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Home , Hammer, Hammer tacker, Pliers, Sledgehammer, Slip joint pliers

Appendix: Hand

Hammers

Anatomy of a • The FACE is the striking face, the place where the job gets done. • A properly CROWNED striking face drives nails flush without marring the surface. • A deep THROAT on a strong neck allows power strikes even in difficult areas. • The EYE should be deep and tapered, providing a secure head-to-handle assembly. • The NECK typically has an octagon-shaped design. • The CHEEKS frame the face • The provides clearance for heads and allows a firm grip on nails of any size. • The whole package combined is a hammer HEAD, which is forged on top of the HANDLE.

Hammer Safety Tips • Do not strike a hardened surface, concrete or stone with a steel claw hammer. chips can result in injury to the user or any bystanders. • Never use a hammer with a loose, cracked or broken handle—replace the handle. • Never use a hammer with a chipped, cracked or mushroomed face. • Discard with cracked claws or eye sections. • Do not use the hammer handle for striking, and never use it as a pry bar—this could cause the handle to split. • Always strike the surface squarely—avoid making glancing blows. • Always wear safety goggles when hammering any object. • Never strike a hammer with or against another hammer. • Always use a hammer of the right size and weight for the job.

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Anatomy of Pliers

• The NOSE of the can either be regular size or thinner for reaching into tight places. • HANDLES should be coated for better gripping and long enough to allow for proper leverage. • JAWS should contain a number of TEETH that grab the tightly. • SLIP or ADJUSTMENT JOINT should not be too loose, but should adjust easily. • BUILT-IN CUTTER is used primarily for cutting small- .

Pliers Safety Tips • When using any tool, always wear safety for eye protection. • Keep in mind that slip-joint pliers are called that because they can slip during use. • Pliers should not be used for cutting hardened wire unless specifically manufactured for this purpose. • Never expose pliers to excessive heat. This may draw the temper and ruin the tool. • When using cutting pliers, always cut at right angles. Never from side to side or bend the wire back and forth against the cutting edges. • Don’t bend stiff wire with light pliers. Needle-nose pliers can be damaged by using the tips to bend too large a wire. Use a sturdier tool. • Never extend the length of handles to secure greater leverage. Use a larger pair of pliers or a . • Discard any plier that is cracked, broken, sprung or has nicked cutting edges. • Pliers should not be used on nuts or bolts. A will do the job better and with less risk of damage to the . • Oil pliers occasionally. A drop of oil at the hinge will lengthen tool life and assure easy operation. • Unless specified as insulated handles, the cushion grips on pliers are not intended to give any degree protection against electric shock and should not be used on live electric circuits.

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Anatomy of a

• The business end of any screwdriver is its TIP, which is generally either slotted, Phillips or one of a variety of specialty tips. • When using any screwdriver, the BLADE must be matched with the type and size of fastener. • A quality HANDLE generally includes a comfortable GRIP that is slip proof with rounded ridges for more gripping power. • The SHANK is either round or .

Screwdriver Safety Tips • When using any tool, always wear safety glasses for eye protection. • Screwdrivers should only be used for their intended purpose—driving or removing screws. Screwdrivers should never be used for prying, punching, chiseling, scoring or scraping. • While both slotted and cross-slotted screwdrivers will fit many fastener sizes, it is best to use screwdrivers of the proper sizes that fit snugly into the slot or recessed portion of the fastener head. • handles should be made of fire- and heat-resistant materials. If properly designed, they give excellent grip. Rub- ber or vinyl is often used as a non-slip or insulating cover on plastic handles. • Typical screwdriver handles will not insulate the user from electric current. • It is time to discard the tool when the handle of a screwdriver becomes worn or breaks, if the tip is damaged or if the shaft is bent. • Screwdriver slippage can cause injury. Never hold the piece you’re working on in your hand while driving or loosening screws or bolts. Place it on a work surface and use a vice or a to hold the material, whenever possible. • Never use pliers for added turning leverage on the shank of a screwdriver. However, a wrench may be used on square- shank drivers.

3 & sockets

Anatomy of a Wrench • The HANDLE should be made of hardened tempered steel for long life. • The JAWS should fit tightly around the object being turned without slipping. • The ADJUSTABLE SCREW GEAR should turn easily.

