Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Summer 2016

Islands aplenty See our secret getaways Bekim Sejranović The journey of a people’s writer

N°16 - complimentary copy Home of rijeka.inyourpocket.com Apoxyomenos Where the Greek became Croat

Contents

ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES

Foreword 6 Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife 33 A warm welcome from our editor in chief What better way to relax

Arrival & Getting Around 7 Sightseeing 37 Lost? Help is at hand City landmarks and monuments

Rijeka Basics 10 Rijeka Surroundings 47 Making your stay stress free Museums, beaches and islands

Croatia’s Secret Islands 11 Health Tourism 52 Enjoy tranquility Recreation all-round

Culture & Events 14 Shopping 59 All you need is your pencil and diary Why not pamper yourself

Restaurants 22 Hotels 61 Crème de le crème of where to eat Places to stay for every pocket Local Flavour 29 Maps Flavoursome dishes and feverish food Street index / City centre map 62 markets with best of the foodies City map 64

Apoxyomenos Archives, Photo by Maja Bosnić & Ivan Dorotić

“Kaleidoscope Room”, the lookout at the top of the museum, a room where the ceiling mirror reflects the different sequences of Lošinj’s port

facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 7 Foreword Arrival & Getting Around Coming to Rijeka, you would pronounce that as ree-ye- ka, then you’ve arrived to one of ’s largest cities, By plane the third largest in-fact @InYourPocketand it is very much a port city. At Stay up-to-date (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on is- this time of year, Rijeka is a definite transit city with visi- facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket land serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, tors stopping by from north to south, or vice-versa. City Publisher but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, folk live and love their seaside; it is their breath of life and a Plava Ponistra d.o.o., an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toi- way of life. For the complete riječko iskustvo (Rijeka experi- ISSN 1845-5514 lets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: ence), we’ve packed invine.co/inyourpocket as much info as possible to make Autotrans buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg the most of your stay. Do visit our feature on Croatia’s Secret Company OfficeWhat’s & Accounts going on? bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for Islands, superb getaways for shorter or longer periods of Višnja Arambašić Rijeka facebook.com/??City??InYourPocketIn Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport. stay which include places of seclusion, or places for a social Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 shindig. Another feature is our ’10 gifts for hungry loved [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com Rijeka Airport ones’ which are so tempting that we cannot guarantee Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 20 they’ll even reach your loved ones, and ‘Deck your home Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja 40/(+385-51) 84 12 22, [email protected], with Croatian goods’, both of which offer plenty of souvenir Editorial Where’s the party? www.rijeka-airport.hr. Open 07:00 - 19:00, October - ideas for long lasting memories or gifts. Also and FYI, the Editor facebook.com/??City??InYourPocketVišnja Arambašić March Open Mon - Fri 07:00 - 13:00. youtube.com/inyourpocket Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jona- city of Rijeka was recently announced as the European City than Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, of Culture 2020, a great feat and prestigious achievement Roman Šimić Bodrožić European Coastal Airlines in which the city is working towards. Back on track, we also Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the have a feature interview with Bekim Sejranović, a Croatian Assistant Editor AllBlanka the Valić latest news islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily writer who livespinterest.com/inyourpocket between Rijeka and Oslo which we hope Community Manager Eli Gajinov hydroplane transfers. With these multiple flight connec- Designfacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Bojan - Haron Markičević you’ll enjoy reading. Our feature on local specialties and Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated tions throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some dishes should also contribute to your pleasant stay as the Cover Kantrida Swimming Pools - Rijeka Sport Archives of the most secluded islands along the coastline. food here is something you’ll miss once you’ve gone home. Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife As we bid you Fulla farewell, contents may your online: Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov and running in Kvarner:​ stay in our city be a memorable one. Rijeka Read more reviews online: Happy summer??city??.inyourpocket.com holidays! Summer 2016 Copyright notice Seaside Airport Text, maps??city??.inyourpocket.com and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps cop- Šetalište kapetana Ivana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385- yright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publica- Rijeka Tourist Board Archives tion may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the 51) 21 41 87, [email protected], www.ec-air.eu COverMore ??chapter?? story reviews online: purpose of review, without written permission from the publish- ??city??.inyourpocket.com er and copyright owner.Not The listed brand here?name In Your Pocket is used Seaside Airport office: Open 05:30 - 22:30; June 20 - September 10 Open Islands aplenty See our secret under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Bird’s-eye view of the Olympic getaways Over 250 ??chapter?? reviews online: Riva 1/A, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, [email protected], 24/7, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to Bekim Sejranović Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Rijeka (Croatia) In Your Pocket The journey of a swimming pool at Rijeka’s famous people’s writer www.ec-air.eu contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside N°16 - complimentary copy is not responsible for any information which might change after rijeka.inyourpocket.com Home of ??city??.inyourpocket.com Apoxyomenos opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during Kantrida Swimming Pools. Where the Greek publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt. became Croat ​FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, summer it’s best to reserve in advance. Changing money: Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): ABOUT IYP Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at tel. (+385-51) 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station the other locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the building and is open 06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the sta- In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading pub- airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting tion. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The lisher of locally-produced city guides sin- souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. ESTONIA ce 1992, recently launched a brand new products. Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are LATVIA smartphone app: In Your Pocket City the addresses mentioned above, where they will also have calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu. taxi companies). IRELAND BELARUS During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open NETHERLANDS venues and sights alongside essential even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online Central Coach Station UKRAINE travel information, these city guides BELGIUM CZECH at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) REPUBLIC have been carefully crafted by our lo- docks.QŠetalište kapetana Ivana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. QC‑2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 20 10/(+385-51) AUSTRIA cal editors and include only the places SWITZERLAND GEORGIA (+385-51) 21 41 87, [email protected], www.ec-air.eu. 66 06 60, [email protected], www.autotrans.hr. SLOVENIACROATIA they are happy to recommend. The BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO app - available on both iOS and Android FYR MACEDONIA By bus By train - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ app on your smartphone to download it. Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need. kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inex- DUTCH To keep up with all that’s new at In Your everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method pensive way to travel. The HŽ (Croatian Railways) website CARIBBEAN SOUTH of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices AFRICA Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian and connections for domestic and international routes. destinations are served, as well as a growing number of Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket of- com/inyourpocket). foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket fice including the international (međunarodni) and do- 8 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 9 Arrival & Getting Around Arrival & Getting Around

way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Medi- terranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the By car Taxi coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fi- Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms. right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of ume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re all islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre. From reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you’ll pay 5 - to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across. Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bis- 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage. Prices for longer trica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which trips (over 15km) by agreement. Jadroagent drops directly down into Rijeka. From Zagreb: The E65 / QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the Auto taxi Rijeka [email protected], www.travel.jadroagent.hr. Open signs where motorways merge at . The motorway QN‑1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-) Rijeka Tourist Board Archives 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. toll costs 70kn in one direction, payable in most currencies 099 700 30 43. and credit cards. If you are headed to islands take the exit Jadrolinija at Oštrovica. From Split: We recommend taking the new Cammeo Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 QR‑3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 12 12 (press 3), , Rab and , and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for to Rijeka. The coast road is spectacular, and great if you [email protected], www.taxi-cammeo.hr. local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. can be fatal. Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in Kvarner taxi For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be Qtel. (+385-51) 30 13 01. advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the travelling. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr. service. ATM outside. Timetable in the window.QC‑3, Towed away Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this 21 14 44, [email protected], www.jadrolinija.hr. Car rental happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Dollar & Thrifty bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street A. K. Miošića - it’s October - May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun QC‑2, Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-) 098 46 behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. Open 06:30 - 21:00, 11:00 - 15:00. 92 32, [email protected], www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 Sat 06:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. There’s always someone on Photo by Marša Gajinov - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 500kn to re- Losinia claim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card. mestic window, Open 05:15 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21 33 Venezia-lines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Hertz 33 or international (+385-51) 21 13 04. You can buy tickets Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 10 77/(+385-51) 23 30 40, QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk (Rijeka Airport), tel. (+385-) 091 Photo by Marša Gajinov on board out of hours, but it’s best to reserve in advance [email protected], www.losinia.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. 311 09 85, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 for international journeys. Changing money: There’s a October - May Open 08:00 - 13:00. - 14:00. A cash machine en route to the Zagreb platform and 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small Rapska plovidba exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports. Check Parking station. Left luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 - 23:30, cost: the sailing schedule for Kiosks open hours.QHrvatskih Street parking/SMS Parking 15 - 20kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean. branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) Different zones have different max waiting times - check Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1. 72 41 22, [email protected], www.rapska- carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are 4 - 10 kunas per hour. Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in plovidba.hr. Pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard. 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to . tourist information Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051- Public transport if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting Tourist Information Center The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s cen- Around for other cab companies). QD‑2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, info@ tral bus stops are at Jelačićev trg and Delta Terminal. They visitRijeka.hr, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open Mon - Sat connect all the points you need, the city centre with Central Train Station 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From September and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) 15 Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Kvarner coast, and places inland such as . Buy tickets QA‑2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two 060 33 34 44/(+385-51) 21 33 33, [email protected], Kvarner Info - trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets www.hzpp.hr. The Gateway to the Adriatic bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on QĆikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+385- any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51. 51) 62 88 88, [email protected], www.kvarner.hr. By boat June 14 - September 20 Open 08:00 - 20:00. Sep- Autotrolej An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the tember - June Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00. QŠkoljić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00/060 15 11 51, grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their [email protected], www.autotrolej.hr. 10 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 11 Rijeka Basics Croatia’s Secret Islands Now that you’ve arrived and settled, get a brief introduc- Although there is little street crime, of course it is always tion into some of the expectations and abiding rules one wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings. should follow - things that are part of everyday life to Rijeka citizens. From cash currency, tips, smoking laws, national holidays and who to call if something goes wrong. Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does Customs mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish- As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no long- ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend- er custom limits between member states or tax return. For ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits other non-member states we recommend you to follow or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces info at www.porezna-uprava.hr. including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re pre- Disabled travellers pared to move inside. Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a Toilets loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the the park of the modern bridge (F-2). streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re plan- ning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in Island , Mali Lošinj Tourist Board Archives relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to Visas organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible. Since Croatia had become the member of the European Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there Silba Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hidea- escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of Electricity and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citi- ways where you can find your own personal paradise. relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the zens of states that require visas to enter other EU member romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, be- Since the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks you’ll find cal appliances. fore visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy Susak a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower, the in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing round flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities through- local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving sailor Money out Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even for his love back home. Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it. had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for con- scene, so you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia. valescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese performances. There’s a gallery of sculpture by Marija Ujević- all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First World Galetović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you War tourism halted and never really picked up again. Which with the human form. Silba’s pristine beaches recall the is- should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash Water means that the island remains utterly unspoilt. land’s silvery name with shimmering shingle beaches and you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered shallow coves ideal for children. The waters are an unusually you put it on plastic could be a problem. with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds planted by vivid turquoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation. farmers to prevent erosion. There are no roads, only sandy When things go wrong paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is sur- Roads Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka sig- prisingly fertile and was once well known for its wine, an Prvić When behind the wheel drivers must always have their nificantly lower than most of . Nevertheless, you industry which is slowly being revived. With no cars and Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In those shallow sandy bays it’s a paradise for families with National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Ka- Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s small children. There are no hotels, but you can rent a room prije and the and Plitvice National Parks inland. Prvić is and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- wide Emergency Number (+385)112 which then trans- or private apartment. Come summer you’ll find yourself small and perfectly formed, with two settlements and no hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in fers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending joined by a host of Americans, returning emigrants and cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking onion- urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on the city district, in case you were involved in an ac- their offspring. Pensioners returning to live out their days domed church. There are lovely bathing spots with views on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they cident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest on the island are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to over the surrounding islands and the mountains on the say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. police station. In that case, contact your embassy or con- the architecture. Other visitors include women who come coast. Among the children who have been lucky to spend sulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka Gen- to bury themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, re- their summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the Croa- eral Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything puted to restore fertility. tian Leonardo da Vinci. A linguist, historian, mathematician Safety necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume and physicist, he was the inventor of the parachute and You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in com- road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely one of the creator of the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models parison with most Western European cities, even at night. the sea call (+385) 195. more intriguing Croatian islands! of his inventions in the local museum. 12 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 13 Croatia’s Secret Islands Croatia’s Secret Islands

Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the cake to his island beloved on his departure with the words yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on Šolta pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig, “n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised as lum- bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant blija, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can order plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been almost smaller hotels and decent restaurants. a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korčula, iskrav- Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, [email protected] completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people [email protected], tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07. com.hr, www.pag.hr. Open: Until June 20th 09:30 - 12:00 looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the pas- and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 sage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta built 10 Gifts for Hungry Krk Island Pršut - 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30. her palace on the hillside at Senjska cove on the south side Loved Ones To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why genera- Lipa Rugs Nečujam to build fish farms. More recently, oligarchs and One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So tions of Krk islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made millionaires have been seeking refuge in a 16th century wa- what better gift for those back home than something to a product that varies depending on the environment and using traditional island techniques from remnants of fab- terside castle at Maslinica that has been transformed into a nibble? the recipe, so it’s different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut ric from manufacturing folk costumes. These rugs can be breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its at the Žužić butcher’s shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+385- used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor. own beautiful little marina. Ground Wild Fennel 51) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00 Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvić island Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought The rocky plains of are covered in the grey stems - 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh, at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84, to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts. and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00, [email protected]. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for fla- Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00). visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In vouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact (+385-) the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress. Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent exhibition of 91 588 84 09, [email protected]. Salt Petals work by famous artists that were born in Šolta. Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as Stone Pestle and Mortar Grisinia they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a The Elafiti Islands of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grind- meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of island life and a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in from and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick ing spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D hop over to the city when you fancy. Each island is a lit- Ivan Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98. up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098 tle treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of times past had Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected 907 04 68, [email protected], also in Split in the their summer homes here, lending the islands echoes of Olive Leaf Tea shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre the Renaissance. Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus of Korčula town. supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a Macaroni Needles Koločep traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cui- Kunjska spara The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers pick up in Paška sirana cheese shops around the country or sine is goulash served with home-made pasta such as A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its neigh- on the island of Pag in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open makaruni na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They bours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo each have Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00. produce an slender tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and sandy beaches. The island is very green, with abundant ol- bakery, Gundulićeva 4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 still do) carry on their heads on their return home from ives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches in Porat and The Captain’s Cookies - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66 36 57, or during the summer the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket to open air Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Mandra and Stara Novalja Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45, concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water! the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on (Open 07:00 - 19:00). [email protected]. their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at Lopud the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, mon- (Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries. Con- Deck Your Home With asteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park tact: [email protected], tel. (+385-) 98 165 07 77 right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting Marija Antunović. Croatian Goods fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the Wool Slippers from Cres Island Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Pag and Brač Island Cheese Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye is Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia, gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with cau- with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta tion) the disused modernist Grand Hotel. Lopud has one of country. Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora brands. Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj bay. A handful of Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and en- lovely stone villas have been turned into small hotels with to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal vironmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a, excellent accommodation and good restaurants. product made in small quantities. But it is well worth Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, [email protected], www. the effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supe- ruta-cres.hr. Šipan tar, Brač, [email protected], tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98, The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, you (+385-) 91 594 52 79. Pag, Lepoglava and hvar Lace can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a soul. Šipan The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepo- boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 historic summer Lumblija glava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of villas. With two settlements this island has a bus service! Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska Luka must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was ap- visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service. parently the recipe of a French soldier who presented a modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an authentic Ruta Cres, Photo by Igor Njhausler 14 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 15 Culture & Events Culture & Events an impression, works that are always ready to be critiqued jazz soloists and groups in the region strutting their tunes. and works adapted to contemporary art practice.QE‑2, Qwww.jazztimerijeka.com. Principij Gallery, Pod voltun 4, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr.

