ADIDAS KENDALL’S STEPS UP CALVINS KENDALL JENNER IS THE TOKYO TALES THE STRUGGLING GERMAN FACE OF THE LATEST AD MIUCCIA PRADA MINGLED WITH REI KAWAKUBO, ACTIVEWEAR BRAND OUTLINES AN CAMPAIGN FOR CALVIN RAF SIMONS AND MORE AT A MIU MIU EVENT AGGRESSIVE FIVE-YEAR PLAN TO KLEIN JEANS. PAGE 4 IN THE JAPANESE CAPITAL. PAGE 11 GET BACK TO GROWTH. PAGE 2

FROM DOV TO SEC No End To The Woes At American Apparel

By EVAN CLARK

AMERICAN APPAREL INC. is teetering on the edge of chaos. And if that in itself is nothing new, this time around the retailer’s facing an unusually thorny set of challenges on multiple fronts: ■ Ousted founder Dov Charney continues to stir up FRIDAY, MARCH 27, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY trouble, from agitating an already disgruntled work- WWD force to seeking a backer to buy the fi rm, moving ahead with arbitration and, tonight, appearing on ABC’s “20/20.” ■ Fourth-quarter losses widened as sales fell more than 9 percent and workers are being furloughed at the Los Angeles factory. ■ The brand is being reimagined with more of a social emphasis and some of the scantily clad sales associates long featured in its ads will be replaced with models. ■ Shareholders have sued the company, claiming it failed to maintain control of its colorful founder. Under Charney, American Apparel honed contro- versy to a high art and lurched from one loan with a sky- high interest rate to the next — always keeping just a step ahead of both the debt collector and Miss Manners. But this time it’s not Charney who’s courting lend- ers, pumping up the brand and generally keeping the plates spinning at one of the most prominent U.S. ap- parel producers. That job now falls to chief executive offi cer Paula Schneider, who has a fashion-packed résumé but fi nds herself facing a very unusual set of problems trying to change a seat-of-the-pants (or un- derpants) culture. The indefatigable Charney still looms large, al- though admittedly more in the background than ever. He is said to be devoting all of his time to devising ways to retake the company he founded. Since being fired in December, Charney has largely been out of the limelight, smarting from his SEE PAGE 12 BATTLE OF THE APPS Banana’s New Flagship Beauty-booking apps are quickly overpopulating the rapidly expanding mobile universe in cyberspace. Each beauty-booking company strives to deliver a Latest Makeover Move growing list of beauty services whenever and wherever consumers want them. As new entries enter the market, the question being asked: Do consumers want By DAVID MOIN 10 beauty-booking apps on their mobile? For more, see pages 6 and 7. NEW YORK — At Banana Republic, it’s about light- ening up — both the color palette and the attitude. The fl agship opening today on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan’s Flatiron neighborhood is the latest ex- pression of the brand’s makeover, led by the wispy creative director, Marissa Webb. The $2.9 billion, 700- unit division of Gap Inc. has been stalled over the past few years due to increasing competition and a collection that got stale, so it’s seeking to increase its relevance and growth rate. The two-level, 27,892-square-foot fl agship here, with 14,338 square feet for selling, breaks from the brand’s monochromatic, all-too-serious careerwear image with an infusion of color and a greater variety of casual clothes intermixed with some of the longer- standing looks suitable for work. Bing Crosby-style straw fedoras, Superga sneakers and blush moto jack- ets, as well as Banana’s “Heritage” cargo jackets and linen sweaters, bring a broader appeal and a touch of playfulness. In men’s, softer, less-constructed blazers are styled with linen sweaters, scarves and T-shirts, and paired with chinos or denim. For Banana Republic, a palette that was predominantly black and white has been invigorated this season with peaches, teals and mustard yellows. Located at 105 Fifth Avenue near 18th Street, the fl agship showcases men’s and women’s styles under one roof, and replaces the separate men’s and wom- en’s stores that had been on Fifth Avenue two blocks SEE PAGE 5 2 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 27, 2015 WWD.COM

Adidas Pressing on the Accelerator DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX care (5 percent), he remarked: “This is very good FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. By PAULINA SZMYDKE news for us.” Adidas has been particularly struggling to step “Whoever moves the fastest wins,” predicted up its game in America, which represents 30 per- Herbert Hainer, chief executive officer of Adidas, cent of the global sporting goods market and where ON INSTAGRAM adding that the Herzogenaurach, Germany-based it lost to rival Nike, whose offering is considered sporting goods giant was on its way to become “the cooler and more desirable. first fast sports company” in the world. As Mark King, president of Adidas for North He wasn’t kidding. America put it: “We don’t own the hearts and minds Speaking during an eight-hour marathon on the of athletes and consumers in America.” group’s Investors Day, during which he was joined He admitted Adidas has relied too much on its by the entire senior management staff, Hainer said strength in soccer, which generates more than 2 Adidas was to reduce production lead times signifi - billion euros per year in sales, making Adidas the cantly by bringing manufacturing back from Asia global leader in the category, but has failed to cap- and speed up in-season creation, based on trends ture “the unique mind-set” of the U.S. consumer. and bestsellers. “If you want to be strong in America, you can’t