Wrench Safety Tips • Applying excessive torque will strip or damage threads, so quality wrenches are designed to keep leverage and intend- ed load in safe balance. • Users should not put extension handles or “cheaters” on wrench handles to increase leverage. Instead, the proper size wrench should be used. • When possible, a wrench should be pulled, not pushed. Also be sure to your stance in case of sudden release or slippage of the fastener. • Never place sockets designed for a on a power tool or wrench. • When breaking loose frozen , always use a box wrench with a striking face or a heavy-duty and a sledge hammer of the appropriate size. • Always make sure the wrench is completely seated on the nut or bolt being fastened—never tilt the wrench at an angle. • When using an adjustable wrench, pull so that the is on the fixed side of the jaw. • Never use a as a conventional wrench.

pry bars & punches

Pry Bars & Punches Safety Tips • Always wear safety glasses when using punches. • Always strike punches with a ball peen or . • Discard any that is bent, cracked or chipped. • Discard any punch with a deformed or chipped point. • Never use a nail set as a punch. • Discard any nail set that is bent, cracked, chipped or shows excessive wear. • Never use a nail hammer to strike a cat’s paw. The face of the hammer is too small and could chip. Use a ball peen or a small sledgehammer instead.

4 staplers

Anatomy of a Stapler • The HANDLE should be long enough to provide enough leverage to shoot staples with one hand. • The SPRING HOLDER, located in the back of the tool, is ejected to load staples. • The BODY of the tool is generally all-steel construction for durability. • A CHROME FINISH resists general wear and tear.

Stapler Safety Tips • Always wear safety glasses. • When using a gun, make sure you are using the right size staples for the material you are stapling. Also, be sure to double check which portion the staples eject from before using. The correct end should be properly marked on the tool. • When using a or any other stapler, make sure the spring clip is securely fastened to avoid it shooting out of the back of the tool in use. • When using a hot glue gun, always wear hand protection to avoid burns and always unplug the unit when not in use. • Never shoot staples into the air; always shoot staples into a work piece. • Be sure to keep any clean to avoid the staples getting clogged. Periodically take a cleaner and thorough- ly clean the track where the spring holder is located

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Anatomy of a Hand • The HANDLE is turned clockwise to create the drilling action. • The holds drill bits with either hex or square shanks. • The DIRECTION RATCHET allows for turning the tool in one direction and not the other. • The HEAD is mounted on ball bearings so that it will turn freely from the rest of the brace to apply drilling pressure.

Hand Drill Safety Tips • Always wear safety glasses. • When using hand drills or bit braces, make sure the work piece is properly clamped or secured. • Be sure to hold the hand drill or bit brace vertically. • Never hurry the tool. Take your time, especially when precision counts. • Whenever possible, place a piece of scrap material under the work piece. • Never place an awl in your pocket.

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Anatomy of a • HANDLE types come in a wide range of styles, but the three most common are pistol grip, closed handle and straight handle. Pistol grip handles are used primarily on smaller saws that have thinner blades. Closed handles are incorporated more often on larger saws and help to add support to the larger blades. Drywall saws and other small-bladed saws often use straight handles that are in line with the saw’s blade. • A handsaw generally has a BLADE that is 14” to 26” long. The fineness of the cut depends on the number of cutting teeth (points) per inch and tooth shape. The higher the number of points, the finer the cutting. A coarse crosscut saw with seven or eight teeth per inch is best for fast, rough work or for use on green wood. A fine-tooth crosscut saw with 10 or 11 teeth per inch is best for smooth, accurate cutting on dry, seasoned wood. Most saws require minimal mainte- nance other than oiling of the blades to prevent rust. They should be hung up by their blade or handle since blades have a tendency to bend when stored flat. • Some handsaws are available with special “aggressive design” TEETH —three cutting edges instead of the conven- tional two. They cut on both the forward and backward stroke, thereby cutting several times faster than saws with traditional teeth. They may also have the teeth induction-hardened to help keep them sharp longer.

