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Snowdonia & the Llŷn

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Snowdonia & the Llŷn © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SNOWDONIA & THE LLŶN 3 PERFECT DAYS DAY 1 // CONQUER THE MOUNTAIN Check the weather forecast before making an assault on Snowdon (p226). If you’re fit, catch the Snowdon Sherpa bus to Pen-y-Pass and take the Pyg Track (p227). Time your descent via the Rhyd Ddu Path to catch the Welsh Highland Railway (p244) back to Caernarfon. If you’re not up for climbing, head to Llanberis and take the Snowdon Mountain Railway (p227). You’ll be up and down the mountain in 2½ hours, leaving plenty of time to check out the National Slate Museum (p230) and Dolbadarn Castle (p231) before stocking up on mead at Snowdon Honey Farm (p231). Head to Caer- narfon and watch the sunset over the Menai Strait from beside the city walls before dining at the Black Boy Inn (p235). DAY 2 // BE A PILGRIM Spend the morning exploring Caernarfon Castle (p233) before heading for the Llŷ n Peninsula. Ideally you’ll have prebooked a boat to Bardsey but if they’re not running, make do with gazing at the island from Braich-y-Pwll (p239). Abersoch (p241), Cric- cieth (p243) and Porthmadog (p244) are good places to stop for the night, but Harlech (p218) has the best restaurants – along with another World Heritage castle. DAY 3 // A SCENIC OVERLOAD Wherever you ended up, take the scenic A498 through the Pass of Aberglaslyn and back into the national park. Spend the day pottering along the route between Beddge- lert (p228) and Betws-y-Coed (p222), stopping at the lakes, lookouts and falls. Betws makes a wonderfully atmospheric coda to a Snowdonia stay. 206 SNOWDONIA & THE LL ŶN LONELYPLANET.COM SNOWDONIA & THE LLŶN CAERNARFON CASTLE p233 A Byzantine show of strength beside the Menai Strait N Isle of Ŷ L Anglesey L E H !0 Plas Menai #\ T & SNOWDON p226 Caernarfon #] I A N O Wales rises to a crescendo at this D beautiful, surprisingly W Dinas #\ O accessible, peak N S 0¸A499 Penygroes #\ Caernarfon Bay Clynnog #\ Fawr Trefor Pont Glas #\ WELSH HIGHLAND #\ RAILWAY p245 Yr Eifl (560m)$ 0¸A487 A (nearly) coast-to-coast alpine Porth #\ Llithfaen Dinllaen #\Pistyll train journey you'll never forget 0¸A499 Morfa Nefyn #\ #\Nefyn Llanystumdwy #\ Penarth "S #\ Fawr Criccieth Tudweiloig #\ 0¸B4415 #\ Pwllheli 0¸B4417 Llŷn BRAICH-Y-PWLL p239 Peninsula #\ Llanbedrog The Llŷn gazes towards the holy Porth Oer 0¸B4413 Abersoch Bay island from this magical land's end #\ Rhiw #\ Cardigan Aberdaron Abersoch Bay Braich-y- #\ Hell's Pwll Mouth St Tudwal's Aberdaron (Porth Bay Neigwl) Bardsey Island GETTING AROUND Driving through this region involves zigzagging around mountains on well-kept, exceedingly scenic, minor roads. A network of regular and heritage lines makes a rail-based itinerary appealing. The Cambrian Coast Line connects Machynlleth to Pwllheli, via Porthmadog, where the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways head to Blaenau Ffestiniog and (by the time you're reading this) Caernarfon. From Blaenau the Conwy Valley Line heads through Betws-y-Coed to Llandudno. Pwllheli is the hub for Llŷn buses, while Snowdon Sherpa services zip around Snowdonia. 