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www.bwconfidential.com The inside view on the international beauty industry December 4-17, 2014 #102 CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL Comment Inside The buzz 2 Criss-cross beauty News roundup ust as more beauty brands are opening standalone Netwatch 6 Jstores, retailers are taking more interest in widening their own-brand offer. And this is not only in the form Beauty blogger review of traditional private-label products. Through its private- label product development division Kendo, LVMH-owned Interview 7 Sephora has developed a string of brands that are not L’Occitane md travel retail under the retailer’s own name, such as Formula X nail worldwide Marcin Jasiak polish and Kat Von D (meaning the customer doesn’t know she is getting a store brand). Kendo also just Insight 9 announced that it would acquire Canada-based make-up Canada’s prestige market brand Bite Beauty. (LVMH also noted Kendo has been spun off from Sephora and that it is now a separate entity at the group.) Another example is UK-based Show review 13 retailer Alliance Boots, which has just acquired British skincare brand Soap & LuxePack Monaco Glory. Boots had taken a minority share in the brand in 2011. All this is, of course, in a bid to ensure a more exclusive offer and drive Store visit 15 consumers into the store, as well as achieve better margins. However, suppliers The Body Shop, Brazil that have already complained about retailers like Sephora for what they see as prioritizing LVMH brands and Sephora own brands over others, are unlikely to be happy if more stores look to fill up their shelves with their own products. Oonagh Phillips Editor in Chief [email protected] Subscribe on p.17 or go to www.bwconfidential.com News roundup At a glance... n L’Oréal and Nestlé to close Innéov business n Alliance Boots buys Soap & Glory The buzz n P&G considering sale of Wella n Avon reorganizes Latin America management team Stay informed with our daily news headlines on www.bwconfidential.com Strategy L’Oréal has announced that it is terminating its cosmetic supplement brand Innéov, a joint venture it operates with Nestlé. “The brand has not met the development [goals] expected by both partners,” the companies said in a statement. Innéov is part of L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics division. The brand launched in 2002 and is distributed in the pharmacy channel in around 13 countries in Europe as well as in Brazil and Mexico. Innéov reported sales of €52m in 2013. The joint venture will shut down in the first quarter of 2015. L’Oréal and Nestlé say they will keep the research benefits from Innéov and its intellectual property for future applications. The two groups state that they are reviewing employment opportunities for Innéov employees. UK-based Alliance Boots has acquired British brand Soap & Glory, founded by beauty executive Marcia Kilgore in 2006. The brand has been sold in Boots since its launch, and Alliance Boots became a minority shareholder in the company in 2011. Soap & Glory’s offer includes skincare, bath and body products and make-up. It will operate as a standalone brand within Alliance Boots’ Global Brands division, which is managed by Ken Murphy, executive vice president of Walgreens Boots Alliance and president of Global Brands. Soap & Glory is currently sold in the US and Canada, Europe, Asia and the Middle East. P&G is said to be looking to sell off its Wella brand, according to news agency Reuters. The consumer-goods group acquired the haircare brand in 2003. Industry sources say Wella is estimated to be worth around $7bn. In August, P&G announced that it would shed 90 to 100 brands over the next two years in order to focus on its most strategic product lines. In October, it sold off its Duracell battery business, which it had acquired in 2005 as part of the acquisition of Gillette, to holding company Berkshire Hathaway. The Shiseido brand is looking to sharpen its profile, widen its customer base and become a true three-axe player in Europe. The first step in this strategy was the launch of Ultimune skincare in September, which was based on stimulating the skin’s immune system. The company said the launch has succeeded in recruiting new consumers to the brand, which was a key objective. Shiseido plans to continue to invest strongly behind Ultimune with €10m earmarked for media spend for the product in Europe in n n n www.bwconfidential.com - December 4-17, 2014 #102 - Page 2 CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL n n n News roundup n n n 2015. The brand will also add an eye product to the Ultimune line-up in the second half of next year. In terms of its three-axe strategy, the group is looking to build its position in fragrance, with a major