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No. 800

4-H Fabrics &

Clothing Construction

OKLAHOMA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE Authors

State 4-H Clothing Curriculum Development Committee Cynthia Bell, Extension 4-H Agent, Rogers County Doris Brehm, Volunteer Leader, Kingfisher County Karla Knoepfli, Extension 4-H Agent, Cleveland County Lynda Latta, Extension Home Economist, Ellis County Ginny McCarthick, Extension Home Economist, Johnston County Margaret McDonald, Volunteer Leader, Ellis County Susan Murray, Extension Home Economist, Woodward County Recia Poulson, Extension Home Economist, Woodward County Joanne Seymour, Volunteer Leader, Washita County

Project Coordinators Sheila Forbes, PhD, Extension Program Specialist, 4-H and Youth Development Jan Park, PhD, Extension Clothing Specialist

Edited by Pat Tsoodle, Curriculum Specialist, 4-H and Youth Development

OKLAHOMA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE

4-H Fabrics & Fashions

Clothing Construction

Table of Contents

Leader’s Guide Intermediate Level Construction Introduction Project Overview Evaluation Sheet for Clothing Sample Cards Exhibit Progress Chart Clothing Construction Record Advanced Level Construction Clothing Activities Project Overview Tailoring Beginning Level Construction Sample Cards Project Overview Progress Chart Patterns Sample Cards Additional Construction Information Progress Chart

Division of Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources Oklahoma State University OKLAHOMA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE

4-H Fabrics & Fashions

Construction

Leader’s Guide

Introduction update and clothing. Welcome to the ranks of 4-H Fabrics and  Members will develop construction, Fashions project leaders. As a leader you pressing and fitting skills for the purpose can make a real contribution to the lives of of making suitable and becoming apparel the young people in your community and for themselves and others. county.  Members will build self-confidence and In this project 4-H’ers will learn how to poise by developing the ability to make select and buy fabrics and clothes, how to the most of their personal attributes. develop good grooming habits, how color  Members will develop judgment and affects our moods and lives, how to care for creativity in planning attractive clothing items and how to make garments, wardrobes that express individual using various construction techniques. lifestyles. Through the clothing project, 4-H’ers will  Members will gain consumer skills in become more creative, develop the ability to making and purchasing clothing and make wise decisions and grow in self- accessories and in purchasing and using confidence and self-esteem. The manner in equipment related to clothing which you, the leader, help your 4-Hers construction and care. develop as individuals may be more  Members will acquire knowledge of important than the skills you actually teach. fibers, and processes for making Every 4-H’er has a different personality. fabric. Each has a capacity to learn and master  Members will become aware of career skills at varying times according to his or opportunities in clothing – her stage of development. Do not expect all design and construction, textiles, home- individuals to learn alike or to do the same based businesses, etc. quality of work. Each project and experience in the clothing program is designed to aid Responsibilities of 4-H Leaders the 4-H’ers development.  Know the subject matter.

 Attend leader training meetings and Objectives of 4-H Fabrics and Fashions workshops.  Members will challenge their  Study leader training materials. skills through the selection and use of  Understand 4-H clothing program new sewing techniques, fabrics and objectives. .  Work with a group and with individuals  Members will learn to identify, construct within a group. or modify clothing or products for home interiors and to meet special needs,  Develop leadership abilities in 4-H’ers. including those of the elderly and  Involve boys and girls in planning, physically disabled. carrying out and evaluating programs.  Members will learn how to recycle or  Conduct meaningful project meetings.  Teach something new at each meeting. lessons on a specific subject or activity.  Use visuals and samples related to the Careful planning is important to making subject matter. the best use of the limited time you have at  Help 4-H’ers select projects appropriate meetings. As the leader, you will want to to individual abilities or interests. organize the group according to your  Help 4-H’ers evaluate their garments or situation and for the greatest advantage to projects. the members. Consider the size of the group,  Realize that all individuals will not do the ability of members and your facilities. the same quality of work. Enlist the help of parents and/or older 4-  Help 4-H’ers to: H members. Allow 4-H’ers to help you plan o learn and improve sewing sessions. Each meeting should include construction skills; several short activities to hold the group’s o learn about fibers, fabrics and interest. finishes; o be better consumers; Teaching Methods o take care of their clothing; Our goal is to teach young people o gain self-confidence and poise. clothing skills and skills relating to  Help 4-H’ers develop positive attitudes. leadership and citizenship. Young people  Teach by emphasizing standards. learn attitudes as well as skills from leaders. If leaders are to be successful teachers, they  Encourage and advise, but do not do the must understand how youth learn. Younger work for members. members usually need more direction and  Recognize that young members need assistance. Older youth want to assert more attention. themselves and make many of their own

