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Promising? Perhaps. But if you ask many chemists and prod- to the safety of cosmetic products,” says Janet Nudelman, direc- uct creators about these developments, you may not hear a sigh tor of the Campaign for Safe , which is sponsoring the The Dirty Truth of relief. “I roll my eyes every time someone wants to create a two bills in California. new brand and the first thing out of their mouth is ‘clean,’ ” says Think about formaldehyde, flagged as a possible human developer Tamar Lara Kamen, who has worked with companies carcinogen by the National Toxicology Program in 1981; it’s still With escalating concerns about the chemicals in such as Estée Lauder and Peter Thomas Roth. “I truly do not be- allowed in hair-straightening treatments. Or triclosan, found to everyday beauty products, a battle is raging online and, lieve that topical skin care can be dangerous systemically.” When potentially cause tumors, which was a commonplace antibac- now, in DC. Martha McCully investigates. asked about research linking ingredients like parabens and terial ingredient until it was banned from liquid soap in 2016 phthalates to hormone disruption and even cancer, Kamen says (though it may still be in your toothpaste). That’s not to say that the test doses are at levels “disproportionate to what you would all synthetics are bad and all natural ingredients are entirely put on your face.” In other words, it’s the dose that makes the safe—some essential oils can burn the skin, and asbestos is a nat- poison. After all, even water can kill you if you drink too much. urally occurring mineral fiber. Last fall, JAMA published a letter The stark difference of opinion is most acute online, of course, entitled “Natural Does Not Mean Safe: The Dirt on Clean Beauty and laced with plenty of vitriol. Scroll through the comments Products,” which warned against misleading greenwashing tac- sections of Insta-famous beauty chemists like LabMuffin- tics in marketing. Plus, sometimes the ousting of one ingredient BeautyScience of Australia or anonymous beauty vigilante can usher in another that may be just as harmful, if not more so. Estée Laundry, and you’ll find fiery disagreements about what’s But consumer demand alone can also push out ingredients if they bad for your body, what’s bad for the environment, and what’s are perceived as dangerous. Houston-based product developer blatant fearmongering. Grab some popcorn and prepare to Goo- Mark Broussard says, “Once something [takes] hold in the minds gle a few ingredients—or 100. of consumers, what’s the point? If consumers see parabens in What may finally bring down the gavel on some of these your product, they won’t buy it.” disputes is the Cosmetic Safety Enhancement Act of 2019, intro- Parabens, one of the most oft-cited and oft-defended ingre- duced in the U.S. House of Representatives last December—only dients of concern, may be the poster child for the clean beauty the second time in 40 years there’s been a hearing about cosmetics conflict. Commonly used in cosmetics and other products as reform on the federal level—and two new bills in California. The preservatives, parabens have been shown to mimic estrogen, key proposals in the act require cosmetic companies to register qualifying them as endocrine disrupters—but research has also formulas with the FDA and mandate better ingredient transpar- shown that parabens’ ability to bind to human estrogen receptors ency. California’s bills have similar demands: One would require is weak. And while oncology professor Philippa Darbre, PhD, the disclosure of fragrance and flavor chemicals deemed toxic to says in Toxic Beauty that “I’m actually quite upset about how human health and the environment but allow nontoxic chemicals much [paraben] I’ve measured in human breast tissue,” there is to remain confidential. The second bill would outlaw 13 of the still no evidence that its presence actually triggers cancer. “Para- most hazardous chemicals still permissible in the States, including bens are naturally occurring in fruits and vegetables, so custom- formaldehyde, lead, mercury, asbestos, and two phthalates and ers are being exposed to them anyway,” says New Jersey–based two parabens already banned by the European Union. cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson. “There is a class of parabens More than 1,300 ingredients are currently