Literary route

Croatia, October 2013

Once upon a time…in Europe! 1

Grundtvig Learning Partnership project „Once upon a time…in Europe“ Lifelong Learning Programme

Project no. 2012‐1‐ES1‐GRU06‐53427 4

This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 2 contents:

INTRODUCTION ...... 4 ABOUT ...... 7 1. AUGUST ŠENOA ...... 7 2. THE SQUARE OF EUROPE...... 8 3. ZAGREB CATHEDRAL ...... 8 4. DOLAC MARKET ...... 9 5. TKALČIĆEVA STREET ...... 10 6. MARIJA JURIĆ ZAGORKA ...... 10 7. THE BLOODY BRIDGE (KRVAVI MOST) ...... 11 8. LONG STREET, GRADEC, STONE GATE ...... 11 9. ST. MARK’S SQUARE ...... 12 1o. DVERCE, LOTRŠČAK TOWER ...... 13 11. ANTUN GUSTAV MATOŠ ...... 14 12. VIEWPOINT AT KATARINA’S SQUARE ...... 14 13. BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE ...... 15 14. THE GROUNDED SUN ...... 16 15. PETAR PRERADOVIĆ & VLADIMIR VIDRIĆ ...... 16 16. NIKOLA TESLA ...... 17 17. TIN UJEVIĆ ...... 17 THE GREEN HORSESHOE ...... 18 18. SQUARE OF MARSHAL TITO & CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATRE ...... 18 19. MAŽURANIĆ SQUARE ...... 19 20. MARKO MARULIĆ SQUARE & THE CROATIAN NATIONAL ARCHIVES ...... 20 21. BOTANICAL GARDEN ...... 21 22. ZAGREB CITY LIBRARIES ...... 21 23. SQUARE OF KING TOMISLAV ...... 22 24. SQUARE OF JOSIP JURAJ STROSSMAYER ...... 23 25. PARK ZRINJEVAC (NIKOLA ŠUBIĆ ZRINSKI SQUARE) ...... 24 THE KRAPINA NEANDERTHAL MUSEUM ...... 25 TRAKOŠĆAN CASTLE ...... 25 VARAŽDIN ...... 25 LITERARY READINGS ...... 27

Once upon a time…in Europe! 3

INTRODUCTION

Dear guests, we wish you all a very warm welcome to our beautiful country , a homeland of many famous writers and poets and their interesting characters, many of whom you will be meeting today!

We hope your visit to our country will awake in all of you a great interest for the hidden and valuable pearls of our national literature which is as famous around the world as our beautiful Adriatic coast.

After hearing many of the interesting stories of the authors' lives and the impact of thier work, we hope to give you a sense of our past and present culture. We invite you to injoy seeing, breathing, feeling, tasting and imagining all the rich ways which Croatian writers, poets and their readers used and still use to develop and preserve the literature treasures of Croatia!

Croatian team

Once upon a time…in Europe! 4

Reading in digital age

Is there reading in digital age or is it going to survive? Can browsing the Internet, reading Wikipedia, blogs, posts on social networks od ODF books be regarded as reading? What about watching videos, using simulators and experimenting on the net? Or is it that only (dusty) books can be read?

Plato was talking, even writing, against writing! He argued that writing thoughts will make people's mind lazy and destimulate thinking. Similarly people were opposing the printing press being afraid that knowledge will be available to those not able to comprehend its full meaning and consequences of its use. The same seems to repeat with digital technologies.

On the other hand would the icons of human literacy be writes if they lived today? Or would they rather express their creativity in the role of film directors or even actors? Likewise, is Hitchcock, Spielberg, Huston, Lennon, Brando and other icons of contemporary culture lived centuries ago, would they be poets and writers?

No one can tell for sure but it is sure that it is all about creativity and that technology only opens up new ways to express human creativity?

Now, what it the essence of reading? The media? The form? The intended audience? The content? Or the act of searching for, assimilating, analyzing other people’s ideas, feelings, perceptions, messages? And using them in our own lives. The most important is to read, to tap into other people's minds. Because written (recorded, painted, photographed, …) snapshot of part of human's mind given at disposal to other fellow humans today, and in the future is THE thing that made us stand out from all other known species and has created the modern civilization as we know it. The most important in reading is what you do wile reading, how active your mind is, rather than the form of the source of information.

Therefore any collective effort to foster reading AND exchange for ideas among readers is one of the most fundamental activities and should supported to highest extent. I welcome all participants of the “Once upon a time in Europe” project and encourage all of you to invite as many people you know to reading and talking about read not only in the framework of this project but in all circumstances and in the future.

Off course, there is nothing as addictive as the smell of paper and ink and glue of the cover of a good book 

Predrag Pale

Once upon a time…in Europe! 5

Predrag MatvejeviĆ

Predrag Matvejević (born 1932) is a Croatian and Bosnian writer known for his writing as well as for his political activism. His book Mediterranean Breviary: A Cultural Landscape has been a bestseller in many European countries, and has been translated into more than 20 languages.

Matvejević taught at the University of Paris III: Sorbonne Nouvelle (New Sorbonne) in Paris as well as in the Sapienza in Rome. He is the past President and now a lifelong honorary Vice‐President of the PEN International. Additionally, he is a member of the World Political Forum.

A HISTORY ABOUT MAN AND THE SEA... (excerpt from Mediterranean Breviary)

Everywhere the eye can see—from vista to vista, event to event— there are stories about the sea and the coast, the islands and isolation, the body andincarceration, about winds, rivers, and estuaries, about ourselves: the eternal rituals of rise and fall, departure and return, grandiloquence and parody, palingenesis and palimpsest, circlemaking and circlebreaking. The moment we try to penetrate these oppositions, they become eschatology or prosody, yet I do not see how we can avoid them. Putting them into words may represent the Mediterranean's greatest achievement. Setting sail for distant seas and distant continents, the great seafarers have imitated their Mediterranean forebears by keeping minute records of their travels. The ship's log and travelogue are among the earliest genres of literature, the earliest branches of science.

Denizens of the north often identify our sea with the South. Something attracts them to it even when they remain perfectly loyal to their homelands. It is more than a need for warm sun and strong light. It may be what has been called "faith in the South." Anyone, regardless of place of birth or residence, can become a Mediterranean. Mediter‐raneanity is acquired, not inherited; it is a decision, not a privilege. Some even say there are fewer and fewer true Mediterraneans on the Mediterranean. Being Mediterranean entails more than history or geography, tradition or memory, birthright or belief. The Mediterranean is destiny.

Predrag Matvejević

Once upon a time…in Europe! 6

ABOUT ZAGREB

Zagreb is the capital city and the largest city in Croatia. It is located at the foot of the Medvednica mountain and the valley of the river Sava. About 900 years ago, up on the neighboring hills, two medieval settlements (Kaptol and Gradec) were being developed. The hills were separated by a stream (Medveščak) that flowed from the mountain Medvednica and poured into the river Sava. Zagreb as we know it today was created when the two medieval settlements were joined into one and then it continued to expand over the river Sava.

Zagreb is also the hub of business, academic education, culture, art and entertainment. Many famous scientists, artists and athletes come from Zagreb and many of them work here. Zagreb offers its visitors the Baroque atmosphere of the Upper Town, picturesque open‐air markets, diverse shopping stores and rich selection of crafts, as well as delicious local cuisine. Zagreb is a city of green parks and walking roads, with many places to visit in its beautiful surroundings. It stretches over 650 km2, with a population of 790,017.

1. AUGUST ŠENOA

August Šenoa was a Croatian novelist, writer of short stories, poet, critic and columnist. In addition to writing, to survive he was active in numerous city activities and was a city senator. His most famous work, and also the first Croatian historical novel is The Goldsmith's gold from 1871, which, like all his works, exudes patriotism. Some of Šenoa’s work include: the Peasants' Revolt, Diogeneš, Pirates of Senj, Luka the Beggar, The fellow Lovro and the unfinished novel The Curse, all of which emphasize the love for his country and care for the poor people.

