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THE STATE OF

march/april 2017 ~ imbibemagazine.com 1 Lara Ferroni These are boom times for times for boom These are not far and ’s bourbon, distillers craft behind. And as malts and single introduce , and experimental their reveal major distilleries the as well, sides innovative whiskey of American state than ever. seems stronger of a spirit overview an Here’s at and a look in mid-boom, our favorite the directions spirit may head. domestic

The State of State The

country’s signature spirit. signature country’s

WHISKEY Interesting things are afoot for the for afoot are things Interesting AMERICAN AMERICAN From distilleries to retailers to malt houses, every corner of the whiskey world is undergoing whiskey 101 seismic change. We asked a merican whiskey is an expand- American whiskey, though many craft dis- handful of influential figures ing category, ranging from clas- tillers opt instead for pot stills, similar to HOW TO READ in the whiskey boom for their sic styles such as bourbon and those used to make Scotch . Most perspectives on how this change to single malts akin whiskey is distilled at least twice (often in A WHISKEY is taking place, and where Ato those from Scotland and Japan, and in- different stills—in bourbon’s case, a copper they see American whiskey cluding unexpected whiskies such as those “doubler” is utilized for the second LABEL headed. made from millet or sorghum, as well as ) to obtain the desired strength whiskeys aged in novel or untraditional and character. ways. Despite the variety, however, all whis- ◆ The resulting whiskey is clear, and of- keys share a basic DNA—here’s a simplified ten quite raw. While some distillers sell this guide to the process. “white dog,” the spirit needs aging to reach Illustration by Matty Newton; timeline images from left: courtesy of Maker's Mark, courtesy of , courtesy of Anchor Distilling Company HANDCRAFTED Distilleries large and ◆ All whiskey starts with grain. While its full potential. are typically STRAIGHT AMERICAN some whiskies, such as -based sin- used to mature and season the whiskey. small make whiskey much the same way— WHISKEY gle malts, are made entirely from a single (While other types of wood may be utilized, “handcrafted” sounds The term “straight” whis- grain variety, most employ some mixture of oak is by far the preferred style.) Almost great, but means nothing. key is legally defined, and grains for flavor, aromatics and body. Corn all American whiskey barrels are made of Keep looking. this term is often seen on makes up the lion’s share of bourbon reci- American white oak, though French oak bourbon and rye labels. pes (by law, the grain must account for at and some other varieties are tapped by FAMILY RESERVE It notes that nothing but water (to reach the least 51 percent of bourbon’s mashbill), and some distilleries. Most American whiskey See “handcrafted”— terms like Special desired proof) has been rye similarly plays that role for rye whis- barrels are charred on the inside before use, Reserve, Family Reserve added to the whiskey key. sometimes takes a star turn in resulting in whiskies laced with bold flavors and similar language before bottling. whiskey (as well as appearing in some bour- of caramel and vanilla, though some distill- have no real meaning. PAUL HLETKO AGED 10 YEARS Chicago, Illinois bon and mixed-grain whiskeys, along with ers instead toast the barrels to produce a barley), and grains such as oats, sorghum, different set of aromas and flavors. Most whiskies are The founder of Few Spirits— mixtures of spirits from maker of whiskies including a triticale and spelt have drawn the interest ◆ Time is the final ingredient in most SMALL BATCH many, many barrels—if bourbon, a rye, a single malt and of some distillers. whiskies. Some craft distillers may age “Small” is in the eye of there’s an age statement, the limited-edition Brainville Rye, ◆ After the grain has been milled, it’s their whiskey for only a matter of weeks or the beholder, and some it notes the youngest produced in conjunction with The cooked (single malts can skip this step) and months, but years are often needed for the “small” batches still whiskey in the mix. contain whiskies from Flaming Lips—Hletko is also the cooled. is then added (either directly whiskey to reach its full character. Whiskies scores of different barrels. president of the American Craft to the thick mash or, for single malts, to the labeled as straight bourbon or straight rye “Single ,” while more An increasingly rare term Spirits Association. wash—hot water that’s soaked up the grain’s are required to spend a minimum of two descriptive and typically on labels, this carries “As people have moved away sugars and enzymes) and fermentation years in the barrel (though if aged less than more accurate, still carries legal weight regarding from , they’re looking for takes place, converting the grain’s sugar to four years, the label must note this youth), no legal definition. handling and