Charles Kleibacker, Master of the Bias Cut; Designs, Construction and Techniques
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Designer Arnold Scaasi Talks About His Designs at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York
Invite young people into the Cecil conversation with books THURSDAY, AUGUST 6, 2015 39 Photo shows an aerial view of down town Jordan where the Roman theatre is seen on the 29th of July. — Photo by Islam Al-Sharaa Modern Etiquette: Designer Ten rules for success in the workplace ver a century ago, legendary magnate John D Rockefeller Arnold Scaasi said, “I will pay more for the ability to deal with people Othan any other skill under the sun.” Since then, studies by companies such as Google have echoed his thinking by pointing out that the most effective managers and executives possess strong interpersonal skills. Thus, here are my Ten Commandments for Effective Business dead at 85 Behavior: In this Oct 10, 2002 file photo, fashion designer Arnold Scaasi talks about his designs at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. 1. Thou shalt have a positive attitude. Everybody has bad days. Nobody has the right to take it out on others. Rudeness, impoliteness, surliness, ugly moods, unprovoked displays of esigner Arnold Scaasi, whose bright, flamboyant recalled the designer as “an amazing individual, so inim- First lady anger, and general unpleasantness can be costly to your creations adorned first ladies from Mamie itable - very funny and witty, a real personality.” She called For Barbara Bush, he designed a number of outfits career. DEisenhower to Laura Bush and film stars from his designs “colorful, feminine and sculptural.” including her two-toned, deep blue “Barbara blue” 1989 2. Thou shalt respect yourself and others in cyberspace. E-mail is Elizabeth Taylor to Barbra Streisand, has died. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Fantasticks 2 Playbill
JUNE 7 - JULY 1 Sales Exchange Co., Inc. Jewelers and Collateral Loanbrokers Classic and Contemporary Platinum and Gold Jewelry designs that will excite your senses. One East Main St., Patchogue 631.289.9899 www.wmjoneills.com Mention this ad for 10% discount on purchase 2 The Pine Grove Inn has served generations of guests since its establishment in 1910. Our seasonal menus emphasize prime beef, fresh local seafood and the traditional German fare which made us famous. The Palm Bar & outdoor patio overlooks the Swan River. $6 Martinis Enjoy Live Music Thursday through Saturday Tuesday through Friday Open for Lunch and Dinner Wednesday through Sunday from 4-7 at the bar Available for Parties Monday & Tuesday Choose us for your next special event – our catering department will be pleased to work with you to design your affair Wednesday Lobsterfest Thursday Prime Rib Night Chapel Avenue & First St., Patchogue, NY 11772 • 631.475.9843 www.pinegroveinn.com PRESENT THIS VOUCHER FOR PRESENT THIS VOUCHER FOR $5 OFF LUNCH $10 OFF DINNER on checks of $30 or more on checks of $60 or more Expires July 7, 2006. Reservations suggested. Expires July 7, 2006. Reservations suggested. May not be combined with any other promotional offer. May not be combined with any other promotional offer. Specialists in Family Owned & Quality & Service Operated Since 1976 1135 Montauk Hwy., Mastic • 399-1890/653-RUGS 721 Rte. 25A (next to Personal Fitness), Rocky Point • 631-744-1810 Open 7 Days We love it when you love what you’re walking on. 4 European-style Desserts and Espresso Drinks Open Late 6 Nights per Week Signature Martini Bar Outdoor Café Seating Live Jazz Every Thursday & Restaurant Late Night Friday Zagat Rated Excellent 2001-2006 14 Station Road, Bellport Village 286-3300 GATEWAY PLAYHOUSE 2006 5 E HARBOR SID TH “Incomparable Seafood Restaurant” E Highly Recommended: Open 7 Days a Week * * * at 11:30 a.m. -
That Was a T-Shirt!!! We Need Tops! While Cotton Tops Are Easy to Make, Knit Tops Are the Most Versatile Due to the Forgiving Stretch
That was a t-shirt!!! We need tops! While cotton tops are easy to make, knit tops are the most versatile due to the forgiving stretch. Because of the challenges in working with knit fabric, updating a t-shirt is the perfect compromise. Our goal is to have someone look at our top and say “that was a t-shirt?!” All hemlines need to be removed and restyled and the neckline needs to be either ruffled (size small and some medium) or trimmed. Here are some guidelines that we are looking for. Simply sewing a decorative stitch or zigzag over the existing hemline (sleeves and bottom hem) does not make visual changes to the t-shirt. Please cut off the existing hemline and if you like, you can make it shorter. If you have a serger, you can finish the edge prior to hemming but because the knit does not ravel it is not necessary. You also do not need to turn over the edge prior to hemming. Sleeves Match the sleeves and cut off both hems at the same time. You can cut straight or at an angle and make it a cap sleeve Use a decorative stitch for the hemming, variegated thread looks great! Use either white or black thread in the bottom as variegated thread is expensive. Remember to sew on the right side with your finger on the bottom feeling for the fabric edge. Watch for those sales and coupons!! Sulky blendables, 30 weight, 100% cotton is very nice to use. If you hem with a straight stitch, make it a little longer perhaps 3.0 and add some elastic to make it gathered at the hem edge. -