decisions (see table, next page). Try a Teaching the Project variety of teaching methods with your 4- A good program doesn’t just happen; it is H’ers. planned. As project leader and teacher you should become familiar with the objectives Demonstration or goals of the unit or units with which you One effective method for getting a point plan to work. The project materials may be across or teaching a technique is used in several ways. demonstration. When giving a

demonstration: Project Groups  Keep your directions simple. Four-H members enrolled in a group will  Physically demonstrate the technique. If select learning experiences as a group and possible, let 4-H’ers repeat the steps you complete a project under the guidance of a have taken. leader.

 Have step-by-step samples available for reference. Individual Participation  Be sure the information is accurate and A 4-H member does not have to be in a up to date. group to complete a project. Projects may be completed individually under the guidance  Work on an uncluttered surface so all of a leader. can see what you are doing.  Summarize. Special Interest Groups A group not planning to complete a Tours or Shopping Experiences clothing project may complete one or more Tours or shopping experiences, if well- planned, can have educational value and add example, an explanation of a textile law variety to your program. Make arrangements or fabric finish, a generic fiber or in advance with the store or facility you are trademark, instructions on removing a touring. Be sure the store is reputable and particular stain, an explanation of a care the personnel knowledgeable. Discuss with label or an identification of the weave or the manager or salesperson what you want knit of a fabric. emphasized. After the tour let the members evaluate by telling you what they learned. Knowing 4-H’ers in the Group Some possible touring opportunities include: A 4-H’er usually needs help identifying  Fabric stores. what he or she wants and needs to learn  Museums with costumes or textiles on from a project. Use this process to learn display. more about the 4-H’er. A leader often can  Beauty shops, beauty schools, barber help a youth learn by asking questions that shops. stimulate the youth to think and the leader to  Manufacturers of apparel, textiles or listen to ideas. Ask the 4-H’er to review his accessories. or her 4-H record, or bring the record, and  Home economics departments at high review it with him or her. schools or colleges. Having the member list what he or she  Dry cleaning plants. has learned from the clothing project areas is  Department stores or specialty shops. an easy way to start. The 4-H’er will  Commercial laundries. probably be surprised to see all he or she has learned (how to make shanks on ,  dealers. how to use consumer comparison criteria  Wholesale sales facilities. when purchasing clothing, how to test and Shopping trips to purchase fabric, identify fiber, how to talk to a judge, how to patterns and notions provide opportunities to select styles of clothing, etc.) teach quality of fabrics, use of books Here are questions you can ask 4-H’ers to and the variety of notions available for help you get to know them and remind them constructing garments. Similar shopping of the knowledge and skills they have trips to apparel stores can be used to gained. compare quality of fabric and workmanship  What did you do last year in the clothing in garments and brands of clothing. project?

