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The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies' Garments

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The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies' Garments ' jjw$m$- Mary'Ann's eiiume (Decoratii/ec4rtr Qoueftioru STERLING AND FRAN CINE CLAR1C ART INSTITUTE L1BRART - veIka .> #S vW f i,v%k r# 1 v r -1 Uo THE CUTTERS' PRACTICAL CUIDE TO THE CUTTING OF L^DIGS' GI^EQEPTS EMBRACING ill Ike few aid Ihpfi^I %t OF 1 (Ei^g class anti stgk trf Xabtcs #apmtf, Now being made in the best Tailoring Firms. ttaiiFated m\\ Eiap>ams ant figapa; llll I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I II I II I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I II I I I I I I -By W, •©. F. IKiiiciiit. I H I 1 I I I I I I I I I 1 I 1 I I I I I I 1 1 I 1 I I III I I 11 11 I I LOirnDonsr - PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE. W.C _^-T/:v^_^. PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED, 98 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C. \ fiMiskiFS fitful: The material changes in gentlemen's garments are so gradual and comparatively slight, that a good work on their production may continue to be of practical value for well nigh a generation. The case stands very differently with Ladies' Garments, which for change—very materially so in some cases—every season ; necessitating a new work their production every two, or at most, three years. Apart from this necessity in point of new styles and fashions, many inquiries have been made lately as to whether we had a work on Ladies' Garments by the Cutters' Practical Guide System, and if not, whether " we intended preparing such. The work we now introduce being based on the " Guide System, it is thus prepared to meet a two-fold want or demand—an instructor and guide to the production of all the new and popular styles in tailor-made garments ; and also the demand for such a work by the Practical Guide System. The work itself will bear testimony to its scope, and the way in which every current, as well as new style of Ladies' Tailor-made Garment is treated and illustrated. Here we have the systems for producing the garments, each illustrated by beautifully engraved diagrams ; and there is further, the finished garments, illustrated upon artistically en- graved figures. The work thus presents a completeness, which renders it an invaluable acquisition to the Ladies' cutter. Should the inexperienced or timid cutter hesitate to use his own productions by these systems, our arrangements for supplying Special Cut Patterns of any style of ladies' garment—if the style can be conveyed to us—at a very nominal price, will meet the difficulty, at the same time allow him to compare our pattern with his own production. We doubt not but this new and latest Work will fully sustain the character we have already attained by the Works now being published at the Tailor and Cutter Office. The John Williamson Company Limited. ZU&£^x& -ZTr^GTXV TO €lf f INCH The object we set before us in this work, is the some of the laws of science. They will often tell yon preparation of a Complete Instructor and (iuide in where the seams of their garments must be placed, and the production of all Ladies' Garments which may be they know the effect certain styles of ornamentation " classed as tailor-made," not only as regards the cut, will have on the body ; and woe to the reputation of the fit and the making, also all the new, the man leads in the direction and but embracing who them wrong ; the current and the popular styles, in all their different although we do not wish to impute that, with all ladies, classes and departments—an Instructor to the inex- dress is the one end and object of their life, yet they perienced, and a (iuide to the experienced cutter. study it, they read about it, they write about it, they While tailoring has been largely augmented during talk about it, they think about it, they attend public recent years by Ladies' Garments, this comparatively institutions to look at it, they work for it, aye, and new branch is capable of very considerable further often deny themselves the common necessaries of life to development, which can. only be accomplished by procure it. We do not condemn all this : our object cutters generally setting themselves to study and is rather to show the cutter who hopes to become first- acquire the Art of Cutting and getting up Ladies' class at this branch of tailoring, the necessity there is • iarments —an art in Tiiost respects widely different for application and study, to become acquainted with from the production of gentlemen's garments, and science in all its teachings, so as to apply it to his which must receive special and attentive study before calling ; to thoroughly unde]"stand the application of success can be possible. This work will supply the art in all its fine studies, so as to utilize its lessons to necessary materials in every detail for such study. the adorning of the female form ; to understand the Starting at the beginning, with the anatomy of the phases of practical tailoring, which enables form to be female figure, we proceed step by step till we embrace introduced into what was before flat and lifeless. We every point connected with the production of Ladies' might proceed almost indefinitely to show how know- tailor-made garments, in all their styles and varieties, ledge was power in this direction, but we will take the so that by application and perseverance, any cutter of various phases in their order, and leave the student to ordinary tact and intelligence, can, through the medium follow up the study of many of the subjects which we of the following pages, master this noble art, and so may only be able to touch lightly in dealing with them. enable him, as cutter, to take any position in a high- To understand our subject thoroughly, the first subject class is trade : or, as master, to develop his trale by the we must deal with making of ladies" garments, turned out with such fit, Anatomy, taste and style, as will be well nigh certain to ensure success. A subject deserving of far more attention from tailors Such, briefly, is the aim and object of this work. than it receives. It is a study which recalls to us the This must be a continuous study of on the part the laws of our 1 )ivine Creator when he fashioned our bodies. cutter, for fashions change so rapidly, one style succeeds It is not necessary that our readers spend months another so speedily, that unless he is on the alert, he or years acquiring the names of all the bones of the will soon drop back into the second rate : for it is human figure : what we want them to understand is, well known that ladies' make a study of dress ; they that a bone of such a shape is in such a position, and not only know what is the latest style, also but they that its movements are in certain directions ; that it is understand every application of art, and very often surrounded by certain muscles which develop in cer £4i&ZXP?i& _ : : ^^p*^ THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE his tain directions : and, having acquired this knowledge, notice in practice how very much extra the hips are the cutter will be able to distinguish between the pos- developed in the female form than the male. Another sible and the impossible in nature, and so lay the reference to Figures 1 and 2 will readily illustrate this foundation for formulating sound systems. It will of the male pelvis we shall not particularise, but of the enable him to understand the outline of the form he female we wish to call attention to the fine oval form has to clothe, independent of such artificial appliances it presents as compared with the male, the great breadth as bustles, crinolines, &c, &c. of the haunch bones, &c. It is this great breadth of It teaches the symmetry of the body, and shows how the hips in woman, that the ladies' tailor has to observe the left side is an almost exact reproduction of the and make provision for, and which, together with the right only in reverse. other peculiarities of the female skeleton, will open his It teaches where growth is possible and where impos- eyes to the reason for many of the effects he has to sible ; how certain bones always remain near the sur- deal with. Important as is the study of anatomy as face of the skin, and how when the body develops a foundation upon which to build up a scientific and either fat or muscle, where the increment is placed, and practical knowledge, we do not wish to overlook the how it affects the surrounding parts. undisputed fact, that the skeleton bears but an indis- It teaches the movements of limbs, where the three tinct resemblance to the outside, the muscles and flesh different joints are to be found, viz.,* the gliding, the formation having much to do with that. But a little universal or ball socket and the hinge joint.
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