off-limits in the that have been banned in the EU, not because they were deemed EU. In comparison, the United States has only prohibited 11. unsafe but because there wasn’t enough data.” While some big beauty companies formulate products for their Nevertheless, many dermatologists remain skeptical. “I take international markets simultaneously (making them de facto ingredients in products incredibly seriously, and so do my pa- compliant with the strictest laws), the last time the U.S. updat- tients,” says Whitney Bowe, MD, who practices in New York City. ed its list was in 1938, decades before retinol or long-wearing “In the case of parabens, I don’t believe in innocent until proven waterproof carbon black mascara was even invented. guilty.” Macrene Alexiades, MD, PhD, who published a paper on Surprisingly, the FDA does not regulate the beauty industry the toxicity of parabens in The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology as a matter of course (nor does any other federal agency), and in 2008, agrees: “When people are applying five products a day, the terms green, botanical, pure, safe, nontoxic, vegan, and, yes, they’re exceeding the maximum allowable amount by tenfold.” clean are not regulated by any governing body (the term organic Most American women use 12 cosmetic products a day (or 33, is regulated by the USDA, not the FDA). It’s up to a company like yours truly). They add up. to test whether its products are safe. Does that happen? Four “It’s well documented in medical toxicology journals that en- sources I spoke with used the phrase “the Wild West” to describe docrine disrupters act additively,” says Ruthann Rudel, director n January, the Food and Drug Administration Retailers like Follain, The Detox Market, and Credo, which bans the beauty industry. “No one is minding the store when it comes of research at the Silent Spring Institute CONTINUED ON PAGE 172

published a study revealing that certain chemical more than 2,700 ingredients from the products on its shelves, OF THE BRANDS. COURTESY REMAINING IMAGES: & CONTACT; SAROFF/PRINT SUZANNE BY sunscreens can be absorbed through the skin and warn against ingredients with links to health issues. Parabens, I into our bloodstreams. While it corroborated a pi- phthalates, 1,4-dioxane, aluminum compounds, PEGs, chemical lot study the FDA executed less than a year earlier, sunscreens, and synthetic fragrance are just a few currently un- this new research showed that these sunscreens der scrutiny. Words like fragrance, parfum, and flavor also raise can be absorbed into the blood at levels that exceed the FDA eyebrows because they often serve as a catchall for hundreds of Coming Clean threshold presumed to be safe. Both the agency and other experts undisclosed chemicals (since scent is considered a trade secret). have underscored that there is no current evidence that these In recent years, demand for “nontoxic” beauty products has Beauty brands are tweaking formulas, ingredients actually do harm—but that didn’t stop the reincarna- become so strong that retailers like , Saks Fifth Avenue, eliminating tion of an old debate: Are our beauty products slowly killing us? and Target have established their own clean beauty seals and/ ingredients, THIS FINE, LEAVE-IN THIS PLANT-BASED, STUDIES HAVE YET FINELY MILLED VOLCANIC MIST DETANGLES, VEGAN NAIL POLISH TO LINK ALUMINUM IN MINERALS, SANS TALC, If you watch this year’s buzzy documentary Toxic Beauty, or designated shopping sections. Meanwhile, the Environmental and discovering SMOOTHS, AND ADDS IS “16-FREE” (NO ANTIPERSPIRANT TO BLUR IMPERFECTIONS SHINE WITH PLANT- FORMALDEHYDE, HEALTH RISKS, BUT AND CONTROL released in January and featuring interviews with doctors who Working Group’s ingredient database, Skin Deep—once con- innovative natural BASED OILS INSTEAD TOLUENE, PHTHALATES, MANY STILL AVOID IT. SHINE. BITE BEAUTY specialize in environmental health, oncologists, and cancer sidered the bête noire of mainstream beauty brands—is now a OF SILICONE. DRUNK PARABENS, ETC.). SALLY DOVE 0% ALUMINUM CHANGEMAKER FLEXIBLE alternatives. ELEPHANT WILD MARULA HANSEN GOOD. KIND. DEODORANT LAVENDER COVERAGE PRESSED patients suing beauty companies, you might very well think so. resource for major names like Procter & Gamble. SERIES PERSPECTIVE THE SUMMER FROM ARTWORK: By Taylor Davis TANGLE SPRAY ($25). PURE. NAIL POLISH ($9). & VANILLA ($6). POWDER ($36).

