The Ol’ Pioneer The Biannual Magazine of the Grand Canyon Historical Society

Volume 19 : Number 2 www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Fall 2008

In This Issue Through the Grand Canyon… 3 John H. Riffey 4 Last Words Before the Launch 6 Grand Canyon Celebrates CCC Anniversary 8 Grand Canyon Association Lecture Series 10 Kolb Studio Exhibits 11 President’s Letter The Ol’ Pioneer The Biannual Magazine of the October 8, 2008 Grand Canyon Historical Society

Volume 19 : Number 2 This year has been fun watching historians interact during our few outings. Fall 2008 You should have seen Fred Swanson’s face when he saw Dave Rust’s collapsible canvas canoe at the NPS boat collection during our September outing. Swanson u had just written the definitive biography of Dave Rust. Facts fly – some of which The Historical Society was established come from personal experience and have never been written down – whenever in July 1984 as a non-profit corporation Historical Society folks get together. It’s fascinating. to develop and promote appreciation, Now its time for new faces to take over. Those who have been doing the under-standing and education of the work of G. C. Historical Society are getting tired and at least need a break. We earlier history of the inhabitants and badly need members to take over the organizing role of the Historical Society important events of the Grand Canyon. as officers. Each role needs a person with dedication and energy. We need a The Ol’ Pioneer is published bi- President who can keep things organized. This is easy. We need a Vice President annually by the GRAND CANYON to help make sure outings happen. We need a Secretary to record what actually HISTORICAL SOCIETY in conjunction does happen, and we need a Treasurer to keep track of our finances. with The Bulletin, an informational If you have felt that Grand Canyon Historical Society ought to do _____, or paper. Both publications are a benefit of membership. Membership in the Society that this would sure be a better organization if it had _____, this is your chance. is open to any person interested in the You can make this organization whatever you want it to be if you just become historical, educational, and charitable an active officer. Your big opportunity will be on Saturday, November 1st, at the purposes of the Society. Membership is East Flagstaff Library, 3000 N. 4th St., beginning at 9:00 A.M. You don’t have on an annual basis using the standard to be a Board Member to attend or to be an officer. If you can’t make it to this calendar; and dues of $20 are payable on the 1st of January each year, and meeting but want to be an officer, let me know at [email protected] or let any mailed to the GCHS Treasurer, PO Box other board member know. 345 Flagstaff, AZ 86002. The Ol’ Pioneer There is so much to the human story of the Grand Canyon. Each of you know a magazine is copyrighted by the Grand part of that story that nobody else knows. That story will become lost to history Canyon Historical Society, Inc. All rights if you don’t put some energy into this organization. reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form This year’s events have been quite interesting. Our meeting with Ruth Baker without permission of the publisher. Stevens’ family brought clarity to the Kolb climb up Shiva Temple. Our outing at the Red Butte Airport had me imagining landing there in a Ford Tri-motor. Editor: Mary Williams We built the cable car across the Colorado River in the canyon with Dave Rust Submit photos and stories to the The Ol’ Pioneer with the help of Fred Swanson’s pictures and description. We discussed new editor of at: mary@ marywilliamsdesign.com or 4880 N possibilities about Powell and his explorations with Mark Law at the Powell Weatherford Road, Flagstaff, AZ 86001. Museum in Page. All have been enlightening experiences in my quest to (928) 779-3377. Please submit written understand the nuances of Grand Canyon history. articles and photos electronically on CD or via email if possible. You may mail Keith Green photos or slides for scanning if needed. Submissions to The Bulletin should be sent to Karen Greig, [email protected]

GCHS Officers Keith Green, President Henry Karpinski & Erik Berg, Joint Vice President/Outings Coordinator Susan Billingsley, Treasurer Nancy Green, Secretary George Billingsley, Pioneer Award Dan Cassidy, Membership Committee

Board of Directors Cover photo: Grand Canyon National Park Employee Campground – circa Lee Albertson Beverly Loomis 1952 George Billingsley Paul Schnur Susan Billingsley Gaylord Staveley Amy Horn Amanda Zeman Henry Karpinski The Ol’ Pioneer submission deadlines are February 1, 2009 for Volume 20 #1 and September 1, 2009 for Volume 20 #2.