Saw Safety Tips • Always wear proper eye protection, such as safety glasses or a face shield. • When selecting any type of saw, be sure to pick one that is the right size and design for the type of material being cut. • The right saw handle should keep the user’s wrist in somewhat of a natural position that is horizontal to the piece being cut. • Always make sure the piece being cut is free of objects that could make the saw buckle, such as screws and nails. • To start the cut properly, place your hand with the thumb in an upright position pressing against blade. Go slow at first to prevent blade from jumping off the cut line. Then, after the blade is engaged, begin with partial cutting strokes and be sure to set the saw at the proper angle. • During the cut, pressure is applied only during the downstroke. • Be sure the stock being cut is secured firmly in place. • When cutting longer stock, always be sure the stock is properly supported. • Dull teeth can be a safety . Always make sure the teeth and blades are properly sharpened, set and cleaned. • Always protect the teeth of any saw when the tool is not in use. • When using , make sure the bade is secured with the teeth pointing forward and that the frame is aligned properly. • When cutting with a , use the full length of blade in each cutting stroke.

7 knives

Anatomy of a Utility Knife • The INTERLOCKING NOSE provides added stability and enhanced blade control. • The BODY or HANDLE features ergonomic grips on better models for easier handling. • The RETRACTABLE BLADE SLIDE should slide easily without binding. • The BLADE should always be sharp and be seated properly in the knife. • The HANDLE SCREW separates the body for blade replacement.

Knife Safety Tips • Always wear safety glasses when using utility knives. Blades can snap off unexpectedly. • Always use sharp blades. Dull blades are a safety hazard, requiring more force to make the cut, which can lead to tool slippage. • Always pull the knife toward you when cutting, and make several passes when cutting thicker materials. • To prevent slippage, make sure blades are seated properly in the knife. • Never leave a utility knife unattended, especially with the blade exposed.

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Anatomy of a • Wood chisels can have either a wood or plastic HANDLE. • Only the SHARP EDGE of the BEVEL is used for cutting. • The BLADE can be as short as 2” or up to a foot in length and from 1/8” to 3” wide. • The TANG is where the blade fits into the plastic or wooden handle. • The STEEL STRIKING CAP on the handle helps center the blow.

Chisel Safety Tips • Keep all chisels sharpened and in good working order. Discard any chisel with a cracked or chipped face. • Cold chisels should be struck only with a hand drilling, ball peen or similar heavy hammer with a face diameter approxi- mately 3/8” larger than the struck tool head. • Plastic guards offer protection against mishits. • All steel chisels (not wood chisels having wooden or plastic handles) are subject to chipping that can cause bodily injury much the same as steel hammer faces. Therefore, applicable safety standards require the warning “Wear Safety Goggles” on each tool. • Never use a cold chisel for cutting concrete or stone. • Never use a wood chisel for cutting metal, concrete or stone. • Never place a chisel of any type in your pocket. • Do not use a chisel for prying and driving screws.

9 planes

Anatomy of a Plane • The DEPTH ADJUSTMENT SCREW or WHEEL adjusts the depth of the cutting edge. • The CUTTING BLADE or CUTTING IRON protrudes below the sole through the MOUTH of the tool to make the cut. • The SOLE of the tool is run along the surface of the work piece. The TOE is located at the front of the sole. • The TOTE is the main handle of the tool used to push the tool with your dominant hand. • A KNOB is used to steady the tool with the hand that isn’t pushing the tool. • The TILT or LATERAL ADJUSTMENT LEVER positions the cutting edge parallel with the mouth of the tool. • The CAP IRON helps stiffen the cutting blade and directs shavings away from the mouth of the tool.

Plane Safety Tips • Always wear safety glasses. • Be sure to use the correct plane for the job. Remember that the longer the plane, the better it will straighten the edges on longer work pieces. • Store any plane with the cutting blade retracted to avoid injury and wearing out the cutting edge prematurely. • When not in use, always rest a plane on its side. • Always try to plane with the grain of the wood. • A plane won’t work properly if the blade isn’t as sharp as possible. • Don’t try to plane too much in one pass. Start with a shallow cut setting and gradually increase the depth.

10 snips & Bolt cutters

Anatomy of a Snip • A curved BLADE slices along its entire length. • The HANDLE is coated for better gripping of the tool. • A RETURN SPRING opens the blade automatically for ease in cutting. • The DOUBLE KNUCKLE or DOUBLE FULCRUM pivot provides extra compound leverage for easier cutting. • The LOCKING CLIP keeps the blades of the tool closed when engaged.