The company is taking cues from its young fast- just dominate soccer. An average U.S. high school #15SECONDSWITHALEXBADIA fashion label NEO in the matter, able to serve up has 15 team sports. A college has 35 team sports. In new products within 45 days versus 12 to 18 months, other countries one sport dominates, here it’s many. the industry’s standard. Sports defi ne society.” Future Adidas stores would be directly linked to To start a grassroots movement and increase vis- production facilities, possibly employing robots, the ibility on the fi eld, Adidas plans to focus more on group said, allowing customers to have a personal- basketball, baseball, volleyball, lacrosse and, most ized pair of sneakers ready in 15 minutes while’’ importantly, U.S. football, which boasts the largest they are enjoying a cup of cappuccino. fan base. “They don’t drive much revenue,” said “This is going to rock the industry,” forecasted King, “but they get into the heart of the consumer. ON WWD.COM Barbour Roland Auschel, in charge of Adidas’ global sales, not- And we need to get into that locker room. Adidas is ing the sporting goods maker would become the fi rst cool — that’s the message we are after.” company in the fi eld to apply this new business model, King cited Adidas’ recent collaboration with Valentino which is expected to increase full-price sell-through by Eastbay catalogue “where every serious high school 20 percent, while keeping low the risk of overbuying. athlete buys its gear” as a positive example. “Since “We will deliver products faster [and] we will de- it launched, our U.S. football cleat became the best- liver them better through premium presentations selling item,” ahead of Nike and other competitors. across our unrivaled controlled space network, “So if you ask: ‘Can we make a difference?’ I say which we want to represent more than 60 percent of ‘yes, we can.’ We just have to go get it, it’s right in total sales by 2020. All this is going to happen across front of us,” he cheered. a [25 percent] tighter product portfolio, while in- In addition, Adidas would sponsor individual creasing our marketing spend [and] the per product athletes rather than whole teams, following the Balmain investment,” added Hainer. expiration of its NBA part- But speed is not the only nership, and rethink its re- pillar of the ambitious fi ve- If we want to be strong tail model. “Today we have year growth plan that Adidas 30 stores spread across the presented on Thursday. U.S. with 25 different for- Hardy The group said it would in America, we need a mats and they don’t tell one Amies focus on six relevant me- story,” King lamented. tropolises — Los Angeles, strong franchise in the Another problem New York, London, Paris, Stateside is the price point. Shanghai and Tokyo — not- mid-price point between “If we want to be strong in ing that its business in those America, we need a strong key cities is larger than in franchise in the mid-price Men’s Fall 2015 some countries. “If we win $70 and $100. point between $70 and Accessories: Fur accents, running in New York and Los $100,” said King, singling out chunky statement shoes, Christopher Angeles, we will win running — MARK KING, ADIDAS “Bounce,” which has been a graphic elements and Raeburn in the U.S.,” Auschel gave as an example, adding that success for the brand and whose sales jumped from humorous conversational 50 percent of the global population lives in key cities, zero to seven million pairs in two years. designs are some of the and together they generate 80 percent of global GDP. The running category, which the group plans to leading trends within the “These are the incubators for the new,” he rallied. double globally — and “dramatically” in the U.S. — growing and dynamic men’s As part of the strategy, Adidas is also eager to en- will play a crucial role in America, also helped by accessories market for fall. gage more directly with its end-consumer, aiming to Reebok’s growing popularity in the region. For more, see WWD.com. become “the fi rst sports brand that invites athletes, Hainer smashed rumors on Thursday of Adidas consumers, partners and customers to be part of it,” wanting to get rid of the brand. “No doubt, Reebok is Balenciaga according to Hainer. one of our three main brands [along with Adidas and Alexander McQueen “We are already working with some of the most TaylorMade-Adidas golf]. We have been hammered creative and innovative people. Our successful co- for the past seven years about it, but we turned the operation with Kanye West is just the most recent ex- brand around. We would be stupid to sell it now.” ample of this openness. Kanye loves to work with us Reebok’s’’ president Matt O’Toole conceded that the because — to use his words — we give him the ‘oxy- turnaround took “too long,” but that “the work was gen’ to live his creativity while his former partner just done” and that it was time to bank in on the 76-billion- wanted to put his name on their shoes,” said the ceo. euro fi tness industry of today. His main target: the new By 2017, the fi rm wants 30 percent of its content “fi t generation,” a college educated consumer that to be created by consumers. works out four times a week, mixing three different ac- The sports giant further expects to quadruple its tivities. “They represent 20 percent of the active popu- e-commerce business to more than 2 billion euros, lation, 33 percent of global fi tness spend, spending 40 or $2.2 billion at current exchange, by 2020. more than the average consumer,” O’Toole said. As 60 percent of all purchases involve a digital The focus, once again, will be on key cities, where device, according to Auschel, the group is invest- Reebok opened 443 so-called FitHubs, which per- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA ing heavily in full digitalization, including click and formed 27 percent better than their preceding retail @ WWD.com/social collect, ship from store and what he referred to as format, and open source. “We want consumers to be- “endless aisle” allowing the company to showcase come cocreators. The future of fi tness will be crowd- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. its full range of product, which would never run out sourced,” said the brand’s president, identifying com- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. of stock thanks to shorter production lead times. bat training as the fastest-growing business within the COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 63. FRIDAY, MARCH 27, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays Auschel noted that click and collect, which was training unit. and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two introduced in 20 stores in Moscow recently, saw a Adidas also needs Reebok to win over a larger additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals 30 percent increase in sales in one week. “That’s female clientele, which currently represent 40 per- postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses signifi cant,” he judged, adding the format would cent of revenue at Reebok, a number that is slated to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, roll out to 200 units by the end of August. to rise another 10 percent by 2020. P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at Adidas, which swung to a loss at the end of 2014, “Women are the chief purchasing offi cer in the wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York said net income was set to increase by 15 percent household. They buy 100 percent for themselves, Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected on average a year under the new fi ve-year plan, 91 percent for their kids and 67 percent for men. address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you while currency-neutral sales are to grow at a high- They are active in all sports and dominate social are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues single-digit rate on average per year until 2020 via media,” noted Eric Liedtke, head of global brands contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production 500 to 600 additional stores. at Adidas, adding: “She also buys 80 percent of the correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. The company learned from past mistakes, con- running product — this is our greatest opportunity.” For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. ceded Hainer. “We lost brand desirability because Running, after football and training, is Adidas’ To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED we did not focus on the needs of the consumer. We third strongest category. It grew double-digits for MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND were too static.” But as the sporting goods indus- the fourth consecutive year in 2014, with the “Flux” TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED try is growing 7 percent a year, ahead of consumer shoe emerging as the fastest growing product in the TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE electronics (6 percent) and beauty and personal industry, according to Liedtke. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WE COVER THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

