must be properly set to prevent fabric “roping” between rows. Blind stitching tension & depth of bite must be properly adjusted to ensure stitches are hidden on the outside of the garment. Blind stitching must be secure; it must not fall out during normal garment use or after garment is cleaned according to recommended care instructions.(Refer to our separate Knits, Soft Woven’s or Structured Woven’s construction standards sections for blind stitching SPI requirement.) Sleeves and bottom openings must be hemmed circular so that no seam allowances show. Stay stitching must be used if raw cut edges are requested unless specified otherwise. Refer to the Tech Pack for required placement.

TURNBACK HEM FINISHES (UNLINED):

13 FACED HEM FINISHES (UNLINED):

“TURNBACK & CLEAN FINISHED TO LINING” HEM FINISHES:

“FACED & CLEAN FINISHED TO LINING” HEM FINISHES:

15 “TURNBACK HEM WITH FREE HANGING LINING” HEM FINISHES:

“FACED HEM WITH FREE HANGING LINING” HEM FINISHES:

INSIDE BOUND EDGE FINISHES:

BOUND EDGE FINISHES:

17 TURNBACK CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED):

FACED CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED):

18 TURNBACK CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (LINED):

FACED CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (LINED):

19 TURNBACK HEM / CUFF EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED):

20 PURL MERROW AND RAW EDGE FINISHES:

POCKET OPENING EDGE FINISHES:

21 STANDARD CF/CB OR VENT FACING AND HEM JOIN OPTIONS:

Refer to the Tech Pack for all facing & hem requirements.

22 HOOK FLEX – The hook must align with the bar properly to ensure all garment edges & seams (which are held together with the hook & bar) are aligned & level. Do not set through single ply. Must be attached through a minimum of 2 layers of fabric (i.e. body & facing or body with re-enforcement patch set on underside). Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details

HOOK & EYE Attach using needle threaded with 2 ply (strands); each hole gets 4 passes (stitches), wrap shank minimum of 2 times, double knot securely. Caution: DO NOT thread needle with more than 2 ply. The hook must align with the eye properly to ensure all garment edges & seams (which are held together with the hook & eye) are aligned & level.

Refer to the “BELT LOOPS” section for thread chain standards if thread chain/loop “eyes” are used. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details.

23 INTERFACING – Refer to page 26 for all Structured Woven standard interfacing specifications. These pre-approved PCC quality interfacings must be used unless otherwise noted. The Tech Dept. must be contacted for permission prior to using any recommended substitute interfacing quality. Must be securely attached following manufacturer’s instructions. Must not become loose or fall off during normal use or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions. Must be used on the inside ply of all collars, lapels, neckbands, cuffs, plackets, waistbands, facings, & tailored hems unless otherwise noted. Must be smooth and flat without bubbling or puckering. Must not pill. Must be compatible with shell fabric in weight and shrinkage standards. Must not show through to right side of garment. Care requirements of the interfacing must be compatible with those of the garment fabric. Heavy interfacings should not be caught in seam unless specified otherwise. Woven interfacings must be cut on the same grain as the garment piece it is attached to & should be caught in the seams & trimmed to end max 1/8’’ past the seam line. Use interfacing in any areas requiring shape, body, support and reinforcement, and where seam impressions may be a problem.

FUSIBLE INTERFACING FOR POCKET SEAMS:

24 JACKET / COAT INTERFACING DETAILS:

FUSIBLE INTERFACING IN A TURNBACK HEM:

25 STRUCTURED WOVEN’S STANDARD INTERFACING OPTIONS: (refer to the Tech Pack for specification)

1. Light Weight Fusible Tricot Knit = PCC style # KF121

2. Mid Weight Fusible Tricot Knit = PCC style # KF789

3. Heavy Weight Fusible Tricot Knit = PCC style # KF501

4. Light Weight Fusible Non-Woven = PCC style # KF100

5. Mid Weight Fusible Non-Woven = PCC style # KF230

6. Heavy Weight Fusible Non-Woven = PCC style# KF240

7. Fusible Armhole Seam Tape = PCC style # TP500 or TP3000

8. Fusible Seam Tape (for shoulder seams; lapel roll lines ect.), = PCC style # TP4000, TP5000 or TP6000

9. Fusible Waist Band Seam Tape = PCC style # TP5000

STRUCTURED WOVEN’S SPECIALTY INTERFACING OPTIONS: (refer to the Tech Pack for specification)

1. Light Weight Fusible Weft Inserted Knit = PCC style # 1926 (do not use on garment washed items)

2. Mid Weight Fusible Weft Inserted Knit = PCC style # 1905 (do not use on garment washed items)

3. Heavy Weight Fusible Weft Inserted Knit = PCC style # 3636 (do not use on garment washed items)

39 LABELS– Must be neatly and securely attached, according to all Urban Outfitters standards as well as all details listed in the Tech Pack. Thread color used to attach the label must match the label color unless otherwise noted. If thread used to attach the label will be visible on the outside of the garment then the outside thread color must match the outside body color unless otherwise noted.

Basic Lingerie Strap Guard Options:

STW LSG 001 STW LSG 002

40 LINING– Must not hang below the outside finished hemline; must finish a minimum of ½” above the outside finished hemline. Refer to the tech pack for exact specification. Must allow sufficient ease for body movement and differential shrinkage. Lining fit must conform to outside layer. Must be tacked to the body seam allowance at the shoulder and at the under arm. Free hanging lining must be joined to the body in at least 1 location (along a seam) using thread chain “swing tacks” with minimum 1’’ length. Swing tacks must not hang below the finished hem level. Seams must be finished so that there are no raw edges. Lining should be attached (clean finished) to the garment facings & hems whenever possible to ensure the appearance of the inside of the garment is neat and clean. Jacket/Coat linings must have 1’’ deep ease pleat at center back which should be stitched closed for 1 ½’’ from the center back neck seam unless otherwise noted.

