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Tophow the World’S100 Largest Beauty Companies Fared During COVID-19

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Tophow the World’S100 Largest Beauty Companies Fared During COVID-19 A SPECIAL EDITION OF THE 2020 BEAUTY TOPHow the World’s100 Largest Beauty Companies Fared During COVID-19 LEAD TIME NICOLAS HIERONIMUS TAKES THE REINS THE BRAINS AT L’O R É A L BEHIND SKIN CARE’S HOTTEST BRAND SHEENA YAITANES FINE-TUNES HER CREATIVITY PREDICTING THE FUTURE OF WELLNESS April BINC Cover.indd 1 4/13/21 12:02 PM B:10.25" T:10" S:9.5" B:12.25" S:11.5" T:12" ©2021 L’Oréal USA, Inc. Untitled-22 1 4/14/21 8:36 AM Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black PR27687_M21CS002_02.indd | Page 1/1 Project # PR27687 Client L'Oreal Headline BECAU5E YOU'RE W0RTH IT Bleed 10.25" x 12.25" AQR CopyWriter Job # None Product 50 Anniversary Visual Viola Trim 10" x 12" Studio QA Acct Exec PP Eileen Kaufman / Frances Safety 9.5" x 11.5" Espinal Gutter None Proofreader Release QA User Brian Ng Art Director Print Prod Document Path CWWNYC:Craft Production:L’Oreal:Production:Magazine:PR27687_NYC-CWW - Beauty Inc Print 50th Anniv ft Viola:PR27687_M21CS002_02.indd | Saved 4-13-2021 7:49 PM | Print/ Export 4-13-2021 7:49 PM | Print Scale None FONTS Gotham (Book; OpenType) | IMAGES CNY_PR27687_02_462_v3_QC_G300_SWOP.tif (CMYK; 810 ppi; Up to Date; 37.01%), logo_loreal_paris_n100_rich_black.eps (Up to Date; 88.94%), CNY_PR27687_LOREAL-50-LOGO-BIWI-BLACK- FONT_SWOP.psd (CMYK; 635 ppi; Up to Date; 113.22%) SWATCHES IN DOC Black, DoNotPrint NOTES TABLE OF CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS 6 A NOVICE NO MORE Charles Rosier may have been new to beauty when he cofounded Augustinus Bader, but its meteoric success is proof positive he’s a fast learner. 10 ON THE RIGHT SCENT Fragrance has been one of the hottest categories during the pandemic. And with the new crop of scents, the momentum shows no signs of slowing. 12 ASSESSING THE UPS AND DOWNS As manufacturers grapple with the impact of the pandemic, Allison Collins analyzes the new metrics of success. 13 INDEPENDENT SPIRIT The top indies in the skin care sector, as chosen by the industry in the 14 Beauty Inc Greatest vote. Inside the future of the wellness category. 14 A HEALTHY OUTLOOK From mushrooms to mitochondria, what’s next in the ever-expanding world of wellness. 15 THE ART OF FRAGRANCE Self-taught perfumer Maya Njie has fused her love of fragrance with a natural proclivity for storytelling to create a brand unlike any other. 50 STRIKING A CHORD For Kosas founder Sheena Yaitanes, playing the piano provides equal parts 50 meditation and inspiration. How Sheena Yaitanes fine-tunes her creative process. FEATURES 16 WRITING A NEW CHAPTER Sawyers 6 On the eve of becoming L’Oréal’s sixth Charles Rosier CEO, Nicolas Hieronimus sat down with talks start-ups, Rosa celebs and what’s by Beauty Inc for an exclusive interview next for skin care’s to share his vision for the future of the buzziest brand. Flower world’s biggest beauty company — and reveal the key forces that have shaped his view of the business. Veuillet; Hugo by 25 THE 2020 ON THE COVER: BEAUTY INC TOP 100 Nicolas Hieronimus Rosier The year 2020 was a year unlike any was photographed other. Here, in our annual ranking of exclusively for Rago; 15 WWD Beauty Inc at the world’s largest beauty companies, Where memory meets product L’Oréal’s offices in WWD Beauty Inc quantifies the impact Levallois, France. Rozette of the global pandemic and analyzes development by for self-taught the companies, categories and perfumer Maya Njie. Photograph by countries that have emerged stronger. Emmanuel Fradin photograph WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2021 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 216, NO 2. , April 23, 2021. WWD (ISSN0149-5380) is printed 6 times per year in February, April, June, August, October and December) along with a daily digital edition, by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Creek, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY, 10017. Yaitanes For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. WWD BEAUTY INC 3 April BINC TOC.indd 1 4/14/21 1:11 PM EDITOR’S LETTER JENNY B. FINE EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR ALLISON COLLINS SENIOR EDITOR, BEAUTY ALEXA TIETJEN PRESTIGE BEAUTY AND DIGITAL EDITOR RYMA CHIKHOUNE STAFF WRITER, BEAUTY JAMES MANSO JUNIOR BEAUTY REPORTER JAMES FALLON EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA PETE BORN EDITOR AT LARGE, WWD CONTRIBUTORS TIFFANY AP (HONG KONG) SAMANTHA CONTI (LONDON) BOOTH MOORE (LOS ANGELES) SANDRA SALIBIAN (MILAN) COPYDESK MAUREEN MORRISON-SHULAS COPY CHIEF DANIELLE GILLIARD, DEANNA MARTIN COPY EDITORS ART DEPARTMENT JESSICA SARRO ART DIRECTOR UNSTOPPABLE TESS DONLEVIE, PHEANNY PHEN DESIGNERS PHOTO JENNA GREENE VISUAL MEDIA DIRECTOR ICOLAS HIERONIMUS JOINED L’Oréal in 1987, three years after the JILLIAN SOLLAZZO SENIOR VISUAL MEDIA EDITOR group became the top-ranked company in WWD’s annual survey of ALEXANDRA BANDONI ASSOCIATE VISUAL MEDIA EDITOR beauty’s largest manufacturers by global sales. GEORGE CHINSEE, LEXIE MORELAND PHOTOGRAPHERS Since then, L’Oréal has steadfastly occupied the top spot — and ADVERTISING AMANDA SMITH PRESIDENT, FAIRCHILD MEDIA GROUP