For Immediate Release
‘ICE DREAMS’ CAST BIOS SHELLEY LONG (Harriet Clayton) – Shelley Long is an Emmy® and Golden Globe-winning actress. She began her career after attending Northwestern University by performing in small films and local theater, eventually becoming co-host and associate producer of a critically acclaimed Chicago magazine show “Sorting it Out,” for which she won three local Emmys. She eventually returned to her first passion, acting, and joined Chicago’s famed Second City improvisational comedy troupe. Shortly after, Long landed a role as barmaid Diane Chambers in the long-running NBC comedy “Cheers.” Long entertained audiences for five seasons, garnering an Emmy and two Golden Globes. She returned for the series’ top-rated finale and has reprised her “Cheers” role in guest appearances on NBC’s “Frasier,” one episode garnering an Emmy nomination. Long recently starred in a film short titled “A Couple of White Chicks at the Hairdresser,” and starred in a children’s DVD, “Mr. Vinegar and the Curse.” In 2006, Long starred in “Honeymoon With Mom” on Lifetime, and co-starred in the Hallmark Channel Valentine’s Day movie, “Falling In Love with the Girl Next Door.” She has made a number of guest TV appearances including “Boston Legal,” “Yes, Dear, “Joan of Arcadia,” “Complete Savages” and, most recently, ABC’s hit comedy “Modern Family.” Long was seen in the Robert Altman film “Dr. T and the Women” for Artisan Entertainment. Written by Anne Rapp and executive produced by Cindy Cowan and James McLindon, the film tells the story of a gynecologist, played by Richard Gere, who is battling a mid-life crisis. -
Spring 2017 Arches 5 WS V' : •• Mm
1 a farewell This will be the last issue o/Arches produced by the editorial team of Chuck Luce and Cathy Tollefton. On the cover: President EmeritusThomas transfers the college medal to President Crawford. Conference Women s Basketball Tournament versus Lewis & Clark. After being behind nearly the whole —. game and down by 10 with 3:41 left in the fourth |P^' quarter, the Loggers start chipping away at the lead Visit' and tie the score with a minute to play. On their next possession Jamie Lange '19 gets the ball under the . -oJ hoop, puts it up, and misses. She grabs the rebound, Her second try also misses, but she again gets the : rebound. A third attempt, too, bounces around the rim and out. For the fourth time, Jamie hauls down the rebound. With 10 seconds remaining and two defenders all over her, she muscles up the game winning layup. The crowd, as they say, goes wild. RITE OF SPRING March 18: The annual Puget Sound Women's League flea market fills the field house with bargain-hunting North End neighbors as it has every year since 1968 All proceeds go to student scholarships. photojournal A POST-ELECTRIC PLAY March 4: Associate Professor and Chair of Theatre Arts Sara Freeman '95 directs Anne Washburn's hit play, Mr. Burns, about six people who gather around a fire after a nationwide nuclear plant disaster that has destroyed the country and its electric grid. For comfort they turn to one thing they share: recollections of The Simpsons television series. The incredible costumes and masks you see here were designed by Mishka Navarre, the college's costumer and costume shop supervisor. -
Mitsuko Shitara.Pdf
PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DE SÃO PAULO PUC-SP MITSUKO SHITARA 1960’: Nova Iorque, Londres, Paris e São Paulo Mestrado em História São Paulo Abril de 2010 PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DE SÃO PAULO PUC-SP MITSUKO SHITARA 1960’: Nova Iorque, Londres, Paris e São Paulo Mestrado em História Dissertação de Mestrado apresentada à Banca Examinadora da Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, como exigência parcial para obtenção do título de Mestre em História, sob a orientação da Profa. Dra. Yvone Dias Avelino. São Paulo Abril de 2010 Banca Examinadora: ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ Para Kanoe, com muita saudade. Agradecimentos No caminho percorrido entre o início da pesquisa e o depósito desta dissertação, pude contar com o auxílio