LOCKER LOOPS– Quality & attachment method of loop must support the garment weight without causing damage to the garment or loop. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details if trim is chosen to create loop. Refer to the “RIBBON & GROSGRAIN” section if ribbon or grosgrain trim is chosen to create loops. Use on all casual styled jackets & outerwear unless otherwise noted. Refer to the Tech Pack for the required quality & exact specifications. Standard locker loop placement for all structured casual jackets & outerwear is as follows:

Use the above specifications unless otherwise noted in the Tech Pack.

41 LOOPS– Refer to the “TRIMS” section if trim is chosen to create loops. Refer to the “RIBBON & GROSGRAIN” section if ribbon or grosgrain trim is chosen to create loops. If loops are used for button closure, the opening size within the loop must be appropriate to the size of the button. Refer to the “BUTTONHOLES” section for details. Must be securely set into a seam (i.e. between the body & facing or body & lining layers). Loops must not pull out of seam during normal use or when garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions.

NAP FABRICATIONS– All pieces of a single garment must be cut with the nap running in the same direction unless specified otherwise. Cut all pieces “Nap Up” unless specified otherwise. Use a needle board or “self” fabric press cloth when pressing to avoid damage to the nap. Must ensure packing & shipping method will not crush or damage nap in any way.

NEEDLE– Needle size and type must be applicable to the operation and fabrication. (i. e. ballpoint needles must be used in knits) Routine needle changes are required during production to avoid possible fabric damages.

PACKING Refer to the Tech Pack for all product specific requirements. Elevated trims (i.e. flower brooches) must be supported / protected as needed to prevent crushing or damage during shipping. Heavy weight packing tissue must be under all collars & lapels on all jackets & outerwear unless otherwise noted. Tissue must be twisted to form a minimum ¾’’ diameter log. The log ends must be taped together to ensure log will remain securely in place under the collar & lapel during shipping. Sleeves must be stuffed with tissue as needed to prevent over arm creases. (must avoid creases created by packing pressure during shipping).

PATTERNED FABRIC Must match all stripes, plaids or prints along all possible seams particularly along the center front and center back seam lines (or rises for pants) unless otherwise noted. Patterns must be balanced on all collars, sleeves, cuffs and pocket pairs.

42 PLACKETS– Always clean finish unless otherwise noted. Buttonhole stitching must not cross over any placket topstitching or seam line. Refer to the “INTERFACINGS” section for more details.

Standard Men’s Under-lap & Women’s Over-lap Construction Options:

Standard Men’s Over-lap & Women’s Under-lap Construction Options:

43 PLEATS– Knife pleats in the hems of skirts & coats should be tacked closed with loose x tack unless otherwise noted.

Standard Pleat Options:

44 POCKETS– Pocket bags must be finished so that there are no raw edges. Refer to the tech pack for the required finishing method. Internal pocket bags must not extend below the outside finished hem level. Pockets must be evenly aligned on left & right sides of the garment unless specified otherwise. Any pocket placement markings must not be visible. Pockets must lay flat without pulling, twisting or rolling. Angled & curved shape pocket openings must lay smooth & flat. Must use appropriate reinforcement inside along seam as needed to prevent stretching & gapping. (see sketches on page 24 for details) Pocket facings must not be set into a clean finished bag side seam in order to avoid excess bulk. (see sketch on page 46 for details) Topstitching on pockets must be smooth & symmetrical unless otherwise noted. Hidden (interior) welt or besom chest pockets (used for jackets & outerwear) should not cross over the seam between the facing & lining unless otherwise noted. (Hidden chest pockets must be fully set within either the facing or lining to reduce cost). Horizontally or Diagonally set welt or besom pockets should be basted (temporarily sewn) closed 1 ½’’ (centered on pocket opening) using maximum 5 SPI unless otherwise noted. (The basting stitches must not be locked & should be easily removable by customer without causing damage to the fabric. The basting stitches should not prevent dye from adhering to facing fabric) Pocket bags on front “J” style (jean); trouser style or slant style pockets must be secured into the Center Front fly edge unless otherwise noted-(see sketches below)

1. STANDARD REQUIREMENT: 2. USE ONLY WHEN SPECIFIED

45 WELT OR BESOM POCKET BAG:

For Pants & Skirts: Welt or Besom Pocket bags must always be joined to the bottom of the waist band or waist facing unless specified otherwise on the Tech Pack.

WELT OR BESOM POCKET FACINGS: The self facings / backings used behind welt pocket or besom pocket openings must not fold back (must not extend into the fold) at the side pocket bag edges (when clean finished seams are required). (see sketch below)

46 POCKET OPENING EDGE FINISHES:

PRESSING– Pressing instructions will be specific to the Brand and/or style. Refer to the Tech Pack for details. A “press cloth” should be placed between the iron and the garment or between the seam allowance & the garment as needed to prevent damage to the fabric (i.e. shine or ridges at seam allowance edges.) Do not press a crease into the center of any sleeve or pant leg unless noted otherwise on the Tech Pack. Refer to the “NAP FABRICIATIONS” section for more pressing details.

SEAMS & TOP STITCHING– All products must be sewn using the specified number of “stitches per inch”.

