25 Embellished sheets Lace wrap skirt

Projects PATTERNS INCLUDED!

Fast & Fun Collar necklaces

T H R E A D S

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Envelope clutch and glamorous wristlets BEAUTIFUL HOME BEAUTIFUL CHIC GARMENTS CHIC GORGEOUS BAGS BAGS GORGEOUS

Gift Ideas Gift

FROM THE EDITORS OF

WINTER 2012

✺ ✺

✺

Easy-to-Sew

ACCESSORIES &

DÉCOR Sew

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Contents

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DIY Barrettes, Glove Boxes, p. 68 SewWINTER 2012 p. 50 Fast & Fun Fashion Envelope Clutch, p. 63 Letter 6 18 Quick Pleats Contributors 8 Sew a designer-inspired skirt from pleated fabric panels Cool Tools 10 Pattern Review 12 22 Boxy Tee Patterns 91 Square up your outfi t with a luxe fabric shirt Common Terms 96 Last Page 98 28 Lace Embrace Skirt Make this fast wrap style today and wear it tonight 32 Blanket Coat This easy-to-fi t-and-sew jacket can start with a blanket or yardage Zippy Home Things 36 Sweet Sheets Take bed linens from plain to posh with easy embellishments 38 Reversible Chair Covers Redecorate your dining room for every event 42 Box Seat Expand your seating options and accent your décor with a comfy fl oor cushion 47 Armchair Sewing Kit Organize your tools so they’re ready when you are 50 Boxing Gloves Keep gloves looking fresh with this lovely storage option

Lp HOWARD SLOAN PHOTOS: COVER

Blanket Coat, Travel Bags, p. 32 p. 88

Snappy Accessories Dressy Lace Skirt, 54 The Koos Loop p. 28 A designer’s spin on the infi nity scarf 58 Glam Wristlet Make a fun little bag to carry the essentials 63 Pass the Envelope Shaped gussets add dimension and depth to a classic envelope-style clutch 68 Appliqué Barrettes Four ways to get coiffure couture 70 Bling Around the Collar Three ideas for fabulous necklaces Great Gifts 74 Recycled Sweater Mittens Reinvent winter woolens into festive mittens for the whole family 78 Easy PJs Lounge around in comfy, custom pajama pants 81 His and HHersers SScarvescarves Lightweight fabric and a little trim make a quick and fashionable accessory 84 Pet (-Shaped)haped) Pillow Sew a lifelike throw cushion in your pet’s image 88 Travel Accessories Pack in style with these cute lingerie and shoe bags

Japanese-Style Gift Wrap, p. 98

6 W Handmade gifts from me to you projects inourReader’s at Gallery Closet ThreadsMagazine.com. you’ve made, so besureto show usby uploadingpictures your of fortechniques.tips and helpfulsewing We’d loveto see what the way,questions along andcheckout ThreadsMagazine.com you. usknow ifyou Pleaselet have for any them creating enjoyed a feeling,though, they Iwilllikethat them more will! than the likeness(page 84)in two my of pugs, Mugsy andLulu. Ihave the wholefamily. I’mto make alsodying a “Pet(-Shaped) Pillow” 78) for my son, and “Recycled Sweater Mittens” (page 74) for friends, “Sweet Sheets” (page 36)for my mom, “Easy PJs” (page my husband, a “Glam Wristlet” (page 58)for my eachof girl- 22) for my sister, from ascarf “His andHersScarves” (page 81)for my eye ona “Lace Embrace Skirt” (page 28), a “Boxy Tee” (page these projects for my loved ones—andafew for myself. I’ve got fashionista! an expression whoyou of are—a creativetalented sewing and yourfabricsto suit aesthetic. After all, you want yourto be gift yourto let creativitytake you will. where it Substituteyour own o≠er ideasfor fabrics andembellishments, Iencourage but you accessible, straightforward, andentirely customizable. We to sew for your allof loved ones—bigandsmall. easily draftedthe recipient, the dimensionsof to allowing you come withmultisize patterns (seepatternto 95), pages 91 orare gift-giving list. What’sthe issue manythat alsogreat itemsin is youthat made items canmake for everyone onyour holiday Happy holidays andhappy sewing! We hopeyouthese projects asmuchwe enjoy have making the holidays,As weto count down Iwillbemakingmany of I’mthis year—they’rethe projects thrilled with especially sewstylish

Editor’s Letter easy-to-sew projects and especially beautifulhand- Stu≠to bringyou super-quick,, Sew to wanted we to create this year’s out hen we set Quick issueof ◾ SewStylish.com —Deana Tierney May Editor scissors, rulers, etc. items, suchasasewing machine, needles, those list basic sewing supplies anddonot shown. However, youthat we assume have to create youwhat to buy the projects need supplies listsandsources soyou know exactly P.S. ■ FROM HEAR YOU WE’D LOVE TO Letters (Quick Stuffto Sew) [email protected] or viaemail Newtown, CT 06470-5506 PO Box 5506 Send yourto: letters the issue, Throughout you’ll find handy

PHOTO: JACK DEUTSCH, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL

Executive E Senior W Printed in the USAPrinted in 8171. CanadianGST paidregistration #123210981. Taunton Press, CT06470-5506. Inc., Newtown, Telephone 203-426- Taunton’s SewStylish: (ISSN:1935-8482) ispublishedbyThe Contributing E Administrative Senior C Assistant Production E Central S Assistant Associate E Technical E Special I Senior T Issue A

Sew Executive W echnical E

A eb P Art ditor, Seamstress rt From the Publisher of ThreadsMagazine.com rt taff E Art D Quick Stuff toQuick Assistant eb I D D roducer irectors Interns I irector irector E B Editor ditors ditors ssues ntern ntern ditor ditor ditor ditor ditor opy/ ooks S Emily Stebbins Rebecca Silveira C Misa Giroux Emily Bronson V Mary RayMary Kenneth D. King Susan Khalje L A Gloria Melfi Jeannine Clegg S A Stephani L. Miller S Judith Neukam R D N C John Lepak K ouise Cutting hawna Mullen arah Opdahl arah McFarland osann Berry ourtney Campbellourtney arol Fresia at Riehle at ictoria North ictoria pril Mohr nnie O’Connor eana Tierney May orma Bucko ® [email protected] www.FarthingalesCorsetmakingSupplies.com O u r

Woolens, Silks, Tencel, Velvet, Fine Cottons, Cottons, Fine Velvet, Tencel, Silks, Woolens, Fashion to Decorating, you will find it here! it here! will find you Decorating, to Fashion Linens, Sustainable Organics, plus notions notions plus Organics, Sustainable Linens, s Corset and embellishments to personalize personalize to embellishments and s i your projects, we’ve got it all.... got it we’ve your projects, Costume & www.millendstore.com www.millendstore.com BEAVERTON . 503-646-3000 503-786-1234 . PORTLAND hatwire andmore... Corset bones,busks, i coutil, hoopsteel, s

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N TER 2 012 ® ” ® 7 Contributors

Claudia BuChanan “Box Seat,” page 42 Claudia Buchanan is the owner of Home Fashions U in Peoria, Arizona. Home Fashions Group Publisher M aria Taylor U Learning Center offers online education, [email protected] home décor sewing with hands-on learn- ing, retreats, and private classes designed Advertising Sales Clare Liberis Manager 203-304-3532 for a sewer’s needs. It’s also a great source [email protected] for home décor sewing supplies for draper- ies, Roman shades, slipcovers, and more. The Associate Advertising Tracey Lenahan highlight of Claudia’s day is to share her skills Sales Manager 203-304-3540 [email protected] with others and help them create a beautiful home décor project. “I have been sewing since Advertising Sales Diana Mackey the early age of 10 and love it! My entrepre- Assistant neurial spirit created an exciting career move to the home furnishings industry in 1999. Director, Kristen Lacey I design and sew all facets of home décor, Corporate Marketing specializing in slipcovers, bedding, window Senior Advertising Karen Lutjen treatments, and kids’ décor.” Marketing and Operations Manager linda Teufel Assistant Advertising Kandace Doyle Marketing Manager “Recycled Sweater Mittens,” page 74, and “The Koos Loop,” page 54 Member Audit Linda Teufel is the founder of Dragon Bureau of Circulation Threads, a publishing company renowned for gorgeous, award-winning art-quilt Digital Marketing Sara Ezrin Larsen books. She is the author of numerous maga- Director zine articles and several books. Linda spent GRaPhy Senior Consumer Melissa Robinson years working in New York City’s garment Marketing Manager industry, with experience spanning the custom, high-fashion design and production Director, eCommerce Michael Stoltz

of designer Koos van den Akker to com- Photo Goes By

mercially, mass-produced apparel by Cathy tiMe Hardwick. Linda holds a Bachelor of Fine c) as c) as

Arts degree in Fashion Design from Pratt Vi Institute and has a home economics teach- ing certificate from Ohio State University. Independent publishers since 1975

She has traveled around the world recruiting Founders, Paul & Jan Roman (Vido loski;

authors for Dragon Threads and has taught President Timothy Rahr y ko courses on sewing, quilting, and a variety of needlework subjects. CFO Richard Browning Group Publisher Anatole Burkin ufel) kiMBeRl

ann VidoViC te

Group Publisher Maria Taylor (

“Quick Pleats,” page 18 M; SVP, Creative & Editorial Susan Edelman Ann Vidovic was recently asked by a student, “How big is your closet?” Ann is a clothing SVP, Operations Thomas Luxeder construction teacher at College of DuPage SVP, Taunton Interactive Jason Revzon in Chicago, and the student was referring VP, Single Copy Sales Jay Annis to the expansive garment collection Ann creates and wears while experimenting V P, Consumer Marketing Nancy Hallberg with new techniques and fabrics. Most days, VP & Controller Wayne Reynolds Ann is sewing, monitoring trends, or writing about fashion. She shares innovative sewing VP, Finance Kathy Worth techniques and a gallery of her work on her VP, Human Resources Carol Marotti website, DidYouReallySewThat.com. Her award-winning, zero-waste blue chiffon eve- VP, Fulfillment Patricia Williamson ning gown appeared on the May 2012 Threads Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online cover. Ann is the 2012 fashion show chairper- Fine Woodworking • Fine Homebuilding son for the Association of Sewing and Design Threads • Fine Gardening • Fine Cooking www.taunton.com

Professionals (ASDP). PaulMichael.co Michael Reklaitis, (Buchanan) Paul Photos:

8 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Got Inspiration? We do!

103502

Available at craft, fabric, and book stores www.stashbooks.com n 800.284.1114

cloth * pattern * tool The PINk Moebius CHaLK Scarf fabrics

PinkChalkFabrics.com for modern sewists

Unravel the mystery of the never-ending scarf. www.IslanderSewing.com The perfect place to begin!

winter 2012 9 Cool Tools New Notions Projects and technology to get you sewing

COLOR-MATCHING APP MAKE PROJECTS WITH DIMENSION Sewing has entered the smart age. The 5D Thread Match is an Sew chic, quick-and-easy fashion and home décor projects with Make it iPhone app that matches a thread color to your fabric. Simply take Sew Modern: Gather, Twist, Pleat, Texture by Vanessa Christenson (Mar- a photograph of your material and the app searches its database tingale and Company 2012). In this book, you’ll learn how to add texture of 15,000 threads from a variety of brands. The 5D Thread Match and dimension to 21 simple items, from skirts and fashion accessories to determines the most prominent color in your image and displays quilts and pillows. Organized by fabric manipulation technique, the book a matching thread color swatch next to it. Save your fabric photos presents projects in four chapters: Gather, Twist, Pleat, and Texture. These for future reference. For the best results, be sure to take the photo projects are sure to be a hit as gifts or simply make them for yourself and in bright, fl at light. your home. ($2.99) ($24.99) iTunes.com ShopMartingale.com

RETRO-INSPIRED APPLIQUÉ AND EMBROIDERY PROJECTS EASY ONE-PROJECT PATTERNS All Sewn Up: 35 Exquisite projects using appliqué, embroidery and more by Sew Simple is Simplicity Pat- Chloë Owens (Cico Books, 2012) is a colorful book with a delightfully whim- tern Company’s latest addition. sical feel. The author teaches 35 retro-inspired projects, many of which fea- Each pattern envelope contains ture artistic, and somewhat quirky, appliqué and embroidery designs. The one easy-to-sew project and costs chapters are divided into project types: Cooking up a storm (accessories for merely $1.99. Choose from the 70 available patterns for tops, skirts, the kitchen), Cuddly companions (dolls and stu≠ ed animals), Gifts (projects pants, accessories, children’s wear, home décor, and more. These range from a baby bib to a laptop cover), Rest your weary head (pillows), patterns are ideal for beginners or those wanting an uncomplicated, and Decorations (accessories for the home). complete-in-one-night project. ($19.95) ($1.99) CicoBooks.com Simplicity.com PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD; 5D 5D HOWARD; SLOAN PHOTOS: OF KSIN TRADEMARK IS A SARL II, LUXEMBOURG

10 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Press, Inc. reproduction permissionof without The Taunton Copyright 2012 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No subscription price. Noquestionsasked. receive afullandimmediate refundthe entire of Threads, you cancancelyour subscriptionand time you’re anyIf at completely satisfi not ed with The Taunton guarantee: Visit careers.taunton.com For information: employment or call: ETMon-Fri 9am-5pm 800-477-8727 www.threadsmagazine.com/privacy include yourwe not name, pleasevisit: to reputable firms. Ifyou wouldprefer that We available ourmailinglist of make aportion Mailing list: [email protected] email usat or Call 800-309-0383, To advertiseinThreads: [email protected] email usat Calltoll-free or us 866-452-5179, at To sellThreads inyour store: ETMon-FriCall 9am-5pm 800-477-8727 To professional:to acustomer service speakdirectly [email protected] Email usat To Threads contact customer service: Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/FAQs To find answersto frequently asked questions: Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/customerservice To helpwithonlinememberservices: get Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/products To fi Threads products: about nd out ETSat9am-5pm ETMon-Fri9am-9pm or call: 800-888-8286 Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/tmorder To subscribeorplace anorder: Email:[email protected] Fax: 203-426-3434 Call: 800-309-9262 Writethe addressto Threads at above or To proposal: anarticle submit www.threadsmagazine.com Visit: [email protected] Send anemail: Tel: 203-426-8171 Newtown, CT06470-5506 PO Box 5506 63 SouthMainStreet The Taunton Press Threads To us: contact

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425-836-0645 FAT QUARTERS FAT

WINTER WINTER

on any fabric fabric any on

we carry we We ship ship We 2012 • 11 Pattern Review Quick Patterns A selection of fast and easy patterns

ewing patterns are not like the movies. You never want a surprise ending. SThis selection of patterns will help you to make informed choices before you sew gifts or make items for yourself. Since dresses are having a big fashion moment, we focused on a few tied to key trends, such as color blocking, cowl necklines, or a fi t-and-fl are silhouette. Our sta≠ seamstress sewed a ver- sion of each to test the instructions and the results. We selected pat- terns with a minimal number of pieces, easy or no closures, and attractive and chic results.

PATTERNS ARE picked by Sarah McFarland, a Threads associate editor, and tested by Norma Bucko, Threads staff seamstress.

For an easy-to-sew accessory, try Indygo

Junction’s Gypsy Hobo. The versatile design works in quilting cottons or home décor fabrics.

12 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Roomy bags Indygo Junction Gypsy Hobo IJ911 (IndygoJunction.com) Many handbag projects require closures, tricky seams in tight spots, and the dreaded “turning”—pulling the whole project through a small opening to orient the lining and exterior wrong sides together. You don’t have to go through that with the Gypsy Hobo, but you still end up with a fashionable big bag. The edges are bound with ribbon so the lining and exterior are fi nished with the wrong sides together. The fabric or canvas straps are worked through channels at the bag’s top edges. Make it in a pretty medley of fat quarters, or indulge in interesting home décor textiles. There is one pattern piece (the interior pockets and optional fabric straps are rectangles described in the instructions). You cut quadrants STYLE TIP: Make the exterior with a single for the lining and for the exterior. fabric piece to keep a print intact. Sew the lining, then use it as a pattern for the fashion fabric.

Sweater dresses Stylish sheath Hot Patterns Classix Nouveau Uptown/ Vogue 1250 Downtown Knit Dress 1090 (VoguePatterns.McCall.com) (HotPatterns.com) In the right fabric, you could have a “mini- Sew this sharp what-to-wear solution in just a malist chic” dress in no time. This sleek short while. It has raglan sleeves and an elasti- design by Donna Karan has a draped cized waist seam. A coordinating knit or self-fabric neckline and a slim fit through forms wide ribbing at the neckline, cuffs, and the hips. The pattern has only hem. The design lends itself to knit fabric in a three pieces, and one is a simple wide range of weights and textures, from slinky neck-binding strip. This design is knit to heavy sweatshirt fleece. Or, make it in two for two-way stretch knits only, and complementary knits, for a top- Lycra blends with cotton, rayon, and-skirt look. or nylon are recommended. The design is easy to sew, Vogue has designated it but our tester found the as a pattern for all figure instructions di≤ cult to types. However, the very follow. Read them through simplicity of the design makes carefully before sewing. alterations difficult. If your figure Spend the time you save is more than two sizes different picking out accessories above and below the waist, con- to wear with this sider a design with more options versatile design. for alteration. PHOTOS: (P. 12) SLOAN HOWARDL; ALL OTHERS, COURTESY OF THE PATTERN COMPANIES THE PATTERN OF COURTESY ALL OTHERS, HOWARDL; 12) SLOAN (P. PHOTOS:

WINTER 2012 13

Pattern Review

Chic shift Travel frocks Vogue 8763 Christine Jonson (VoguePatterns.McCall.com) A-line Dress 930 Made with only three pattern pieces, this dress has (CJPatterns.com) sides that wrap from a center-back seam to the edges This jewel-necked, pull- no. 930 of a center-front panel; there are no side seams. The over dress is a classic. It A Line Dress Multi-Sized front panel presents an opportunity for figure-flattering is available as a down- color blocking. loadable e-pattern at CJ The pullover design has neck and armhole edges fi n- Patterns.com, with length ished with bias tape and a narrow and sleeve options. machine-sewn hem. Recom- A sleeveless version can be made with just two pat- mended fabrics are lightweight tern pieces. Pack it for a one-piece travel outfi t, or toss jersey, charmeuse, silk crepe, or on a cardigan and wear it to work. The neckline, arm- lightweight double-knit. holes, and hem are just turned under and topstitched. The style is loose-fi tting, but The suggested fabrics have 100 percent stretch in check the hip measurements both directions: knit fabrics with drape, such as wool, carefully on the pattern rayon, or cotton jerseys with Lycra. envelope. The design makes circumference alterations tricky because adjust- STYLE TIP: The pattern designer says this look can work in woven fabrics, too. Just choose a woven with ments must focus on the drape, and add a zipper or keyhole neckline opening at center-back seam. the center back.