2 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Five Generations Down the Bass

Robert Lauzon

ver Thanksgiving I had the opportunity to hike the South Bass Trail with three of my four Ochildren. They represented the fifth generation of Bass’ that have traveled from rim to river. W.W. Bass was their great great Grandfather and although they knew much of the family history they had not experienced it. We hiked it with some good friends, one of which had hiked with me in 1971 down to the Esplanade and found the old “Nooner” cave used by Bass. At that time we found old coffee cans, canned cream and traps. I had not been back since so this was a chance to experience the vastness of the canyon again. Thanksgiving dinner with family and friends. From left to right back row is: Ike Ullyot, Leah Lauzon, Sarah Lauzon, Joe Loverich, Robert Lauzon, Front row: Michael Lauzon, Ike Ullyot. We spent the first night on the Esplanade exploring that area and revisiting the cave. All artifacts have so good as we imagined from books, of our amazing feat, realizing of been removed and it looked more like T.V. and movies. course that on a scale of 1 to 10 we Hotel California, from the places that No rafts were camped on the North had the difficulty of a #2, compared hikers have made to sleep on so as to side so we were not able to cross over with others who had gone before us. not roll off the 1000-foot drop off. After and explore Shinumo Creek. We will Five generations have now dinner I went with my two daughters be doing a rafting trip in July and traveled down and back, hopefully (Sarah 24, Leah 17) and sat on a large plan on stopping and to see that side there will be more to carry on the rock overlooking Bass Canyon and as well. family history. ate milk and cookies while watching Sarah dipped water the sunset. For me this was the from the river for doing highlight of the trip, as we looked out dishes after dinner, not and talked about spiritual matters much different than and wondered about creation. I am Ada must have done sure that W.W., Ada, Edith, Bert and over 100 years earlier, others must have done the same from but we were not doing time to time, of course without the the three-day “laundry milk and cookies. The next day we duty” that she had to started down to the river and my son, do. Michael and his friend Joe Loverich We hiked back to caught up with us. They had brought the Esplanade and ate down a turkey breast, and instant spaghetti that we had potatoes for Thanksgiving dinner at stashed on the way the river. That night we camped on down and had one more the sand bar at the foot of the South chance to realize the Bass and had a real Thanksgiving vastness of the canyon dinner topped off with a fresh baked and what must have Boy Scout cake in a pan. drawn W.W. and Ada We explored the area and thought to this spot. We hiked about what life must have been like out the next day and Family outing at the old river. Left to right: Robert Lauzon, back in the 1880s and decided that the ate Oreo cookies and Sarah Lauzon, Leah Lauzon, Michael Lauzon (me and my good old life may have not been quite Doritos in celebration three kids) www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 3 King of the Road by Don Lago to “pay no union dues.” both the country and rock-and-roll Roger also had a chance to “know categories, beating out the Beatles’s t was the height of the British every engineer on every train, all of “Yesterday.” It even hit #1 on the pop Invasion. If Roger was playing their children and all of their names.” charts in Britain. “King of the Road” his radio as he drove into Grand Just like today, when passenger trains resonated with the long American CanyonI Village, chances are he was parked at the canyon station their love of the open road, a theme that ran hearing the Beatles or another British crews would wander up the hill to from Daniel Boone through Whitman band. It seemed that rock and roll get coffee at El Tovar or a candy bar and Steinbeck and that in the 1960s was taking over the musical world, at the shops. was practically the only theme that sweeping aside folk, jazz, country, Driving past the Motor Lodge, appealed equally to hippies and Broadway, and crooners—even (which later would be replaced by rednecks. The song’s imagery of a Sinatra was worrying. But not Roger. Maswik