47 Structured Woven’s Standard Seam & Topstitch Requirements:

ISO#101: BASTING STITCH 4-6 SPI

ISO#103: SINGLE THREAD BLINDSTITCH 3.5-4 SPI

ISO#301: LOCKSTITCH (for Seams) *most common of all stitches 10-12 SPI

ISO#301: LOCKSTITCH (for Topstitching) 7-9 SPI (see tech pack for exact spi specification)

ISO#304: ZIGZAG LOCKSTITCH 8 CYCLES PER INCH 1/8’’ 3/16’’ or ¼’’ THROW (width) (will be specified on tech pack)

ISO#304: BUTTONSEW (4 hole) 16 per button

ISO#304: BUTTONHOLE (1/2’’) 85-90 total per buttonhole

ISO#304: BARTACK (1/4’’) 24-28 PER TACK

ISO#401: CHAINSTITCH 10-12 SPI

ISO#406: 2 NEEDLE BOTTOM COVERSTITCH 14-16 SPI

ISO#407: 3 NEEDLE COTTOM COVERSTITCH 14-16 SPI

ISO#408: 2 NEEDLE CHAINSTITCH WITH COVER THREAD 12-14 SPI

ISO#502: PURL MERROW 22-26 SPI

ISO#503: 2 THREAD OVEREDGE *ALSO USED FOR BLINDSTITCHING AND PULLED MERROW STITCH 12-14 SPI

ISO#504: 3 THREAD OVEREDGE

48 (MERROW FINISH) *most common over edge stitch 12-14 SPI

ISO#512: MOCK SAFETY STITCH 12-14 SPI

ISO#516: 5 THREAD SAFETY STITCH (3/8’’ SAFETY SEAM) *standard application for all seams 12-14 SPI

ISO#602: 2 NEEDLE 4 THREAD COVERSTITCH 14-16 SPI

***ALL SPI ARE STANDARD REQUIREMENTS; USE UNLESS OTHERWISE REQUESTED IN TECH PACK

49 All Seams, Topstitching, Buttonholes & Bartacks- Must be without broken, uneven, repaired or missing stitches. Tension must be properly set to avoid puckers, unintentional “zig zag” stitch line appearance, pleats, roping & torque. Stitching should be evenly spaced from the seam edge for the entire length of the seam. Must be smooth & flat with no puckers or pulls unless design dictates otherwise. Do not use raw edges unless specified otherwise. Must not have conspicuous seam repair. Must ensure natural stretch of fabric is not restricted on all seams with stretch unless specified otherwise. For Pants– Join the rises in the round after joining the inseams unless flat fell seams are required or noted otherwise within the Tech Pack. All seaming & topstitching must be locked by sewing it into a seam or hem or by tacking or backstitching. Refer to “STITCHES” section for more details. All inward curved seam allowances should be clipped & all outward seams should be notched as needed unless otherwise noted. (see sketches below)

All corners should be reinforced with interfacing & double stitched using 4 to 6 more SPI than required for standard seaming. (see sketches)

50 STANDARD STRUCTURED WOVEN SEAM OPTIONS:

51 JACKET / COAT ARMHOLE SEAMS–

Reinforce the armhole seam with a 2nd row of stitching set maximum 1/16’’ from the actual seam line between the front & back notches along the underarm. (see sketch below:

Stabilize the armhole seam with fusible strips to prevent stretching. (refer to page 25 for details) Armhole seam allowance must not exceed 3/8’’ unless otherwise noted For bulky fabrics: armhole seam allowance must be trimmed to = ¼’’ between notches as sketch above shows.

SHIRRING– Fullness must be evenly distributed. Stitching use to create shirring must be cracked & must not be visible on the outside. When shirring is used at the top of the sleeve cap- total shirring width must be centered over the shoulder seam. For example: if 3’’ total shirring is required then 1 ½’’ of it must be forward and backward of the shoulder seam.

SHOULDER PADS– Pads in unlined garments must be covered in a specified quality fabric unless otherwise noted. Must be centered over inside shoulder seam with the thickest edge of the pad aligned with the cut edge of the armhole seam allowance. (Do not align with actual armhole seam stitching.) Must be tacked with a minimum of two (¼’’ long) swing tacks. (tack along inside shoulder seam allowance --1 tack at each end of pad).

52 SLEEVE HEADERS– Use either Purchased Felt or Custom Made Lining sleeve headers only when noted on the Tech Pack. Purchased Options are: 1. Helsa 905439W: lightweight 2. Helsa U-1287: mid to heavy weight 3. Helsa 886670: mid to heavy weight 4. Helsa 886679: heavy weight

Standard “Custom Made” Sleeve Head Construction:

53 SMELL– Garments must not have a detectable odor.

SMOCKING– Elastic smocking stitch: 1. Use one of the following Multi-needle standards: TAJMAI TAIS KANSAI 2. Use ¼’’ spacing & 2:1 shirring ration unless specified otherwise on the the Tech Pack. 3. Must be set thru 2 ply (layers) of fabric If smocking is intended to fully support/hold the garment on the body then elastic must be inserted in the top tunnel (Set the elastic in the 2nd tunnel from top edge if a ruffled top edge is required). Refer to the Tech Pack for required finished specs.

SNAPS– Must be attached through minimum of 2 layers of fabric (body & facing or body with re-enforcement patch set on underside). All snaps must stay closed during stress caused by normal wearing. (i.e. center front waist snap closures must stay closed during sitting & bending) Covering on covered snaps must not pull off or fray around the edges. Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details. Hanging Snap standard options are as follows:

STW HS 001 STW HS 002

RIVETS/GROMMETS– Must be attached through minimum of 2 layers of fabric (body & facing or body with re-enforcement patch set on underside). Refer to the “TRIMS” section for more details.

54 TRIMS– Trims & Trim Coverings - Must be securely attached following the manufacturer’s instructions. Must not become loose or fall off during normal use or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions.

Trim Appearance / Finish - Must be colorfast & without defects. Must not deteriorate (i. e. chip, scratch, rust, tarnish, corrode or fade) during normal use or after garment is cleaned according to the recommended care instructions. Must function properly considering the end use of product.