Drink wraps Indygo Junction Koozie Kouture IJ898 (IndygoJunction.com) This pattern covers just about any variation of a drink cover, or “koozie,” you could imagine. These fun little projects make great gifts, party favors, or a way to end family confusion over beverages, because each can be personalized. They are also wonderful projects for anyone who loves to save-fabric, money, and/or time because they use a minimal amount of fabric and are easy to finish. The pattern features versions to hold water bottles, glass bottles, soda cans, co≠ ee cups, or wineglasses. The fabrics are up to you, but the pretty patterns and appealing texture of quilting cottons are perfect matches for these designs. The insulating feature comes from a layer of polyester foam or insulated batting, which is commonly available at craft and fabric stores. Keep your hot drinks hot, cold drinks cold, and your sewing machine humming!

14 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Cardigan variations Kwik Sew 3916 (KwikSew.McCall.com) The cozy shawl collar on this vest and cardigan pattern will keep you warm. The design doesn’t have any closures, and it hangs straight to lend your figure a nice vertical line. The vest version features extended shoulders that look like cap sleeves, and a wide front band, which folds back to form a collar. It also has patch pockets and armholes bound with

self-fabric. The pocket tops are interfaced. The long-sleeve version has side-seam pock- ets and sleeves that fold into cuffs. We think this easy design is a polished alternative to a sweatshirt or fl eece jacket. The suggested fabrics are sweatshirt fl eece, French terry, textured knits, double- knit, jersey, or fi rm interlock knits. Mix and match the pocket styles between the cardi- gan and vest versions, or leave the pockets o≠ entirely.

STYLE TIP: Make the shawl collar in a contrasting knit to accentuate its length and to make you look taller.

Fit-and-fl are dress Burda 7517 (Simplicity.com) Improve your posture and trim your waist (at least visually) with this fit-and-flare design with a bateau neckline. The key to its figure flattery is inverted tucks at the waist. They give the dress shape without additional pattern pieces or seams. Make it in crepe fabrics, lightweight linens, or cottons. 1 The design has an invisible side zipper, a 1 ⁄2-inch-deep hem, and a faced neckline. There are only four pattern pieces (front, back, and neck facings), if you don’t cut bias binding for the armholes. Grab a packet of single- fold binding instead; because the binding is turned to the garment’s interior, it doesn’t show. If you decide to make the version with a ribbon belt, the ribbons are sewn into the front waist tucks.

STYLE TIP: Cut the dress on the cross- grain to take advantage of a border print or embroidered selvage.

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Fast & Fun Fashion

Blanket Coat 32 Lace Embrace Skirt 28 Boxy Tee 22 Quick Pleats 18

T p. 2 2 . p , e Te y x o B

Pleats, 18 8 1 1 . . p p , , s s t t a a e e l l P P k k c c i i u u Q Q WINTER 2012 WINTER 17

Fast & Fun Fashion Quick Pleats Sew a designer-inspired skirt from pleated fabric panels

leated skirts are highly wearable and versatile, and they’re on-trend right now. If you love the look but don’t want to spend ages meticulously Pfolding and pressing pleats yourself, purchase fabric yardage or panels that come prepleated. Most pleated fabrics are woven or knitted from synthetic fi bers and permanently pressed into shape during manufacture. They can be found in some national chain fabric stores and online fabric shops. Choices available include knife-pleated, accordion- pleated, crystal-pleated, or Fortuny-style pleated fabrics, and sunburst-pleated panels that are sold in sets of two. Finished skirts should be dry- cleaned to preserve the pleating. For the designer-inspired look shown in this article, we used sunburst-pleated polyester panels with a grosgrain ribbon for the waistband. You can make the skirt with an elegant asymmetrical or high-low hem that’s longer in back (shown), or you can make the skirt hem an equal length all the way around. With a pleated fabric, there’s no pattern necessary to get a runway-worthy look. It’s easy to whip up a skirt ANN VIDOVIC is an educator and couture dressmaker in Chicago. from sunburst-pleated fabric DidYouReallySewThat.com. panels, available from Vogue FabricsStore.com.

18 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Supplies • Set of sunburst-pleated Measure and cut fabric panels (Vogue FabricsStore.com) or 2 yards You can cut a pair of sunburst-pleated fabric panels to fit your measurements other pleated fabric 1 • 2⁄4 yards 1-inch-wide and to any length you wish. The panels are narrow at the top and wide at the grosgrain ribbon bottom, and the pleats are also narrower at top and wider at the bottom. Sew • 5 sets sew-on snaps, the skirt’s waistline somewhere near the narrow end of the panels. Decide on size 4/0 the pleat width that is most flattering to your figure, mark its position along • 2 strips 8-inch-long by 1 ⁄2-inch-wide fusible the pleated panels’ length, and place the skirt’s waistline at that point. interfacing 1 This skirt has no center-back or center-front seams. Instead, the skirt front • ⁄2-inch-wide clear adhesive and back are cut from two pleated panels and are sewn together at the side or painter’s tape seams. A grosgrain ribbon fi nishes the waistline, and a side-seam snap placket, • Hook-and-bar closure plus a hook and bar, form the closure. • Water or air-soluble fabric marking pen • Fray Check or Fray Block

Skirt panel Center waist narrow end marking Pleat peak

Pleat valley For the skirt shown on these pages, sunburst-pleated fabric panels were used. Other types of prepleated fabric RS are also available, including mush- room pleating (top and bottom) and crystal pleating (middle).

PREPARE THE PLEATED FABRIC. MARK THE WAIST CENTER. Pleated CALCULATE THE SKIRT 1 Lay the fabric panel right side up on a work 2 fabric has “peaks” that rise and “valleys” that 3 WAIST. Measure your natural waist surface. Lightly tape the narrow end’s edges to descend. Identify the center point of the fabric (the narrowest part of your torso); add 3 the surface, opening the pleats and fl attening panel’s narrow end, and mark the nearest peak with inches to this measurement for ease. Divide 5 the fabric. a water- or air-soluble fabric pen. This is the center by 4, then add ⁄8 inch for seam allowance: 5 waist marking. [(Waist measurement + 3 inches) ÷ 4] + ⁄8 inch. The result is the width to measure each half of the skirt front and back.

MARK THE WAIST. On both pleated panels, measure to left Center waist 4 and right of the center waist markings the amount calculated in marking step 3; mark the closest pleat peak or valley. Make marks down the length of the same peak or valley on both sides of each panel’s center marking for the side seam cutting lines.

Side seam marking

CONTINUED >>>

WINTER 2012 19

20 5 Sew the skirt body the skirt Sew 1 cutting lines 1 inch longer than the center-frontthan cutting lines1inchlonger length. front,the skirt as the sameamount plus5inches. the sideseam the hemlengthat Mark back,one-length hem.the skirt On measure downfromthe center backwaistline marking back, andallfour sideseamcuttinglines. allpoints.the hemlengthat Mark front, back.the skirt one panelas the skirt andoneas requiresturning, no pressing, orstitching. seam. Pleated fabricto re-press canbedifficult inadirection contrarythe existingto pleats, the hemming methodhere so iseasy;the skirt Sewing the waistband isagrosgrain ribbon, closeswithasimplefive-snap placket ononeside the skirt and Assemble and finish seamless appearance. the sidesandcreates hangs smoothlyat anearly foldsMatchingthe pleat the skirt ensures that the markedthe seamalong peakorvalley.Sew two peakstwo valleyseither or the seamline. on sideseam,right matchingthe markings. Match pleat valley.pleat the peak or the pleat either Stitch along Mark the skirt center front asdescribedfor the the skirt For the back:Mark islongerthat in ahem centerFor front, aone-lengthhem:Measurethe desiredthe skirt lengthdown center sewstylish skirt panels,skirt together, sides right the along SEW SEAM. SIDE RIGHT THE where youthe skirt’s want to fall. hem Two hem-length optionsare given. Choose DETERMINE SKIRTDETERMINE LENGTH.THE

Narrow panelend down the pleateddown panel. Measure the desired length WS ◾ SewStylish.com Pleat valleyPleat Pin the Pin Measure from your naturalto waist 2 allowance. the seam the seamlinewithin peaknearest pleat wrong side. Aligneachinterfacingthe stripwith eachlefttop of sideseamallowancethe the on Fuse one8-inchby REINFORCE SNAPPLACKET.THE REINFORCE Fusible interfacing Length marking 1 ⁄ 2 panel end -inch interfacingto strip Wide 6 skirt panels. skirt reversethe hemlinecurve, scoops downward. soit both Cut the center-frontto markings hemmarking. Forthe backhem, an asymmetrical hem: Drawthe sideseam anarch joining center-front andcenter-backthe sideseams.to markings For evenly hem. cut For aone-length hem: Drawthe alinejoining DRAW HEMLINES. THE allowance. This providesto helpensure enoughwidth an

hem marking Center-back 3 seamline. The placket extendsthe waist 7inchesbelow interfaced seamallowancesto securethem. nearest bothstitchinglines, catchingthe Then, sidesup, right valleysthe pleat stitchin interfacedthe wrong seamallowancesto side. TOPSTITCH PLACKET.THE front andbackplacket sections, foldthe Back skirt panel Back skirt Add a 2-inch hem Adda2-inch Snap placket topstitching Side seammarking panel end Narrow On the On

PHOTOS: (P. 18) JACK DEUTSCH, STYLIST: AMIT GAJWANI, HAIR AND MAKEUP: PATRYCJA FOR HALLEY RESOURCES; ALL OTHERS, SLOAN HOWARD. STYLING CREDITS: EARRINGS—(AVANTGARDEPARIS.COM), JACKET—GRACIA (SHOPGRACIA.COM), TOP—FELINA (LORDANDTAYLOR.COM), SHOES—(BODENUSA.COM), RING—STYLIST’S OWN

4 right side. right underside,the backplacket’sto the bar and the front placket’sto the hook hand-sew 1 right sideseamandpin.right ribbon’s center foldthe skirt’s markingwith waistline edge, side.the right on Matchthe Finishthe waist andhem ribbon’s bottomedge the center fold. length oneachsideof the Align 2,then add the fold. at Divideyour waistmeasurement by Snap socket PREPARE RIBBON. THE grosgrain ribboninhalf,the center andmark CLOSURE. SEW HOOK-AND-BARTHE sections SKIRT FRONT Snap ball sections Center fold/ side seam marking (RS) 1 ⁄ 2 inch to 1inchfor inch ease.this Mark

Hook SKIRT FRONT At the placket’s At top edges, (RS) alignment alignment marking 5 Placket ⁄ 8 inch below the skirt’s inchbelow SKIRT BACK (RS) Foldthe Bar 5 edge of arulerforedge of aclean, smoothcut. neatly aspossible.the Usearotary cutteragainst necessary. Then, away cut the hemallowance as 2 4 sew the snapsinplace. sew Hand- the snaps1inchapart. space the skirt’sinch below waistedge and side.right Positiontop snap1 the the backplacket’sto socket sections front placket’s wrongthe sideand the to the snapballsections so place markings with the snapplacket edges. markings with place.the remaining Align ribbon side,the folded securing pleats in waistline’sthe skirt to ribbon right corresponding sideseams.the Pin the and center backmarkingsand halfwaythe center between front Skirt front Skirt hemline TRIM HEMLINE. THE the hemlength, andmake any corrections Foldtwo ormoretogether pleats FIT SKIRT THE WAIST. AFFIX SNAPS.THE placket’s front overlapsthe back, SKIRT (RS) together waistline at Four pleats folded The Double-check Double-check

5 3 all layers. Then,the ribbon’s sew together.top edges side,the right the ribbon’s stitch along through bottomedges seam allowancethe ribbonlayers. issandwichedbetween On underlap.the wrongthe ribboninplaceon Pin side; the waist ribbon 1inchbeyondthe backplacket, then foldto create an along the peakorvalley.along seam, makingsure foldsthe pleat are aligned. Stitch COMPLETE SEAM. LEFTSIDE THE and sew the remainingthe left side and sew lengthof around the plackets to the skirt’saroundthe placketsto wrong side. Extendthe BIND THE BIND WAISTLINE. Stitching 6 don’t cut the tip—pierce it with apin. tip—pierce it the don’t cut To controlthe anti-fray product’s application, Skirt back Skirt Seal the hemline.Seal hemline Fray BlockorFraythe hemedge. Checkalong SEAL HEM. THE Waistline (WS) Wrapthe ribbonends Right sideseam Right Apply a very thin line of thin lineof Applyavery WINTER WINTER 1-inch ribbon 1-inch Pin Skirt front Skirt underlap hemline SKIRT BACK (WS) Placket 2012 21

Fast & Fun Fashion

Silk dupioni gives this boxy T-shirt a luxurious look. Boxy

Square up your outfit with a luxe fabric shirt Tee

old, boxy T-shirts in opulent woven fabrics are all over the runways this season, and they couldn’t be simpler to make. It takes just a few steps to draft the pattern and, since the con- struction is simple, you can whip up several in an assortment of fabrics. Some fabric sugges- Btions include silk shantung, boiled wool, faux leather or Ultrasuede, or even materials encrusted with beads or sequins. Think luxe fabrics with body to accentuate the boxy shape. Woven fabrics generally have little or no stretch, so plenty of ease is added—for slipping the tee on and o≠ and for ease of motion while wearing it. The neckline also has a gentle scoop, so it’s big enough to go over the head. Here, I’ll teach you what measurements to take, how to draft the pattern, and how to sew your own ultrafashionable boxy tee.

CAL PATCH teaches sewing and design, and sells her one-of-a-kind creations. Visit her website at HodgePodgeFarm.net.

22 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Take your measurements and add ease It’s best to measure yourself in front of a mirror so you can see the tape measure while standing straight. Supplies • 2 yards woven fabric • Clear-grid ruler (18-inch 1 length. Hold the tape measure at your shoulder’s highest point and let it drop straight down. Decide by 2-inch with ⁄8-inch where you want the shirt hemline to sit on your body. On the runways, these shirts tended toward cropped markings) lengths, but you may find a longer length more flattering. You’re the designer! • French curve or other curved ruler • Matching thread n eckline width • Pattern paper and drop. For the BuSt. Measure your bust and neckline width, look in add 5 to 8 inches of ease. Add the mirror and hold the closer to 5 if you don’t want the tape measure parallel shirt too loose, and add closer to to your shoulders in 8 if you want extra design ease. front of your neck and determine how wide Sleeve/Shoulder length. The sleeves you’d like the neckline to are cut in one piece with the body. Determine be. Next, without angling where you’d like the sleeves to end, and measure the tape, measure from there to your center front at the neck. straight down from your shoulder’s highest point to where you want the front neckline drop to Sleeve width. To determine the sleeve end. Note that you are width, measure around your biceps’ fullest point. not measuring a curve Add at least 3 inches of ease. here—that is done when drafting the pattern. hem width. Measure around your body where you want the hem to be. Add the same ease as for the bust.

Measurements for the pattern Since each pattern piece represents one quarter of Length ______the body, you need to divide some of the measure- Bust ______+ 5 to 8 inches ease ÷ 4=______ments by 4 or 2 to draft the pattern. Divide the bust, Hem ______+ 5 to 8 inches ease ÷ 4=______waist, and hip/hem circumferences by 4. Divide the Neck width ______÷ 2=______neck width and sleeve opening by 2. These are the Neck depth ______final numbers that you’ll use for each measurement Sleeve/shoulder length______as you make the pattern. Sleeve width_____ + 3 inches ÷ 2=______

winter 2012 23

24 5 3 1 the numbers calculated on the previous page and not the actual bodymeasurements.the actual the numberscalculatedthe previous on page andnot top’sThis relaxedto draft shapeiseasy afew withjust steps. withalarge pattern piece of paper. Start Besureto use Draft the pattern sewstylish cf cf cf bust measurement bust

place on fold. shoulder/sleeve length hip/hemline allowances. add seam ◾ SewStylish.com 6 2 4 neck drop cf/cb cf cf place on fold. underarm seamline back necklline front neckline sleeve width neck width 6 6 5 2 2 3 4 4 1 cF line. cF the neckline.a seamallowanceto write “Place onfold”the on the hemandsleevehem allowancesto openings. add donot cF;the underarmthis is seamline. width amount. next, drawtoward aperpendicularlineback gentle curve. intowherethe underarm a the sideseammeet seamand using aFrench curve orothercurved ruler,the corner blend the hip/hempoint.seamline.to down this point connect Back. write “Place onfold” line. the cB on the backpattern. out the backpieceandindicate label center 2 inchesfromthe shoulderline, andredrawthe neckline. cut fromthe front. the backpattern, on to about raisethe neck back pattern. the onlyarea isdifferentthat the necklineis the hemamount. shoulder/sleeve length. cF the bottomof make the lineat the the line. cF top andbottomof top of the make the lineat and below. next,to cF, drawtwo linesperpendicular the at the cF,along leaving afew pattern inchesof paperabove cF edge andlabelit starts and finishes at a 90-degree angle. a90-degree andfinishes at starts two pointsthe withasmooth curve.Join Besurethe curve dropthe cF, along measuringdownfromthe shoulder line. Ml he and Mark center front,the shoulder, ad shoulder and side sea side and shoulder sleeve line,the sleeve draw equals that alineparallelto cF dr cr cF,the underarm measurement along the bust mark Make Make backthe pattern. pattern paperfortrace of ontothe and anothersheet it dr neck width along the shoulder/sleeveneck widthalong line.the neck mark eate sea side the aft sleeve.the d aw neckline. the 5 ⁄ 8 -inch sea -inch ine. . measurethe shirt’s andmark length straightenthe pattern paper’s left M M Fromthe shoulder/ the endof allowances to the Ms. starting from cF, starting the mark starting fromthe starting Ms. cut out the front out cut then add1inch

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal. illustrations: Kat riehle. styling credits: toP (underneath)—(thelimited.com) necKlace—(anthroPologie.com), Pants—(anntaylor.com)

Color-block it create new variations on this versatile look. seam allowances. paper to each side of the new seam(s), and add piece apart on the line(s) you drew. Tape scrap your body. on that, to get a better sense of how they fall on make a test garment and draw the lines directly lines can be straight or curved). It is helpful to just as you want them to look when finished (the On the pattern front, draw the new seamlines graphic impact. Here’s how: andcanmakeseams iseasy abold boxytee. Addinginterior decorative To addvisualinterest, color-block your 3 3 together to formtogether aloop. Fold andpress under together,sides the biasstrip’s seam ends short inch on one long edge of the loop. inch ononelongedge of Now you can mix colors, textures, and fibers to Once you’ve settled on a design, cut the pattern strip into aloop,then press onelongedge. Createthe necklinebinding. sew abias fi C self-fabriC nish Ck nish ne the

bias bias tape. line withline a with righ 1 ⁄ 2 t

4 4 1 folded edge. seam.first side,From theright thebinding’s topstitchalong side,right the folded covering andpinwith edge just the allowance. distributing the bias tape evenly,the bias distributing andsewwitha circumference thenecklineedge later.to finish plus1inch the neckline pieces.to biasstripequal a2-inch-wide cut the fabric’s folded edge. this creates two fullgarment them usinganassemblylineapproach. once, allat them out then sew and If you’retops, makingmultiple cut top.the a few to construct stepsleft the patternOnce ismade,there are only Sew Sew the shirt Cut ba front shirt and the Place the patternPlace center front andcenter backalong sew binding. the bias tape’sbias the neckline’s unfoldedto edge wrong side, the seams. sew andfinish wr binding the garment.binding attachthe neckline make fortake aunique the boxy on tee. plum lamé(bothfrom moodfabrics.com) a plum-colored boiledwool andgold and ap the bias tape over the neckline edge to the tape overto the bias the necklineedge ap Pin the right side of the sideof the right Pin Ck. 1

⁄ 2 2 2 -inch seam same way. the the shoulderseamsin to befinished).need sew and,therefore, doesnot generally ravel doesnot serging (note: boiledwool with azigzag stitchor stitch, them andfinish seams usingastraight together,the side sew with sides right se w seams.the 5 5 bottom hem. blind hem. double-fold,topstitched hemora openings andopenings e h sew the hems. sew m sleevethe winter winter usea 1 ⁄ 2 -inch, 2012 finished hem (rs ) 25

Unleash Your Creativity Couture Styles Designer Secrets Fitting Techniques Master classic techniques Learn fi nishing touches that Create garments that fi t adapted for today’s styles. make all the di≠ erence. perfectly and always fl atter.