104 Shopping Guide

THE STATE OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION SOPHIE TURNER IS NOT A D%#K CONTINUED FROM PAGE 61 CONTINUED FROM PAGE 154 from T-shirts emblazoned with her likeness (possibly the pre- chain’s greenhouse gas emissions by 40 percent by 2025—and “In Survive, my character has been in rehab for [almost] an crispy bacon. And wait for her answer. cise impact she opposes) to a full collection by Sweden-based by 90 percent in its owned-and-operated facilities. Now con- entire year,” Turner adds. “And I actually suffer from depres- “I started watching when the last season started,” she says, designers Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück, founders of the sumers need to step up. How many pairs of jeans does someone sion. I also suffer from anxiety and eating disorders. It felt like “and I was planning to watch the rest. But then I fell behind. And label Rave Review. Their spring 2020 collection was made with need—and how often should they be washed? I knew so much of that world.” then I started reading all these comments online.…” only preexisting materials, including upcycled vintage blankets, Perhaps, as with so many eco-friendly shifts—like ditching “Has doing the series helped you with your own issues?” I ask. I ease her off the hook: “And you didn’t want to ruin it?” bedsheets, and tablecloths. plastic for glass bottles—change will come not from looking to She shrugs her shoulders, eats another blueberry. “I feel like you are never going to have everybody be satis- As parts of the world grapple with water shortages, anyone the future, but to the past. Living sustainably came naturally to “I suppose, yeah, at the time, it’s very therapeutic, because fied with the ending. Especially a show that’s been going on for with a heap of denim in their closet might note the terrifying our grandparents and great-grandparents, who spot-cleaned, I’m not thinking about myself. But then afterwards, um, not almost 10 years at that point. People have so many ideas of how UN statistic that it takes 10,000 liters of water to grow a kilo of mended their , and maintained minuscule wardrobes by so much.” She pops the tart blue orb into her mouth. “What they want it to end. You can’t make every fan happy.” cotton—the equivalent of one pair of jeans. Levi Strauss & Co. modern standards. The answer may well have been right there happens is...I’ve been so obsessed with portraying this other I pose one last question. has updated its climate action plan to reduce its global supply all along—in our closets. ▪ character’s problems that I haven’t actually worked on me.” “How does it feel to have been part of one of the greatest shows of all time?” Our time together is quickly coming to an end. Turner has been “Pretty much since season three, we’ve been hearing, a model subject, answering questions candidly and in detail ‘! It’s a phenomenon!’ I’ve been trying to, THE DIRTY TRUTH that perhaps nobody has bothered asking her before, revealing like, comprehend that. But when you’re in it, you can’t see CONTINUED FROM PAGE 105 herself to be an earnest and diverting interview partner. Across it. Now that I’m out of it, I’m only starting to realize how the lobby, I see Turner’s publicist taking a seat on the couch. incredible it was, what a revelation it was for television. I’m in Massachusetts, where researchers identify preventable Gregg Renfrew, the founder and CEO of clean beauty brand She gives me a little no-nonsense nod that seems somehow like, ‘Oh my God, I’ve been, like, blessed.’ When it’s happen- causes of breast cancer. “The Endocrine Society has written Beautycounter, who testified in December at a hearing on distinctly English. I have time for one more. ing, you don’t realize you’re among greatness: The people I strong statements about reducing these chemicals, both for the the Cosmetic Safety Enhancement Act. “All members of I ask her about the ending of Game of Thrones. was around. The atmosphere. The way they worked. I was general population and for those who are vulnerable, such as the beauty community should be committed to a future “I haven’t watched it,” she says. spoiled by that show completely. And I’ll never have anything a fetus, women being treated for breast cancer, children, and that is clean.” “That’s a safe answer,” I say archly, knowing she’s happy like it again. Nothing will be the same. And only now am I those with genetic susceptibility.” To that end, third-party organizations like Ecocert and operating a little