Hieronimus has methodically worked his way up to the very highest SANDI MINES ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, FAIRCHILD MEDIA GROUP echelons of the company. On May 1, he will become chief executive ASHLEY FARADINEH DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS SUE JIN LEE DIRECTOR, PARTNERSHIPS & AUDIENCE MANAGEMENT officer of the French giant, charged with maintaining the group’s growth KATE WALKER DIRECTOR, SPONSORSHIPS JENNIFER PETERSEN DIRECTOR, FASHION & LUXURY trajectory in one of the most challenging times in the history of the business. Among ELISABETH SUGY RAWSON EUROPEAN DIRECTOR Nhis tasks: Keeping L’Oréal’s momentum in China while stimulating growth in mature KATE WALKER DIRECTOR, SPONSORSHIPS SARA PREMTAJ INTEGRATED MARKETING & DIGITAL SALES PLANNER markets and reenergizing key categories like color cosmetics in the U.S., all the while EMANUELA ALTIMANI SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR continuing to drive digital and sustainability efforts in a world rocked by the pandemic DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES and social justice movements. STEPHANIE SIEGEL VICE PRESIDENT, SALES & MARKETING LAUREN-ASHLEY SPENCER SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING Those who have worked closest with him say he is more than up to the task, describing CASS SPENCER CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING him as a quick thinker, keen competitor and team player able to rally people round a YENI CHO, ALINA REYNOSA MARKETING DESIGNERS shared strategy. PRODUCTION Before the most recent lockdowns in France, European beauty editor Jennifer Weil KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ANNE LEONARD PRODUCTION MANAGER sat down with Hieronimus for an exclusive interview since being named to the role. He PREPRESS PRODUCTION talked about the forces that have shaped his career, the impact of the last year on his THERESE HURTER PREMEDIA SPECIALIST strategic vision and what’s next. Turn to “Writing a New Chapter” on page 16 for the FAIRCHILD LIVE full report. MARY ANN BACHER EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR While L’Oréal has retained its top spot in the 2020 Beauty Inc Top 100, this year’s ranking is anything but business as usual. Not surprisingly, the coronavirus pandemic and FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC IS A DIVISION OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION resulting lockdowns and store closures took a toll on most businesses, with 59 percent JAY PENSKE CHAIRMAN & CEO of the companies posting decreases and total sales for all companies combined down 6.6 percent to $212.59 billion. And yet, there were bright spots and some big winners GERRY BYRNE VICE CHAIRMAN GEORGE GROBAR CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER — Natura entered the top 10 for the first time, while L Brands shot to the number six SARLINA SEE CHIEF ACCOUNTING OFFICER CRAIG PERREAULT CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER position thanks to a surge in hand sanitizer sales. The complete list starts on page 25. TODD GREENE EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, BUSINESS AFFAIRS & The skin care brand Augustinus Bader has not yet made our list of the 100 biggest CHIEF LEGAL OFFICER MARK HOWARD CHIEF ADVERTISING AND PARTNERSHIPS OFFICER beauty manufacturers — but with sales of $70 million in just three years, one can PAUL RAINEY EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS & FINANCE envision it in the ranking sooner rather than later. And while cofounder and former TOM FINN EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS & FINANCE DEBASHISH GHOSH MANAGING DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL MARKETS financier Charles Rosier, the subject of this issue’s Master Class, has no prior experience JENNY CONNELLY SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, PRODUCT & TECHNOLOGY JUDITH R. MARGOLIN SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, DEPUTY GENERAL COUNSEL in the industry, he hasn’t let that stop him. “The lack of knowledge of the complexity KEN DELALCAZAR SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE of the beauty industry was an advantage,” said Rosier, “because there was no barrier to LAUREN UTECHT SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES NELSON ANDERSON SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE ambition.” And, as Nicolas Hieronimus would no doubt agree, the ambition to win is key. RACHEL TERRACE SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, LICENSING & BRAND DEVELOPMENT ABBY KAGLE VICE PRESIDENT AND ASSOCIATE GENERAL COUNSEL ADRIAN WHITE VICE PRESIDENT AND ASSOCIATE GENERAL COUNSEL ANNE DOYLE VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES BRIAN LEVINE VICE PRESIDENT, REVENUE OPERATIONS BROOKE JAFFE HEAD OF PUBLIC AFFAIRS & COMMUNICATIONS CHRISTINA YEOH VICE PRESIDENT, TECHNICAL OPERATIONS CONSTANCE EJUMA VICE PRESIDENT, SEO FRANK MCCALLICK VICE PRESIDENT, GLOBAL TAX GABRIEL KOEN VICE PRESIDENT, TECHNOLOGY GERARD BRANCATO VICE PRESIDENT, PMC DIGITAL ACQUISITION JACIE BRANDES VICE PRESIDENT, PORTFOLIO SALES JERRY RUIZ VICE PRESIDENT, ACQUISITIONS AND OPERATIONS JONI ANTONACCI VICE PRESIDENT, PRODUCTION OPERATIONS Jenny B.
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