Snips and Bolt Cutters Safety Tips • Always wear safety glasses. • Be sure to use the correct plane for the job. Remember that the longer the plane, the better it will straighten the edges on longer work pieces. • Store any plane with the cutting blade retracted to avoid injury and wearing out the cutting edge prematurely. • When not in use, always rest a plane on its side. • Always try to plane with the grain of the wood. • A plane won’t work properly if the blade isn’t as sharp as possible. • Don’t try to plane too much in one pass. Start with a shallow cut setting and gradually increase the depth.

11 & hatchets

Anatomy of an • The HICKORY HANDLE is generally 36” long. • The FORGED HEAD or BIT usually weighs between 2.25 and 3.5 lbs. • The CUTTING EDGE should be kept as sharp as possible. • The POLL of a single bit axe is the flat back used for hammering wooden stakes.

Axe Safety Tips • Single-bit axes should never be struck by another striking tool. • Axe heads for single bit axes should never be used to strike splitting , steel posts, stone or any hard object. • Safety glasses should be worn when using these tools. In addition to possible chipping of the tool, flying wood chips could strike the eye of the user or someone nearby. • The striking face of a hatchet is intended for pounding nothing harder than common nails. It should never be struck with another hatchet or a hammer and should not be used to strike chisels, punches, star drills or other hardened metal. • Never use an axe or a hatchet with a handle that is loose or damaged. • Discard any axe or hatchet if the head is cracked or chipped. • If the handle is damaged, it most likely can be replaced. • When redressing the cutting edge, always restore to its original shape.

12 distance measuring devices

Anatomy of a • 1”-WIDE BLADE allows for protrusion over longer distances.

• A RUBBER JACKET allows user to easily grip the case and protects the tool against impact.

• A RIVETED HOOK on the end slides back and forth ever so slightly to compensate for the thickness of the hook on inside vs. outside measurements.

• LOCKING BUTTON slows the retraction of the blade when partially engaged and locks blade when fully engaged.

• HIGH VISIBILITY CASE makes tool easily visible on job site.

New Product: Digital Tape Measure • Similar to a conventional tape measure but with electronic features added, such as a digital readout to make measure- ment readings more precise and the ability to convert fractions to decimals or even metric equivalents. • Another useful feature is a function that compensates for the size of the tape case • when taking inside measurements, such as a window frame or a door jamb. • Some models have a memory function which holds a measurement without having to write it down. Other models have a voice recorder to make it easy to keep track of multiple measurements.

13 Anatomy of a Square • The BLADE is a grooved metal rule that slides back and forth in the STOCK or HEAD of the tool with measuring incre- ments etched in the metal

• The NUT secures the blade to the head at a desired measurement.

• A LEVEL in the head allows the user to quickly check for level or plumb.

• The blade sits at a 90 DEGREE angle on the main side of the head, and at a 45 DEGREE angle on the other side.

• The SCRIBE is detachable and can be used like a .

Square Usage Tips • When using a square as a saw guide, try to use a clamp to hold the square so you can keep two hands on the saw. • When not in use, always close the blade of a sliding T-bevel square back into the handle. The tip of the blade can be quite sharp. • Avoid dropping any square to preserve its integrity.

14 precision measuring instruments

Anatomy of a Caliper • The JAWS slide along the SLIDING SCALE and record outside measurements.

• The DIAL reads measurements from the scale.

• INSIDE MEASURING BLADES allow for inside measurements, such as inside pipe diameters, etc.

• The THUMB GRIP provides for easy movement of the sliding scale.

• A DEPTH GAUGE ROD is located at the end of the sliding scale.

Anatomy of a Level • Most levels have two or three GLASS VIALS, which are small glass tubes filled with colored liquid containing a BUB- BLE and markings to check for both level and plumb.

• REINFORCED FRAME, often called a RAIL or BODY,is generally made of aluminum, -bound hardwood or impact- resistant plastic.

• RUBBER GASKETS surrounding the vials protect from shock and moisture.

• RUBBER END CAPS act as shock absorbers for the entire tool.