Exhibits or Displays  What did you learn in the clothing project that was new? Exhibits or displays can also be teaching  Have you used this knowledge in other tools. They provide learning experiences for projects? those who prepare the exhibits or displays and also for those who view them. Every  What presentation(s) did you give last exhibit should have educational value. You, year? as a leader, should guide and direct the 4-H  What did you learn from those members in making the display. An exhibit presentations? could be:  What could have gone more smoothly in  A display of the member’s hand-sewn those presentations? garments, including information on fiber  What did you exhibit last year? content, care and cost.  What did you learn from the experience  A step-by-step sample of a construction of exhibiting? What will you do technique. differently next year?  A display to show and/or explain, for  What did you learn from Fashion Revue? Clothing selection? Clothing judging? guidelines when keeping records:  How did you share what you learned?  Be selective in your choice of materials.  Use current forms and state what you The next step is to help the 4-H’er decide have learned. what new skill to learn during the coming  Make sure your pictures tell a story. year. Ideally, the 4-H’er will want to learn  Realize that quality, not quantity, is the something in each area of the clothing key to good records. project, but don’t insist if interest is limited  Spell all words correctly. Use proper to only one or two areas. grammar. Encourage youth to be creative and  Consider these questions as you write identify what they really want to learn. Then your “4-H Story.” have them work with leaders and parent(s) o Why did I choose this activity or to find ways to learn. Repetition of learning project? helps 4-H’ers gain greater understanding o What things did I try that were and skill. However, youth also should have successful? challenging new learning experiences. Four- o What things did I try that were H members can better see what they have disappointing? done and learned by: o How have my 4-H experiences  Writing project goals (what they want to helped me, my family, and others? learn) and keeping records from one year o How have my 4-H experiences to the next. helped me develop citizenship and  Writing project accomplishments (what leadership qualities? they accomplished and what life skills o How has 4-H influenced my career they gained). plans?  Evaluating project experiences through o What are my future plans? discussion with the leader. (Be very specific in your evaluation discussions.) Illustrated Presentations and Talks Encourage each member to give at least 4-H Fabrics and Fashions Records one illustrated presentation or talk during the Record-keeping helps 4-H’ers organize year to fellow members or other groups. and evaluate what they have learned. You, Assist 4-H’ers in selecting topics of interest. as the leader, need to encourage members to Give them suggestions on how to use keep records and help them understand why visuals. Encourage them to learn what they they are important. Set aside time in project are presenting, not to parrot something they meetings to work on completing records. have memorized. Good records should be a source of pride and a permanent record of progress and Hints on Giving Illustrated Presentations accomplishment. They can stimulate self- and Talks improvement, because records show where  Select the subject. improvement is needed.  Collect references, information and Encourage 4-H’ers to record the materials on the subject. completion of each garment or activity as  Be sure information is accurate and up- soon as it is complete. That is the secret to to-date. keeping accurate records. Record keeping  Outline the main points. should be an integral part of the 4-H clothing program.  Plan an introduction. Instruct 4-H’ers to follow these  Use neat posters. Be sure they are large enough for the audience to see.  Keep table uncluttered in illustrated  Offer to do chores or mending for a shut- presentations. in.  Speak clearly.  Set up a question-answering service on  Do not read from note cards. clothing care at a local laundromat.  Practice, practice, practice!  Develop short radio spots about fabrics, care of clothing and fashion tips. Leadership aid Citizenship Activities  Become involved in National Sewing Leadership and citizenship activities are a Month or promotion of cotton or wool. part of every 4-H project. The following list  Have a community sewing fair, and should serve as a springboard for your 4- involve local shops and stores. H’ers to come up with their own ideas.  Organize a community-wide pattern  Assist with 4-H meetings and activities. and/or clothing exchange.  Serve as a teen project leader, and help  Help involve local department stores in younger 4-H’ers with their clothing presenting programs to 4-H groups or projects. clubs on accessorizing or shopping for  Assist with style shows for club, school clothing. or other community functions.  Give program presentations for school  Model in style shows for local stores or classes on fabric safety and flame community clubs. retardancy.  Help other 4-H members with clothing  Plan activities that will benefit the demonstrations and speeches. community.  Do news articles and radio or television  Serve as an interview judge for the spots about club activities. clothing projects of younger members.  Arrange to do a clothing display on  Help with historic costume displays at a recycling clothing items or some other local museum. clothing- or fabric-related topic in the  Prepare games, using fabric samples to library, at school or in a local store. illustrate fabric textures.  Sponsor grooming clinics for special  Write a script and stage a show about groups. textiles.  Assist with clothing exhibits at local and  Discuss behavior of a good citizen when area fairs. shopping for clothing, cosmetics or other  Construct costumes for a community grooming or apparel products. drama club or 4-H talent show.  Help a summer theater, grade school  Collect clothing for home fire victims. play or talent festival by making or  Help collect and recycle clothing for locating costumes and props. Salvation Army, Red Cross, Goodwill, or local charitable organizations.  Volunteer to make curtains for 4-H camp cabins, homeless shelters and teen Clothing Construction Outline activity centers. This outline is designed to give you some  Make clothing items for special groups – ideas for topics to cover as you work with lap robes for rest home residents, stuffed youth in the clothing project. animals for a children’s home, etc.  Help teach a class for the elderly on Equipment clothing for special needs. What is needed and how is it used? What  Make a 4-H banner for parade floats. is essential and what is optional?  Sewing machine, needles, garment.  Iron, ironing board, press cloth, sleeve  Referring to pattern for amount to board, ’s ham, roll, pounder purchase.  Shears or , , seam gauge, yard stick Selecting , Underlining or  chalk, marking pencil/pen  Pens, sewing needles, ,  Purpose of each and where they are used. cushion  Types available and characteristics of  Notions (as needed for project), buttons, each. hooks and eyes,  How to determine which one to use.  Cutting board  Preparing for use.