15.07 Friday - 27.07 Wednesday Special events Croatia from the Air 16.06 Thursday - 02.09 Friday See a photo monograph which is a result of seven years Summer Beer Garden in Guver of recording Croatia from the air by travel guru, writer and The Governor’s Palace is located at the gardens of the photographer Davor Rostuhar. National Geographic gave Maritime and History Museum of , the it the thumbs up with photos of natural and cultural land- perfect setting for a Sat/Sun summer sizzler! Every week- marks aplenty. Touring exhibitions in the open will be set end you’ll find an outdoor party atmosphere with dedi- in Lošinj .QMali Lošinj, www.hrvatskaizzraka.com. cation given to beer choice as there has been a surge in beer culture and craft beer of late. Plenty of food, fun, and 19.08 Friday - 02.09 Friday live performances!QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, www.facebook. Friends of the Sea – The Blue Hour com/pivskivrtguver. For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract 01.07 Friday - 22.07 Friday over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compilation of 60 Rijeka Summer Nights large-format photographs taken during the ‘blue hour’ i.e. Performances, philharmonics, film, opera, theatre, and early evening after sunset or early in the morning, just before concerts from jazz to world music ensure that there is dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the Adriatic are set to inspire, something to tickle everyone’s taste buds. Escape the admire, and unearth a desire of love and respect for one of the heat and chill amidst a variety of events where artistic most beautiful coastlines in the world. The works have been creation is the formula for relaxation.QVarious loca- selected by the expert team of the festival ‘Rovinj-Photodays’. tions, hnk-zajc.hr/rljn. Tickets 50 - 150kn available at QD‑2, Korzo, www.prijateljimora.com. the Croatian National Theatre Box Office, Verdieva 5a, (+385-51) 33 71 14, [email protected] and www. Festival Kvarner Archives 19.08 Friday - 16.09 Friday kulturaplus.com. Zlatko Prica – 100 years of Prica – Retro- Exhibitions national and eight national authors use different meth- spective exhibition 02.07 Friday - 03.09 Saturday 14.04 Thursday - 16.09 Friday odologies in sharing a common understanding of sport May we introduce an unavoidable figure of Croatian mod- Summer on Gradina (R)evolution at the Rijeka City Museum as a context that is neither fixed, nor given, but requires ern painting, a great artist and scholar who once stated Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then Believe it or not, the city museum once bore the name the constant questioning and self-organisation, and most of that painting is ‘serious business’. Prica established a re- at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this Museum of National Revolution, a very communist title all, the ability to imagine viable alternatives.QD‑2, Mali sounding international career and on the occasion of the year’s program, visitors will be able to enjoy the existing from the former . Nowadays, the new genera- salon, Korzo 24, www.mmsu.hr. centenary of his birth, numerous monographs and sym- conceptual program placed around different parts of the tion know little of that period and this event highlights the posiums will vindicate how he himself, set the highest fortress, as well as drama plays, music events, workshops times through objects, artefacts, and other products. It 14.07. 2016 Thursday - 28.02. 2017 Tuesday of expectations.QC‑2, Modern and Contemporary Art and presentations. This is the 11th edition and the ac- also presents the horrors of such rule, the tortures of Goli Giants of Patagonia Museum, Dolac 1/II, www.mmsu.hr. tion kicks off on July 1st with the event in 3000 candles Otok where people were imprisoned. A very opinionative, Kids, adults, all those who love dinosaurs, prepare to em- and lasts until September 3rd. Just being up on Trsat is a reflective, and interpretive exhibit!QD‑1, City Museum of bark on a journey filled with replicas of giant dinosaur skel- 20.09 Tuesday - 20.10 Thursday breath taking experience!QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb, www. Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. etons made after authentic fossil specimens discovered at OnePapaya Day With… photos by: Stanislav trsatskagradina.com. Patagonia, as well as original-sized models of dinosaurs; Belička 19.05 Thursday - 21.12 Wednesday the skeletons of the greatest carnivore ever to walk the As the title states, the author Stanislav Belička recorded 16.07 Saturday - 31.07 Sunday The First in the World – 150 Years of the Earth (Giganotosaurus carolinii), the biggest animal claw in one day the photographs of Croatian and German art- Spajalica (Paperclip) - Artistic interven- Rijeka Torpedo ever discovered, flying reptiles as well as reptiles inhabit- ists accompanied by videos. The artists are Bruno Paladin, tions in public space You are home to the torpedo, one of the greatest 19th ing the seas. Its mega packed with educational corners Tomislav Pavletić, Igor Zlatkov, Mirko Zrinšćak, and Armin Three very different people that share one thing in com- century inventions and fans will be able to see fifty origi- for the littlies and some exhibits are adjusted to the blind Appel. The exhibition is a multimedia portrait consisting mon, ‘street art’! Sebas Valesco (Spain) focuses on illustra- nal objects, torpedoes, launching tubes, different types and visually-impaired.QF‑3, Exportdrvo ex-warehouse of photos and videos in which individual artists talk about tive backgrounds with realistic elements shown close up, of gyroscopes, direction and speed indicators, equip- at Delta, Grobnička riva bb, www.prirodoslovni.com. the reasons for his action and imaginative creation.QD‑1, shadowy indeed. Lonac (Croatia) is best known for using ment for testing torpedoes, instruments, parts of a tor- Admission 40 - 60kn. City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzej- real life objects and repainting them to cause a reality ef- pedo, a model of the first Whitehead torpedo, as well as rijeka.hr. fect. And finally Selma Selmani () a model of a launching station and numerous screenings. 14.07 Thursday - 30.08 Tuesday is a visual artist whose work is characterised by the poetics Why? Because Rijeka is the city where the torpedo was Photo Exhibition from the Fotoklub of resistance against discrimination, indifference, and lack of invented!QD‑1, City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, Rijeka archives Jazz Concert compassion.QD‑2, Mali salon, Korzo 24, www.mmsu.hr. www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Over 80 years in existence, Fotoklub Rijeka stays true to 03.11 Thursday - 05.11 Saturday its ethos by always hosting dynamic and original pro- The 25th Jazz Time Rijeka Festival 05.08 Friday - 07.08 Sunday 12.07 Tuesday - 17.07 Sunday grammes, taking into account all aspects of photography An amazing feat for oganisers who have brought jazz Kostrena Sunrise Festival Contesting/contexting SPORT and creative works. The club has been in existence for over vibes to Rijeka for a quarter of a century! Individuals pas- A brand new summer festival on the calendar will be in See how creative engagement can act against the nor- eighty years both at the domestic and international scene. sionate about jazz have made their dream come true and Kostrena, a famous area known for its beautiful sandy and mativity of sport through queer expression. Fifteen inter- See archival works old and new, works that always reflect visitors to the event can expect to see some of the finest pebbled beaches! Both local and international DJs will 16 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 17 Culture & Events

pump their electronic and techno tunes till the sun rises. kastav cultural Featured so far are DJ Johnny Kaos from Italy, and Fabian summer Jakopetz, Labozz and Wide Cut from Croatia. Stay tuned for further announcements.QKostrena, www.facebook. 01.07 FRIDAY - 26.08 FRIDAY com/kostrenasunrise. From its beginnings in the 90’s when it consisted mostly of local theatre plays, one of the oldest sum- 12.08 Friday - 14.08 Sunday mer festivals of the Kvarner area has grown and Dark O Metal Festival III expanded into other art fields and now includes For the third year running, metal-heads will be bang- musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions and literary ing down the doors at the ‘Hartera’ venue with an action events, whilst also closely linked to other local and packed programme. 17 bands will perform with headliners European festivals. Culture at its finest! www.kkl.hr ‘Shirenc Plays Pungent Stench’, death metal giants ‘God Dethroned’ and ‘One Piece Puzzle’. Organisers have gone 12.07 Tuesday - 23.08 Tuesday the extra mile with tours and walks through nature, free Jazz Night transport to the nearest beach, camping, artists, humanitar- As part of the 25th Kastav Summer of Culture there ian acts and more. Keeping the metal flame burning!QF‑1, will be a series of very special jazz concerts held Hartera ex Paper Factory, Ružićeva bb, www.rirock.hr. at specific and feature locations; little squares, streets, arches and romantic stairs all with a re- 16.09 Friday - 17.09 Saturday freshing jazzacious sound. Performers include Hartera Festival ‘Trio minus one’, the ‘Spart Jazz Trio’, ‘Alba and An old torn down paper factory has become home to one Leo’, the Zvjezdan Ružić trio’ and the ‘Lela Kaplow- of the top 10 best small European Music Festivals. Stay itz duo’. tuned for line up details as amazing performers from all over the world have helped create an amazing ambience 29.07 Friday and reputation that continues to grow.QM‑3, Ul. Milutina RIJEKA Josipa Lisac feat. Lovely Quinces, Barača, www.hartera.com. Luce & Dina Razvić Josipa Lisac is one of Croatia’s superior vocals with 13.10 Thursday - 15.10 Saturday visitRijeka.hr over 40 years in the music industry, she is known Student International for her specific interpretations and unconvention- Film Festival (STIFF) al style. A voice that few can categorise or com- STIFF is Croatia’s first International Film Festival dedicated pare, yet always evolving! Lisac will be joined by entirely to student films with the purpose of strengthen- Luce and Dina Rizvić who are upcoming stars of ing the local film industry, giving an insight into the work FIUMANKA the Croatian indie scene. Trio fantastico! QCrekvi- of other filmmakers and establishing international projects na, Kastav. Concert starts at 21:00. in the field of media production. The best student film productions from all around the world will be presented. SUMMER ON GRADINA 01.08 Monday - 03.08 Wednesday QVarious locations, Rijeka, www.stiff.uniri.hr. 19th Guitar Festival There are few things sweeter then gift of music, 18.10 Tuesday RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS played by artisans and wunderkinds, and so let us Il Sogno del Marinaio feat. Mike Watt talk of the Guitar Festival. This year’s event sees A timeless musician, Watt is one of the world’s greatest bass Bebe Na Vole, Stray Dogg, Tommy Emmanuel, players who rose to fame with the California punk band Damir Halilić. Festival will end with Ana i Viktor Minutemen. Various musical projects keep him busy yet he RIJEKA ADVENT Vidović featuring sensational Darko Jurković - remains faithful to his sharp, unpredictable and complex Charlie. punk-funk music-playing trademark.QC‑2, Omladinski kul- turni centar Palach, Kružna ulica 8. Be what you want to be! Come to the 19.08 Friday Matija Dedić feat. Atma Mundi RIJEKA CARNIVAL Ensemble & F. Bearzatti. Sport Events A night of improvisation can be expected when we 12.07 Tuesday - 25.07 Monday look at the line-up! Matija Dedić is a famous Croa- European Universities Games 2016 tian jazz pianist and composer, the Atma Mundi En- Throughout 13 days in July, in the cities of Rijeka and Zagreb, semble jumble Croatian, African, and oriental music 5000 students from 45 European countries and more than from the Far East, and then there is the popular Ital- 200 Universities will compete in 21 different sports. Definitely ian saxophonist Francesco Bearzatti. It leaves the one of the most beautiful sports stories ever told in Croatia! mind buzzing with the amount of instantaneous The European Universities Games are the largest multi-sport creativeness to be heard on the night.QCrekvina, event in European university sport promoting healthy living RIJEKA TOURIST BOARD Korzo 14 FOLLOW US Kastav. Concert starts at 21:00. as well as social and cultural interaction. As the motto says, ‘Heart believes, mind achieves’.Qwww.eug2016.com. Tourist information centre [email protected] @visitRijeka +385 51 335 882 #visitRijeka #LOVERijeka #Rijeka 18 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events Culture & Events

