Princes of Gwynedd Guidebook

Princes of Gwynedd Guidebook Discover the legends of the mighty princes of Gwynedd in the awe-inspiring landscape of North Wales 2 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK © Conwy County Borough Council Borough County © Conwy Front Cover: Criccieth Castle Criccieth Cover: Front This page: Dolwyddelan Castle Dolwyddelan This page: © Cadw, Welsh Government (Crown Copyright) (Crown Government Welsh © Cadw,

Dolwyddelan Castle Inside this book Step into the dramatic, historic landscapes of Wales and discover the story of the princes of Gwynedd, Wales’ most successful medieval dynasty. These remarkable leaders were formidable warriors, shrewd politicians and generous patrons of literature and architecture. Their lives and times, spanning over 900 years, have shaped the country that we know today and left an enduring mark on the modern landscape. This guidebook will show you where to find striking castles, lost palaces and peaceful churches from the age of the princes.

www.snowdoniaheritage.info/princes 4 THE PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR © Sarah McCarthy © Sarah

Castell y Bere The princes of Gwynedd, at a glance

Here are some of our top recommendations: PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 5

Why not start your journey at the ruins of Deganwy Castle? It is poised on the twin rocky hilltops overlooking the mouth of the River Conwy, where the powerful 6th-century ruler of Gwynedd, Maelgwn ‘the Tall’, once held court. For more information, see page 15 © Princes of Gwynedd of © Princes

If it’s a photo opportunity you’re after, then Criccieth Castle, a much contested fortress located high on a headland above Tremadog Bay, is a must. For more information, see page 15 © Princes of Gwynedd of © Princes

If you prefer a remote, more contemplative landscape, make your way to Cymer Abbey, the Cistercian monastery where monks bred fine horses for Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, known as Llywelyn ‘the Great’. For more information, see page 16 © Princes of Gwynedd of © Princes

Castell y Bere, overlooking the Dysynni Valley, is one of the most atmospheric ruins in Wales. This fortress once defended the southern boundary of Gwynedd’s mountainous heartland. For more information, see page 16 © Crown Copyright, Copyright, © Crown RCAHMW

To delve into the courtly life of the princes, head for Llys At a glance Rhosyr. Here the remains of a royal palace have been excavated recently. For more information, see page 17 © David Longley © David

And be sure not to miss the exceptional, romantic ruins of Dolwyddelan Castle, built by Llywelyn the Great to defend his pastures and one of the key routes through Snowdonia. For more information, see page 17 © Princes of Gwynedd of © Princes

At Craflwyn, you’ll be thrilled to discover the origins of the national symbol of Wales - the Red Dragon - on the ancient hilltop site of Dinas Emrys. For more information, see page 22 © Sarah McCarthy © Sarah 6 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK © Conwy County Borough Council Borough County © Conwy PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 7

Contents

8 A four part history of the princes of Gwynedd

14 Key sites

18 Itineraries

35 Top five sites for...

36 Further Information

Left: Llys Euryn, Rhos on Sea Below: Dafydd ap Gruffudd being drawn by a horse in the course of his execution.

Penmon Priory The emergence of the kingdom of Gwynedd

According to legend, the kingdom of Gwynedd was founded in the 5th century by Cunedda Wledig, a chieftain from the north of Britain. This may seem like a strange connection, yet Wales and much of northern Britain shared a similar language and culture at the time. PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 9 How much do we know about what really happened?

Around AD 400 the Roman legions were withdrawn from Britain after nearly 300 years of occupation. In the power vacuum that followed, the area of present-day Wales broke up into small kingdoms, with leadership and land shared among a network of families. One of the earliest rulers of Gwynedd whose existence is confirmed in historical sources is Maelgwn. A formidable warrior, his principal court, or llys, may have been at Deganwy, and he died in 547, possibly of the plague. Our source of information about him is the text of a sermon by Gildas, a contemporary cleric – and it is scathingly critical of him. Gildas condemned Maelgwn as being the worst of five lamentable British rulers at the time, but Gwynedd the kingdom of The history of this is probably propaganda brought on by rumours of Maelgwn’s wavering commitment to Christianity. In fact Maelgwn seems to have been the patron of several early saints.

Defence of the realm – defeat of the Saxons, Vikings and Normans From the 7th century onwards, Gwynedd’s leaders faced frequent attacks from enemies outside Wales. In 616 King Cadwallon (reigned c. 625 to 634) defeated King Edwin of Northumbria, and in the centuries that followed the kingdom suffered onslaughts by Saxon and Viking forces. Rhodri Mawr, known as Rhodri ‘the Great’, defeated the Vikings in 856 and became one of Gwynedd’s most successful rulers, expanding his influence over much of Wales. The Norman conquest of Britain in 1066 brought a new enemy. Gruffudd ap Cynan was the first prince of Gwynedd to face the Normans in battle, in the 1080s. Raised in Swords, near Dublin, by a Welsh father and an Irish-Norse mother, he was determined to reclaim the kingdom that his grandfather had ruled. Gruffudd had a remarkable life. Captured by the Norman earl, Hugh of Chester, in 1081, he managed to escape after more than 10 years in captivity. With the help of the Norse king, Magnus Bareleg, and his fleet, Gruffudd managed to drive the Normans out of North Wales in around 1100. The latter part of Gruffudd’s reign is seen as a golden age in Gwynedd’s history, with reform in society and governance. According to his biography, Gruffudd had many new stone churches built such that ‘Gwynedd glittered then with lime-washed churches, like the firmament with the stars’. This prosperity and political stability continued when his son, Owain Gwynedd, succeeded Gruffudd upon the latter’s death in 1137. Despite opposition from the English king, Henry II, Gwynedd expanded under Owain’s leadership. By the time of his death in 1170 Owain controlled all of North Did you know? Wales, as well as some lands The gravestone of King to the west and south. In the Cadfan, the father of King last years of his reign he Cadwallon, can be seen in began to use the title ‘Ownis Llangadwaladr Walarium princeps’– ‘Owain, Church, Anglesey. The prince of Wales.’ Latin inscription honours Cadfan as the wisest of all kings.