taxation; the things with flavor, tradition and alcohol. Yeast choice plays a big role in the and most American whiskies on the market takeaway for consum- DISTILLED AND great quality. When you combine flavor of the finished whiskey, and distill- are anywhere between four and 12 years ers is that the whiskey eries such as use multiple strains old, with many bottles containing a mé- BOTTLED BY is 50 percent alcohol, or good quality with tradition and Is there a “Freeman 100-proof. distinction, that’s helped build the to produce different results. Many distill- lange of different ages. Bros.” distillery, or was American whiskey category over eries also add a small amount of fermented ◆ Most American whiskies have noth- the whiskey purchased LOT NO. the past 15 years. There’s a lot of mash from a previous batch to the fresh ing added before bottling, with the excep- wholesale from another This has no legal weight creativity going on in American mash to maintain flavor consistency. Fer- tion of water to dilute the whiskey to the de- distillery and simply bottled but is often used to note whiskey now. That’s going on with mentation typically takes about three days. sired proof (and the law prohibits straight by another company? (The smaller releases from craft distillers, ranging from Few ◆ When fermentation is complete, the bourbon or rye from having any other ingre- answer in this case is craft distillers, and dif- to Westland to House Spirits, “neither”—we just made up ferent lots from the same fermented liquid (called distiller’s , dients added). Flavored and blended whis- the name.) If the label says Santa Fe, Corsair—and you’re distiller sometimes vary often with an alcohol level somewhere be- kies (with neutral spirits added to soften the “distilled and bottled by,” in flavor and style. seeing some interesting things tween 8 and 11 percent) is drained off and whiskey’s flavor) are obvious exceptions to you’re dealing with an coming down the pike from the distilled. Column stills make the bulk of this rule. actual distiller. *This is a fictitous label created solely bigger legacy distillers, as well. to illustrate the points of this diagram. You can’t pretend that Jim Beam and Buffalo Trace aren’t doing cool stuff with American whiskey. 1976 Aug. 1, 1980 1984 Late 1980s 1992 1993 There’s a lot of creativity happen- The The Wall Street Blanton’s is Jim Beam master The first Bourbon Fritz Maytag ing, and that’s a good thing. Not A Modern celebrates the Journal runs a introduced as the distiller Booker Festival is held establishes Anchor all of the cool stuff will last, but bicentennial. front-page article first single-barrel Noe begins bottling in Bardstown, Distilling Company in Vodka surpasses on little-known bourbon. select barrels of . San Francisco, with the experimentation and creativity Timeline of whiskey in U.S. bourbon brand bourbon for friends the aim of making is something that will hopefully sales. Maker’s Mark; and family; the so- pot-distilled whiskey Co. stick around and drive innovation the article is called “small batch” with a base of malted AMERICAN later credited bourbon is released purchases the rye. The first of what in spirits in general, and Ameri- with helping to to the public in Stagg Distillery, becomes Old Potrero can whiskey in particular.” revive bourbon’s 1992 as Booker’s which it renames whiskey goes into WHISKEY long-lackluster Bourbon. Buffalo Trace in barrels the following reputation. 1999. year. hile around a dozen major distilleries still account for a vast majority of American whiskey production by volume, the nation’s WHISKEY DISTILLERIES whiskey landscape has changed considerably in just a few years. WAccording to Steve Ury, a Los Angeles–based attorney who’s tracked whiskey distilleries since 2009 for his blog, Sku’s Recent Eats (and whose in America, 2000 & 2016 research we've drawn heavily from for this map), the size and pace of ILLUSTRATION BY BOLOGNA SANDWICH change have been astounding. “My first list had maybe 20 craft distillers— now there are hundreds,” he says. Here’s an overview of the nation’s whiskey landscape, along with examples of its range and regional styles. This list includes distilleries currently selling whiskey, along with those that MILLET Chicago’s WHEAT Middle PEAT Westland Koval Distillery West Spirits in Ohio Distillery began either have whiskey maturing (but not yet available), or have has long embraced makes OYO Whiskey, tapping peat bogs announced imminent plans to produce whiskey; it does nontraditional a delicate wheat- grains, such as oats based spirit, and on Washington’s not include bottlers of whiskies produced elsewhere. Olympic Peninsula QUINOA / TRITICALE / and millet, for its neighboring Michigan to smoke the grain RYE Standard rye whiskies. has 10 distilleries for its peated single meets offbeat quinoa trying their hands malts, akin to the in the grains utilized at wheat-based terroir-driven for whiskey by Feisty whiskies. whiskies from Spirits in Colorado. Scotland’s islands.