new Shiseido scent slated to launch in the second half of 2015. “The The buzz launch of a fragrance will inject more femininity and emotion into the brand, which is what we were lacking. Fragrance will give the brand a new dimension and is a strong opportunity to bring more consumers to Shiseido,” explains Shiseido Europe vice president marketing and communication Florian Hanhausen. As for make-up, the brand is currently revamping its color range to give it a more modern positioning. The reworking of the line involves new product development, a rethink of its marketing visuals and a focus on star products. “The make-up category has undergone a lot of change over the years, with new brands coming into the market. We need to be more dynamic in this category, sharpen our image and define our unique selling point,” comments Hanhausen. The first major new launch in the reworked line will be a mascara, which will hit shelves in Europe in July next year. As a result of these efforts, Shiseido hopes that make-up will account for 25% of its business in Europe by 2020 (up from under 20% today), while fragrance will represent 10-15% of sales. In other news, the Shiseido group has appointed Shigeru Takano as president and director of Shiseido China. Takano is currently gm of the company’s Asia Pacific Sales Department and gm of its Masstige Business Development Unit, International Business Division. Current senior manager of Asia Pacific Sales Department and Masstige Business Development Unit, International Business Division Tatsuya Nagai will replace Takano in his previous role. Toshihiko Okabe, deputy gm China Business Planning Department, China Business Division, has been named gm of the department. All appointments go into effect on January 1, 2015. Retail US department-store retailer Saks Fifth Avenue has opened a new space devoted to beauty services at its flagship New York City location on Fifth Avenue. Called Beauty on 5, the area is located on the store’s fifth floor amid trendy contemporary fashion brands. Beauty on 5 features a nail bar by UK brand Nails Inc offering manicures, a Blink brow bar for brow shaping services and a Trish McEvoy make-up station that provides either touch-ups or full makeovers. In August, Saks opened The Fragrance Library at the store, a fragrance concept devoted to designer fragrance brands. Niche fragrance brand Kilian opened its first boutique in Paris late November. Located on rue Cambon, just off the city’s premium shopping street rue St Honoré, this is the brand’s third standalone store after Moscow and New York. Covering 55m2 (592ft2), the store was designed by interior decorator Chahan Minassian, who was also behind the décor of Kilian’s other two stores. The Paris boutique blends decorative elements from the Art Deco period and features black and white décor with touches of gold. n n n www.bwconfidential.com - December 4-17, 2014 #102 - Page 3 CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL News roundup n n n The flooring is made of black marble and the furnishings, designed by Minassian, are inspired by 1920s design. Different areas in the store are personalized to reflect the brand’s fragrance collections: L’Oeuvre Noire, Arabian Nights, Asian Tales, In the Garden of Good and The buzz Evil and Addictive State of Mind. Customers can sample fragrances in the seated area at the back of the store. In addition to the brand’s offer, the boutique features exclusive collections, including the scented jewelry line, Kilian’s range of small clutches and Noir Aphrodisiaque, a new fragrance to launch in January 2015. People US-based Avon has reorganized its Latin America management team as part of its turnaround plan. Avon’s Latin America management will now be divided between two of the company’s executives. David Legher, currently svp and president of Avon Brazil, will assume additional responsibility for the South Market Group (Argentina, Chile and Uruguay). Legher will report to ceo Sheri McCoy and join Avon’s executive committee. Fernando Acosta, currently svp and president Latin America, will retain responsibility for North Latin America and the Andean cluster. McCoy said that Latin America is Avon’s largest region, representing more than half of its annual sales, and that driving growth there is a top priority. Acosta will also become head of global brand marketing. Patricia Perez-Ayala, currently svp chief marketing officer and global brand and category president, is to leave the company in January 2015. Avon announced that John Higson, currently svp and president Europe Middle East, Africa, will take on an expanded role as head of global field operations. The company also announced additional moves as part of its $400m cost-cutting program, which will include more job cuts and contract terminations.