He reached his peak in period of transition from Romanticism to Realism and thus the period is called “Šenoa’s period”. In addition to writing books, August Šenoa worked as a journalist, critic, short story writer, novelist, satirist, poet, playwright and public worker for the only Croatian magazines of the time, "Pozor" and "Vijenac".

Šenoa wrote mostly during nights, because during the day he was occupied with the duties he performed as an employee of the Zagreb city administration. He was the initiator of modern literature in Croatia and was also an artistic director and playwright. We are mentioning him today because he used and devoted all of his writing talent to honor his hometown ‐ Zagreb.

1. READING: AUGUST ŠENOA – The Peasant's revolt

Once upon a time…in Europe! 7

2. THE SQUARE OF EUROPE

The square of Europe is the youngest square in Zagreb ‐ opened on the 1st of July 2013, to honor the Croatian accession as a full member of the European Union.

Croatia is a democratic republic, the majority of the population is made of Croats and the official language is Croatian with three most widespread dialects ‐ štokavian, kajkavian and chakavian.

The official currency is the Croatian kuna. Croatian banknotes portray many of the Croatian writers (Ivan Gundulić, Ivan Mažuranić, Marko Marulić, Ante Starčević), which indicates that the Croats value literature and our beloved writers.

Croatia has historically been a part of many states (Austro‐Hungarian Empire, the Venetian Republic, Yugoslavia), but has managed to preserve and develop Croatian language and culture. We could even say that Croatia used the presence of other nations in its history to rise culturally. Today, our language is mostly influenced by English language, although Italian, German, Hungarian and Turkish influences are present as well.

3. ZAGREB CATHEDRAL

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Saints Stephen and Ladislaus, known simply as the Cathedral of Zagreb is Croatia's largest religious building and one of the most valuable monuments of Croatian cultural heritage. It is located on Kaptol, the first of two medieval hills on which Zagreb began to develop. The Catholic diocese was established here in 1054.

HISTORY:

There first was a small church here that was built in the period from 9th‐11th century and was later destroyed. In the 13th century the cathedral was built in the Romano ‐ Gothic style but got destroyed in a terrible earthquake in 1880. It was thoroughly restored in the period from 1880 ‐ 1906 according to the plans of the Viennese architect Schmidt and led by the Austrian architect Hermann Bolle.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 8

The fountain with a sculpture of the Virgin Mary and the four angels who embody the Christian virtues (faith, hope, innocence and humility) was built in front of the Cathedral. Angels and Virgin Mary are made of bronze and gold. Because of its history, traces of several styles of architecture can be seen: Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.

Interesting fact:

In the evening, the Cathedral is lit with a special way of lighting which is also used to illuminate the Louvre, and was developed by a master of lighting Yuri Agabekov (whose father is from Zagreb), the owner of Agabekov Lighting Company International.

4. DOLAC MARKET

Dolac Market is called the „Belly of Zagreb“ beacause for ages it has been serving the locals who are buying fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese and eggs from the country women called ''kumice'' under the trademark red umbrella from Šestine (in honor of the Šestinians who, in the past, were the first vendors of fresh food to the citizens, carrying it in baskets on their heads). There is even a competition "The best kumica of the year ..."  and the winner is the country woman who spends the most days on the market and sells truly healthy products.

Here you can purchase souvenirs bearing the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (gingerbread hearts, old wooden toys, etc.), which are still hand made in several villages in Zagorje. Whole families take part in the production process, men usually shape the wooden toys and women decorate it with color. Each family has their own way of decorating the wood, which is recognizable.

Petrica Kerempuh

Character from the works of one of the greatest Croatian writers of the 20th century ‐ Miroslav Krleža. Many consider Petrica to be the stand‐up comedian before stand‐up comedy even existed because he used humor to talk about the serious things one was not allowed to speak about publicly. He was able to do it because the way he spoke was not immediately easy to understand.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 9

Miroslav Krleža (1893. ‐ 1981.)

Miroslav Krleža is the greatest Croatian writer of the 20th century. He left the largest body of work in the Croatian literature til this day. In 88 years of life and 66 years of literary work he has written fifty books of poetry, short stories, novels, plays, essays, political journalism, polemic, travelogues, diaries, memoirs, encyclopedia articles. In his writing, we can find all forms of literary expression. He has published a number of books and founded four magazines (Plamen, Književna republika, Danas, Pečat) and was the founder of the Yugoslav Lexicographical Institute (now Lexicographic Institute of Miroslav Krleža) and was the Institute director since 1950. 2. & 3. READING: MIROSLAV KRLEŽA – SNOW and THE SONG OF THE GALLOWS-BIRD

5. TKALČIĆEVA STREET

Tkalčićeva Street is a well known meeting place where the locals sip coffee and socialize. The street was built by walling of the stream Medveščak, which passed through here and was a natural division mark of the two medieval settlements ‐ Kaptol and Gradec. The stream still flows below the ground and pours into the Sava River.

Buildings that were built here in the past used to have balconies to give a perfect view of the stream Medveščak. Also, a lot of mills that used the water from the stream were built here.

6. MARIJA JURIĆ ZAGORKA

Marija Jurić Zagorka was a prominent Croatian female journalist and writer, who wrote mostly historical, but also social and adventure novels and was very popular among the reading public. As a journalist she was fighting against social discrimination, hungarization and germanization and in favor of women's rights. She was reporting about political events as a reporter from the Parliament and a correspondent in and . In the 1930’s Zagorka encouraged and edited the first newspaper in Croatia exclusively for women, called – Ženski list, and then the magazine Hrvatica.

Among her many novels most famous were: The Witch of Grič, The Daughter of Lotrščak, Gordana, The Republicans. She wrote romantic novels with elements of adventure, crime, action and historical facts. In her works we meet with many romantic motifs, such as mysticism, mystery, unexplained murders.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 10

Interesting fact:

She wrote under the pseudonyms (Jurica M. Zagorski, Petrica Kerempuh, Jurić Vodvarka, Iglica) and took the nickname Zagorka because of her love for Croatian Zagorje, where she spent her childhood.

7. THE BLOODY BRIDGE (KRVAVI MOST)

Kaptol and Gradec were two settlements that lived separately in the period from 13th to 18th century. Neighborly antagonism was the cause of constant conflicts. The minimum damage of those conflicts was when one neibour destroyed in the night what was built by day, but most destructive were their bloody wars, as evidenced by the name of the bridge ‐ Bloody Bridge.

Today there is no trace of the bridge, except for the name. Today this is a street with boutiques on the one and the library of Marija Jurić Zagorka on the other side. The bridge also had a name “The written bridge” („Pisani most“) because it was decorated with carvings, resembling the Easter eggs ornaments („pisanica“).

Interesting fact:

In the past, the corner of Tkalčićeva Street and the Bloody Bridge was the location of the most famous brothel "The golden kuna". Today it is the office of the state audit. The major economic prize in Croatia is also named Golden kuna. 

8. LONG STREET, GRADEC, STONE GATE

In 1242 Gradec received The Golden Bula (The Golden Seal) from the Croatian ‐ Hungarian King Bela IV, which had made it a free royal city and as such was obligated to build solid stone walls as protection from enemies.

Gradec had only four entrances to the city ‐ eastern, western, northern and southern door and a small entrance. People were free to enter the city before 9:00 PM and afterwards the door was locked til the next morning. Stone Gate is the only preserved and later reconstructed city entrance from that era. The rest were destroyed by fire.

Legend has it that after a fire in the 17th century which destroyed two thirds of the city, an intact painting of Our Lady holding the baby was found in the ashes. That was declared a miracle. The painting is placed in the Baroque frame in the Stone Gate and the Mother of

Once upon a time…in Europe! 11

God has become the patron of the city. Locals come to kneel before it and light a candle to the Stone Gate whenever something happens that they are thankful for. After the great fire the construction of wooden houses was prohibited in Zagreb and the building of houses made of stone and brick began.