Working with Fabric Embellishment Fundamentals Choose the right fabric and Update your wardrobe Conquer the basics and handle it correctly. with custom details. improve your skills.

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get your FREE gift! classic couture deconstructed Fast & Fun Fashion Lace Embrace Skirt Make this fast wrap style today and wear it tonight

ace is easy to sew and in the height of fashion. This wrap skirt project has no side seams, simplifying and speeding upL construction. The design also features the lovely scalloped edge found on many lace yardages. The selvage is at the hem and appliquéd along the wrap’s edges. With curved front edges on the underlay and overlay, you don’t need to sew any corners in this wrap skirt. It's also fully lined (try a contrast lining to play up the lace’s motif), and a ribbon waistband/ tie completes the look. To make the skirt pattern, you'll drape muslin on your body or a dress form. The recommend- ed fabric amounts are for skirts that fi t up to 42-inch hips. For larger sizes, add 3 inches to the fabric length for each additional inch of hip circumference.

SARAH MCFARLAND is an associate editor at Threads.

Drape and sew your own lace wrap skirt. This version is in fl oral-printed lace from MoodFabrics.com.

28 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Supplies • 2 yards 36-inch-wide muslin Make the skirt pattern • 2 yards, or more, 36-inch-wide lace, scalloped Drape the muslin to make a skirt pattern. This goes faster with a friend's on both selvages help, so see if you can enlist someone to help you wrap and measure. Wear • 2 yards lining (Use silky fabric for a drapey skirt or cotton for a structured look.) leggings you can pin into for the draping process. If you have a dress form • 2 packages narrow, double-fold binding that reflects your shape accurately, follow these steps to drape the skirt on • 3 yards 1-inch-wide satin ribbon it instead of your body.

FRONT FRONT Muslin edge

OVERLAY Darts Start here. Pin Pin at (RS) at right side left side BACK (RS) seam location. location. Wrap and pin here again. OVERLAY (WS) UNDERLAY (RS) Hemline Hemline

Muslin edge Muslin edge

WRAP THE MUSLIN AROUND YOUR HIPS. With the selvage at waist PINCH OUT THE SKIRT DARTS. With a friend's 1 level and parallel to the fl oor, place the muslin's vertical edge along the line where 2 help, fold out the excess waist fabric into four darts from a right side seam would sit on your body. Pin the muslin in place carefully at the level waist to hip: one at each side, and two symmetrical darts of your widest hip circumference. Wrap the muslin loosely across your abdomen. Keep about halfway between the sides and center back. Pin through the selvages parallel to the fl oor. Pin the muslin at the side seam location on your left the folds, close to the body. Adjust the folds until the waistline hip. Wrap the muslin around your back and pin again on your right hip (just above the fi ts and the skirt falls to your hips without puckering. Trace the fi rst pin). crease on both sides of each fold.

Darts

REMOVE THE MUSLIN, AND COMPLETE THE 3 SKIRT PATTERN. Trim the muslin at the hemline mark, parallel to the selvage and the waistline. Shape the overlay and the underlay corners into matching curves with a OVERLAY UNDERLAY BACK fashion ruler. If you don't have a fashion ruler, try tracing the (WS) (WS) (WS) edge of a large round platter or pizza pan.

Cut the underlay and overlay in matching Hemline curves.

WINTER 2012 29

30 Sew the lining Sew the layers Cut construction phaseisswift. hem allowance. The pattern alsodoesn’t includesideseams,the so requirethe lining, doesnot to edge a usebinding soit instructions the liningandlace, First cut the pattern.the muslinas using These Construct the skirt 1 toward center back. binding fold. the opened Stitch in binding (WS) double-fold darts in the lace. in darts tracethreadto Use the sewstylish FOLD THE LINING DARTSFOLD LINING THE SIDES RIGHT TOGETHER. Sew the darts,Sew the points. stitchingfromthe waistlineto Pressthe darts Opened LINING LINING (RS)

◾ SewStylish.com Thread-traced lining and Aligned binding edges dart 2 EDGES. top,the fold. stitchin lining’s. Withthe binding on the binding’sthe rawto edge the waistline, at starting align together and sides right this fold.binding along With slightly narrower;the open is that binding hasoneside HEM AND CURVED AND HEM LINING’STHE BIND 1 DARTS. TRACE LACETHE selvage lace withascalloped the the muslinon align the fion nished skirt, so the lining slightly below soluble fabric marker. withaair- onit the darts the muslin'sedge. Mark edge.the liningalong Cut beyondthe muslin’s hem AND AND THREAD- CUT LACE,THE The double-fold 1 ⁄ 2 inch to 1inch inch The lacehangs

curved edges. the underlaytrim andoverlay's lace selvage out to Cut lengths side. the wrongon the bindingfold ditch, catching the Stitch in LINING LINING (RS) selvage Lace stitch, and tear away the stabilizer later. length between the lace and the feed dogs, It comes in 3-inch-wide rolls. Just place a try Stitch & Ditch Stabilizer by ThreadPro. soft and pulls down into the needle plate, stabilizer. If the lace is very open and/or Test-sew your lace to see if it requires a TEST YOUR LACE Stitching (WS) 3 fold beneath. binding,to catchthe binding the ditch,in the within orjust side. side,the right On stitch the lining’sto the edge wrong 2 stitching it inplace.stitching it matchingthe motifs and the edgingafteryoutrim can generous lengthandwidth— the laceyardage.on a Cut fromthe oppositeselvage cut appliquéd scallopedselvage trimmed with edge is The laceoverlay’s curved BINDING. REFOLD THE OVERLAY EDGING. CUT LACETHE LINING LINING (WS) Wrap over it

PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL. ILLUSTRATIONS: EMILY BRONSON. STYLING CREDITS: (P. 28) TOP—(MADEWELL.COM); (P. 31) TOP—(MADEWELL.COM), SWEATER—(TARGET.COM), NECKLACE AND GLASSES—(ANTHROPOLOGIE.COM), SHOES—STEVE MADDEN (MACYS.COM)

1 out. Pressthe waistline along seam(B). allowance (A). sides the laceandliningright Flip Pin,together witha then stitch the hemandoverlayslightly longer at edges. layersthe waistline. at The lacelayer should be 1 fromthe waistline. Sew the laceSew excess lace, andremovethreadtracings.the Staystitch the lace,to manageUse stabilizer ifnecessary. Trimthe from withanarrow waistlineto point zigzag. lapped dart threadtracingsthe sidesuntil align. the dart Stitcheach point. top layerWiththe toward moving center back, overlap Put the skirt layerstogetherthe skirt Put B A RIGHT SIDES SIDES RIGHT TOGETHER. LAYER AND LACETHE LINING THE Cut the lace darts at center, at the lacedarts Cut the fromthe waistlineto LAP AND SEW AND LAP DARTSTHE IN LACE. THE and zigzag overthem. thread-traced legs the dart's Align LACE (RS) LACE (WS)

Seam/fold 1 ⁄ 2 -inch seam Align the Align Trim value.the dart 2 edge. the ribbonends. Tietrim and the overlayto down andstitchback edge,the ribbon’s along other the ribbon, cut theneedle pivot with the leftDon't sidedart. but at the edge.to very close Stop stitching throughthe ribbonandskirt the waistlineto seam/edgewithin the overlay's on side. right Stitch 3 skirt back.skirt side,the right snap at too, beneaththe overlaythe to tied whereis it 1 ⁄ 2 inch

Leave ayardtie), ribbonloose(to of the ribbonjust then align STITCH THE WAISTBAND TO RIBBON SKIRT.THE waistband to connect the underlay andoverlay.waistbandto connect For security, adda ADD ABUTTON ORSNAP. 2 THE OVERLAY’STHE EDGE. motif matched and intact asmuchpossible.motif matched andintact the overlay’sto trim the to stitch edge, keepingthe SCALLOPED LACESELVAGE TO FIT CAREFULLY ALIGNAND TRIM THE overlay edges. the curved underlay and youthe selvage apply to Matchthe lace motifas (underneath) Snap OVERLAY Underlay (RS) Place it at the right side of the side of the right at Placeit Tie Useanarrow zigzag Lace selvage

lace withcontrast lining. adelicateHighlight WINTER WINTER 2012 31

Fast &Fun Fashion 32 Blanket sewstylish

◾ SewStylish.com Coat blanket or yardage can start with a and-sew jacket This easy-to-fit- warm andcozy. gothat’s jacket chicandsuper choice for agrab-and-a perfect (BanksvilleFabrics.com) makes This coat-weight wool plaid

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal. illustration: emily Bronson. styling credits: dress—(anthroPologie.com), handBag—Bally vintage (eBay.com), Belt—steve madden (macys.com), ring—aqua (Bloomingdales.com) B B (B).the cuts,the rectangle and the dimensionsof Byadjusting you canmake many different looks fromthis simpledesign. the rectangleby folding (A).the upperedge of down ismadeby wrappingtowardthe sideedges torso portion The center front fabric,One piece of three cuts,two seamsare and allyoutimeless coat.to makethis need The shouldersandsleeves are formed The pattern starts with a rectangle sand years old—andisstillcurrent. takes The garment onerectangle fabric, of and cut collarless andminimal. collar by addinganextra fabric. piece of Youthe coat andaddpockets, canbelt orkeep it a diagramthe pattern. of Fortrenchthe coat lookshown here, Ifashioned amocknotched basic bogcoat,thou- than a oneinhistory—more the oldest isveryto be simpleandsaid blanket.the finishededges. withablanket is starting thing about The nice The pattern, a melton, soft felted wool, lovely handwoven fabric, oreven polarfleece. is senior technical editor at th technical editorat issenior Neukam Judith foldedto formthe sleeves andbody. To show youthe cutsandfolds how work, I’llgive you Choose a medium- to heavyweight fabricChoose amedium- doesn’tthat ravel ifyou’re usinganactual not 21 inches 21 inches cozy andwarm for cold autumnorwinter days—andthey are. You canmake onein a couple hoursfrom of blanket orablanketlike anactual fabric, suchasfluffy wool lanket jackets arethe fashion hitting pages lately, andit’s nowonder: They lookso Cut

Fold Shoulder a Side Fold armspan CF Cut reads. Side depth arm a Fold Cut B formsthe sleeve. you horizontallythat the edge willcut along th the jacket. the lengthof the fabricto check of run before you cut. Foldtop edge the down torso foraroundthe ease. measurements asaguide, allowextra but this coat, overto fit otherlayers. us armhole. i fabric. sweaters,to match and any patternsthe in the coatplenty roomto wear over wiggle of easeso you 10inchesof want have least at measurements forthis jacket are broad. un Orga en fold in the sides to the center.to en foldthe sides in ev like most garment sewing,like garment the most th i N e arm depth is also the height of the of the height e armdepthisalso recommend 10inchesfor least at ze mea the • Matching thread • Fabric rectangle the width Supplies for a small size. size blanket or lap blanket using. Use a twin/single- fabric or the blanket you’re the measurements to the have shorter sleeves. Adjust armspan, the jacket will fabric is narrower than your length of the jacket. If the times the desired finished of of your armspan and 1 gi Su ve your foldstest a winter winter NtS NtS reme e your body entually, you 2012 1 ⁄ 2

33

34 or leave raw. you canaddabinding, afacing, front andneckopening;these on thecenterunfinished edges willbe hasfinishededges,that theonly working withanentire blanket to securethe weave.edge ifyou’re about about also sewarowtwo straight of or stitches leavethe edge unfinished. But, you can afabric doesn’tthat fray, select you can easy. particularly makesthis project ifyou the idealedge isunfinished. that edges the Finish to formthe jacket. arm andacrossthe front the the seamsunder stitch lapped seam. then, overlap and First,the necklinewitha attachthe collarto Lapped seamsarethe key to asmoothfinish. se a cut t-shape endhorizontallythe fold,the cut along on eachsideof the making the centerthe shoulderfold. front shouldendat 3inches then cut wrap,three makethe cutsforthe jacket seams. at cut the vertical the matching andyou knowyou have adequate fabricto fold and attractively andmakethe fabric fit. When you are satisfied with the grain.than with these aretricks youto match canuse plaids considerthe rectangle acrossthe fabric’s cutting grain rather too short,is fabric addabandof the hem, at trim, addafur or With plaids, inparticular,think before you cut. the measurementsfabric to fit for a good-looking pattern match. lookplanned.patternsto match least orat Youthe canadjust acrossthe chest. You to fit yourbody, want but youalso anywant edges meet:wherethe cut the center front at andhorizontally Before makingany cuts,the fabric’s noticehow pattern matches for Pa Plan and to makethe sleevesand longer. overlappedto matchthe pattern, provide extra fabric forthe lapel, the diagramthe previous on page. here,the center-front edges were aroundteardropthe necklineintoa curved a cut shape, asshownin if the sleeveif toolong, is you upinacuff. canroll it thesleeve if sewstylish w seams the 1 ⁄ 2 inchfrom eachunfinished

. if you arethe collar, adding the use t-shapeto guide ttern matching ◾ SewStylish.com Forthe collar, that astrip cut cu fits thenecklinefrom the fits t acollar horizontal edge.the Make it width you want your lapel, then lap and sew it to the to then lapandsewit coat’s neckline.

Things Zippy Boxing Gloves50 Armchair Sewing 47 Kit Box Seat 42 Reversible Chair 38 Covers Sweet Sheets36

Home

Chair p. 8 8 3 3 . . p p , , s s r r e e v v o o C C r r i i a a h h C C e e l l b b i i s s r r e e v v e e R R

Seat, 424 . p , t a e S x o B WINTER 2012 WINTER 35

Zippy Home Things 36 sheets astyleupgrade. Trim.com) gives basicwhite Soft,trim (MJ pinkpom-pom sewstylish Sweet

◾ SewStylish.com Sheets posh with easy embellishments Take bed linens from plain to I upgrade basic bedlinens! willbechoosing part The hardest comfortable, washabletrim. and pillowcases andrealizedto is how quickandeasy it from besureto choosesoft, fabulous heapsof trims—just SARAH OPDAHL isaspecialprojects editorat The Taunton Press. trendtrimmed sets, inuniquely tried embellishingsheets I serviceable but could style. useadoseof but serviceable Inspired by a f your linen closet is anything likef your is anything mine, linencloset there are at least a couple of sheet sets that arethat there sets acouple are sheet of least at

PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL Embellish the set The whole project can be completed in about anhour. canbecompletedThe wholeproject inabout sheetsandpillowcasesto flat is supersimple.trim Adding 3 1 hem stitchingline. or folded back. Fold eachend.trim underat the isdrawnthe sheet fltrim willshowwhen the that so pin it at edge, inplace. andpinit whetheryou Bemindfulof to want the trim along the seamline at the fl the seamlineat trim along the sheet’sat hem widest PIN PIN THE TRIM TO FLATTHE SHEET. on the sheet,on then pininplace. Arrangetrim wherethe you’d like PREP PREP PILLOWCASES.THE open one seam from the hem edge to just beyondthe to just open oneseamfromthe hemedge seam witharipper. Open onepillowcase RS

WS Usingaseamripper, Arrange 2 YOU SEW. both edges, asshown. one row stitching; of fortrim, wider topstitch along 4 ends in the seam. ends in andresewthe seamyoupillowcase inside out opened,trim catchingthe two rowsthe pillowcase with oneor to stitching. of trim the Then,the turn two rows stitching. of Here,trim necessitates awide Topstitchthe sheet.to trim the SHEET, REMOVING AS PINS THE TOPSTITCH THE TRIM TO FLATTHE APPLY THE TRIM. line, withitsendsextendingthe pillowcase intoseamallowance. Sew WS If the trim isnarrow,the If you canusejust opening and stitch it closed. opening andstitchit trim edges intothe the pillowcase Aftertrim,the topstitching tuck Pin the trim in place along the hemstitching trim inplacealong the Pin MJTrim.com). Hill.com; grosgrain ribbon, trim, boat Weathervane a plaingray (sail- set sheet navy grosgrain dresses up while asmart, masculine adventuresome smallboy, for an trim isperfect Above, awidesailboat and colorsto fi any décor.t trims inpatternsChoose • Seam ripper • Matching thread • 5 yards decorative trim, • Set of full-size sheets Supplies ribbon, or tape pillowcases with matching WINTER WINTER 2012 37

Zippy Home Things

A reversible chair cover lets you easily go from breakfast chic in a pretty cotton, to dinner elegant in gold satin (all fabrics shown, HartsdaleFabrics.com).

Reversible Chair Redecorate your dining room for every event Covers

38 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

hether for a holiday party, a children’s birthday cel- ebration, or simply for everyday use, reversible chair covers give your dining room a unique style for any Woccasion. Easy to sew with just a few seams, they require merely Supplies 3 3 two ⁄4-yard pieces of fabric for each cover, making them an • ⁄4 yard decorative fabric for the main side economical way to transform a room. Choose a unique brocade 3 • ⁄4 yard decorative fabric for an elegant celebration, a whimsical cotton print for a day of for the reverse side make-believe, or a modern home décor fabric for everyday style. • Matching thread In only a few steps—measure the chair, cut the fabric, and sew the seams—you’ll complete this easy and fun home decorating project.

ANNIE O’CONNOR is an assistant editor at Threads. Choose, measure, and cut the fabric

Reversible chair covers enable you to get two looks in one. The two sides can be different materials, but should be close in weight. Prewash the fabrics before cutting if you want them to be machine washable after construction.

SELECT TWO MID- TO LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS. The 1 materials should not be too lightweight (you don’t want show-through) or too heavy (to avoid bulky covers). Since the covers are reversible, the two sides do not have to coordinate in color.