bit south of the PC border. I eat the last bit of realizing that.” ▪ While more research and legislation can lead to safer Made Safe, and apps like SmartLabel and Think Dirty—as products, bucks may come before bills. Hence, beauty’s well as the Google Chrome extension Clearya—are working to buzziest marketing term: transparency. “I think there needs increase transparency by helping consumers decode the often- to be an industry-wide shift from building beauty on secrets complicated ingredients in product labels. We’ll see what the COVERS SHOPS Necklace by Bottega Veneta, .com. Shirt by Monse, similar , loropiana.com. ON SOPHIE TURNER: PAGE 88: Jacket by Supriya bottegaveneta.com. PAGE styles at monse.com. Skirt by Top by A.W.A.K.E. Mode, to building beauty on clear, open communication,” says commenters have to say about that. ▪ Dress by , Lele, supriyalele.com. Dress 140: Top, pants by Giorgio Nanushka, nanushka.com. awake-mode.com. Earrings select Louis Vuitton by Marina Moscone, $2,850, Armani, armani.com. Hat by The Row, therow by Misho, mishodesigns.com. boutiques nationwide. marinamoscone.com. by Prada, prada.com. PAGE .com. Mules by Bottega Veneta, PAGE 166: Coat by Fabiana 141: Top, skirt by Chanel, bottegaveneta.com. PAGE 159: Filippi, fabianafilippi.com. ON JANE FONDA: FIRE STARTER 800-550-0005. PAGE 142: Shirt by Maje, maje.com. Shirt Bodysuit by Mugler, mugler Jacket, $3,590, trousers, PAGE 129: Jacket, trousers Dress by , 800-929-DIOR. by Vera Wang Collection, .fr. Skirt by 2 Moncler 1952, M A R T H E: A REFERENDUM $990, by Alexander McQueen, by Alexander McQueen, PAGE 143: Jacket, pantashoes, farfetch.com. Trousers, moncler.com. Leggings by Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen (NYC). sunglasses by Balenciaga, Charlotte Knowles, hlorenzo CONTINUED FROM PAGE 121 belt bag by Off-White c/o (NYC). Bodysuit by Falke, Bodysuit by Falke, $180, falke Balenciaga (Beverly Hills), Virgil Abloh, Em Pty Gallery .com. Handbag by by $180, falke.com. Earrings, .com. Earrings, rings by Tiffany balenciaga.com. PAGE 144: (NYC). Sunglasses by , Hedi Slimane, celine.com. Perhaps it is significant that Earth Day 2169 seems to three-dimensional space, let alone in three-dimensional real $3,400, rings, from $900, by & Co., tiffany.com. Pumps Dress by Celine by Hedi loewe.com. Earrings by Bar Sandals by Boss, hugoboss have had no “dawn.” Instead, the sky has been overcast by time, you are likely to feel disoriented. Most of you have never Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com. by Christian Louboutin, Slimane, celine.com. PAGE , barjewellery.com. .com. PAGE 167: Shirts by Etro, christianlouboutin.com. 145: Coat, gown by Rick Bracelet by Atelier Swarovski etro.com. Vest by 2 Moncler an eerie, green-tinged dust cloud arising from the Southern gathered together in any public setting like the Great Hall; EDITOR’S LETTER Owens, Rick Owens (NYC). 1952, moncler.com. PAGE 168: PAGE 34: Dress by GREEN GODDESS Fine Jewelry by Paige Novick, Hemisphere, occluding visibility from the observatory level even fewer have gathered together in real time. PAGE 131: Dress by Loewe, PAGE 146: Jacket, skirt by atelierswarovski.com. PAGE Top by Marciano, marciano Christopher Kane, similar Prada, select Prada boutiques .com. Sweater by Guess, guess of Climate Control Tower I; meteorologists believe the dust The reason for a “paper ballot” is to prevent computer styles at christopherkane.com. Loewe (NYC). Earrings by 160: Shirt, skirt by Max Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com. nationwide. Sandals by Mara, handbag by Max Mara .com. Skirt, platforms by Sacai, Tights by Falke, falke.com. Valentino Garavani, Valentino sacai.jp. Pants by Gabriela cloud to be hyper-radioactive, and it may be of a potency that hacking and to assure an accurate count. The reason for real Boots by The Way We Wore, Boots, The Way We Wore, by Renzo Piano Building L.A., thewaywewore.com. boutiques nationwide. Workshop, maxmara.com. Hearst, Gabriela Hearst can infiltrate Climate Control barriers. Also, there have been time is that the referendum must be completed within an L.A., thewaywewore.com. PAGES 148–149: Gown by (NYC). Earrings by Bjørg, Vintage Norma Kamali dress PAGE 161: Coat, top, pants reports of slime mold quivering with “life” in toxic tundra hour so that the results of the vote can be set into motion CONSCIOUS EATER Valentino, $22,000, Valentino by Boss, hugoboss.com. bjorgjewellery.com. PAGE by Shop Morphew, 1stdibs PAGE 133: Jumpsuit by boutiques nationwide. 