10.09 Saturday - 18.09 Sunday secrets unravelled. See the Lumière brothers, Isadora European Junior Water Duncan, the Empress Sissi and others back in their day, opatija summer stage Polo Championships alive and in action.QVarious locations, Opatija, www. In what is one of the most physically challenging world visitopatija.com. 04.06 SATURDAY - 26.08 FRIDAY and Olympic sports, the Kantrida Sports Centre will host Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting the best Europe’s juniors have to offer. Countries appear- 04.08 Thursday - 08.08 Monday attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from ing include Belarus, Bulgaria, Montenegro, Croatia, France, 9th Kastav Blues Festival classical music through musicals and operas, to contem- Greece, Italy, Hungary, Germany, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Craving a little blues this summer! You’ll witness perfor- porary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain and the Ukraine.QSwimming mances by some amazing Croatian and international in the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for con- Pools Kantrida, Podkoludricu 2. blues performers, such as Black Coffee, Tomislav Goluban, certs by hit performers. www.festivalopatija.hr Dixieland Orchestra, Michael Messer, Ty Le Blanc and many more. The event is held annually in honour of 01.07 Friday - 03.07 Sunday Festival Opatija Archives County Events the USA country-blues musician Jerry Ricks who chose The 15th Jazz Festival 18.06 Saturday - 23.07 Saturday Kastav as his home and final resting place. By all admis- The city of Opatija and its surroundings echo the sounds The Margaret’s Summer sion, it’s free admission!QKastav, kastavbluesfest.com. of jazz each July and as you stroll around the town and A long lasting event where visitors are really given an edu- turn a corner you may see some trio performing on the cation on the Bakar’s history through age old crafts, tra- 04.09 Sunday pavement, up on a terrace, along the promenade or on ditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and The 10th Učka’s Fair the Jazz Boat sailing the Riviera. With 15 concerts and more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons Looking for some lush fresh air, then head up to the Učka many more performers, you have every reason to jazz it light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a Mountain range and in particular the protected area of the up!QOpatija, www.liburniajazz.hr. key historical battle dating back to 1616 when the Vene- Učka Nature Park for a fair topped with culture, gastrono- tians attacked the town.QBakar, www.tz-bakar.hr. my and ethnological heritage. See the local meals, prod- 20.07 Wednesday ucts, crafts, music, and costumes that have survived over The best of opera 01.07 Friday - 31.08 Wednesday time and don’t forget your camera with exceptional pan- Devotees to opera will be stunned by this line-up Opatija Old-timer Tour oramic views from up top.QUčka Nature Park, , which includes one of the most sought after sopranos Take a city bus, take a taxi, drive yourself, or why not be Poklon, www.pp-ucka.hr. of her generation Sumi Jo, and the globally acclaimed Kastav Blues Festival Archives driven in a classic old-timer and see Opatija and its sur- baritone Lucio Gallo. They will be joined by a young Ri- roundings in what is a rare experience. Drives last for ap- 16.09 Friday - 18.09 Sunday jeka soloist, mezzo-soprano Joan Srbljan and Slovenian proximately 25 minutes and are set in the evenings. Vroom The Chamber Music Festival tenor Aljaž Farasin. The orchestra and choir of the Opera vroom and its fun for the entire family!QIn front of Hotel A culmination of classical music concerts by prominent Theatre Ivan Zajc will provide the backdrop of music. Milenij, Opatija. Every Tuesday 19:30 - 22:00. names from Croatia and abroad has been held since 2004 and is growing annually. Nature by day, music by night, 22.07 Friday 08.07 Friday the natural locality has visitors going on walking tours and Tribute to Frank Sinatra International Folklore then when the sun falls, they enter the music hall which Lucio Gallo, the world famous Italian baritone is set to Festival and Customs is an intimate setting for both performer and audience. honour one of his icons, Frank Sinatra. He will be accom- Here you can find art, creativity and joy all in the one place. QRavna Gora, www.tz-ravnagora.hr. panied by the well-known Italian jazz musician Claudio Performers of all sorts will present various traditions from Chiara and his quintet of excellent musicians. Fly me to their native towns in what is expected to be a night of fun 23.09 Friday - 03.12 Saturday the moon & The Way You Look Tonight, are just some of and entertainment. Vocal and dance ensembles, choirs, so- Festival Kvarner the hits to be heard by one of America’s all-time greats! loists, musicians and players of other traditional instruments Extraordinary concerts in unordinary yet memorable will perform.QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com venues. This EU funded event combines talented 01.08 Monday - 06.08 Saturday young European musicians with renowned singers Solo Positivo Film Festival Kastav Cultiral Summer Archives 09.07 Saturday and orchestras. See a remake of Haydn’s Armida and Organisers call this the Croatian Cannes thanks to the Retropatija Orlando Paladino, to a fusion of musical genres where combo of seaside beauty and film in one. Summer 30.07 Saturday Retropatija brings us back to the 60`s, 70`s and 80`s which Klezmer meets Balkan rythmns, and Irish Folk meets Stage is set to go with the best international music Basket Tour 2016 were memorable for all in this area. In the park behind Villa Tango. Where else but in Opatija!QOpatija, www. documentary films produced over the past few years This new wave of modified basketball has become a Angiolina one can see old-timer cars with music playing festivalkvarner.com. shown on the big screen. Qwww.spff.hr. world hit and as Croatia is a basketball mad country, from their radios; dancers dressed in suits, popular drinks 16 Croatian cities will be hosting the pre national com- of that day are available and the biggest disco ball is set 28.10 Friday - 29.10 Saturday 22.08 Monday - 26.08 Friday petitions with the best teams playing off in the city of in an Open Air Theatre as a symbol of those times.QVilla Croatian Festival of klape The 14th Liburnia Film Festival Rijeka. The national champions will represent Croatia Angiolina’s park, Open Air Theatre, Opatija., www.visi- vocal groups and mandolins One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian docu- at the FIBA World Tour Masters in , Hungary. topatija.com Authentically Croatian, almost a brand in itself, klape vocal mentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visi- Tournaments will be played in 4 categories (U13, U15, groups are usually a choir of male singers who majesti- tors flocked to open-air stage in Ičići port near Opatija U18, seniors) with the best team winning valuable 16.07 Saturday cally sing traditional songs about love, the sea, voyages, last year, to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures prizes. Entries are free and can be completed on the Opatija – The Imperial Town serenading and more. From tenor to baritone, their har- and concerts add to the event with voting awards official website. This is dynamic basketball to say the History and entertainment interwoven! Opatija’s streets, monies are felt as one. Immensely popular, some klape handed out by the jury and audience alike!QIčići port, least, don’t miss the three point comp, dunking contest, corners, gardens, villas, its promenade and beaches trans- groups also include stringed instruments such as guitars www.liburniafilmfestival.com. All films are with Eng- and other attractive side events.QD‑2, Korzo, www. form into one immense stage where re-enactments of and mandolins.QSports hall Marino Cvetković, Opatija, lish subtitles and it’s a free entry for all screenings. basket-tour.com. famous people who would visit here are revived, with www.festival-klapa.com. 20 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 21 Culture & Events Culture & Events

against the bureaucracy that seems to work against how to have fun. When I was a child I would pretend to wanderers like me. I’m registered at three addresses but be Tarzan or some indian for days on end and nobody I don’t live at either of them. I’m afraid of pathos, but in would even know. fact, life is one great journey, which in my opinion isn’t Roman: Three special places: town squares, bays or about arriving at your destination as quickly as possible mountains… for Bekim the writer. (because that’s death). It’s about seeing as much as pos- Bekim: The , Rijeka and Nordmark (enormous forest sible during your adventures; meeting as many people as north of Oslo). possible; seeing new places; listening to different stories from the same places or, vice Roman: Huckleberry Finn does not want to - or can’t versa, the same stories from different places. Traveling - grow up. Is that a story of our times? And is there isn’t only about meeting other people. I’d say it’s actu- a happy ending? ally more about getting to know yourself - your true self Bekim: Modern psychologists say so. They say that es- - without the wrappings imposed on us by society and pecially for males in our times, it’s impossible to grow up. civilization. And perhaps they’re right. Because there are fifty-year- old men playing video games; not to mention our ad- Roman: You’re not only a writer. Your son, Huckle- diction to social media which is devastating our society. berry Finn, is partially based on your experiences On the other hand, what does it even mean to be grown filming a documentary about your travels from up? To take care of yourself? Be responsible? I know many Oslo, around Croatia to Bosnia, in an old VW beetle; children who are more responsible and more aware of then by boat along the Sava and . Weren’t reality than their parents. I’m the best example for both you supposed to go all the way to the Black Sea? cases: as a child and a parent. Recently I’ve been asking Bekim: Well, yeah, but as you know we never made it people what they want out of life. Everybody more or because I was the captain, tour guide, producer, man- less wants the same thing: to do something meaningful, ager, and screenwriter. But like I said earlier, the Black Sea to be financially independent, to be free, to have a roof wasn’t our goal. But that trip I’ve managed to prolong for over their head, not be hungry, have family and friends, a few years. I’m still traveling towards the Black Sea, but I to love and be loved, to give and to receive, to live in the Photo by Edi Matić need a bigger boat than the Savska Buba. moment and be strong when necessary. Life is simple. Just don’t be afraid and don’t take it too seriously. Time a writer between peculiar vibe and mentality of its people, and it’s Roman: You’ve always been a big fan of the sea and goes by; only stories are left behind. both an industrial city and a port city - unlike any swimming - you’ve been to the Norwegian fjords countries other place in Croatia. How was Rijeka then, and and the sunny islands of the Adriatic - but don’t riv- An interview with Bekim Sejranović by Roman how do you find it now? ers have their own rules? Simić Bodrožić Bekim: Every now and then - every three to four years Bekim: Yes, I obviously swim in the all year or so - I get a fit of nostalgia for Rijeka and go back. I rent round: summer and winter. But rivers? It’s a little harder Bekim Sejranović is not only a star of one literary genre, but an apartment for a time; sometimes for a few years. Last to swim or float in fresh water than in the sea. There are many. He’s constantly on the move: traveling between Cro- time I lived there for half a year; then the road takes me also dangerous currents. But at least you’re always within atia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Norway. The only chance somewhere else. I was married twice to girls from Rijeka, sight of land. you have of catching this writer and adventurer is either in but instead of me going back to Rijeka, they ended up in Rijeka or Oslo, Brčko or Hvar, or Ljubljana or Zagreb. Liter- Oslo where they are today (laughs). I have to write a story Roman: After all these kilometres and countries, ary awards are easy and don’t tie him down to the place: about “my” Rijeka. I hope I’ll do that one day. Well, I don’t what according to you is still an adventure? And writing desks are everywhere. His writing is fed with travel know how others feel about those times, but for me they what’s left to be discovered? and adventure. He’s equally at home on the North Sea and were the best years of my life; perhaps even the most Bekim: I’m no longer looking for an adventure in the the Mediterranean, but perhaps most of all on the Sava and important times for my development - at least that’s strict meaning of the word, because I don’t know if I was Danube rivers - where his latest novel, Your son, Huckleberry how I feel about it now. There were dozens and dozens ever looking for one. Because in order to be an adventure Finn, takes place. To be honest, Bekim of bands playing, so I also played with a few bands. We - a real adventure - there must be some inherent danger moves from adventure to adventure like an unbridled 20th- weren’t even just a garage band. But we were young, in- or uncertainty: somebody might actually have to die. I’m century version of Mark Twain’s hero. experienced, innocent, honest, hungry for success; that’s a bit more “tranquillo”. The biggest adventure I have, is what we were all about. We played in basements and did spending a weekend alone with my daughter; getting to Roman: So, for starters: north or south, a river or the concerts at Palach club. There, now I’m already getting know her world and teaching her the mysteries of life; sea? What’s better? nostalgic. Maybe I’ll try going back to Rijeka. It’s about all the while speaking a mixture of Slovenian, Croatian, Bekim: I’d take them all - if I can… I like cross country skiing time I started writing that book. and Bosnia. There’s an adventure for you: every visit to through Norwegian forests, I like taking a dip in the sea, and see my daughter in Ljubljana is an adventure. I go to a I like sailing the Savska Buba along the Sava. They all have Roman: How much is traveling connected to writ- foreign country, speak a foreign language, I get to know their charms, and people get their kicks in all kinds of ways. ing, and how do they work together for you? a child’s world; learn from it; every now and then there’s Bekim: Ever since I can remember I’ve been traveling: I’m some excitement caused by some kind of hazard (Watch Roman: In some way your books always seem to always on the move, always staying in one place tempo- out for the car!), or there’s the genuine laughter of chil- revolve around growing up. You spent part of your rarily. I’ve always been aware of the “temporary nature” dren. And not to mention visiting my eldest daughter in childhood in Rijeka: a city known for its rock scene, of my visits to certain places. And I’ve always fought Oslo. Everything is an adventure - you just need to know Photo by Bojan - Haron Markičević 22 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 23 Restaurants py to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 56 12 19, [email protected], www. nonofrane.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn). P ­T ­ A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W

Placa 51 When you have a dream, and that dream comes true: that’s Placa 51. Social media is raving about one of Rijeka’s newest additions, opened right by the harbour. Placa 51 with its Istrian/Mediterranean style of cuisine, great wines, and devouring desserts. The restaurant’s spectacular new interior is ideal for all meals, with brunch to dinner being available. If you can only try but one item, it must be the ribs, while the fudge ice-cream with white chocolate and lime sauce is reason enough to visit the city.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 3a, tel. (+385-51) 54 64 54, [email protected], www.placa51.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­G ­ B ­X ­S ­W

Ronjgi In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, espe- cially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel Restaurant Maslina na zelenom Trgu Archives welcome.QRonjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38, [email protected], www.ronjgi.com.hr. Open 10:00 Croatian - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. (50 - 80kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­ Konoba Municipium L ­G ­B ­X ­W Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Mu- nicipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxuri- ous restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish International dishes, the food is light and sublime.QD‑2, Trg Riječke Kamov rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine res- 14, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - taurant comprises several spaces, each with its own re- 23:00. (70 - 150kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W laxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Konoba Nebuloza Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), prices.QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, bonavia@ Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant bonavia.hr, www.bonavia.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic 120kn). P ­T ­A ­L ­G ­W interior touches. The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style Sorriso sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF‑1, Titov hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, info@konobanebuloza. which changes every three months to include seasonal com, www.konobanebuloza.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, ingredients, features light food with interesting combi- Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). P ­T ­J ­ nations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads A ­G ­W and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits.QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/ Nono Frane (+385-) 091 271 10 66, [email protected], www. Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka restaurant-sorriso.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit P ­T ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to Spagho homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here This spaghetteria has a wide range of classic pasta dishes, are particularly appetising. They are also more than hap- a brief but well-composed pizza menu and specialities 24 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants

such as carpaccio, saltinbocca and steaks prepared in making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey imaginative ways such as with grana padano, rucola and or cheese with truffles - a speciality from nearby . vinegar. With its elegant contemporary décor, excellent QR‑2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 and good wine list, Spagho is highly prized by 89, [email protected]. Open 11:30 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 the locals as spot for a light meal in the city centre.QE‑2, - 02:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. (40 - 120kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­U ­ Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22, info@ristorante- L ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W spagho.com, www.ristorante-spagho.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 150kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­ Trsatica G ­B ­X ­S ­W A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace capable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to the cas- Konoba tle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions are gener- A konoba is a type of restaurant typical of the Croatian ous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors so you can coast - simple and traditional, although some modern ver- keep an eye on things. Pretty much everyone is agreed that sions have gone somewhat upscale, and are great places to the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here.QR‑2, Šetalište experience local atmosphere and cuisine. They were once Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385- 51) 45 27 16, restoran. the places where fishermen hung out and got someone [email protected], restaurant-trsatica.com. Open else to cook their catch for them. 10:00 - 24:00. (45 - 350kn). P ­T ­6 ­B ­X ­W

Blato Volta 15 In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu - - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod). in a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) QD‑2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 06. Open 33 69 70, [email protected], www.konoba-blato. 09:30 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 120kn). blato1902.hr/. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. P ­T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Closed Sun. (25 - 80kn). P ­T ­A ­G ­X ­W