Pattern and Fabric Selection Preparing Fabric Deciding What to Construct  Straightening and checking .  Wardrobe needs.  Restoring right structure.  Level of sewing skill.  Shrinking (when and which fabrics to  Clothing construction project. pre-shrink, or pre-wash).  Working with difficult fabrics, such as plaids or stripes and fabrics with a nap or Altering the Pattern pile. Why and when to alter  Color, line, and texture selection.  Altering for comfort, appearance, and durability and to disguise figure Choosing a Pattern irregularities.  Style –  Importance of making major alterations o Choosing patterns that diminish on pattern before cutting fabric. figure irregularities and are flattering  Internal and external methods. to the figure. o Compatibility of pattern and fabric. Checking pattern for fit o Construction details (should  Adjust pattern to individual body challenge sewing abilities but not measurements. exceed them).  Pin fit.  Size and type –  Make garment in muslin, if necessary. o Taking body measurements. o Understanding sizing and Guidelines measurements of commercial  If you alter one pattern piece, you may patterns. have to alter the adjoining piece. o Determining pattern size and type.  Slashing lines for internal alterations are

usually parallel or perpendicular to Selecting Fabric lengthwise grain.  Characteristics of woven, knit and  Consider total amount to be added or nonwoven fabric. taken away when making width  Care labeling. alterations.  Selecting for beginners, intermediate and  Changed or distorted lines must be advanced. returned to their original character –  Quality. straight or curved.  Suitability to pattern style and use of  When adding or taking away from edge of pattern the new lines must have the fabrics.) same character as the original.  Alter shaped pattern pieces internally to Cutting prevent changing the shape.  Use sharp shears, making long cuts.  Pattern grain lines must be straight when  accurately. Follow pattern carefully. alterations are completed.  After completing an alteration, check Using the Sewing Machine carefully to see if the width or length is  selection. added or removed where needed.  Needle selection.  On any pattern the most difficult areas to  Threading. alter and preserve as originally designed  Checking tension. are the chest, and armhole.  Cleaning and oiling.  Pattern pieces should be perfectly flat when alterations are completed. Stitching and Pressing Pressing Pattern Layout Cutting and Marking  Equipment. Pattern Layout  Techniques for use.  Study guide sheet.  Construction pressing.  Lay large pieces first; then fit small ones.  Pin pieces, grain line first. Stay-Stitching and Directional Stitching  Allow one-inch side seams (to use for  How and Why? fitting, if needed).  Check all pattern pieces for grain line, Seams seam allowances, alterations and  Types. markings.  Locations and purpose.

 How to pin, stitch and press. Marking

 Equipment (Note: ’s carbon Facings and are not recommended.)  Fitted o Tailor’s chalk/pencil o Contrasting  Techniques – o Marking pencils o o o Grading o Soap o Under-stitching o Tacking  Methods o Chalk and marking pencils (for  finish for marking darts, placing , etc.) o Tailor tacks (These are accurate, but Tucks, , Gathers slow to use and can be pulled out  Tucks – Good for marking center, front and o Purpose back, sleeve cap, and any marks you o Stitching need to see from the right side of the  Pleats – garment.) o Types o Pins (These are fast for the accurate o Marking seamstress, using certain fabrics.) o Pinning Snips in (for the o Stitching experienced seamstress, using certain  – o Measuring for amount of fullness o Methods  Zippers –  Types o Types  Techniques o Methods (lapped, centered, hand- picked, front, invisible) Cuffs  Pockets –  Types o In-seam  Application o Patch o Lined Sleeves o Unlined  Set-in o Square  Methods o Round  Application o Slot o Welt  Finishing o Invisible stitched  Other methods

