TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION 2013 fragrances & cosmetics supplement

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01 Authentic accords Burberry’s decision earlier this year to take its fragrance and cosmetics business in-house turned many a head in travel retail as one of the industry’s most iconic luxury brands staked its claim on its own scent operations. The move was a telling indication of the weight that companies accord to ancestry and authenticity, and the necessity for a compelling concept is growing increasingly clear, as more and more perfume houses come forth with iconic fragrances that embody the values of their brand. Amy Hanna explores the importance of story telling in the fragrance sector.

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01 Modern Muse, the new Eau de Toilette by Esteé The fragrance category is evolving makes their decision for them. RH16). It hired French perfumer Francis Lauder, was inspired by the brand’s dynamic creator, with an impetus unreplicated in any More and more often in the battle Krukdjan to create fragrances that are and designed to compliment every aspect of the life of the modern woman. The scent captures her other market. The proliferation of for the consumer, while packaging, inherently Burberry, and inject its refer- essence with a lush floral, woody aroma, and is a true products in the segment has scent promotion and perfume all weigh ences with the brand’s familiar lineage. statement in modern luxury. brands grappling for the attention in, an enticing back-story and As expected, the Brit Rhythm fragrance of the consumer – the deluge of esteemed reputation is winning out for men, the brand’s first scent since the 02 MAVIVE International Sales Manager Emanuele Riva: “In the travel retail market consumers look for intermingling smells in every duty in the end. Burberry Beauty division was formed more authenticity in their product and are showing an free store serving as a olfactory in April 2013, has fast become one of increasing interest in niche fragrances, focusing on reminder of the category’s satura- Burberry’s strategic shift to cut its the sector’s most prominent product ingredients, production methods and brand heritage.” tion. In travel retail, the customer’s licensing ties and bring its lucrative launches of the year, and intrinsically

03 Sexy and provocative, and rooted in the experimental and impulsive buying cosmetics and fragrance operations ‘Burberry’ it is. Inspiration from music energy of music, Brit Rhythm is the first habits dilute the influence of brand back in house was a declaration that courses through the scent as it does fragrance to be unveiled by the British allegiance on their choices, and its fragrances business would adjust through the catwalk shows of Creative brand since its brought its lucrative beauty when loyalty doesn’t carry much its focus towards the brand’s heritage Chief Officer Christopher Bailey, who business back in house and, as anticipated, possesses qualities inherently ‘Burberry’. weight; it’s a brand’s legacy that and British eccentricity (Riviera Village said: “Sexy and provocative, Brit Rhythm

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04 Being presented by Confinluxe, the intoxicating DALI WILD by Parfums Salvador Dali is a passionate, assertive scent that serves as tribute to Salvador Dali, whose works of art and life were deeply inspired by the world of cats.

05 Profumitalia’s newest offering, Whitehall by HUGH PARSONS, integrates the modern and the traditional, and fulfils the consumer’s need for niche in an affordable price bracket.

is inspired by the exhilaration and inspiration to ascribe to a fragrance can Parfum, is an anecdotal accord that quality ingredients and the distinc- adrenaline of live music and the electric make a marked difference. Brands are encapsulates the tradition of the French tive signature and memorability of its energy of the crowd.” Its heavily digital working hard to establish their products brand (Riviera Village RE18). “Our presence. These aspects are the ways marketing campaign is also an arche- as distinctly there own, and its seems founder, Estée Lauder was an amazing in which Modern Muse continues and typal aspect of the social media-savvy that personalisation is proving as entic- muse, inspiring women of all ages with evolves Estée Lauder’s tradition of brand’s strategy. ing a factor as any base or top note. her dynamic personality, creativity fragrance creativity and innovation.” In an increasingly crowded market- Esteé Lauder’s newest reference, the and brilliant, connective storytelling,” place, having an intriguing history and floral and woody Modern Muse Eau de described Karyn Khoury, Senior Vice The rise of niche President, Corporate Fragrance Devel- “In the travel retail market, consum- opment Worldwide, The Estée Lauder ers look for more authenticity in their Companies Inc. “She always understood product and are showing an increasing the power of a muse, and while inspiring interest in niche fragrances, focusing others, she also took inspiration from on ingredients, production methods and the women around her, especially her brand heritage,” explained Emanuele beloved customers. This heritage of Riva, International Sales Manager at inspiring and being inspired by women; renowned perfumer MAVIVE. Be it the of artistic creativity; of dynamic confi- profusion of products they are faced with dence and of balancing strength and or the pursuit of a new and uncommon softness is part of Estée Lauder’s DNA. It accord, consumers are clamouring for is also the foundation for the creation of the genuine, paying more attention than Modern Muse.” ever to where their purchases come from Arguably the heredity of a brand its and what goes into them. Le parfum most unique asset, and when standing Boasting a heritage deeply rooted in out is the secret to survival, emphasis- history, centuries old perfumery RANCÉ ing individuality becomes increasingly 1795 (Yellow Village A51) is emphasising important. “What makes Modern Muse the necessity for travel retail buyers to very different from other fragrances on follow the domestic market’s acceptance the market,” Khoury said, “is its unique of niche fragrance creators and “be less ‘dual-impression’ construction, the conservative, and share the benefits of delicious sense of luxury conveyed by having rare perfumes”. Patrick Pace, its texture, the richness of the highest International Development Director