10 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK The legacy of the princes of Gwynedd can be experienced through the cultural life and landscape of Wales to this day

Llywelyn the Great and his flourishing kingdom In the 13th century the princes of Gwynedd expanded their kingdom even further, often finding themselves in cycles of uneasy peace and conflict with the Anglo-Norman kings of England. The powerful leader of the first part of this period was Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, or Llywelyn ‘the Great’, who reigned from 1201 until his death in 1240. A grandson of Owain Gwynedd, Llywelyn took advantage of the power vacuum in Gwynedd that followed Owain’s death. He outwitted and defeated his uncle in battle, and when his cousin died he claimed full control of the kingdom. From that point on, Llywelyn’s greatest struggles were with the English throne. In 1205 he made a strategic and diplomatic marriage to Joan (Siwan in Welsh), the daughter of King John. Joan, often referred to as the ‘Lady of Wales’, was an influential woman who intervened as peacemaker between her father and her husband a number of times. Llywelyn found John’s successor, Henry III, easier to deal with, and ended his reign without losing any ground to England. Llywelyn was a great builder of castles, and fortresses at Criccieth, Castell y Bere, Dolwyddelan and Dolbadarn were all constructed during his reign. As an outward-looking leader, he was also a great benefactor of the Cistercian monastic order. His support of abbeys, such as the one at Aberconwy, where Conwy town stands today, was part of the way he linked Gwynedd to the wider religious and cultural scene across Europe.

1099-1137 Gruffudd ap Cynan 844–878 1039-1063 (nominal ruler 1080s 1246-1255 625–634 1201-1240 400 Rhodri Mawr Gruffudd ap Llywelyn and 1090s, absolute Power shared between 1282-1283 Maelgwn Gwynedd (Rhodri ‘the Great’) (from Powys, E Wales) ruler after driving out Llywelyn ab Iorwerth Llywelyn ap Gruffudd and Romans leave Wales (‘the Tall’) Normans) (Llywelyn ‘the Great’) his brother Owain Dafydd ap Gruffudd

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PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 11

Llywelyn the Last - Prince of all Wales Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, (or Llywelyn ‘the Last’) was the grandson of Llywelyn the Great. He came to the throne in 1255 and continued the expansion of Gwynedd. In 1267 the Treaty of Montgomery accorded him a status that none of his predecessors had quite achieved, when he was officially recognised as ‘Prince of Wales’. Llywelyn’s success drew the enmity of the English king, Edward I. Llywelyn married the infant Eleanor de Montfort, daughter of Simon de Montfort, who was Edward’s enemy and leader of the ‘Barons’ Revolt’ (1264–7). This marriage, which took place by proxy, was part and parcel of the alliance struck between Llywelyn and de Montford. However, when Eleanor was shipwrecked in 1275 en route from France to join her husband, she was captured and imprisoned in Windsor Castle by the king. Tensions simmered for years.

The final war with England broke out in 1282 after Llywelyn’s brother, Dafydd, attacked Gwynedd the kingdom of The history of Hawarden Castle – in response to Edward’s officials imposing English law in Wales. In a famous letter, sent from his court, or llys, at Abergwyngregyn, Llywelyn set out his reasons for going to war: ‘We fight because we are forced to fight, for we, and all Wales, are oppressed, subjugated, despoiled, reduced to servitude by the royal officers and bailiffs...’ Llywelyn’s death at the hands of the English, in an ambush near Builth Wells Did you know? in December 1282, sent his people into Owain Gwynedd was mourning and put to an end to the dream said to have 22 of a united, independent Wales. Dafydd children by four succeeded his brother to the leadership different women. of Gwynedd and continued the fight into the next year, but the English army was too powerful. Dafydd was captured, probably in the mountains of northern Snowdonia, and was executed gruesomely, being hanged, drawn and quartered in Shrewsbury.

The line of Gwynedd’s princely rulers had History come to an end.

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h n n t o t o s o o 400 600 800 a 1000 1100 1200 1300 f r f s b 520-547 825-844 outsiders rule Gwynedd 1137-1170 1240 - 1246 1255-1282 1255-1282 Legendary founder Merfyn Frych 942-950 c.1070-1090 Owain Gwynedd Dafydd ap Llywelyn Llywelyn ap Edward I’s conquest of Gwynedd – Hywel Dda Norman lords Gruﬀudd of Gwynedd; end of Cunedda Wledig (prince of Deheubarth, hold Gwynedd (Llywelyn Gwynedd’s SW Wales) ‘the Last’) independent gran dson of princely line. © Crown Copyright, The Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Commission The Royal Copyright, © Crown Fields to the west of Abergwyngregyn

Abergwyngregyn Dolbadarn Castle © Princes of Gwynedd of © Princes Copyright) (Crown Government Welsh © Cadw, The history of the kingdom of Gwynedd 13 , of Gwynedd’s Gwynedd’s , of PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK GWYNEDD OF PRINCES Gruffudd ab yr Ynad Goch, 1282 yr Ynad Goch, Gruffudd ab crime could defend himself by calling calling himself by defend crime could serious The more witnesses. character respected the more the allegation, This legal needed to be. the witness its time, for system was progressive not adopted were and similar laws centuries. for elsewhere early 10th century. A man accused of a a of A man accused early 10th century. of Wales, including Gwynedd, in the Gwynedd, in the including Wales, of Wales) who came to rule over most most who came to rule over Wales) was a prince of Deheubarth (south-west Deheubarth (south-west of was a prince Welsh law developed by Hywel Dda. He Dda. He Hywel by developed law Welsh Their rule was supported by a system of a system of Their rule was supported by included. pet cats were pet cats were years of marriage. marriage. of years Children and even and even Children husband after seven husband after seven if separating from her from if separating Did you know? woman to claim half of a to claim half of woman One Welsh law allowed a allowed law One Welsh couple’s joint possessions joint possessions couple’s