FOR TRIM SET INTO THE SEAM BETWEEN THE FACING & LINING ON JACKETS/COATS:

1. When piping (flat or filled) or lace trim is inserted into the seam between the facing & lining, the trim edge must be miter finished at the finished hem level (see sketches 1&3 below) unless otherwise noted on the tech pack. 2. When pleated trim is inserted into the seam between the facing & lining, the trim edge must finish ¼’’ above the finished hem level (see sketch 2 below) unless otherwise noted on the tech pack.

1. PIPING TRIM 2. PLEATED TRIM

3. LACE TRIM

55 VENTS & SLITS– Always clean finish unless otherwise noted. Use miter finish the inside bindings at the top edge of all bound slit openings. Must use appropriate SPI & interfacings as needed at the top edge point of bound slit openings to avoid frays and or holes.

STANDARD CF/CB OR VENT FACING AND HEM JOIN OPTIONS: Refer to the Tech Pack for all facing & hem requirements.

56 WAISTBANDS–

STRAIGHT “JEAN” CUT & SEW WAISTBAND:

CONTOURED “JEAN” CUT & SEW WAISTBAND:

57 CUT & SEW WAISTBAND CURTAINS WITH BINDING FINISH INSIDE:

58 CUT & SEW WAISTBAND CURTAINS WITH CLEAN FINISH INSIDE:

59 HOLLYWOOD WAIST CURTAINS WITH BOUND FINISH INSIDE (UNLINED):

60 HOLLYWOOD WAIST CURTAINS WITH CLEAN FINISH INSIDE (UNLINED):

61 INSET CUT & SEW WAISTBANDS (LINED):

ELASTIC WAIST TUNNELS:

ZIPPERS– Must lie flat and smooth with no bulging, easing or puckering. The pull must slide smoothly along teeth. Must not get stuck on fabrics or trims: the body, facings & linings must be set minimum 1/16” from the teeth. For bulky or napped fabrics, the body, facings and linings must be minimum1/8” from the teeth. If setting zippers into “hairy” fabric, the length of the hairs should be trimmed so hairs will not get caught in the zipper. Zippers used in Fly closures must lock. Use YKK zippers. If YKK is not available then the following substitute suppliers may be used: 1. Valiant 2. Union

63 SOFT WOVEN CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Table of Contents:

BINDINGS ...... 2 BONING ...... 2 DART - SHAPING ...... 3 DARTS – COMMON BODICE CORRECTIONS ...... 4 EASE ...... 5 EDGE FINISHES ...... 5 ELASTIC ...... 6 FABRIC ...... 7 HANGER LOOPS ...... 8 HANGER LOOPS ON STRAPLESS DRESSES AND TOPS ...... 8 HEMS ...... 10 LININGS ...... 10 PICOT & PICKSTITCH ...... 10 RUFFLES ...... 10 SEAMS & TOPSTITCH ...... 11 SEAMS ...... 11 SEAM JOINING ...... 13 SMOCKING ...... 14 STRAPS ...... 15 WAISTBAND INSERTS ON TOPS AND DRESSES ...... 16 WAISTBAND PATTERN SHAPE ...... 18 ZIPPERS – APPLICATION FOR BIAS GARMENTS ...... 19 ZIPPERS - INVISIBLE ...... 19 FUSE ...... 21

BINDINGS: 1. Straight seams - cut binding on straight grain unless the Technician advises otherwise. 2. Curved seams – cut binding on bias unless the Technician advises otherwise.

BONING:

2 DART - SHAPING:

3 DARTS – COMMON BODICE CORRECTIONS:

4 EASE: 1. Skirts always need to be ½” to ¾” bigger total, depending on the fabric at the waistband for ease. This helps with the curve shape on the high hip, so it is not so flat. 2. Bodice always needs 1/2” to 1” total ease into seam or waistband. This helps with the bust fullness. Bodice seam allowance should be pressed up unless clean finished with waistband.

EDGE FINISHES:

E001: CUT FAGGOTING

E002: 3/8” CLEAN FINISHED HEM WITH TRIM SET ON TOP AT EDGE (STANDARD FOR ANTHROPOLOGIE LINED GARMENTS WITH TRIM)

FACE SIDE INSIDE

5 ELASTIC : 1. Sandwich elastic with merrow where applicable instead of tunneling (ex: waist seams & bottom of smocking).

EL001: Elastic Tunneled Inside Seam

EL002: Elastic Set On Top Of Seam

EL003: Elastic Merrowed Into Seam

ELASTIC WITH CASING ON INSIDE OF GARMENT

Outside View Inside View

FABRIC: ***ALL FABRIC MUST BE TESTED FOR SEAM SLIPPAGE AT SAMPLING STAGE AND UPON RECEIPT OF BULK FABRIC. IF SEAM SLIPPAGE IS FOUND, ALL SEAMS MUST BE FUSED WITH DTM TRICOT FUSIBLE.

7 HANGER LOOPS:

HANGER LOOPS ON STRAPLESS DRESSES AND TOPS:

9 STRAPLESS GARMENTS: HANGER LOOPS WITH DETACHABLE STRAPS

HEMS BABY HEM: 1/16” FOR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS 1/8” FOR HEAVY WEIGHT FABRIC. ***BABY HEM SHOULD NEVER BE MORE THAN 1/8”

LININGS: 1. Add CB seam to all linings on skirts & skirt part of dresses. If the fabric is sheer make a French seam and seam is toward body. Self skirts that have shirring or multiple pleats: lining should have minimal fullness. Shirring 1 ¼:1 ratio Pleats should be reduced to 1 or 2 on each side of CF & CB Lining sweeps should be NO MORE than 34” flat on sample size.

PICOT & PICKSTITCH : 1. Should be made by machine unless the Technician advises otherwise.

RUFFLES: 1. Cut on straight grain, no bias unless the Technician advises otherwise.