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FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT CARLY GRESH, BEAUTY DIRECTOR, 646.356.4705, [email protected] 4 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 27, 2015 Kendall Jenner Fronts #MyCalvins Denim Campaign model ever since I was a kid,” campaign was really awesome. trend has continued into the hundreds of global digital in- By LISA LOCKWOOD said Jenner. She said she grad- The underwear is amazing. fi rst quarter of 2015. fl uencers from more than 25 uated from high school a little Honestly, I wear it every night In Europe, the company is countries, reaching about 400 KENDALL JENNER, the over a year ago “and left my to sleep and I wear it every in the early stages of a turn- million fans and generating 19-year-old model of the moment options open.” She just com- day, so it was a natural thing around of the Calvin Klein more than 13 million interac- and social media darling, will pleted a busy fashion month. for me. It’s funny because my Jeans business. It has installed tions worldwide. appear in a new ad campaign “I did a lot of runway. It was agent asked me, ‘why did you more than 60 new jeans shops The denim series is an- for Calvin Klein’s #mycalvins exhausting. I was in four cit- post that?’ and I said ‘because throughout Europe and has chored with a modern cropped Denim Series, a limited-edition, ies and walked a lot of shows,” I’m actually wearing it and I improved the quality of its logo-driven offering inspired by she said. actually love it and I wanted to European jeans line with bet- athletic and urban streetwear. Asked about her personal post it.’” ter fabrics, trims and packag- In North America, the line style, Jenner said, “I’m still As for the latest jeans ing. “We are effectively out will be introduced at Opening 19, so I feel like my style is line, Calvin Klein Jeans and of all off-price retailers in Ceremony’s New York and Los still developing. I fi nd myself Opening Ceremony will jointly Europe and have closed ap- Angeles stores on April 15, wearing jeans and T-shirts and host an invitation-only launch proximately 40 underperform- as well as online at event on April 23 in ing stores over the last 18 openingceremony. Kendall Los Angeles. months. The jeans business com. Distribution will Jenner in The global print in Europe is seeing improved then be expanded to the new and digital advertis- sell-throughs and higher AUR’s calvinklein.com on campaign. ing campaign will in the fi rst quarter of 2015 with May 15. break in May and growth across all European The global image will be supported by markets [except Russia],” campaign, photo- paid social media. Chirico said. graphed by Alasdair The first billboard Jenner, who’s been model- McLellan and styled in the U.S. will go up ling since she was 14, has re- by Melanie Ward in early April in Los ally hit her stride in the past in New York City, Angeles, outside of year. She was the most-tweet- will also feature Opening Ceremony. ed-about model during fashion male model Simon Additional billboards month, where she walked the Nessman. The ads will will follow begin- runways in New York, London, have a combination ning April 15 in Los Paris and Milan. Among the of print, outdoor and Angeles (on Sunset shows she appeared in were digital components. and Havenhurst) Chanel, Alexander Wang, Diane Jenner and Simon Nessman The campaign was and in New York von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, produced under the (on Houston and Vera Wang, Michael Kors, Marc take on the “Calvin” logo. The creative direction of Lafayette), followed Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Fendi women’s and men’s offering Calvin Klein Inc.’s in- by additional outdoor and Balmain. She also appears features Calvin Klein jeans, house ad agency and sites in Europe. in spring campaigns for Marc logo T-shirts, denim shorts and creative studio. Meantime, after Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld and jackets, jogger sweatpants, “Honestly, it has upgrading its denim has an advertising deal with unisex backpacks and hats, in been my dream to be line, revamping its Estée Lauder. baby blue, washed black and able to do something product distribution “Kendall is a modern beauty white rinses. The collection like that,” said Jenner and closing stores who brings her youthful spirit is priced to retail from $58 to in an interview. “Calvin that no longer met and edge to this special Calvin $348 and will be offered for Klein’s ad campaigns expectations, Calvin Klein Jeans business,” added one season only. have always been Klein Jeans has re- Melisa Goldie, chief market- “This series is an expres- so memorable.” cently delivered ing offi cer of Calvin Klein Inc., sion of the athletic trend that’s Jenner is happy new product, and who added that “Kendall’s happening right now,” Carrigan to follow in the foot- the company is see- powerful fan base and global said. “I designed an assort- steps of other models ing a good reaction reach will further amplify the ment of unisex Ts and tops to be who have appeared in from the consumer, current cultural conversation mixed with denim in elevated Calvin Klein ads. particularly where surrounding the Calvin Klein street styles.” “Being a Calvin Klein model leather jackets most often. I they have installed new Calvin Jeans brand.” Humberto Leon, founder is something that I’ve always fi nd style inspiration just trav- Klein Jeans shops, according The new limited-edition se- of Opening Ceremony, added, dreamed of and it’s incred- eling around the world and to Manny Chirico, chairman ries, designed by Calvin Klein “We grew up seeing Calvin ible to follow such major mod- being in New York, London, and chief executive officer Jeans’ global creative director Klein ads and wearing the els like Kate Moss, Christy Paris and seeing all of these of PVH Corp., parent compa- Kevin Carrigan, was infl uenced jeans so it’s very exciting to be Turlington and Lara Stone,” different places and people ny of Calvin Klein. In North by the success of the #mycal- working closely with the brand she said. with such cool style and edge. America, Calvin Klein Jeans vins social media campaign, on the launch of the new Describing the set in New I think that I pick up a lot from has installed 225 shops in in which Jenner participated, #mycalvins Denim Series. At York, Jenner said, “It was actu- just traveling.” 2014 — 150 men’s shops and 75 alongside other models, musi- Opening Ceremony, we want to ally a pretty cool studio. I love Jenner said she enjoyed ap- women’s shops. In those newly cians, athletes, celebrities and bring the customers into our rain, and it was raining outside pearing in the earlier #mycalvins installed shops, it has experi- influencers from around the own story and introduce them and had a cool vibe.” She said social media campaign, where enced a 40 percent retail sales globe. The campaign encour- to what matters to us, and this she wore a jeans vest, “cool she posted a selfie of herself increase over the prior year. aged fans of the Calvin Klein partnership represents that T-shirts” and cropped tops dur- wearing Calvin Klein underwear. For fall 2014, overall average brand to post selfi es wearing idea because Calvin Klein was ing the shoot. “I’ve been a fan of Calvin unit retail was up 15 percent, Calvin Klein using #mycal- always an important part of “I’ve always wanted to be a Klein, so to be a part of that driven more by men’s, and that vins. The campaign engaged our youth.” Turnaround at Lululemon Continues to Gain Traction