QUINOA / TRITICALE Corsair Distillery has long had one of BARLEY More than BARLEY / RYE / OATS the country’s most a dozen distillers Ransom Spirits follows BLUE CORN innovative whiskey in New York make a 19th-century recipe Instead of basic portfolios, made with barley-based single for , commodity corn, offbeat techniques malts, including Van combining oats, rye, Left Turn Distilling in and untraditional Brunt Stillhouse, and both malted and Albuquerque utilizes grains like quinoa Hillrock Estate and unmalted barley for blue corn to make its and triticale. Tuthilltown Spirits. its distinctive Emerald signature whiskey. 1846 whiskey.

HICKORY Wheat is PEACH / PECAN CORN Local grain KERNZA This wheat- cold-smoked with John Emerald matters to many like perennial, long hickory prior to milling, Distilling turns to distillers, and the grown for livestock then distilled into peach and pecan New England Corn fodder and favored for Rock Town Distillery’s wood for smoking Whiskey from its gentle environmental Arkansas Hickory the barley that goes Berkshire Mountain footprint, is being Smoked Whiskey. into its Alabama Distillers uses grain transformed into Single Malt. grown just two miles whiskey by Ventura away. Distilling.

RICE Louisiana rice is the only grain MESQUITE Hamilton utilized in Riz, a SORGHUM High CHERRY / APPLE Distillers adds a whiskey from New Wire Distilling is one regional touch to Orleans–based of the distilleries makes its Wasmund’s their single malt by Atelier Vie. embracing its Single Malt using smoking the grain Southern roots barley that’s been with Southwestern by making a rich, smoked using apple mesquite. alluring whiskey from sorghum. and cherry wood. MILE HIGH PEAR AMERICAN WHISKEY INDEX

Amount, in billions of dollars, of American whiskey sales in 2015. This aromatic drink from 2.9: Seven Grand plays a barley- Number, in millions, of 9-liter cases of American whiskey sold in 2015. based American single malt 20.3: against the bright fragrance 32,000: Approximate number of barley varieties collected in the Svalbard Global of pears and . Seed Vault.