10 SEAMS & TOPSTITCH: ISO#103: SINGLE THREAD BLINDSTITCH 3.5-4 SPI ISO#301: SINGLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH 10-12 SPI ISO#304: ZIGZAG *8 CYCLES PER INCH ISO#304: BUTTONSEW (4 hole) 16 per button ISO#304: BUTTONHOLE (1/2’’) 85-90 total per buttonhole ISO#304: BARTACK (1/4’’) 24-28 PER TACK ISO#401: CHAINSTITCH 10-12 SPI ISO#502: PURL MERROW 30-34 SPI ISO#504: COMMON OVEREDGE 12-14 SPI ISO#516: 5 THREAD SAFETY STITCH *STANDARD APPLICATION FOR ALL SAFETY SEAMS 12-14 SPI

***ALL SPI ARE STANDARD REQUIREMENT, UNLESS OTHERWISE REQUESTED IN TECH PACK

SEAMS:

½” MERROW PRESS OPEN

3/8” SAFETY SEAM

¼” FRENCH SEAM

¼” PIN HEM

½” PRESS OPEN WITH 3/16” BINDING

3/8” FLAT FELLEDWITH ¼” DN TS

FUSED SEAM

RAW CUT LAPPED SEAM

SEAM JOINING:

SMOCKING:

***ALL SMOCKED BACK OF GARMENTS MUST HAVE WOVEN ELASTIC SET IN TOP EDGE OF FOLD, OR IF THERE IS A RUFFLE AT THE TOP, BETWEEN TOP 2 ROWS OF SMOCKING.

***SMOCKING THAT IS ATTACHED TO A SEAM THAT SHOULD STRETCH WITH SMOCKING, SHOULD HAVE ELASTIC SET IN SEAM

S001: ELASTIC SMOCKING WITH CHAINSTITCH BACK

S002: ELASTIC SMOCKING STITCH *MULTINEEDLE (TAJMAI, TAIS, KANSAI)

STRAPS :

1. Cut on straight grain unless the Technician advises otherwise.

ANTHROPOLOGIE DETATCHABLE STRAPS: 1. Always set at princess seams. a. Set ½” from top edge and tack. 2. If there are no princess seams, set: a. Front strap distance 9 ½”. Grade distance ¼” per size. b. Back strap distance 7 ½” (If no smocking) & 6 ½” (If there is smocking at back). Grade distance ¼” per size.

Fold of loop tacked down. Fold of loop 3/8” from top finished edge. Hardware should not extend past edge.

WAISTBAND CLOSURES:

WAISTBAND INSERTS ON TOPS AND DRESSES: MUST BE SEWN CLOSED AT TOP AND BOTTOM

17 WAISTBAND PATTERN SHAPE:

18 ZIPPERS – APPLICATION FOR BIAS GARMENTS:

ZIPPERS - INVISIBLE:

MUST BE CLEAN FINISHED WITH BINDING AT TOP AND BOTTOM EDGE OF ZIPPER

TO TOP EDGE: MUST HAVE HAND SEWN HOOK AND EYE AT TOP EDGE

STOPS 1” FROM TOP EDGE: BUT BE TACKED AT TOP OF ZIPPER

FUSE:

*WE HAVE SELECTED FUSE OPTIONS FOR SOFT WOVENS: LIGHT WEIGHT, MEDIUM WEIGHT AND HEAVY WEIGHT. THE PCC INFORMATION SHEET FOR EACH WEIGHT IS ATTACHED. ALL SPECIFICATIONS MUST BE FOLLOWED.

*WHITE FUSE SHOULD ONLY BE USED ON WHITE FABRICS. NATURAL AND BLACK SHOULD BE USED TO CLOSEST MATCHING COLOR.

*DTM FUSE SHOULD BE USED ALL ANY TRANSPARENT FABRICS AND FUSED SEAMS

SOFT WOVEN’S STANDARD INTERFACING OPTIONS: (refer to the Tech Pack for specification)

Light Weight Fusible Tricot Knit = PCC style # KF121

Mid Weight Fusible Tricot Knit = PCC style # KF789

Heavy Weight Fusible Tricot Knit = PCC style # KF501

Lightweight Fusible Stretch Woven Option = PCC style # PX313

* comes in colors * good choice for fusible strips when having seam slippage

Light Weight Fusible Non-Woven = PCC style # KF100

Mid Weight Fusible Non-Woven = PCC style # KF230

Heavy Weight Fusible Non-Woven = PCC style# KF240

URBAN OUTFITTERS SOFT WOVEN CONSTRUCTION CODES & SKETCHES

1 STANDARD SEAM CONSTRUCTION:

2 TURNBACK HEM FINISHES:

SH001 SH002 SH003 SH004

SH005 SH006 SH007 SH008 TURNBACK: AS TECH ADVISE

INSIDE HEM

OUTSIDE HEM

1/16"

3 FACED HEM FINISHES:

SH009 SH010 SH0011 SH0012

SH0013STWH030 SH0014 SH0015 SH0016 FACED: SEAM TAPE FINISH & BLIND STITCH

1/4'' seam tape

INSIDE HEM

OUTSIDE HEM

TURNBACK & CLEAN FINISHED TO LINING HEM FINISHES:

SH017 SH018

FACED & CLEAN FINISHED TO LINING HEM FINISHES:

SH019 SH020

5 TURNBACK HEM WITH FREE HANGING LINING HEM FINISHES:

SFWH020 SH021 SFWH021 SH022 SFWH022 SH023 SFWH023 SH024

1/4" 1/4" 1/4" 1/4"

FACED HEM WITH FREE HANGING LINING HEM FINISHES:

SFWH024 SH025 SFWH025 SH026 SFWH026 SH027 SFWH027 SH028

1/4"

1/4" 1/4" 1/4"