DETERMINE THE CHAIR BACK WIDTH. Measure the chair 2 back’s widest point and add the chair back depth. Add 2 inches for seam allowances and ease.

MEASURE THE CHAIR Width 3 BACK HEIGHT. Starting at the bottom of the chair back, Depth measure from the seat to the top of the chair, and add half of the chair back depth, plus 1-inch seam allowance. Height CUT THE COVERS. Cut 4 two rectangles on grain from each fabric, using the height and width determined in steps 2 and 3. If the fabric has a motif, be sure to center it.

Measure your chair and add ease and seam allowances.

WINTER 2012 39

40 sewstylish from one of the fabrics or a coordinating fabric. Before sewing the lower edge, insert a ruffle trim made Add a ruffle. fabrics before constructing the covers. Give your covers an artistic look by piecing together Piece it together. offshowing homedecorating your style. canvasThese coversthe perfect for are Decorative options

◾ SewStylish.com now a lining. side and the reverse side is may want to use only one hide inside. Therefore, you they may be difficult to that if the ties are large, top than the bottom. Note back is much wider at the cover shape if the chair cially helpful to give the ribbon ties. This is espe- seams, add self-fabric or Before sewing the side Tie it up. allowances are the seamsareSince enclosed,they are left unfinished. Allseam A few simpleseamsmakethese stylishandpractical covers. Sew the covers the seamallowance. chair depth. trim the the lengthof the cornersSew Sew the top andsideseams. the Sew Sewn corner 10-inch opening. 10-inch leavingto a7-inch the lowerSew edge, 1 ⁄ 2 inchwide. opening trimmed corner Sewn and 2 1 allowance. chairs.the seam Presstrim and the the depthof the seams to the sideseam. sewperpendicular seamwith top-edge the align allowances. fabric. Pressthe sideseam open first fabric. thesecond on repeat the the sideseamson and sew together, sides right align, pin, cover’s reverse side). next, with this forthe second fabric (the seam allowances open. repea the first fabric, thenpress the pin, top edge of the andsew right sides together, sides right align, Sew Se the corner Sew and trim the 3 forturning. opening to 10-inch 7-inch the way around, leaving a of three-quarters sew the lower edges.and pin together. sides right align cover,the covers so are the other place inside cover and sideout right together. cover Sew the S. at eachcorner, am S turn one S. with t

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal. illustrations: John lePak and hand-sew the opening.and hand-sew Turnthe cover sideout, right The chaircovers avariety diningroom of fit to are shown chairshapes. simpleandcanbeadapted Chair variations

A Continue as usual. second fabric and sew. Copy this curve to the excess seam allowance. new seam, and trim the curve, remove, sew the the cover to fit around the side out, on the chair. Pin place the cover, wrong top and side seam. Then, facing page to sew the Follow the steps on the Rounded back topstitch. edges under and hand- or with bias tape or turn the Either bind the finial openings as directed on the facing page. seams. Sew the bottom edge the finials) and tack the cut depth of the largest point of fit the finials (the width and side seams. Cut the corners to them to show. Sew the top and can create cutouts to allow If the chair has finials, you Finials aroundthe lower edge. Finishthe covers topstitching by B 4 lower edge (B). Pressthe seams. all opening closed(a),topstitch aroundthe or the inside.allowancesto the hand-sew righ Tu Through T T rn rn side ou side Th e chair covere chair (see “Decorative options”). and attach ties to cinch it the cover a simple rectangle seat and wider at the top, keep chair back is narrower at the accordingly. However, if the top, you may shape the cover wider at the seat than the If the chair back is much difference Dramatic width each top edge before sewing. midweight interfacing strip to add a 4-inch- to 5-inch-wide cover over these cutouts, the top edge. To support the have decorative shaping at Some dining room chairs Shaped top Th T. e opening, Pressthe seam winter winter 2012 41

Zippy Home Things

Expand your seating options and accent your décor with a comfy floor cushion

Box

It’s easy to make a boxed fl oor cushion without a pattern. Seat

42 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal. illustration: emily Bronson F larger boxed cushion. deep boxed cushioncover. Youthe dimensionsifyouto make wish asmalleror canadjust this page provides a layout for 54-inch-wide fabric and dimensions for a 24-inch-square, 4-inch- dimensions arethe cushionsize determinedby you to wishmake. The cutting diagram on The shapesforthe cushioncover are simplesquares, rectangles, andbiasstrips,the and Prepare the cushion pieces education andhomedécor sewingsupplies(HomeFashionsU.com). care natural- orsynthetic-fiber materials, suchas twillorcanvas,cotton polyester microfiber, along the seamsgivesalong aprofessional lookandreinforcesthe cushion’s shape. Chooseeasy- andelevationample support forthe sitterandwon’t squasheasily. Fabric-covered cording washable box cushioncovers, prewash your chosenfabric. inches square and4inchesdeep. you prefer. common sizethe most show youto box sew These instructions how cushion: 24 Claudia BuCh Claudia leather-look vinyl, orfade- andstain-resistant, indoor/outdoor fabrics suchasSunbrella. For Make boxed aseriesof cushionsincolorsto complement your décor andinany dimensions Filled foam upholstery withablockof oracushioninsert, aboxed floorcushionprovides They are agreat optionfor everyday useorwhenyou have large gatherings. Aboxed cushion iscomfortable andelegant,to make apattern. andissimple without loor cushionsare aconvenient solutionfor extra seating your insideoroutsideof home. 72 inches

32 inches 25 inches anan isownerofHomeFashions UinPeoria, Arizona, whichoffers onlinesewing 25 inches B d a Bias pipingstrips

e 54 inches C a

B e. d. C. B. a. B F Z si to 2 inches by 30 inches to2 inchesby 36inches 30inches 5 inchesby 49inches 5 inches by 25 inches 5 inchesby 25inches 5 inchesby 25inches 25-inch squares ront boxing strip: 1, Cut ias pipingstrip: 7, Cut ipper boxing strip: 2, Cut de boxing strip: 1, Cut p/bottom: 2, Cut Measurements Cutting lines 1 1 the two zipper boxingthe strips(B). edges, exceptthe biasstrips(e), and sergethe cut orzigzag-stitch all to keepthe piecesorganized.piece the to properit fabric and affix eachpieceonastickyname of note B, the code letter(a, accordingthe diagramto left. at the fabricthe cuttinglineson selvage width. measure andmark side down,to itsfullselvage-to- cut the piecesasmarked. cut write lines. Mark Cu the • Sticky notes • Sewing machine • Matching thread • Glass-head home décor • Chalk pencil or air-soluble • 24-inch-square boxed • 25 inches no. 4 or no. 5 • 6 yards soft cellulose cord- • 2 yards 54-inch-wide home 4-inch-deep box cushion Makes a 24-inch-square, supplies zipper foot pins or T pins fabric pen SuppliesAndFoam.com) Dacron wrap (Upholstery or foam block with CompanyStore.com), pillow insert (The FashionsU.com) slider (Shop.Home cushion coil zipper and U.com) ing (Shop.HomeFashions décor/upholstery fabric unfoldthe fabric, right ConTi winter winter c, etc.) or part c, orpart etc.) tting nue 2012 D >>> 43

PREPARE THE ZIPPER 2 BOXING STRIPS. Fold Unfolded both 5-inch by 25-inch zipper boxing strips (B) in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, to create two 1 ZIPPER BOXING 2⁄2-inch by 25-inch strips. Serge or STRIP (WS) zigzag the raw edges together.

ZIPPER BOXING STRIP (RS)

Folded, with raw edges serged

RS Stitch close to the cord along the bias strip.

Form a 90-degree angle with the bias strip ends, right sides together, WS then stitch diagonally across the lapped ends.

Diagonal seam

WS

Once sewn, RS unfold the bias strip, press the seam allowances open, and trim.

CREATE A CONTINUOUS BIAS STRIP FOR COVER THE CORDING. Lay the bias strip right side down. Center the cord on 3 THE PIPING. To sew the bias strips (E) into one 4 top of the strip, then fold the fabric strip lengthwise over the cord, enclosing it. Pin continuous length, position one strip right side up and the fabric along the cut edges. Attach a zipper foot to your sewing machine and stitch align another strip perpendicularly over the fi rst strip’s end, the fabric strip closed around the cord; stitch close to the cord. wrong side up. Stitch diagonally across the ends; press the seam allowances open and then trim. Continue sewing the remaining strips in the same way until you have a 6-yard- to 7-yard-long bias strip.

44 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Assemble the cushion cover Sewing the boxed cushion’s components together is simple. It’s helpful to first decide which of the cushion’s four 1 sides will house the zipper; the piping should begin and end on the same side as the zipper. Use ⁄2-inch-wide seam allowances throughout. If you’re using a cushion zipper, you must attach a slider and stop (read the tip on page 46).

SEW THE PIPING TO BOTH CUSHION FACES 1 Cut the piping ⁄2 inch longer than needed, then cut A 1 (A). 1 away ⁄2 inch of the cord from inside one end. Fold this end’s Piping’s end A 1 overlaps the covering back on itself by ⁄4 inch, wrong sides together, and starting point. press. Position this end 2 inches from a corner, and align the piping fl ange with the cushion face’s edge. Pin the piping around the cushion face. Begin stitching the piping 1 inch from the corner. Just before the corner, stop with the needle down, 1 raise the presser foot, and clip into the piping fl ange ⁄4 inch Piping starting 3 to ⁄8 inch to help the piping conform to the corner. Drop the point folded under presser foot and stitch the piping in place around the corner. Clipped corner Stitch the piping around the remaining sides, clipping the corners in the same way. Before fi nishing, open the piping covering at the starting point and pin it fl at. Then, lap the piping’s end over the starting point, wrap the starting point’s piping covering over it, and stitch in place.

Insert the zipper Zipper boxing Sew the boxing strips between the two strips (RS) together, end-to-end, to zipper boxing strips. create a continuous band.

D

B ZIPPER BOXING STRIPS

C

B

Zipper

CREATE THE ZIPPER BOXING. Attach a zipper foot to your SEW THE BOXING STRIPS INTO A CONTINUOUS 2 sewing machine. With the zipper closed, align the folded edge of one 3 BAND. Pin one short end of boxing strip C to one short end of boxing zipper boxing strip (B) along the center of the zipper teeth or coil. Sew strip D, right sides together, and sew. Then, pin one end of the zipper 3 ⁄8 inch from the folded edge along the length of the zipper and zipper boxing strip to boxing strip C’s free end, and the other end of the zipper boxing. When you reach the zipper slider, raise the presser foot and shift boxing strip to boxing strip D’s free end, right sides together, and sew. the slider out of the way. Continue sewing to the zipper’s end. Repeat on the opposite side of the zipper with the remaining zipper boxing strip (B).

CONTINUED >>>

WINTER 2012 45

AttAch the boxing b An d to 4 the cushion f Aces. Pin the band to one cushion face (A), right sides together. cushion When sewing the boxing Place the zipper closure on the same side as fAce (Ws) band to the cushion face, stitch the corners first. the piping’s joined ends, and align the band’s boxing band seams with the cushion face’s corners. Mark all (Ws) cushion corners on the band with chalk or fabric pen, or by snipping into the seam allowance. Sew all four corners of the band and cushion face together first; this helps keep the corners on-center. Once the corners are sewn, open stitched corners the zipper and stitch along each straight edge of the boxing band and cushion face. Sew the boxing band to the second cushion face in the cushion same way. fAce (Ws)

Refine the se Am. Sew around all four sides of the boxing band and cushion faces again, 5 stitching closer to the piping. This tightens the piping in the seam and conceals its stitching lines on the cushion’s right side.

Using a CUshion Zipper

If you use a cushion zipper, Zipper stop which is sold by the yard, you’ll need to attach a zip- per slider. Attach it before installing the zipper. You may also wish to sew a stop at boxed pilloW inseRt each zipper end to prevent the slider from slipping off during cushion construction. fold the pillow For the zipper stops, cut two insert in half, and strips of fabric and stitch one slide it through the to each end of the zipper. zipper opening.

complete the cushion. Turn the cushion cover right side out. To insert the cushion 6 filler (either a foam block or boxed pillow insert), gently fold it in half and slide it through the zipper opening. Try not to put too much pressure on the zipper. Unfold the filler and make sure its corners are aligned with the cushion cover’s corners. Fluff the filler as necessary and close the zipper.

46 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Zippy Home Things Armchair Organize your tools so they’re ready when you are Sewing Kit

Make hand sewing a pleasure by keeping tools close at hand in a custom kit.

WINTER 2012 47

M sewing. Ifinally realized Ilove down inacomfortableto hand-sew whenIcansit chair, prop upmy feet, over yourthe armof sofa orarmchair. The keyto comfortable ande≤ handsewing ishavingcient your and finish agarment. Ifyou’re things hangingfrom crazy your not about neck,this armchairsew- try kit is easy to move iseasy kit fromto settledown anywhere sewing stationto stationthen and you like for hand portable. foundation Iusedaplace mat andmadeclearvinyltools. zipperedthe pocketsto hold The is senior technical editor at Threadstechnical editorat issenior . NEUKAM JUDITH ing kit. was It invented yourto holdallof favoritetools inoneconvenient hand containerthat’s also equipment readilyequipment available. listen to music,listen watchtelevision, the speaker). oreventhe phone(with talk on unfoldsto layThis kit 3 1 flat, down.the kit the exterior with sideof youthat throughthin enough cansew it. Lay it use, foldsthe kit into arollties for and safekeeping. isuniquebecauseeveryEachtool collection isindividual. kit and place mat When it’s in not Map and fit your kit FUNCTION. scissors easilyaccessible. Thread supply Professional seamstresses often containsthat wear abagaroundtothe necktheyfi everything need t YOUR CHOICE. START WITH PLACEMATTHE OF THE PLACEMATTHE FOR FIT AND ARRANGE CONTENTSTHE ON

any people balk at the handsewing involvedany peoplebalkat inmakingclothes, couldthe beoneof it but be sure it’s inonehandyplace soyou don’t haveto searchtools. for the right the process. enjoyable of most parts Make acelebration: it Useyour favorite equipment, and Make pins,thread, needles, and Bees’ wax Chooseonesuppleand Basting thread Seam ripper turner Point 2 4 contain somethingmorethan pocket.the pocketstheir contents Build with their size. dictating ASSEMBLE ASSEMBLE CONTENTSTHE OF YOUR KIT. tools willvary, sizes,the placemat asdo makingevery unique. kit placement and the direction the pocketsthe direction open. and placement to Ifapocket needs placement and the direction the pocketsthe direction open. and placement to Ifapocket needs DRAW OF AMAP POCKETS.THE Chalk pencil Cutting mat Seam gauge Ruler Pin magnet 1 ⁄ 2 inch thick, inch the the bottomof in addapleat Needles Indicatethe zipper Scissors Your favorite Pins Hooks andsnaps • Zipper by the yard • Place mat • Elastic • Double-fold bias • Cutting mat • Clear vinyl • 1 yard ribbon Supplies (Clotilde.com) (Clotilde.com) tape Thimble Tape measure

PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL 3 1 enjoy your convenient sewingkit. and mat. Loadthepockets allof the place to the elastic Then stitch place mat, andsecurewithpins. it to yourthe the elastic scissorson Fit the scissorsto hold elastic in place. inplace.the mat hold the same Use elastic stripsoverthe cornersto the e≠ ort. Then sewdiagonal to size, the mat it’s but well worth to cut saw orheavy-duty scissors pinning andsewing. You’ll needa for anonscratchable surface for the DollarStore orIkea. It’s used orasmallflmat exible from mat Bind the pocket sides with bias tape,the pocket sideswithbias Bind the binding. catchingthe zipperendsin the pocket’s the backsideof teeth alignwith the zipper align andtopedge. the vinyl.tape edge.the lower Stitchalong Foldthe pocket soitssideedges with sliderattached,top layerthe top edge on of sideupacrossthe right with the place mat’swith remainingtuckedthird inside. to securethe finishedkit,tails aretied The unsewn ribbon two-thirdsthe place mat’s lengthwise on of tering it exterior. Beforethe pockets, sewing attachthe ribbonby cen- andsew Sew the elements together if the pocket needs to be thickerthan to be the pocket needs if in adoublelayer, withafoldthe bottomedge. on the fold at Addapleat to makethe desired eachpocket.to the clearvinyl pocket dimension Cut BUILD POCKETS.BUILD THE MAT. ADD CUTTINGTHE It can be cut from aused canbecut It Optional pleat

Determine howwideanddeepyou want 1 ⁄ 2 inch. Lay acut-by-the-yard zipper, to bindedges Bias tape Bias 2 end. Repeat forthe remaining pockets. the placemat.pocket backand Back-tackthe beginningand the stitchesat wrong side and stitch through the unsewn zipper tape,wrongthroughthe unsewnzipper sideandstitch catchingthe ATTACH POCKETS.THE Elastic holders Cutting mat and place mat to attach thepocket.and place mat tape,throughSewthe zipper pocket back, Positionthe placemat’s eachpocket on Bias binding WINTER WINTER 2012 49

Zippy Home Things

Keep gloves looking fresh with this lovely Boxing storage option Gloves

Supplies 1 • ⁄2 yard fabric (anything from ta≠ eta to

upholstery fabric) 3 • ⁄16-inch-thick foam core board (Michaels.com) 1 • ⁄8-inch-thick foam core for lining • Decorative paper for lining the box (DickBlick.com) This padded box can be as • Fabric strip or 4-inch-long ribbon dressy or casual as its owner and its treasured contents. • Felt to cover box bottom • Glue, such as Beacon’s Fabri-Tac • Oak tag • Old coin or decorative charm

• Short appliqué straight pins (JoAnn.com) • Thin batting or felt for padding

50 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal. illustrations: emily Bronson A Followthe pieces. the measurements to cut below the process.finished in The finishedbox is12incheslongby 4incheswide. paper orbatting andfabric,the edges andcorners andassembledso are The box ismadeof Cut the pieces alwaysto pullfromthe onesIused mythan coat lookbetter pocket. The box keepsthe gloves smoothandlookingnice. pretty andluxurious, you’ll wantto make severalthings youtreasure.the to holdandprotect box andworethe gloves. The box now lives onmy piano, alovelythe lidandpullout andwhenIlift gloves, pairof they is senior technical editor at th technical editorat issenior Neukam Judith a. d. F. g. C. e. B. Lid: Cut Box end: 2of Cut Lining side: 2of Cut Side: 2of Cut fabric, batting, paperlining, 13 oak tag 12inchesby 4inches,oak to fit. trim and Lining end: 2of Cut Here, I’llshow youto make how abeautifulglove boxthe vintage reminiscent lingerie of boxes from my past. They’re so

Batting wrap: cover Cut fabric andbatting, 34 inches by 2inches. by 1 by 2inches. by 1 by 3 cut paperlining,cut 11 Bottom: Cut 5 5 ⁄ ⁄ 1 ⁄ foam core Batting Cover fabric tag Oak Paper lining foam core 1 3 8 8 ⁄ ⁄ 2 inches; paperlining, 2of cut 11 inches; paperlining, 2of cut 3 8 inches. 16 -inch-thick -inch-thick 3 ⁄ 16 silky smoothandlacy. Shehadfabulous paddedboxes housedandseparatedthat andotherdelicate herhosiery pleasant memory of my of memory childhoodislookinginmypleasant mother’s lingerie drawer. always It smelledbeautifulandwas items. Awhileback, Ispiedasimilarlingerie box arummage sale. at was It filledwithvintage gloves. the Ibought

-inch-thick foam core, 11 3 ⁄ 3 16 ⁄ 16 -inch-thick foam core, 11 -inch-thick foam core, 12inches 3 ⁄ 16 5 ⁄ -inch-thick foam core, 3 1 1 8 ⁄ ⁄ inchesby 3 8 8 -inch-thick foam core, 3 -inch-thick foam core, 11 3 ⁄ 16 -inch-thick foam-core rectangles covered ineither 1 ⁄ 4 inchesby 5 5 ⁄ 8 3 inches. ⁄ 8 by 3 3 ⁄ 5 ⁄ 8 8 inchesby 3inches. 5 by 3inches. ⁄ 8 inchesby 3 3 ⁄ 8 inches; cover cut 1 5 ⁄ ⁄ 4 8 inches; cut inches 3 ⁄ 5 ⁄ 8 inches 8 inches 5 ⁄ 8 inches; reads. Lid F Side C LiNiNg LiNiNg Side B Ba tti g wra Ng g LiNiNg eNd LiNiNg P LiNiNg eNd eNd LiNiNg BOttOm B eNd OX OX d e a d e eNd LiNiNg LiNiNg Side B winter winter 2012 Side C 51

Prepare the elements and assemble the box When the pieces are cut, wrap the lining foam core pieces, and assemble the box sides with pins.