Ive Seafood This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of Feral centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood Croatian classics - it’s a simple place with a small menu - excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has es- as they say. The drinks are made in front of you so that to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 which often means that what they do, they do well. Qual- tablished an army of fans in Rijeka.QP‑3, Bože Milanovića you know they are one hundred percent natural with no 65, [email protected], www.konoba-ive.hr. Open ity wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE‑2, Matije 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34, [email protected], www. additives, chemicals or concentrates. They also deliver. 10:00 - 24:00. (25 - 60kn). T ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, [email protected], peking-ri.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). P ­T ­ QE‑2, Užarska 14 - u dvorištu, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/ www.konoba-feral.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W (+385-) 097 624 05 24, [email protected], Tarsa - 17:00. July - September Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - www.prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of 24:00. (30 - 120kn). P ­T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). i ­T ­J ­6 ­V ­ the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country- Vegetarian N ­G ­B ­X ­W style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, Klub Makrovega Mexican Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a Tifan Mexican Cantina Bodega health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetar- What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing ian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic and sweets can be found 3pm from Monday to Saturday miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless locals give it rave reviews in any case - especially for its daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. steel containers - not your average foil or polystyrene chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) devotees to crimes of chocolate passion.QE‑3, Ivana Za- a hit with the regulars.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385- 098 85 00 19, [email protected], www.tifan.hr. Open 06:00 jca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59/(+385-) 099 830 98 91, 51) 32 11 45, [email protected]. Open - 16:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 60kn). P ­i ­T ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­ [email protected], www.bodega.fullbusiness. 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (15 - 30kn). P ­T ­6 ­ B ­X ­S ­W com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn). N ­G ­S ­W P ­T ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W Priroda i društvo juice&smoothie bar Quick Eats This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, Bar Bar Chinese warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering for Peking materials and warm colours created by the owners who city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Roman You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to interior, Placa 51 Archives Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such then there is the morning till night addition; coffee with 26 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 27 Restaurants Restaurants

croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients. There of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more. Wines Pizza the meat ispod peke style - it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as memoirs! Bracera advance.QUčka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) A true package!QD‑1/2, Pod volton 6, tel. (+385-) 097 A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka op- 091 222 53 35, [email protected], www.dopolavoro. 712 99 49/(+385-) 091 739 31 99, barbar.rijeka@gmail. posite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Monday. July - August com, www.bar-bar.eu/. Open Mon, Wed 10:00 - 24:00, rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 130kn). T ­A ­L ­G ­B ­ Tue, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. oven are among the best in town, and they do great big X ­S ­W (8 - 30kn). i ­B ­S crispy salads.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Buffet Cocco (29 - 80kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W Kastav Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy Mala riba eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real lo- Maslina na Zelenom trgu This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ bistro • grill cal homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus where you can devour crab, snails, fish, and olives… in small kitchen. Your waiter will be the owner who really shines on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, in making your experience a winner.QB‑2, Uski pro- town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between laz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53, their gourmet sorts, but chef Dušan Džimbeg also has his Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 27 [email protected]. Open 09:00 daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef 79 45, [email protected], www.mala-riba.com. Open - 17:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 110kn). carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, wasabi tuna, and 11:30 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov trg bb, tel. (+385- 51) 56 35 63, [email protected], www.pizzeria- Kantina Rijeka maslina.hr/na-zelenom-trgu/. Open 11:00 - 23:30. Closed Krk Riva Boduli 3a Situated on Conto, Kantina is a brekky/lunch/brunch café/ Sun. (32 - 94kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W Bracera 51000 Rijeka, Croatia bar with various menu options from fish n chips or lasa- This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront [email protected] gne, to lots of fresh salads with chicken or tuna to various Pampas is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled +385 (0)51/546 454 seafood snacks and soups. Light meals that are spot on at A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice summer. Pop up arty type furniture, and a small courtyard shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV‑2, Slavka is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” - sardines or similar. Vita- www.placa51.com with cover for some much valued seclusion.QF‑1, Titov Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58. Open 10:00 - min rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1, Malin- trg 3, tel. (+385-51) 61 88 82, [email protected]. 23:00. (27 - 85kn). P ­T ­V ­N ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W ska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, info@konoba-bracera. @placa51 Open 07:00 - 15:30. com, www.konoba-bracera.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 300kn). P ­T ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W Out of town: inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines. Cres Gospoja QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 61 01, Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home [email protected], www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 Konoba Beli made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a - 200kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W When on the island of Cres, pop into this restaurant for type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, what is deemed to be a super brunch. But, there is a catch, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of you gotta be daring! Its lamb dropčići (offal), which is a žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopan- Lovran hearty stew made of lamb heart, stomach and intestines, ska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@gospoja. Draga di Lovrana served with polenta and bread. Kid you not, people come hr, www.gospoja.hr. April - October Open 11:00 - 23:00. Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near back for it; it is homemade and authentic.QBeli 6, Cres, (40 - 180kn). T ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find tel. (+385-51) 84 05 15/(+385-) 098 39 36 74, hrzic05@ fantastic Mediterranean food prepared with the utmost yahoo.com, www.beli-cres.com/konoba-beli/. Open Konoba Nada care. Try home-made bread and desserts, and drink in 10:00 - 22:00. (60 - 140kn). P ­N ­B If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66, [email protected], www. flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the dragadilovrana.hr. Open Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Tue-Sun Ičići spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie 13:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). P ­T ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W Commodore pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik, A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, [email protected], www. complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particu- nada-vrbnik.hr. April - October Open 12:00 - 22:00. (135 SYMBOL key larly known for its separate pasta menu which offers - 175kn). P ­T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W specialities from Krk island and Istra.QLiburnijska bb, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 49, [email protected], www. Rivica Restaurant T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled restoran-commodore.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hos- 360kn). P ­T ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W pitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic B Outside seating L Guarded parking experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important Dopolavoro is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cui- S Take away 6 Pet-friendly If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top sine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus W Wifi J Old town location this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar 28 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 29 Restaurants Local Flavour NaJade bellows, muskets, powder horns, plus a number of sculp- Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic tures all made from the wood of two old houses from Tu- stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a ropolje, salvaged all those decades ago. Best known for lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in its pašticada, brudet od riba, and fritaja…QKneza Doma- Lovran.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 goja 2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 42 43/(+385-) 098 959 88 18 66. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). P ­A ­G ­B ­X 34, www.apartman-starcevic.com/index.php/konoba- kod-kineza. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (45 - 80kn). T ­J ­A ­ Mošćenička Draga 6 ­G ­B ­S ­W Johnson Restaurant Ana This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood Situated not too far from Rab’s main bus station, this eatery and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is seems a firm favourite of residents of the island, which in quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for itself speaks volumes. Very spacious, this restaurant would it.QMajćevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 accommodate a number of groups without any being 78, [email protected], www.johnson.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. overly close to another. Great for families who might be Closed Tue. (75 - 250kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W worried about the young ‘uns getting underfoot, and it’s far enough away from the main hustle and bustle of the town. Like many restaurants on the island the menu is in- Opatija fluenced by what is caught that morning, but certainly the Bistro Yacht Club cuttlefish is well worth having, if you’re partial.QPalit 80, A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s little Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 43 76, contact@restaurant-ana. harbour - enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get there. com, www.rab-ana.com. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and 24:00. (50 - 400kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­U ­L ­B ­W seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well worth a try. Vrbnik Tourist Board Archives Zert 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 23 45, info@yacht-club- Šanpjer opatija.com, www.yacht-club-opatija.com. Open 10:00 - Terrace only, this small marina venue was possibly the Food Markets The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W highlight of a recent weekend break. Generous portions Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel interesting for their iron construction which was pretty for what you’re paying (given that island prices tend to be for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age. Gastro World higher than normal anyway), and there wasn’t a scrap of mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city In one you’ll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to food sent back to the kitchen. Staff are exceptionally help- market is also an architectural treasure. The central market for dairy produce. night food experience over two floors. Choose from ful and polite, and service is prompt. This reviewer had (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and octopus salad and breaded shrimp, and could easily have docks right in the heart of the city. At the water’s edge it’s For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern of- had a second plate it was that good. An ideal venue to fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which you can still find smallholders selling their own produce. fer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty break-up an evening out, or to start one, or to end one… are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsi- more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the QŠetalište kralja Petra Krešimira 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a cal floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of 72 41 83, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 23:30. complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you’ll find chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85, (40 - 160kn). P ­T ­J ­6 ­U ­B ­S ­W century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the la- Opatija, [email protected], www.milenijhoteli.hr. is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the dies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 00:00. (35 - 125kn). sightseeing agenda you really shouldn’t miss. bits and pieces. We recommend you try this home-made P ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Volosko food. It’s what the locals value most; these are the flavours Lavrvs Since Rijeka is a coastal city it’s no surprise that the fish they remember from childhood. Istranka Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just out- market has always been highly important, and the site of A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street side the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary today’s market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale. just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers tradi- force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been Here it’s a free-for-all between traders selling imported tional food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines - al- here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodi- goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items shady terrace and musical accompaniment - worth track- ways a good sign.QNova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. cally been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the popu- from their gardens at home. This again is where you find ing down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 (+385-51) 74 13 55, [email protected], www. lation. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It’s the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, [email protected], www. villa-kapetanovic.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (65 - 145kn). built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and istranka.net. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). P ­T ­ P ­T ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate A ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the lamb’s lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs. Plavi podrum three market pavilions it’s the one which most clearly still A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le shows its original structure. In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic Rab Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in Kod Kineza was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it’s salads. But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or Part of Rab’s cuisine scene for just short of two decades, interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish. usually thronging with people, as Rijeka’s citizens do love another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poi- Kod Kineza (named after the owner’s nickname) is worth QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of soning - unfortunately it does happen. a visit even if only for the simply amazing decor. The 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, [email protected], www. silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there’s a are festooned with the sort of knick-knacks and parapher- plavipodrum.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for Another spring treat with health-giving properties is aspar- nalia you’d expect on an Adriatic island; a blacksmith’s P ­T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W photographers. agus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, 30 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 31 Local Flavour Local Flavour

which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it of leaves for wild garlic. Just a few such interlopers can be or fry it and serve it with eggs. enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you whether to risk it. Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady’s garden… Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locally-grown On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented para- delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its dise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that or three. Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey… chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find Once you’ve tried the market, there’s no going back. It’s an chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chest- addiction, a necessary condition for life. nut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu.

Then there’s the flower market by the theatre, the ba- Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous rometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for or peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to with- topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it stand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named you’re in town in the winter. after the Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, writ- And let’s not forget the cafés and the fast-food eateries. ten by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published With folks up and about from the early morning, a cup of in 1686. coffee is an essential part of the day. The cafés around the market buzz with atmosphere as locals, stallholders and Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scam- shoppers alike, stop for a pick-me-up and catch up with pi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they the morning’s gossip. This is where you can feel the beating should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a heart of the city, a sense which no tourist guide can convey. hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight.