Riva: In the travel retail market, consumers look for more authenticity in their product and are showing an increasing interest in niche fragrances, focusing on ingredients, production methods and brand heritage

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explained: “The main issue is for them “Customers are very interested in unique to see the market demand, and follow products and that is why Profumitalia the trend of the perfume industry. It is a has decided in recent years to focus on reality that consumers want to find new niche and artistic fragrances,” Cesaroni offerings of perfumes outside those of said Profumitalia’s newest offering, the usual 20 commercial brands.” Whitehall by HUGH PARSONS, integrates Pace is evidently onto something. RANCÉ the modern and the traditional, and 1795’s refined, French Aristocracy- fulfils the consumer’s need for niche in inspired scents have had overwhelming an affordable price bracket. “Consider- success with Nuance Watson at Singa- ing that the duty free market is opening pore Changi Airport, where customers up these new opportunities, we might extolled over the relatively unseen have a great chance being in the niche individuality of the high-end brand. segment. In certain markets however, “When big duty free operators begin to such as Asia and Latin America, embrace niche fragrances they are giving demand is still very much focused themselves an opportunity to tap into a on branded products,” she said. pool of new customers who, never to be forgotten, deserve choice. We wish for Another chapter buyers to be bold, not to be the slave of Much as prominent fragrance companies the ordinary, and trust what we say for are instilling their products with herit- a win-win cooperation,” Pace added. age, brands in other sectors are leverag- Profumitalia’s (Yellow Village 51) Brand ing their own sprawling histories as part and Export Manager Emy Cesaroni added of their first forays into fragrance. Inter that opportunities for bespoke fragrance Parfums (Ambassadeurs Village V9) is brands are now beginning to transpire in presenting the first fragrance by Repetto the travel retail arena. “The latest trends – the creator of luxury, artisanal ballet in fragrance across the markets show a wear – which, according to Repetto presi- growing emergence of niche fragrances dent Jean-Marc Gaucher, is a “logical which is influencing certain segments continuation of the panoply of what a – even travel retailers have started evalu- luxury brand can offer its consumers”. ating these ranges.” The brand’s widely recognised and According to Michael Edwards’ well-celebrated reputation is pivotal Fragrances of the World report, while to its success. “This is the main asset only 21 new niche scents were released of Repetto,” stated Pierre Desaulles, in 1992 the phenomenon has ballooned, Marketing Director, Inter Parfums. Embodying the values of the women that inspired it, the Repetto fragrance, being introduced by Inter Parfums, has an elegant aura driven by a subtle signature with witnessing the launch of 331 niche “The brand itself is full of stories and rose at its spine, opening into optimistic pear and cherry blossom accords. fragrances 20 years later in 2012. anecdotes. It is undeniable that it is great