Assembling the Garment Finishing the Garment Organize construction in units, for Joining bodice and skirt example, bodies and skirt. Recognize a  Waistline stay good fit.  Casing  Crosswise grain line should be parallel to floor. Waistbands  Lengthwise grain should be  Measuring perpendicular to floor at center front and  Interfacing back, unless design dictates otherwise.  Application  Lengthwise and cross-grain line of  Belt loops sleeve should hang perpendicular and parallel to floor, respectively. and Edge Finishes  Sufficient should be allowed for Preparing the comfort and ease of movement. Selecting the finish Developing skill in fitting  Darts (length, width, placement) Special  Seam lines  Wrinkles (indicate problem) Buttons and Fasteners Buttons Collars and Cuffs  Selection Collars  Placement  Types  Attaching  Cutting  Stitching  Grading  Placement  Under-stitching  Types  Applying to garment  Techniques  Adding facing Snaps measurements with pattern, or pin-fit pattern to see if garment Hooks and Eyes will fit. Beginners should do  Selecting simple alternatives only – length,  Attaching width and locations.)  Thread eyes e. Adjustments. II. Check layout before cutting garment. Belts and Belt III. Cut garment and interfacing. Fabric Belts IV. Mark and stay stitch.

Fabric Covered Buckles Assignment: Study guide sheet. Complete at home, if necessary. Belt Loops Third Session: Beginning to Sew Final Pressing I. Pin-fitting garment to check fit.

