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Home , Clontarf (whiskey), Irish whiskey, Pernod Ricard

REASON TO SMILE

IRISH WHISKEY KEEPS GROWING— IN SIZE, SELECTION AND VALUE

BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

ith all the new distilleries, brands and line extensions different and new expressions that appeal emerging from , whiskey retailers have an to different sectors of the market.” Bush- mills jumped in two years ago with Red unprecedented array of choices that show no sign of Bush, aged in ex-bourbon barrels rather W narrowing. Accordingly, the proverbial Irish eyes are still than a mix of those and casks. smilling broadly at this vibrant sector. Powered by Irish Egan recently ended his chairmanship whiskey’s inherently smooth style and the swelling popularity centered of the Association, and says on a handful of powerful, widely available brands, the category is not just ensuring that traditional techniques and understanding were available to new en- small and mighty—it is expanding dramatically in breadth. trants—about 20+ distilleries now oper- ate, up from four in 2014, with as many as Take two recent additions stretching all is happening with exuberance in the 20 in development—was the reason the what Irish whiskey can be: Dingle and The Irish sector. group was founded. Sexton. Dingle produces distinct small- “There are some great opportunities batch single malt releases—the third fin- in innovation,” says Colum Egan, Master THE FIELD THICKENS ished in ex-bourbon and Port barrels. The Distiller of Bushmills. “There are a lot of Major producers are tickled in general Sexton arrives as an especially young (four consumers who have been drinking Irish with the competition. “It is great for the years old) malt whiskey meant for category whiskey for some time who looking for category, for the growth of Irish whiskey novices and makers. something new and innovative within the in the U.S. and for the consumer,” says After decades of relying on the light category. Most of us are coming out with Sona Bajaria, Vice President, High End and fruity blended triple-distilled spirit Irish Whiskey, Pernod USA. “At that predominates, Irish styles are explod- Midleton we have an open-door policy. We want to maintain the quality and in- ing. Single malts and pure expres- Clockwise: Bushmills is an old guard distiller still sions, of course, but also grain whiskey, leading the way in terms of innovation. // The tegrity of Irish whiskey and as such offer double distilled variants, peated malts Sexton is a new offering tailored toward novices our support and expertise to these distill- and cocktail makers. // Kilbeggan, now owned eries in their set-up phases.” and extended aging and in by Beam , dates back to 1757, though non-traditional barrels—rum, mar- its distillery has had a zig-zaggish history. // The basis for optimism is strong: Red Spot is among the multiple ultra-premium Irish whiskey remains one of the fastest- sala, or exotic woods like acacia. Spot produced by at the There’s even an Irish rye now. Midleton Distillery. // The Caskmates program has growing categories. Sales internation- Just about everything good brought Jameson critical recognition beyond the ally are predicted to hit 13 million cases brand’s identity as a favorite shot. that is happening in whiskey over- by 2020, up from 10 million in 2017. IRISH WHISKEY

grain” whiskey; and opening the first new As the Irish shelves are already not nearly as crowded as more established sectors like single AFTER DECADES OF distillery in in 125 years in 2015. malts and bourbon, the playing field has a wide open Operating on her family farm in and level feel to it, which spurs innovations—like RELYING ON THE D.E.W. Cask Finish and Jameson County Clare, a mile from the coast, Lou- Black Barrel—as well as newcomers like Slane LIGHT AND FRUITY ise McGuane is a leader in the revival of (2015) and Proper No.Twelve (2018). BLENDED TRIPLE- whiskey “bonding,” which practically dis- DISTILLED WHISKEY appeared in the 1930s. For the J.J. Corry brand, named after a legendary nearby behind American and Scotch whiskey. THAT PREDOMINATES, The challenge for all non-Jameson brands IRISH STYLES ARE whiskey bonder, she blends and matures whiskies from multiple sources. is to overcome the lack of understand- EXPLODING. Lambay Irish Whiskey is a crossover ing of Irish whiskey as a distinct subset of project between the House of Camus and whiskey, and to reinforce the unique pro- the Baring Family’s Revelstoke Trust. file that Irish whiskey offers the drinker.” Recent Nielsen reports put Irish at an Lambay Small Batch Blend is malted “With several Irish whiskeys already annual 12% growth rate here with Ul- and grain whiskies, blended, triple bringing to market limited releases, other tra-Premium Irish up 7.4%. “We predict distilled and matured in bourbon barrels innovations and special bottlings will likely the category will continue to grow with a cask finish. Lambay Sin- become a mainstay as the category grows,” rapidly as consumers explore gle Malt is unpeated, tripled distilled says Slane Irish Whiskey co-founder Alex new innovations,” says Bajaria. and finished in Cognac casks that have Conyngham. “There will be challenges re- On the flip side, younger been exposed to the sea air and mari- sulting from increased competition in the brands are certainly aware— time winds on Lambay Island. marketplace, although this will encourage and appreciative—of the But no new entry in Irish whiskey brands to further differentiate through in- way that Pernod Ricard’s has come close to the impact of that lat- novation and flavor profile, which means Jameson in particular has est new name: Proper No. Twelve. Cre- more choice for consumers.” popularized Irish whiskey, ated by mixed martial arts champion setting the table, so to speak, Conor McGregor, Proper No. Twelve EYE ON AMERICAN TASTES for new entries. sold out its initial run last fall in less than The U.S. market has been dominated by one month. A blend of Irish grain and sin- Jameson with Tullamore and Bushmills NEW & DIFFERENT gle malt whiskey, Proper No. Twelve pays the most prominent other brands. But the Launched in 1999, Bernard and Rosemary homage to Crumlin, aka Dublin 12, the popular style has its limits, says Jack Teel- Walsh scored in Ireland with their ready- neighborhood where McGregor was born ing, Managing Director of Teeling Whis- to-drink , which became the and raised and which is known for its rich key Company. “Shifting consumer tastes Hot Irishman, and cream years soil and pure spring water. are driving the segmentation with con- before developing two distinct Irish sumer and trade interests in more unique whiskies. In 2007 they launched The EMERALD ROAD AHEAD and interesting Irish whiskey.” Irishman; Writers’ Tears Copper Pot Most industry watchers expect robust “By continuing to introduce new of- debuted here in 2015. growth to continue. “I see Irish whis- ferings that drive interest and relevance The Teeling family had been in the key still only scratching the surface among brown spirits drinkers, we’ll whiskey business since 1782, but brothers of consumer interest in the U.S.,” continue to generate growth within Jack and Stephen have the family name says Brand Leader Ken Reilly. the Irish whiskey category,” says Ivan in the spotlight by experimenting with di- “Irish whiskey only represents 6% to Hidalgo, Managing Director, Kilbeg- verse barrel finishes; releasing a rare “single 8% of the U.S. whiskey market, well gan Distilling Company. IRISH WHISKEY