The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truf- the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally Marunada - Lovran Tourist Board Archives fles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland working people who grow the produce on sale, men and can enjoy locally-reared lamb - see our Restaurants sec- pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting nee- Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tus- women. It’s the real Rijeka. tion. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the dle. Hand-made pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleas- cany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful springtime. ure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, food and wine on your travels. Floating market though we’d say goulash is probably a classic. Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg This environment is also the reason why the islanders pro- Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj duce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are (Rab cake). This is a centuries-old recipe that was a favour- we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is a few good larger manufacturers on the island. A notable ite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re perfectly charming! one is Gligora - you can call into their factory at Kolan in shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious the central part of the island and taste some of their prod- lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka ucts. in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other right from Opatija, or head into the highlands Local Dishes celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s (where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architec- Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea, As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir. ture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian penin- the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One most voracious appetites. sula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its Most island villages in the summer months have festivals and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been music and dancing with the locals. This is a great oppor- The Foodie’s Guide can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from tunity to find out more about the local culture, so we defi- 01.07 Friday - 03.07 Sunday diet in our Health Tourism pages 52-58 here we’ll focus on illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of nitely recommend you check the festivals out. Drink and Eat Festival of žlahtina - the gastronomy of the region. wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong Razgon opening spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in Three days, two themes, and one aim - to gather and cel- Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner re- strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated ebrate! Day one draws is dedicated to the Pavlomir winery gion, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for ex- about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great in , the family open their cellar doors for cellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68). in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is all to come and try their wine assortments. Day two is the are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which Open Wine Cellars Day with Vrbnik vintners presenting the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine with- are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly the žlahtina wine sort, a white dry wine made from the on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind. out mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk though there have been recent cases of poisoning where indigenous variety žlahtina bijela, a wine unique to the is- Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds land. Day three is entitled Razgon, which is the name given 32 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 33 Local Flavour Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife to the last day of the milking of sheep and their release 01.10 Saturday - 02.10 Sunday Gelateria Corso to free grazing. One can step back in time with featured Days of liganj (squid) Light and delicious cakes - some of the best in town, old crafts, folklore dancing and local authentic products. Smother yourselves with squid cooked, fried and grilled we’d say. Great coffee too. A perfect terrace for a spot of QVrbnik, Krk Island. in every shape and form under the sun. Locals have their people-watching on Korzo, and a bright and cheerful up- century old methods and they don’t change a winning stairs seating area with a view of the decorative buildings 09.07 Saturday formula. Held in the heart of Crikvenica, turn local for two opposite.QD‑2, Korzo 20, tel. (+385-51) 30 19 45/(+385-) The Blueberry Day days and you can participate in squid fishing, cooking, 099 213 11 66, [email protected], www. One day, one berry, blueberry! Get the knowhow of this drinking wining and dancing to Mediterranean melodies. gelateria-corso.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P ­T ­J ­N ­ fruit through educational workshops and in the afternoon, QCrikvenica. G ­B ­X ­W all visitors will be able to taste a giant blueberry strudel made especially for the occasion as well as other tradi- 08.10 SATurday - 09.10 SUNday Slatko by Piko tional dishes and desserts. A local fair and brass orchestra 15.10 SATurday - 16.10 SUNday This is the first Piko outlet dedicated solely to those with band will perform.QRavna Gora. 21.10 FRIday - 23.10 SUNday a sweet tooth. They offer a myriad of cakes, pastries, tarts, The 43rd Marunada desserts and fancies. You can even order your own custom 10.07 Sunday - 17.07 Sunday Chestnuts, maruni, are the real stars of this October made cake for your special celebrations via a unique termi- Šurlice Days celebration since they are featured in every meal and nal in the shop. Ingenious!QKorzo 33b, tel. (+385-51) 58 Feeling peckish! For one entire week restaurants on the event this time of year. All cafes, patisseries, taverns and 55 44, [email protected], www.pikrijeka.hr. Open island of Krk are offering special dishes made withšurlice restaurants prepare domestic dishes, cakes and sweets 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. P ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W pasta and prepared in various ways. On the two Sunday made with maruni ( breast stuffed with chest- Gastro World Continental Archives evenings, a small fair of local products as well as a musical nuts, rump-steak in chestnut sauce, chestnut ice-cream, programme will accompany the event.QVrbnik, Krk Island. frappe, and sorbet just to name a few). Things turn really Cakes Coffee nutty with a series of events including a bocce tourna- Choco bar bonbonnière Kraš Book Caffe Dnevni boravak 04.08 Thursday ment, a bicycle race, the hiking race Učka Vertical, an Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Dagnjada old timers car show and a fishing competition.QLiganj, on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does Relaxing by the sea, the intoxicating smell of mussels and Dobreć and Lovran. offer. It’s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpreten- coastal songs in the background - that is the shortest de- Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs tious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate scription that explains Dagnjade. Happy Race Teams will 02.12 Friday - 04.12 Sunday or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB‑1, cook fresh mussels, carefully choosing their spices so that Chocolate Festival enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on Ciottina 12a, [email protected]. Open 07:00 the taste of the Mediterranean is more intense. Games, A December sweetener with the best Croatian and inter- chocolate cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 00:00, Sun 16:00 - 00:00. P ­T ­ entertainment, singing and dance will last until the early national chocolate brands, and small specialised manufac- mix of minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco.QD‑2, J ­6 ­E ­N ­X ­W morning hours.QGrabrova Bay, Jadranovo. turers presenting original chocolate products! Workshops, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, chocobarrijeka@kras. lectures, tastings, concerts and exhibitions dedicated to hr, www.kraschocobar.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun Cukarikafe 16.08 Tuesday chocolate take place in Opatija’s hotels and restaurants, art 08:00 - 22:00. P ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are Folk Festival Rokova - Liganj galleries, exhibition pavilions, and museums and schools. a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is On the feast day of Saint Rocco, if you happen to be in A special addition is the ‘Opatija Paradox’ where various Cukerin a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furni- or close to Lovran, there is Holy Mass in the Church of chocolate flavours are combined under expert guidance Here is a sweet tooth haven with juicy cakes, French ture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: St. Rocco. Later, enjoy the competition of housewives of with quality wines from the region.QOpatija, www. macaroons, chocolate cookies and many sweets and an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible pric- Lovranšćina in preparing traditional beet with beans or visitopatija.com. savoury snacks on offer. Morning, brunch and lunch all es. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices visit the ethno exhibition of the ‘Ognjišće’ Association. seem to have their own special menu. From warm crois- and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could Lots of food and music to help the party go all night long 02.12 Friday - 09.12 Friday sants to quiche pie with veggies or bacon, there’s plenty you want?QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 583 will be prepped!QLovran. RI Gastro: Chocolate Week to explore. Coffee, beer and wine to suit every occasion; 82 76, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 24:00, All chocoholics tune in, get ready to dabble and nibble as well as lit candles and music to make your experience a Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 -23:00. P ­T ­A ­6 ­ 30.08 Tuesday - 13.09 Tuesday on all sorts of Choco goodies made available over the wholesome one.QD‑1, Pod Kaštelom 9, tel. (+385-51) 44 G ­B ­X ­W RI Gastro: A week of figs and squid seven days. FYI, as Rijeka is a port city, the first chocolate 49 50, [email protected], www.cukerin.com. Open Scientific studies have proven that traditional Mediterra- and cocoa factory in this part of Europe was opened and 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­ Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe nean diets are of super-duper value. So the city of Rijeka in its honour, this sweet historical fact will be accompa- B ­X ­S ­W This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selec- will for two weeks in August and September promote such nied by a locally designed souvenir ‘chocolates and pra- tion of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks foods authentic to the area at this time of year. Grandma’s lines from Rijeka’.QVarious locations, Rijeka, rigastro. Dolce Bolero and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th recipes will be revived across various restaurants in town visitrijeka.hr. A cheerful combination of lemon-yellow chairs and brick- century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and and at very affordable prices.QVarious locations, Rijeka, red walls provides the perfect background for a happy is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll rigastro.visitrijeka.hr. 09.12 Friday - 16.12 Friday afternoon spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and find the VBZ bookshop which stocks all the latest bestsell- RI Gastro: Codfish Week custard slices happen to be wobbling around seductively ers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmo- 10.09 Saturday Believe it or not, the cod has God like status in this part of in the display cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to sphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good The Mushroom Days the world. Century old traditions in drying the fish haven’t order. Which is useful if you happen to be planning ei- book too.QD‑2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open The Ravna Forest blossoms with mushrooms and visitors changed a bit and it is often eaten during fasting seasons ther a birthday party or a splatter-someone-in-the-face 07:00 - 23:00. T ­J ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W interested in mushroom picking are free to attend. Day in- in Easter and Christmas. It is usually prepared in two ways: confectionery assault.QD‑2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. cludes a mushroom exhibition and a mushroom goulash in bianco as a spread or as a red-tinted stew with potatoes (+385-51) 33 03 43, [email protected], www. Iskra cooking comp, an omelette made of 1000 eggs and mush- - maritime style. Invitations are open!QVarious locations, dolcebolero.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. P ­T ­J ­N ­G ­ Zebra print seating and pink neon lighting serve as an un- rooms served. Eat up!QRavna Gora. Rijeka, rigastro.visitrijeka.hr. B ­X ­W wanted reminder of the 1980s, but Iskra has a nice terrace 34 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 35 Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife

and a wine cellar. You could do far worse than spend an Vintage bar new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on to use the lift which is at the rear of the building.QD‑2, evening lingering over a bottle of Dingač or Ivan Dolac You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+385- - both gutsy southern reds.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good 51) 33 33 38, [email protected], www.nadurom. (+385-51) 21 14 06, [email protected]. Open 06:00 Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well pre- mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P ­T ­ - 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. P ­T ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W served fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 J ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W the Elliptical Tower of the fortress - which is in fact an exhibi- 22, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 24:00. Kosi toranj tion space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best P ­T ­6 ­L ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W Pepe Rosso Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum. Hemingway bar has a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibi- be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/breakbeat QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the tions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, DJ set come evening.QE‑2, Put vele crikve 1, tel. (+385- 099 236 75 37. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B Daiquiri-sipping hero, Opatija’s Hemingway is the most spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splen- 51) 33 62 14, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing did, really!QD‑3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56/ 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P ­T ­J ­N ­B ­X ­W out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town’s (+385-) 099 531 20 56. Open 07:30 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Opatija Coffee tidy little harbour. There’s a wealth of Hemingway-related P ­T ­A ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W Striga Café Wagner memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable In the same building as the Hotel Continental, a most Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at Rakhia bar pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square this traditional and classy kavana - a coffee house in the weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktail- This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge.QF‑1, Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade sipping venue, for several generations now, you can also Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Titov trg 14, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11, happyplace.doo@ who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescent- get your lunch here.QZert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmo- gmail.com. June - September Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun shaped terrace whatever the weather.QMaršala Tita 32 44 56/(+385-51) 27 28 87, [email protected], sphere done out with little details this is the place where 08:00 - 24:00. P ­T ­J ­6 ­N ­B ­X ­W 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, info@ www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 06:00. P ­T ­A ­ you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Open 07:00 - 6 ­G ­B ­X ­W and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 07:00 - carob and many more.QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. 24:00. P ­T ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W Karolina (+385-) 095 514 65 99, [email protected]. Open Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in Mon, Wed, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat Palme , right on the quayside between the moored 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. P ­T ­J ­6 ­N ­B ­X ­W Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself. Sabrage furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), tel. (+385- well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent 51) 70 63 18, [email protected], www.hotel-bristol. barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. P ­T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W chosen by top DJs.QD‑2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 indeed.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 - 05:00. P ­T ­J ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W 37, [email protected], www.sabragebar.com. Open Bars 07:00 - 02:00. P ­T ­J ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W Bačva Mirage Another multipurpose place where visitors can enjoy sip- The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new Teta Roža ping on coffee, as well as make the most of pleasant eve- sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a ning socialising with intimate live performances, poetry the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively. marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more readings, rock concerts and other events. Very cosy type A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs urban atmosphere!QC/D‑2, Dolac 8, tel. (+385-) 092 346 occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock Gastro World Continental Archives 91 88, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 24:00, and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera.QJ‑3, gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. Istarska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 200 75 99, zvonko.berisic@ main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter Closed Sun. P ­T ­J ­N ­B ­X ­W gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P ­T ­6 ­N ­B ­X ­W beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is Champagne bar Pommery Nad urom well worth struggling up the hill for.QS‑3, Kumičićeva 55a, Slap bang in the heart of Korzo. This is the stylish place for Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes exactly [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat coffee and exclusive drinks promotions and hot nightlife. the location of this café bar because it is located on the 07:00 - 02:00. P ­T ­6 ­N ­B ­X ­W Business people, the jet-set, celebrities as well as the lo- top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the cals and tourists sit outside when there’s a free seat. The city’s famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka’s The Beertija place to watch life go by on Korzo and also the place to be old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city’s bus- Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of seen.QD‑2, Trg Republike 2a, tel. (+385-) 091 444 16 66. tling main drag over your morning coffee. However what local and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can Open 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. P ­T ­ also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of match the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you J ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, burrrning! It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.Their website and the entire pubish type experience.QR‑2, Slavka Krautze- Galaxie bar Facebook pages are the best places to keep informed. Dur- ka 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 21 83, [email protected]. Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbour- ing regular shopping hours entrance is via the shopping Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - Photo by Marša Gajinov hood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the centre and outside hours and in the evenings you need 04:00. P ­T ­A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W 36 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 37 Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife Sightseeing River pub With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to en- joy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD‑1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 46 73, [email protected]. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 06:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. P ­T ­J ­N ­B ­X ­W

Wine bars kod Zajca wine&coffee bar Seeking local produce? See the very best of Croatian Rakhia Bar Archives wines at reasonable prices. With live music on Wednes- days and Fridays, and presentations of Croatian wine makers on Thursdays, this is the perfect place for some- what of a different day out.QD‑3, Verdijeva 7a, tel. (+385-51) 31 31 10, [email protected]. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P ­T ­J ­E ­N ­ B ­X ­W

The Rijeka Astronomical Center - Rijeka Sport Archives Clubs Boa Essential Rijeka Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea - ev- This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) erything that stands between here and the present-day feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern Although there has been a church dedicated to the pa- waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for tron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Euro- with many other important buildings. Money for a new crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian peanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE‑2, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of ba- 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spot- Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open 06:00 roque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A ted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, - 02:00, Fri 06:00 - 05:00, Sat 07:00 - 05:00, Sun 08:00 - gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate the very same which still shows the correct time today. Rakhia Bar Archives 02:00. P ­J ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the con- QD‑2, Korzo. gregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, Pubs Nina 2 including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Leg- The Corso (Korzo) Celtic Caffe Bard One of the three permanently anchored boats in the port end has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by el- A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy of Rijeka. During the day you can enjoy coffee, during the outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a egant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a night the boat turns into a club with entire upper floor stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a from bow to stern becoming the dance floor. Every week- figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just good pint will be kept happy by ’s finest Hirter beer end there’s something happening, guest DJs, live bands swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With and special events. But if the heat gets too much there’s his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and also an open terrace area especially arranged for relaxation public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D‑2, Korzo. classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who and conversation.QC‑2, Adamićev gat, tel. (+385-) 099 gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want 584 32 03, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. you can see a cannonball embedded in the and a (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - P ­T ­J ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W inscription referring to the which Ivan pl. Zajc) 24:00. Closed Sun. P ­T ­J ­6 ­N ­B ­X ­W translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe Teuta it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was pro- meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka Phanas Pub The Teuta Club is recognised for its clubbing with moted to Cathedral status in 1925. Holly Mass: 07:00, Sun was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from a great choice of good music, characterized by its 09:45 (italian), 11:00.QD‑1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 architectural studio specialising in theatre design, respon- rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoul- friendly atmosphere where people know how to relax. 79. Open 06:30 - 13:00, 14:00 - 19:00, Mon 06:30 - 17:00. sible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the ders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays expect performances colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, by the best the DJs, VJs, singers and musicians with a The City Tower and City Gate Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD‑3, modern urban twist. It is split into two floors which (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23 77, phanas@phanas. with multimedia support are merged into one.QE‑2, Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a hr, www.phanas.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - Užarska 1. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the 05:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P ­T ­J ­A ­E ­X ­W Closed Sun. N ­G ­B a gate - the original entrance to the Roman settlement ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain 38 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 39 Sightseeing Sightseeing

painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship. was inspired by the landscape of Krk Island. In the newly- feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the the ceilings. This is a good church to attend if you want Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a fa- landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial east of the centre, or take bus No.2.QS‑1. to get the feel of a local mass: July 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, vourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important 19:00; August 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; rest of the year particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to contributors to the development of classical music in Cro- Mon - Fri 08:00, 18:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 18:00. celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous oc- atia. If you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, Churches QE‑2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77. casions.QE‑2, Jelačićev trg. then be aware that sightseeing tours are available by prior The Capuchin Church of Our Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun arrangement, costing €3 per person.QE‑3, Uljarska 1, tel. Lady of Lourdes 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July Open 08:00 - 12:00. The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) (+385-51) 33 71 14/(+385-51) 35 59 07, propaganda@ (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a sil- hnk-zajc.hr, www.hnk-zajc.hr. Box office open 09:00 The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the The Church of St Sebastian ver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. 6th June - 22nd July Open Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, and one hour before upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Build- Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below the show. ing started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD‑2, Korzo. years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The Trsat the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This The Old Paper Millstones Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keep- plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman (Stari kolodrob) ing watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated. A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s indus- has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is were clamouring to part with their hard-earned money to Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Se- trial heritage and water: together fundamental elements the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, com- bastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of pleted in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and en- original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got emies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe! and water streams in intriguing formations over the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.QD‑2, Marka toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre Marulića bb. become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB‑2, Kapucinske stube 5, The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniver- over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:30. (Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole) sary.QD‑2, Koblerov trg. church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox commu- Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The The Church of St Jerome and Dominican nity, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that The Public Drinking Fountain story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Domini- the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for (Javna slavina) Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to kanski samostan) a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There! Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drink- Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square. That’s where you can build your church!” The industri- ing fountain with its constant flow of water was built in they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery com- ous Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in plex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva 1873.QA‑2, Krešimirova. of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of re- House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a nowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvo- Historical areas Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in dina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00, Calvary 17-18 century For more on the church and its sacral art collection see the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD‑2, Ignacija Henckea 2, (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st.) below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centu- is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30. Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija ries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit com- of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00, 18:30, Sun 08:00, munity was peeved at all the attention drawn by the last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish- 09:00, 11:30, 18:30.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. Fountains Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro- (+385-51) 32 53 20. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:00. The Jadranski trg Fountain attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here (Fontana Jadranski trg) path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer The Church of St Mary of the Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of Assumption and The leaning a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the be- of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at which once housed prison cells) which are now used as tower (Crkva Uznesenja ginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the the top, but little remains of them except a few sculp- exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj) skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising com- tures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby bination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stun- dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then under- soothing noise.QC‑2, Jadranski trg. Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala ning views over Rijeka and the . It’s part of gone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nou- a chain of defences across the mountains that protected in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that The Kawasaki Fountain veau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion. this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the (Fontana Kawasaki) It’s a pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Cap- main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas tain Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Be- Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre. fore you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city QE‑1, Kalvarija. 40 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 41 Sightseeing

Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium the factory was the second largest manufacturer of ciga- (Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.) rette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some by war and economic and political changes, and the com- thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit pany went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development time, for this was once part of a Roman military command and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD‑2, there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvor- Trg Ivana Koblera. nica papira Hartera”.QF‑1, Ružićeva bb.