precioso de diversas pessoas, que me estenderam a mão e emprestaram seus ombros, seus livros e seus conhecimentos, de formas tão diferentes, nos mais diferentes momentos, todos eles muito especiais e essenciais. Antes de mais nada, gostaria de deixar registrada minha eterna gratidão e admiração por Yvone Dias Avelino, que aceitou o desafio de orientar este trabalho. Ao longo dos anos, pude contar com sua compreensão, tolerância e paciência, sua imensa bondade e generosidade bem como a atenção e o jogo de cintura com que tratou minhas limitações de tempo. Quantas e quantas vezes incentivou-me nos momentos em que fraquejava, fortalecendo-me com seus ensinamentos. Sou-lhe eternamente devedora. Agradeço também a meus professores do programa de Mestrado da Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo (PUC-SP), que tiveram a capacidade de fazer uma ex-engenheira entender melhor o ofício de historiador e despertaram em mim um interesse mais profundo pela investigação histórica. -
Charles James, Um Astro Sem Atmosfera No Mundo Da Moda
[por que ler...?] [ MARIA LUCIA BUENO ] Professora do Instituto de Artes e Design da Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora (MG). Doutora em Sociologia (IFCH-UNICAMP), com pós-doutorado em Sociologia da Arte, da Cultura e da Moda (EHESS e Université Paris-Est ). É autora, entre outros, de Artes plásticas no século XX: modernidade e globalização (Imprensa Oficial, 2001) e organizadora de Sociologia das artes visuais no Brasil (Senac, 2012). E-mail: [email protected] Charles James, um astro sem atmosfera no mundo da moda [ 39 ] Charles James fotografado em 1952 por Michael Vaccaro. Foto reproduzida na catálogo (p. 52). [ por que ler...? | MARIA LUCIA BUENO ] Estilistas como Christian Dior e Chanel, ícones na cultura de moda do século XX, tiveram seus nomes ligados a marcas prestígio que permanecem ativas. Na história da moda, as referências mais longevas e legitimadas geralmente estão associadas a uma grife ou a um perfume, os principais artífices da construção da memória do trabalho dos profissionais do setor. A importância histórica tornou-se proporcional ao peso econômico e simbólico das marcas, pois são elas que financiam as publicações, as grandes exposições, a manutenção do acervo material, as pesquisas, os filmes, os documentários, uma vez que é na perenidade da influência do costureiro que reside a sua força simbólica. Charles James (Surrey, Reino Unido,1906 – Nova York, Estados Unidos, 1978), um dos mais inventivos costureiros do período da alta-costura, o único que atuou a partir dos Estados Unidos, foi referência incontestável no mundo da moda do anos 1940 e 1950. Mas, em razão do seu fracasso comercial e por não ter seu nome associado a uma marca ou a um perfume, ficou quase esquecido, mantendo-se como uma lem- brança vaga entre pesquisadores e profissionais da área – mesmo assim, a partir de referências muito restritas, como os vestidos de baile fotografados por Cecil Beaton. -
De L'autre Coté Du Periph': Les Lieux De L'identité Dans Le Roman Feminin
Louisiana State University LSU Digital Commons LSU Doctoral Dissertations Graduate School 2012 De l'Autre Coté du Periph': Les Lieux de l'Identité dans le Roman Feminin de Banlieue en France Mame Fatou Niang Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations Part of the French and Francophone Language and Literature Commons Recommended Citation Niang, Mame Fatou, "De l'Autre Coté du Periph': Les Lieux de l'Identité dans le Roman Feminin de Banlieue en France" (2012). LSU Doctoral Dissertations. 1740. https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations/1740 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at LSU Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in LSU Doctoral Dissertations by an authorized graduate school editor of LSU Digital Commons. For more information, please [email protected]. DE L’AUTRE COTÉ DU PERIPH’ : LES LIEUX DE L’IDENTITÉ DANS LE ROMAN FEMININ DE BANLIEUE EN FRANCE A Dissertation Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in The Department of French Studies by Mame Fatou Niang Licence, Université Lyon 2 – 2005 Master 2, Université Lyon 2 –2008 August 2012 A Lissa ii REMERCIEMENTS Cette thèse n’aurait pu voir le jour sans le soutien de mon directeur de thèse Dr. Pius Ngandu Nkashama. Vos conseils et votre sourire en toute occasion ont été un véritable moteur. Merci pour toutes ces fois où je suis arrivée dans votre bureau sans rendez-vous, en vous demandant si vous aviez « 2 secondes » avant de m’engager dans des questions sans fin. -
Calvin Klein
