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Dressmaking As a Trade for Women in Massachusetts

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U. S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS ROYAL MEEKER, Commissioner BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES ) J WHOLE 1 Q 1 BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS) * * * \NUMBER lZJj WOMEN IN INDUSTRY SERIES: NO. 9 DRESSMAKING AS A TRADE FOR WOMEN IN MASSACHUSETTS MAY ALLINSON, Ph. D. SEPTEMBER, 1916 WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1916 Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis ADDITIONAL COPIES OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE PROCURED FROM THE SUPERINTENDENT OP DOCUMENTS GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON, D. C. AT 20 CENTS P E R C O PY Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis CONTENTS. Page. Introduction........................................................................................................ 5 .9 Chapter I.—Evolution of the trade in the United States................................... 1 1 -2 1 Chapter II.—The dressmaking trade of to-day..................................., ............. 23-52 1. The family dressmaker..................................................... 29 2. The journeyman dressmaker.............................................. 29,30 3. The private dressmaker..................................................... 31-33 4. The dressmaker of the transition stage............................. 33-37 5. Thedressmakerof the shopof specialized workers............37-42 6 . The commercial dressmaker............................................. 42-49 7. The manufacturing dressmaker......................................... 49-52 Chapter III.—Industrial conditions in the trade...............................................53-81 Business administration........................................................53,54 The problem of capital......................................................... 54-61 The problem of competition................................................. 61-64 The labor force................................................. ................... 64-81 Chapter IV .—Irregularity of employment........................................................ 83-111 The seasons............................................................................ 83-93 The workers' season............................................................. 93-106 Instability of the labor force.............................................. 106-111 Chapter V.—Overtime in the dressmaking trade............................................ 113-126 Chapter V I.—Wages and earnings in Boston.................................................. 127-146 Chapter VII.—Teaching the trade..................................................................147-159 Chapter VIII.—Summary and outlook...................................... ................... 161-165 Bibliography.................................................................................................... 167-175 3 Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Tliis study was begun in the fall of 1909 by the author as a fellow in the Department of Research of the Women’s Educational and Industrial Union of Boston in cooperation with the Boston Trade School for Girls and was completed by her while assistant and associate director of the department. It has been accepted as a thesis by the faculty of political science of Columbia University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of doctor of philosophy. The work was done under the general direction of Dr. Susan M. Kingsbury, director of the Department of Research. 4 Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis BULLETIN OF THE U. S. BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS. w hole no. las. WASHINGTON. September, i9ie. DRESSMAKING AS A TRADE FOR WOMEN IN MASSACHUSETTS. BY MAT ALLINSON, PH. D. INTRODUCTION. The occupation of dressmaker ranked third in the United States in 1900 in the number of women employed, 338,144 women 16 years of age and over being engaged in it.* Only two occupations—that of servant and waitress and that of agricultural laborer—surpassed it in the number of women employed, but in none did women form a larger proportion of the total employees. Because of the numbers the trade employs, because it is woman’s traditional occupation, and because it provides opportunities for development, training for the dressmaking trade has held a large and a logical place in the curriculum of voca­ tional schools for girls. The growth of the movement for industrial education and for vocational guidance has called for a thorough knowledge of the various industries. Especially is this important in the case of those trades which hare been recognized as in some degree desirable, and for which the trade schools have attempted to prepare young workers. Almost two-thirds (62 per cent) of the girls who went out from the three Massachusetts trade schools in 1914 had been trained for the dressmaking trade. Dressmaking is a difficult trade subject for the casual and superfi­ cial observer to grasp, because of the variety of types of shops and methods of production which it presents. Dressmakers who go out by the day, small shops, large shops, factories of various types, give the superficial impression that every shop is different. Primitive and highly developed systems exist side by side, yet careful study shows that all may be classified within some six groups, each having a char­ acteristic method of production. The student of census figures may be convinced that custom dressmaking is a declining trade and ques­ tion if educators are justified in training young workers for this occu­ pation. But in the development and growth of the large shop and the opportunity open to the day worker in the home, the investigator i Special Reports of the Census Office, 1900. Statistics of Women at Work, p . 70. A total of 344,794 women was reported for 1900 and 343,101 for 1910. See Thirteenth Census of United States, 1910. Occupa­ tion Statistics, p. 56. 5 Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 6 BULLETIN OF THE BUKEAU OF LABOR STATISTICS. discovers tendencies not shown by the census, since it has abandoned statistics of the hand trades. The seasonal fluctuations of dressmaking and the consequent irreg­ ularity of employment have been causes for worry and doubt to those intrusted with the direction of the young prospective worker. If, however, we study the returns of the United States census, we are able to find practically no industries which do not have slack seasons and times of pressure. Again, some of those trades which offer the greatest prospects are the most seasonal trades. Custom dressmaking and millinery, the most seasonal of all trades, show opportunities for self-development and financial advancement discovered in few other industries open to the woman of limited education. The question is not, then, “ Should girls avoid or should they go into these trades?” but rather, “ How can those features which complicate and hinder opportunity for advancement be met or eliminated?” “ It is impracticable to stop the fluctuations in demand,” wrote the Webbs in 1911. “ But here, also, it is not necessary that the fluctuations should be permitted to work havoc with the workers’ lives. * * * Though there is a slack season in nearly all trades, this occurs at different parts of the year. * * * The seasona alternations of overpressure and slackness to which so many workers are subjected, with such evil results, are due only to failures of adjust­ ment. Now, it is not suggested that there is any way by whioh the local and temporary supply of each particular kind of labor can be precisely adjusted to the local and temporary demand for it. But it is clear that if only we put a little more deliberate organization into the matter a great deal could be done to avert the worst of the calamities.” 1 Comparison with other industries shows that, whatever may be its disadvantages, and though undergoing a marked decline, dress­ making still remains one of the desirable occupations for women in the industrial world. A conference interested in the promotion of industrial education has defined a skilled occupation as one which meets three conditions: (1) Provision of a living wage for the worker; (2) a content which offers the possibility of differences in the quality of work turned out; (3) provision for promotion, through a series of progressive steps in the industry leading to something better.2 Dressmaking meets these tests fairly well. While no woman-employing indus­ try has been discovered in which the majority of workers earn a living wage, dressmaking ranks among the best in this respect. Since the fundamental and underlying principle of women’s dress is variety, the dressmaking trade is one of the least standardized in * The Prevention of Destitution, by Sidney and Beatrice Webb. London, 1911, p. 126. The Survey, V ol. X X X I , N o. 17 (1914), p. 496. Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis DRESSMAKING AS A TRADE FOB WOMEN IN MASSACHUSETTS. 7 process and product. Opportunity for promotion is unique in a cus­ tom trade where originality of thought and of design and artistic sense determine its very existence. Naturally few possess these qualities, which are not common to the masses, but increased opportunities for training would doubtless enable more to develop latent possibilities and to bridge the gap from the manual skilled processes to those requiring artistic ability. Dressmaking is distinctly a domestic
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