Cover the Join the box box sides wrap the long edges pieces with pins. with batting with lining paper, and and fabric. glue the edges to secure.

Cover the lining pieCe s. Wrap assemble the outer box. Insert Cover the box sides with 1 each piece with lining paper, and glue around 2 short pins into the base and the corners to 3 batting and fabriC. Layer the the edges. These pieces fit inside the box. connect the pieces, as shown. The base nests batting and fabric and wrap them around the 3 within the box sides. box sides, with ⁄4 inch of each extending beyond the box edges. Pin temporarily in place, trim the 1 batting to ⁄2-inch-wide, and fold and glue the fabric edges inside and underneath the box. (For Cover the lid with greater visibility, the box is shown without batting and fabric. its bottom.)

Cover the lid. Wrap the lid with batting and fabric. Pin 1 4 temporarily in place. Trim the batting to ⁄2 inch beyond the box edges, and fold the fabric edges to the lid’s wrong side. Clip the corners to turn smoothly. Glue the edges in place on the lid’s interior side.

i nsert the lining. Insert the paper trim the oak tag. Cut the oak tag fi nish the box. Glue the handle to 5 lining inside the box bottom. Then slide the 6 to cover the fabric edges inside the lid. Cover 7 the end of the box lid, and then glue the lid covered lining pieces inside the box; they’ll fit the oak tag with glue and apply the lining paper, liner to cover all the fabric edges. Cut a piece of tightly for a clean finish. wrapping it around the edges. Make a handle from felt large enough to cover all the fabric edges on a fabric strip or ribbon and an old coin, as shown. the box bottom, and glue it in place.

52 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Snappy Accessories

Bling Around 70 the Collar Appliqué Barrettes68 Pass 63 the Envelope Glam Wristlet58 The Koos 54 Loop Bling Around the Collar

Around Collar p. 0 7 . p r, a l l o C e h t d n u o r A g n i l B

the p. 3 6 . p , e p o l e v n E e h t s s a P the p. 3 6 . p , e p o l e v n E e h t s s a P

Wristlet, 58 8 5 5 . . p p , , t t e e l l t t s s i i r r W W m m a a l l G G WINTER 2012 WINTER 53

Snappy Accessories The KoosLoop A designer’s spin on the infi nity scarf

his unique scarf is made with on-grain fabric strips and straight seams, but you wouldn’t guess it wasn’t cut and sewn on the bias. The secret is in the ingeniousT construction method. A long seam transforms a fl at fabric rectangle into a spiral tube, similar to the card- board tube within a paper towel roll. When the tube’s ends are joined, the loop scarf has a twist that imparts a graceful drape. The construction is fast and very easy to do. Once you make one, you’ll want to try more. Dutch-born designer Koos van den Akker is known as “The Master of Fabric Collage,” and his genius is to discover daring fabric combinations and innovative construction techniques. This project is a perfect example. It combines multiple materials and bindings, the better to reduce your fabric stash and play up the twisting formation. So follow this designer’s creativity and experiment! You’ll enjoy the unique results.

ADAPTED FROM “The Koos Loop” by Linda Teufel in Threads no. 158.

Koos van den Akker’s scarf features rayon brocade strips and silk dupioni bindings on a Koos van den Akker wool jersey base.

54 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Supplies Create a strip collage • Fabrics: Select a base fabric, a ground to overlay with fashion fabric strips and bindings. > 2 yards base fabric > 2 yard strips, 4 inches to 8 inches Though there is leeway in fabric choice for this project, select textiles that drape wide, of two contrasting or and feel good against the skin. complementary fabrics • 4 packages single-fold bias CUT A BASE FABRIC PIECE. The example 1 binding (or cut and fold 1 is 20 inches by 70 inches, including ⁄2-inch seam Silk charmeuse your own) allowances. Cut fashion fabric and binding strips as fashion fabric • Matching thread long as the base fabric for embellishment. strips • Spray adhesive (permanent but repositionable) Microfi ber faux suede base fabric

Silk dupioni single-fold binding strips

Use spray adhesive to position the fashion fabric strips.

ADHERE THE 2 FASHION Our sample loop combines Grainline FABRIC STRIPS faux suede and silk fabrics. TO THE BASE FABRIC. Use a permanent but repositionable adhesive on a strip’s wrong side, and focus it on BASE FABRIC (RS)

70 inches 70 the lengthwise center Single-fold (away from the seam binding allowances). Place the sticky side down, on Use binding to cover Fashion the fashion fabric the base fabric’s right fabric strips’ raw edges over side. Align the short strips the base fabric. ends, and keep the long edges parallel. Apply additional fashion 1 fabric strips, parallel to APPLY ⁄2-INCH-WIDE, SINGLE-FOLD BINDING. Single-fold binding the fi rst. To secure the 3 is folded on each long edge. Edgestitch the binding over the fashion fabric’s raw strips in place, you can edges to the base fabric. If you make your own binding, it’s not necessary to cut it on 1 baste ⁄8 inch from each the bias, since all seams are straight. Cut 1-inch strips, and use a bias-tape maker or 1 strip’s long edges. hand-fold each long edge ⁄4 inch to the wrong side. 20 inches

WINTER 2012 55

56 1 fabric. the scarf the restof to fold perpendicular it in front you. of endand the right Pick up Grainline 3 4 spiral seam. the pins markanopeningin 5inchesapart. about The allowancestwo points at together.sides the seam Pin them asseamallowances, right to 3 inches from the scarf’s other short end. othershort to 3inchesfromthe scarf’s You’ll later.the scarf turn to the 5-inchopening use and some straight stitching to turn a flat fabricturn aflat and somestraightto rectangle stitching intothisnew shape. spiralsthat tube withaseam aroundtakes isa two it. folds is This scarf Allit Sew a spiral tube sewstylish LAY FABRIC SCARF THE FLAT. Place it right sideupandhorizontally right Place it RAW EDGES. ABUTTEDPINCH THE and the fabricand rotatestube asyou into a sew. end. short 3inchesfromthe scarf’s Sewfromthe second Stopsewingabout pin STITCH FROMPIN TOWARD ONE CLOSERTHE END. SCARF

indicated by orange arrows. is Stitching direction ◾ spirals intotube. a each end. The fabric towardopening Sew fromthe 5-inch SewStylish.com Align 5-inch opening Pins

WS WS opening 5-inch Grainline SCARF (WS)SCARF Grainline is odSecond fold fold First Second fold Keepthe raw edges aligned;the seamspirals, Grainline 2 the folds. raw between edges meet another 45-degree fold. The Foldtoward you. it willform It unsewn 3 inches FABRIC’S LEFTEND. UP PICK SCARFTHE SCARF (WS)SCARF Gr from each scarf end.from eachscarf edges. Stop sewing 3inches the scarf’s long The seamjoins WS ainline Grainline

betweenthe folds. the longraw Abut edges 3 inchesunsewn Raw edges Grainline Grainline First foldFirst

PHOTOS: (P. 54 AND P. 57, TOP LEFT AND BOTTOM LEFT) JACK DEUTSCH, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL, HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLELIA BERGONZOLI/UTOPIANYC.COM; (P. 54, INSET) RICHARD KOEK PHOTOGRAPHY; ALL OTHERS, SLOAN HOWARD. ILLUSTRATIONS: ROSANN BERRY. STYLING CREDITS: (P. 54) COAT—(ZARA.COM), EARRINGS—KENNETH COLE (MACYS.COM); (P. 57, TOP LEFT) TOP—BORDEAUX (ANTHROPOLOGIE.COM), EARRINGS—(BANANAREPUBLIC.COM); (P. 57, BOTTOM LEFT) DRESS AND JACKET—(ZARA.COM).

straight seams. on-grain fabric and cut, requires only but drapes asifbias- scarf The completed loop adds volume. Batting within base fabric. binding ora grain, without strips pieced on made withsilk van denAkker is This loopby Koos

fitwisted loop. isa nished scarf tube’sWiththe endsjoined,the 3 1 2 Sew the remainderthe spiralSew of seam. Turn sideout. tube right the scarf 4 the ends to createthe ends aneasy-to-weartwist. loopwitha tube’s The spiralthe scarf seamruns length. Connect full circle Bring the seam Pressthe seamallowances open. necessary.together.the ends Sew Twist andrealignthe endsif the loopfortwist.and check a fabric strips.together,the ends Pin ends, andmatchingthe fashion together, sides right the aligning acrossthe ends’ seamallowances. Completethe longspiral seam, sewing THE SPIRAL SEAMSECTIONS. SPIRAL THE OPEN PRESS SEAMALLOWANCESTHE ALONG pin,together.the ends then sew and sideout,Withthe loopright align, THE 5-INCH OPENING. 5-INCH THE TURN LOOPTHE OUTWRONG SIDE THROUGH CONNECT CONNECT ENDS. THE Foldtube inhalf,the putting THE 5-INCH OPENING. 5-INCH THE TURN OUT LOOP THE SIDE RIGHT THROUGH Grainline Scarf ends’Scarf seam

the openingclosed. Whipstitch

RS WINTER 2012 WINTER Scarf tube ends Scarf Spiral seam WS WS 57

Snappy Accessories Glam Make a fun little bag to carry the essentialsWristlet

Supplies 1 • ⁄3 yard 55-inch or 60-inch-wide faux leather for the side panels, trim, and wrist strap 1 • ⁄2 yard cotton fabric for the lining and pockets 1 • ⁄3 yard silk dupioni for the center panel and pockets binding 1 • ⁄2 yard muslin for interlining • 10-inch plastic- or metal-toothed zipper (Wawak.com) • Topstitching thread, 12-weight (RedRockThreads.com) Optional: 3 • ⁄4 yard lace yardage for center panel overlay 3 • ⁄4 yard clear iron-on vinyl to laminate center panel (CreateForLess.com)

Mix faux leathers and fabrics for

di≠ erent wristlet results. Combine faux snakeskin with a bold cotton print, or use fake alligator with lace.

58 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Photos: sLoan howard, styList: Jessica saaL. iLLustrations: emiLy Bronson T 4 center panel and the seamallowancescenter paneland from eachseam. Prepare the bag exterior from one top edge to the other.to fromtop edge one Seamallowances are the pieces.Follow the patternto cut onpage 92 abottom seam. ismadewithout The wristlet The exterior foldsto wrap glamorous results could surpriseyou. with iron-on clearvinyl. This isyourto combine chance faux leather withfabrics would youwork with—the think it didn’t noveltytextile, you oranything choose. Ifyour fancy fabricthe iron, canwithstand we’llitssurface show youto protect how CzeK Cheryl KuCzeK The center panel, framed by faux leather,to featurethe place is alovely remnant, suchaslace, fancy brocade, asequined the seams.the Fold panelthe trim along topstitching construction. strap hasawrist sewn into It asideseam, four interior pockets, andazipperclosure. his minibag is not onlyafabuloushis minibagisnot you way what need—it’s just to carry alsoanexcitingto useupspecial project fabric remnants. At 9incheslong, 6incheshigh,the bottom, and3inchesdeepat the designfeatures simple, sturdy

topstitchthroughthe i s the creators ofParadiso Designs. ParadisoDesigns.com. herpatternstutorials at and Checkout Cen ter Fold iron-on panel vinyl 1 ⁄ 4 inch 5 1 2 iron-on vinyl. threads or beforelint the applying makethe laceisfree sure that of silk,the lace.then theedges. align sides up,the muslin, place then together,the longedges. align sewwitha seam and topstitch. seam and seam allowance. Foldthe the sidepanelalong layersthe together within the panelsurface,to the panel pin the vinyl.the vinyl isbonded once to bond Follow the instructions centerthe vinyl over the panel. set bathe seam allowance. panelCe pie staCK Ce Conne vinyl’s ba pe nter panel. FF el oFF topstitching the the Ct 1 ⁄ 2 CKi inchwideunlessnotedotherwise. a side panel aside to the the iron-onthe Center Center CKi s. ng aside. with righ ng and with sides right 1 ⁄ 2 -inch t Fold

3 edge to a center panel short edge.to acenteredge panelshort sewwitha the other trim piece.the other allowance. repeatthe center panel’s at endwith othershort 1 ⁄ 2 Finish Ce the Finish withtogether, sides right trim piece’s aligna panel long -inch seam paneltrim 6 pieced rectangle formsthe wristlet. the opposite center panel’salong edge. the sew, fold,the othersidepanel topstitch and Complete bagthe exterior. nter panel’s short ends. to finish piecing thebag to finishpiecing exterior. Foldthe sidepanels topstitch and bag Cen ter exterior (rs panel 1 win ⁄ ) 2 -inch seam Te r 2012

59

Sew the strap

The flat wrist strap is folded and stitched for three layers of faux leather and four rows of topstitching. Always stitch with the same side uppermost and in the same direction to achieve even, designer-look topstitching.

1 Stitch again ⁄8 inch

3 from the fi rst fold and Mark a line ⁄4 inch from a catch the raw edge. long edge on the wrist strap. 3 ⁄4 inch Second fold

Stitch close to the fold First fold First fold

3 DRAW A LINE ⁄4 INCH FROM A FOLD IN THE LONG EDGE FOLD IN THE WRIST STRAP’S 1 LONG EDGE. Use a ballpoint pen on the 2 FARTHER FROM THE LINE TO THE 3 OTHER LONG EDGE. Align it to the wrist strap piece’s wrong side. WRONG SIDE. Align the edge to the mark. fi rst stitching line. The strap is now three layers, 1 1 Clip the fold in place. Stitch ⁄16 inch from the fold. with a fold along each long edge. Sew ⁄16 inch from the fi rst stitching line, through all layers and very close to the raw edge.

CHECK YOUR TENSION 1 1⁄2 inches When using heavy topstitching thread, you may need to tighten the sewing machine ten- sion to get a consistent stitch on the work’s right CENTER PANEL and wrong sides. Test (RS) stitches on remnants.

Stitch a total of four topstitching Stitch length should be rows, two along each long edge. from 3.5 mm to 5.0 mm, to avoid weakening the faux leather. TOPSTITCH TWICE MORE. Along ALIGN BOTH WRIST STRAP ENDS 1 4 the opposite folded edge, stitch ⁄16 inch and 5 WITH THE LONG EDGE. On the 1 ⁄8 inch from the fold. The wrist strap should have side panel’s right side, place the wrist strap so four stitching rows, paired along each long wrist its folded edges abut, not overlap. Place the 1 strap edge. uppermost strap edge 1⁄2 inches from the bag’s top edge. Baste the wrist strap ends to the panel within the seam allowance.

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Insert the zipper

The zipper is sewn in before the wristlet’s side seams are sewn. The fabric is not sewn close to the zipper, to keep the fabric from getting caught in the zipper teeth.

Sew close to the Fold Topstitching zipper tape edge.

RS

Place the zipper and Fold the wristlet’s top edge back the wristlet right from the zipper and topstitch. sides together.

ALIGN THE ZIPPER TAPE EDGE TO ONE OF THE FOLD BACK THE WRISTLET’S TOP EDGE TO ALIGN WITH 3 1 WRISTLET’S TOP EDGES. Orient the zipper so the slider is 2 THE ZIPPER TEETH. Topstitch through all layers ⁄8 inch from the at the wrist-strap end of the wristlet when it’s closed. With right sides zipper teeth. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the other zipper side and wristlet top together and the zipper tape on top, sew with a regular presser foot, edge. 3 ⁄8 inch from the zipper teeth. Zipper

FOLD THE WRISTLET RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. 3 Align the panel seams and the edges. Clip or pin within the seam 1 allowance. Open the zipper. Sew the side seams with a ⁄2-inch seam allowance. Sew through the zipper tape ends on the closed zipper end, and up to the zipper teeth on the open zipper end.