Others are eagerly looking to expand Jameson has had success with Cask- The popularity of Irish whiskey as a smooth, the palate. “We always strive to be at the mates done in exchange with craft brew- easy-drinking spirit has set the stage for more forefront of trends in the industry,” says ers, notably Caskmates Stout and Cask- serious expressions, such as Pernod Ricard’s single pot still . // KiIlbeggan is even Conor Neville, Brand Manager, Tulla- mates IPA. “With Jameson Caskmates, offering an Irish . // Bushmill’s is more D.E.W. “Innovations such as Carib- we have seen the power of crossing over supporting Red Bush with aggressive online bean Rum Cask and Cider Cask were two categories by tapping into consumers’ content and social media marketing. of our most recent successful launches. love of craft ,” says Jameson’s VP of Because of their popularity, we’ve incor- Marketing, Paul Di Vito. porated Rum Cask into our permanent For the high-end Pernod brands, fin- And if consumers respond to the portfolio and have reintroduced Cider ishing techniques, like Redbreast Lustau, new iterations, the flood will contin- Cask for a second fall season,” and Red Spot, launching in the U.S. in ue. “Trying out different woods and Some distilleries focus on particular ar- early spring, are significant. Recently, flavor profiles wouldn’t make sense if eas of tinkering. Teeling not only explores The Spot Range experimented with the the market wasn’t open to it,” says The finishes, but tweaks its yeast mix and malt releases of Château Léoville Sexton’s , Alex Thom- selection. Slane uses three types of casks, Barton and Green Spot Chateau Mon- as. “The consumer wants something one a heavily toasted and medium char telena, the first single pot still Irish to be different and for me as a blender that’s virgin cask, unusual in Irish whiskey. finished in casks. a dream come true.” ■

West Cork Irish novelists, poets and Whiskey, named after the legend- NO BLARNEY One of the few distillers in playwrights (George Bernard ary boxer and Boston native. HERE… Ireland to boast actual Irish Shaw, Oscar Wilde and ownership, West Cork uses James Joyce, to name a The Dead Rabbit JUST SOLID exclusively Irish barley as few) who drew inspiration Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry, BACKSTORIES well as fresh local spring at local from their co-founders of the award- water. Their specialty is favorite whiskey. winning The Dead Rab- The Irish range is rich in cultural charred-cask finish whiskey. bit, teamed up with Master and historical connections that Knappogue Castle Distiller Darryl McNally can make for succinct, interest- Slane Anchored by a picturesque 15th- of The Dublin Liberties ing selling points: The name Slane is familiar to century castle, Knappogue Castle Distillery to create a rock ’n roll fans, thanks to the has emerged as Ireland’s leading namesake five-year-old The Temple Bar world-famous Slane Castle supplier of bourbon-barreled, blended Irish whiskey. Fresh from Dublin, The Temple Concert series, founded in age-statement single malts, with Bar Whiskey carries the name 1981. Slane Irish Whiskey was expressions of 12, 14 and 16 The Quiet Man power of Ireland’s most famous created by Brown-Forman and years; complemented by the For the first Irish whiskey bar (180 years young). the Conyngham family of Slane, value-priced label recall- bottled in Derry in nearly The Temple Bar owner whose roots in the Irish village ing the historic battle of 1014. 100 years, local distiller Tom Cleary makes three date back over three centuries. Ciaran Mulgrew combines bonded whiskies: an John L. Sullivan hand-selected whiskies, original triple-distilled Writers’ Tears Conor McGregor is not the only finished in first-fill bour- Signature Blend; and This bottling by Walsh Whiskey, Irish pugilist with a whiskey la- bon barrels for sweet 10- and 12-Year-Old s which also produces The Irish- bel… Boston-based M.S. Walker and spicy notes. followed. man, honors the 19th century reintroduced John L. Sullivan Irish