2 oz. American single-malt Varieties of barley commonly used to produce malt for beer and whiskey. whiskey (Seven Grand uses <15: Stranahan’s) 51: The percentage of corn that an American whiskey must legally contain to be TAD SEESTEDT ½ oz. pear labeled as bourbon. Sheridan, Oregon ¼ oz. simple syrup (1:1) Founder of Ransom Spirits, 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters 95: Approximate percentage of all bourbon that’s distilled in the state of Kentucky. Seestedt produces four styles 2 dashes orange bitters of whiskey, including The Absinthe (for a rinse) Percent bourbon production has grown in Kentucky since 1999. Emerald 1865—made from a 170: blend of malted and unmalted Left: Lara Ferroni; illustration by Matty Newton; timeline images from left: Ben Krantz, courtesy of Jack Daniel's barley, oats and rye, based on Glass: The 2016 tax-assessed value, in billions of dollars, of all bourbon aging in 2.4: a 19th-century recipe for Irish Garnish: lemon Kentucky. whiskey—and the descrip- Stir the ingredients with ice. tively named Rye, Barley, Wheat 4: Approximate number of smaller-scale “craft” distilleries in the U.S. making whiskey Whiskey. Rinse an Old Fashioned glass in 2000. with absinthe, discard the “It’s not that I have anything excess, then strain the drink 770+: Approximate number of smaller-scale “craft” distilleries in the U.S. making against corn—my preference into the prepared glass. whiskey (or with plans to make whiskey) at the end of 2016. usually swings the other way. Twist a lemon peel over the I was interested in what other grains could do, and there’s drink and use as garnish. Estimated number of labels and brands that have bottled whiskey from a single 115: a pretty wide range to choose distillery, MGP Ingredients in Lawrenceburg, Indiana. John Coltharp from. Barley is the obvious Seven Grand, Los Angeles choice, but even within that, 3,500: Number of whiskey barrels produced daily by Brown-Forman cooperages. there are a vast number of different flavor and aromatic 32: Number of oak staves used to build a traditional whiskey barrel. profiles you can get. Personally, when I’m approaching a 53: Gallon capacity of a traditional American whiskey barrel. or spirit or food, the first thing I do is smell it. And coming out 60-70: Estimated percentage of a whiskey’s flavor that comes from the wooden barrel. of the world, I think of spirits primarily in regards to 7.2: Number of barrels of spirits, in millions, currently aging in Kentucky (includes aromatics—that’s what they’re whiskey, and other spirits). all about. I hope the little guys can continue to proliferate, and 171,100: Price quote, in dollars, for fabrication of a new 750-gallon standard also thrive. I think there are copper still from Vendome Copper & Brass Works in Louisville, Kentucky, not a lot of challenges for small including customization. producers within the distribution chain—it can be very difficult, 10-12: Average lead time, in months, to have a custom still built by Vendome. and I’m fortunate because I got an early start. But for some of the newer distillers, distribu- tion and sales are their greatest 1996 1996 1996 Nov. 7, 1996 1997 1999 2003 challenges. Hopefully we’ll be able to support this full spec- Clear Creek As testament to the St. George Spirits founder A massive fire sweeps Jack Daniel’s looks Ralph Erenzo and trum of whiskey styles, with Distillery growing interest in Jörg Rupf interviews through the Heaven to the growing purchases the Brian Lee found introduces premium bourbon, Lance Winters (right) for a Hill Distillery in market for premium historic Bernheim Tuthilltown Spirits in different mashbills and aging McCarthy’s Brown-Forman position as distiller; for his Bardstown, Kentucky, whiskey, introducing distillery in Gardiner, New York, techniques. We have the op- Oregon Single launches Woodford résumé, Winters produces destroying seven Jack Daniel’s Single Louisville and and are soon making portunity to be the most diverse Malt, a peated Reserve, utilizing a bottle of homemade warehouses containing Barrel. makes this plant whiskies including a whiskey-producing country malt whiskey pot-distilled whiskey whiskey. Winters is 90,000 barrels of its new center of bourbon, a rye, and a named for made at the historic hired; St. George begins whiskey (an estimated whiskey production. single malt, sold under in the world. We’re just at the distillery founder Labrot & Graham producing its single malt 2 percent of the the Hudson Whiskey beginning—there are limitless Steve McCarthy. distillery near whiskey the same year country’s bourbon at label. possibilities.” Versailles, Kentucky. and releases its first the time). bottles in 2000. WHAT'’S IN A BARREL?

Portrait illustrations by Matty Newton; photo by Stuart Mullenberg; barrel illustration by Bologna Sandwich; timeline images from left: courtesy of Stranahan's, courtesy of Jack Daniel's The one-size-fits-all barrel approach has given way to variety among American whiskey distillers.