II. Darts. (The dart is one of the most difficult parts to stitch correctly. Have participants do a sample before stitching darts in garment. Use a Suggested Outline for Lessons straight edge to guide your stitching.) III. Pressing. First Session: Preparing to Sew and IV. Sewing and finishing seams. Sewing Machine Savvy V. Facings. I. How to measure and select pattern VI. Grading and under stitching. size and type. VII. Importance of interfacing. II. How to take body measurements. VIII. Finishing facing edge with a neckline III. How to selection a pattern. (In a zipper. beginning class you may want to IX. facing. select five to 10 patterns and let participants select one of those.) How Assignment: Have participants complete to select and prepare fabric, seam finishes on garment if they are interfacing and notions. comfortable sewing at home with IV. Grain of fabric. supervision. Otherwise you will need to V. Basic sewing equipment needed. supervise their sewing. VI. How to use the sewing machine. (Use a simple project, such as a pin Fourth Session: Zipping It Up cushion, pot holder, etc.) I. Zippers. (What type is appropriate for which type of garment and closure?) Assignment: Purchase pattern, fabric and notions. Launder and press fabric. Assignment: Follow guide sheet for construction. Participants may want to do a Second Session: Learn about Patterns sample zipper application. and Marking I. Learn about patterns. Fifth Session: Closures a. Pattern envelope. I. Fasteners. b. Pattern symbols. II. Side seams. c. Guide sheet. III. Checking fit of garment. d. Measurements. (Check IV. Marking hem. Production supervisor Warehouse management Assignment: Have participants make Transportation and shipping director samples of the closures they will be using on Personnel director their garments. Public relations representative Purchasing director Sixth Session: Finishing the Garment Fashion coordinator I. Finishing hem. II. Final pressing. Apparel Production III. Modeling garment. Sketcher Designer Pattern maker Sample maker Careers Advertising and promotion manager Sales representative Throughout history, textiles and clothing Production supervisor have been an essential part of everyday Finisher living. Today, and in the future, textiles and Machine operator clothing will continue to be important. There are many products and services and Fashion coordinator many occupational opportunities related to Fitter and alterationist the fields of clothing and textiles. Each Sewing instructor specific occupation requires a diverse range Cutter of abilities, interests and education, Marker providing an almost unlimited variety of Spreader career possibilities. Presser A list of occupational groups and specific Examiner occupations within each group follows. Production inspector This list does not cover every occupation, Machine mechanic but it should at least provide you with Plant engineer suggestions. Plant manager Personnel director Manufacturing Fibers and Fabric Fiber production engineer and chemist Retail Store Fabric production engineer (Independent, chain, mail order) Fiber and fabric librarian Merchandising Educational consultant Sale personnel Industry consultant Head of stock Publicity executive Department manager Market researcher Buyer Textile artist Assistant buyer Color stylist Display personnel Machine operator Advertising and promotion manager Spinner Fashion coordinator Weaver Personnel manager Record clerk Merchandise distributor Mechanic Comparison shopper Market researcher and reporter Customer service manager Account executive Copy writer Home Sewing Industry Art director (sewing machine companies) Illustrator Demonstrator Fashion coordinator Sales personnel Photographer Educational representative Researcher and marketing manager Advertising and promotion manager Machine mechanic Consumer and Trade Publications Market researcher Fashion editor Machine engineer Merchandiser Advertising sale Pattern Companies Distributor Designer Researcher Artist Reporter Sample maker Public relations representative Pattern drafter Pattern grader Consulting Services Draper Consultant Educational consultant Researcher and reporter Pattern direction editor Account executive Catalog photographer Catalog editor Television and Radio Commercial Pattern layout and measuring specialist Production Market researcher and reporter Researcher Promotion director and assistant Fashion reporter and writer Broadcaster Notion Suppliers (Home sewing and apparel production Trade Associations companies) Researcher – market and legislation Production consultant Publicity director Sales representative Convention director Educational consultant Machine operator Teaching Production supervisor Elementary, junior high and high school Machine mechanic teacher Plant manager High school vocational education teacher Adult education teacher Accessories Trade Junior college, university and college Designer teacher Production consultant Youth and adult organization teacher Sales representative Fashion consultant Cooperative Extension Service Advertising and promotion manager Extension agent Extension advisor Planning and Promotion Textile and clothing specialist (Advertising agencies) Administration – county director, district director, director Designer Materials production Museums Instruction writer Photograph file clerk Display specialist Reference file clerk Demonstrator Display supervisor Materials tester Care and preservation specialist Market researcher Researcher Manufacturing supervisor Educational consultant Sample maker Editor of museum publication Sales representative Distributor Fine Arts and Theater Costume designer, seamstress and Free Lance alterationist Lecturer Demonstrator Dry Cleaning and Uniform Specialist Custom clothing construction seamstress Counter sales Writer Dry cleaner-spotter Designer Route sales Consultant Sales representative Fashion magazines Plant manager Trade publications Alterationist Billboards Uniform fashion coordinator Television Inspector Assembler and recorder

Toy Manufacturing Stuffed animal designer Doll clothing designer Sample maker Cutter Marker Production worker Production supervisor

Interior Decorating Furniture and upholstery designer Upholsterer Drapery seamstress Carpeting specialist

Transportation Industry Automobile, truck, bus, train, airlines, subway interior and upholstery designer and upholsterer

Handicraft, Art Object and Recreational Some Additional References

Black, Lynette R., and Wisner, L., Serging for the Home, Palmer/Pletsch, Portland, OR, 1991. DeCosse, Cy, Singer Sewing for the Home, Minnetonka, MN, 1988. DeCosse, Cy, Singer Sewing Secrets, Minnetonka, MN, 1989. DeCosse, Cy, Singer Tailoring, Minnetonka, MN, 1988. Hellyer, B., Sewing Magic, Sew/Fit, Chilton, Radnor PA, 1979.

Parson, Ann, Serge and Sew: Time Saving Serger Tips, Stretch and Sew, Eugene, Oregon, 1984. Pooser, Doris, Successful Style: A Man’s Guide to a Complete Professional Image, NO PUBLISHER, 1988. Shaeffer, Claire B., The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts, Sterling, New York, 1981. Yount, T., and L. Bottom, ABCs of Serging: A Complete Guide to Serger Sewing Basics, Chilton, Radnor, PA, 1992.