Interesting fact:

Located near the Stone Gate is the first pharmacy in Zagreb "To the Black Eagle", which in the 14th century was led by grand grandson of Dante Alighieri (author of The Divine Comedy) Niccollo who married a local girl.

9. ST. MARK’S SQUARE

St. Mark's Square was the main square of Gradec, where craftsmen, merchants and later nobles ‐ Croats, Slovenes, , Germans and Venetians used to live. Each nation was a master of its own craft.

Church of St. Mark is a blend of styles (Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque) that was renovated by Herman Bolle after the Big earthquake in 1880. The roof shows two emblems ‐ old Croatian emblem (the chessboard for Croatia, lion or leopard for Dalmatia, kuna for Slavonia) and the emblem of the city of Zagreb (doors open during time of peace and closed during the war).

Fairs used to be held in front of the Church. At the center there was a pillory where the disobedient and criminals wore iron masks of shame or were tied up while residents threw vegetables at them. Trials and denunciation of women accused of being witches were conducted here as well. Convicted women were tortured, burned at the stake or decapitated (started in the late 15th century, peaked at the mid‐17th century and was forbidden in the early 18th century by Maria Therese). Gymnasiums, theaters and radio stations were later built here. Today buildings such as The Government, The Cabinet, Parliament and The City Hall are located here.

4. READING: MARIJA JURIĆ ZAGORKA – Daughter of the LotršČak

Once upon a time…in Europe! 12

1o. DVERCE, LOTRŠČAK TOWER

Dverce or South gates were closed at 9:00PM. Lotrščak Tower was named by latrunculorum campana (bell of thieves), which was rung every night from the tower before the closing of the city gates. Every day, for more than 110 years, there is a cannon shot from the top of Lotrščak, indicating noon. It wasn’t fired only during Second World War.

Lotrščak was built in the early 13th century and was used to defend the southern entrance to the city. For years it was rented out to citizens who were supposed to keep it during the peace and give it for the use to the city during the war. In the late 19th century the city hall has decided to get a cannon that will shoot everyday day so that the bell ringers could adjust to it. And so it is today.

Interesting fact:

According to the legend, at noon Lotrščak cannon fired a shot to the Turkish camp which was located across the river Sava and blew off a cock (or turkey) that a Turkish chef was carrying on a platter to serve the Pasha. After that the Turks were scattered and did not attack Zagreb. But in fact, in the late 19th century the Austrian emperor decided to introduce the cannon because he was angry when he heard that the clocks on church steeples were not aligned and each rang in its own time, so the sound of cannon was introduced to mark exactly noon.

FUNICULAR

Zagreb Funicular connects the upper and lower part of the city. It was built in the late 19th century. Franjo Klein decided to introduce a vehicle to facilitate the climbing of the sellers who went to town with the burden. Funicular is probably the shortest in the world ‐ the journey takes only 55 seconds and it is 66 meters long. In the beginning, it was often halting, so the locals called it ''Zapinjača'' meaning ‘the one that stucks’.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 13

11. ANTUN GUSTAV MATOŠ

Antun Gustav Matoš was a famous Croatian poet, novelist, columnist, essayist and travelogues writer who lived in the 19th century.

While he simultaneously wrote and published novels, travelogues, critical articles and feuilletons from the beginning of his writing, his poems began to continuously appear in magazines quite late, around 1906. Until his death he wrote all in all 80 poems.

He is the author of wonderful poems that talk about love, flowers, experiences of love as a great pain ‐ the result of the conflict of dreams and reality, mostly seen in his best love poems "Samotna ljubav", "Djevojčici mjesto igračke", "Utjeha kose".

5. READING: ANTUN GUSTAV MATOŠ – A sonnet and shadow

12. VIEWPOINT AT KATARINA’S SQUARE

Countess Ana Katarina Zrinski, born in the 17th century as member of the noble Frankopan family, was a Croatian writer, member of the noble Zrinski family. She was known as a patron and the first woman in Croatia which not only was a translator, but also wrote literary texts.

She was the wife of Petar Zrinski, Croatian poet and ban who, along with her brother Fran Krsto Frankopan, fought against centralism and absolutism of Viennese court. As a result both of them were found guilty of conspiracy and executed by decapitation. Before his death he wrote her a love letter that begins with "My dear sweetheart..."

Museum of Broken Relationships

A museum dedicated to unsuccessful love affairs. It was founded by a couple of artists who broke up their love relationship, gathered all their things in common and made an exhibition of them. Afterwards they were traveling around the world for three years and gathered other exhibits in five different themes: love at a distance, fetishes, marriage and divorce, a series of unfortunate loves (e.g. a letter a 9‐year‐old boy wrote from the war shelter to the girl he loved).

Once upon a time…in Europe! 14

13. BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE

Ban Josip Jelačić Square is the main square in Zagreb (locally known as Jelačić Square Place or the Square; older names were Square of Republic and Harmica) .

In the middle of the Square there is a monument (by sculptor Dominik Fernkorn) of Ban Jelačić who sits on his horse. The real horse which Jelačić rode to the inauguration served as a model.

Josip Jelačić Bužimski, a general and Croatian ban, abolished serfdom and convened the first elections for the Croatian Parliament, won a series of battles against insurgents in the Habsburg Monarchy during the revolution in Hungary in 1848. When the statue was first placed on the square it faced north towards Hungary and now it is facing south because of the logic of the square. In the 1947 the statue has been removed because it represented a political symbol of Croatia and the square was named Square of the Republic. In 1990 the statue was ceremoniously returned to the Square which was renamed Ban Jelačić Square.

On the eastern side of the square there is a fountain which is a modern version of Manduševac fountain, aka Manduša’s well, where the citizens used to meet, get drinking water, water livestock and the legend says that even the witches gathered there at night.

Interesting fact:

According to legend, Zagreb is named after the beautiful Manduša who grabbed water out of the well and gave it to the army that was passing by. Among them was the thirsty Ban coming from the battle. She introduced herself as Manda and he told her: "Mando, baby, grab me some water" and so become the origin of the name Manduševac and Zagreb.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 15

14. THE GROUNDED SUN

Zagreb Solar System is an art installation developed in the 2004 by the artist Davor Preis. It is a metal model of the solar system whose center is the sculpture "Grounded Sun" (by Ivan Kožarić), located in Bogovićeva Street in Zagreb. The distance and the size of the planets are defined by the size of the Grounded sun.

The planets are located at the following locations:  Merkur ‐ Margaretska 3  Venera ‐ Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3  Zemlja ‐ Varšavska 9  Mars ‐ Tkalčićeva 21  Jupiter ‐ Voćarska 71  Saturn ‐ Račićeva 1  Uran ‐ Siget 9  Neptun ‐ Kozari put  Pluton ‐ Aleja Bologne (although it is not considered the planet anymore, it is still a part of the installation)

15. PETAR PRERADOVIĆ & VLADIMIR VIDRIĆ

Petar Preradović was a 19th century Croatian poet, translator (German, Italian, French, English and almost all Slavic languages) and a military general in the Austrian army. His literary opus is divided into three parts: patriotic poems, love poems and diverse poems. His poems are expressing concern for the Croatian language and genuine patriotism. His patriotic poetry deals with various aspects of patriotism, discussing the discord, love, nostalgia and the future.

Vladimir Vidrić, a Croatian poet, considered one of the major figures of the Croatian secessionist poetry. He was one of the leaders of the group of demonstrators that burned the Hungarian flag on the occasion of the emperor Franz Joseph's visit to Zagreb in 1895 and was sent to jail because of it.

Interesting fact:

Preradović’s granddaughter, Austrian‐Croatian writer Paula von Preradović (married Molden) is the author of the national anthem of the Republic of Austria.