CENTER PANEL (WS)

Sew the wristlet’s side seams with 1 Fold ⁄2 a -inch seam Stitch perpendicular to the allowance. side seam. Sew this seam twice for strength. “BOX” THE WRISTLET’S CORNERS 4 TO GIVE IT A FLAT BASE. Pinch a

bottom corner into a triangle with the side seam 1 1⁄2 inches at center. Lay the triangle fl at, and with a ruler perpendicular to the side seam, mark a line at the 1 ⁄2 point where there is 1 -inches of material on either Seam allowances side of the side seam. Clip the folded corner in place, then stitch along the line perpendicular to the side Side seam seam. Pivot and stitch the seam again. Repeat for the other wristlet corner. Trim the triangle corners, Trim the corner 3 3 leaving a ⁄8-inch seam allowance. Leave the wristlet ⁄8 inch from the double seam. wrong side out as you sew the interior. 1 1⁄2 inches

WINTER 2012 61

Finish the bag

The lining is a single piece; it wraps from top to top like the wristlet’s exterior panels. Each side of the lining has a two–section interior pocket for a total of four pocket sections to stash your keys, makeup, etc. With the lining sewn, it’s a cinch to sew it to the wristlet and turn it within.

seam Fold interior pocket (rs) Binding Binding seam

interior Pocket interior Pocket (ws) (rs)

seam/fold A B

Place the interior Po cket Pi eces Bind the Pocket toP. Choose a wrong side for the pocket. Align the 1 right sides together and edges 2 right side of the 2-inch-wide silk dupioni binding to the top edge of the pocket’s 3 3 aligned. Sew the bottom edge with a ⁄8-inch seam wrong side. Sew on the binding with a ⁄8-inch seam allowance (A). Press as sewn. Fold allowance. Press as sewn, then press the seam allowances the binding up and over the pocket top to the right side. Fold the binding’s raw edge open. Fold the pocket pieces wrong sides together along the under to meet the pocket’s top edge (B). Then wrap the binding over the pocket top’s 1 1 seam. Press. Repeat for the other interior pocket pieces. raw edges and topstitch through all layers ⁄16 inch to ⁄8 inch from the inner fold. Mark a 1 stitching line, perpendicular to the binding, about ⁄3 of the way from one pocket end. 1 2 inches Foldline 1⁄2 inches slipstitch the layer the lining Pi eces. lining to the 3 With right sides up, place the lining zipper tape. on top of the muslin interlining and align the edges. Pin around the edges through both layers to prevent shifting. 1 Pin an interior pocket to the lining, 1⁄2 wristlet inches from a lining’s short end. Pin the stitching interior path other interior pocket 2 inches from the (rs) Zipper tape opposite lining end. Orient the pockets so that the pocket binding is closest to lining the lining’s short ends. interior Binding Binding Pocket

sew on the interior Po ckets. Start Fold the lining in tu rn the lining right side 4 at a pocket bottom at the lining edge. Edgestitch 5 halF, right sides 6 out. Slip it over the wristlet’s wrong side. 1 1 ⁄8 inch within the pocket, pivoting 90 degrees at the together. Sew the side seams, Fold under the lining’s top edge about ⁄2 inch, or pocket division marking. Stitch to the pocket top, and and box the lining bottom as for the as needed, to cover the zipper tape’s edge. Pin use a machine tack or satin stitch to finish to secure the wristlet exterior (see step 4, page 61). the lining fold to the zipper tape, then slipstitch pocket edge. Stitch back down to the pocket bottom, pivot it to secure. Turn the wristlet right side out. the work, and finish sewing the pocket bottom to the opposite lining edge. Repeat for the other pocket.

62 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Pass the to any outfit. fiperfect touch nishing envelope clutchforthe Make achicandroomy

classic envelope-style clutch dimension and depth to a Shaped gussets add Envelope Snappy Accessories WINTER WINTER 2012 63

supplies • Fabric > 2 leather skins, 2 square feet sleek, streamlined envelope clutch is the perfect accessory for any kind each (LeatherImpact of event. Today’s trend is for an oversized clutch, and this version is just .com, GlobalLeathers.com, big enough to carry comfortably and securely in the crook of your arm, TheLeatherGuy.org) 5 > ⁄8 Awithout being too large and cumbersome. Its single interior compartment offers yard light- to medium- weight fabric for lining ample carrying room. Gussets enable the bag to expand and contract as needed, • 2 yards piping so all your essentials will fit without distorting its shape. • 2 flexible kitchen chop- You can choose a variety of materials for this envelope clutch, including real ping mats (Walmart.com, BedBathAndBeyond.com), or and faux leather or upholstery weight fabrics. Use two or three bold, contrasting 5 ⁄8 yard craft-weight fusible hues for an on-trend, color-blocked effect, make the clutch in a single color, choose interfacing (JoAnn.com) different tones of the same hue, or combine materials with different textures. • Awl Optional piping can emphasize the color and textural variations, too. • Decorative turn-lock clasp with screw back (Tandy LeatherFactory.com) AnnA MAzur, a couture sewer, loves to design and make handbags with special details. • Glover’s/leather hand needle, size 5 or 7 1 • Glue dots or ⁄4-inch-wide double-sided tape Prepare the bag pieces • Leather sewing machine needle, size 14 An ordinary, flexible kitchen chopping mat between the outer fabric and lining gives • Office binder clips just the right amount of stiffness and a firm roll to the clutch body. You can easily • Screwdriver substitute a craft-weight fusible interfacing, such as Pellon Craft Fuse; however, the • Teflon or other nonstick presser foot result is not as stiff and resilient. Piping is optional; customize your own or use pur- • Thimble chased piping. There are eight pattern pieces (find the pattern on page 93). • Utility knife

Cut the b Ag pieCe s. pi pe the b Ag 1 Half-inch seam allowances 2 seCtiOns are included. (OptiOnAL). All diagonal Outer fabric/leather: Cut 1 each edges of the clutch base and the of upper front, base, and front front flap/upper back sections flap/upper back; cut 2 gussets can be piped. Trim the piping piping and side backs. to fit each edge. On the bag stiffener: Cut 1 each of upper section’s right side, align the 1 front, base, and front flap/upper piping with the seamline, ⁄2 inch FrOnt FLAp/ back; cut 2 side backs. Trim away from the bag section’s edge. upper bACk 1 the ⁄2-inch seam allowances from Temporarily affix the piping (rs) all stiffener pieces. with glue dots or double-sided Lining: Cut 1 bag body; cut 2 tape. With a zipper foot, stitch gussets. On heavier linings, trim the piping in place. bAse 1 (rs) ⁄8 inch off seam allowances.

Align the piping with the bag section’s seamline, and stitch in place.

64 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

upper front bAg sections (Ws) base front edge bottom edge Apply the stiffener. Stick glue 3 dots or double-sided tape onto each bag section’s wrong side (except the gussets). Press No piNs the stiffener pieces in place, making sure they stiffener Don’t use pins on leather. stick to the adhesive. Fold the seam allowance Instead, temporarily on the upper back edge, base front and back secure the bag sections edges, and upper front bottom edge to the to each other with glue wrong side over the stiffener pieces and adhere dots or double-sided upper back edge base back edge with tape or glue dots. Binder clips may be tape along the edges. necessary to hold the piped edges in place. Assemble the bag First, sew together the clutch sections, then attach the lining. A regular presser foot may stick to leather instead of gliding smoothly, so it’s helpful to use a nonstick presser foot. If a nonstick foot still catches on the leather bag sections, place a 1 piece of kitchen plastic wrap between the leather and the presser foot. Use ⁄2-inch-wide seam allowances throughout.

edgestitching edgestitching upper front section (rs)

front flAp/ side backs bAse upper bAck (rs) point overlaps (rs) bAse (rs) the notch (rs)

notch A edgestitching B C

Join the b Ag sections. With right sides up, lap the front flap/upper back section over 1 one side back section, matching the seamlines (A). From the right side, edgestitch through all layers. Repeat for the opposite side back section. Then, lap one piped edge of the base section over bAse bAck the side backs’ lower edges, with the point overlapping the upper back’s notch (B). Edgestitch in place. point Finally, lap the remaining piped edge of the base section over the upper front section, and edgestitch in place (C). rs

toggle plate Add the cl Asp toggle. Transfer prong 2 the toggle placement mark from the clutch pattern onto the base section’s front point. Center slits for LOG ON prongs For instructions on making the toggle plate over the marking, and press the prongs into the surface to make an impression. bAse front custom piping to match Cut slits and insert the toggle plate’s prongs point your clutch, log on to from the right side. On the wrong side, apply the ThreadsMagazine.com. toggle’s backing plate. Use pliers to bend the prongs inward.

ContInUed >>>

winTer 2012 65

66 1 seam allowance. allowancetoward the lining. Then,the to the lining, understitch securingit Gussets can be tricky to sew,tricky Gussets canbe this clutch’s but gussetsare specificallydesignedfor easy sewing andaclean, attractive finish. Sew and insert the gussets sides together.sides the gusset,inside right lining the gusset Nest sewstylish lining to the gusset at the top edge.the the layers at Open the gusset to andpressthe seam lining ATTACH LINING. THE

CLUTCH LINING GUSSET LINING GUSSET LINING

GUSSET LINING (RS) GUSSET LINING ◾ SewStylish.com GUSSET LINING (WS) GUSSET LINING (WS) (WS) Leave unsewn forturning. Understitching Opening for Withtogether, sides right the gusset sew turning GUSSET (RS) stitched to gusset stitched Gusset lining Gusset Opening edges folded under LINED GUSSET LINED Clasp end (RS) Clip Stitch. 2 the lower edges to formthe darts,the lower edges andstitch Gusset lining dart pinned liningdart Gusset Fold inhalflengthwise, section eachgusset together. sides right Align SEW THE LINING AND GUSSETDARTS AND SEW SEPARATELY. LINING THE Stitch. 3 adhesive tape or glue dots to stick the foldedtogether.to stick edges adhesivetape orgluedots pressthe opening’s seamallowances, andusedouble-sided throughthe opening. Fold sideout the bagright underand one longedge unsewn.the claspend’s Clip innercorners. Turn edges, onelongedge,the upperfront’s and top edge, leaving 3 and close it with double-sided tape orgluedots. with double-sided and closeit sideout,right foldthe opening’s under edges, Leave anopeningforturning. Turn the gusset gusset,the liningandexteriortogether. stitching top edge, one Beginning at sewaroundthe together withsmallbinderclips.Clip alledges top seamallowancethe down,toward the dart. together,sides seams. matchingthe dart Fold CLUTCH BODY (RS) LINE CLUTCHTHE LINE BODY. and lining right sides together, sides and liningright the front fl sewalong ap Foldthe gusset, lininginto the gusset right FINISH GUSSETLINING. THE FINISH GUSSET LINING GUSSET LINING (RS) with glue dots or double-sided tape.with gluedotsordouble-sided the opening’sClose folded edges 1 ⁄ GUSSET 2 inchfromthe raw edge. (RS) Withthe bagexterior

held by Gusset Gusset binder dart dart clip

PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL. ILLUSTRATION: KAT RIEHLE. STYLING CREDITS: DRESS—JUICY COUTURE (LORDANDTAYLOR.COM), BRACELET—STYLIST’S OWN, RING—KENNETH COLE (MACYS.COM)

4 the wrong side.the gusset’s Align top front edge small binder clips to securethem forsmall binderclips stitching. body aroundthe gusset, together. andpressthe edges Use the bagfront’stop edge, wrongtogether. sides the bag’s Cup socket platesthe clutchflap. on clasp’stoggle the remainstothat finishinstalling is All Finish with the clasp in onedirection,the other.then hand. fi Sew aroundthe gusset rst the clutchbodybyto gussets On aleather bag,the slipstitch THE BAG.THE TEMPORARILY GUSSETS ADHERE THE TO

Awl Place glue dots along the gusset’s Placegluedotsalong edges on Clasp bottom socket plate Screw hole Glover’s needle socket plate Clasp top Clasp 1 ⁄ 2 inchbelow Slipstitches Needle Gusset (RS) 2 packing foamthe fl between the bottomplate. ap undersideand the socket platesIf seemloose, ascrap of leather of orabit insert the flap’s underside. the holesandscrewthe plates Align inplace. 1 then cut the toggle opening. toggle the then cut the flscrewthough holes ap andliningwithanawl, toggle.the opening forthe an outlineof Piercethe platetemplate, asa the screw mark holesanddraw PLACEMENT. CUT AND PLATEMARK SOCKET THE clasp’stop platethe fl on ap’sthe bottomplate sideand on right INSTALL PLATES. SOCKET CLASP THE Thread Dart Clutch Flap Using the clasp’s Using bottomsocket Clutch Front (WS) (RS) 5 to the folds.to place by machine, stitchingclose bag isfabric,the gussetsin sew direction,the other.then in Ifyour aroundthe gusset, fi inone rst through bothfolded edges. Sew needle. Take smallslipstitches in placewithaglover’s orleather stage,the gussets sohand-sew finot underapresserthis t foot at PLACE. SEW GUSSETSTHE IN all of yourall of necessities. expand andcontractto fi t the clutch The gussetslet all of yourall of necessities. expand andcontractto fi t the clutch The gussetslet Aleather bagmay Place the Place WINTER WINTER 2012 67

Snappy Accessories 68 accessories. hair into instant embellishments Turn purchased Barrettes sewstylish

Appliqué ◾ SewStylish.com coiffure coiffure couture Four ways to get

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal B si your iron. the clipback, themotif,to the backing insert andfuse clipandall, with your haircolor from anonravelingto fabric.the backing two slitsin cut MJ fit thebendablehairclip theback.fit for you’ll useon they because Theseclipsare perfect gift. Here are four waysthis speedyproject. to enjoy and glue the layersand glue overtogether right the hairclip. You canalsowhipstitcharoundthe are lightweight, conform yourthe shapeof to head, andcanbesewn orglued. Astable project forproject allages, andyou canmakethe clipsinany styleyou want for awonderful to makehair clipedge sure everything issecure. Then you’re readyto go. This isaneasy is senior technical editor at th technical editorat issenior Neukam Judith fabric backing can be cut to fit the medallion back to hold theclip; to hold themedallionback clip, aslit for cut to fit fabric backingcanbecut and it’s done. forperfectly the clip. holding throughthe slits,the clipinplace slide Just comes workthat department. withafelt it backingandslitsalready cut Zip Clip: Zip lver st trim.com. you can see yourthrough hair it, matchesthat a backing so cut They areto make easy from asew-ontrim orfabric medallionpurchased a at store.the size asilver of Chooseembellishments dollar, about whichisagood arrettes fun. of are alot They cankeep your hairundercontrol up. ordress it

this zipper-tape flower was purchased ready-made in a craft uds: this square motifisahot-fix studappliquéfrom the precut backing.the precut the clipintoslide fusible appliqués. these to backing add afabric reads. tu e l the back of a small hair clip to the wrongto side, asmallhairclip the backof andit’s readyto wear. making department,these leather blossomsmake easy barrettes. sew Just fabric orleather backingwithslitsforthe clip, usingglueorfusibleweb. readyto attachthe clip. the backingorattachto a eitherhand-stitchit lovely hairclips andlookgood worn inmultiples. the backisfinishedand ather Buds: rquoise Wheels: Fromthe Jo-annFabric andcraft store jewelry- these medallionsfrom MJtrim.com make to hold the clip.to hold backing inplace Glue aleather • Permanent adhesive, such • Hand-sewing needle • Bendable hair clips • Medallions in a variety of supplies Adhesives.com) as Fabri-Tac stores or drugstores) MJTrim.com) (JoAnn.com, Michaels.com, styles for different looks flower back. the to the clip hand-stitch (Beacon winter winter (craft 2012 69

Snappy Accessories

ollar necklaces are a quirky and fun jewelry trend showing Cup on the fall runways. These necklaces give the illusion of a shirt-collar neckline, but also are a fun and unexpected way to add sparkle. They require little material, making them easy to whip up. You can Three ideas probably fi nd the fabrics and for fabulous materials right in your stash, necklaces making them cost e≠ ec- tive, to boot. That means you can give more of your attention to the embellishments. Here, we’ll show you three creative ideas, but you can use any fabric for the base and then apply any embellishment you like— beads, pearls, feathers, trim, appliqués—the list goes on and on. Think of these ideas as an inspiration springboard, and create a look that’s all Bling your own. Make one for your sister, your girlfriends, and for yourself, of course!

DEANA TIERNEY MAY is editor of Threads. around the

Create a one-of-a-kind collar necklace with a little fabric and interesting buttons, chain link trim, or other embellishments.

70 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com Collar

Create the necklace base Supplies Start by creating the necklace base out of your chosen fabric. Once the base is done, you All versions: 1 • ⁄2 yard fashion fabric (we can apply any embellishment you like. used faux leather, denim, and linen) • Hook-and-eye closure • Matching thread Optional : • Interfacing for lightweight fabrics Gold & Denim: • 1 yard chain trim (JoAnn .com, MJTrim.com) Simply Studded: • Stud-setting tool, such as Cut out the pattern. You can use a collar from Sew the layer S together. The Bedazzler or Stone Styler (JoAnn.com) 1 any shirt pattern to create the necklace base. Or, if you 2 With right sides together, sew the two 1 like the rounded collar style shown, simply copy the pattern fashion fabric pieces together using a ⁄2-inch- • Studs (JoAnn.com) on page 94. Cut two from fashion fabric. If you are using a wide seam allowance. Leave a 2-inch opening All Buttoned Up: lightweight fabric, cut one from fusible interfacing and apply for turning along the neck edge. Press the seam • Buttons it to the wrong side of the top fashion fabric layer to reinforce flat, then press the seam allowance open. Trim • Glover/leather hand- 1 the fabric. This is especially important if you plan to apply a the seam allowance to ⁄4 inch, and clip into the sewing needle (Dritz.com, heavily-encrusted embellishment. seam allowance at regular intervals along the eLeatherSupply.com) curved edges.

the collar necklace inside edge folds under so you can adjust it to get a good fit.

topstitch around add a hook-and- the collar. eye closure.

tu rn the ba Se right Si de add a CloSu re. Try on the necklace 3 out. Then, press again and topstitch 4 and mark the hook-and-eye placement on 1 around the edges with a scant ⁄4-inch-wide seam the wrong side at the center front top edge with allowance. This will close the turning opening. removable chalk or a pin. Sew the eye to the Get creative by using a contrast or decorative underside at one end of the base; sew the hook thread for topstitching. to the other end, aligning it with the eye.

winter 2012 71

72 With yourthe ready, baseat that’s all to adornit. left is Apply the embellishment manufacturer’s directions. and applyby followingthe chalk orremovable marker, with the studplacement Mark Stone Styler(JoAnn.com). the Bedazzler, shown,the or tool,stud-setting suchas the studsusinga to apply centerends at front. It’s easy the collar’sstuds along short with asimplerow nailhead of richly colored linenadorned This necklacewas madeof SIMPLY STUDDED sewstylish

◾ SewStylish.com abundance to giveabundance aheavily embellishedlook. this versionThe buttonson were appliedin throughthe needle heavierhelps push fabrics). a leather orglover’s needle,thimble (which anda thread,the necklacebaseusingdoubledsewing necklace base.to the buttons Simplyhand-sew wereto anivory applied metallicfaux leather embellishments, inavariety sizes of andstyles, Gold buttonswithblackandwhite heart. at great way youthat to announce are asewer probably already have inyour stashand isa This versiontakes advantage buttons you of ALL BUTTONED UP easy as that.easy as rowstrim asyou of like. It’s as keep subtle, it oraddasmany denim necklacebase. You can chain, a the outeredge of to sewn,the alongbothsidesof pinned inplace,then hand- trim was gold chainlink of forthis project. Here, arow Grab jeans anoldpairof GOLD &DENIM

PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL Great

Travel88 Accessories Pet(-Shaped) 84 Pillow His and 81 Hers Scarves Easy PJs 78 Recycled 74 Sweater Mittens Recycled Sweater Mittens Gifts

Sweater p. 47 . p , s n e t t M i r e t a e w S d e l c y c e R

and Scarves, 81 1 8 8 p p , , s s e e v v r r a a c c S S s s r r e e H H d d n n a a s s i i H H WINTER 2012 WINTER 73

Great Gifts

Reinvent winter woolens into festive mittens for the whole family

Recycled Sweater

Search the closet or a secondhand store for patterned sweaters to sew into warm mittens. Mittens