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asset when it comes to consumers that Meanwhile, for some of the market’s are familiar with the brand. But on top of most discerning customers, the delivery that, even consumers that do not know of an arresting narrative could be one Mariotti: the brand can be stunned by the emotion of the only factors considered in the Innovation, added value, that goes beyond just a brand name. The purchase of products. For companies dance theme is the strongest element, that create perfumes for children, uncompromising quality are our its consistency, its authenticity. It talks to product selection is everything, and major development criteria everyone – dance is part of international creating the right story matters. “Yes, culture and heritage.” yes and yes it does!” said Olivier Mariotti, The light as air, powdery perfume has Export Director at KOTO Parfums. “Our rose at its spine, its aroma symbolic of segment is entirely based on impulse the brands stalwart principles. “Repetto purchase, so the smallest brand recogni- stands for a value, a universe that tion is always great to have, but most nobody can endorse in the same way. All of the time our products have to speak the assets and attributes of dance are for themselves, not having the renown presented here in a fragrance project or brand recognition that fashion or – everything is about this emotion, this lifestyle brands may have. Every time it’s feeling. It is not only a fragrance – it is a considerable challenge.” part of a dream,” Desaulles added. KOTO’s profile of products is not one that A product’s story plays a significant part consumers buy over and over, and so TINTED CREAM in a consumer’s product differentiation, animation and promotion of its catalogue Moisturizing as a plethora of lines “fight for space is key to igniting its customers’ curiosity. Protecting on the shelves” said Valérie Dufournie, “We have to recreate the entire world of Unifying Director of Communication at Cofinluxe, the character that inspires the fragrance, Correcting the brand behind Parfums Salvador Dali. and in doing so we try to perform on two Illuminating “The consumer today wants to be differ- axis – pleasing the end consumer, who’s ent, be individual with a fragrance that almost never there when the purchase is will not be worn by everybody. Parfums made, and seducing the purchaser of the Salvador Dali offers the customer an product who will not be the consumer,” extraordinary and authentic story that he said. “Innovation, added value, uncompromising quality are our major no other perfume brand can claim. At a *Blemish Balm time when a large majority of fragrances development criteria.” are coming from fashion, sportswear and Fragrances of the World reported that celebrities, it is very unique, even rare, to more than 1330 new fragrances were be an artist’s brand.” launched last year, 13 times the amount that were introduced two decades ago. Every Parfums Salvador Dali creation FOR ALL SKIN TYPES is entrenched in the surrealistic world In a burgeoning market, a fragrance with of the artist; the leopard print of its authenticity, it seems, will be the first to newest fragrance for women, DALI WILD, catch a customer’s attention. serving as a tribute to Dali’s universe – and his faithful pet ocelot. “Parfums 06 Ange Lapin Eau de Senteur is the first Troussellier fragrance created by KOTO Parfums, Salvador Dali has an incredibly strong which attested that the creation of a compelling artistic DNA, and the bottles, packaging and convincing universe is crucial to the success of and scents have to be coherent with this children’s products. and be immediately recognisable by 07 RANCÉ 1795 has a rich heritage – still dedicated the consumer. They are different from to Napoleon and his family, its products tell a story others and must be distinctively Dali – that is centuries old. Adding to the success of its even without reading the brand name,” Imperial Collection, which features the sought after Dufournie said. LAETITIA, RANCÉ 1795 will unveil its new creation L’AIGLE DE LA VICTOIRE at TFWA World Exhibition. Your Beauty in Good Hands ! Riviera RG 16 6 – TFWA DAILY

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One small step For the time-starved travelling consumer, convenience and simplicity is key, and the most innovative brands in cosmetics and skincare have embraced the opportunity to create restorative solutions for real women whose frenzied lifestyles demand an effortless beauty routine. Potent and portable one-step formulas that can be applied anywhere, abounding with powerful ingredients that address a multitude of concerns, are fast becoming the next step in skincare as brands recognise a growing need, and tailor their products to the traveller. Amy Hanna reports.

Just as the world won’t cease to over embrace the latest innovations in exhibiting an ever-increasing propensity 01 La Prairie’s Rasquinet: While all-in-one skincare is spin, those that spend their lives skincare, tailored specifically to them. for self-purchase, and, recognising this a growing trend, on the opposite side of the spectrum traversing it don’t plan on coming “The modern La Prairie woman balances need, pioneering Swiss skincare special- is a growing trend for concern-specific solutions such as excess pigmentation or dullness. Each to a standstill – and neither do a multi-faceted life and a very full ist La Prairie has designed an array of one of our collections proves that we are the leader their beauty routines. The neces- calendar. She’s travelling, she’s working, multi-tasking solutions, for use at home in accomplishing concern-specific solutions that sity for these regimes to become she’s at the gym, she’s entertaining – no or on the move. simultaneously offer a multitude of extra benefits. less complex though is growing, matter what, she’s always on the go. “Consumers today are global, constantly 02 According to Yves Rocher, Plants are the greatest as time-starved consumers seek Just as important, she’s discerning traveling, spanning different climates, source of energy in the living world. Their secret? A to simplify their skincare process, and self-indulgent. She knows what experimenting, and always needing a unique bioenergetic activity – photosynthesis. Yves and the sector’s most intuitive works and sees luxury as a necessity, solution for their skincare concern while Rocher researchers have studied this phenomenon, brands are rising to the challenge, relying on La Prairie to deliver consist- on the go. As a brand, we’ve adapted which has led them to develop the complex Elixir 7.9, a combination of seven plants with powerful anti-ageing delivering solutions that nestle ent results every time,” explained to this need with portable all-in-one qualities, recognised by nine patents. seamlessly into the unremitting Lynne Florio, Global Brand President, solutions,” added La Prairie Group’s lifestyle of the traveller. La Prairie (Riviera Village RE6). The President and CEO Patrick Rasquinet, 03 The key ingredient in Dead Sea OsmoterTM Concentrate is OsmoterTM, a proprietary blend of skincare sector’s focus has turned to whose favourites among the brand’s Dead Sea minerals exclusive to AHAVA Dead Sea Intelligent products that can be used restorative, rehydrating, and reenergis- ingenious age-defying products include Laboratory’s product line. The Osmoter™’s balanced instinctively in any environment and ing elixirs specifically designed to target the White Caviar Spot Treatment – a mineral content activates a natural cellular process address every skin need in a swift the concerns of tired travelling skin, foolproof exfoliating gel applicator that called the osmotic pump when applied to skin’s surface, empowering the epidermis to gently elevate one-step motion are taking the industry which can be bought on departure and treats stubborn age spots on the go; hydration and nutrition levels for a moisturised, by storm, as globetrotters the world used throughout a trip. Customers are Cellular Cleansing Water for eyes and youthful appearance.

www.tfwa.com TFWA DAILY – 9 TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION monday 21 october 2013 SUPERCHARGED face; Ultra Protection Stick SPF 40 Eye - Lip - Nose; Anti-Aging Emulsion SPF 30; 04 MINERALS and Essence of Skin Caviar Eye Complex SUPERCHARGED SKIN eye firming energiser. In the travelling skincare revolution, simplicity and speed are paramount. Long-lasting, high-performing products that meet the skin’s every elementary demand will reign supreme, while those that are suited to all types of skin – be it oily one day and dry the next – have also tapped into a fundamental need. The newly launched Action Booster Sérum by Condensé PARIS (Green Village H42) embodies the need for convenience that is leading the movement. With concen- trated natural ingredients such as lotus flower, wild pansy and blue algae extract, the new generation skin serum tackles three pivotal visage plights, reducing the signs of ageing, evening the complexion NEW and hydrating the skin. “Condensé customers are looking for rich but non greasy textures. They really want the product to be absorbed quickly into skin but comfort and hydration as well. We are working now on very special textures, immediate energy boost. combining multi sensorial aspects,” Products with instantly recognisable explained Nathalie Lamandé, CEO, effects are the answer to a nonstop way Condensé PARIS. “Condensé PARIS is of life, and restorative, deep healing above all a brand advocating quality and treatments too are growing rapidly in authenticity in its consumer approach. popularity. Quick fixes whose process Our packaging is simple and unfussy; is momentary, but whose effects are what matters to the skin is what’s in long lasting are fast becoming the Holy the formula.” Grail of skincare among frequently travelling consumers. Masks and peels One-step solutions are popular, while multi-benefit serums “Our products are adapted to the appeal to the woman who seeks a stressed rhythm of life today – made for one-stop-shop solution for her skin care ™ DEAD SEA OSMOTER ease of use – with highly efficient ingre- needs. AHAVA Dead Sea Laboratories dients that allow for rapid and instanta- is at the forefront of this trend with its CONCENTRATE neous effect,” explained Henri-Bernard anti-aging Extreme product line (Green 85% of users saw more youthful skin.* Bedoin, General Manager for Overseas, Village M62). “Masks and Peels are no 91% of users reported a more Yves Rocher (Green Village M49). Botani- longer sleepy categories,” said AHAVA’s luminous complexion.* cal skincare expert Yves Rocher recog- Vice President, Global Marketing Steph- nised its consumers’ need for efficiency, anie Davis Michelman, “– they are in high AHAVA is the defi nitive Dead Sea Minerals and capitalised upon its unique brand demand. Women want to pamper their beauty expert. Dead Sea Osmoter TM Concentrate values to develop its Elixir 7.9 range, skin and also give it highly concentrated which works in harmony with every skin active ingredients to detoxify and hydrate is a groundbreaking, skin-optimizing serum types to deliver a burst of freshness and effectively. Consumers are gravitating that supercharges skin’s cellular functions to counteract the signs of aging immediately and 04 Condensé PARIS’ over time. Powered by a triple concentration Action Booster Sérum is a TM of AHAVA’s proprietary Osmoter to boost new generation skincare that acts on three different skin’s hydration, clarity and luminosity. fields: anti ageing, even complexion and hydration. The result: a visibly more 05 Extremely concentrated in youthful complexion. natural active ingredients like lotus flower essence, * Based on user tests performed over 4 weeks by an wild pansy extract and the independent institution. Tested on 55 women. rare blue algae extract, the highly active serum helps reactivate repairing and regenerating skin VISIT AHAVA at the Green Village, Booth M62. processes.

05 Most recently 3LAB has introduced the Super Trio – Super Cream, Super Face Serum and Super Eye Treatment, all of which contain new ingredient X-50 with Intelligent Targeting Device Technology. X-50 delivers powerful peptides directly to the cells in need.

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toward all types of masks. AHAVA’s reparative properties, are an emerging With Face Matters’ distribution Purifying Mud Mask, a top seller in theme in the efficient-and-effective expanding all channels, has registered double- beauty crusade. Natural wonders with rapidly in the UK digit growth, while many consumers, unprecedented restorative qualities are domestic market, the unique anti- especially those who travel a lot, are combined to form multi-tasking miracle ageing skincare using AHAVA’s Hydration Cream Mask cures that recreate fauna and flora’s range has been as a night treatment to seal in extra abilities to rehabilitate themselves. La expanded and moisture.” Prairie’s newest references – Cellular given a new modern look. Spencer Kanis, President of scientific Swiss Ice Crystal Cream and Cellular With slick, skincare manufacturer 3LAB (Green Swiss Ice Crystal Dry Oil – encapsulate sophisticated Village L63), concurred that quick but all that La Prairie stands for: innovative white packaging, powerful remedies are growing increas- science, high-performance products, along with the introduction of ingly popular. He said: “Customers are luxury and ‘Swissness’. “They feature a two new lines more skeptical than ever, and want patent-pending complex derived from and a travel products that will not only work, but that a trio of Swiss extremophile plants and retail exclusive work in a short amount of time.” The algae,” Rasquinet described. “These offer, the range designed with the universal success of 3LAB’s recently plants have developed survivalist skills to woman who takes introduced Super Trio line, featuring manage whatever Mother Nature throws pride in caring for Super Cream, Super Face Serum and at them, and it was these skills – these her skin in mind. Super Eye Treatment is evidence of this – survivalist secrets, if you will – that we infused with its newly derived ingredient aimed to capture and embody within our X-50 with Intelligent Targeting Device Swiss Ice Crystal Complex. After all, we Technology, the product’s encapsulated live in a world of extremes, and those ingredients to be transported directly to extremes – including climate, pollution, the cells where they are needed, with a travel, personal health & wellbeing – 92% efficiency rate in increasing elastin age us and our skin. Swiss Ice Crystal and collagen production. “Innovation and Complex helps skin acclimate and the high grade ingredients are at the core defend itself, helping to slow down the of 3LAB. Our products combine the latest aging process. We foresee our customers in innovation and high tech ingredients to – especially those in Travel Retail, who create efficacious products,” he added. constantly subject themselves to both Beauty in science environmental and situational stressors The use of rare and sought-after ingredi- –responding extremely well to both.” ents, distinguished by their extraordinary AHAVA meanwhile is introducing its TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION monday 21 october 2013

Alongside its base range of professional make up products, NoUBA is presenting its new collection of natural make up products Green Philosophy, created from a selection of the best botanical components.

latest skin care innovation, Dead Sea important,” attested Sally Curson, OsmoterTM Concentrate, a skin optimis- founder of Face Matters, whose innova- ing serum that harnesses the power tive skincare line is being showcased of Dead Sea minerals to recharge, by World of Patria International (Blue rehydrate and illuminate the skin for a Village G13). “Women want to see visible younger-looking, luminous complex- improvements in their skin and are ion. “As a multi-benefit serum that is prepared to invest wisely into a results- anchoring AHAVA’s skin care portfolio, driven brand.” Face Matters products Dead Sea OsmoterTM Concentrate are a pure blend super active botanical will appeal to many different types oils and high levels of organic silicon, of consumers – from the business which helps to stimulate the production traveller to the tourism consumer,” of collagen and elastin. Derived from one Davis Michelman commented. of the earth’s most abundant minerals, organic silicon is claimed to be ‘a miracle “Women are now, more than ever, aware mineral’. It works on many different Elixir 7.9 of ingredients and the quality of the levels, playing an important role in products they are using; better to use connective tissue formation, particularly Youth Energy Innovation a tiny amount of something beautiful within the skin. and effective than lashings of cheap ineffective synthetics, the science behind Natural selection the product is becoming increasingly Constituents from nature are also coming forth as an integral component 12 years of research in cosmetics collections, as in visible in the new Green Philosophy line of A combination of 7 plants Curson: additive-free make up products by 9 anti-Aging Patents “Women want NoUBA (Green Village K60), which embraces the concepts of ‘eco’ and ‘bio’ to see visible alongside its traditional professional improvements in make up heritage. “It is a collection created from a selection of the best their skin and botanical components,” explained Export are prepared Manager Anna Fendrich. “Functional products and active ingredients that to invest wisely come exclusively from companies VISIT US AT CANNES : into a results- that promote the concept of fair trade, GREEN VILLAGE M49 ensuring eco-friendly raw materials and driven brand.” processes. Green Philosophy is a true prodigy of nature, studied for the woman yves-rocher.com

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who wants a delicate make-up for her unique chance to invent, and the prolif- face, her soul and the planet.” eration of market exclusives – such Nougat London, meanwhile, has also as 3LAB’s The Traveler set, containing responded to the trend in natural ingre- the brand’s most popular products dients by launching an entire new line, all in TSA approved sizes and a vinyl Nougat Naturals (Yellow Village D36). The carrying case, La Prairie’s Skin Caviar range is a collection of everyday essen- Duo selections and AHAVA’s solution tials blended from nature’s finest ingre- orientated skin and body care sets – dients, featuring two essential oil blends are evidence that they are embracing to uplift and revive or calm and relax. the opportunity. Philippa Thomas, Brand Development Manager, said: “We have noticed a huge “We absolutely feel there is opportunity trend towards ‘natural’ product ranges, among the ‘global consumer’, said La be it an increase in natural ingredients, Prairie’s Rasquinet. “After all, despite solely using natural ingredients, or a step economic volatility, global tourism away from negative press ingredients has proven resilient in the face of an such as Parabens. We believe this is a economic slowdown. In fact, the UN direct result of the consumer being more World Tourism Organisation reported and more educated about the benefits of that international tourist arrivals products and ingredients and expecting crossed the one billion mark for the products to perform. We are also seeing first time in 2012, with similar growth consumers looking for new, innovative predicted for this year. In addition, the ideas that deliver the benefits of natural increasing affluence and emergences ingredients but take inspiration from of consumer classes in developing trends from other industries. We have countries is a durable trend lending been influenced by the global trend of the itself to flourishing capitalism world- Taiwanese Bubble Tea drink and launched wide. Simply put, travel retail is the a fresh, young collection called Bubble T present – and future – of beauty. The Bath and Body which plays on the drink words themselves speak to the global trend by utilising extracts of tea and super consumer, and this is our consumer. fruits within the product formulation.” They’re keen on commodities, and they want to access products ‘anywhere, The travel retail consumer provides anytime’, and we’re here to fulfill that Nougat London has responded to the trend in natural ingredients by launching an entire new line, Nougat Naturals. cosmetics and skincare brands with a need,” he concluded. The range is a collection of everyday essentials blended from nature’s finest ingredients, featuring two essential oil blends to uplift and revive or calm and relax.

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