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Snowdonia & the Llŷn

Includes  Why Go? Llangollen ...... 223 This part of really packs it in, from rugged mountain Bala (Y Bala). . . . . 230 trails to coastal paths, old industrial sites and heritage train ...... 232 lines. The gem in this diadem is National Park, ...... 238 where the mightiest peaks south of Scotland scrape glower- ing skies. With such a formidable­ mountain shield, it’s little Betws-y-Coed...... 241 wonder that the northwestern county of has held ...... 246 tightly to Cymraeg language and culture. More than 65% speak the ancient mother tongue here – the highest propor- (Yr Wyddfa)...... 249 tion in the country. ...... 251 Along with the mountains there’s the sea – battering the . . . . . 254 rocks at Braich-y-Pwll, producing surfer-friendly swells at Porth Neigwl and cooling the bathers at . And ...... 259 all those bracing sea breezes seem to have blown much of the stuffiness or British reserve from the local populace. In many ways, this slice of the country distils the very es- sence of Welshness – just don’t mention that to the folks in Best Places Cardiff! to Eat ¨¨Soul Food (p239) When to Go ¨¨Coconut Kitchen (p260) ¨¨April to July are the driest months, while July and ¨¨Bistro Bermo (p238) August are the warmest. The best months to hit the ¨¨Tyddyn Restaurant mountains are June and July for their combination of (p230) higher temperatures and lower wind and rain. ¨¨Gallt-y-Glyn (p248) ¨¨In June the Three Peaks Yacht Race hits Barmouth, while the hardcore put on their fell-running shoes for the Snowdon Race in July, the same month Llangollen holds Best Places its International Musical and Fringe Festival. to Sleep ¨¨September is the big month for events, with Bala’s triathlon, Barmouth’s arts and walking festivals and ¨¨Ffynnon (p234) ’s wonderful Festival No 6. Snow starts to ¨¨Ruthin Hotel (p223) fall in the mountains in October and lingers on the paths ¨¨mh Townhaus (p227) until May. ¨¨Tŷ Newydd (p262) ¨¨Coed-y-Celyn Hall (p244) #\ #\ #\ #Y l r d #] o g y y y s l er l e # ä d r e n e e u g d o o e i l i r d ri y 1 v t i # \ b l y m a r R o o p #\ # d l au n o 470 n n ad t a # \ n b

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