206 SNOWDONIA & THE LL ŶN LONELYPLANET.COM SNOWDONIA & THE LLŶN CAERNARFON CASTLE p233 A Byzantine show of strength beside the Menai Strait N Isle of Ŷ L Anglesey L E H !0 Plas Menai #\ T & SNOWDON p226 Caernarfon #] I A N O Wales rises to a crescendo at this D beautiful, surprisingly W Dinas #\ O accessible, peak N S 0¸A499 Penygroes #\ Caernarfon Bay Clynnog #\ Fawr Trefor Pont Glas #\ WELSH HIGHLAND #\ RAILWAY p245 Yr Eifl (560m)$ 0¸A487 A (nearly) coast-to-coast alpine Porth #\ Llithfaen Dinllaen #\Pistyll train journey you'll never forget 0¸A499 Morfa Nefyn #\ #\Nefyn Llanystumdwy #\ Penarth "S #\ Fawr Criccieth Tudweiloig #\ 0¸B4415 #\ Pwllheli 0¸B4417 Llŷn BRAICH-Y-PWLL p239 Peninsula #\ Llanbedrog The Llŷn gazes towards the holy Porth Oer 0¸B4413 Abersoch Bay island from this magical land's end #\ Rhiw #\ Cardigan Aberdaron Abersoch Bay Braich-y- #\ Hell's Pwll Mouth St Tudwal's Aberdaron (Porth Bay Neigwl) Bardsey Island GETTING AROUND Driving through this region involves zigzagging around mountains on well-kept, exceedingly scenic, minor roads. A network of regular and heritage lines makes a rail-based itinerary appealing. The Cambrian Coast Line connects Machynlleth to Pwllheli, via Porthmadog, where the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways head to Blaenau Ffestiniog and (by the time you're reading this) Caernarfon. From Blaenau the Conwy Valley Line heads through Betws-y-Coed to Llandudno. Pwllheli is the hub for Llŷn buses, while Snowdon Sherpa services zip around Snowdonia. LONELYPLANET.COM SNOWDONIA & THE LL ŶN 207 0 20km 0 10mi les NATIONAL SLATE DISTANCE CHART (miles) MUSEUM p230 Note: Distances are 23 Betws-y-Coed approximate The sculpted mountainside starts Porthmadog 20 24 the story which this engaging museum completes Bala 43 22 28 Dolgellau 40 31 24 18 n e d g l a Bangor r f o o d o a #\ a C a B #] Rowen r n y - m a e s - r t h 0¸B5106 C w o S GreenWood Carnedd e t P N Forest Park Llewelyn #\ Dolgarrog B O # Bethesda W #\ #\ (1064m) $ D Y Felinheli C o O National Slate Llyn Cowlyd n N w I Museum Reservoir y Ceunant 0¸A5 #\ Llanrwst A #\ "S Gwydyr & #\ Snowdon GlyderCapel Forest T Llanberis Curig H #\ Fach #\ #C Betws- E A4086 $ Llyn 0¸ Swallow #\ y-Coed L L Cwellyn #\ Pen-y-Pass Falls Ŷ C N Rhyd Mt Snowdon o n w #\ Ddu $ (1085m) y Beddgelert Nant 0¸A470 #\ Pentrefoelas #\ Forest Gwynant #\ Penmachno Park # BETWS-Y-COED p222 #\ # Dinas Emrys Beddgelert Sygun CopperMine Blaenau #\ Ffestiniog Walk through a postcard of stone 0¸B4407 Tanygrisiau cottages and cascading rivers 0¸A498 Garreg Tremadog #\ #\ Llan #\ Ffestiniog 0¸A4212 Frongoch Porthmadog T #\ #\ r e w Portmeirion Llyn e Vale # #\ Portmeirion Trawsfynydd y r Bala of Edeirion Traeth n #\ Bach #\ Talsarnau #\ Trawsfynydd Tremadog Llyn Tegid 0¸B4391 Bay E d Snowdonia e n National (Bala Lake) #\ Harlech 0¸A470 Park #\ Llanuwchllyn Llanfair #\ Pen-y- Coed-y- #\ 0¸A494 Bont Brenin 0¸A496 Forest n i o n Coed Llyn Dyffryn W Efyrnwy Ardudwy #\ Garth Cymer GellNature Llanelltyd "b Abbey Tal-y-Bont Reserve #\ #\ #\ y # v e #\ Dolgellau o Llanfihangel y Pennant #\ D #\ Penmaenpool Barmouth # Cader Arthog Bog $ Dyfi Fairbourne Idris #\ #\ Nature Forest Mallwyd Reserve (893m) # 0¸A493 0¸B4405 Abergynolwyn #\ Corris 0¸A490 HARLECH p218 #\ Dolgoch "r Nant #\ Gwernol