Vidrić was known for his prodigious memory ‐ he used to spend whole evenings reciting poetry to his amazed friends.

7. READING: VLADIMIR VIDRIĆ – LANDSCAPE & THE BAY

Once upon a time…in Europe! 16

16. NIKOLA TESLA

Nikola Tesla (born 1856 in Smiljani near Gospić, Austria‐Hungary, now Croatia, died 1943 in New York) was a Serbian‐American scientist and inventor in the field of electrical engineering and radio technology. He spent most of his life in New York, working on his inventions alone or with other scientists.

Tesla was took pride in his Serbian origin and Croatian homeland. On the occasion of the centennial anniversary of his birth in 1956, the unit of magnetic flux density was named 'tesla'

17. TIN UJEVIĆ

“The artist lives in his work, not in any way in his life.” T.Ujević

He studied Croatian language and literature, classical philology, philosophy and aesthetics at the Faculty of Philosophy in Zagreb. From 1940 until his death he worked as a professional writer in Zagreb, not abiding by the usual standards of living, but living a bohemian life.

After the banning of public action in 1945, he dedicates his energy to translating and essays. Still a prolific lyricist and a great polemicist, he marked the Croatian literature of the twentieth century.

Croatia's largest poetry prize awarded by the Croatian Writers' Association is named after him.

8. READING: TIN UJEVIĆ - NOCTURNE

Once upon a time…in Europe! 17

THE GREEN HORSESHOE

The complex of parks in the form of an angular letter U in the center of Zagreb is called „The Green horseshoe“ or „Lenuci Horseshue“ by Milan Lenuci, architect and urban planner of the 19th century. Although he was not the originator of the idea of the Horseshoe, his contribution was the greatest.

The Horseshoe consists of 7 squares and a garden: Square of Marshal Tito, Square of Mažuranićs, Marko Marulić Square, Botanical Garden, Ante Starčević Square, Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Zrinjevac), Josip Juraj Strossmayer Square and King Tomislav Square.

18. SQUARE OF MARSHAL TITO & CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATRE

In the mid 19th century this was a marshy ground which served as a spot for cattle fairs, but soon many of the important buildings were constructed: The University building (The ), Teacher center, complex of The School of Crafts (now The Museum of Arts and Crafts with a school of the same name) and the square changed its name to The University Square.

In the center of the square is the building of the Croatian National Theatre. In front of the theater is "The Spring of life", a masterpiece of Ivan Mestrović. In the southwestern corner of the square is a statue of St. George killing the Dragon. From the mid‐20th century the square was named after Josip Broz Tito, leader of the anti‐fascist movement and the president of the former Yugoslavia.

THE Croatian National Theatre:

The first theater performances in Zagreb were being played in churches and from the mid‐14th century on city squares. The first professional theater was opened on St Mark's Square in the mid 19th century, after the wholesaler Stanković won the jackpot in the Viennese lottery and invested it in the theater. In 1840, with the performance of the first Croatian play "Juran and Sofija" by Ivan Kukuljević Sakcinski, the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb began its official activity. An earthquake in 1880 significantly damaged the theater on St Mark's Square.

In 1895, on the University Square, in front of the Emperor and King Franz Joseph I, the new Croatian National Theatre was opened. On the building there are four busts (Ivan Gundulić, Junije Palmotić, Dimitrije Demeter and Vatroslav Lisinski) by an unknown author.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 18

9. READING: IVAN GUNDULIĆ – DUBRAVKA

Ivan Gundulić (1589. – 1638.)

Gjivo Gundulić, Croatian Baroque epic poet, lyricist and playwright, was born and died in Dubrovnik. His influence on the formation of the Croatian language is immeasurable. Gundulić’s play Dubravka (first performed in 1628) has an allegorical meaning: drama is about the problem of power and freedom, the problems of moral and ethical character. The verses about freedom (also known as Anthem of Freedom) served as the motto of Croatian national ideology. The most important Gundulić’s work is an unfinished historical romantic epic poem Osman, created under the influence of Tasso's epic poem Jerusalem Delivered. Ivan Mažuranić wrote the missing parts of Osman.

In September 1995 Luciano Pavarotti held a concert on behalf of the children of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Many musicians and celebrities were involved in the show including Princess Diana, Brian Eno, Michael Bolton, Meatloaf, Zucchero, Nenad Bach, The Edge, and Bono, who recited at the end of the title song (Miss Sarajevo) the famous Ivan Gundulić verses: ”O liepa, o draga, o slatka slobodo” (“Oh beautiful, oh precious, oh sweet Liberty”).

19. MAŽURANIĆ SQUARE

The Square was named after the three writers of the family MazuraniĆ: Antun, Ivan and Vladimir. In the mid‐19th century the first artificial ice rink in Zagreb was placed here. On the north side of the square is a building of The Academy of Dramatic Arts from 1883 and the famous LADO, the National Folk Dance Ensemble of Croatia founded in 1949.

Ivan Mažuranić (1814. – 1890.)

He was a prominent Croatian politician, who in 1873 was elected to be the ban of Croatia. He was the first Croatian ‘ban of the commoners’ and operated in the Croatia for 7 years. The most important work of Mažuranić is The Death of Smail‐aga Čengić. It represents the highest achievement of his poetic creation and also one of the best works of our literature.

Ivana Brlić‐Mažuranić, Ivan Mažuranić’s granddaughter (1874. ‐ 1938.)

She is often called the Croatian Andersen (for her virtuosity as a storyteller for children) and Croatian Tolkien (for often using the fantastic world of mythology). She was nominated for the Nobel Prize two times and was the first woman admitted to the Yugoslav Academy of Sciences and Arts (now called The Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts). Her most significant work is considered to be a collection of short stories Croatian Tales of

Once upon a time…in Europe! 19

Long Ago, published in 1916, containing mythological motifs of common wisdom of the world, primarily inspired by the amazing Slavic mythology.

20. MARKO MARULIĆ SQUARE & THE CROATIAN NATIONAL ARCHIVES

Construction of The Royal University Library and The Royal State Archives, designed by the architect R. Lubynski, was completed in 1913. This is the most important Croatian secession building. Externally one can see a high dome above the central large reading room in the central part of the building. Four pillars with the four owls carrying globes and the facades with allegories of four university sciences (philosophy, medicine, law and theology) were emphasizing the purpose of the building – being the University Library.

In 1996 The National and University Library moved into a new building and this beautiful building since then is the residence of the Croatian State Archives. In 1999 a statue of Marko Marulić, a writer considered to be the father of Croatian literature, was placed in the center of the square. Since there is no visual template of Marulić, the author managed to imagine his character reading descriptions of him in the literature.

Marko Marulić (1450. – 1524.)

Marko Marulić was a Croatian writer from Split, known as the father of Croatian literature. He wrote poems and various writings inspired by religious themes and political destiny of Croatians using Croatian and Latin language. His greatest poetic achievement is the epic poem Judita which was encouraging his people to defend their homeland.

Throughout his life he acquired European fame with his Christian moralistic works in Latin: De Institution bene vivendi and Evangelistarium. This work was known even by the King Henry VIII and it is currently one of the valuables of the famous British Library.

10. READING: IVANA BRLIĆ MAŽURANIĆ – Stribor's Forest

Once upon a time…in Europe! 20

21. BOTANICAL GARDEN

Botanical Garden of The Faculty of the Natural Science and its Botanical Institute was founded in 1889 by Antun Heinz, professor of botany at the University of Zagreb, for the purpose of university teaching and research and also to serve as a city park. In 1971 it was protected by law as a monument of nature and culture (monument of garden architecture). The garden was built in the so‐called landscape style with loose groups of trees and winding paths. Only the flower area is shaped strictly symmetrical.

Dobriša Cesarić (1868. – 1919.)