were often protected by impressive castles, such as Dolbadarn at the foot of Snowdon. Snowdon. of castles, such as Dolbadarn at the foot impressive by protected often were the livestock they supported, were central to the princely economy. As a result the ffriddoedd As a result economy. to the princely central supported, were they the livestock herds grazed. Cattle were currency in medieval Gwynedd, and these plots of land, along with Gwynedd, and these plots of in medieval currency were Cattle grazed. herds , where the princes’ the princes’ ffriddoedd, where called to mountain pastures was connected Each maerdref could include as many as 500 people and their horses. include as many as 500 people could entourage when they were in residence. It was a substantial undertaking, as the royal party as the royal It was a substantial undertaking, in residence. were when they entourage The population of each maerdref was expected to provide enough food for the prince and his and the prince for enough food to provide was expected each maerdref The population of allies and dignitaries, dispensing justice and collecting taxes. and collecting allies and dignitaries, dispensing justice princes and their retinue would travel around these llysoedd throughout the year, entertaining the year, these llysoedd throughout around travel would and their retinue princes Each maerdref had at its heart a llys – the court or palace at the centre of the royal estate. The estate. the royal of the centre at or palace had at its heart a llys – the court Each maerdref number of administrative areas. Each of these had at its centre a township, known as the maerdref. known a township, these had at its centre Each of areas. administrative number of works at court. at court. works Their territory was divided into a governing. way of Gwynedd had a distinctive of The princes The authors of these beautiful verses received generous royal patronage and performed their and performed patronage royal generous received these beautiful verses of The authors – the running of the kingdom Land and law Llywelyn’s elegy is just one of many such poems that survive from the time of the princes. princes. the the time of from poems that survive many such is just one of elegy Llywelyn’s of Aberffraw and Lord of Snowdon’. of and Lord Aberffraw of so much so that Llywelyn the Last’s grandfather, Llywelyn the Great, styled himself as ‘Prince as ‘Prince styled himself the Great, Llywelyn the Last’s grandfather, so much so that Llywelyn early rulers. During the heyday of the princes Aberffraw took on great symbolic significance, symbolic significance, took on great Aberffraw the princes of During the heyday early rulers. moving elegy. elegy. moving and patrons Poets Ynad Goch, wrote a Gruffudd ab yr poet, the Last was killed in 1282, his court When Llywelyn court, or llys – the most important on Anglesey Aberffraw to In it the poet refers

held Aberffraw by right.” Aberffraw held Welsh like a stone roof, of roof, stone a like line that the Welsh gate of Aberffraw. A lord, a prince oflord, a prince A ofgate the Aberffraw. and sorrow after the king, the oaken the oaken the king, after and sorrow “Cold is the heart in my breast for dread for dread breast my in heart is the “Cold © Cadw, Welsh Government (Crown Copyright) (Crown Government Welsh Cadw, © Fields to the west of Abergwyngregyn of Fields to the west 14 THE PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR © Princes of Gwynedd of © Princes

Deganwy Castle Key sites PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 15

Deganwy Castle Criccieth Castle Fortresses have occupied this windswept spot for centuries. The two rocky peaks overlooking the mouth of the River Conwy were first occupied in Roman times, and seem to have been used in the 6th century by the great ruler of Gwynedd, Maelgwn ‘the Tall’. Robert of Rhuddlan, a hated Norman overlord, is said to have built a castle here in the 1080s; it was later destroyed to prevent it falling into the hands of King John. Llywelyn the Great rebuilt the castle in 1213, but it was in turn demolished by his sons in 1245, to stop it being captured by Henry III. You can still see the base of the round tower of Llywelyn’s castle, and a section of its curtain wall on the larger of the two hills. Henry III rebuilt the castle, but Llywelyn the Last recaptured the fortification and demolished it for the last time in 1263. Today you can still walk around its tumbledown walls and gateways. By car: the twin peaks of Deganwy are less than 2 miles south of Llandudno on the © Sarah McCarthy © Sarah A546. No parking is available at the site. By train: Deganwy station is on the Conwy Criccieth Castle Valley line, from Llandudno or Llandudno A 14th-century poem described Criccieth Junction. From the train station the castle Castle, overlooking Cardigan Bay, as is a 10–15 mins walk. OS map reference SH the ‘bright fortress on the cliff top’. It’s 783 795. certainly stunningly situated, and still well

preserved. As you enter the castle through Key sites Possible likeness of Llywelyn the Great, found at the imposing gateway with its large round Deganwy Castle towers, look out for arrow slits high up in the walls. Criccieth is one of several castles built by Llywelyn the Great. His grandson, Llywelyn the Last, enlarged it, and probably also added the outer wall. In 1282, after English forces had conquered Gwynedd, Edward I’s army altered one of the towers to accommodate large catapults. By car: take the A497 to Criccieth from Porthmadog or Pwllheli. Roadside parking is available near the site, then there is a steep but short walk to the castle from the visitor centre. By train: Criccieth station, on the Shrewsbury - Machynlleth/Pwllheli line, is 400m away. Check the Cadw website for admission prices

Cymer Abbey Reconstructed Saintonge jug found at Castell y Bere Cymer Abbey was founded in 1198 by Maredudd ap Cynan, cousin and ally of Llywelyn the Great, and was supported by successive princes over the next century. The Cistercian monks based here were certainly industrious: as well as keeping sheep, they fished for salmon and bred horses. During the reign of Llywelyn the Great, the monks were expected to supply ‘two colts of a superior breed’ every year. You can still get a good idea of the size and shape of this simple church. Look out for the arches and the three tall lancet windows that survive at the eastern end. You can also spot the nearby remains of the cloister. The abbey was damaged during the war with Edward I in 1282–3, and the monks received £80 in compensation from the English king. In 1537 the suppression of monasteries under Henry VIII brought an end to this tranquil abbey. Much of the site was destroyed; a house and farm were built over

part of it, using some of its stone. © National Museum Wales

By car: Cymer Abbey is signposted from the A470 Castell y Bere 2 miles north of Dolgellau. Check the Cadw Built by Llywelyn the Great in 1221, website for further details. Castell y Bere looks out over the beautiful Dysynni Valley. The castle owes its origin to a family dispute. Llywelyn the Great was displeased with the way in which his son Gruffudd was ruling Meirionnydd and Ardudwy, so he took back control of these territories. He then imprisoned Gruffudd and built a new castle for himself here. Castell y Bere was one of the last fortresses in which Dafydd ap Gruffudd held out against the advance of Edward I after the death of his brother, Llywelyn the Last, in 1282.