Cliff edge views, a famous castle #\ n i Llwyngwern n #C and great places to eat s y D y Dolgoch Dovey Tywyn #\ Falls Valley #\ Machynlleth 208 SNOWDONIA & THE LL ŶN GETTING STARTED LONELYPLANET.COM SNOWDONIA & THE LLŶN GETTING STARTED MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME This part of Wales really packs it in, from rugged mountain trails and coastal paths to World Heritage castles and historic train lines. N Ŷ L L It’s dominated by Snowdonia National Park, where the mightiest E H T peaks south of Scotland scrape moody skies. With such a formid- & I A N able mountain shield, it’s little wonder that the much less visited O D W Ll ŷ n Peninsula has held tightly to its language and culture. In fact O N S the county of Gwynedd, which covers most of this region, has the highest proportion of Welsh speakers in the country – over 76%. In many ways, this northwestern corner of Wales distils the very es- sence of Welshness – just don’t mention that to the folks in Cardiff ! TOP COURSES CANOLFAN TRYWERYN NATIONAL WHITEWATER CENTRE Hurtle down the River Tryweryn in a rubber raft (p220). PARC GLYNLLIFON Try slate shaping, blacksmithing, appliqué or wood carving at a Craft Taster Day (p237). PLAS MENAI Learn to sail, kayak or windsurf on the calm waters of the Menai Strait (p236). PLAS Y BRENIN NATIONAL MOUNTAIN CENTRE Unleash your inner mountain goat, with instruction in rock climbing and mountain- eering (p226). SNOWBIKERS Learn to mountain bike or take a guided tour (%430628; www.snowbikers.com; per day £60). TŶ SIAMAS Be trained to manipulate a mandolin, twang a telyn (harp) or twiddle a ffi dl (violin) at the National Centre for Welsh Folk Music (p212). WELSH LANGUAGE & HERITAGE CENTRE Take a crash course in Cymraeg and get a grip on one of the oldest living languages in Europe (p237). LONELYPLANET.COM SNOWDONIA & THE LL ŶN GETTING STARTED 209 GETTING AWAY FROM TOP RESTAURANTS IT ALL CASTLE RESTAURANT & Mawddach Estuary Wetlands and ARMOURY BAR woodlands edge the river and although Big Caribbean flavours come to little old S you’re never far from the road, it’s a N Harlech (p219). O peaceful place to stretch your legs (p215). W D CASTLE COTTAGE O Gwydyr Forest Walking and mountain- N French technique brought to bear on A I biking paths criss-cross the forest sur- & Welsh classics (p219). T rounding Betws-y-Coed (p225). H E TYDDYN LLAN L Snowdon’s Southern Approaches Ŷ L While the summit and the tracks leading Highly rated country restaurant off ering N from Llanberis and Pen-y-Pass can get a palpable sense of occasion (p222). log-jammed in summer, the other half of BISTRO BETWS-Y-COED the mountain is much quieter (p227). A bastion for Welsh cooking, traditional Ll ŷ n Peninsula It’s much less visited and modern (p224). than Snowdonia National Park; wander POACHERS RESTAURANT its forgotten corners on the Llŷn Coastal Path and the Edge of Wales Walk (p241). Traditional Welsh dishes married with exotic flavours (p243). ADVANCE PLANNING RESOURCES Snowdon Mountain Railway With the new visitor centre now open at the Abersoch & Ll ŷ n Tourism (www.aber summit, it’s best to book well ahead to sochandllyn.co.uk) In-depth tourism informa- secure your place on the train (p227).
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