One of the greatest Croatian poets of all time. He appeared in the literature for the first time as a fourteen‐year‐old, in 1916 with a song "And I love." He entered the Italian anthology of world poetry "Poeti del mondo", and the German anthology of contemporary European poetry and his poems have been translated into numerous languages. Among the great Croatian poets, Cesarić is one of those who probably wrote the least. For more than half a century, he wrote only a few hundred songs, of which only a few exceed to the next page.

11. READING: DobriŠA CESARIĆ – A Fruit Tree after the Rain

22. ZAGREB CITY LIBRARIES

In the beginning of the 20th century the first public library in the city of Zagreb was established in the tower above the Stone Gate (The Museum of the City of Zagreb, part of which was The National Archives of Zagreb).

By the 1908, 14 000 books were collected by donations and educational, professional, scientific lectures and musical performances were held for 45 000 visitors. Soon, the space in the tower above the Stone Gate has become too small for the further development of the library, so in 1937 it moved temporarily to The Press center and in 1995 into the house of Ante Starčević (Father of the Country).

Once upon a time…in Europe! 21

23. SQUARE OF KING TOMISLAV

Austrian emperor and Croatian king Franz Joseph I visited Zagreb in 1895 and in his honor the square was named ‐ Franz Joseph Square, but in 1927 it was renamed to King Tomislav's Square, in the honor of the first Croatian king.

The northern side of the square is dominated by the building of the Art Pavilion, the oldest exhibition area in the Slavic south (1898). A very nice park area spreads behind the pavilion, with a fountain from the 1895.

On the south side of the square is the building of the main railway station designed by architect Ferenc Pfaff, opened to traffic in 1892, when its official title was The Royal Station. It is a significant urban transport hub.

The palaces designed by top Zagreb architects are surrounding the east and west side of the square. On the west side there is the The Ante Starčević Square (The Father of the Country) and the Esplanade Hotel, which was built in 1925 as the luxurious accommodation to passengers of the famous Orient Express and in which Marija Jurić Zagorka lived for a while. On the corner between the two squares is the building of The City library.

ANTUN MIHANOVIĆ (1796.‐1861.)

Antun Mihanović was a Croatian writer and lawyer. He gained fame writing a poem Horvatska domovina, verses of which century became the Croatian anthem in the late 19th. Music for Horvatska domovina or, according to the first verse, Our Beautiful Homeland, was set by Joseph Runjanin. It was first publicly performed in 1861. It was officially adopted as the national anthem in 1891.

Mihanović did a lot of important actions for our homeland; he fought for Croatia in the period when such actions could have been considered treason.

12. READING: ANTUN MIHANOVIĆ – croatian HOMELAND

Once upon a time…in Europe! 22

24. SQUARE OF JOSIP JURAJ STROSSMAYER

J.J. Strossmayer Square was previously known as the Academy square because of the palace of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the most prominent Croatian association ("the educated society") which was founded in the late 19th century. Its founder is considered to be the bishop Strossmayer for his initiatives and large cash donations. By 1991, the name of the Academy was notated as Yugoslavian, when by the decision of the Croatian Parliament, the name was changed to Croatian.

It was designed by Viennese architect Friedrich von Schmidt, with the suggestion of Hermann Bollé. It is the first work of monumental historicism in Zagreb architecture with prominent elements of Neo‐Renaissance style. The monument of J.J. Strossmayer was made by famous sculptor Ivan Meštrović.

The square also holds the busts of Croatian poet Dragutin Domjanić, Croatian writer August Šenoa and Chemical Laboratory building, currently the Academy Library, followed by a monument ‘Shot’ dedicated to the victims of National Liberation Movement.

To the west is the first hotel in Zagreb, the Palace Hotel (Art Nouveau palace designed by Karl Schlesinger) opened in the early 20th Century and Modern Art Gallery (Palace of Baron Vranyczany) and on the east palace of the Croatian Matica.

13. READING: DRAGUTIN TADIJANOVIĆ – A SONG ABOUT A MAN AND THE SUN

Dragutin Tadijanović (1905.‐2007.)

Dragutin Tadijanović was a renowned Croatian poet who published over 500 poems in some twenty collections. Having died at the age of 101, he was among the longest living writers in Croatian history with generations having to study his poems in school.

Tadijanović holds distinction as one of the most popular and most influential Croatian poets of 20th century. He was often called "a living classic of Croatian poetry". An award has been named after him and granted by the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences (HAZU) for the life achievemnent in poetry.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 23

25. PARK ZRINJEVAC (NIKOLA ŠUBIĆ ZRINSKI SQUARE)

In the past this location was called The New square, it was a land where the cattle fairs war held. In the mid 19th century, on the occasion of 300th anniversary of the death of the great Croatian Nikola Šubić Zrinski, the city decided to construct the park and the promenade. 220 planes (type of tree) imported from Italy were planted and the park was officially opened in 1873.

On the north side of the park there is a meteorological pole made of Istrian marble designed by architect Herman Bolle. A music pavilion where concerts are held is located in the ceter of the park and the On the south side there are two fountains (which Zagreb citizens used to call "The Bolle’s mushrooms").

The square is surrounded by The Archaeological Museum, the building of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Croatian Supreme Court and the building of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts in front of which are the busts of Croatian famous men: Ivan Mažuranić, Juraj Julije Klović, Andrija Medulić, Ivan Kukuljević Sakcinski, Nikola Jurišić and Fran Krsto Frankopan.

14. READING: ANTUN BRANKO ŠIMIĆ - WARNING

Antun Branko Šimić (1898. –1925.)

Antun Branko Šimić was a poet, essayist, critic and translator, who was born in Herzegovina in 1898. In the eighth grade, he dropped out of school because of the publication of a literary magazine. He is the most prominent Croatian poet of modernism, credited with popularizing of the free verse poetry and Croatian integration into European literary trends. His life was turbulent and brief; he died as a twenty‐seven‐year‐old.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 24

THE KRAPINA NEANDERTHAL MUSEUM

The Krapina Neanderthal Museum is located on the founding site Hušnjakovo in Krapina, the world's most famous Neanderthal human paleontological site. The site is protected as the first paleontological natural monument in Croatia.

Its area is about 1,200 m² and it is one of the most modern and sophisticated museum projects in Croatia and the region. The age of this rich site corresponds to the period prior 130 000 years.

TRAKOŠĆAN CASTLE

Trakošćan Castle is one of the most beautiful castles in Croatia, located in the Croatian Zagorje. It was founded in the 13th century as a small fortress for monitoring the road from Ptuj to Bednja Valley. Since 1584 until the beginning of World War II it was held by the noble Drašković family. Its current appearance was established in the 19th century. Today the castle is owned by the Republic of Croatia and hosts a museum on four levels with a permanent exhibition.

A special and recognizable feature of Trakošćan is a large artificial lake, about a mile and a half long. In winter, the surface of the lake freezes and the ice remains on it for about three months. The immediate vicinity of the castle is designed as a landscaped park where the lake, meadows, trees and shrubs form a harmonious horticultural unision.

VARAŽDIN

Varaždin is a city in the northwest of the Croatia, along the coast of the Drava River, the center of Varaždin County. It was first mentioned in 12th century by the name of the Guarestin in the charter of King Bela IV.. It is the first Croatian city that has gained the status of a free royal city. It was also the Croatian capital from 1767 to 1776 when the Hungarian‐Croatian Maria Theresa founded the first modern Croatian government.