year’s second quarter and has lion, accounting for 19 percent of that both inclement weather “We are otherwise seeing that sell- By ARNOLD J. KARR kept the sales gains coming. the total versus 18.8 percent in in the early part of the current throughs remained strong, and un- Exceeding guidance it raised last year’s quarter. quarter and the continuing im- derlying demand for our products DESPITE A GUARDED ap- in January based on strong sales, Lululemon guided investors pact of West Coast port delays is consistent with what we saw proach to its 2015 guidance, the Vancouver-based yoga and to limited expectations for the necessitated a conservative ap- over the holiday period.” investors and analysts appear activewear firm reported net new year, with anticipated fi rst- proach. Investors sent shares up Comparable sales are expect- convinced that the turnaround income for the three months quarter revenue of $413 million 4.9 percent to $63.97 in Nasdaq ed to expand at a low-single-dig- at Lululemon Athletica Inc. is ended Feb. 1 of $110.9 million, or trading Thursday. it rate in the fi rst quarter. for real and showed their confi- 78 cents a diluted share, 5 cents Although the port delays While maintaining his “hold” dence in the company by send- above the consensus estimate of “proved not to be material in Q4,” rating on the stock, Jefferies ana- ing shares up almost 5 percent analysts. Year-ago profi ts were said Laurent Potdevin, chief ex- lyst Randal Konik was impressed after the company reported a $109.7 million, or 75 cents. ecutive offi cer, “we are now see- by the company’s move to posi- double-digit improvement in Revenues rose 15.6 percent, 15.6% ing a more meaningful impact.” tive comps, but noted that the sales and better-than-expected to $602.5 million from $521 mil- QUARTERLY REVENUE INCREASE AT In his first conference call low expectations for fi rst-quarter earnings in the fourth quarter. lion, just above the analysts’ con- LULULEMON ATHLETICA INC. since joining Lululemon as comps “implies a sequential de- After seeing sales deceler- sensus estimate of $602.4 million. chief fi nancial offi cer after nine celeration in top-line trends and ate following a recall on its Comparable sales were up 6 per- years at J. Crew Group, Stuart keeps us cautious on calling this sheer Luon pants in 2013 and cent, 8 percent at constant cur- to $418 million and EPS of 31 to Haselden estimated that $10 mil- is a full recovery for the brand.” a now apparently peaceful rency, including a 2 percent gain 33 cents, below the $442 million lion in sales risk for the fourth For the full year, Lululemon’s resolution of its confl ict with in same-store sales, which rose and 39 cents, respectively, previ- quarter would instead negatively net income fell 14.5 percent to founder Chip Wilson, the com- 5 percent at constant currency. ously anticipated by analysts. affect fi rst-quarter sales. $239 million, or $1.66 a diluted pany surprised Wall Street Direct-to-consumer revenues Wall Street appeared to ac- “We also expect these delays to share, while revenues rose 12.9 with a revenue gain in last were up 17 percent to $114.5 mil- cept the company’s explanation extend into early Q2,” the cfo said. percent to $1.8 billion. WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 27, 2015 5 WWD.COM Banana Republic Unveils Fresh-Look Flagship {Continued from page one} south. Right at the entrance, there’s a lengthy display of third-party vendors, and through much of the space, there’s a whimsical approach to the visual display. Is it the prototype for the future? “Not necessarily. The goal is to make each individual store feel unique,” said Webb, during a walk-through Thursday morning. “This is the beginning. Not the big ta-da.” Some of the merchandising and deco- rative elements could appear in existing or new stores. “It’s still open to conversa- tion,” Webb said. “It’s a big space,” and not necessarily what Banana Republic thinks ideal for the future, Webb acknowledged. “One of the things we are looking at going for- ward are smaller spaces — more inti- mate spaces that have personality. This fl agship is boutique-y in a big space. It’s divided into little sections. Each area has a different personality.” At the entrance, a 20-foot-long bleached-wood table exhibits women’s products unique to the Flatiron fl agship, either created by Banana Republic or sourced from third-party vendors and Footwear on the ground level designers that manufacture in America. by the grand chrome staircase. There’s gold jewelry from Odette and home decor from Izola (two vendors from New York City), custom hand-painted Marissa denim from Banana Republic, as well as Webb third-party notebooks and sneakers that Banana staff hand-painted. With the third- party assortment, Webb said the criteria is “if it feels organic and fi ts in with what we are doing and has an interesting story behind it...we are not trying to force it. I’m about supporting artisan brands. They add a different level of engagement.” Moving further into the store, there is women’s apparel, accessories and footwear. Deeper in, there’s a canopy supported by wrought iron bars which creates a shops-in-shop feel to highlight colorful women’s apparel and acces- sories. Further back are the cash regis- ters and a jewelry table, enhancing the boutique ambience. Off to the right are petites and fi tting rooms. All product in Banana Republic gets playful with its display. the store is for summer, which is Webb’s PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY fi rst collection for the brand. She joined Banana Republic 10 months ago. taking a stake in her own line, Gap sur- like dripping paint cans and vintage hang- very accessible, and artwork from em- Upstairs, the men’s fl oor mixes and prised the industry. Now Webb is the face ers set amid the sportswear and accesso- ployees on the creative team including matches chinos and suiting with casual of Banana Republic, though she reports ries. While the assortment is noticeably Bruce Lee Lewis. “We don’t want to be knits and denim. In the center is a glass- to Andi Owen, who became president of casual compared to years past, “Every part of a corporate veil,” Webb said. “We walled shops-in-shop displaying Heritage Banana Republic last January. section of the store has a dressed-up ele- are tapping into our creative teams to do pieces and some third-party items such Webb said she’s involved in “anything ment. We are mixing the two elements to- more things.” as Damn Handsome skin care and TM that is customer interfacing,” from de- gether,” Webb observed, as she ascended She’s changing up the image of the 1985 leather goods. On either side of the signing the collection to the marketing, the grand chrome staircase leading from brand and the creative process. “Gap structure, there are additional men’s ap- merchandising, store design and even women’s wear to men’s wear. “There’s va- Inc. is a huge corporation but we are parel and accessories separated by trend. window display. Those quirky slogans on riety. It’s not over-assorted.” still people. We can choose to operate Though the fl agship has been in devel- the fl agship’s walls, like “I’m OK with my The site, a former Barnes & Noble differently.” Webb said, adding, “I love opment for two years, long before Webb crazy” and “I have absolutely no desire store, also features contrasting white being able to interact with everyone in arrived, it still refl ects how she’s trans- to fi t in” are all Webb’s. The approach ex- walls and dark wood trim, oversize dis- the company. I have an opinion. It’s not forming the brand. In tapping Webb and tends to the spirited display and props, play tables that make the merchandise about control.”