Lodge), Roger didn’t see his down-and-out hobo roaming the He drove past the old Motor old “trailer for rent.” country was right out of the folk Lodge with its campground where he Roger drove up the hill to tradition of fellow Oklahoman Woody had lived one summer a dozen years Verkamp’s. He walked inside and Guthrie. But the words were set to before. He had worked “two hours asked if his old boss, Jack Verkamp, music that was much more upbeat, pushin’ broom” to live in a “trailer for was still there. Jack Verkamp came its syncopation more like jazz than rent,” about “8 x 12.” The trailer had out, pretty surprised that Roger Miller country. The song’s mood too was “no phone, no pool, no pets.” He had would visit him now that Roger was upbeat. Though the hobo’s clothes are been “a man of means, by no means.” a huge star. Especially since Verkamp threadbare and he is picking up “old But he was seventeen years old, seeing had fired Roger Miller and kicked stogies” off the ground, he knows his the country for the first time, having a him out of his “trailer for rent.” But at way around; he has friends along the great adventure. The trailer was tiny least Roger always had a good sense way; he is having a good time. He and rundown, but it was on the rim of humor about things. is the king of the road. This mood of the Grand Canyon. Roger’s sense of humor had was an expression of Miller’s upbeat He had lived beside the railroad helped make him a star. The songs personality, and it also fit the times— tracks, right where the trains slowed he wrote were popping with clever, the swinging 60s—better than did down and turned around. Even in humorous wordplay. Roger’s success Woody Guthrie’s despairing victims. 1953, well after the high tide of Great also came from his ability to blend Miller had taken an old folk image, Depression homeless men riding the musical styles. Twenty years later, in kept the poignancy, yet given his hobo rails, a hobo would occasionally ride a 1985, Roger would win a Tony Award a long-running American optimism. freight car into Grand Canyon Village for writing Big River, a hit Broadway If Jack Verkamp was surprised (in 1953 most food and supplies still musical about Huckleberry Finn. to see Roger Miller walk through came by train) and hop out of the Roger was the only country music his door a dozen years after he fired “third boxcar.” It’s not likely that any star ever to win a Tony Award. The Roger, it was partly because Verkamp of these hobos were hopping the “third producer of Big River drafted Miller hadn’t realized what the job had meant boxcar; midnight train; destination to write its music, convinced that to Roger. Roger had grown up along Bangor, Maine,” but hey, what are Miller was the only person who Rt. 66 in Oklahoma, the mother road, you going to rhyme with “train”? could combine the folksiness of the queen of the roads, and he had “Williams” just doesn’t cut it. Mark Twain’s voice and Huck Finn’s watched real Joads living the Grapes Roger may have had a chance to life with a musical style that would of Wrath, overloading their old trucks meet some of the hobos and hear about satisfy sophisticated Broadway and heading west for a better life in their life on the road. If the hobos audiences. This blending of folksy California. Later on, in better times, tried to bum cigarettes off Roger, he material and beyond-country musical Roger saw tourists heading into the may have told them “I ain’t got no style produced Miller’s biggest hits, mythic West, the land of cowboys and cigarettes.” He was “a man of means, allowing him to compete with the Indians and Grand Canyons. Roger by no means.” But in his job he did Beatles. In 1964 and 1965 Miller won had loved playing cowboy. And now spend a lot of time cleaning cigarettes eleven Grammy Awards, more than here he was, in the real West, looking and cigars off the ground, and being the Beatles at their peak, a record that out over the Grand Canyon every next to the El Tovar parking lot, he would stand for two decades. day, living in a place those tourists had plenty of chances to “smoke old Roger’s biggest hit was “King were merely visiting. He was living stogies I have found, short but not too of the Road,” which won the 1965 out American myth; he was the king big around.” At least he didn’t have Grammy Award for best song in of the road.