74 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL H 94 and95). Finally, you’ll cut, layer,the mittens. andsew side,these mittensare your what familyto allwinter.turn andfriendswill until it’s felted. Then, you’ll choosefromthe provided pattern sizes (pages DragonThreads.com,the blogDragonThreadsOpenBook.BlogSpot.com. and either from the closet orpurchased secondhand,either fromthe closet then wash andit anddry LINDA LINDA the founderthe Dragon is TEUFEL of Threads publishingfirm, Felt and deconstruct the sweaters 3 1 until the texturethe until isfeltlike. with detergent. 1 be tighter or almost undefined.tighter oralmost be texture you want. They shouldshrinksome,thicker, be stitchesshould the knit and Tothe sweaters, felt throughthe washerthem anddryer run they until develop the 95) onto the fabric and cut it out. the fabric95) onto it andcut cut precisely indoublelayers).cut to accommodatepiece forthe left hands, andright onelayer andcut time (thefabric a to be at isgenerallythick too the fabricWhen cutting forthe mittens, there areto remember: acouplethings of the pattern Don’t forgetto flip Make the outside layers To makethe mittens, you’ll fi wool sweater, choosea100-percent rst WASH SWEATERS.THE wash water eachsweaterthe hottest in PIECE. PREPARE MITTEN’STHE BACK CONTINUE CONTINUE TO WASH DRY. AND Repeatthe sweater washing anddrying

patterns inwool forthe outsideandcozy polarfleece forthe in- ere’sthat’sthe gift for anyone perfect onyour list—cuteandeasy- to-make mittensfrom secondhand sweaters. With eye-catching Tracethe backpattern (pages 94and ontothe sweater fabric. Tracethe mittenback’s pattern Machine-

2 4 steam them asflsteam aspossible. at 2 and cut it out. it and cut thumb pattern (pagesthe fabric, 94and95)onto periodically emptying the lint trap. the lint periodically emptying DRY ONHIGH. SEAMLINES. CUT SWEATERSTHE APART ON THE THUMB PIECE. THUMB PREPARE PALM/LOWERTHE THUMB PATTERNTHUMB PALM/LOWER For ribbedsweaters, stretch and Dry the sweater Dry onhigh/hot, Tracethe palm/lower 3 fabric and cut it out. fabric it andcut (pagesthe contrasting 94and 95)onto sweater • • 2 felted sweaters Supplies • Template plastic or file • Matching thread • Chalk or tracing pencil folders (for pattern) 1 ⁄ 3 yard polar fleece PIECE. PREPARE UPPER THE THUMB PATTERN PIECE UPPER UPPER THUMB Tracethumb patternthe upper can create! the more mittens you The bigger the sweater, especially for XL sizes. look in the men’s section, for secondhand sweaters, When you’re shopping CONTINUED >>> CONTINUED GO BIG GO WINTER WINTER 2012 75

Pin and sew trim the 4 the thumb. 5 mitten edges. With right sides Trim the seam allowance 1 together, pin the lower to ⁄4 inch, and then clip Palm/ and upper thumb pieces uPPer diagonally into the corner. lower together, around the thumb thumb PieCe PieCe thumb and across the 3 palm. With a ⁄8-inch- Clip diagonally into wide seam allowance, the corner where you sew this seam, pivoting pivoted. Pivot as you sew at the cut-out notch. the thumb area.

after sewing, trim the seam allowance.

sew the mitten pieces 3 together with a ⁄8-inch seam allowance.

1 Pin and sew the mitten. Pin the thumb piece to the trim the seam allowanCe to ⁄4 inCh. Repeat for the 6 mitten back with right sides together, and sew around the outer edge 7 other mitten. Turn both outer mittens right side out. 3 with a ⁄8-inch-wide seam allowance. When you come to the thumb, fold it back and continue to stitch to the end, and then backstitch. Make the mitten lining Soft polar fleece lines the mittens. I add a label to the fleece on the inside of each pair of mittens.

Join the upper Palm/lower and lower thumb Pattern thumb pieces. mitten baCK lining

uPPer thumb Pattern if you’d like to add a label, it’s easiest to add it before sewing Palm/lower the lining pieces together. thumb PieCe

Fold the Po lar Fl eeCe i n add a label. If you want to add a label, Pin and sew the lining. With 1 halF. Trace the three pattern pieces 2 place it 3 inches from the wrist edge on the 3 right sides together, pin the lower and upper 1 (pages 94 and 95) onto the polar fleece and right side of one mitten back lining. Stitch it thumb pieces together. With a ⁄2-inch-wide seam cut the pieces. in place. allowance, sew around the thumb and across the palm, pivoting at the cut-out piece (see “Make the outside layers,” step 4, above).

76 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Trim the seam allowance to 1 ⁄4 inch.

Sew around the lining pieces, and then backstitch at the cu≠ end.

TRIM THE PALM/ PIN AND SEW THE LINING PIECES. Pin TRIM THE SEWN LINING. Trim the 1 4 LOWER THUMB EDGES. 5 the thumb piece to the mitten back lining piece, 6 seam allowance to ⁄4 inch; repeat for the other 1 Trim the seam allowance to ⁄4 right sides together, and sew around the curve, with a mitten lining. 1 inch, and then cut diagonally into ⁄2-inch-wide seam allowance. When you come to the the corner (see “Make the outside thumb, fold it back and continue to stitch to the end and layers,” Step 5, on the facing page). then backstitch. Join the layers Insert the lining into the outer mitten, and zigzag the cuff opening to finish.

PREP THE LINING. Place Slide the lining, one lining on your hand, wrong wrong side out, 1 into the mitten. side out.

PLACE THE CORRESPONDING 2 MITTEN OVER THE LINING. Pin the layers together, about 3 inches from the edge. Repeat with the other mitten.

TRIM THE CUFF. To fi nish the wrist 1 3 edge, trim ⁄2 inch from the lining’s edge, Pin the cu≠ , and then being careful not to cut the outer mitten. stitch a zigzag edge.

SEW THE CUFF. Fold the 1 4 outer layer inside ⁄2 inch, pin in place, and then stitch with your machine’s widest zigzag stitch Make comfy mittens for everyone on your and a stitch length of 1.5 mm. Be list. You’ll fi nd three sure to catch the outer mitten, the pattern sizes on pages 94 and 95. lining, and the folded edge.

WINTER 2012 77

Great Gifts

Easy Lounge around in comfy, PJs custom pajama pants

78 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

et’s face it: Pajama pants are so comfortable it’s hard to change out of them in the morning—and, I’ll admit it, some Sundays, I Supplies don’t. They’re soft, cozy, and, in most cases, just get better with • 2 yards to 3 yards soft Lage (and multiple washings). Increasing your pajama pant wardrobe is 45-inch-wide woven fabric fun and simple when you follow the instructions here. Make some for 3 • 1 yard ⁄4-inch-wide yourself plus a few pairs for your friends and family! grosgrain ribbon

1 To make the pants, fi rst choose a size; the provided pattern on page 91 • ⁄2 yard 1-inch-wide elastic • Matching thread includes a range of hip/waist sizes for adults and adjustments for fi tting • Safety pin a child. Then choose a wonderfully soft fabric. Next, prep the fabric, cut, • Scrap of fusible interfacing and sew the pants. Finally, create a custom drawstring and elastic waist- band. You’ll be lounging in these PJs before you know it!

SARAH OPDAHL is a special projects editor for The Taunton Press.

ALL ABOUT COMFORT

Choose a soft, wearable fabric for the most comfortable pajama pants. The pants shown are made from a fl owy, linen ikat print and an ultrasoft navy cotton shirting.

Simple-sew PJs A multisize pattern (see page 91) makes it easy to sew pajama pants for everyone in the family. Unless otherwise 1 stated, use a ⁄2-inch-wide seam allowance. Because woven cotton fabrics tend to ravel, finish the seam allowances by zigzagging or serging the raw edges together.

Quick and simple, it’ll be a breeze to CHOOSE A SIZE. Select a size from the pattern sew a pair of these 1 (page 91) based on the hip (women), waist (men), or pajama pants for every member of waist and length (children) measurement. the family.

PREP THE FABRIC. Wash and dry your fabric 2 as you want to launder the fi nished garment. Press it, cut the fabric in half perpendicular to the selvage, and then lay the layers right sides together, not folded, making sure that the pattern is mirrored. CONTINUED >>>

WINTER 2012 79

Sew the inseam right sides together.

pin, then topstitch the pant hems. wS

wS align the edges of the crotch seam and sew.

Sew the pant legS. With right sides Sew the crotch Se am. Turn one h em the pant S. Fold up and press 1 1 3 together, align the inseams of one pant leg 4 leg right side out, and place it inside the 5 the hem edge ⁄4 inch, then again ⁄2 inch. Pin, and sew. Repeat for the other leg. other leg, with the raw edges of the crotch seam then topstitch along the inner fold. aligned and the inseams matched. Sew the crotch seam of the pants.

Sew buttonholes in the waistband casing to hold the drawstring/elastic.

pin, then topstitch the waistband casing.

Feed the drawstring through the waistband.

make buttonholeS in the Sew the waiSt band caSi ng. add the draw String. Cut the 1 caSi ng area. Centered at center front, Fold down the waist edge 1⁄2 inches and grosgrain ribbon in half, and sew a ribbon 6 7 8 SAAlSICA 1

⁄4 Je S fuse a 3-inch by 1-inch scrap of interfacing with press; press the raw edge under inch. Pin the length to each end of the elastic. Attach a safety :

1 ST its upper long edge parallel to and 1⁄2 inches casing in place, then topstitch along the pin to one end of the strip and, starting at one STylI

3 ,

below the raw waist edge. Stitch a ⁄4-inch-long inner fold. buttonhole, feed it through the waistband d AR vertical buttonhole on each side of the center- channel until the elastic is centered at the back 3 front seam, with the buttonhole’s top 1 ⁄4 inches of the pants. If desired, stitch in the ditch along An hoW

from the waist edge. Cut the buttonholes open. the center-back seam to anchor the drawstring Slo

so it doesn’t come out in the wash. Trim each ToS:

ribbon end diagonally to minimize fraying. Pho

80 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Great Gifts

Make him a simple, sophisticated scarf from chambray fabric and a decorative twill label. Then make one with lace trim for yourself. Hisand Hers Scarves Lightweight fabric and a Supplies little trim make a quick • 2 yards lightweight cotton fabric (makes 2 scarves) and fashionable accessory • Matching thread For him: ut the fi nishing touch on nearly any outfi t • 5 inches linen, hemp, or cotton twill tape with a lightweight scarf. Stylish for men Optional: and women, these scarves are quick to • Embroidery thread or a Psew and very a≠ ordable; the yardage yields two permanent fi ne-point scarves, one for you and one to give away. Start fabric marker with a fabric you love, and add a simple rustic For her: 1 • 5⁄4 yards white cotton twill-tape label for a masculine vibe or a lace lace trim border for a feminine look.

JULIETTE LANVERS sews in Salt Lake City, Utah. Check out her site, Chickpea-Studio.com.

WINTER 2012 81

82 twill-tape label. Youthe label, canhand-ormachine-embroider ink. withpermanent orsimplywriteonit ismadeinchambray,This menswear scarf traditional fabric. a shirting Fortouch, apersonalized applyasmall Minimalist & masculine 5 2 straight lines. with anattached guidehelpsyou sewperfectly creatingtwo parallel lines. note: apresser foot the outsideedge,to foldthen again close and topstitchthe inner to hemclose the scarf’s securethe stitching. 1 fabric rectangle. sewstylish the longedges. topstitch andedgestitch you would forthe finishedscarf. then, by 20-inch a72-inch cut Prewash dry and fabric. scarf the along a short end.along ashort topstitchthe label’s folded edges, beingsureto at the fabric’s longedges e h

tach label. the m longthe edges. ◾ SewStylish.com 1 ⁄ 4 inchandpress. Pin the label on the scarf’s right side right the scarf’s the labelon Pin double-fold the scarf’s right side.the scarf’s right attachto the label 3 sew inplaceandpressto finish. again sew the short edges.the short sew double-fold and e h fold and press the scarf’s short edges fold short andpressthe scarf’s launderas m shortthe edges. double- ply with permanent pen. ply withpermanent with embroidery orsim- that’sa label customized with Personalizethe scarf 1 ⁄ 4 inch. 4 short endsunder short the label with a permanent penasdesired.the labelwithapermanent decorative stitch. you canalsosimplywriteon and pressthelabel. cut, embroider, length of twill tape and press and tack the tape andpresstack twill and length of Pa Pre re re label. the 1 ⁄ 2 inch. embroider orapplya cut a5-inch cut

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal

5 at the start. at stitch. Leave anextra laceunsewn 2inchesof thread, anedge-joining foot, andazigzag usingmatchingtrim aroundthe scarf the lace Select narrow,Select lace for flat asubtlefinishorwider, gathered lace for more frills. this version,In trim cometogether for aginghamcheckandlace afresh look. Frilly & feminine 1 tangled or damaged. Cut a 72-inch by 20-inch fabrictangled ordamaged. by 20-inch rectangle. a72-inch Cut gathered corners. the Hand-sew PREP PREP MATERIALS.THE they’ll belaunderedthe future. in Washtrim inaprotectiveto keep fromthe bag getting laundry it in the center alongside, of in alignandsew ATTACH LACE THE TRIM. Finger-pressthe hem. the lace trim.the lace Align andattach

Prewash, dry, andpressthesamewaythe fabrictrim in and lace Starting 6 4 2 3 corner and start attaching the trim again attachingthe corner andstart thread.the turn Leaveto lace 3inchesof about fi corner,rst the stopandsecurethen cut and on the other side of the corner. the othersideof on folded edge. Pressthe hem. trim the fabricthe hemedges followtrim so line. adominant fabric’s linearpattern, andplanyour hemsaround it. Ifneeded, fi helpskeepthe lightweight fabricrst inplace.the Bemindfulof PREPARE LONGTHE EDGES. the scarf’s longedges the scarf’s matchingthread, the to the hemclose sew HEM HEM LONGTHE EDGES. CORNERS. TEMPORARILY SKIP THE HEM HEM SHORTTHE EDGES. steps 2 and 3 on the scarf’s short edges. short the scarf’s steps 2and3on leave excess lace. the cornerSkip and When you are 1 ⁄ 4 inch. Finger-pressingthe 1 ⁄ 2 inchfromthe With Repeat Double-fold andpress 1 ⁄ 2 inch 7 1 to the laceedge,to the laceends. joining the excess. Pivot away andzigzag fromthe scarf ⁄ 8 satisfithe gathers.ed with machine sewn. Keep sewinguntil you are tip andwherethe laceis the this between the corner’sto point attachthat tip. Continue the laceand the middleof at stitches starting 4 inch attachingthe lacearound allfour edges,trim FINISH LACE THE FINISH TRIM. At eachcorner, sewsmallgroups of HAND-GATHER CORNERS.THE with azigzag stitch. the lace ends Join a modernvibe. the sweetnesspers thelace for of tem- gingham chartreuse bright and aprettytrim. lace Here, from fabric of asimplerectangle This cute, feminine ismade scarf WINTER WINTER After 2012

83

Great Gifts Pet(-Shaped) Pillow

Sew a lifelike throw cushion in your pet’s image

Transform a digital photo of your pet and printable fabric sheets into an adorable keepsake.

84 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD, STYLIST: JESSICA SAAL the image from smearing. iron,only adry andironthe wrongto prevent on side the printed fabric needsironingtime, any at sheet use low fabric for opacity. waterproof, Printer inkisnot so if fabric andpil- underlaymentthe printed between sheet dark orbrightly colored, you mayto place awhite need your pet’s bodyislight-colored andyour pillow fabric is fabricstery makes agood fabric for apillow shell. If to ensurethe settingsare all printer correct. paperfirst the printer. in cartridge prints Doafew onplain test the page,on andmake surethere’s afresh color ink the image fits tation best that (landscapeorportrait) the desiredto size.the image the printing orien- Select excess inyour scenery pet’s photo. Enlarge orreduce Paint, AdobePhotoShop, awayto crop orsimilar) orcut Print and sew Use any photo-editing softwareUse any photo-editing (suchasMicrosoft Any medium-orheavyweight homedécor oruphol- • Fabric and upholstery pro- • Solid white fabric (optional • Matching thread • Loose fiberfi ll • Home décor fabric ( • Printable 8.5-by-11-inch Supplies to to .com, ShieldIndustries.com) tective spray half as much as pillow fabric underlayment), any weight; 2 yards for larger dogs) low; 1 yard for beagle-sized; .com, Dritz.com, Avery.com) sheets sew-on or iron-on fabric 3 ⁄ 4 yard for a cat-sized pil-

(JacquardProducts (Scotchgard 1 ⁄ 2 yard S scale images to fiscale images ontotheavailable t page area. Forthat’s pillow apet largerthan sheets areto sizedfi standard homeprinters,t image printing applications andmost defined,true-to-life colors. one fabric sheet, you’llto enlarge need (orrasterize)the photo usingsoftware, such and tail are tucked under or held close to the body.tail aretuckedto and underorheldclose acrispimage withclearly Select as Posteriza onseveral insections (Softonic.com) it andprint fabric sheets. The sec- aroundthe animal’s silhouette.takes onlyafewtransform It to simplesteps your pet lovers.pet pet’s photo into acutepillow,these custom cushionsmake and great gifts for other home computer.the printed fabric Stitchorfuse onto abackground fabric, andcut its shape. Usingprintable fabric sheets, you your aphotofrom of canprint your pet STEPHANI L. isanassociate Threads editorat MILLER . tions can then beassembledintotions canonelarge image. The pillow’s shapeisdeterminedby your pet’s bodyandposition, soit’s iflegs best You canmake pet-shaped pillows life-size, miniature, orlargerthan life. The fabric ometimes one of your pet just isn’t enough—you your just ometimes oneof want pet more Fido of orFlu≠y that won’tthat your shedfurorresist cuddles) by sewing aphoto-realistic pillow in to squeeze andsnuggle! You canmake your favorite adoppelganger (one pet 2 1 on afl workat surface, sideup. right Ironthe fabricsto remove allwrinklesandcreases.the pillowfabric Smooth fabric, ifrequired) severalthe animal’s incheslargerthan printed image. from the fabric sheet. Allow the sheet to rest so the edges relax.to restso fromthe fabric sheet.the sheet Allow beforeimage.to set the ink handling. Allow Then,the paperbacking peel sheets, useiron-on printable fabric sheetsforthe easeinassembling FABRIC SHEET. YOURPRINT PHOTO PET’S ONTO APRINTABLE rectangular pieces of the pillowfabricrectangular piecesof (andtheunderlayment oneof PREPARE PILLOWTHE FABRIC. Printed fabric sheet, backing removed For large images printed on several insections Cut two square or Cut WINTER WINTER 2012 85

rasterized image printed on four fabric sheets, fused to pillow fabric (rs) underlayment fabric sew with a straight stitch underlayment fabric. around the pet’s image.

pet-printed fabric A B

Apply the printed f Abric to the pillow f Abric. If the pet’s image is AttAch A cleAr presser foot 3 printed on several sheets: Starting with one image section, place the printed sheet right side up 4 to your sewing m Achine. atop the underlayment or pillow fabric, cover with a press cloth, then press with a dry iron on medium- Reduce the presser-foot pressure to its lowest high heat to fuse the layers (A). Continue assembling the rest of the image in the same way. Pin the setting. Use a short straight stitch to sew around fused printed sheet and underlayment fabric to the pillow fabric, right sides up. the animal’s printed image, through all fabric 1 For images printed on a single sew-on sheet: Place the printed fabric sheet atop the underlayment layers, ⁄4 inch outside the image’s perimeter. fabric, with one piece of the pillow fabric underneath, all right side up (B). Smooth all the layers together, working from the center of the pet-printed fabric toward the edges and pinning as you go.

chalk outline

trim away the excess fabric.

satin stitching

trim AwAy the excess fAbric sAtin-stitch the outline. Use cut the pillow f Abric. On the 1 5 sheet An d underlAyment 6 a short, medium-width zigzag to satin-stitch 7 pillow fabric, chalk an outline 1⁄2 inches to outside the stitching. Cut close the trimmed fabric edges to the pillow fabric. 2 inches outside the satin stitching, following to the stitching; take care not to cut the Alternatively, leave the raw edges exposed; they the animal’s body contours. If the pillow is large pillow fabric. will fray over time, adding texture. (Labrador-sized, for example), include additional space between the chalk line and the satin stitching (2 inches to 4 inches). Cut along the Print large Photos on fabric chalked line; this is the pillow front. Lay the If piecing together an image from several printed sheets doesn’t pillow front right side up over a second piece of appeal to you, use a custom fabric printing service, such as the pillow fabric, right side down, and cut the Spoonflower.com or FabricOnDemand.com to print large back piece in the same shape as the pillow front. photos directly onto fabric yardage.