The Fort of the Holy Cross The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) (Gradina sv. Križ) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugosla- originating from prehistoric times which guarded the via. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from in- during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuild- land Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to ing going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugo- the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks). slav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to stu- to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting dents and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines. on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of construction and waste management. An even older yard, ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, con- keep your eyes peeled!QT‑2, Sveti križ. versions and offshore work like laying pipelines and build- ing oil rigs - the oil industry is another important part of The Old City (Stari grad) the economy of the Kvarner region.QL‑3, Liburnijska 3. The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The build- ings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in the town, providing it with transport and water systems, 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chi- see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of nese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Ju- sensual murals of bathing goddesses.QA‑1, Ulica Petra dicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Krešimira IV. Trg Ivana Koblera. The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka? Industrial Rijeka Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weap- The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) ons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this. Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval of- is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people ficer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, long range. He came up with the idea of what he called exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical back- of the most successful industries of both the former Yu- ground nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He goslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of en- Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with trepreneurs from France and England who installed the the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first first steam engine in in 1833. In 1991, tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western 42 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing Sightseeing

remains of its monumental main entrance, paved cen- Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late Croatian verb sušiti - “to dry”, since once upon a time there tral courtyard, and basilica are a jewel of Roman history. 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klović. goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought top ten European seaports by volume. wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and pal- Hurricane! War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First aces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms World War stopped the international transport of goods the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the by sea. After the war, the handed the port and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yu- and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two. from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as goslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slo- technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the de- was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing venes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and velopment of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films on the construction of facilities for the transport of spe- you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds cialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and con- the shore. It was the elite residential area during Austro- of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka tainers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthu- of cargo per year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. where members of the political and literary families Ružić siasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Uragan’s repair, and she was given a permanent resting by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many place here in summer 2005. industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić- ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books. Photo by Marša Gajinov Islamic Center Rijeka Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline. In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monu- The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry ment, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, the western part of the city. This is a building of high in- has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology ternational artistic relevance designed by the famous late of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s lo- can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English trans- engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects cation is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a lation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the fac- Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a long-standing transport connection with the countries monument.QQ/S‑3/4. tory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka moun- of Central Europe, with a direct link to . It’s an heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and tain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The ideal point for the import and export of goods between The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an el- outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the impos- and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern derly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s ing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach The facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more.QD‑3. carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of a congress centre, which will be named after the Emir of from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter. underground car park. Prayers in the building can accom- “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was car- QM‑3, Jože Vlahovića 19. modate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 me- chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you ried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still tres high. Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary see there wind their way through the city, underground famous for it’s cheese - grobnički sir - try it if you see it on Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) architecture.QAnte Mandića 50, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 59, and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these. the menu.QE‑2, Užarska. The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station [email protected], www.medzlis-rijeka.org. Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architec- neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one The Rijeka Astronomical Center (As- tural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and tronomski Centar Rijeka) trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Lju- (Most hrvatskih branitelja) Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no bljana, and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was further as you’re about to enter the first astronomy center the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original that was built in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city and architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around course abandoned - you’ll see it on the map marked as up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hun- it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an is easy and available via line 7a from the city centre (Delta). gary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with It is set in a building which was built in 1941 as a military were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 with many examples of modern architecture, there was an its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by fortress. Subsequently, in 2001, a telescope was built there stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which sur- almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its open- bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge Rijeka’s first observatory was established, by installing a vive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5. ing, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Land- new planetarium hall into an already existing fortress. The won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As marks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll Astronomical Center now encompasses an observatory, you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the planetarium and other additional contents for learning Landmarks the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see more about astronomy. Special presentations in planetar- Archaeological Park independent future. As you cross back into the city, make Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested ium are organized for foreign tourists every Wednesday The newly renovated Archaeological Park has recently sure you watch the traffic!QE‑2, Uskočka riva. to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from at 19:30, and in observatory every Saturday at 22:00. Fore opened in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.QF‑1/2, E‑2. detailed working hours of planetarium and observatory is an amazing site that shows the ancient history of the Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) please call (+385-51) 45 57 00.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385- city of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Prin- The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian Sušak - Pećine 51) 45 57 00, [email protected], cipia, the 3rd century Roman military command that monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river www.astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. used to be a part of the Roman defence system. The built connecting the port with the large cities of the was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. 44 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 45 Sightseeing Sightseeing

The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to gage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone games consoles, and computers spread across two levels. know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in con- exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool. archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, semi- ditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either de- The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary - look out for the the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built nars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if lighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibi- figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist de- you need to access the net, there are 2 computers avail- ans, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can partment store, with a Hapsburg era town house added able to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It India.QC‑2, Riva. to Roman excavations where you can see decorative col- Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean umns, stone walls and slabs.QD‑2, Trg Julija Klovića. or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is deciduous zone.QD‑1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) more to your liking!QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385- 36 69, [email protected], www.prirodoslovni.com. Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) ) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. May - November Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn. sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior ar- Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too - raised above a statue of a man sitting on the railings - a scarily lifelike rangement. Admission 20kn. The University Library ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer (Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka) its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still State Archives in Rijeka The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zam- most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, de- much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died (Državni arhiv Rijeka) mattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into signed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF‑1, Titov trg. Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surround- in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhi- in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which ing County and the town of . The oldest document bition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading col- guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only frag- Museums dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibi- lections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas ments of this remain today.QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma. City Museum of Rijeka tion room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, (Muzej grada Rijeke) about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most The Modello Building (Palača Modello) Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola important document of this kind in existence. Together A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian ar- gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived.QD‑1, with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, chitects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lec- Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the tures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.QD‑1, 33 64 47, [email protected], www.riarhiv.hr. very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance be- Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, info@muzej- During exhibitions open 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. appointment to view - it’s well worth it. The Museum of lies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also rijeka.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. June - September Open Admission free. Modern Art is on the second floor of the building.QC‑2, richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. October - May Open Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 61 29, [email protected], the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Admission 10 - 15kn. The Maritime and History Museum of the www.svkri.uniri.hr. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 14:00 with community.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca. Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn. Modern and Contemporary Art Museum muzej Hrvatskog primorja) The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustin- Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and for- Historical Museum which is located in one of the most Palaces ian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in eign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former pal- The Governor’s Palace of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ace, it was originally designed and built as the residence (Guvernerova palača) ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo. for king’s emissaries and governors. The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian A MASTER OF LIGHTNING QC‑2, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka af- ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. May - September Open presents artefacts connected to the history and culture ter a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth Tue - Fri 11:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Ri- meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of - 21:00. October - April Open Tue - Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat jeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Em- and Sun 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Mon by prior ar- through to the 20th century. leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named pire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic rangement. Admission depending on the exhibition. Divided into categories, the museum’s collection con- Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and memory led him to flourish in school. Although he tains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (com- failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually Peek&Poke - Childhood Museum Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections. pleted in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down History of Maritime Department consists of historical re- palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all de- constructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instru- History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life cades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world ments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds. and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments. QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1. feature film and other works inspired by the inven- from 1897.QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) tor and will be presented in cities around the globe. 09, [email protected], www.muzejdjetinjstva. 55 36 66, [email protected], www.ppmhp.hr. Open Mon The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, com. May - November Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 09:00 - 16:00, Tue - Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. This grand old dame occupying prime position on the awarding the best in show films or other works made 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn. Admission 10 - 15kn. waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija - yup, those about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure United States and Europe. With a name now immor- Peek&Poke - Computer Museum The Natural History Museum was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hun- talised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this oppor- (Prirodoslovni muzej) garian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest tunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology? Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adri- on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination. scientists the human race has ever seen. Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus atic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did en- 46 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 47 Sightseeing Rijeka Surroundings The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century An- droch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as An- drija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the be- ginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden - it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian Gallery Kortil Archives botanist who helped plant it - the very same who discov- ered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD‑1, Žrtava fašizma. 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The The Vladimir Nazor Park adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the in- (Park Vladimira Nazora) fluential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and clas- and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then be- sical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal came the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD‑1, Ri and a multitude of other offices. Šetalište Vladimira Nazora. Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Ri- jeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was Religious collections Opatija Riviera steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-of- drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian the-art beauty treatments. With major European centers unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually (Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Aus- such as Munich, Vienna and located within a 500 contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, tro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible year- Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In be- but there is also a collection in the room behind the sac- quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on round health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe. tween, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which risty including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maxi- are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top millian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a international meetings for several decades while the Hotel a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augs- dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appeal- Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legend- came under heavy fire.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije. burg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin ing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday ary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events. cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other here.QE‑1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake. local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommo- Parks 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 with prior arrangement. Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked date business meetings and seminars of all numbers and The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat Closed Sun. Admission free. central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs. (Perivoj Gospe Trsatske) maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season des- Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these The Treasury and Gallery of tination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes Volosko terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are Our Lady of Trsat (Riznica i galerija crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, tradition- Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing Svetište Gospe Trsatske) al souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat. The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, of top-class restaurants. with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside QV‑2, Trsat. and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary They say that location is the key - and it is evident that the above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradi- in Croatia - no mean boast. It has a rich collection of re- key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount tion may help to explain why it boasts some of the best The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka) ligious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it did so much to build the church and fortifications here, the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered was created in 1874 to make a break between the city cen- were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they devi- inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats. tre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hun- ate the winds that come in from the open sea. approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green. garian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect get- Lovran The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver away, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gor- is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely also have wonderful collections of religious art.QU‑1, geous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat- in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and place to rest near the train station. svetiste.com. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free. the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century vil- 48 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 49 Rijeka Surroundings Rijeka Surroundings

las - many of which have been renovated and now serve ca developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tour- as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of ists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent was also declared a health resort: the former monastery pebbly beach. where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one Kastav time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy cen- There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera tre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply as fashionable - nor as expensive - as Opatija. The reasonably breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance. a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of Opatija Tourist Information Center bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for QMaršala Tita 128, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, tic@ entry). Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See visitopatija.com, visitopatija.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until Sun 09:00 - 15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens 12:00 - 20:00. surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 35kn) is beautifully laid Crikvenica out and really fascinating. Nearby Selce is a small port a lit- Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the tle further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architec- good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment op- ture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the portunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the high- world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days. Crikveni- way from Rijeka.

Crikvenica Tourist Information Center The Memorial Centre QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, Lipa Remebers [email protected], www.rivieracrikvenica. (Memorijalni centar com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Novi Vinodolski Tourist The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril Lipa pamti) Information Center and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscrip- Novi Vinodolski QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, info@tz- tions of great historical significance have been unearthed, In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’ This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol novi-vinodolski.hr, www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic opened its doors to the public for the very first time. valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with September Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the Lipa, is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settle- fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protect- 08:00 - 21:00. shape of mushrooms and cherries! ment Kras which is situated 27 kilometres from Ri- ing the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a jeka. The Memorial Centre is dedicated to a massacre of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to which took place on April 30, 1944 when, after only a were once important centres during feudal times, and all Krk see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared few hours, Lipa lost 269 of its residents, mostly elderly have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach women and children. The crime was committed by the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded. You can see Novi the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe. Nazis and fascists within the Braunschweig offensive, Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from island but also has one of the most developed tourist in- Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a campaign aimed at wiping out partisan gangs. The miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dustries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th cen- killing of civilians was accompanied by the theft of dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are tury. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St their property, and then the arson of most residential to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important ter- Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly and commercial buildings. By the end of World War II, that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to minal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliff- the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual clover- the town’s surviving inhabitants had no home to re- the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style side centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer leaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum turn to, a tragic scene to say the least. An arduous and church with a lovely square where you can look out over settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo painstaking restoration of the village began marked by the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan for- to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the a huge sense of loss. Today, Lipa lives and remembers tress, where the Vinodol code was written - an important much the island has to offer. cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from with its attractive and modern memorial museum of legal document protecting the rights of commoners from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive World War II. It’s a way of paying homage to its fore- feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan fathers and never forgetting the past. The Centre also to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of was once the seat of the - a powerful constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural signifies the cultural and historical heritage of Kras in sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of happenings. the period from prehistory to the present day.QLipa this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the is- 35, Šapjane, tel. (+385-51) 73 22 39, lipapamti@ type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the let of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the ppmhp.hr, www.lipapamti.ppmhp.hr/. Open 10:00 maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural resorts. with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower. history section with some stuffed animals with too many 50 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 51 Rijeka Surroundings Rijeka Surroundings

its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music with the use of mirrors.QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 13, Mali lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, info@muzejapoksiomena. dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further houses the Archeological Collection of Osor. hr, www.muzejapoksiomena.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Due to the fact that tours of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close Cres Tourist Board the museum take place in limited groups it is necessary to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, info@visitcres. to book exact time and date of your visit in advance at formed incredible stalactites. hr, www.tzg-cres.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. [email protected]. Admission 40 - 115kn. J June 1 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 Krk Tourist Information Center - 13:00. Mali Lošinj Tourist Board QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 QPriko 42, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 15 47, losinj@ 02 26, [email protected], www.tz-krk.hr. June, September visitlosinj.hr, www.tz-malilosinj.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. Lošinj Sun 09:00 - 13:00. You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and Cres the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some Rab The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies. anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a pas- set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to Photo by Marša Gajinov ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural envi- senger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing ronment and its towns and villages just as they should be. and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the Cres town is today’s capital of the island. The gothic archi- featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty. tecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long con- larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Su- OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing. nection with - it was annexed to the Venetian Re- sak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it public for much of the period between the year 1000 and for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one including a festival of olive oil. gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky. of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small chil- 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and pre- Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful dren. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be historic and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shin- exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel gle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just unpretentious feel. arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a Apoxyomenos Archives, Photo by Maja Bosnić & Ivan Dorotić A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around beach to suit everyone. Whether you’re a fan of fine grains brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thal- of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside assotherapy facility there today. spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. well worth taking a taxi boat over. absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Apoxyomenos On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swim- Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic in- The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists primar- beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently fac- ming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, scription in Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple ily because of its majestic bays and lush green vegetation. ing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km of pleasant restaurants. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the Museum scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is home to chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young athlete itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little you don’t mind the crowds at high season. Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in the vicinity to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved and beau- opportunities. Rab town is quite a different matter. This is topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres be- tifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value presumed where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow low you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The Croatian narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a well-pre- to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most de- served original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It portrays a cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for termined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting young athlete who has just completed his bout or exercise, skyline. The summer season is punctuated with historical generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the over- exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings. thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when he is about to displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the eve- whelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned Moving south again towards the point where a short road clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. apoxyesis), and this nings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything. bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by is why it is called the Apoxyomenos. The Kvarner Palace is bars and a couple of clubs. Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants. beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. The exhibition dis- If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a de- ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor play is defined by nine scenes and transition zones shaped Rab Tourist Board tour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon town, which once used to be the administrative centre by time and space, and accompanied by audio background. QTrg Municipium Arba 8, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, info@ give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the The final room is all white with Apoxyomenos the solitary rab-visit.com, www.rab-visit.com. June, September and when you come to the village you start to think of Tus- sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see hero. Thereafter, the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplen- Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August cany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if dent lookout of various sequences from the Lošinj harbour Open 08:00 - 21:00. 52 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 53 Health Tourism vironment, the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff, medical services which meet European quality standards, prices which are significantly lower than in many other developed countries and proximity to most European capitals.