4 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Road,” and at one point he interrupted an interview and said, “A lot of people have mentioned that song and how it came to be written, and every story has been different!”1 In a personal communication to me, Style said, “There could be a documentary done on that song and what the real story is.” But some things ring true about “King of the Road” being inspired by Roger Miller’s time at the Grand Canyon. One line after another fits his circumstances at Grand Canyon National Park the canyon. I’ve contacted Employee Campground - circa 1953 several sources about this possibility, including Now Roger had even more reason of the young girls we had working Roger Miller’s wife and son, the Roger to appreciate his time at the Grand there, and these guys, they were Miller Museum in Erick, Oklahoma, Canyon. He had just achieved a huge just all over the place, so I got him and Miller’s biographer, Lyle Style, hit with “King of the Road.” out of that deal. Then after lunch, and as far as anyone could tell me, this “He ended up at the railroad same thing happened. I said, ‘Roger, was the only time Roger Miller lived depot,” Jack Verkamp explained you’re fired.’ These old gals were just in a trailer and earned it by “pushin’ about how Roger Miller came to work working their butts off and he was broom.” The hobo’s happy-go-lucky for him in 1953 [Jack Verkamp and his [makes jabbering sound] with these attitude in the song sounds just like wife Betty were interviewed in 1995 young girls. So I just fired him right Miller working at—and getting by GCNP archivists Carolyn Richard on the spot. He used to come back fired from—Verkamp’s. Miller was and Mike Quinn], “and Sam Turner and see us. First time he came back surrounded by trains, and he would was the agent at that time. He went he says ‘I got something to thank you indeed have had a chance to “know in there and hit him up for a job. Sam for. I wrote that “King of the Road” every engineer on every train,” a line didn’t have anything for him but he when I was in that little trailer. I want that doesn’t actually make sense for a did call me. I said, ‘Well, I might be to thank you for getting me started on hobo’s life, since hobos tried to stay able to put him on as a clerk.’ So he my road.’ “ invisible from railroad crews. came up and we happened to have a Roger’s ‘road’ forced him to finally Were there actually hobos at the little old trailer over in the old Auto get serious about his musical career. Grand Canyon? I asked Grand Canyon Camp.” He soon headed for Nashville. railroad historian Al Richmond about Betty Verkamp added: “Just big This, at least, is what Roger told this, and he said: “Although I have enough for one person.” Jack Verkamp about “King of the never heard any stories of them I “Kind of a travel trailer,” continued Road.” am sure some must have made their Jack Verkamp. “So I put him over It turns out that over the years way to the canyon on the occasional there. He worked out pretty good quite a few stories arose about the freights. The passenger trains would until this big influx of Boy Scouts origins of “King of the Road,” some have been almost impossible to hop came in.” Verkamp was referring to of them encouraged by Roger Miller. a ride without detection.” Grand a 1953 invasion of the South Rim by In 2005 Lyle E. Style published an oral Canyon historian Mike Anderson trains carrying 20,000 Boy Scouts to a biography of Roger Miller, Ain’t Got added: “I don’t know of any specific national Boy Scout Jamboree. When No Cigarettes, in which he interviewed mention of people riding the rails to the Boy Scouts swarmed the store many of Miller’s friends and musical the canyon, but I wouldn’t doubt it.” like locusts, “I saw him leaning on colleagues. Style continued hearing Anderson said that during the Great the counter top talking to a couple different stories about “King of the Depression, many Grapes of Wrath www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 5 which he fell asleep right in the middle of a meeting with top record company executives, which convinced them that Miller was a worthless slacker: one day Jack Verkamp carried some new merchandise into the basement, only to find Roger sleeping on a box of merchandise. Both Mike and Steve Verkamp remembered Roger Miller returning to the store after he was a star and talking with his dad as his dad ate a peanut butter sandwich. Miller had come back to say thanks. The problem here is that Miller’s time at the Grand Canyon has been forgotten by everyone except the Verkamps. No source I Grand Canyon National Park contacted was aware that Miller had Employee Campground - circa 1953 ever worked at the canyon, and no one ever heard him attribute “King of the refugees heading for California came drove my father nuts beating out Road” to his time there. In his public up to the South Rim, camped in the rhythms on the glass display cases.” performances Miller often dedicated forest, and often found work inside Miller’s job included quite a bit of the song to the town of Boise, Idaho, the park. “NPS documentation,” said “pushin’ broom,” certainly the two where he supposedly saw a sign that Anderson, “indicates there may have hours worth mentioned in the song. said “trailer for sale or rent,” the first been as many as 500 of them there Miller was almost the only male in the line of the song. There were no trailers during the 1933-35 period.” Twenty store, and pushin’ broom was a man’s for sale at the Grand Canyon. Miller’s years later there weren’t so many job, and a constant job, since the store wife has the airline ticket envelope on hobos, but freight cars were still free, was only sixty feet from the rim, and which Miller wrote the lyrics to the and even hobos can be curious to see updrafts blew dust out of the canyon song. Thus it doesn’t seem likely that the Grand Canyon. and into the store all the time. Steve a seventeen-year-old Miller wrote To gather more background on Verkamp said that his father was the lyrics in his trailer at the Grand Roger Miller’s time at Verkamp’s, I “a fanatic” about keeping the store Canyon. It’s unimaginable that a spoke with the kids of Jack and Betty clean. Miller also had to clean off the struggling songwriter would have sat Verkamp, Susie, Steve, and Mike, who front porch, where tourists often sat on such a good song for a decade. But grew up in the house above the store and smoked, and the grounds of the it is plausible that a “trailer for sale or and who were six to eleven years old store, including the space between rent” sign would have brought back when Roger Miller worked there. the store and the rim, though this memories of when Roger Miller had Steve Verkamp remembered Miller as was Park Service property. Miller was rented a trailer by pushin’ broom; “a character,” a skinny kid who would actually getting paid to pick up the when he was young and free; when bring his guitar into the store and play “old stogies I have found” in the song. train whistles constantly played the it, mostly strumming chords, when he Steve Verkamp said that the trailer in song of the open road; when he was was supposed to be working. Miller which Roger Miller lived was “really far along the mother road; when he was already a good musician, but shabby, about 12-feet long,” exactly was feeling that he was the King of Steve didn’t think he ever tried to play the length in the song. Mike Verkamp the Road. in public at the Bright Angel Lodge, recalled Miller as “a very attractive which was the main entertainment and social guy with probably more 1. Lyle E. Style, Ain’t Got No Cigarettes: venue on the South Rim. Steve said charisma than ten regular blokes.” Memories of Music Legend Roger Miller that his father repeatedly had to tell Miller didn’t have any trouble getting (Winnipeg, Canada; Great Plains Roger to stop playing his guitar and dates for the nightly dances at the Publications, 2005), p. 229 get back to work. Susie remembered Bright Angel. Miller seems to have Roger playing the “drums”: “He been practicing for a future incident in