Feb. 2, the group’s net income ing well, Oxford’s shares, after was up 5.5 percent to $15.8 advancing 3.4 percent to $59.51 Oxford Industries Seeks to Sell Ben Sherman million, or 96 cents a diluted in regular trading hours, picked target,” said Thomas Chubb 3rd, ly overseeing operations last share, from $15 million, or up 10.1 percent to $65.61 in af- By ARNOLD J. KARR president and chief executive of- year, the brand appeared to turn 91 cents, in the 2013 quarter. ter-hours trading following the fi cer of the Atlanta-based Oxford a corner. Fourth-quarter sales Adjusted EPS was $1.08, 5 cents release of results. OXFORD INDUSTRIES INC. Industries. “With the aim of were up 26.6 percent to $25.4 above the $1.03 expected, on av- Helped by an 8 percent in- has taken Ben Sherman as far achieving long-term value for our million as full-year revenues erage, by analysts. crease in comparable-store sales, as it thinks it can. shareholders, we have concluded grew 15.3 percent to $77.5 mil- Falling just short of consen- quarterly revenues at Tommy The company said late that the sale of Ben Sherman is lion. Operating losses were re- sus estimates, revenues rose 9.6 Bahama rose 10.9 percent to $186 Thursday as it reported strong the right course of action. We duced to $861,000 in the fourth percent to $274.5 million from million as operating income ac- fourth-quarter results that it have initiated a sale process and quarter, versus $2.6 million in celerated 12 percent to $29.1 mil- had elected to sell the British expect a timely conclusion.” the same period of 2013, while lion. Lilly Pulitzer’s 9 percent brand, acquired for $146 million With Financo as its fi nancial the full-year loss declined to boost in comps helped lift sales in 2014, after a long struggle to adviser, the company expects to $10.8 million from $13.1 million. 15.8 percent to $34.8 million return it to profi tability. complete the sale of the brand Analysts speculated that while operating income expand- While Ben Sherman didn’t this year but has neither a spe- Oxford would be looking to 8% ed 47 percent to $2.1 million. achieve an operating profi t in cifi c timetable for doing so nor off-load the brand to focus on COMPARABLE-SALES GAIN AT The Lanier tailored clothing either the fourth quarter or full an assurance of a successful its larger, profitable Tommy division saw sales backtrack 9.5 THE TOMMY BAHAMA DIVISION. year, the company managed to transaction. Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer percent to $27 million, but oper- cut its losses substantially and While Oxford has seen its brands. Both experienced ating income rose 7.9 percent to return to sales growth in both acquisitions of Tommy Bahama strong results in the fourth $250.4 million. Promotional $3.2 million. the quarter and year. and Lilly Pulitzer pay consistent quarter, when Oxford, after pressures contributed to a de- Oxford’s full-year profits “Ben Sherman made great dividends, Ben Sherman has reducing guidance when it re- cline in gross margin to 54.3 per- were up 1 percent to $45.8 mil- progress in 2014 and left the struggled with losses and de- ported third-quarter results in cent of sales from 55.1 percent a lion, or $2.79 a diluted share, year with positive momentum, clining sales for most of its life January, saw the two brands year ago. while revenues hit $997.8 mil- which we believe now positions as an Oxford division. rally strongly. With Ben Sherman in play lion, 8.8 percent above their it as an attractive acquisition With top management direct- In the three months ended and other operations perform- 2013 level. 6 WWD Friday, March 27, 2015 beauty