Varaždin has a remarkable monumental and artistic heritage, with the best preserved and the richest baroque urban complex in continental Croatia. Varaždin is also environmentally friendly city with many parks and green spaces which are formed on the basis of the past.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 25

Once upon a time…in Europe! 26

LITERARY READINGS

1. August Šenoa: SeljaČka buna / PEASANTS' REVOLT 2. Miroslav Krleža: SNIJEG / sNOW 3. MIROSLAV KRLEŽA: GalženjaČka / THE SONG OF THE GALLOWS-BIRD 4. MARIJA JURIĆ ZAGORKA: KĆI LOTRŠČAKA / DAUGTHER OF LOTRŠČAK 5. ANTUN GUSTAV Matoš: Utjeha kose / A sonnet 6. ANTUN GUSTAV MATOŠ: SJENA / SHADOW 7. Vladimir VidrIĆ: Dva PejzaŽA 8. Tin UjeviĆ: Notturno / Nocturne 9. IVAN GUNDULIĆ: DUBRAVKA 10. IVANA BRLIĆ MAŽURANIĆ: ŠUMA STRIBOROVA / Stibor’s forrest 11. Dobriša CesariĆ: VoĆKA POSLIJE KIŠE / A FRUIT TREE AFTER THE RAIN 12. Antun mihanoviĆ: Horvatska domovina / CROATIAN HOMELAND 13. Dragutin tadijanoviĆ: PJESMA O ČOVJEKU I SUNCU / A SONG ABOUT A MAN AND THE SUN 14. ANTUN BRANKO ŠIMIĆ: Opomena / WARNING

Once upon a time…in Europe! 27

1. August Šenoa: SeljaČka buna

“…Povijesti nijesam se iznevjerio. Nije mi toga ni trebalo. Sve su osobe u toj knjizi ‐ pa i zadnji sluga ‐ historične, svi užasni prizori, sva zlodjela krvnika su istinita, nipošto u kronici upisana, već po svjedocima pred sudom dokazana.

''Tvoj je otac pao, pale su stotine drugih, ali iz njihove krvi niče novo sjeme. Već sada jenja kruta sila tiranstva, ali doći će dan, po dugim nemilim ljetima, gdje će bog popraviti što su ljudi sagriješili, gdje će seljak dizati slobodno čelo kao i plemić. Tvoj otac nasluti kroz san novo doba i htjede ga doživjeti. Prerano je bilo. Ali ti idi, pripravi taj dan plamenom molitve, silom ljubavi. Vi pako, sinci ‐ okrenu se plemić svojim sinovima ‐ ne zaboravite da ste ljudi, da su svi ljudi braća, pamtite da je samo onaj pravi plemić u kom bije plemenito srce, da vrlina djeda nije jaka oprati opačine unučadi. Budite blagi i dobri. Kratak je put od kolijevke do groba, samo jedan ima put dobrote za plemića i kmeta, a u raju sjedi i car i prosjak jednako za stolom božjim. Imajte duše za puk, ko što sam imao ja!’’

Once upon a time…in Europe! 28

1. August Šenoa: PEASANTS' REVOLT

“…I did not betray the history. I did not have to. All the characters in this book—down to the last servant—are historical, all the terrible events, all the artocities of the executioners are true; they are not recorded in chronicles, but rather proved in court, before eyewitnesses.”

“Your father fell, hundereds of others fell, but a new seed is springing up from their blood. Already now the violence of the tyranny is subsiding, but after long, painful years the day will come when God will correct the mistakes that men have commited, when a peasant will hold up his free head. Through a dream your father had a premonition of the new day, and he wanted to see it. It was too early. But you go, prepare the day with the flame of prayer, with the power of love. And you, sons,‐ he turns towards his young sons ‐ don't forget that you're men, that all men are brothers, remember that only a noble heart makes a genuine noble, that a grandfather's virtue cannot wash away the vices of grandchildren. Be kind and be good. It's a short walk from birth to tomb, there's one and the same way of goodness for both a noble and a serf, and at God's table there's room for both an emperor and a beggar. Have a heart for the people, as I've had it myself!”

Once upon a time…in Europe! 29

2. Miroslav Krleža: SNIJEG

Na bijelom transparentu snijega sve se sada maske, pojave i stvari prljavima čine. I lijepe tečne žene voštano su sive, a crvene im usne ranjave i trule i zubi žuti, kao stare nule domina.

Glasovi su tupi i silno i prazno zvone, i bijeda je naša jasnija i veća kad nema sedmerostruke laži boja, i sve je samo ledeno i sivo.

U bijeloj umnoj tišini snijega ja hodam i osjećam jalovu bol. Mislim da to sve neće dugo trajati: još hitrije nego snijeg moje stope zamest će se moj trag u svemu. I nitko neće znati da sam i ja bio tu i prošao.

3. MIROSLAV KRLEŽA: GalženjaČka

Firu – firu, firula Od se dobe za navek Pod galgam žvegla Jedini su galge lek. Žveglica. Od se dobe do na kraj Firu – firu, firuli, Karv bu tekla vekomaj. Na galge bumo Došli si. Z tega pekla ni nazaj, Bogcu galge, grofu raj, Škerlaček nosim na hendek, Čerleni maj, kervavi maj. Dežd z vetrom mi je Kepenjek. Firu – firu, firula Pod galgam žvegla Al kerščenik, al copernjak, Žveglica. Pokopal bu nas loterščak.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 30

2. Miroslav Krleža: SNOW

Against the white, transparent snow all masks, all things look dirty. And lovely, lusty woman seem waxen‐grey, their lips like rotting gashes, Their teeth like old dominos.

Voices are blunt, with a strong and hollow boom. And our misery is clearer, bigger For lack of the sevenfold lie of colour – here all is ice and greyness.

Through the snow’s wise quiet I walk And feel a sterile pain.

I know all this will pass, and traces of myself will vanish Even quicker then the snow beneath my feet. And none will know that I was here and then was gone.

3. MIROSLAV KRLEŽA: THE SONG OF THE GALLOWS-BIRD

Tira‐lira, tiralee, Pipes the flute Through all times and eternity ‘neath the gallows tree. The gallows are the remedy.

Tira‐lira, tiraloo, Streams of blood will flow away, The gallows are Flow for ever and a day. For me and for you. From out this hell there is no way: My hat at a rakish angle set, The rich grow fat – poor Tom must pay. The rin and wind – Scarlet May‐time, bloody May. My coverlet. Tira‐lira, tiralee, Be Cristians we, or fiends from hell – Pipes the flaute For us will toll the felons’ bell. ‘neath the gallows tree.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 31

4. MARIJA JURIĆ ZAGORKA: KĆI LOTRŠČAKA

“…U dnu krčme pojavila se djevojka u ružičastoj haljini. Mlada je i jedra. Lica su joj ruže proljetne, oči dva rosna krasuljka. Zlatokose pletenice sjaju niz ramena kao da ih je splela od zlatnih sunčanih zraka. Sva je mlada i ružičasta kao grančice mlade kajsije kad procvate u proljeće. Iglica se uspravi i s ponosom reče:

‐Znate, Grič ima dvije znamenite stvari: Mandušu i moj krasopis. Tomica se nasmije pa odvrati:

‐ Tvoj krasopis sam vidio, a o Manduši sam čuo. Vele da nitko tako lijepo ne zvoni u Lotrščaku kao ona.

‐ Da ste Gričanin, već biste se bili rastopili. Pod njezinom rukom zvono u tornju pjeva kao ptica u zraku. A kad zvoni za vatru i đavo bi došao da gasi! Od svoga djetinjstva zvoni ona, umjesto oca. Kad ona u toranj, ljudi je gledaju i šapću: ide kneževica Manduša, pjesmozvonica!...”

5. ANTUN GUSTAV Matoš: Utjeha kose

Gledo sam te sinoć. U snu. Tužan. Mrtvu. U dvorani kobnoj, u idili cvijeća, Na visokom odru, u agoniji svijeća, Gotov da ti predam život kao žrtvu.

Nisam plako. Nisam. Zapanjen sam stao U dvorani kobnoj, punoj smrti krasne, Sumnjajući da su tamne oči jasne Odakle mi nekad bolji život sjao.