MERROW FINISHES:

SM001 SM002 MERROW FINISH PURL MERROW ISO #514 ISO #502 (30-40 SPI)

RAW EDGE FINISHES:

SR001 SR002 SR003 RAW EDGE W/ TURNBACK: BIAS BOUND W/ STAYSTITCH MERROW FINISH, SINGLE NEEDLE W/ TOP STITCH & TOPSTITCH & RAW CUT RAW CUT EDGE

INSIDE HEM INSIDE HEM

OUTSIDE OUTSIDE HEM HEM

7 INSIDE BOUND EDGE FINISHES:

SE001 SE002 SE003 SE004

BOUND EDGE FINISHES:

SE005 SE006

8 TURNBACK CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED):

SCE001 SCE002

FACED CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (UNLINED):

SCE003 SCE004

9 TURNBACK CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (LINED):

SCE005 SCE006

FACED CUFF / BAND EDGE FINISHES (LINED):

SCE007 SCE008

10 POCKET OPENING EDGE FINISHES:

SP001 SP002 SP003

PLACKET FINISHES:

SPL001 SPL002 SPL003 SPL004

SPL005 SPL006 SPL007 SPL008 EXPOSED RAW EDGE

SPL009 SPL010 SPL011

STANDARD CF/CB OR VENT FACING AND HEM JOIN OPTIONS:

Refer to the Tech Pack for all facing & hem requirements.

12 WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTIONS:

SWB001 SWB002 SWB003 SWB004 SWB005 SWB006 STRAIGHT CUT: STRAIGHT CUT: STRAIGHT CUT: CONTOURED; CONTOURED; CONTOURED; FOLDBACK & CLEAN FOLDBACK WITH 3/16" FOLDBACK & CLEAN FACED &CLEAN FACED WITH 3/16" FACED WITH LINING FINISH WITH BOUND FINISH & FINISH WITH LINING FINISHED WITH BOUND FINISH & ATTACHED & TOPSTITCH TOPSTITCH ATTACHED & TOPSTITCH TOPSTITCH TOPSTITCH TOPSTITCH

INSIDE INSIDE INSIDE INSIDE INSIDE INSIDE WAIST WAIST WAIST WAIST WAIST WAIST BAND BAND BAND BAND BAND BAND

OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE WAIST WAIST WAIST WAIST WAIST WAIST BAND BAND BAND BAND BAND BAND

SWB007 SWB008 SWB009 SWB010 SWB011 SWB012 HOLLYWOOD WST: HOLLYWOOD WST: HOLLYWOOD WST: STRAIGHT CUT: CONTOURED: EXPOSED ELASTIC: FACED: FACED: FACED: FOLDBACK & CLEAN FACED; CLEAN LAPPED ONTO 1 PIECE 1 PIECE 1 PIECE FINISH TUNNEL WITH FINISH TUNNEL MERROW EDGE & CONTOURED FACING CONTOURED FACING CONTOURED FACING TOPSTITCH; WITH TOPSTITCH: DOUBLE NEEDLE WITH CLEAN FINISH WITH 3/16'' BOUND WITH LINING ATTACH ELASTIC INSIDE ELASTIC INSIDE TOPSTITCH FINISH

INSIDE

ELASTIC WAIST INSIDE

ELASTIC TUNNEL WAIST ELASTIC TUNNEL INSIDE INSIDE INSIDE WB WB WB INSIDE

OUTSIDE OUTSIDE WAIST WAIST BAND BAND

ELASTIC

OUTSIDE

SWB013 SWB014 EXPOSED ELASTIC: STRAIGHT CUT: INSIDE & OUTSIDE SAFETY FINISH SEAM PLYS CLEAN FINISH TO ELASTIC

INSIDE WAIST

ELASTIC BAND

INSIDE

OUTSIDE WAIST

ELASTIC BAND

OUTSIDE

13 EXAMPLE:

* SEAMS = 3/16" FRENCH SEAMS

* FOLLOW SENT O/S ONLY AS ADVISED

NECKBAND & ARMHOLE BAND = *SCE003 *Follow o/s for overlap detail & direction at shoulder *Decorative stitch as design advise *NO SHOULDER SEAMS

Shirring Ratio =1 3/4" : 1"

SIDE PANEL= *No sideseam

Shirring Ratio =1 3/4" : 1"

Cut Circular

HEM= *1/4" SH008

14 KNIT CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Table of Contents: TOPSTITCH & SEAMS: ...... 1 HEMS: ...... 2 EDGE FINISHES ...... 4 SMOCKING & SHIRRING ...... 11 ELASTIC ...... 13 BUTTONS ...... 15 SNAPS AND RIVETS ...... 15 FUSE ...... 15

TOPSTITCH & SEAMS: ISO#304: ZIGZAG *8 CYCLES PER INCH ISO#401: CHAINSTITCH *POLY PUFF THREAD S/B USED ON THE LOOPER 10-12 SPI ISO#404: ZIGZAG CHAINSITCH 10-12 SPI ISO#406: 2 NEEDLE BOTTOM COVERSTITCH 14-16 SPI ISO#407: 3 NEEDLE COTTOM COVERSTITCH 14-16 SPI ISO#408: 2 NEEDLE CHAINSTITCH WITH COVER THREAD 12-14 SPI ISO#502: PURL MERROW 22-26 SPI ISO#503: 2 THREAD OVEREDGE *ALSO USED FOR BLINDSTITCHING AND PULLED MERROW STITCH 12-14 SPI ISO#504: 3 THREAD OVEREDGE (COMMON) 12-14 SPI ISO#505: 3 THREAD OVEREDGE (DBL PURL) 12-14 SPI ISO#512: MOCK SAFETY STITCH 12-14 SPI ISO#514: DOUBLE NEEDLE 4 THREAD OVEREDGE *STANDARD APPLICATION FOR ALL SEAMS 12-14 SPI ISO#602: 2 NEEDLE 4 THREAD COVERSTITCH 14-16 SPI ISO#605: 3 NEEDLE 5 THREAD COVERSTITCH 14-16 SPI ISO#607: FLAT SEAM 14-16 SPI