Parts of this section were adapted from the following: Cutright, Pamela, Pennsylvania 4-H Clothing and Textiles Member Manuals, Pennsylvania State Cooperative Extension Service, University Park, PA, 1985. 4-H Member’s Clothing Activities, Intermediate Level, University of California, Cooperative Extension Service, Berkeley, CA, 1983. Hackler, Nadine, Sewing Construction Series, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, 1986. Hargrave, Harriet, Heirloom Machine Quilting. Johnson, Sherri, Exploration in Textiles and Clothing, Agricultural Extension Service, University of Minnesota, 1981. Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, Reader’s Digest Association, Pleasantville, NY, 1978. “Seams for Transparent Fabrics,” Minnesota Fabrics, June, 1991. Shaeffer, Claire, The Complete Book of Sewing Shortcuts, Sterling, New York, 1981. Smith, Charlotte, 4-H Clothing Project Leader Guide, Cooperative Extension Service, Iowa State University, Ames, IA, 1984. Strategies for Clothing, Cornell Cooperative Extension Service, 1988. Texas Agricultural Extension Service, Clothing Leader Guide, Texas A&M University System, College Station, TX, 1987.

There are many kinds of teaching techniques. It is often necessary to choose the correct one. Experts tell us the greatest learning occurs when people hear, see and do something. The cone of experience can serve as a guide for selecting the appropriate teaching techniques. Think of your favorite learning activities. Where do they fir on the cone of experience? Plan and conduct a learning experience, using each teaching technique within the top half of the cone.

Cone of Experience Teaching Methods and Techniques

Actual experience (4-H projects)

Working with models

Judging – dramatic participation

Discussions

Demonstrations

Field trips – tours

Exhibits – Displays

Movies

Radio – recordings

Slides – filmstrips

Still pictures

Radio – recordings

Illustrated talks, Charts, graphs, Posters, maps

Printed matter, talks

Characteristics of Age Group Implications for Leader

9-11 years old Active, with boundless energy • Like group Active learning experiences to develop 1. activity. physical skills.

2. Short attention span for mental activity. Encourage many brief learning experiences.

Encourage learning experiences to be done 3. Like to be with members of their own sex. with members of same sex. Usually do best when work is laid out in Use detailed outlines of the learning 4. small pieces. Eager to try new things. experiences. Encourage junior leaders to work closely 5. Admire and imitate older boys and girls. with younger members. Do not like to keep records and do not see the Work closely with them in completing 6. value in them. records of their leadership work. 12-14 years old Concerned about physical development and Encourage learning experiences related to 1. being liked by friends, social graces, good self understanding and getting along with grooming. others. Coordination is better than with younger age Encourage deeper exploration and 2. group. concentrate on developing individual skills.

3. Prefer action-oriented projects. Encourage, active, fun learning experiences.

Greater ability for team work and enjoy Encourage learning experiences involving 4. activities involving boys and girls. boys and girls. Want to participate in decisions and be Encourage working with adults and older 5. independent but still need guidance. teens to complete learning experiences. 15-19 years old Want and need a strong voice in planning Allow youth to plan activities that allow for 1. their own programs. differences in interests, needs, and skills.

2. Are developing community consciousness. Encourage community service activities.

Focus some activities on the self, both physical and social, to help youth learn to 3. Have social needs and desires which are high. accept themselves and develop self- confidence. Are beginning to think of leaving home for Apply leadership life skills to career 4. college, employment, marriage, etc. exploration, especially decision-making.