6 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Dave Rust: A Life in the Canyon

Grand Canyon Historical Society to then Brigham Young Academy in materialized in the volume which presentation by author Fred Swanson Provo, forerunner of today’s BYU. He Rust had hoped for. Trickles of groups about his new book “Dave Rust: A Life also attended Stanford. He married did come down, but Rust turned his in the Canyon” September 13, 2008 Ruth Woolley of Kanab, Utah. His attention to guiding. father-in-law, Edwin D. (Uncle Dee) Some of the clients were hunters. by Nancy Green Woolley was an influential citizen of But many were well-to-do, educated, Kanab with a longing eye cast on the curious Easterners who clicked with he Society was pleased once nearby Kaibab Plateau. He viewed Dave’s abilities to not only be guided, again to have author Fred the landscape as ripe for tourism. but educated and found that their Swanson discuss with us his Southern Utah had long eyed the horizons were expanded. This suited latestT book. Dave Rust was a pivotal Arizona Strip region as an area which Dave much more than staying in one figure in canyon history, and little should belong to Utah. Many felt place and running a tourist camp. has been written in depth about him that the Arizona Territory border Automobiles were trying to until now. Fred did some incredible should end at the Colorado River. make inroads on the North Kaibab research to show us the scope of this Several years after forming the Grand Plateau, but the problem was – there remarkable man’s life. Dave Rust Canyon Transportation Company weren’t any real roads. Rust much was one of the first guides to take in 1903, Woolley tapped the talent preferred horses and mules to the people into the Needles District, and enthusiasm of his son-in-law noisy machines, but realized they Canyonlands, the Maze, Waterpocket to begin a task that makes us gasp could play a part in his guiding Fold, Zion Canyon, Bryce Canyon, today. Simply – build a trail, by hand, practice. He jokingly told his clients as well as the Grand Canyon and across the Grand Canyon’s north that he was an MD – which stood for the Indian lands. He understood the side, and establish a tourist camp by “Mule Driver.” He was always more value and importance of the entirety the river. Oh, and – you will need to comfortable pushed back in a saddle of the Colorado Plateau. erect a cable car to get the tourists than the seat of a car. 1909 saw the Rust was an educator by heart and over the river from the south side. first automobiles making it to Bright by profession. He began as a teacher in Astoundingly, Rust did just that. He Angel Point on the North Rim, after many of the small towns, and worked started scratching out what became quite an arduous journey. his way up to superintendent. But the Old Bright Angel trail with just a In 1923, Rust explored Glen his deep love of the outdoors made small team of workers with pickaxes Canyon in the same kind of small, that his classroom as well. When he and shovels in the summer of 1906. collapsible canoes that he had guided a trek, he didn’t feel his job All materials had to be brought by used to help string the cable car. was merely to get his clients from one horseback from Kanab, 100 miles Interestingly, Rust couldn’t swim, but point on the map to another. He felt away. felt comfortable traveling through the compelled to impart information on Even when building the apparatus gentle backwaters of the Glen. He had, the geology, natural history, flora and for the cable car, that had to be brought in fact, turned down an invitation to fauna, as well as take in the scenery. down, and then brought across the accompany the Kolb Brothers on He always carried with him a small river in small canvas canoes – first a their famous 1911 river trip through reference library consisting of the small cable, then the bigger, heavier the Grand Canyon. works of Dutton and Powell, two of cable. After a great deal of heave- Dave Rust passed away in 1963. his explorer heroes. He expected his hoing, they got the cables strung, Passing with him was an era when clients to fall in love with his arena and then ventured out in a painter’s intrepid explorers could still see the just as he had. So many of us today harness to have a look at things. To Great American Southwest where the hold this same value about this their horror, they discovered that the hand of man had never set foot. remarkable canyon country in which cable was beginning to fray. All their Thanks to Fred Swanson for his we live. hard work of that summer had to be great representation of this remarkable Growing up in Caineville, Utah laid aside until the next year. Grand Canyon Pioneer, Dave Rust. with the Waterpocket Fold as his In 1907, the new cable was strung, Fred’s website is www. backyard, Rust found much pleasure and the cable car was in place. A load fredswansonbooks.com in the great outdoors. But he knew of rocks was sent across for a trial run. that the only way up in the world Kersplash – the cable car landed in the was to get an education. He made river, which Rust noted had proven some money as a placer miner so to be a monster. Finally operational, that he could go to college. He went the hoped for rush of tourists