Evolving the Beauty-Booking Market es ranging from yoga to makeup, has ob- receive a Web site with online-booking secure an appointment at a location clos-

By Jayme Cyk tained 50,000 downloads and has raised functionality. additionally, the platform est to the client. more than $4 million in funds from ven- does follow-ups and thank-yous for the “With the launch of Beauty Pass, our BeaUTy-BOOkING aPPS are battling ture capital firms. professional’s clients. mission is to make it even easier and to be the last service standing on a con- aarabi noted an app is successful “On average we grow a stylist’s rev- more accessible by being the one-stop sumer’s mobile phone. once it surpasses two million downloads. enue by 70 percent in the first year using solution for all of your beauty book-

Not everyone wants five apps on their “There are over one million apps on our system with our business tools,” said ing needs,” said Hillary Hutcheson, co- cell to book a makeup’’ or hair service. the app store and if you look at the top- melody mcCloskey, ceo and cofounder founder of Beauty Booked, who added Like every industry, the winners will ranking ones, most have over two million of StyleSeat, whose company provides the platform is experiencing double to stand out and the losers, well, they won’t downloads,” he said. “most of these on- bookings for 290,000 professionals in triple digit growth every month. “Starting be in business. demand and beauty-booking platforms more than 15,000 cities and just hit $1 bil- next week, our members will be able to “[Beauty-booking tools] is such a hot are far from that.” lion in appointments booked. most of the experience unlimited blowouts at trust-