***ALL SPI ARE STANDARD REQUIREMENT, UNLESS OTHERWISE REQUESTED IN TECH PACK

1 HEMS:

H001: TURNBACK W/ ISO#406 *TURNBACK HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

TOP VIEW BOTTOM VIEW

H002: ISO#504, TURNBACK AND ISO#401 *TURNBACK HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

H003: PULLED MERROW (ISO#503) *TURNBACK HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

H004 BLINDSITICH (ISO#503) *TURNBACK HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

H005 RAW CUT ROLL & TACKED AT SEAMS *ROLL HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

H006 RAW CUT ROLL, CUT AND SEW *ROLL HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

3 H007 SCARF HEM

H008 CLEAN FINISHED *TURNBACK HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

EDGE FINISHES

E001: BINDING FOLDED EDGE *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

4 E002: BINDING RAW CUT EDGE AT INSIDE *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E003: BINDING RAW CUT EDGE AT OUTSIDE *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E004: BAND FOLDED EDGE SET WITH MERROW *STITCH AND BAND WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

5 E005: CLEAN FINISHED BAND *STITCH AND BAND WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E006: BAND RAW CUT EDGE AT OUTSIDE *STITCH AND BAND WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E007: TRIM SET FROM UNDERSIDE *STITCH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

6 E008: TRIM SET ON TOP SIDE & CLEAN FINISHED W/INSIDE BINDING *STITCH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E009: INSIDE BINDING *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E010: MERROW EDGE ISO#504

7 E011: PEARL MERROW EDGE (FLAT) ISO#502

E012: PEARL MERROW EDGE (LETTUCED) ISO#502

E013: TWISTED BAND *STITCH AND BAND WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

8 E014: BINDING WITH TRIM SET ON INSIDE CENTERED OVER SEAM *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E015: BINDING WITH BINDING SET ON INSIDE CENTERED OVER SEAM *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E016: INSIDE NECK BINDING THAT EXTENDS TO SHOULDER SEAM *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

9 E017: PICOT STITCH (ICO#411) (CAN BE ATTATCHED TO EDGE OF BINDING, FOLDBACK, BAND EDGE, ECT… TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH) *STITCH AND BINDING WIDTH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E018: SCALLOP STITCH

E019: TRIM SET ON TOP WITH ZIGZAG OR COVERSTITCH. TBD BY TECH.

10 E020: TRIM SET ON TOP & CLEAN FINISHED INSIDE. *STITCH TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

SMOCKING & SHIRRING:

S001: ELASTIC SMOCKING WITH CHAINSTITCH BACK *SPACING AND SHIRRING RATIO TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

S002: ELASTIC SMOCKING STITCH *MULTINEEDLE (TAJMAI, TAIS, KANSAI) *SPACING AND SHIRRING RATIO TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

S003: ELASTIC SET ON INSIDE WITH ZIGZAG OR SN *STITCH & SHIRR RATIO TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

S004: TUNNELED ELASTIC WITH CLEAN FINISH INSIDE *STITCH & SHIRR RATIO TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

S005: MERROW, TURNBACK AND TOPSTICH ELASTIC *STITCH & SHIRR RATIO TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

12 S006: HIDDEN ELASTIC IN FOLD. SET WITH COVERSTITCH ON INSIDE ONLY *NO SHIRRING S/B VISIBLE ON OUTSIDE OF GARMENT

ELASTIC:

KE001: KNITTED ELASTIC:

WE002: WOVEN ELASTIC

13 CE003: CLEAR ELASTIC

FE004: PRE-FOLDED ELASTIC:

BE005: BRA STRAP ELASTIC

14 BUTTONS:

Hand - ALL BUTTONS MUST BE STITCHED AS FOLLOWS - "Needle is threaded with 2 plys, each hole gets 4 passes, wrap 2x, double knot securely. Caution: DO NOT thread needle with more than 2 plys"

Machine - Use Lockstitch 304 Buttonsewer (this machine interlocks the needle thread with a bobbin thread so that it will not unravel)- Each hole gets at least 4 passes and must be knotted securely.

*For knits, all buttons must be sewn through 2 plys of fabric (body & facing or re-enforcement patch set on underside.

SNAPS AND RIVETS:

*For knits, all snaps & rivets must be set through 2 plys of fabric (body & facing or re-enforcement patch set on underside.

FUSE:

Please follow tech specification sheets for approved fusible quality.

15 URBAN OUTFITTERS MINIMUM QUALITY AND CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS: SWEATERS

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

ARMHOLE CURVE & SLV CAP CURVE SHAPE ...... 2 BEADS/SEQUINS...... 3 BELT LOOP TYPE ...... 3 BELT/TIE AND DRAWSTRING ...... 3 BOTTOM/CUFF CONSTRUCTION ...... 4 CLOSURE: BUTTON, HOOK & EYE, SNAP...... 8 HANGER LOOP ...... 8 HOOD & HOOD OPENING TRIM ...... 8 KNITTING REQUIREMENT ...... 11 LINKING SEAM ...... 12 NECK & ARMHOLE TRIM ...... 12 PLACKET ...... 16 PRESSING...... 21 SHOULDER SEAM...... 21 ZIPPERS ...... 22

The minimum quality and construction standards below are focused on sweater products only. Follow the general “Urban Outfitters Minimum Quality and Construction Standard” for other quality and construction standards which are not explained below.