never www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 7 A Hardy Welcome by Don Lago Colorado River might be—or could which suggests Andy Hall, the only be engineered to be—navigable far crew member known to have driven hen the first Powell beyond Hardyville, even through bulls, but then the speaker says that expedition emerged from the Grand Canyon and all the way three others on the crew had once the Grand Canyon in to Colorado. Historians of the driven bulls. According to an 1897 SeptemberW of 1869 they encountered Colorado River have chosen to treat letter that Hardy wrote to professor two prominent individuals who proponents of this idea, such as Sam George Davidson, Hardy later hired wrote accounts of their meeting with Adams, who launched an expedition Andy Hall to drive his stage between the expedition, accounts that have down the Grand River in 1869, as Hardyville and Prescott. Perhaps this been overlooked by historians. The utter crackpots. But in fact there were connection was made in the meeting first of these accounts, written by intelligent, respected western leaders Hardy described in his 1869 letters. James Leithead, leader of the Virgin who held out high hopes for the In any case, Hardy’s letters to Palmer River Mormon settlements, was Colorado River. This was what drew make it clear that Hardy was not too published in the Fall 2007 issue of the William Palmer’s keen interest in the impressed by the Powell expedition. Ol’ Pioneer. The second encounter was arrival of James White at Callville in Hardy wrote run-on sentences, so with William H. Hardy, who reported 1867. Palmer and his survey’s head I have supplied some punctuation on the Powell expedition in several scientist, Charles Parry, became the and capitals to make reading easier. letters to General William J. Palmer. leading advocates of James White William Hardy is best remembered having indeed run the Grand Canyon. u as the founder of Hardyville, an This is also what made Palmer eager important early ferry crossing and to see how Powell’s expedition came Hardyville steamboat port on the Colorado River, out, and what it had to report. In September 20, 1869 located on the present site of Bullhead the summer of 1869 Palmer wrote to Gen Wm J. Palmer City. William Hardy lived out a Hardy asking about Powell, and on classic story of the Wild West, chasing August 5th Hardy replied: Dear sir, adventure and finding abundant “Neither of the two parties that Since I last wrote I have had an opportunity. He was drawn west by have undertaken the exploration of opportunity to converse with one of the California gold rush of 1849, but the Colorado River have made their the men that came through the great he soon realized that there was less appearance at this place yet and as canyon with Maj Powell. profit in mining than in owning a the river is low I hardly believe that To numerous questions that I store selling supplies to miners. When one soul of either party will come asked he said: mining started booming in Arizona, out safe but I believe that all have There was but one of our party Hardy moved to Arizona and perished. Both Adams and Powell are that had any experience with a boat. located the northernmost steamboat- crazy and know not what they were He was not an expert. As to me I used navigable spot on the Colorado River doing.” to drive bulls as did three others of and established Hardyville there, William Hardy does not sound our party. We soon learned to roe but building a store, hotel, saloon, ferry, like a believer in the navigability of we were afraid of the water, would a road to Prescott, a stage and freight the Colorado River. get frightened in passing over the line to Prescott, and a store in Prescott. A few weeks later Powell’s boats rapids. Hardy knew that a railroad would arrived at Hardyville. By now there The journey was a lonesome soon be built across Arizona, and he were only four crew members; three monotinous and hard one and money was hoping it would cross the river at had left at Separation Rapid, and would not hire me to try the trip over Hardyville. This put Hardy in touch Powell and his brother Walter had again. We found sand bars on one side with William J. Palmer, who was in left with James Leithead at the mouth or the other of the river nearly all the charge of surveying the Southwest of the Virgin River. Hardy talked with way. The walls of the canyon was not for the Kansas Pacific Railway. Palmer one of Powell’s men, though it’s not perpendicular as had been described needed the knowledge and logistical clear who this was. It couldn’t have but benched off or flared out at the top support of local leaders like Hardy. been George Bradley, for Bradley was and generally was two or three miles They began corresponding. in the boat that the speaker describes across at the top of the mountain. We An important unanswered lowering over Lava Cliff Rapid. This found different kinds of rock. One question in 1869 was the commercial leaves Andy Hall, Jack Sumner, and place the bank was marble, again potential of the Colorado River. There Billy Hawkins. The speaker describes volcanic lava, finally all kinds of rock were those who believed that the himself as a former bull wrangler, was passed in making the ascent but