space right now,” said maureen mullen, So what does one have to do to get booking is done for appointments in ad- ed salons anytime, anywhere across cofounder and head of research at L2 Inc. noticed? vance, but many other companies focus New york City. and this is just the begin- “But I don’t see there being six different “Whether it’s e-commerce or an app- on providing clients with immediate ser- ning.” Industry sources estimate Beauty beauty-booking apps [on the market].” based strategy, in order for businesses to vice, known as beauty on-demand. “We’re Booked’s Beauty Pass could generate $3 Which explains the onslaught of beau- grow and get really big you have to have not reliant on on-demand. Our research million to $5 million in sales in its first ty scheduling platforms popping up in a multichannel footprint,” mullen noted. shows us that on-demand is about 5 per- year as it rolls out to other markets. app-land. Beth mcGroarty, research di- “Companies have to think about how cent of the [service] industry as a whole. Glamsquad, which charges $50 ’’ rector at Spafinder, identified four types to be useful for consumers for more than It’s something girls want in New york for a blowout and up to $125 for an of booking apps where the majority fo- just beauty booking,” aarabi said. “For or maybe in Los angeles with a certain updo, raised $7 million in funds led by cuses solely on taking reservations: example, offer them the chance to try level of income, but the average woman, SoftBank Capital with minority partici- person, mom, cannot do that or doesn’t pation from Lerer Ventures, aOL’s BBG have a house where she feels comfort- Fund and montage Ventures. The on-de- able with that.” mand app has expanded to three markets We’ll see consolidation in the market and there most of these companies deliver ser- — New york, Los angeles and miami — vices — like blowouts and makeovers— and it’s looking to extend its offering and will be few apps that people will often use. but StyleSeat, which has raised more sell products on the app. than $14 million from investors, has cre- “We’re not a marketplace,” said — Parham aarabi, modiface ated a multidimensional business provid- alexandra Wilkis Wilson, Glamsquad’s ing services, bookings and a platform for ceo, who added the company books 1,500 stylists to grow their business. appointments a week and more than StyleSeat stands out, but there are a 30,000 appointments since it launched in n Network: “It’s like a Spafinder or yelp on beauty products or try on hairstyles. few others driving the market. January 2014. “The app is a tool.” where you have one app or one site that Selfies are popular; people love taking Beauty Booked, whose technology pow- Priv, whose extensive menu of services has a lot of different places to book.” photos, engaging that interest makes the ers salon- and spa-booking functionality consists of yoga instructors, masseuses, n Branded: “This is either a chain of app more viral and more popular. Other on allure.com, works both on-demand spray-tanning specialists, hairstylists and beauty businesses or individual spas and things are sample recommendations. and off. The app, which lets consumers manicurists, is rooted in personalization. salons with their own app so companies We’ve seen beauty advisers say, ‘Based book salon and spa appointments under Clients can choose their stylist based on can have a relationship with their cus- on your complexion or your hair color, one umbrella, recently added a new ele- reviews and an image of the professional. tomers. For example, Drybar or Bliss.” we would recommend you try out this ment called Beauty Pass. The component “We’re not seeing [much] crossover in new n Consumer: “This is about streamlining hairstyle or this product.’ The more of lets consumers sign up for a subscription services,” said morris Sutton, cofounder the appointment setting and structuring these elements, the easier it becomes for service that allows for unlimited beauty and co-ceo of Priv, noting the business the experience of waiting to get a call people to find the app and be stuck to it.” services. Clients can get deals on un- is growing double digits every month. back. This would include Schedulicity StyleSeat unveiled an app compo- limited blowouts for $99 a month. In the “We’re seeing tremendous customer loy- or StyleSeat.” nent to its online booking’’ platform six future, the company will add unlimited alty in the same service. One thing we’re n On-Demand: “It’s the Uber-ization months ago and already 60 percent of manicures, spa treatments, spray tans and doing, which allows us to scale out much of spa, beauty, fitness and yoga. It’s for bookings stem from mobile. The com- more. Beauty Pass will also offer last-min- faster, we’re offering agents our platform busy women or the stay-at-home mom. pany also offers a solution for beauty ute blowouts where consumers can book to build their business.” The things that you would book on de- professionals to grow their business. up to 15 minutes before their desired ap- But its consumer base isn’t widely mand are not personal, [because it’s a Stylists can sign up for StyleSeat and pointment time and the BB concierge will diverse. Priv’s core demographic is 25 last minute appointment or a quick-fix model].” examples of these include Priv and Glamsquad. Vênsette, Priv, Stylisted, Glamsquad, StyleSeat, Zeel, HiLovely, Beautified, Blownaway, BeautyNow, Uber Beauty, The Booking sTaTion BeautyFriend, StyleBee, Beauty Booked, there are so maNy beauty-bookiNg apps that they’ve Naturally falleN iNto four categories. Vagaro, Schedulicity — the competition is fierce, and the range of models share similar visions of delivering quality when and where consumers want it. according to Parham aarabi, chief executive officer of modiface, there’s an opportunity for one or even two apps to become the Facebook or Twitter of beauty booking, but right now it’s not clear which one that will be. “The pace for mobile has been a bit beyond what anyone has seen before,” aarabi said. “We’ll see consolidation in the market and there will be few apps that people will often use.” “It’s early days with this category,” mcGroarty said. “If the majority of online booking is happening on mobile browsers Network braNded coNsumer oN-demaNd and desktops, we would say at Spafinder that within three to five years that would it’s like a spafinder This is either a chain This is about streamlining it’s the Uber-ization of spa, be overtaken by mobile apps. mobile is or Yelp where you have of beauty businesses or the appointment setting beauty, fitness and yoga. growing faster than any technology and one app or one site that individual spas and salons and structuring the it’s for busy women or the young people, millennials, are willing to has a lot of different places with their own app so they experience of waiting stay-at-home mom. book anything online.” to book. can have a relationship to get a call back. While most of these companies won’t with its customers. share how many downloads they have received, industry sources estimate Zeel, an on-demand booking app that delivers examples: spafinder, examples: Drybar, examples: styleseat, examples: glamsquad, massages straight to the consumer’s door, Yelp, genbook, Lifebooker Bliss, glam & go and Vênsette, stylisted, Priv, Zeel, Beautynow, has been downloaded 100,000 times, and and schedulicity Blo Blow Dry Bar Beautified, Beauty Uber Beauty, BeautyFriend, since its launch in 2012, it has generated Booked and Vagaro styleBee and hiLovely $10 million. Priv, which includes servic- 6 WWD Friday, March 27, 2015 WWD Friday, March 27, 2015 7 WWD.COM

in san Diego and las Vegas with more locations Giving La Prairie a Boost on the horizon. beauty “a lot of men don’t oxidative stress. it also contains la want to go to a spa,” noted By Julie NaughtoN Prairie’s proprietary blend of gly- samer hamadeh, founder coproteins, horsetail and ginseng

and ceo of Zeel. la Prairie is giving antiag- extracts, which is used in nearly all Despite having been ing a boost with its newest prod- of the brand’s skin-care offerings downloaded 100,000 times, uct, anti-aging rapid response and many of its color cosmetics. Evolving the Beauty-Booking Market according to industry Booster — the latest in a series a 1.7-oz. serum will retail for sources, even Zeel will of initiatives aimed at raising the $290. in the u.s., it will be sold in es ranging from yoga to makeup, has ob- receive a Web site with online-booking secure an appointment at a location clos- need to evolve since book- brand’s global awareness. about 220 doors, including Bergdorf