By car: the ruins are located near Llanfihangel y Pennant, off the B4405, 6½ miles north-east of Tywyn or by back road from Abergynolwyn. Parking is available near the site. By train: Tywyn station, on the Cambrian Coast route, is 7 miles away, or you can travel the Talyllyn narrow gauge line to Abergynolwyn which is 2½ miles away (www.talyllyn.co.uk). Check Cymer Abbey the Cadw website for the opening times. © Princes of Gwynedd of © Princes PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 17

Dolwyddelan Castle Llys Rhosyr Dolwyddelan Castle, high on a rocky ridge At Llys Rhosyr, near Newborough on overlooking the Lledr Valley, was built in Anglesey, you can see the only surviving the 13th century by Llywelyn the Great. It material remains of a llys, or princely court. was constructed to defend an important Archaeological excavations in the 1990s route into Snowdonia and to protect the uncovered the foundations of a series of halls royal cattle pastures, a vital source of enclosed by a rectangular wall. princely wealth. Llywelyn the Last used The halls were probably thatched, but it Dolwyddelan as a fortress and modified is not certain whether the footings were the original fortifications. The castle was for timber-framed or stone buildings. The finally captured in 1283 by Edward I, one National Museum Wales has decided on the year after Llywelyn’s death. Enthusiastic latter for its reconstruction of the main hall Victorian restoration work added new at St Fagans’ Museum. Smaller buildings floors and a roof to the tower, along with stood nearby; one of them was connected the distinctive battlements. The west to the main hall by a passageway and may tower, probably added by Edward I, now have been a private bed-chamber. So far lies in ruins. one-quarter of the site has been excavated, revealing pottery and coins as well as the By car: the castle is located 1 mile south of buildings. Who know what secrets are still Dolwyddelan village and 5 miles north of waiting to be discovered? Blaenau Ffestiniog on the A470 to Betws y Coed. Parking is available near the site. By By car: Newborough is on the A4080 on the train: Dolwyddelan station is on the Llan- Isle of Anglesey. At the school take the first left, 1 dudno–Blaenau Ffestiniog route, just over 1 and continue straight for 3 mile. Llys Rhosyr mile from the castle. Check the Cadw website is situated on the right. Parking is limited, we for the opening times. recommend that you walk from the village.

Dolwyddelan Castle Key sites

The ruins at Llys Rhosyr © Conwy County Borough Council Borough County © Conwy Longley © David 18 THE PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR © Sarah McCarthy © Sarah

Nantgwynant, with Dinas Emrys in a sea of mist Itineraries We have put together some great itineraries that link places associated with the princes of Gwynedd, and use various modes of transport. PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 19

How to use this guide The following itineraries give suggestions of routes you can follow by various modes of transport, an indication of the level of physical effort required and an indication of how long it will take to complete the tour. Remember to visit www.snowdoniaheritage.info/princes to find out more about the historic sites featured here.

Which mode of transport?

Each itinerary lists the modes of transport available to reach the featured sites. Look for these symbols as a quick reference:

by car

by train www.traveline-cymru.info

by bus www.traveline-cymru.info

by bicycle http://www.sustrans.org.uk/wales/national-cycle-network/free-leaflets-and-maps Itineraries

on foot

How difficult is the route?

easy easy easy accessibleeasy by car and public transport, involving shorter walking distances. easy easy easy easy easy easy moderate moderate moderate moderate moderate moderate somemoderate physical effort is needed to tackle these routes. moderate moderate moderate difficult difficult difficult difficult difficult difficultdifficult difficult difficult requiresdifficult a more strenuous effort; suitable for those wanting more of a workout. Amlwch

A5025 A5025 Holyhead Llandudno Prestatyn Anglesey Rhyl F A548 Penmon l i Deganwy n A55 t Llangefni Beaumaris s Llandudno h A55 A5 Conwy Abergele i Junction r Bangor Llanfairfechan e A548 Abergwyngregyn A541 Aberﬀraw A55 A4080 Conwy

A470 A548 Newborough A4244 A544 A5 Trefriw Caernarfon Llanberis Llanrwst

A543 Ruthin A4086 Betws y Coed A470 Denbighshire A498 A525 A4085 Pentrefoelas Clynnog Fawr Gwynedd Dolwyddelan A494

A487 Beddgelert A5104 Blaenau Ffestiniog A499 A5 A498 Llyn Celyn Nefyn Criccieth

A497 B4417 Porthmadog Snowdonia Bala Carn Fadryn Pwllheli National Llyn Tegid B4413 A470 Park A494 A499 Harlech Abersoch Aberdaron

A496

Ynys Enlli Bardsey Island Barmouth Dolgellau Powys

A493 Mallwyd A458

A487 Abergynolwyn NORTH

A489 0 miles 10 Tywyn A470 A493 Machynlleth Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2013 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK 21

Amlwch Itinerary 1 Dinas Emrys page 22 A5025 A5025 Beddgelert - Craflwyn

Holyhead Llandudno Prestatyn Itinerary 2 Anglesey Rhyl F A548 The princes of Gwynedd in Penmon l i the Conwy Valley page 24 Deganwy n A55 t Llandudno - Llanrwst - Betws y Coed Llangefni Beaumaris s Llandudno h A55 A5 Conwy Abergele i Itinerary 3 Junction r Bangor Llanfairfechan e Up the Conwy Valley and A548 around the castles page 26 Abergwyngregyn A541 Llandudno - Deganwy - Llandudno - Llanrwst - Aberﬀraw A55 A4080 Conwy Betws y Coed - Dolwyddelan

A470 A548 Newborough A4244 A544 Itinerary 4 A5 Trefriw Along the Menai Strait page 27 Caernarfon Llanberis Llanrwst Caernarfon - Llanberis - Bangor

A543 Ruthin Itinerary 5 A4086 Betws y Coed Over the bridges page 27 Bangor - Anglesey A470 Denbighshire A498 A525 A4085 Itinerary 6 Gwynedd Dolwyddelan Pentrefoelas A494 Clynnog Fawr The Dysynni Valley driving tour page 28 A487 Dolgellau - Abergwynolwyn - Tywyn Beddgelert A5104 Blaenau Ffestiniog A499 Itinerary 7 A5 The Dysynni Valley cycle tour page 28 A498 Nefyn Llyn Celyn Dolgellau - Abergwynolwyn - Tywyn Criccieth

A497 Itinerary 8 B4417 Porthmadog Snowdonia Bala The Great Ll^yn road trip page 30 Carn Fadryn National Caernarfon - Clynnog Fawr - Carn Fadryn – Pwllheli Aberdaron Llyn Tegid B4413 A470 A494 A499 Park Harlech Itinerary 9 Abersoch The island of 20,000 saints page 31 Aberdaron Aberdaron - Bardsey Island

A496 Itinerary 10 The Grand tour page 32 Ynys Enlli Conwy - Caernarfon - Beddgelert Bardsey Island - Porthmadog - Blaenau Ffestiniog - Barmouth Dolgellau Powys Dolwyddelan - Betws y Coed - Llanrwst - Llandudno Junction - Conwy