8 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org little timber was noticed except on at Callville and three others leaving the high mountains near the San Juan the expedition at a point about one and Grand rivers. hundred miles above Callville left One time I undertook to lower one none of the party to pass this place of our party over the worst rapid and that were reliable or acquainted the rope slipped and down he went with exploring to give an intelligent sideways all right and we took the report. I learned however that it was chances and followed. Here our boats the intention of Prof Powell to at once took in some water but not bad. publish his report. I am satisfied that (Note:) From this man’s the lay of the country will not suit description I would think that a man you or help your enterprise… used to running the rivers of Maine or Wisconsin would make sport of the Wm H Hardy worst falls encountered by this party. First their boats were not properly Published with permission of the constructed but were the common Colorado Historical Society square end short skiffs. Should have been of the bateau pattern and thirty feet long. Mr. Powell took the barrings of the canyons and can make a perfect Historic Boats Tour chart of the whole river. We see more indications of mineral along the banks, no valuable agricultural land Grand Canyon Historical Society and the sport yak were originally in sight. Outing on September 13, 2008 led by all displayed at the former Visitor It would cost more to make this Janet Balsom, Deputy Chief of Science Center, which is now designated as river navigable than it would to build and Resource Management, at the Park Headquarters. All of these boats a Pacific railroad across the continent. Grand Canyon National Park Service were outside in the courtyard, and The fourgoing is all that I could Museum Collection, South Rim. had definitely been exposed to all learn of this man that seamed to be kinds of weather and the tossing of important. by Nancy Green visitors’ trash. Maj Powell sent a copy of his Julius Stone had hired Nathanial report to have it signed by the e were so fortunate to have Galloway to take 4 boats down the commander of the post but I did not Jan lead this tour, as she Colorado River in 1909. Stone rowed learn of this untile it had been sent was very knowledgeable his own boat, guided by Galloway. away or I would have got a copy of Wand had been working on this project Stone left one boat at Hite, and another it—however it will be published soon since 2003. Also on our tour was boat had been donated to the Ohio and then we can learn all about it… Gaylord Staveley, board member State Museum. Another boat was in The Colorado River is very of GCHS, and an advisor for the the custody of the Stone family, and lowe and will probably be lower in conservation project for these historic the final boat has been lost to history. December than it has been in years… boats. A definition of this project In 1950, the Stone family and the is necessary for understanding. To Ohio State Museum donated those Yours truly, restore something is to make it new. two boats to Grand Canyon National Wm H Hardy This is not what is going on with these Park. These boats were made out of boats. They are being conserved. The rubberized canvas and muslin, with a u work is painstaking and slow, as each canvas splash guard. When they were boat bears the passage of time and use. donated, they were complete with Hardyville All of the boat cradles and platforms lots of nicks and bumps, but with the Sept. 28, 1869 were custom made for each boat by original rope left intact. These boats Gen Wm Palmer Brad Dimock, a river relic himself. were relatively light, weighing in at No loss of life is associated with 243 lbs. unloaded. Dear General, any of these boats in the collection. All In 1911, using the blueprints from Your letter of the 16th of Aug came boats have had a significant impact the Stone boats, the Kolb brothers to hand per last mail. I have written on river running history in the Grand commissioned 2 boats to be built in all the facts connected with the Canyon and the Colorado River. Racine, Wisconsin. They were named Powell expedition that I could gather. The “Edith”, “Glen”, one of the the “Edith” (after Emery’s daughter) The fact of Powell’s leaving the party Stone expedition boats from 1909, and the “Defiance”. www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 9 During 1921-1923, the United States Dave Rust. In 1923, Rust ordered which was that the river was dropping Geological Survey took an expedition more of these kinds of boats for his dramatically as they were running the down the Colorado River. The “Glen” journeys in Glen Canyon. These were river. The “We Red” did finally make was the cook’s boat for this trip. It well-suited to the gentle conditions it—the only successful uprun. An is interesting to note that the USGS there. The only significant obstacles identical craft, the “We Yellow” was boats weighed 800 lbs unloaded. for those 170 miles of river were some lost in Grapevine Rapid after it sank. In 1941, river legend Norm Nevills limestone ledges. Rust would ship The Park Service has now outlawed took the first kayak down the river. these by mail to Hite where he would any further such uprun attempts. This was built out of balsa wood as a begin his trips. Mail in those days Many thanks to the National Park collapsible model. was hauled by wagon to Hite. One of Service for the fine work being done This conservation work is being co- these boats was lost in 1926 when a to conserve this unique collection, sponsored by the Grand Canyon River sandwave flipped it end to end and and for letting us borrow Jan Balsom Outfitters Association, the National it sank. Hinged planks were laid on for the informative tour. Park Service, the Grand Canyon the bottom of the canoe to encourage Association and the Stone Family, stability. Steel rods were horizontally using conservators out of Tucson. placed on the sides for reinforcement. One of the biggest stumbling blocks Dave Rust, interestingly, could not in this project was the liberal use of swim, but was not a believer in life linseed oil. Up until about 20 years preservers. He would carry an auto ago, linseed oil was thought to be the tire tube stashed in the boat. But – one way to treat boats. Unfortunately, it wonders how quickly that could have collects dirt badly. So the conservators been accessed in an emergency. have been working painstakingly One of Georgie White’s famous slowly to remove each layer and rubber rafts is also in the collection. In steam the canvas parts. 1954 Georgie changed forever the face Dock Marsten was a former Nevills of river running by buying 3 World boatman who became obsessed with War II surplus rafts and tied them river history. He took a sport yak together for a large group river trip. down the Colorado in 1963 to observe This one was donated in 1960. the post-dam conditions of the river. Martin Litton’s wooden dory, the He was a very controversial character. “Music Temple” (1960) is also in the To obtain his oral histories, he would collection. set up adversarial scenarios between The “Esmeralda II” from 1949, other river characters and let them go was the first gasoline powered boat at it. He earned the nickname “Little to attempt the Colorado River. Ed Stinker” which he proudly had painted Hudson had made an “Esmeralda on his sport yak, accompanied by a I” for quiet water, and made the cartoon of a skunk. This boat looked second boat for an uprun attempt for all the world like a large bathtub, on the Colorado. The boat made one albeit with oarlocks and a splash and a half trips. First, they tried to guard. The rower would get very wet, go upstream, which didn’t work. ending up with LOTS of water in the So, they went downstream, which lap. Interestingly – the more the boat they were able to accomplish. The filled with water, it actually became boat was abandoned alongside the more stable. Marsten’s historical river, so the Park Service acquired it. records are housed at the Huntington This boat weighs one ton, with a 125 Library. horsepower in-line 6 engine. Much to the delight of our visiting In 1960 there was still uprun author, Fred Swanson, Dave Rust’s fever on the river. New Zealander original collapsible canoes had recently John Hamilton piloted the “We Red” been acquired by the Park Service. Buehler Turbocraft upriver. This boat These were made by the Kalamazoo had been housed at Wahweep in the Boat Company in Michigan. Rust Glen Canyon National Recreation used these to ferry people and Area, and was transferred to Grand supplies across the Colorado before Canyon. It took 3 days to get up Lava completion of his cable car system. Falls, most of which was filmed. The Ken Sleight had acquired these from crew was battling many odds, one of