Suggested Topics for Demonstrations or Illustrated Talks

Placing a Pattern on Fabric Marking Methods How Do You Measure Up? Making Lingerie Get Lined Up Making Bathing Suits A Shrinking Success Application of Elastic Do Labels on the Bolt Make Sense to You? Application of Trims The Finishing Touch Using Plaids Pointers Using Stripes Fascinating Fasteners Pressing Pointers Castoffs to Showoffs Using One-Day Designs The Inside Story Leather or Leather-Like Fabrics Show Your Colors How to Thread a Needle and Make a Fiber Facts Knot A Pressing Engagement How to Use Shears Lost Any Buttons Lately? How to Thread a Sewing Machine Learn as You Sew Hemming a Flared Skirt Blueprint for a Wardrobe You Can Make Lining a Garment Appliqués Playing With Plaids Selecting Needles and Threads Selection and Coordination Pants for Your Figure Put a Little in Your Life Underlining a Garment Colorful Chokes Know Your Hemming Stitches How to Use Sewing Tools Covering a Belt How to Straighten Fabric Making Decorative Belts Different Methods of Basting Lapped Zipper Application How to Test and Correct Machine Tension Fly Front Zipper Application Topstitching Facing Edge Finishes How and Why to Stay stitch How and When to Use Interfacing The Collar Story What Interfacing to Use Stitch less Sewing Sweater Knit Fabrics Be Creative with Trims Fabric Care Labels – Where? What? Sewing with Linen Why? Setting in Sleeves Pattern Alterations Taking Body Measurements Waistline Treatments Using Measurements to Determine Pattern Size Fun with Fake Fur Selecting Pattern Type and Size Making a Body Suit How to Do a Layout Making T-Shirts Selecting Woven Fabric Using a Rib Knit Trim Selecting Knit Fabric Making a Continuous Bound Selecting Suitable Fabric for a Pattern Mitering a Corner Combining Patterns, Color, Textures Press as You Sew How to Straighten Grain Pressing Equipment How to Use a Guide Sheet Making a Round Collar Napped Fabrics

EVALUATION SHEET FOR CLOTHING EXHIBITS

Participant______Level______

County______Score______

NOT Well SELECTION APPLICABLE Done COULD BE IMPROVED Fabric Suitable for pattern design Multiple fabrics coordinate Interfacing and supportive fabrics coordinate Notions Thread Button Trim Other Condition Cleanliness Pressing __ Under pressed __ Over pressed CONSTRUCTION Cut on grain Matching of design Facings __ Trimming and grading seams __ Clipping, notching curves __ Under stitching __ Better pressing __ Evenness at closure __ Secure at seams Collar __ Trimming and grading seams __ Clipping, notching curves __ Under stitching __ Better pressing __ Evenness at closure __ Secure at seams Sleeves (set-in) __ Ease correctly distributed __ Underarm seam reinforced __ Correct placement of set-in sleeve Sleeve Finish __ Ease distributed evenly Cuffs __ Underarm seam reinforced __ Correct placement of set-in sleeve Hem __ Select a finish more suitable for fabric __ Even in width __ Size of stitches NOT Well SELECTION APPLICABLE Done COULD BE IMPROVED Darts __ Stitching to point __ Secure threads __ Pressing in proper direction Gathers, pleats, tuck, bindings __ Distributing evenly __ Even in width Topstitching __ Size of stitches __ Distance from edge __ Stitching straight __ Type thread Fasteners Hooks and eyes, snaps, __ Securely fastened other __ Correctly applied Button Holes __ Lips even in width __ Buttonholes all the same size __ Evenly spaced __ Size suited to buttons __ More accurate stitching and pressing __ Method suited to fabric Buttons __ Thread __ Correctly applied Zippers, placket __ Correct application __ Even stitching Waistline, skirt band, belt __ Even in width __ Correct lap __ Interfaced Pockets __ Correct application __ Even in size __ Placement Seams and seam finishes __ Correct seam finish __ Adjoining seams matched Hems __ Even in width __ Distribution of ease __ Size of stitches __ Correct edge finish Other

______Judges Name Date OKLAHOMA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE

4-H Fabrics & Fashions

Clothing Construction Record ______(Year)

Name______

Route or Street Address______City______Zip Code______

Parent’s Signature______

Club______

County______

Age______Grade in School______Years in 4-H______Years in Clothing Project______

Attach additional pages, if needed

items made, repaired, fabric fiber date cost savings altered, recycled type content completed

1. ______

2. ______

3. ______

4. ______

5. ______

6. ______

Division of Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources Oklahoma State University What did you learn from:

Item 1? ______

Item 2? ______

Item 3? ______

Item 4? ______

Item 5? ______

Item 6? ______

What sewing equipment did you learn to use? ______

______

What new skills did you acquire? ______

______

What do you need to improve? ______

______

What demonstration and/or exhibits did you give? ______

______

Title Location Date

How did you help others? ______

______