A493 Mallwyd Itinerary 11 A458 The Llywelyn the Great tour page 34 A487 Bangor - Caernarfon - Llanberis/Dolbadarn Abergynolwyn - Pen y Pass - Nantgwynant - view of Dinas NORTH Emrys - Beddgelert - Llanfrothen - Blaenau A489 Ffestiniog - Dolwyddelan - Betws y Coed - Llanrwst - Trefriw - Conwy - Sychnant Pass - 0 miles 10 Tywyn A470 Abergwyngregyn - Bangor A493 Machynlleth Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2013 22 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK

Itinerary 1: Dinas Emrys Beddgelert - Craflwyn Duration: ONE DAY

It was on the rocky outcrop of Dinas Emrys What about the later occupation of Dinas that the enduring symbol of Wales, the Red Emrys? There was a medieval keep on the Dragon, first emerged. site, thought to have been constructed at the end of the 12th century when there was a The story goes that Vortigern, a powerful struggle for supremacy among the princes of ruler of Britain in the 5th century AD, was Gwynedd after Owain Gwynedd’s death. The rallying against Anglo-Saxon invaders. hill certainly occupies an important strategic He sought to build a stronghold on the position, guarding one of the main routes strategic hill. Each day he set his builders through Snowdonia, and at that time was to work, and each morning they woke to situated only 2½ miles from the sea. find their work undone. Piles of rubble lay where newly built walls had stood. The Today visitors to Dinas Emrys can see the magicians who advised Vortigern suggested ramparts of the ancient hillfort, the stone a solution: he must sacrifice ‘a fatherless foundations of the medieval tower and the boy’ and sprinkle his blood upon the site silted pool below. Excavation showed the where he wished to build. pool was once a timber-lined cistern; could there be a link between this watery area and An appropriate boy was quickly found. Before the legendary dragons’ lake? his blood could be shed, however, the boy convinced Vortigern that the problem lay TRAVEL: Take the train to Beddgelert and with the site he had chosen. Beneath the either walk, cycle or take the bus the 1.2 hill, he explained, was an underground lake miles along the A498 to the National Trust containing two dragons. Digging proved the car park at Craflwyn. The way-marked boy to be right, and when they were released walking route up and down Dinas Emrys the two dragons – one red, one white – fought takes about 2 hours (c.2 miles), and is rough each other. The red dragon was eventually and steep in places. victorious, and this symbolic defeat of easy easy easy the Saxons by the native British people is commemorated on the Welsh flag to this day. moderate moderate moderate

Vortigern named the castle which he finally difficult difficult difficult

built after the boy who had advised him. Watkin Path & NORTH Hafod y Llan Watkin Path & He was called Myrddin Emrys – but today Hafod y Llan Waterfall we know him as Merlin, the great and wise Coed Craﬂwyn Caernarfon Snowdonia National Park adviser of King Arthur. Hafod y Porth A498 Craﬂwyn Hall Beyond the myth, archaeology has revealed m w

clear evidence of early occupation on the Craﬂwyn y n o Dinas hill. Exotic pottery and fine glass have been Af Welsh Emrys Highland discovered – high-status imports from the lyn Railway las Cae Du G Mediterranean and southern France, dating on Canolfan caravan & Af Nantgwynant camping A498 & Capel Curig from the 5th to 7th centuries. The remains of Hebog stone banks or ramparts at the western edge BEDDGELERT

of the hilltop possibly date to the same time, A498 Llyn Dinas & Llyndy Isaf although the fortified use of the site probably Sygun Pont Glaslyn,Aberglaslyn, St Mary's Church Copper Mine goes back to the Iron Age. Porthmadog and 0 metres 500 Tremadog (site of Augustinian Priory)

Dinas Emrys

Watkin Path & NORTH Hafod y Llan Watkin Path & Hafod y Llan Waterfall Coed Craﬂwyn Caernarfon Snowdonia National Park Hafod y Porth A498 Craﬂwyn Hall m

Craﬂwyn y n fo Dinas Welsh A Emrys Highland lyn Railway las Cae Du G on Canolfan caravan & Af Nantgwynant camping A498 & Capel Curig Hebog BEDDGELERT

A498 Llyn Dinas & Llyndy Isaf Sygun Pont Glaslyn,Aberglaslyn, St Mary's Church Porthmadog and 0 metres 500 Copper Mine Tremadog (site of Augustinian Priory)

© Crown copyright and database rights 2013 Ordnance© Crown Surveycopyright 100023387. and database Use rightsof this 2013 data isOrdnance subject toSurvey terms 100023387. and conditions. Use of this data is subject to terms and conditions. 24 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK

Itinerary 2: The princes of Gwynedd in the Conwy valley Llandudno - Llanrwst - Betws y Coed Duration: ONE DAY

Visit the historic market town of Llanrwst and TRAVEL: Take the train from Llandudno, enjoy a moment of quiet contemplation at changing at Llandudno Junction station to Gwydir Chapel, attached to St Grwst’s Church. travel up the Conwy Valley to Llanrwst, or take Here rests the stone coffin of Llywelyn the the no.19 bus from Llandudno Junction train Great (1173–1240), who ruled most of Wales station. Jump back on the train to Betws y during the early 13th century. Originally Coed to visit St Michael’s Church. Finish your buried at Aberconwy Abbey, Conwy, journey at Betws y Coed Tourist Information Llywelyn’s coffin was later moved to Maenan Centre, where you will find a small exhibition Abbey near Llanrwst, after Edward I forced about the ages of the princes. the Cistercian monks to move there from Conwy in 1283. easy easy easy At Betws y Coed, stop at St Michael’s Church next to the railway museum to meet a moderate moderate moderate descendant of the princes. Inside the 14th- century church is a life-sized limestone difficult difficult difficult carving in battle armour. The effigy is thought to be that of Gruffydd ap Dafydd Goch, who fought alongside the Black Prince at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356. Gruffydd was the grandson of Dafydd ap Gruffydd, the last prince of an independent Wales.