10 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org It Happened at Grand Canyon Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon Community Book Club digging deeper. Todd found that Association discussion of “It Happened at Grand Google, along with more traditional Canyon” by Todd R. Berger, September research at the National Park Service Lecture Series 30, 2008 Library and Cline Library, Northern Arizona University helped to pull the by Nancy Green facts together. Berger said that after Calendar becoming saturated with research, he e were pleased to have needed to just sit down and write. Sunday October 19, 2008 Mr. Berger facilitate our He began with a long outline Prescott discussion, after a little of proposed topics. In fact, there ‘Ain’t It Purty?”: Tourist Impressions coaxingW from us. Todd explained that originally were about twice as many of the Grand Canyon he had been doing some freelance topics as what ended up in the book. Paul Hirt and Yolanda Youngs work for Globe Pequot Press since Todd’s editor gave him an exact ------2002. They own the rights to the “It number of expected chapters and Wednesday,October 22, 2008 Happened at…” series, which also word count. Todd wryly noted that Flagstaff includes a book about Yellowstone he went well over that. ‘Ain’t It Purty?”: Tourist Impressions National Park. Since Todd lives and Some stories Todd had a passing of the Grand Canyon works at Grand Canyon for the Grand acquaintance with, such as references Paul Hirt and Yolanda Youngs Canyon Association as managing to Dave Rust, Rust camp, and the work ------editor, it seemed natural for the press on the cable car. He went far back into Sunday November 16, 2008 to ask him if he was interested in his own reading memories by using Prescott writing a similar book about Grand “Hiroshima” by John Hershey to help Tracing the Ancient Landscapes of Canyon. It took two years of hard introduce the chapter on uranium the Colorado Plateau work doing the research and writing, mining in the Grand Canyon. But it Ron Blakey and Wayne Ranney but the result is a fine recording of was the little nuggets of detail which ------interesting historical events about the Todd unearthed which made reading Wednesday November 19, 2008 Grand Canyon. this book so much fun for Grand Flagstaff Todd reported that as a function Canyon residents and history buffs. Tracing the Ancient Landscapes of of his work, he spends quite a bit of Like the selling of uranium samples the Colorado Plateau his time reading, researching and fact to the tourists while the mine was Ron Blakey and Wayne Ranney checking for works which cross his in operation! Or the archaic name ------desk at the Grand Canyon Association. for Arizona—Pimeria Alta. Berger Wednesday December 3, 2008 Once he was approached about doing showed an emotional component Flagstaff this specific book, he relied on some to famous artist Thomas Moran by Canyon Experiences: Sublime to Silly work he had already done, and took noting that although Moran never Gary Ladd time to research and write about much returned to Yellowstone once his ------more. Going back to a journalism class artist work was done there, he Sunday December 21, 2008 he took in college, he remembered returned time and time again to the Prescott the assignment was to compare Grand Canyon. Many of us share that Stories Among the Aspen: An Arche- and contrast different news source emotion with Moran. ologist’s Perspective on the Ranch- coverage of the same event. He chose Thank you, Todd for sharing ing History of the North Rim and the 1956 air crash over the Grand history in an interesting book which North Kaibab Canyon as his topic. His sources were also subtly suggests the essence of Amy Horn the Arizona Republic, the Arizona the humor that we locals have come Daily Sun, and the New York Times. to expect from you. ______He found the best coverage of that For detailed information visit: event was by the Flagstaff Arizona www.grandcanyon.org Daily Sun. Noting that proximity did play a part in providing the best story, Todd used his Grand Canyon residency in combination with lots of research. Bibliographies were a great starting place for him to continue www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 11 Spread the Word — Join the Grand Canyon Historical Society!

Membership in the Grand Canyon Historical Society has its benefits: • Annual subscription to the bi-annual magazine The Ol’ Pioneer. • Annual subscription to the quarterly newsletter The Bulletin. • Discount on all GCHS publications. • Free admission to all GCHS programs and outings, including an annual picnic on the edge of the Canyon. • Participation in the annual GCHS membership meeting and the election of Board Members. Membership is $20 per year ($25 outside U.S.). To become a member print out the online application at grandcanyonhistory.org or write down your name, address, phone number and email address and send it with your check to the Grand Canyon Historical Society at PO Box 345, Flagstaff, AZ 86002.

Grand Canyon Historical Society PRSRT STD PO Box 345 U.S. POSTAGE Flagstaff, AZ 86002 PAID FLAGSTAFF, AZ PERMIT 333