169: Jacket, ear cuffs by Y/ wastelands that have been lifeless for centuries. A malevolent by midnight. .com. Jumpsuit by Bottega Earrings by Bea Bongiasca, Everybody.World, exclusively musexmuse.com. Gloves Project, Nordstrom stores new organism resembling gigantic paramecia is reported As voters, you are required to check one box. Yes or No to Veneta, bottegaveneta.com. at everybody.world. SOPHIE TURNER nationwide. Tank by Off-White Blouse by Versace, versace IS NOT A D%#K by Wing & Weft Gloves, flourishing where “grasses” and “trees” once grew plentifully the proposal: No further “extraordinary measures” should be wegloveyou.com. PAGE 162: c/o Virgil Abloh, off---white .com. Boots by Balenciaga, SIREN SINGER PAGES 150–155: All clothing .com. Skirt by AG, agjeans.com. in the Great Void Plains, said to be equipped with a “rudimen- employed to keep m a r t h e alive. Balenciaga (NYC). All jewelry PAGE 135: Dress by , and accessories by Louis Trench coat by Herno, Herno (NYC). Top, pants by Kwaidan tary consciousness.” Suffocating winds, blood-red acid rain, That is, Yes means no, m a r t h e—the “last living spec- by Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com. givenchy.com. Rings by Vuitton, louisvuitton.com. TRAVEL Tiffany & Co., 800-843-3269. Editions, similar styles at PAGE 171: Ring by lethal solar rays that can shrivel unprotected organic skin imen of her doomed, moribund, accursed species”—should TABLE OF WHERE THE net-a-porter.com. PAGE Tamara Comolli, from and scald corneas blind within seconds; a near-continuous not continue to live, while No means yes, m a r t h e and CONTENTS SHIFTING SANDS SIDEWALK ENDS 163: Bodysuit by Moschino $12,200, Tamara Comolli PAGE 39: Jacket, trousers, PAGES 136–137: Dress by PAGE 157: Trench coat by Couture, moschino.com. (Southampton, NY). quaking of coastal lands along new seismic fault lines; smol- her “doomed, moribund, accursed species” should contin- sandals by JW Anderson, Etro, similar styles at Etro Coach 1941, coach.com. Dress PAGE 164: Vest by Piazza dering mudslides, radioactive firestorms, steaming sinkholes, ue to live. jwanderson.com. boutiques nationwide. Hoop by Sacai, sacai.jp. Earring by Sempione, piazzasempione HOROSCOPE earrings (throughout) by Charlotte Chesnais, Dover .com. Top by St. John, PAGE 174: Ring by Dior Fine bubbling swamplands where no living creatures had been It is true, AICitizens are contractually obliged to protect ACCESSORIES Jennifer Fisher, jenniferfisher Street Market New York. stjohnknits.com. Pants by Jewelry, available by special detected for centuries until the sudden emergence of a spe- their CreatorSpecies from extinction; but it is also true, con- PAGE 76: Bracelet by .com. Sandals by JW Anderson, Cross-body bag by Sies Mugler, mugler.fr. Earrings order, 800-929-DIOR. Carolina Bucci, $15,600, jwanderson.com. PAGE Marjan, collection available by Lagos, lagos.com. Belt bag cies of new, hardy beetle as large as a Norway rat—all signify tracts can be broken, precedents can be overturned, and new carolinabucci.com. PAGE 138: Top, skirt by Proenza at siesmarjan.com. Platforms by Mark Cross, markcross Prices are approximate. a new, heightened danger to our civilization. generations are not invariably bound to honor the obligations 78: Earrings by Daniela Schouler, similar styles at by The Row, therow.com. .com. Pumps by Proenza ELLE recommends that Villegas x Muzo Emeralds, proenzaschouler.com. PAGE PAGE 158: Blazer by Brunello Schouler, proenzaschouler merchandise availability Which is why today’s referendum vote is “historic”: a vote of older generations. $50,000, danielavillegas.com. 139: Gown by Gucci, gucci.com. Cucinelli, brunellocucinelli .com. PAGE 165: Cardigan by be checked with local stores. to defund m a r t h e will be a vote to pump badly needed The latest polls report sharply divided opinion on the funds into the sidelined Space Colonizing Project—our only referendum: 46 percent of AICitizens favor halting “extreme hope to escape the doomed Earth, destroyed by the ravages measures” to keep m a r t h e alive; 42 percent favor keeping ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXV, Number 8) (April 2020) is published monthly by Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 USA. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William of the accursed species Homo sapiens. m a r t h e alive with “extreme measures”; a swing vote of 12 R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. 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