Available treatments A wide range of treatments and programmes are available in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beau- ty treatments and more. There are also a number of centres offering Thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments are based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surger- ies, as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health insurance system.

Clinics & Hospitals Katunar All-round heath care services, check-ups, tests, samples and more. Website available.QDr. Ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 51 32, poliklinika.katunar@ Thalassotherapia Opatija Archives inet.hr, www.poliklinika-katunar.hr. A

Health has a history dating back to 1868 Medico when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email.QE‑1/2, health and wellbeing. Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/(+385-51) 26 39 91, [email protected], www.medico.hr. A Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the Poliklinika Medikol Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised medical depart- people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the ments, centrally positioned. Contact via phone or email. 19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by QO‑3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51) 68 80 30, fax (+385- the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889, 51) 68 80 39, [email protected], www.medikol.hr. A Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort. Pro Vita Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica, Full range of specific and general examinations, check- Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as ups also available. Full details on website or contact via a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea email.QC‑2, Trpimirova 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 24 60, salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is [email protected], www.poliklinika- very beneficial for the respiratory system. provita.hr. A

The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed Villa Elite the development of seaside tourism as we know it today. Hospital clinic for maxillofacial, general and plastic sur- Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing gery. More info via website.QNova cesta 46b, Opatija, can find the following services here: seawater treatments tel. (+385-51) 27 10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, zoran@ (thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal zgaljardic.surgery. A waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either inde- Zambelli pendently or within hotels. Specialising in aesthetic surgery, modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via phone or email.QE‑1, Žrtava Health tourism has great potential for future develop- fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75 55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, ment in this region due to the well-preserved natural en- [email protected], www.mariozambelli.com. A 54 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com Health Tourism Health Tourism

phone.QPetra Jurčića 2a, tel. (+385-51) 37 71 35/(+385-) Five Elements Wellness & Spa Marina 091 401 81 10, [email protected], www.viadent.hr. A Wellness dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals (Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials.QAleja Slatina 2, Moščenička Draga, www. Health & Spa liburnia.hr. Gordana Poščić Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre with monitored Novi Spa Hotels & Resort treatment. For more info visit their website or contact The largest wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offer- them via email.QR‑3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+385-51) ing massages, swimming pools, fitness centre and vari- 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 99, [email protected], www. ous beauty treatments. The rejuvenation haven!QNovi fizio-gp.hr. A Vinodolski, [email protected], www.novi.hr.

Laurana Spa Medical wellness centre, various therapeutic services and Alternative medicine saunas, Kneipp showers and gym.QŠetalište Maršala Tita Many people consider alternative medicine to be an excel- 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 38 51, [email protected], lent supplement to conventional medical treatments. In www.laurana.wellness.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Croatia, some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in Sun. A the area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is Terme Selce an association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual If you decide to do something for your long term healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alterna- Photonet Archives health and wellbeing by enrolling in a programme at tive medicine in the country. On its website, www.huped. the Terme Selce medical facility, you have the option hr, you’ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches Dentists Dr.Karolina Kokić Borić to stay in one of their comfortable on-site apartments of alternative medicine. Dental Studio Vukanović All dental treatments, aesthetic dental work, all ages. More complete with kitchenette and internet connection. Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and A complete list of dental services with the patients needs info via website.QIvana Zajca 4/1, Krk, tel. (+385-51) Q1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart priority one. Contact them for more info.QK‑3, Lošinjska 22 12 83/(+385-) 091 511 84 44, karolina.kokic.boric@ 40 55, fax (+385-51) 76 83 10, [email protected], from that, you’ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy 16, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 60, [email protected], gmail.com, www.ordinacija-kokic-boric.hr. A www.terme-selce.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and www.dental-vukanovic.hr. A 14:00. Closed Sun. A oriental massage. Kalmar Implant Dentistry Dentin - Dr. Jasminka Bočina All types of dental treatment, surgery and therapy on offer. Thalassotherapia Crikvenica Private dental practice, aesthetic and conservative den- Visit their web site.QIzviđačka 2a, tel. (+385-51) 26 23 63, Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment Fitness & Beauty tistry. More info via website.QM‑2, Kršinićeva 16/1, tel. [email protected], www.kalmar.hr. A of respiratory organs and the locomotor system.QGa- Kantrida (+385-51) 64 50 01, [email protected], www. jevo šetalište 21, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 76 66, Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness, massage, medical ordinacija-bocina.hr. A Pavličević - Kustić fax (+385-51) 78 50 62, [email protected], www. programs.QJ‑3, Istarska bb (Kantrida Swimming pools), Family tradition, all dental procedures on offer. More thalasso-ck.hr. tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, [email protected], www. Dentorium info on their website.QPreradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel. blue-gym.com. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:30, Specialists in aesthetic implantology and prosthet- (+385-51) 24 15 22, [email protected], www. Thalassotherapia Opatija Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 ics. Website has all the information.QD‑2, Medulićeva pavlicevic-kustic.hr. A The truest expression of Opatija’s famous health tourism - - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 75, [email protected], www. it’s connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy Closed Sun. A dentorium.hr. A Rident spa and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old All necessary dental treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel Opatija villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, Scipion Dent Vitalis free to contact them for more information.QM‑2, Ulica tastefully decorated accommodation with a seawater pool Physiotherapy, recreation and physical preparation of ath- Centre for implantology, prosthetics and general den- Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64 89 00, info@rident. and healthy restaurant.QMaršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. letes.QMilutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68 45 tistry. All details are on their website.QO‑3, Krešimirova hr, www.rident.hr. A (+385-51) 20 26 00, [email protected]. 76, [email protected], www.scipion.hr. Open 09:00 60, tel. (+385-51) 68 83 80, [email protected], www. hr, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. Open 07:00 - - 21:00. Closed Sun - (fitness). Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat dentvitalis.com. A Škodadent 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A 09:00 - 15:00. Sun - (physiotherapy). A Private clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit Dr. Blašković their website.QM‑2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 Dentistry is the key as they offer complete dental services. 37 66, [email protected], www.skodadent.com. A Wellness Organic & Natural View their website or contact via phone or email.QR‑2, Comfort Zone Space Bonavia Bio&Bio Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62 17, [email protected], Smile Studio Choose from relaxation treatments, beauty programmes, Eco/Organic food products, supplements and cosmetics www.blaskovic.com. A Varied dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their thematic bath showers and saunas, fitness.QC‑2, Dolac 4 store.QD‑2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 32 14 82, ri1@ website for details.QM‑2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), www.bonavia.hr. A biobio.com.hr, www.biobio.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Dr. Jelušić 78, [email protected], www.smilestudio.hr. A 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Centre for dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam Five Elements Wellness & Spa Ambasador tech. Visit their website or contact via email.QMatuljska ViaDent Wellness with water! Numerous swimming pools, sau- L’occitane cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 50, [email protected], Private dental practice offers dental diagnostics and ther- nas, baths, massage showers, and ice fountain.QFeliksa Natural French cosmetics from the Provence and Mediter- www.jelusic.com. A apy. Full details on the web or contact them via email or Peršića 5, Opatija, www.liburnia.hr. ranean region, we recommend immortelle based beauty 56 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 57 Health Tourism Health Tourism

line for adult skin.QC‑2, Korzo 40b, tel. (+385-51) 58 30 Zeleni vir and the Vražji 32, [email protected], www.loccitane.hr. Open Health insurance prolaz canyon, 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun, July, August Croatia osiguranje The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A QC‑2, Korzo 39, tel. (+385-51) 20 77 77, [email protected], formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to www.crosig.hr. the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from LS Kozmetika an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn Natural handmade cosmetics used for healing, developed Sunce osiguranje serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild from scented herbs from the Lošinj-Cres archipelago. All QD‑2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 50 10 04, podruznica- mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries. products can be found on the island hotels Punta, Aurora [email protected], www.sunce.hr. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz - or the and Apoksiomen, as well as in the Muškardin pharmacy. Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the [email protected], www.lskozmetika.hr. Uniqa rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries QD‑2, Korzo 11, tel. (+385-51) 35 92 00, [email protected], and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end Nikel www.uniqa.hr. you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, Natural cosmetics line, 61 products, find them in all dm- stalactites and a small underground lake. shops and selected pharmacies. More info via website. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 Qwww.nikel.com.hr. Field trips motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tz-skrad.hr. Birdwatching In this region there are several sites where you can spot The Frog Museum, Lokve Health Tourism Agencies birds. Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this Croatia Medical Travel which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information, upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always QMaršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 34 30 59, see Birdwatching Croatia. played an important role in peoples’ lives. Although the [email protected], www.croatia- less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on medical-travel.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun The Dolphin Path, Lošinj island someone’s dinner plate, this museum has been created by Rijeka Sport Archives 10:00 - 18:00. A Lošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. The best known someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain an of these is the Dolphin Path which skirts the southern part insight into their secret lives, and learn about their role in lead to the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 swimming of the island. Since the waters around the island have been the culture of the region, including literature and art. The years old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell’s Gate), an impressive designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of the little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in rock formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja Yup, you’re right! From the centre of Rijeka you can’t see friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the Blue the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba), (the “Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger through- too many sparkling beaches. So where do the locals go World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet.org), Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-) 099 305 50 out the summer months. There is a restaurant at the park for a dip? In the city itself there are about 20 beaches visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors’ centre in Veli 77. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 10kn. entrance where you can sample regional specialities. Info: which are located to the east and west with two of Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one! www.tz-lokve.hr. them even carrying the Blue Flag title - the newly ar- Brseč, near Opatija ranged award winning Ploče beach ranked as the best Journeys through Dobrinj, A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlook- urban local beach in Croatia and the other is Kostanj Dobrinj, Krk island ing the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings Go Gourmet beach. These beaches vary in sizes and configuration This attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications The gastronomy of this part of Croatia is based on fresh, with additional facilities, hospitality and children’s play- in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island’s and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč simple ingredients: both healthy and highly enjoyable. The grounds. authentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Su- cuisine of the coastal belt is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean The grand eastern neighbourhood of Pećine has clean, culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85 sak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount in character, and as such is low in saturated fats, with olive rocky beaches and historic villas. Further east, in Kos- 21 07 or 84 83 44. Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol. oil mainly used in cooking. Olive oil contains monounsatu- trena, try the lovely Žurkovo cove. To the west of the rated oleic acid which may help in keeping arteries healthy. city, the beaches spread from Kantrida across Bivio Mount Učka Jadranovo, near Rijeka Herbs such as garlic, parsley, sage, rosemary, bay and oth- to Preluk which is perfect for windsurfers and has a The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous peb- ers are used to flavour cooking. The Mediterranean diet is great view of Opatija. Public transport will get you to all spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with bly coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the me- varied and includes plentiful seasonal fruits and vegetables. beaches and if you’re lucky enough to have a car, there 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a dicinal mud in the Lokvišće bay. Most families prepare food from fresh ingredients at home. is free parking in most places nearby. Bus No.1 rides wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: All of this means that people from Croatia’s coast are often towards the east to Pećine and to Bivio to the west. you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at The Risnjak National Park, Gorski kotar enviably healthy. Bus No. 32 rides to Preluk. The Rijeka Tourist Board has your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and brochure with maps of all beaches and their surround- the Velebit mountain range. More info on www.pp-ucka.hr. three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here: While you’re on the coast, it’s a pity not to enjoy a nice piece ing amenities which can be picked up at their offices or wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can of fresh fish. Some of the most common types include simply download it from the web. Horse riding, Jelenje take part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking - as orada (sea bream), brancin (sea bass), škarpina (scorpion Horse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding well as indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak fish), zubatac (dentex), skuša (mackerel), tuna (meaning Kantrida Swimming Pools club at Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about National Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+385- obvious!), srdele (sardines) and gavuni (smelt, similar to QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 66 66 00, bazeni- 20 horses, more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, 51) 83 61 33, [email protected], www.risnjak.hr. anchovies). [email protected], www.rijekasport.hr/ warmbloods, half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way BazeniKantrida. Open 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, to get to know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik Lokve, Gorski kotar Interestingly, however, just a few kilometres inland the food 20:00 - 22:30, Wed, Fri 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, town itself with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of A village in the Gorski kotar region, this is where you’ll find people prepare is quite different. Up in the hills, you’ll be 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. the Rječina river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: the largest cave equipped for visitors in Croatia: the Gol- offered vegetable stews, game, home-made dairy produce, 10 - 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month. Konjički klub Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 ubinje cave, which is located in the forest park of the same home-smoked meats, hearty winter casseroles with beans, 522 18 20, 091 25 58 666, [email protected]. name. The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which lentils, chickpeas, sour cabbage and pickled beets. 58 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 59 Health Tourism Shopping vina For all wine lovers, wide range of Croatian and interna- tional wines.QC‑2, Riva 20a, tel. (+385-51) 62 75 16, [email protected], www.dobravina.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A | c r o a t i a n s h o e manufacturer | Goranska borovnica The Borovo Company is the caoutchouc that is also produced Family run farm, fresh fruit, homemade teas, soaps, jams, best-known shoe manufacturer in in the factory. Following the idea fruit liquors, dry fruits.QBelo selo, Fužine, tel. (+385-) 091 Croatia, having the longest tradi- of unique quality shoes, Borovo 512 47 12, [email protected], www.goranska- tion, heritage and love towards designers create simple yet mod- borovnica.com. shoes. Founded in 1931, with ern cozy footwear that is crafted Kvarner Tourist Board Archives headquarters located in Vukovar, with special care and love by at Gospoja during the past 85 years, Borovo least 20 caring hands. has built its identity not only in The Big Blue An agricultural collective which has a winery, a highly- Croatia but in the entire region by regarded restaurant, a pizzeria and a wine-tasting room. producing stylish, urban, casual This is a great place to try Krk island specialities, and you and sports footwear. can both try and buy their wines and spirits.QFrankopan- Materials used in production ska 1, Vrbnik, Krk Island, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@ are all of the natural origins such gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr. as leather, 100% cotton canvas Brands like Startas, Borosana, and natural rubber made from Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and Kastavski spomeni My Ballerinas The Big Blue are modern and stylish Situated in a building over 300 years old, you can find shoes for different generations and delicacies from the coast; rakija, cheese, marmalades, li- Startas Pink unicorn lifestyles. has been featured in Startas sneakers are entirely Kvarner Tourist Board Archives quors, olive oil, honey and various handmade souvenirs. fashion magazine Vogue. handmade, vegan, with coolest QJurja Vlaha 4, Kastav, tel. (+385-) 098 988 14 14, info@ designs. kastavski-spomeni-to.hr, www.kastavski-spomeni-to. BOROVO STORES IN RIJEKA: hr. Open April 15 - October 15 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Korzo 12 croatian souvenir Mon, Tue. Krešimirova 12A www.borovo.hr