Sve baš, sve je mrtvo: oči, dah i ruke, Sve što očajanjem htjedoh da oživim U slijepoj stravi i u strasti muke,

U dvorani kobnoj, mislima u sivim. Samo kosa tvoja još je bila živa Pa mi reče: Miruj! U smrti se sniva

Once upon a time…in Europe! 32

4. MARIJA JURIĆ ZAGORKA: DAUGTHER OF LOTRŠČAK

“…In the bottom of the tavern appeared a girl in a pink dress. She is young and fresh. Her cheaks are roses of spring, eyes two dewy daisies. Goldilocks’ braids shine down her shoulders as if she had braided them up of the golden rays of Sun. She is young and pink as twigs of a young apricot are when it blossoms in the spring. Needle stood up and proudly said:

‐ You know, Grich has two landmarks: Mandusha and my penmanship. Tomica laughed and replied:

‐ Your penmanship I saw, and about Mandusha I’ve heard. They say nobody rings the bell of Lotrščak as beautifuly as she does.

‐ If you were a Grich man, you would have already been melted. Under her hand a bell in the tower sings like a bird in the air. And when she rings the fire alarm even the devil would come to put it out! From her childhood she has been ringing instead of her father. When she goes to the tower, people are watching her and whispering: ‘’there goes Lady Mandusha, a songringer!...’’

5. ANTUN GUSTAV Matoš: A sonnet

Last night I had a sad dream – you were dead. The mournful hall. The flowers' idyllic grace. The candles flickering round your resting place. And my regret I had not died instead.

I did not weep. Bewildered and alone I stood amidst death's glory in the hall And doubted your dear eyes were dead at all Those eyes in which so much of life had shone.

Yet all was dead: the eyes, the hands, the breath: All that I, grief – struck, wished could live again With our blind passion and with passion’s pain.

But in my grey thoughts contemplating death Your hair alone still seemed to live and say: ‘’peace be with you – when dead, we dream away.’’

Once upon a time…in Europe! 33

6. ANTUN GUSTAV MATOŠ: SJENA

Ja volim tužnu sjenu, uspavano svijetlo: svijetlo, što sniva o noći. Ja volim sjenu, bliznicu toplog sunca i hladnog mjeseca. Ja volim sjenu, vječnu moju posestrimu i pratilicu, što spava kraj mene i hoda kraj mene, tamna moja slika i karikatura. Da, ja volim sjenu, žutu, sivu, crnu, žalosnu i kao smrt tihu sjenu. Sve, sve je sjena. Svijet je sjena. I sunce je sjena mističnog sunca. I život je sjena tajnovitog života. Sjena je kolijevka. Sjena je grob. Kad ne bijah, bijah sjena. Kada me ne bude, bit ću sjena. Ja sam sjena od onoga, što bijah, i od onoga, što ću biti, sjena između danas i sutra, sjena između dvije sjenaste vječnosti. Misao je sjena. Svijet je sjena. Sve, sve je sjena. Sjena je veća od svijetla, kao moja sjena što je uveče veća od oranice mog djeda. Pšenično i zrno čovjekovo klije u sjeni i gine u sjeni. Život se diže iz sjene, luta u sjeni, iščezava u sjeni. Mi smo sjene.

Sjeno, mekano uzglavlje svijetla! Sjeno, crna posteljo života! I kad ugasnu planeti, ti ćeš biti carica svijeta. Ja te volim, Sjeno, čista, tiha boginjo! Digni svoj mekani magloviti, zlatnim tajnama protkani plašt i pokrij mi umorne oči, da ih sklopim i da zagrlim svoju sjenu.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 34

6. ANTUN GUSTAV MATOŠ: SHADOW

I love the mournful shadow, the dozing light: light which dreams of the night. I love the shadow, twin sister of the warm sun and of the cold moon. I love the shadow, my eternal adopted sister and companion which slumbers beside me, walks near me, my dark picture and my caricature. Yes, I love the shadow, yellow, grey, black; the shadow, sad and silent as death. All, all is shadow. The world is a shadow. And the sun is a shadow of a mystical sun. And life is the shadow of a mystical life. The shadow is a cradle. The shadow is a grave. Before my existence I was but a shadow. And, when I cease to be, I shall be a shadow. I am the shadow of that which I was and of that which I shall be: a shadow between two eternities of haze. All is shadow. The shadow is larger than light, as it is greater at evening than the fields of my grandfather. Wheat and grain spring up in the shadow and die in shadow. Life arises from shadow, wanders in the shadow, and disappears into the shadow. We are shadows. ... Shadow, thou soft pillow of light: Shadow, thou black bed of life! And when once the planets extinguish, you will remain the empress of life. I love you, Shadow, pure silent goddess: lift up your soft mantle of fog streaked with golden secrets, and cover my weary eyes, to close them to embrace my shadow.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 35

7. Vladimir VidrIĆ: „Dva PejzaŽA“

1

U travi se žute cvjetovi I zuje zlaćane pčele, Za sjenatim onim stablima Krupni se oblaci bijele.

I nebo se plavi visoko Kud nečujno laste plove; — Pod brijegom iz crvenih krovova Podnevno zvono zove.

A dalje iza tih krovova Zlatno se polje stere, Valovito, mirno i spokojno — I s huma se k humu vere...

2

Nebeski putnik mjesec Lako je odskakivo Nad svijetlim oblačnim rubom I opet u nebo plivo.

I kad sam otvorio prozor, Blistav od kapi kiše, Trznula se je grana I još se lagano njiše.

"Gledaj ‐ glas mi se javi ‐ Iskrice noći lete..." l vidjeh u rosnom grmlju, Gdje blisnuv ‐ ginu i ‐ svijete.

"Tko mi to kaza?" ‐ viknuh, Al grmlje i bašta sniva, Tek mjesec nad svijetlim rubom Naglije hiti i pliva.

"Zdravstvuj!" ‐ i smijeh se pronije. Il prosu se šaka pijeska? Ja ne znam. ‐ Na mokrih stazah Tiha se voda ljeska...

Once upon a time…in Europe! 36

7. Vladimir VidrIĆ: „TWO LANDSCAPEs“

LANDSCAPE

Flowers in the grass of the meadow The buzzing of golden bees; From behind those shady branches White clouds peer through the trees.

The sky gleams blue high above me Where swallows noiselessly glide; From the roofs down in the walley The bell announces noontide.

And beyond those red‐roofed homesteads The fields roll golden and still – In tranquil folds and swellings There rises hill after hill.

THE BAY

When the last ray of sunlight shivers – as a spear Stubs to lifeblood, by some furious giant cast, Over the water’s face a secret sigh has passed, And the wave’s wait at eve sounds muffled to our ear.

Amidst the vale, the quiet Night has made her seat And where the rocks arise, ‐ and now has loosed her hair She scatters myriad stars on groves of seawood there Which from those deeps unseen are surging to her feet.

Behild how, all unveiled and glittering, rocks the bay, While from her boulder watches Night, alone and dumb. From somewhere far among the gullies, murmurs come Of water, where lamenting softly dies away.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 37

8. Tin UjeviĆ: Notturno

Noćas se moje čelo žari, noćas se moje vjeđe pote; i moje misli san ozari, umrijet ću noćas od ljepote.

Duša je strasna u dubini, ona je zublja u dnu noći; plačimo, plačimo u tišini, umrimo, umrimo u samoći.

9.IVAN GUNDULIĆ: DUBRAVKA

O liepa, o draga, o slatka slobodo, dar u kom sva blaga višnji nam Bog je do, uzroče istini od naše sve slave, uresu jedini od ove Dubrave, sva srebra, sva zlata, svi ljudcki životi ne mogu bit plata tvoj čistoj lipoti.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 38

8. Tin UjeviĆ: Nocturne

Tonight, my forehead gleams and sweat drips in each eye; my thoughts blaze through dreams, tonight, of beauty I shall die.