THE STANDARD The traditional barrel used for almost all bourbon and rye whiskey is a 53-gallon first-use barrel made from American oak (much of it from Missouri) and charred heavily on the inside. HARLEN WHEATLEY MONIQUE HUSTON Chicago, Illinois Frankfort, Kentucky WOOD TYPE As master distiller at Buffalo The director of spirits at The Some distillers opt for Min- Winebow Group, Huston is a Trace Distillery, Wheatley over- nesota oak, Oregon oak or sees production of whiskies theThe classics French oak, which have their veteran bartender and spirits including the distillery’s own flavor characteristics and educator. uffalo Trace master distiller Long-established distilleries such as flagship bourbon and Sazerac affect the whiskey in different Harlen Wheatley likes to tell Maker’s Mark and Heaven Hill have “There is such a range of people rye whiskey, to experimental ways, and others age or “fin- gravitating to whiskey today. I a story about his predeces- helped satisfy demand by spread- releases and the cult bourbon ish” whiskies in barrels made started in whiskey in 1998, and sor, Elmer T. Lee. “We were the ing their wings with line extensions of maple, hickory or other Pappy Van Winkle. you had people who were long- Bfirst to come out with a single-barrel such as Single Barrel woods, or in oak barrels made time whiskey drinkers, and they “I remember when I came to bourbon, Blanton’s, in 1984,” Wheat- and Maker’s 46, and the venerable using wood from a single tree, as in Buffalo Trace’s Single were either bourbon or scotch Buffalo Trace [in 1995], seeing ley says. “Elmer said they were going Brown-Forman company created a the potential that was here, Oak Project. drinkers—you didn’t have rye as to charge $25 a bottle, and the feed- connoisseurs network all its own by a category, and you didn’t have and in the whiskey industry. It’s back was, ‘Who’d pay that much for a regularly introducing limited-edition been a perfect storm of getting MULTIPLE BARRELS American single malts. But now bottle of bourbon?’ ” variations of its signature Woodford Distilleries such as New good information out, of new you have a much larger group; The answer—then, and now— Reserve bourbon. Meanwhile, the old York’s Hillrock Estate take products coming along like you have millennials, you have a is “almost everybody,” as bourbon’s guard of Kentucky distillers is being a solera-like approach to lot more women who are drink- single-barrel [bourbon] that whiskey, removing and adding fortunes have soared in the decades joined by a few new faces, as brands ing whiskey now, and this breadth revolutionized the way people small amounts of whiskey think about premium whiskey, since. Single-barrel bourbons and including Angel’s Envy and Michter’s from multiple barrels; other of who whiskey appeals to is the and the internet making it small-batch selections boosted bour- add brand-new distilleries to the distilleries may take whiskies biggest change. It’s no longer the possible to spread the word. bon into the spotlight before the turn Louisville scene. aged or finished in several lifelong bourbon or scotch drinker It was the right time—the of the millennium, and the thirst for But while bourbon booms, the types of barrels and mix them coming into the —it’s every- together, as in Woodford Re- WOOD TREATMENT ENVIRONMENT body, men and women, across the potential was always there. American whiskey in recent years real success story has been rye whis- Distillers are experimenting Buffalo Trace’s Warehouse serve’s limited-release Four board. I think we’ve seen such an There’s going to continue to has made the nation’s signature spirit key, which seemed to be on life sup- with everything from very light X runs tightly controlled Barrel Bourbon, which used explosion in craft distilleries—it’ll be a very rapid change over an ever-hotter commodity. As prices port only 15 years ago. Cocktail standard barrels as well as toasts of the wood to deep, experiments on barrels of the next five years. You have have crept up—the most sought- drinkers increasingly demanded intense chars, and some whiskey, exposing them to dif- be interesting to see who ma- maple casks, and repurposed tures, and who matures well. A lot about 1,000 distilleries in the after bourbons, such as Pappy Van rye for their Manhattans, and as the and port barrels. are mixing multiple woods ferent levels of infrared light, country, producing all kinds of Winkle (also made by Buffalo Trace), few remaining producers gradually together (inserting French oak