Natura Rab Organic products from the island of Rab, olive oil, island Antiques open for more then 40 years. It has contributed greatly to Ri- delicacies, honey products and oh so more.QBarbat 677, Mali neboder jeka’s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Rab, www.natura-rab.hr. Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small Morčić - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery lamps and sculptures.QE‑2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 OPG Magriž offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign 54 03, [email protected], www.mala-galerija.hr. Traditional methods to produce krčki sir (Krk cheese), languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more. Take Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kvarner Tourist Board Archives wine and olive oil.Q17. travanj 9, Kornić, tel. (+385-51) the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC‑2, Ciotti- 85 13 51. na 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, [email protected], Velčić Game ranges from rabbit, wild boar and venison to bear www.antikvarijat-mali-neboder.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, North of Koblerov trg, a lovely large gallery with the per- steaks. If you get the chance to try venison goulash, do, it’s OPG Pintar Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, July, August Open 09:00 manent exhibition of the artist Velčić, plus sale of works by delicious, and often prepared with cranberries, dried blue- Offering different cheeses such as čabarski škripavac, - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. A many other Croatian artists.QD‑1, Pod kaštelom 5, tel. berries or prunes. You may come across unusual items such činkel cheese, apple juice without additives, herbal li- (+385-51) 33 21 49, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 13:00, as bear paws (medvjeđa šapa) and the edible dormouse queurs, blueberry liqueurs etc. Their products can be pur- Triton 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. (puh). chased at the market in Delnice.QNarodnog oslobođenja Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments. 23, Čabar, tel. (+385-51) 82 10 89, opg.pintar@gmail. QF‑2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13 Throughout the region island lamb is considered a spe- com, www.pintar.hr. 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, [email protected]. Delicatessen cial treat. Alongside the famous cheese from the town of Open 09:30 - 17:00. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A Deliiicije Grobnik (grobnički sir), Croatian smoked prosciutto (pršut) Rijeka Fish Market Delicacy shop with a Croatian knack that offers national and is irresistible. Get in bright and early for that fresh catch in an atmo- imported wines, rakija, homemade cakes such as the fa- sphere that is vibrant, jovial and dynamic, a true picture Art galleries mous Rapska cake and other savouries.QE‑2, A. Starčevića When it comes to desserts, regional specialities include of this port city. Laval 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, [email protected], www. smokvenjak - a cake made from pressed dried figs; Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glass- deliiicije.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A presnac made from sheeps’ milk, and cakes made from the Sirana Runolist ware.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33, sweet juicy chestnuts that the resort of Lovran is famous for Say ‘cheese’! 100% natural with the assorted cheese, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - Gligora (lovranski maruni). škripavac cheese, Velebit cheese, fresh ewe milk cheese, 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. truffles cheese and more. Can be found in the Kvarner re- It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised Locally, it’s considered a healthy habit to enjoy a drop of gion and the Rijeka Market.QŠpilnički odvojak 5, Otočac, Mala galerija cheeses.QE‑2, City Market, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-51) wine at the end of your meal -a crisp white žlahtina from tel. (+385-53) 77 11 77, [email protected], In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is 31 30 00, [email protected], www.gligora. Vrbnik on Krk island goes down a treat. www.sirana-runolist.com.hr. the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa. It has been com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. 60 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 61 Shopping Hotels Vinoteka 1 affordaBLE ART An atmospheric old shop on the market where you 4 Stars can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the Grand Hotel Bonavia Acrylic paintings of people barrel.QE‑3, Demetrova 14a, [email protected], QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 71 00, fax (+385-51) 33 by Tomo Vukas www.blato1902.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 59 69, [email protected], www.bonavia.hr. doubles In his words, ‘the pencil is my weapon, my dreams, - 13:00. A €128 - 164. P ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­W my drawings, my sculptures, my fight with myself. I hhhh paint simple topics, usually the sea, and observers strain to taste the wind’s breath, the salty air, and Gifts & Souvenirs Hotel Jadran listen to the breathing of the waves.’ Vukas lives for Filatelija QS‑3, Šetalište XIII divizije 46, tel. (+385-51) 49 40 00/ his work and his expression, works in acrylic that Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection. (+385-51) 49 40 11, fax (+385-51) 21 64 58, jadran@ impart old and forgotten stories through his repre- QF‑1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26, filatelija@ jadran-hoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms sentation of the people and the city in which they ri.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat (28 singles €82 - 97, 35 doubles €97 - 114, 3 triples €160, live, to a new generation. Art from the heart! QRi- 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 1 suite €245, 2 Junior Suite €144). P ­H ­A ­R ­U ­I ­ jeka, tel. (+385-) 091 564 68 00, vukas.t@gmail. 12:00. Closed Sun. N G ­B ­K ­W h h h h com, www.tomovukasart.com. Šta da? Morčić of the new generation The name of this funky little shop that sells original and 3 Stars by Vilim Luksetić unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catch- Continental Turning natural coral ‘red gold’ as well as raw sea phrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of QF‑1, Šetalište Andrije Kačića-Miošića 1, tel. (+385 51) materials including sea shells, sponges, pearl, oys- the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole 37 20 08, fax (+385-51) 37 20 09, kontinental@jadran- ters, turtle shells, and other coral into lavish jewel- new meaning.QE‑2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 58 78 hoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms (13 singles lery items, the Morčić of the 21st century, appreciat- 97, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat €72, 50 doubles €90, 1 triple €122, 4 suites €110, 1 Ju- ed and valued all over the world. Choose from very 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A nior Suite €151). A ­6 ­K h h h modern to classical bracelets, necklaces, earrings, Neboder broaches, rings, pendants, and more. Essential, QF‑1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 49 31 40/(+385- original, elegant!QMaršala Tita 93/7, Opatija, tel. Made in Croatia 51) 49 32 00, fax (+385-51) 49 32 99, neboder@jadran- (+385-51) 27 28 72, www.morsko-blago.hr. Borovo Grand Hotel Bonavia Archives hotel.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 54 rooms (8 singles Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures €63 - 68, 46 doubles €79 - 85). P ­J ­H ­A ­6 ­I ­L ­ Umbrella by Vjekoslav VOJO and exports new collections as well as redesigned As Rijeka is becoming a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no G­K hhh Radoičić classics such as the already popular Startas which surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation op- An umbrella is always handy to have and the city happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There tions from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private ac- umbrellas of Rijeka bear vivid and colourful mo- is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s commodation of different categories and prices. While on Hostel tives of city landmarks which were authentically best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Cro- the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In Botel Marina designed and created by Vojo Radoičić. This artist, atian souvenir or gift…QD‑2, Korzo 12, tel. (+385- recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town QC‑2/3, Adamićev gat bb, tel. (+385-51) 41 01 62/(+385- painter, printmaker, illustrator, set designer, sculp- 51) 33 29 12, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to ) 098 25 82 20, [email protected], www.botel- tor, and author of children’s picture books will en- Closed Sun. A the arrangement of the interior. Private accommodation with marina.com. 35 rooms (1 single €37 - 43, 12 doubles sure this take home souvenir will have you singing apartments and flats are always in demand while the hotel €25 - 28, 7 triples €20 - 24, 12 quads €17 - 21, 3 Dorm: in the rain… Guliver offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique hotels. €15 - 19) 35 rooms, 19 - 47€ per person. P ­i ­J ­H ­ High quality accessories from another Croatian manu- Detailed information in reference to all types of accommoda- A ­R ­6 ­U ­L ­G ­K ­W h h h facturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, tion is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Kušaonica Frajona scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket! Dharma Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Mer- belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-51) 56 21 08/(+385-) 095 lot Barrique or Žlahtina), plus a selection of international wines with the times but valued.QS‑3, Tower Centar, Janka 844 95 67, fax (+385-51) 58 35 74, info@dharmahostels. and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was Polića Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 42 20 95, www. SYMBOL key com, www.dharmahostels.com/hr. 12 rooms, 22 - 36€ a bit of a party going on when we were there!QC‑2, Riva 16, tel. guliver.hr. Open Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Tue 09:00 - 21:00, per person. P ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­L ­G ­K ­W (+385-51) 32 13 33. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Sun 10:00 - 21:00. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino H Conference facilities Kosy Piko delicije Mari Cro design studio QE‑2, Užarska 1, tel. (+385-) 091 361 28 91, hostelkosy@ A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled gmail.com, www.hostelkosy.com. 17 dorm beds, 135 - by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee intended for those who look for something different and F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 180kn per person. P ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­W instead!QE‑2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, pik. unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, [email protected], www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30 - shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly Youth Hostel Rijeka 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic K Restaurant J Old town location QR/S‑3, Šetalište XIII. divizije 23, tel. (+385-51) 40 64 and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian de- 20, fax (+385-51) 40 64 21, [email protected], www.hfhs.hr. D Sauna C Swimming pool Pip signers.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02, 13 rooms (3 singles €28 - 35, 3 doubles €20 - 25, 4 quads Home produced honey.QE‑2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 I Fireplace W Wifi €15 - 17, 1 1/5 Dormitory €14 - 16, 3 1/6 Dormitory €14 - 21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - - 13:30. Closed Sun, July 21 - August 22 Open 09:00 - 16, 2 1/8 Dormitory €13 - 15) 13 rooms, 61 dorm beds, B Outside seating 13:00. Closed Sun. A 17:00. Closed Sun. A 10.70 - 37€ per person. i ­T ­A ­6 ­G ­B ­K ­W 62 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 63 Maps & Index Maps & Index

Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Drenovski put P-1 Istarsko pristanište C-2 Kružna C-2 Nikole Tesle A-1 Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Školjić E-1 Veslarska E-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Kumičićeva R-3, S-3 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Riva boduli D-3 Titov trg F-1 Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1 Nova Ciottina C-1 Ružićeva F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Vinka Benca M-2, N-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 La Guardia B-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Viškovo L-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Liburnijska L-3 Osječka N-1, O-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Trg Grivica E-1 Vodovodna E-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Linićeva V-1, V-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Vrlije V-1 Baštijanova P-2 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Vukovarska N-2, O-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Ljudevita Matešića B-1 Partizanski put U-1 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Wenzelova E-3 Blaža Polića B-1 Franje Čandeka N-2 Jadranski trg C-2 Lorenzov prolaz D-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Splitska C-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Zadarska C-2 Bošket U-1, U-2 F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Lošinjska K-3 Pavlinski trg E-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Zagrebačka D-3 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Frankopanski trg U-1 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Marka Remsa P-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Zametska L-2, M-2 Brajda A-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3 Pod kaštelom D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Zanonova C-2, D-2 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Matačićeva E-3 Pod voltun D-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Gomila D-1 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Matije Gupca E-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Studentska B-1 Trninina E-3 Zvonimirova M-2, N-2 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Grivica E-2 Kalvarija E-1 Meštrovićeva L-2 Preluk G-2, G-3 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Trpimirova C-2 Žabica B-2, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Kastavska G-1 Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Grobnička riva E-3 Kazališni park E-3 Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2 Pul vele crikve E-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Uski prolaz B-2 Delta F-2 Grohovo E-1 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Miroslava Krleže J-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Mljekarski trg E-2 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Užarska E-2 Dolac C-2, D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Moše Albaharija B-1 Radićeva U-2 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Drage Šćitara V-2 Istarska J-3 Križanićeva F-1 Muzejski trg D-1 Ribarska E-2 Šime Ljubića D-2 Verdieva D-3

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18 i e o r rezolucije r i v R I j b Trg 12 t d a a . e ka N Užars o k 8 Ivana M l s 2 i g t A š 1 a Koblera t v Jadranski g Korz r e A o H trg Tr Mljekarski Trpim e trg iro k va i l n a e ć b 17 ri k d d u n s i a p t r a C e a Pavlinski Žabica K v i vk a v o j A i a R l a r da r z e m o Trg r S k ić trg k eva g H ća Delta s Sv. Barbare i s Tr v r RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus t e a K i 2 č a r l v ta Jelačićev a d p e S č o e K a 2 d e a k o t i S ć a trg k n s r n j z Z g A a i č o o o r v b o 1 Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole n M . e k a 1 k i 1 s s o t Z 1 a a š a pin r U 2 University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art R g v i e ca i va r S ć

Tr k Budim H a peštans c k n 3 Maritimeo p randista Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace a nište TOUCH e 16 k 13 M s H a SCREEN tije r 4 City Museum B a . G e a čk up k o pris 22 KIOSK I l ca Delta 2 ta s R ništ R s e iva r 5 Natural History Museum e J I a sta V E rsko b p i ristanište Č 6 Palace of Justice R Adam Gat Ivana I N ZAGREB ićev Ka Zajca 7 St. Vitus’ Church gat roline A Riječke 8 St. Sebastian’s Church v e SPLIT v i Kazališni g i o h l o park c 9 Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum d Ve 15 t u rd k s iev SPLIT n a a d s e t a g o n l c i 10 The Roman Arch “Old Gateway” a r B n s g i O a a L r 11 Old Town Hall in Rijeka v i F a 14 a a v R v n e i 12 Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower a e l n D ć a i s i Za v g n r č eb o ač o r 13 “Modello” Palace ka a l t Tr t e a a z V n 14 Main market M a v i r RIJEKA centar We 15 Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc” RIJEKA centar a Dem k 16 Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas etr č ova i n 3 17 City Tower b o r 18 “Ploech” Palace G 19 Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes 20 Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery TOUCH SCREEN 3 21 Railway station KIOSK Senjsko prist 2 anište 1 /

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64 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2016 65 M N O P Q R S T D RUPA r DONJA DRENOVA e n PULAC o v Kučići s k i p u t AUTOMOTODROM GROBNIK ŠKURINJSKA DRAGA GROBNIK: STARI GRAD AERODROM GROBNIK Šmit Žakalj

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