The soul’s core is pure passion, deep in the pit of night, a blazing cone. Hush, weep in silence. Let us weep and let us die. We’ll die alone.

9. IVAN GUNDULIĆ: DUBRAVKA

Fair liberty, beloved liberty, liberty sweetly avowed, thou are the treasured gift that God to us endowed, all our glory is thy true creation, to our Home thou are all the decoration, no silver nor gold, not life itself could replace the reward of thy pure and sublime grace.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 39

10. IVANA BRLIĆ MAŽURANIĆ: ŠUMA STRIBOROVA

…Dalo se baki na čudo, što je ovo ovako u noći, i ona ude u kuhinju. Kad ona tamo, ali ono se na ognjištu istom rasplamsale luči, a oko plamena zaigrali kolo »Domaći«, sve sami mužići od jedva po lakta. Na njima kožusi, kapice i opančići crveni kao plamenovi, kosa i brada sive kao pepeo, a oči žarke kao živi ugljen. Izlazi njih sve više i više iz plamena, svaka luč po jednog daje. Kako izlaze, tako se smiju i vrište, prebacuju se po ognjištu, cikću od veselja i hvataju se u kolo.

Pa zaigra kolo: po ognjištu, po pepelu, pod policu, na stolicu, po ćupu, na klupu! Igraj! Igraj! Brzo! Brže! Cikću, vrište, guraju se i krevelje. Sol prosuše, kvas proliše, brašno rastepoše ‐ sve od velike radosti. Vatra na ognjištu plamsa i sjaji, pucka i grije; a baka gleda i gleda. Nije joj žao ni soli ni kvasca, nego se raduje veselju, što joj ga Bog šalje na utjehu…

11. Dobriša CesariĆ: VoĆKA POSLIJE KIŠE

Gle malu voćku poslije kiše: Puna je kapi pa ih njiše. I bliješti suncem obasjana, Čudesna raskoš njenih grana. Al nek se sunce malko skrije, Nestane sve te čarolije. Ona je opet kao prvo, Obično, jadno, malo drvo.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 40

10. IVANA BRLIĆ MAŽURANIĆ: Stibor’s forrest

…The old woman wondered what on earth was going on there in the dark, and went into the kitchen. And when she got there the kindling‐chips just flared up on the hearth, and round the flame there was Brownies dancing in a ring‐all tiny little men no bigger then half an ell. They wore little fur coats; their caps and shoes were red as flames: their beards were gray as ashes, and their eyes sparkled like live coal.

More and more of them danced out of the flames, one of each chip. And as they appeared they laughed and chirped, turned somersaults on the hearth, twittered with glee, and then took hands and danced in a ring.

And how they danced! Round the hearth, in the ashes, under the cupboard, on the table, in the jug, on the chair! Round and round! Faster and faster! They chirped and they chattered, chased and romped all over the place. They scattered the salt; they split the barm; they upset the flour – all for sheer fun. The fire on the hearth blazed and shone, crackled and glowed; and the old woman gazed and gazed. She never regretted the salt nor the barm, but was glad of the jolly little folk whom God had sent to comfort her…’

11. Dobriša CesariĆ: A FRUIT TREE AFTER THE RAIN

You see that small tree after rain? 'Tis full of drops; and fragrant, vain, It glitters in the sunny rays With all its branches, leaves and sprays. The sun is hidden, though, lo – That brilliant magic had to go. There stands again for all to see A tiny, miserable tree.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 41

12. Antun mihanoviĆ: Horvatska domovina

Lěpa naša domovino, Oj junačka zemljo mila, Stare slave dědovino, Da bi vazda čestna bila!

Mila, kano si nam slavna, Mila si nam ti jedina, Mila, kuda si nam ravna, Mila, kuda si planina!...

Teci, Sava hitra, teci Nit’ ti Dunaj silu gubi, Kud li šumiš, světu reci: Da svog’ doma Horvat ljubi,

Dok mu njive sunce grije, Dok mu hrastje bura vije, Dok mu mertve grob sakrije, Dok mu živo serdce bije!

Once upon a time…in Europe! 42

12. Antun mihanoviĆ: CROATIAN HOMELAND

Our beautiful homeland, O so fearless and gracious, Our father's ancient glory, May you be blessed forever.

Beloved, how glorious you are, You are beloved, our only one, Beloved, wherever you are plain, Beloved, wherever you are mountain!

Flow, fast Sava, flow, Nor you Danube, lose your power, Wherever you're murmuring, tell the world: That a Croat loves his home,

Whilst the sun warms his fields, Whilst winds lash his oak trees, Whilst his lost ones grave covers, Whilst his living heart beats.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 43

13. Dragutin tadijanoviĆ: PJESMA O ČOVJEKU I SUNCU

Zaogrnuv tamni plašt, Čekat ću osvitak dana. I poći zatim na pute daleke: Kroz dozrela polja i livade zelene, Preko voda, planina, dolina, Do devetoga brda. A Sunce još neće Planuti na mene! No kad stupim na vrh, Izaći će Sunce, veliko, sjajno, I zaliti mene, Vječnoga Bježača, Srebrnim i zlatnim zrakama. Pružit će se moja sjenka Duboko. Stajat ću na vrhu dugo, dugo, dugo. Sunce će me milovati blagim rukama, A ja ću biti na vrhu sam. Zaviknut će grlo moje Suncu: Pobijedio sam mrak, Savladao sam žalost... Sad sam radostan, jak. Vječan sam kao i ti, Sunce! Najzad ću početi da se spuštam, lagano, S vrha u dolinu. Sunce će me pratiti neprestano. Moja će sjenka bivati sve manja, Sve tanja: Nestajat će me, polako, u dolu. Pa ću se okrenuti vječitom Suncu I pogledati na vrh: Ugledat ću Drugoga Čovjeka Gdje ide mojim stopama; Čovjeku ću se nasmijati, A Suncu šapnuti, malen: Tko može s tobom, Sunce? Nestat će mene I moje sjene U dolini mraka.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 44

13. Dragutin tadijanoviĆ: A SONG ABOUT A MAN AND THE SUN

Wrapped in a dark cloak, I shall wait for the break of day, Through ripe cornfields and green meadows, And then shall I set out on a far journey By waters, mountains, valleys, Till I come to the ninth hilltop… But the sun will not yet Burst upon me. Yet when I reach the summit, Then will the Sun rise, great and brilliant, He will shower upon me, the Eternal Wayfarer, His rays of gold and silver. Then will my shadow grow Deeper and deeper. I shall stand upon the peak for a long, long time. And the sun will caress me with gentle hands, And I shall be alone in that high place, And my throat will cry out to the Sun: I have conquered darkness, I have overcome sorrow, Now am I joyous, strong, I am eternal like you, O Sun. Gradually then shall I descend From the heights to the valley And always thte Sun Will be my companion. My shadow will grow smaller, Always more slender: Slowly I shall fade away int he valley. Then shall I turn to the Eternal Sun, Glancing back toward the summit, Catch the glimpse of Another Man Walking in my footsteps. And I shall smile at this man And I shall whisper softly to the Sun: ''Who can be with you, O Sun?'' My shadow and I Shall fade away, lost In the darkness oft he Valley.

Once upon a time…in Europe! 45

14. ANTUN BRANKO ŠIMIĆ: Opomena

Čovječe pazi da ne ideš malen ispod zvijezda! Pusti da cijelog tebe prođe blaga svjetlost zvijezda! Da ni za čim ne žališ kad se budeš zadnjim pogledima rastajo od zvijezda! Na svom koncu mjesto u prah prijeđi sav u zvijezde!

Once upon a time…in Europe! 46

14. ANTUN BRANKO ŠIMIĆ: WARNING

Man, take care Not to walk small Under the stars! Let the soft light of the stars penetrate all of you! So that you regret nothing When with your last glance You take leave of the stars! At the end Instead of dust Turn all of you into stars!

Once upon a time…in Europe! 47