1 ARMHOLE CURVE & SLV CAP CURVE SHAPE Must have cast-off stitches at underarm on both body and sleeve panel. The only exception is the drop shoulder style.

To have bottom of armhole to reach underarm when garment is worn, add cast-off stitches (=bind-off stitch or hook) at underarm, before armhole curve/sleeve cap curve start. Visible/invisible ff marks and placement of marks to be determined by technician.

2 BEADS/SEQUINS Must be securely attached with a maximum float of 1‖. The floats must be double knotted every 1‖. At least 6 extra beads of every kind used on a garment must be placed in a poly bag which is attached with the price ticket.

BELT LOOP TYPE EYE LOOP: Exits and enters at same point on side seam. STRADDLE LOOP: Exits and enters on two different points at side seam.

Chain stitched Eye (=Returned) Loop Chain stitched – Straddle Loop

Spaghetti string or Crochet chain stitch can be used as belt loop as specified by technical designer. 1. Use self-yarn, unless specified by technical designer. 2. Must be knitted to length. 3. Refer to the tech pack for specified placement. 4. Belt loop must be sewn or tacked securely to sustain normal use and washing.

BELT/TIE AND DRAWSTRING

ALL NEEDLE RIB SPAGHETTI STRING

3 Full needle Rib Strip/Spaghetti string : 1. Most common construction as belt and tie. 2. Must be knitted to length with self-start and cast-off. 3. If belt/tie is wider than 3/8‖ and supposed to be tacked at side seam, tie must be inserted during sewing of side seam. 4. If belt/tie is narrower than 3/8‖ and supposed to be tacked at side seam, tie should be tacked securely to the side seam and finished from the inside of garment. 5. End of yarn from cast-on and cast-off of the belt/tie must be tucked away properly. 6. If tie is supposed to be tacked on garment, it must be tacked securely to sustain normal use and wearing.

BOTTOM/CUFF CONSTRUCTION Below construction sketches are most commonly used bottom/cuff trim. Most construction described below can be used for neck and placket trim as well. Bottom and cuff trim can be plaited with lycra on entire trim ht. Or lycra can be added on cast-on edge only for better recovery of the trim and stretch. Adding lycra on trim should be specified by technical designer. Hem edge must be smooth and flat with good recovery. No wavy edge. No pouch right above the bottom/cuff trim caused by improper knitting tension. For separately knitted bottom/cuff trim, the trim must be attached to body/sleeve panel with linking seam, unless specified by technical designer.

BC TRIM #1: A: 1X1 RIB SINGLE B: 1X1 RIB SINGLE

4 BC TRIM #2: 1X1 RIB DOUBLE

BC TRIM #3: A: 2X2 RIB SINGLE B: 2X2 RIB SINGLE

BC TRIM #4: A: 2X2 RIB DOUBLE B: 2X2 RIB DOUBLE W/COVERSTITCHING

BC TRIM #5: SELF-START

SELF-START ON 2 COLOR FLOAT JAC. FABRIC

BC TRIM #6: A: JERSEY ROLL. B: JERSEY ROLL WITH TUBULAR BASE LINKED TO BODY/SLV PANEL

BC TRIM #7: A: JERSEY TUBULAR B: JERSEY TUBULAR. KNIT SEPARATE.

6 BC TRIM #8: CROCHET EDGE. CROCHET STITCH CAN BE APPLIED ON BOTTOM/CUFF EDGE. CROCHET STITCH LAYOUT TO BE SPECIFIED BY DEISGN. PICTURES BELOW ARE SEVERAL EXAMPLES OF HAND CROCHET STITCH LAYOUT.

Scallop edge crochet stitch

BC TRIM #9: MODIFIED ALL NEEDLE RIB TO MIMIC RIB STITCH LOOK WITH STRAIGHT SIDE SEAM SHAPE. STITCH LAYOUT FOR MODIFIED ALL NEEDLE RIB IS SPECIFIED BY TECHNICAL DESIGNER.

Mock 1x1rib on modified all needle rib stitch

Face view Bottom view

7 CLOSURE: BUTTON, HOOK & EYE, SNAP BUTTON CLOUSURE – Buttons must be sewn securely and buttonholes must be the correct size for the button. The center of the button must align with the edge of the buttonhole. 1. Hand Stitching- Needle is threaded with 2 plies, each hole gets 4 passes, wrap 2 times, double knot securely. Caution: DO NOT thread needle with more than 2 plies 2. Machine Stitching- Use Lockstitch 304 Buttonsewer (this machine interlocks the needle thread with a bobbin thread so that it will not unravel) - Each hole gets at least 4 passes and must be knotted securely. 3. All buttonholes must be densely stitched and the buttonholes cut with sharp knives so that there are no visible raw edges or threads in the buttonholes. 4. Must be correctly aligned and spaced for their size and for the location of their use. 5. An extra button must be placed in a poly bag which is attached with the price ticket or care label as specified by technical designer.

HOOK & EYE, SNAPS– 1. Must be securely attached to the garment. 2. Thread needle with 2 plies, each hole gets 4 passes, wrap 2 times, double knot securely. Caution: DO NOT thread needle with more than 2 plies.

HANGER LOOP Garments with wide necklines over 10‖ must have hanger loops unless specified by technical designer. Deep double V-neck must have hanger loops. Edge of hanger loop must be clean finished or heat seal cut. Refer to Tech Pack for required length, quality and placement. Must be securely attached to sweater.

HOOD & HOOD OPENING TRIM See bottom/cuff, neck trim, and placket trim construction section for hood opening trim construction reference. Bottom of hood must have shape to fit neck contour. Hood shape at back of top should be smoothly curved. No bump at back corner. Hood consists of 2 pc or 3 pc panels, specified by designer/technical designer. For a style which has drawstring pulls through on hood opening trim, the opening for drawstring must be created by knitting unless specified by technical designer.