Trefriw Maenan B5106 NORTH Abbey and 0 metres 400 North Llandudno IN L Llanrwst FE P E Station E N TR Princes of Pont y Pair Gwynedd exhibition Capel Ri NORTH Curig A5 ve A470 Abergele r L lugwy S T A A548 T H I O O L Y R N H i E St Michael’s v R A er O D D C A R A D O Church on A O w D R y T N ST S H O IG I NB H T DE Llanrwst A C

T R W S U St Grwst’s Station B A H T R C L

Church I D IN D

Gwydyr G L G

O O R

R Ancaster Square S T i

i LLANRWST v Forest v

S e

e TR r r EE Pont T C

o Fawr BETWS Y COED n w

y Gorsedd A5 Circle B5106 Pentrefoelas and A470 A470 0 metres 200 (for Llanrwst) Trefriw Betws y Coed B5427

Contains Ordnance Survey data ©Contains Crown copyright Ordnance and Survey database data right © Crown2013Contains copyright Ordnance and database Survey data right © Crown2013 copyright and database right 2013 Itineraries 25

THE PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR GWYNEDD OF PRINCES THE

Sarcophagus of Llywelyn the Great, Llanrwst the Great, Llywelyn of Sarcophagus © Sarah McCarthy Sarah © 26 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK

Itinerary 3: 0 metres 200

B R Y N L U Llanrhos P U Up the Conwy S

RO AD

Valley and around NORTH Plas the castles Dolau Llandudno The Llandudno - Deganwy - Llandudno - Vardre Llanrwst - Betws y Coed - Dolwyddelan A546 Duration: TWO DAYS Deganwy Castle Bwlch Farm

Take a relaxing two-day tour by train along S TA TIO the Conwy Valley, stopping to visit the N R OA DEGANWY princes’ castles at Deganwy, Dolwyddelan D B5115 and neighbouring Tomen Castell. Sited on an Llandudno Junction impressive rocky mound, now inaccessible and database rights 2013 Ordnance copyright © Crown this data is subject to terms and 100023380 Use of Survey conditions. © Crown copyright and database rights 2013 Ordnance Survey 100023380 TA to visitors, Tomen Castell may be the true Porth Penrhyn N

Use of this data is subject to termsand and Llandygai conditions. Y Menai Bridge A5 F birthplace of Llywelyn the Great. A55 Junction 9 Y N W

Gwynedd Museum E N T TRAVEL: Day one: Start at Llandudno and and Art Gallery T D A travel to the ruins of Deganwy Castle. An N H O I O LL R F A St Deiniol’s D LAN R hour’s circular walking route to the castle A G Pedestrianised E Cathedral H D T Y A E begins at Bryn Lupus road in Llanrhos, L O E d O R e R ST is H L H an Bangor O HIG tri details of which can be easily downloaded I es University IN Ped E D D A O from the Conwy County Borough Council R LE IL website (www.conwy.gov.uk – visit the A5 KV SAC NORTH

T Countryside and Rights of Way pages). Once E E R A5 T S you have enjoyed Deganwy, take the train CENTRAL H IG H or bus down into Llanrwst to visit St Grwst’s S F BANGOR T AR A R T A I R Church. Then head to Betws y Coed and O RO N AD spend a relaxing evening in this beautiful R O A 0 metres 200 village, taking time to visit the Tourist D A4087 A55 Junction 10

Information Centre’s exhibitions. and copyright data © Crown Survey Ordnance Contains database right 2013 Day two: Take the train to Dolwyddelan Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2013 in the morning. A 1-mile walk westwards SnowdoniaNORTH along the A470, in lovely countryside, National Park will bring you to the impressive ruins of 0 metres 400 Dolwyddelan Castle and its older, more enigmatic brother, Tomen Castell. The last Dolwyddelan Betws y Coed stop on the train line is Blaenau Ffestiniog, Castle with its incredible slate-quarrying landscape. easy easy easy A470 Tomen iver Lle Castell R dr Dolwyddelan moderate moderate moderate Aberystwyth

difficult difficult difficult

Snowdonia National Park

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easy

diﬃcult

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PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK GWYNEDD OF PRINCES

easy

diﬃcult moderate

Anglesey’s main villages are well well are main villages Anglesey’s TRAVEL: See Bangor. buses from regular by served 0870 608 or call www.anglesey.gov.uk a walk of Priory will require 2608. Penmon the bus taken have just under 2 miles if you is also to Beaumaris. Further information www.walkingnorthwales.co.uk, at available your to link can also find out how you where the Wales of to the wonders visit Anglesey Path. Coastal Travel easily between Caernarfon, Caernarfon, between easily Travel TRAVEL: car or using either by Bangor, Llanberis and that shuttle bus services the frequent one of enjoy While on the road, this area. through Mountains; the Snowdonia of views dramatic used as grazing once were slopes the lower cattle the princes’ for (friddoedd) pastures As you Dolbadarn Castle. their base at from over gaze Strait, alongside the Menai travel and its Anglesey of landscape to the rolling as the ‘bread known Once of grain. fields grain provided Anglesey Wales’, of basket Snowdonia. for and and bread the Lon Las Menai option: Follow Cycle to Caernarfon from route the cycle Cycleway, is The route along the Menai Strait. Bangor, 10 miles (with some uphill stretches).

ONE DAY Duration: – Bangor – Llanberis Caernarfon Along the Menai Strait Strait the Menai Along 4: Itinerary

DAYS OR TWO ONE Duration: – Anglesey Bangor Over the bridges 5: Itinerary seat of the princes of Gwynedd dynasty. of the princes seat of well as Aberffraw – the important early as Aberffraw well of Joan, ‘Lady of Wales’, can be visited, as Wales’, Joan, ‘Lady of of Beaumaris, where the stone sarcophagus the stone sarcophagus Beaumaris, where If time permits you may also want to visit may also If time permits you and the outline of the hall is now visible. the hall is now and the outline of Rhosyr, Newborough has been excavated has been excavated Newborough Rhosyr, princes of Gwynedd. The royal court at Llys court Gwynedd. The royal of princes of a church surviving from the time of the the time of surviving from a church of Penmon, the finest example in North Wales example in North the finest Penmon, their courts. Visit the Church and Priory of Visit the Church their courts. archaeological remains of a llys, one of of remains archaeological spiritual places on Anglesey and on Anglesey spiritual places a couple of days enjoying the princes’ the princes’ days enjoying of a couple Starting from Bangor Cathedral, spend Cathedral, Bangor Starting from Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery. in Bangor, explore the treasures of of the treasures explore in Bangor, gives the modern city its name. While the modern city its name. gives land; the word for this is ‘bangor’, which this is ‘bangor’, for land; the word erected a wattle fence around his new new his around a wattle fence erected who built a monastery here. Deiniol here. who built a monastery named after the 6th-century nobleman named after the 6th-century the magnificent St Deiniol’s Cathedral, Cathedral, St Deiniol’s the magnificent to the lovely city of Bangor and take in and take Bangor city of to the lovely brother Owain for 22 years. Move on Move 22 years. Owain for brother Llywelyn the Last imprisoned his the Last imprisoned Llywelyn of Dolbadarn, near Llanberis, where Dolbadarn, near Llanberis, where of area. Then travel inland to the fortress the fortress inland to travel Then area. story of Caernarfon and its surrounding and its surrounding Caernarfon story of you will find an exhibition telling the find an will you Edward I’s extraordinary castle; here castle; here extraordinary I’s Edward Caernarfon at Oriel Pendeitsh, opposite opposite at Oriel Pendeitsh, Caernarfon Start your adventure in historic adventure Start your

conditions.