86 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Pillow front (WS)

Sew the pillow front to the back, right sides together.

Unstitched opening Pressed seam allowance for turning

SEW THE PILLOW SHELL. Pin the pillow front and back, right TURN THE PILLOW SHELL RIGHT SIDE OUT 1 8 sides together. Using a ⁄2-inch seam allowance, sew them together, 9 THROUGH THE OPENING. Smooth the seams and make sure leaving a 4-inch to 5- inch opening along the pillow’s bottom for turning small corners, such as ears, are fully turned. Press the opening’s 1 and stu≤ ng. Clip and notch the seam allowances along the curves. edges under ⁄2 inch.

Loose fi berfi ll

Use safety pins to hold the pillow opening closed while stitching.

Stu≠ the pillow body with fi berfi ll.

STUFF THE PILLOW SHELL. Use loose fi berfi ll, HAND-SEW THE OPENING CLOSED. Safety-pin the 10 and stu≠ the pillow fi rmly. Make sure all small corners are 11 folded edges together, then use a slipstitch or whipstitch to sew completely fi lled. the opening closed.

ARTISTIC EFFECTS Water-repellent fabric/upholstery With the right photo-editing software, you can get creative with protector your pet-shaped pillow; you’re not limited to creating a photo- realistic image. Apply a variety of e≠ ects: black-and-white sketch, inverted colors, impressionist painting, watercolor, abstract, oil-paint impasto (shown), pointillist (small dots and brush PROTECT THE strokes)—there are so many possibilities. 12 PILLOW. Spray a water and stain repellent on the pillow front and back to prevent the image from smearing and help keep the pillow clean. Follow the product directions.

WINTER 2012 87

Great Gifts Travel Accessories Pack in style with these cute lingerie and shoe bags

Travel smart with simple bags that keep undergarments in one place and shoes in another.

88 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Photos: sloan howard, stylist: Jessica saal. styling credits: shoes and lingerie—(target.com) E gifts for allyourtraveling friends. durableto care andeasy for. These lovely bagsareto sew andare acinch great canvas forthe exterior fabric andcotton muslinforthe lining, makesthese bags and right by yourand right othergarments,the shoebagfeatures while acenter divider will work,to heavyweight cotton choosingamid- fabric, but such asmatelassé or Juliette la Juliette to prevent the bottom of one shoe from dirtying the top of the other. top of to preventthe oneshoefromthe bottom of dirtying Any fabric Sew Sew a sweet lingerie bag and organized. horizontalto keep bar your delicates protected. When you’retraveling, not this baginadrawer place to keep things neat Twothe center, pockets in meet the lingerie bag. andaflapcloses While you’retraveling, drapethis bagover ahanger's opening,the seamallowances.trim and the edges,sew along leavingturning a3-inch asy-to-construct andprettyto lookat, asy-to-construct these fabric bagskeep undergar- ments organized andshoesprotected.to Practicalboot, two-pocket the lingerie bagcandrape conveniently over ahanger, keeping clothesclean sews in Salt Lakenvers sewsinSalt City, Utah. Chickpea-Studio.com.

dinner plate,the flapedge.to shape use aroundedtemplate, suchasa 3-inch turning 3-inch opening 2 sides together.sides the bagflap. Pin around thebagperimeter, right edge.the marked along line.short cut this rounded edge is plate, orotherroundedtemplate, draw acurved linealongone 3 1 fabrics 11inchesby 43inches. right sideout,right andpress well. curved edge seamallowance. turnthe fabric on one long side.the the corners trim clip and allowance, leavingturning opening a3-inch the bagedges witha you plan to launder them in the future.them in youto laundertheexteriorthe lining plan and cut Pa Pre shaPe the exterior andliningfabrics. Usingaprotractor, adinner the lining fabrics. lining the at tach exteriorthe and re re fabrics.the P. fla the 3 ⁄ 8 -inch-wide seam withtogether, sides right align sewaround Prewashthe fabricsthe sameway in • Dinner plate , protractor, or Optional : • Water- or air-soluble fabric • Ruler • Polyester thread • 1 • 1 Both versions: supplies marker other rounded template as matelassé or canvas bottom-weight fabric, such 1 1 ⁄ ⁄ 2 2 yards muslin yards home décor or the lining. exterior fabric to before attaching the design to the flap center designer look. Add your letters for a personalized a motif or monogram bags as gifts? embroider Are you giving these Embroid Add con wint Ti nue Er Er Ery 2012 D >>> 89

Top-and edgestitch the pocket sides.

Fold the pockets, 9 inches and trim the edges.

1 FOLD THE POCKETS. With the lining side up, fold up the straight SEW THE EDGES. Topstitch along the pocket sides with a ⁄4-inch 1 4 short edge 9 inches. Fold down the rounded short edge approximately 5 seam allowance, leaving the fl ap free. Sew the seams a second time ⁄8 15 inches. You are making two equal, 9-inch-deep pockets and a fl ap. Pin inch from the edge, and press the seams. along the pocket sides without catching the fl ap. Make a stylish shoe bag The shoe bag is a variation on the lingerie bag. You’ll sew a larger pocket and split it to create a separate compartment for each shoe.

PREPARE THE FABRICS. Prewash the FOLLOW THE LINGERIE 1 fabrics in the same way you plan to launder 2 BAG steps 2 and 3 on page 89. them in the future. Cut the exterior and the lining fabrics 15 inches by 36 inches.

FOLD THE POCKET. Place the sewn FOLLOW THE LINGERIE BAG 3 piece on the table, lining side up. Fold over the 4 step 5, above. straight short edge 12 inches, and pin along the sides. The curved edge is the fl ap. 12 inches Fold and pin the shoe bag pocket edges.

MARK THE CENTER DIVIDER. With 5 a ruler, mark the middle of the pocket with a temporary pen to create two equal compartments. Pin all layers of the pocket in a few places, and sew Mark and sew the center divider. along the line.

90 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Patterns PErmission grantEd to copy for personal use. Patterns & Templates Use these templates and patterns for projects in this issue.

1 easy PJs, page 78 ⁄2 inches from the edge. Fold the casing 1 Enlarge 640 percent. Lengthen or shorten on the double lines Adjust crotch length here. as necessary.

Crotchline E D CBA A BC DE

UnisEx sizEs: A. 32-inch to 36-inch hip for women or To alter this pattern for children: waist for men 1. subtract the child’s hip or waist B. 36 to 40 inch hip/waist measurement, whichever is C. 40 to 44 inch hip/waist larger, from the pattern’s size a D. 44 to 47 inch hip/waist hip/waist measurement. E. 47 to 50 inch hip/waist 2. Fold the pant pattern vertically, parallel to the grainline. Fold out half the circumference difference (from step 1). this establishes the pants’ circumference.

Grainline 3. Have the child sit on a hard chair, and measure vertically from the seat to the waist. add 1 inch to this crotch depth measurement. shorten the pattern to make the distance between the upper edge and crotchline equal this 1 measurement plus 1⁄2 inches. 4. measure the child’s inseam. Adjust inseam length here. shorten the pattern where marked so the distance from the crotchline to the hem foldline equals this length.

LOG ON For a no-fail way to enlarge Hem allowance = 1 inch patterns, visit SewStylish.com.

PERMISSION GRANTED to copy for personal use. Patterns

GLAM WRISTLET, page 58 Enlarge 480 percent.

STRAP PANEL

1 SIDES 2⁄4 1 inches 3⁄2 inches x x INTERIOR POCKET 1 14⁄2 18 inches 5 inches x 12 inches inches Cut 4 of cotton. Cut 1 Cut 2 of faux of leather. faux leather. PANEL ENDS 2 inches x 7 inches Cut 2 from faux leather.

= 1 inch

LINING CENTER PANEL OPTIONAL CENTER PANEL COVER 12 inches x 18 inches 7 inches x 16 inches 3 Cut 1 of cotton. 6 ⁄4 inches Cut 1 each x 3 of muslin, lace, 15 ⁄4 inches and silk. Cut 1 of iron-on vinyl.

92 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

PErmission grantEd to copy for personal use. Pass the enveloPe, page 63 Enlarge 572 percent.

5 7 ⁄ 8 in. ClutCh Body lining Cut 1. 3 in. 13 in.

1 in.

1 17⁄4 in.

1 1 7 3⁄4 in. 7⁄4 in. 6 ⁄8 in. side BaCk

8 in. Cut 1. 7 ⁄ 7 1 5 ⁄ fRont flap/ 4 Base uppeR in. 4 in. 1 ⁄ uppeR BaCk 7 Cut 1. fRont 2 in. 1 ⁄ Cut 1. 7 Cut 1.

in. 3 ⁄8

13 in. 1 3 in. Clasp socket Clasp toggle placement 1 in. placement in. 13 in.

2 13 in. 1 7 1 ⁄ ⁄ in. 4 7 8 4 in. in. 1 ⁄ 1 ⁄ 6 7 side BaCk Cut 1. 1 5 7⁄4 in. 2 ⁄8 in. onson = 1 inch y br 1 ⁄8 in.

in. 7

16 in.

⁄ 2 left gusset

11 Right gusset ⁄

1 1

Cut 1 each of fabric 4 Cut 1 each of fabric

in. 11 16 16 and lining. ⁄ and lining. 7 ⁄ in. 11 all others, emIl all others, 1 lf I; Ia me ns: (p. 94, botom, and p. 95) Glor and p. botom, 94, (p. ns: Io Illustrat

Winter 2012 93

PERMISSION GRANTED to copy for personal use. Patterns

BLING AROUND THE COLLAR, page 70 Enlarge 235 percent. = 1 inch

COLLAR NECKLACE

in. 4 Cut 2 on fold. ⁄ 3

4

Fold

CHILDREN’S RECYCLED SWEATER MITTENS, page 74 Enlarge 400 percent. CHILDREN’S MITTEN

UPPER THUMB Cut 2 each of fabric and lining.

PALM/LOWER THUMB Cut 2 each of fabric and lining. = 1 inch

MITTEN BACK Cut 2 each of fabric and lining. 1 8 ⁄4 in. in. 4 ⁄ 1 4

94 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

Permission granted to copy for personal use. in.

Upper thUmb 8 ⁄ 5 3 in. cut 2 each of fabric and lining. 2

6 9 ⁄16 in.

5 9 ⁄16 in. in. in. 8 4 ⁄ 5 ⁄ 1 5 5

15 5 ⁄16 in. women’s or men’s recycled sweater mittens, page 74 11 5 ⁄16 in. enlarge 200 percent.

women’s mitten

men’s mitten

1 8 ⁄16 in.

4 8 ⁄16 in. in. 8 ⁄ 3 in. 5 2 palm/lower thUmb cut 2 each of fabric and lining. in. in. 4 8 ⁄ ⁄ 1 5 5 5 1 = 1 inch 5 ⁄8 in.

7 5 ⁄16 in. in. in. 4 mitten back 8 ⁄ ⁄ 5 1 5 cut 2 each of fabric and lining. 5

3 10 ⁄4 in.

1 11 ⁄16 in.

Winter 2012 95

Common Terms Terms & Techniques A glossary of terms you’ll need to know for the projects featured in this issue

Appliqué: A surface embellishment that is Gusset: A small panel of fabric inserted into a Seam allowance (SA): The margin of fabric made by stitching fabric, trim, or lace designs garment's seam to permit greater movement, between the cutting line and the seamline. In 5 to another fabric. or in a handbag to create a wider opening. home sewing, the width is conventionally ⁄8 1 inch, but it may be as narrow as ⁄4 inch or as Backstitch: A strong hand-worked stitch that Hem: A garment’s fi nished lower edge. doubles back on the previous stitch. wide as 1 inch. Inseam: The vertical seam that extends from Baste: To temporarily join fabric pieces with Selvage: The tightly woven edge that runs the pant crotch to the hem. large, easily removable stitches. parallel to the fabric’s lengthwise grain. Lapped seam: A seam in which one layer of Beeswax: A wax made by bees used to smooth Stabilizer: An underlayer used to fabric is placed on top of the other, both with and strengthen thread for hand sewing. support a fabric for machine sewing; stabilizers right sides up, and the layers joined, usually may be removed or left in after stitching. Bias: Any line diagonal to the crosswise and with topstitching. lengthwise grains. “True bias” is on a 45-degree Stitch in the ditch: Stitching inside the “valley” Lining: A layer of fabric used to hide, protect, angle to the selvage, and allows for the most or “groove” of an existing seam, usually on a and beautify the interior of a garment or bag. stretch in wovens. garment's right side. Binding: Fabric strip used to cover or enclose Muslin: Unbleached cotton fabric. Also a term Straight stitch: The most basic machine stitch, raw edges. used by designers to describe a test garment it produces a single row of straight, even used to check fi t and style. Casing: A folded and stitched channel that stitches. holds elastic, cording, or boning. Overlay: A layer of fabric on top of another Sunburst pleat: A bias-grain knife pleat that Center front (CF): The true vertical center on a layer of fabric. is narrower at the top than at the bottom, garment’s front. Pattern drafting: Drawing a paper pattern creating a fl are e≠ ect. Center back (CB): The true vertical center on a by positioning lines, points, and curves in a Swatch: A fabric sample. garment’s back. prescribed manner. Tack: To anchor two or more fabric layers Dart: A folded and stitched wedge-shaped Pin-fi t: To take in a garment by temporarily together with a few hand or machine stitches. tuck that shapes a garment over curves. On a pinning the seams, darts, or tucks to the pattern, a dart point is marked by a dot. Dart right size. Thread tracing: A technique for transferring legs are the lines that come to a stop at the markings from a pattern to fabric using hand- Piping: A decorative trim, used in garment and pattern edge and indicate stitching. basted stitches. home décor sewing, that consists of a length Ease: 1. (n.) The di≠ erence between body of cording either covered in fabric or attached Topstitching: Stitches sewn on a garment’s measurements and garment measurements. to a strip of fabric tape. Piping is inserted into a right side. Also defi ned as the amount of space in a seam. Also called “welting.” garment that allows comfortable movement. Trim: 1. (n.) Decorative braid, ribbon, etc., used for 2. (v.) To slightly gather a longer fabric piece to Raw edge: Fabric’s unfi nished cut edge. embellishment. 2. (v.) To cut away excess fabric. fi t a shorter one. Right side (RS): The outside of a garment or the Underlay: A layer of fabric underneath another Finger-press: To fl atten a seam temporarily face side of fabric. layer of fabric. using the heat from your fi ngers. Rotary cutter: A circular cutting blade with a Whipstitching: Sewing with overcast stitches, French curve: A drafting tool used as a guide to handle, used with a cutting mat. as in fi nishing a fabric edge or binding two draw smooth curves. pieces of fabric together with a spiraling stitch. Scallops: A series of curves or shell-like Gather: To draw up a length of fabric by segments forming an ornamental edge. Wrong side (WS): The inside of a garment or pulling it into a series of puckers along a line of the back side of fabric. stitching. Seam: Where two fabric pieces are sewn Grosgrain ribbon: Characterized by woven together. The “seamline” is the line that you Zigzag stitch: A Z-shaped machine stitch, 5 ridges, a type of ribbon that’s very stable and sew along, typically ⁄8 inch from the outermost sometimes used to fi nish raw edges or to sew comes in many widths. edge of the pattern piece. stretch seams.

96 sewstylish ◾ SewStylish.com

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Prices are subject to change. © 2012 The Taunton Press Last Page Furoshiki Japanese packaging is the perfect wrapping for gifts

pread a beautiful square of fabric, position a thoughtful gift in its center, fold the edges to Scradle the o≠ ering, and gather the corners into an abundant knot. This is the Japanese furoshiki (foo-roe-shkee). The eco-friendly gift wrap keeps on giving, because the recipient can use the wrap again. You can use a scarf or fabric. The fabric can have raw edges or edges fi nished with a hem of any variety. The squares can be large or small, depend- ing on the contents planned. There are many ways to tie the furoshiki based on what you’re wrapping, but the one USE A SCARF OR FABRIC FOLD OPPOSING CORNERS THREE TIMES THE SIZE OF THE TOWARD THE CONTENTS. Wrap shown is easy and suits many items. 1 2 CONTENTS. Place the item diagonally in the them to fi t. JUDITH NEUKAM is senior middle of the scarf. technical editor at Threads.

BRING THE REMAINING CORNERS 3 TOGETHER, AND KNOT THEM OVER THE PACKAGE. Form a square knot by tying the ends right over left, then left over right. The small package, shown at left, contains a CD, and the larger one, above, holds a book. PHOTOS: SLOAN HOWARD. ILLUSTRATIONS: EMILY BRONSON EMILY ILLUSTRATIONS: HOWARD. SLOAN PHOTOS:

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© 2012 The Taunton Press QUICK STUFF TO Sew Make cozy mittens for the whole family from wool sweaters and fleece lining. Just follow the easy tutorial on page 74.

is is just one of the fabulous, fast, and easy projects you’ll nd in this issue of Quick Stu to Sew. See inside for more beautiful garments, chic accessories, and lovely home décor items for everyone on your gift-giving list.