• HANGING HOOK is designed for easy storage.

Level Usage Tips • Never drop a level. It is a precision instrument and the impact could jeopardize the integrity of the tool. • Always keep a level in its protective case if it has one. 15 drywall & plaster tools

Drywall Safety Tips • Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask or a respirator when sanding drywall to avoid inhaling drywall dust. • Always close off work area and registers and returns when sanding drywall to keep dust from entering the rest of the house. • To avoid spilling drywall joint compound, never overload a hopper or a mud pan with too much compound.

tools

Trowels Usage Tips • Always wear safety glasses when mixing and during a tiling project. • Wear gloves when using any type of trowel to protect your hands from the tools’ sharp edges. • Always be sure the tip of a pointing trowel is covered to protect both the tool and the user. • Be careful of the edges of finishing trowels, as they can be quite sharp. • Be sure to clean any trowel or float after each use to avoid mortar or cement from building up on the tool.

files & sharpening tools

Files Usage Tips • Always wear eye protection when filing. • Always wear a dust mask when filing to prevent inhaling small metal or wooden particles. • Files cut on the push stroke, so be sure to release the pressure on the back stroke when filing. • To avoid injury, never use a without a handle. Also, files should be used with two hands, with one on the handle and the point held between the thumb and fingers. • To avoid chipping the teeth of a file, never store files with other tools in a box or a drawer. Also, it is best to wrap files in cloth when storing. • Be sure the work piece is securely clamped when filing, preferably in a . • Never attempt to sharpen a serrated edge with a sharpening stone—it requires special equipment.

PRO Corner • Professional customers will place higher demands on the files they use than your do-it-yourself customers, who will use a file only occasionally. Be sure to have files with ergonomic rubber handles and assort files by their usage to help professional customers easily locate what they are looking for. • Where your do-it-yourself customers may only be looking for a general use file, pro customers will need a variety of files for different applications. Be sure to stock sets of files with various types available in a pack for your professional customers. • To help your professional customers keep their files organized and protected, recommend files sets with file holders to protect the files from chips and scratches. • Files need to be cleaned periodically, especially when used regularly by professional customers. Always recommend a file brush to professional customers purchasing files to remove dust and metal particles on the file’s cutting surface.

16 clamps

Clamp Usage Tips • Choose the right size clamp for the work involved to avoid overloading a clamp that is too small. • Clamps are designed for temporary holding, so always remove them as soon as the job is finished. • When storing clamps, always keep them hanging in racks when not in use, never in laying in a drawer. • Before using a web clamp, be sure to inspect it for fraying or cuts before applying pressure. And discard the tool if any frays or cuts are found. • Use spring clamps only where moderate pressure is required. • Discard any clamp if its frame, screw or spindle is bent. • Do not use a wrench, pipe, hammer or pliers to tightening a clamp. A wrench should be used only on clamps designed to be tightened with a wrench. • Never use a C-clamp for hoisting anything.

Vices Usage Tips • Always be sure to wear eye protection when hammering an object being held by a vise. • Worn jaw inserts and bent sliding cross pin handles should be replaced. • Never use an extension cheater handle or hammer on the handle of a vise for extra clamping pressure. • If there is any possibility of marring the work, use jaw liners with a vise. • Discard any vise that shows even the slightest hairline fracture. • Use bolts in all the holes in the base of the vise and use lock washers under the nuts. • When work is held in the vise for sawing, be sure to saw as close to the jaws as possible. • When clamping long work pieces in a vise, always make sure the end of the work is properly supported.

tool storage & work support

Tool Storage & Work Support Usage Tips • Never overload any tool storage device or with more weight than the tool can hold or support. Always check manufacturer’s specifications for weight limitations. • When supporting long material on sawhorses, be sure to allow enough overhang on each end so the material won’t slip off. • When placing tools in tool belts, always make sure the sharp edges of tools are pointed down and always keep blades in utility knives retracted when stored in a tool belt. • When using folding sawhorses, always make sure the legs are fully extended and locked into place if it comes equipped with locking device. • Line drawers and trays that hold sharp tools with scrap pieces of carpet. • Always make sure your tool box’s handle is securely attached. • Never stand on a tool box to extend your reach.

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