COMPUTERIZED EMBRIODERY MACHINES AND ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES Professor Colleen Muscha [email protected] College of Fine Arts—Theatre

PROJECT DISCRIPTION

In recreating the style of period garments for theatrical use, a costume designer and costume technicians are often challenged with the problem of fabricating intricate work for that costume. Embroidery is a handicraft technique of decorating fabric using a needle to apply a contrasting creating a or motif. The origins of this technique began around 3,000 BCE. Up to recent times this handicraft skill would be done by hand, taking a great deal of time to complete a finished product. In past decades, costume designers might choose to applique pieces of lace and to the garment to mimic the look of embroidery with various degrees of success. In the 19th century, industrialization brought versions of embroidery techniques to the factory mills. During the late 20th into the 21st century, this technology has been utilized by several domestic companies, which have combined computerization and to the mechanical sewing machine creating a model perfect for modern theatrical costume shops.

These computerized embroidery machines have been increasingly acquired by many professional and university costume shops. At national conferences and symposiums, the varied uses and creative techniques of operating the embroidery machine have been demonstrated and presented in panels, poster sessions and workshops by university peers and professionals. The quality and sophistication of the software and machine has improved rapidly over the last decade. There is more and more evidence that costume students will need to be accomplished at both operating embroidery machines and creating original designs using embroidery software.

After researching several types and brands of machines, Bernina offers quality machines that can handle the needs of a busy costume shop as well as enduring daily usage. Currently, the FSU Theatre costume shop has several of the basic Bernina models. These are sewing machines are mechanical, not computerized. Therefore, these are able to do the basic work load needed to construct garments. At the moment, we do not have any computerized sewing machine. For a MFA Costume Design Program, it is important to acquaint students with this technology. The machines that would be purchased would significant upgrade our workroom. These are the Bernina 790 Plus and the Bernina 590.

The 790 Plus has a wider range of capabilities, including a wider sewing bed that can accommodate larger embroidery patterns, which would be beneficial when embroidering costume pieces such as vest fronts. The 590 is a smaller machine that has many of the same qualities, but is not able to handle bigger projects. However, it would be ideal as an introductory machine for students who are not familiar with computerized machines and would also be able to handle smaller projects. Both of these machines are new products for the company. One major upgrade these machines have is that both use larger . The holds the bottom thread. This means that the machine can run longer without stopping to refill the bobbin. Additionally, the sewing speed of these machines can be as high as 1,000 stitches per minute!

Besides embroidery stitches, both of these models are regular sewing machines, enabling the stitcher to use regular construction techniques as well as specialty techniques that these computer machines offer. For example, these computer sewing machines can also set the size, width, space between and style of holes. This can be an incredible time saver in a shop, especially if a lot of men’s wear garments are being built.

The current software used for these machines is the Bernina Software 8. Though the machine comes with numerous patterns and alphabets, the software enables the user to create their own decorative patterns for garment pattern pieces. It also is used to manipulate stock embroidery images and helps to properly position them on the garment pieces.

These machines also utilize different styles of machine feet. These can help in various ways to efficiently move a project forward quickly. These include various hemming, , ruffling, cording and -tuck feet. Other additional accessories that would be needed are larger hoops to accommodate bigger embroidery patterns.

Lastly, an essential need for the project team would be an initial supplies of embroidery threads and stabilizers needed to practice the techniques and learn the machine capabilities.

IMPACT ON INSTRUCTION

The School of Theatre strives to provide our students with a competitive edge over other institutions by providing leading technologies in all fields of production. By giving them the tools, skills and experiences to enter their respective field with this knowledge, it will give our graduates an edge when entering the profession.

Though this technology will be mostly utilized by the costume program, all School of Theatre students (300 undergraduates and 45 graduate students) and production staff will benefit with the addition of the technology by working with and viewing the results of embroidery period costumes.

Graduate students in the MFA Costume Design Program currently are required to take Fabric Modification (Fab Mod) and Computer Rendering for Costume Design. In Fab Mod, students learn traditional techniques of manipulation of fabric and some traditional handicraft techniques. While in Computer Rendering, students learn various digital drawing programs. With the addition of the embroidery machine, both of these classes will be benefit from this technology. This software and design techniques we currently use in class will expand the creativity and skills of the students. Students will be able to digitally create and embroider fabrics of their own design, whether for a class project or School of Theatre production. This undoubtedly could be used for some of the costumes in the fall 2018 production of Shakespeare in Love. PROJECT PLAN

Once approved, initializing the project should take approximately three to four months to order, receive and install equipment, and receive initial training on equipment and accompanying software. The project team will consist of costume design and technology professors, costume shop staff and graduate costume students. The Bernina Connection offers free training sessions for purchasers of their machines, including several classes that would cover both basic operational use of the machine and specialty skill classes for the embroidery techniques.