Survey 100023380 Use of this data is subject to terms and and terms to subject is data this of Use 100023380 Survey © Crown copyright and database rights 2013 Ordnance Ordnance 2013 rights database and copyright Crown ©

28 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK

Itinerary 6: The Dysynni Valley driving tour Dolgellau – Abergwynolwyn – Tywyn Duration: ONE DAY

Take a day to enjoy the peaceful TRAVEL: Starting from Dolgellau, go by atmosphere of lovely Cymer Abbey car to Cymer Abbey to visit the abbey. The where Cistercian monks once farmed the site, which is under the custodianship of surrounding lands. Move on to explore the Cadw and is signposted, lies 2 miles north romantic ruins of Castell y Bere, perched of Dolgellau on a minor road off the A470. on a rocky spur below the slopes of Cader From here drive down the coast to Castell Idris. The castle was built by Llywelyn the y Bere, 2 miles north-east of the B4405 at Great after he took control of this area Abergynolwyn. back from his son. You may also wish to

visit the ancient Church of St Cadfan in easy easy easy Tywyn, where an inscribed stone of the 7th

or 8th century features the earliest known moderate moderate moderate written Welsh. difficult difficult difficult

Itinerary 7: The Dysynni Valley cycle tour Dolgellau – Abergwynolwyn – Tywyn Duration: ONE DAY

Take a day to explore this stunning valley TRAVEL: Cycle from Tywyn to Castell y Bere, on two wheels, stopping off at castles and then on to Abergynolwyn before heading along the way. back to Tywyn. This loop follows reasonably quiet roads (after the main roads at the beginning of the route) and enjoys beautiful scenery. The big hill between Castell y Bere and Abergynolwyn can be avoided by following a shorter section of the route from Tywyn to Castell y Bere. Visit the sustrans websiteeasy (www.sustrans.org.uk)easy easy to view the National Cycle Network relevant to this area. moderate moderate moderate

difficult difficult difficult

PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR 29

Betws y Coed A470 Harlech Cymer A494 Abbey NORTH Bontddu

Llanaber 0 miles 3 Dolgellau h A470 A496 ac dd aw A493 Cross Foxes M er iv Barmouth R s r i Arthog I d A487 i r a 893m Fairbourne d a C Friog Snowdonia National Park Llwyngwril Llanﬁhangel Tal y Llyn y Pennant Castell y Bere B4405 Corris Uchaf D y Corris s yn ni Abergynolwyn Rhoslefain A493 Llanegryn Dolgoch

Tonfanau ay lw ai Bryncrug R lyn y L Church of Tal St Cadfan Castell A489 Tywyn Pennal Cynfael y ve River Do Machynlleth

A493 Itineraries

Cycle tour History Driving tour Main line railway Steam railway A487 Aberdovey National Park boundary Aberystwyth Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2013 copyright data © Crown Survey Ordnance Contains Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2013

Castell y Bere

Itinerary 8: The Great Lly^n road trip Caernarfon - Clynnog Fawr - Carn Fadryn - Aberdaron Duration: ONE DAY

Travel down this stunning coastal stretch, TRAVEL: Starting at the exhibition at Oriel and take in some of North Wales’ most Pendeitsh (opposite the Castle), travel by car stunning and unspoilt landscapes as you to Clynnog Fawr (on the A499, and 20-mins discover the princes’ spiritual connections. drive from Caernarfon). From here, drive to This is the Pilgrims’ Way, a route taken by Garnfadryn and park at the chapel. It is a pilgrims travelling from St Winifride’s Well strenuous, 45-min walk up a footpath from at Holywell to the holy island of Ynys Enlli the chapel to the summit of the mountain. (Bardsey Island). You will see the charming Once you have conquered the mountain, if you have the energy, continue down to village of Clynnog Fawr, with its beautiful Aberdaron to visit St Hywyn’s Church, once 16th-century church dedicated to St a place of refuge for Gruffudd ap Cynan Beuno, as well as the magnificent remains (1055–1137). This routeeasy shouldeasy take a dayeasy to on Carn Fadryn. This Welsh castle (or complete. citadel) mentioned by Gerald of Wales sits easy moderateeasy moderateeasy moderate amid a huge Iron Age fort. End your journey at picturesque Aberdaron and St Hywyn’s moderate moderatedifficult moderatedifficult difficult Church which was a place of refuge for difficult difficult difficult Gruffudd ap Cynan, an important prince of half-Irish origins who lived between c.1055 and 1137.

NORTH

Madryn Dinas Castle

Coed Garn Fadryn

Carn Fadryn 371m Carn Fadryn Fort

Pwllheli Garn Bach 281m

Chapel Garnfadryn

B4415

0 mile 1 Penbodlas Botwnnog and Mynytho © Crown copyright and database rights 2013 Ordnance Survey 100023387. Use of this data is subject to terms and conditions. © Crown copyright and database rights 2013 Ordnance Survey 100023387. Use of this data is subject to terms and conditions. © Cadw, Welsh Government (Crown Copyright THE PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR 31

Bardsey Island

Itinerary 9: The island of 20,000 saints Aberdaron - Bardsey Island Duration: ONE DAY

Still have time to explore? Stay overnight TRAVEL: A day trip to Enlli from Porth in Aberdaron and spend the next day Meudwy is available (weather dependent) on Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli) to enjoy by advance booking. Contact the Tourist the peace and beauty of the island of Information Centre at Criccieth or Pwllheli, or ‘20,000 saints’. While there, visit St the National Trust Visitor Centre Porth y Swnt Mary’s Abbey, the monastery founded in Aberdaron (see rear cover). by St Cadfan. The island is still farmed, and is much visited by bird-watchers, easy easy easy especially in spring and autumn. moderate moderate moderate

32 PRINCES OF GWYNEDD GUIDEBOOK

Itinerary 10: The Grand tour Conwy - Caernarfon - Beddgelert - Porthmadog - Blaenau Ffestiniog - Dolwyddelan - Betws y Coed - Llanrwst - Llandudno Junction - Conwy Duration: THREE DAYS OR MORE