temperature and humidity, of them will shut down, and we’re staves into a standard Ameri- to determine the role of such already seeing consolidation from products—there’s going to be a easily fetch four figures at online bumped up production (though the REPURPOSED can oak barrel, for example, variables on whiskey’s flavor; bigger companies buying craft huge variety of whiskey avail- auctions—Kentucky distillers have results take years to mature), some Taking a cue from Scottish distilleries, American whiskey as with Maker’s 46) or cutting other distilleries are putting distillers. It’ll be interesting to see able, and that variety is going sought to keep abreast of demand by entrepreneurs turned to a seemingly a barrel’s interior surface such variations into practice, to skyrocket. There’ll be a de- distillers are using barrels who remains independent, and eliminating some budget brands and bottomless well of rye whiskey from that once held sherry, rum, into honeycomb patterns to such as Jefferson’s Ocean- who keeps their integrity. That will cision for the customer when increase surface area. Aged Bourbon, which saw the replacing them with more mid-range MGP Ingredients in Indiana. MGP rye brandy or other and always be a solid point of differ- he walks through the door, whiskeys (sayonara, Old Fitzgerald is now sold under more than 40 dif- spirits, to age or finish whis- barrels loaded onto the deck of a ship and exposed to the entiation among distillers—to see based on where in the country and hello, Larceny) and dropping age ferent labels, and the whiskey has re- kies, picking up aromatics and he is—he’ll have local produc- elements while at sea. who remains independent and statements from established labels, shaped the way many drinkers think flavor along the way. ers, and [national] people like competitive.” the better to stretch a tight supply. about rye. us, and he’ll have to decide what to spend his money on. They’ll look for people with Sept. 2004 2004 2004 2004 2007 2008 2010 experience, but we’ll also have people trying new things, The American Whiskey Jess Graber and F. Booker Noe, Heaven Hill The U.S. Senate Jeff Arnett (right) As sales of Trail is launched, high- George Stranahan longtime master debuts its designates takes over as bourbon boom, which is why we do that, too. It lighting the history of begin producing distiller at Bourbon September as master distiller Maker’s Mark comes down to the curiosity of distilleries in Kentucky, Stranahan’s Jim Beam and Heritage Center National Bourbon at Jack Daniel’s, introduces customers.” Tennessee, , Colorado Whiskey grandson of in Bardstown, Heritage Month. leading the its first new Virginia and New York. in Denver, jump- the distillery’s making bourbon largest expansion product since starting interest namesake country a bigger of brands in the 1953. in American craft founder, dies in draw for whiskey company’s history. whiskies; the Kentucky. tourism. whiskey’s first release takes place in 2006. THE ROYCROFT COCKTAIL

Herbal and fruit lace this rye whiskey sour.

1 oz. rye whiskey (Crunkleton uses Rittenhouse 100-proof) ½ oz. green Chartreuse ½ oz. Bénédictine Left: Lara Ferroni; right: Stuart Mullenberg; illustration by Matty Newton; timeline images from left: courtesy of Hudson Whiskey, Tad Myers ½ oz. Cherry Heering WAYNE CARPENTER 1 oz. fresh lemon juice Mount Vernon, Washington The founder of Skagit Valley Tools: shaker, strainer Malting, Carpenter works with Glass: coupe bakers, brewers and distillers Garnish: thin slice of fresh to source and process specialty ginger grains, such as rare varieties of barley, triticale and other flavor- Shake the ingredients with ful grains, and to experiment ice, strain into a chilled with how the grains are utilized coupe, then garnish. american single malt for beer or whiskey. arly adopters often lead short ry’s prestige, and older expressions “In a way, the whiskey world’s Gary Crunkleton lives—they burn out or are from trailblazers such as St. George gotten more interesting because The Crunkleton bought out or are somehow are proving that there’s merit in stick- we’re going back and getting Chapel Hill, North Carolina subsumed into the bigger sys- ing with single malt for the long game. something that was lost. In Etem. But in the mid-1990s, when Lance “When we got into the business, we single malt whiskey, they started Winters signed on with Jörg Rupf at had a clear understanding of what refining the malts to preserve the flavors they were after— California’s St. George