The plan is to have the equipment ready for these sessions by the first week prior to fall classes. Each of the members of the costume team should be knowledgeable with the basics of the software and machines by the end of the fall semester 2018 and hopefully more proficient with the software and machines by the end of spring semester 2019.

RELATIONSHIP OF PROJECT TO OTHER UNIVERSITY ACTIVITIES AND HOW THESE WILL BE ENHANCED

With the wide range of productions that the School of Theatre presents each year, there should be a number of opportunities for this technology to be utilized. These productions reach a wide-ranging audience of students, faculty, staff and the Tallahassee community.

Once skilled in the use of the equipment, the project team could provide additional workshops and demonstrations of the equipment that might appeal to other units on campus such as dance, opera, art, and . We also can make presentations in conjunction with regional or national theatre technology symposiums, such as the United States Institute for Theatre Technology or Southeastern Theatre Conference. This technology opens new realms of opportunities for honors, graduate or post-graduate costume research in textile design.

COST OF ONGOING SUPPORT

The School of Theatre would provide ongoing support for maintenance and as part of the regular operating budget. Embroidery thread and stabilizer will be charged to the various students for personal class projects and to the show production budgets if used for costumes for a specific show. Currently, our Bernina machines are serviced locally through the Bernina Connection.  Note the excellent warranty that the Bernina Company provides. See Supporting Documents for more detailed information about the 790 Plus, the 590 and the Bernina Software 8.

PROJECT TEAM

Project leader: Professor Colleen Muscha, Director of the MFA Costume Design Program . Instructor for Fabric Modification and Costume Computer Rendering Associate Professor Martha H. Cooper—Costume Technologist Sarah Jahnke, FSU Costume Shop Manager Caitlin Yost, FSU Theatre Draper Graduate Costume Design Students

BUDGET AND EXPLANATION/JUSTIFICATION

The machines will be used in demonstration and practice sessions, along with any accessories. Accessory equipment and bobbins are interchangeable between these two machines. For the training sessions, an embroidery thread and stabilizer will be needed to train each person on the project team.

The software can be uploaded to one of the costume shop computers. Existing sewing tables can be used to house the new sewing machines. Fabric for practice sessions can be obtained from costume shop stock.

Bernina Connection will give an educational discount price for the machines and software.

Embroidery-Sewing Machines:

 Bernina 790 Plus Retail $12,499.00 Educational Discount Price $9,499.00  Bernina 590 Retail $ 7,499.00 Educational Discount Price $5,999.00 TOTAL $15,498.00 Embroidery Software:

Bernina Software 8 Retail $2,499.00 Educational Discount Price $1,299.00

Larger Machine Embroidery Hoops (Not included in purchase of the machines):

 Maxi Hoop (for the 790 Plus Machine) $437.95  Mega Hoop (fits both 790 Plus & 590) 208.95 TOTAL $646.90 Sewing Machine Feet (fits both 790 Plus and 590) Number Cost # 50 $175.95 Zig-zag Foot with Slide Sole for Leather # 52 67.95 3mm Zig-zag Hemmer Foot # 63 48.95 6mm Zig-zag Hemmer Foot # 66 42.95 8mm Lap Foot # 71 41.95 Circular Embroidery Attachment # 83 64.95 Binder Attachment # 88 249.95 Binder Attachment Foot # 95 33.95 Ruffler # 86 123.95 Edge Foot # 10C 45.95 Bulky /Braiding Foot (Beads/Ribbon) # 12C? 42.95 Extra Wide Foot # 16 45.95 Pin Tuck Foot # 31 32.95 Pin Tuck Foot # 32 29.95 Cording Foot # 22 41.95 TOTAL $1.090.25

Embroidery Machine Thread:

 50 (assorted colors) spools of Poly-Sheen Mettler Embroidery Thread @ $5.90 per spool $295.00

Stabilizers for Embroidery—One Ten-Yard Bolt of each:

-Away Poly Mesh $20.50  Tear-Away—Heavy 19.35  Tear-Away—Light 10.75  Wash-Away Aqua Mesh 26.95 TOTAL $77.55

COMBINE TOTAL $18,906.70