Enjoy a tour through the kingdom of mainline railway to Dolwyddelan. Here Gwynedd by train. You can start and you can walk or cycle the mile or so to the end this circular route at any point, and stunning Dolwyddelan Castle. make use of North Wales’ excellent rail From here, continue to Betws y Coed, and bus network to explore most of the which offers plenty of over-night sites described in this guidebook. If this accommodation, should you wish to stop overview whets your appetite, you can over here. At Betws y Coed you can visit St find more details on our website www. Michael’s Church before travelling further snowdoniaheritage.info/princes. along the line to Llanrwst (under ten TRAVEL: Start from Conwy railway minutes). Pause to take in the wonderful St station, after visiting the nearby princes Grwst’s Church, resting place of Llywelyn of Gwynedd exhibition in the Tourist the Great’s sarcophagus. The train Information Centre. Take the bus direct from Llanrwst will return you to Conwy from Conwy to Caernarfon; the bus stop (changing at Llandudno Junction), but is about 100 m uphill from the Tourist there is plenty of scope for stopping off Information Centre. From Caernarfon take to explore sites en route such as St Mary’s the Welsh Highland narrow-gauge steam Church (Trefriw), either on bike or on foot. railway to Beddgelert (1 hour), travelling Be aware that trains are infrequent along right through the heart of Snowdonia. some parts of the route, so it is worth After the spectacular climb to Rhyd Ddu spending some time planning your journey at the foot of Snowdon, hop off the train carefully against timetables. See our at the lovely village of Beddgelert. If you website for more details. are travelling with a bike, why not take a detour and head from Beddgelert into Nantgwynant and to Dinas Emrys (see easy easy easy itinerary 1 on page 22) Beddgelert offers a moderate moderate moderate selection of quality accommodation should Further information: Bicycles may be you decide to end your first day with an taken on thesedifficult train servicesdifficult freedifficult of charge overnight stop here. (groups of four or more should contact the From Beddgelert continue on the Welsh train company in advance). The Ffestiniog Highland Railway and steam down the and Highland Railways have restricted Aberglaslyn Pass to Porthmadog (55 service between 1 November and 1 May minutes). There you can change on to the each year. If visiting during these months Ffestiniog Railway and head for Blaenau you can use the Sherpa Bus Service (which Ffestiniog. This route is the charming does not carry bicycles) instead, but will heritage railway that once carried slate need to check timetables carefully (it has a from the Ffestiniog quarries down to restricted winter and Sunday service). For Porthmadog for export by sea. From further information and contact details, Blaenau Ffestiniog take the Conwy Valley see the rear cover of this guidebook. ItinerariesHistory 33 THE PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR GWYNEDD OF PRINCES THE

Itinerary 11 The Llywelyn the Great tour Bangor - Caernarfon - Llanberis/Dolbadarn - Pen y Pass - Nantgwynant - view of Dinas Emrys - Beddgelert - Llanfrothen - Blaenau Ffestiniog - Dolwyddelan - Betws y Coed - Llanrwst - Trefriw - Conwy - Sychnant Pass - Abergwyngregyn - Bangor Duration: TWO, THREE OR seven days (for a more leisurely pace)

An epic route for keen cyclists! This Blaenau Ffestiniog, Betws y Coed and tour is designed for those who want to Conwy. Remember to visit exhibitions visit as many classic princely locations about the princes of Gwynedd at Conwy, as possible, and who are ready for an Betws y Coed, Caernarfon and Beddgelert inspiring cycling holiday. The entire route (see easyrear cover).easy easy can be completed in two or three days by the keen cyclist, or extended over a moderate moderate moderate

week at a more leisurely pace, with stops difficult difficult difficult at Caernarfon or Llanberis, Beddgelert,

Top five sites for. . . Short on time? If you only have half a day or a couple of hours to explore, why not jump in the car to any one of these fantastic princes of Gwynedd locations. Find all the information you need at www.snowdoniaheritage.info/princes.

Top five sites for a stroll: Top five places for families: 1. Castell y Bere 1. Dolwyddelan Castle 2. Deganwy Castle 2. Dolbadarn Castle 3. Dolwyddelan Castle 3. Criccieth Castle 4. Beaumaris town centre 4. Castell y Bere 5. Conwy town centre 5. Dinas Emrys

Top five locations with easy access: Top five spots to enjoy stunning views: 1. Dolbadarn Castle 1. Deganwy Castle 2. Cymer Abbey 2. Castell y Bere 3. Bangor Cathedral 3. Dolwyddelan Castle 4. St Grwst’s Church, Llanrwst 4. Dolbadarn Castle 5. Conwy Castle 5. Criccieth Castle

Follow the story:

Ewloe Castle Dolforwyn Castle Tomen y Rhodwydd Be sure to seek out Don’t miss this fine Welsh Today the site of Owain the remains of one of castle, built by Llywelyn Gwynedd ‘s 12th-century medieval Wales’ best the Last in open defiance castle is grazed by sheep, kept secrets – ‘the castle of the English king. but it was once the site in the corner of the of a hard fought struggle wood’, built by Llywelyn between rival Welsh rulers. the Last. Dolwyddelan Castle 36 THE PRINCES OF GWYNEDD TOUR © Kiran Ridley © Kiran Visit our website at www.snowdoniaheritage.info/princes Princes of Gwynedd information points Don’t hesitate to contact our friendly staff for directions or details of walking trails, cycle routes, opening times and access information. Most of the sites are open all year and free of charge. Beddgelert Craflwyn Canolfan Hebog / TIC Nr Beddgelert, LL55 4YD Gwynedd, 01766 890615 LL55 4NG [email protected] www.nationaltrust.org.uk/craflwyn-and-beddgelert

Betws y Coed TIC Criccieth Royal Oak Stables Criccieth Castle LL24 0AH Castle Street 01690 710426 LL52 0DP [email protected] 01766 522227 [email protected] Caernarfon Oriel Pendeitsh / TIC Castle Street LL55 1ES 01286 672232 [email protected] Conwy TIC For information on public transport links contact: Muriau Buildings Traveline Cymru www.travelinecymru.info Rosehill Street Tel: 0871 200 22 33 LL32 8LD Conwy Valley Rail www.conwyvalleyrailway.co.uk 01492 577566 [email protected] Arriva Trains Wales www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk