The 2015 Beauty Top 100 Ranking the World’S Leading Players
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
NO REGRETS LIFE AFTER KIEHL’S • BACKSTAGE INTEL SEPHORA’S TAKE ON KEY TRENDS The Business of Beauty THE 2015 BEAUTY TOP 100 RANKING THE WORLD’S LEADING PLAYERS AN ISSUE OF TRUE MATCH LUMI CUSHION Karlie Kloss’ TrueMatch is N2 Light Ivory TRY ON ENDLESS LOOKS INSTANTLY. DOWNLOAD THE MAKEUP GENIUS APP. ©2016 L’Oréal USA, Inc. NEW LIQUID INFUSED CUSHION EASY TAP-TAP APPLICATION FOR BUILDABLE COVERAGE lumicushion.com LIQUID FOUNDATION REVOLUTIONIZED. BUILD LUMINOUS COVERAGE IN A TAP. BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™ AVAILABLE IN 12 SHADES OF PERFECTION DEPARTMENTS 8 16 22 Pete Master Class: Nailing It Unplugged Jami Morse A new nontoxic Beauty brands are Heidegger nail salon opens operating under More than 25 in Manhattan’s a new moniker— years after selling Financial District. premiumization, her family busi- says Pete Born, ness, Kiehl’s Since 23 WWD’s executive 1851 to L’Oréal, Chantecaille’s editor of beauty. Jami Morse Eastern Heidegger is back Expansion 10 with a second The luxury beauty Girl of the act: skin-care line brand sets its Moment Retrouvé. sights towards the Alexandra Shipp Asian consumer is storming into 19 with a new store in summer block- La Vie Hong Kong. buster season En Rose with a role in X- Spring’s fragrance 24 Men: Apocalypse. launches are floral Eye beauties. Candy 12 Sephora’s top Ground 20 buyers break Control Shopper down the hottest IN THIS ISSUE The next genera- Stalker beauty trends tion of antiox- A trek to Wil- from the fall run- FEATURES idants is found in lowbrook Mall way shows. these antipollution in Wayne, N.J., products. reveals that sub- 29 The 2015 Beauty Top 100 urbanites aren’t 14 skimping WWD Beauty Inc’s annual ranking of the world’s biggest beauty companies, with in-depth First on makeup. quantitative and qualitative analysis of the competitive landscape, including: Responders The latest launches protect 38 The Digital Pacesetters: L2 analyzes e-commerce efectiveness, digital marketing activi- skin and hair from ties, social media eforts, mobile and more to mark beauty’s most digitally-savvy companies. the environmental aggressors. 40 By the Numbers: The Players: Who’s Who on the Top 100. 44 Operating Income for the Top 100 Publicly Traded Beauty Companies: Analyzing operating income data to see who ran 2015’s most financially successful businesses. 47 The Top 10 Performing Beauty Stocks in 2015: In 2015, Asia ruled the roost. 44 53 Beauty Company Spending on Research and Development: Was One The companies on the Top 100 list that are spending the most on innovation. Direction 55 Board Composition in 2015: Avon Products tops the female leadership chart. enough to reverse the 56 Pay Scale: What ceo’s of beauty’s top public companies took home at the end of last year. downward spiral of 58 10 Beauty Companies: Those with the most and least shareholder equity. celebrity scents? Find out in the 2015 For a look at market capitalization of leading public companies, go to WWD.com. timeline. COVER ILLUSTRATION BY MATT CHASE HAHN CHRISTINE BY PHOTOGRAPH WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 19. Friday, April 29, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing ofces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POST- MASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail cus- tomer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Ofce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/ or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave, 2nd Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com or to subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLIC- ITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSID- ERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 4 WWD BEAUTY INC EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR ALLISON COLLINS BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR THE YEAR IN FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ELLEN THOMAS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT MAUREEN MORRISON-SHULAS COPY CHIEF DANIELLE GILLIARD, DAVID PODGURSKI, MAXINE WALLY COPY EDITORS CONTRIBUTORS NUMBERS NICOLE DUDKA , MALLORY ROYNON (ART), SAMANTHA CONTI (LONDON), MILES SOCHA (PARIS), LUCIE JANIK (MILAN), MARCY MEDINA (LOS ANGELES), elcome to the 2015 version of the MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (BERLIN), AMANDA KAISER (HONG KONG) PHOTO WWD Beauty Inc Top 100. The list, ASH BARHAMAND PHOTO DIRECTOR JENNA GREENE SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR our annual ranking of the world’s OONA WALLY BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR KATRINA BROWN PHOTO EDITOR biggest beauty companies, has become EMILY TAYLOR PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR JILLIAN SOLLAZZO ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR a staple of the industry. Led by Alex GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS Wynn in Europe and Laura Klepacki BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER in the U.S., our reporters around the PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER world scour the industry’s competitive landscape to provide JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR MARJORIE THOMAS EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE an in-depth qualitative and quantitative analysis of the year in OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY W EMANUELA ALTIMANI SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY beauty. They’ve also spent countless hours combing through PASCALE RAJAC ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE TRISH ROBBINS SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER the available financial data for the publicly traded companies RACHAEL DESANTIS, TINA SCHISSEL CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES on the Top 100—50 in all—to compare and contrast everything SHANNON NOBLES MARKETING DIRECTOR from operating profit to research and development spending CASS SPENCER CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING CASSIE LEVENTHAL DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST to shareholder equity. SUZETTE MINETTI DIGITAL SALES PLANNER AUDIENCE MARKETING This year it seemed like there was even more activity than ELLEN FAIRBANKS DEALY VICE PRESIDENT PEGGY PYLE CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR usual to report on. Call 2015 the year of the deal—the largest, JANET MENAKER SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT of course, Coty Inc.’s pending RANDI SEGAL SENIOR DIRECTOR, INSTITUTIONAL SALES The impact of social media can’t be SUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER acquisition of 41 brands TAMRA FEBESH SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER underestimated either, particularly its role in LAUREN BUSCH ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER from Procter & Gamble Co., driving sales of color cosmetics. For example, PRODUCTION KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR including most of its prestige companies like L’Oréal (number one) and the JOHN CROSS PRODUCTION MANAGER portfolio, its professional hair- Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. (number four), posted PREPRESS PRODUCTION impressive gains thanks to their strength in the ALEX SHARFMAN DIGITAL IMAGING DAVID LEE CHIN ASSEMBLY care and color brands and its category. Factor in the economic slowdown in SUMMITS & EVENTS makeup holdings. But Coty countries that have been key drivers for many AMBER MUNDINGER VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM beauty companies, such as Brazil, Russia and MARY ANN BACHER EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR wasn’t alone. Unilever snapped KIM MANCUSO DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES up a number of prestige skin- China, plus the adverse impact of currency ALEXIS COYLE SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR fluctuations, and the result is a list—and an AMELIA EWERT DIRECTOR OF EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING care brands; Avon spun of FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC industry—in flux. MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS its U.S. business through a One person who knows change well is Jami & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT RON WILSON DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS deal with the private equity Morse Heidegger, this issue’s Master Class firm Cerberus and Walgreens subject and a woman who helped create the juggernaut known as Kiehl’s before selling it Boots Alliance snapped up to L’Oréal. After the native New Yorker moved WWD AND FAIRCHILD MEDIA ARE OWNED AND both beauty brands and retail to California she published an equestrian PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION behemoths in its quest for magazine, got involved with philanthropic JAY PENSKE CHAIRMAN & CEO work and settled into motherhood.