Spirits, the goal Americans could bring to the table that’s a success story. But malt was to do something relatively new, as when it comes to single-malt whiskey,” houses became more narrow well as to stick around long enough says Matt Hofmann, master distiller at in their ability to handle grains to see it mature. “The whole reason I Westland Distilling. of different varieties—not just started distilling was to make whis- When Westland debuted in 2010, rye versus barley, but there are key,” Winters says. “Jörg’s instruction it bet big on single malt, making the around 32,000 varieties of bar- to me was to make something original whiskey the only spirit the distillery ley, and most of them weren’t to the conversation about whiskey.” would produce. That bet’s paid off, not handled because they didn’t fit For that something original, Win- just for Westland—which sold to Remy the box of what they were look- ters set his sights on single malt, a style Cointreau in January—but for the cat- ing for, so they were forgotten. more synonymous with Scotland and egory, as well, with the distillery join- Today there are distillers like Japan. In doing so, St. George joined ing more than 30 other producers to Westland, Copperworks and St. a tiny cadre of single-malt distillers create the American Single Malt Whis- George who are interested in that’s now swelling into a small, but key Commission in 2016. “It’s become introducing flavors, rather than mighty, army. Single malts from dis- more obvious over time that American just using the same approach. tilleries including Seattle’s Westland, single malt has real potential,” says They’re perfecting the way to Denver’s Stranahan’s and Virginia’s Hofmann. “Not just as a novelty, but as make whiskey traditionally, Copper Fox have boosted the catego- a compelling category.” while also looking at introduc- ing new American flavors, like in the beer world. We’ve had some wonderful results in the 2010 2012 2013 2013 2014 2014 first tests, trying other barley varieties that aren’t standard Global giant Bourbon sales In a case later dubbed American whiskey exports Jimmy malt varieties, and trying differ- William Grant exceed $2.2 billion, “Pappygate,” 65 cases of top $1 billion in sales Holdings Russell (right) & Sons enters a up from $1.3 billion highly prized Pappy Van Winkle for the first time. Sales acquires celebrates his ent roasts of grain, like in beer. partnership with in 2003. bourbon disappear from a of all types of whiskey Beam, Inc. 60th anniversary We’re anxious for the whiskies Tuthilltown Spirits Kentucky warehouse. In 2015, in the U.S. add up to for $16 as 's to age, to see how that plays for production nine people are indicted by a $7 billion, surpassing billion. master distiller. and distribution of The Jim Beam distillery grand jury in Franklin County, vodka’s sales figure of out. We’re in a new chapter now, Hudson Whiskey, in Clermont, Kentucky, Kentucky, for engaging in $5.6 billion. While vodka reintroducing flavors that were in what’s seen as debuts its American organized crime in relation to sales still exceeded those forgotten.” a boon to craft Stillhouse center, marking the Van Winkle case and other of whiskey by volume, The distillers. a further foray by bourbon thefts that allegedly pilfered Atlantic projects whiskey distillers into tourism. more than $100,000 in bourbon. to pass vodka (in volume) by 2018. WHISKEY DAISY

This riff on a 19th-century classic matches bourbon’s subtle softness to rye’s bright spice. Illustration by Matty Newton, photo this page: Ben Krantz; facing page: Lara Ferroni; timeline images from left: courtesy of Jim Beam, courtesy of Heaven Hill 1 oz. bourbon ANN MARSHALL & 1 oz. rye whiskey SCOTT BLACKWELL ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice Charleston, South Carolina ½ oz. simple syrup (1:1) As owners and distillers at High Wire St. George Spirits. ½ oz. orgeat Distillery, Scott Blackwell and Ann Marshall produce two bourbons, a rye Tools: shaker, strainer whiskey, a sorghum whiskey, and a Glass: coupe recent limited-edition whiskey made the craft boom from heirloom Jimmy Red corn; the ewer than 20 distilleries sat- to national and global markets. Whis- Shake the ingredients with initial batch sold out in 11 minutes. isfied the taste for American keys from Tuthilltown Spirits (which ice to chill, then strain into a Ann: “When we got into the business, whiskey at the turn of the makes the Hudson Whiskeys line), chilled coupe. we knew there was no way we could millennium, but