MARKET footwear, swimwear, jewelry, watches, outerwear, its confdently minimal "heroin chic" aesthetic. One of the most iconic names in the fashion handbags, small leather goods, and home Current creative directors Francisco Costa and industry is Calvin Klein. Born in the Bronx, furnishings (including furniture). Italo Zucchelli took over women and men's design New York, the designer became known for a duties in 2003 and 2004, and have continued to minimalistic approach that sparked a sharp shift ACHIEVEMENTS develop Calvin Klein's aesthetic of confdence, towards streamlined clothes for women in the Amongst the many accolades received by Calvin understatement, and perfected minimalist tailoring. 1970s. From his humble beginnings, Calvin Klein Klein over the years are: Still one of the highlights of Fashion Month, Calvin managed to create an award-winning brand with l Coty Award - 1973,1974,1975 Klein Collection is as directional and aspirational multiple sub-divisions -- womenswear, underwear, l Council of Fashion Designers of America Award as ever. perfumes, jeans and cosmetics, among them -- and - 1982,1983,1986 a reputation for provocative advertisements. l CDFA (Council for Fashion Designers of PRODUCTS Calvin Klein, Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of America) award - 1993 The Calvin Klein Collection’s SS16 show was one PVH Corp., is one of the leading fashion design l America's Best Designer of 1993 Award. steeped in nostalgia. Their current obsession with and marketing studios in the world. It designs and the early ’90s is manifested in the red-hot slip markets women’s and men’s designer collection HISTORY dress trend of this season. -
Halston, Netflix's New Series, Imagines How the Designer Created Halston
Halston, Netflix’s new series, imagines how the designer created Halston, his spectacularly successful 1975 fragrance. Grin or groan at the screenwriter’s fiction, the truth is much more interesting. Here is the real Halston story, an excerpt from AMERICAN LEGENDS, Michael Edwards’ new book coming out in Fall 2023. Twenty years in research, it traces the evolution of American perfumery thru forty legendary fragrances. By 1972, Halston’s business was grossing nearly $30 million in retail sales. That year, he won his fourth Coty Award and was acclaimed by Women’s Wear Daily as “one of the greats”. The elegance of the new American style was never more evident than at the couture show mounted in November 1973 to raise funds for the restoration of the Palace of Versailles. Five American designers - Bill Blass, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Anne Klein and Oscar de la Renta - joined five French couturiers in presenting their collections. The French used elaborate backdrops and props. The Americans used a bare stage and ten Black models. Their spare elegance put the French to shame. In late 1973, in a move that stunned the fashion industry, Halston sold his name, his company and his design services to David Mahoney of Norton Simon for sixteen million dollars. Norton Simon Inc. was one of the conglomerates stitched together in the 1960s. It owned such diverse interests as Hunt Food, Somerset Liquor, Avis Car Rental, Hartman Luggage and McCall Patterns. “We had also just bought the Max Factor cosmetic company,” said Dan Moriarty, then assistant to chairman of the board David Mahoney. -
An Ethnographic Study of the Work of Beauty Amongst British Pakistani Women in Sheffield
Becoming Beautifully Modern: An Ethnographic Study of the Work of Beauty Amongst British Pakistani women in Sheffield A thesis submitted to the University of Manchester for the degree of PhD in Social Anthropology in the Faculty of Humanities 2016 Hester Frances Clarke School of Social Sciences Table of Contents Table of Figures 4! Abstract 5! Declaration 6! Copyright Statement 6! Acknowledgements 7! Introduction 8! Pious Consumption and ‘New’ Asian businesses in Sheffield 8! The Pakistani Community in Sheffield 11! Revivalist Islam in Sheffield: Rejecting Race or Performing Whiteness? 16! Beauty, Embodiment, and ‘Enracing’ 21! Beauty as Work: Khadija Hussein, ‘Award-Winning Stylist and Celebrity Make-Up Artist’ 30! Learning to Conduct Myself in the Field: A Worthy Demeanour and the Importance of My Mum 35! Making Networks: Work Experience, Interviews, Collages, and Catwalks 39! Thesis Outline 43! Chapter One: The Community 46! Asian and Pakistani Identity: Considering Relatedness 50! ‘Typical Asians’ and ‘Pakis’ 51! ‘The Community’ 55! Hard Working Sheffield People: ‘Keeping Yourself to Yourself’ 57! New Migrants: Excluding and Including Eastern Europeans 62! Chapter Two: Fair Skinned Beauty 72! Narratives of Fair-Skinned Heritage: Elite Middle Eastern and Kashmiri Ancestors and Fair Skin of The Mountains 77! Beauty and Fair Skin: Global Narratives of Fame, Piety and Class Identity 80! Whitening and Brightening Beauty Treatments 83! Balance, Fit and Ethnicity 84! Dark South Asian Skin and Darkening Through Class 87! 2 The Power of Fair