at the end of Anchor Distilling and Stranahan’s out–Maker’s Mark Maker’s Mark, or F2016, nearly 800 distilleries were pro- were early pickups, and in just the last Jim Kearns compete with Jack Daniel’s. But com- ducing (or had announced plans to year, Utah’s High West, Seattle’s West- Slowly Shirley ing from the natural-foods world, we produce) whiskey in some capacity land and West Virginia’s Smooth Am- New York City knew we could be nimble as a small (see the map on page 40). bler were all acquired by larger com- company—if we focus on the ingre- American classics are the style of panies. For many of these distillers, dients, and all the variables like the choice for many craft-whiskey distill- such partnerships make sense. “Most barrel, then we’ve got a leg up. We’ve ers, with bourbon now bottled from of the innovation is happening on the got liberty as a small company to ex- Washington state to Florida, and rye streets, and it’d be disingenuous for periment with things like traditional whiskey flowing from New England the big guys to come in and tell you grains that have a long heritage in to the desert Southwest. And while something is wrong,” says Westland’s Southern agriculture. There are now big distilleries that are growing test single malts edge into the spectrum, Matt Hofmann. “You’ll just see more plots; we feel that craft distillers have other more offbeat styles have begun exciting stuff in the future.” had a hand in pushing these guys, to emerge—corn whiskeys made But as American whiskey con- and making the playing field more with heirloom grain, whiskeys dis- tinues to build, some distillers warn diverse and interesting. That feels tilled from grains including millet caution and urge consumers to play like a win to everybody.” and triticale—and distilleries in ev- a role. “I’d encourage more people to ery corner of the country are adding support their local whiskey-makers, Scott: “I think whiskey’s going to local touches to the spirit, season- in whatever endeavors they’re do- get more interesting. As a whis- ing the grain with smoke from mes- ing,” says St. George’s Lance Winters. key drinker, I’ve had my share of mainstream whiskey, and I like the quite, cherry or apple trees, or using “The best things small guys have go- idea of regional distillers mak- regional grains such as sorghum or ing for them is their independence— ing their own marks. Not every Louisiana rice to create distinctive if you can help these guys preserve interesting-sounding thing is going local styles. their independence, there’s a good to be delicious, but it’s like what Craft whiskies have also caught chance they can do what they’re happened in food: Natural foods the eye of larger, established spirits meant to do, which is innovate and started out as things that tasted like companies that can take the whiskey be creative.” cardboard, but then people figured out that flavor wins in the end, and Nov. 2014 2015 Aug. 2015 May 2, 2016 Nov. 2016 Late 2016 Jan. 2017 they brought some enthusiasm to it. That same line of thinking is what The first bottle from the After 50 years in the Michter’s Jim Beam Angel’s Envy In a flurry of late-year business Parker Beam got us into this business, and we first batch of bourbon at spirits business, Distillery Bourbon opens its first maneuvers by large liquor (right), longtime Boundary Oak Distillery Four Roses master begins fills its 14 Louisville companies, Utah-based High master distiller have chefs [in Charleston] like Sean sold in an online auction distiller Jim Rutledge production at millionth distillery, at West Distillery is purchased at Heaven Brock and Mike Lata who are big for $25,500, the highest retires. The following its new facility barrel of a cost of $27 by Constellation Brands for Hill and a whiskey fans, and doing things with price paid for a bottle year, he announces in Louisville. bourbon—an million. a reported $160 million; member of one of American whiskey at plans to open his own industry Seattle’s Westland Distilling is of bourbon’s the same ingredients we’re talking auction, according to Kentucky distillery. record—since purchased by Remy-Cointreau most prominent about, and that keeps us charged. the Kentucky Distillers the repeal of for an undisclosed sum families, dies in It challenges us to do better, and to Association. Prohibition in (the deal became official in Kentucky. think a little harder and look a little 1933. January); and West Virginia’s Smooth Ambler sells a majority deeper. That’s our quest.” stake to Pernod-.