By Jayme Cyk tained 50,000 downloads and has raised functionality. additionally, the platform est to the client. ing is its only functionality. the liquid-gel serum launches goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman more than $4 million in funds from ven- does follow-ups and thank-yous for the “With the launch of Beauty Pass, our to that end, hilovely, globally in april, and becomes Marcus, Nordstrom, saks Fifth BeaUTy-BOOkING aPPS are battling ture capital firms. professional’s clients. mission is to make it even easier and which is only available the 10th stockkeeping unit in la avenue and laprairie.com. While to be the last service standing on a con- aarabi noted an app is successful “On average we grow a stylist’s rev- more accessible by being the one-stop in san Francisco and the Prairie’s anti-aging Collection, executives declined to comment on sumer’s mobile phone. once it surpasses two million downloads. enue by 70 percent in the first year using solution for all of your beauty book- Bay area, has found a way noted François le gloan, president projected sales, industry sources

Not everyone wants five apps on their “There are over one million apps on our system with our business tools,” said ing needs,” said Hillary Hutcheson, co- to expand to new markets of la Prairie americas/oceania. estimated that anti-aging rapid cell to book a makeup’’ or hair service. the app store and if you look at the top- melody mcCloskey, ceo and cofounder founder of Beauty Booked, who added faster without physically While serums have been a response Booster could do $50 Like every industry, the winners will ranking ones, most have over two million of StyleSeat, whose company provides the platform is experiencing double to being there. mainstay of la Prairie’s collec- million at retail globally in its first stand out and the losers, well, they won’t downloads,” he said. “most of these on- bookings for 290,000 professionals in triple digit growth every month. “Starting Matana lePlae, found- tions addressing mature skin — se- year on counter. the u.s. business be in business. demand and beauty-booking platforms more than 15,000 cities and just hit $1 bil- next week, our members will be able to er of hilovely, who also rums account for 16 percent of the is expected to generate roughly 20

“[Beauty-booking tools] is such a hot are far from that.” lion in appointments booked. most of the experience unlimited blowouts at trust- Modiface’s Web makeover app. is the founder and ceo of brand’s overall offering at pres- percent of the total. space right now,” said maureen mullen, So what does one have to do to get booking is done for appointments in ad- ed salons anytime, anywhere across lashfully, just launched ent — this is the first in the anti- the brand is also aiming to cofounder and head of research at L2 Inc. noticed? vance, but many other companies focus New york City. and this is just the begin- to 35, predominantly female, empow- another element of hilovely called aging Collection, which targets Anti-Aging Rapid further raise its profile, particu- “But I don’t see there being six different “Whether it’s e-commerce or an app- on providing clients with immediate ser- ning.” Industry sources estimate Beauty ered working women or the stay-at- Beauty Chat. it is a one-on-one per- a thirtysomething consumer at a Response Booster. larly in the u.s. “our heritage goes beauty-booking apps [on the market].” based strategy, in order for businesses to vice, known as beauty on-demand. “We’re Booked’s Beauty Pass could generate $3 home mom. the company attempts to sonalized video chat with one of the more accessible price point, noted back to the thirties, and that’s Which explains the onslaught of beau- grow and get really big you have to have not reliant on on-demand. Our research million to $5 million in sales in its first do most services in under 30 minutes company’s beauty experts. the session elizabeth lamont, vice president of mar- not necessarily well-known,” said lamont. ty scheduling platforms popping up in a multichannel footprint,” mullen noted. shows us that on-demand is about 5 per- year as it rolls out to other markets. and that gives them an edge since is $30 for 30 minutes and clients can keting for la Prairie americas. the collec- “We’ve known the story, and sort of kept to ’’ app-land. Beth mcGroarty, research di- “Companies have to think about how cent of the [service] industry as a whole. Glamsquad, which charges $50 glamsquad can’’ take anywhere from choose from a menu that includes ser- tion is number two overall in the company ourselves. We wanted to reveal to our cus- rector at Spafinder, identified four types to be useful for consumers for more than It’s something girls want in New york for a blowout and up to $125 for an 45 to 60 minutes. vices like how to apply foundation and based on units sold, she added. tomers what our story, what our legacy is, to of booking apps where the majority fo- just beauty booking,” aarabi said. “For or maybe in Los angeles with a certain updo, raised $7 million in funds led by “on-demand seems like it’s going to concealer or contouring. the new product is intended to deliver give a framework for the products that we cuses solely on taking reservations: example, offer them the chance to try level of income, but the average woman, SoftBank Capital with minority partici- be a viable model for the 25 to 35 urban But who has time for that, when peptides via a targeted capsule delivery bring to market.” that will happen through person, mom, cannot do that or doesn’t pation from Lerer Ventures, aOL’s BBG market,” Mcgroarty said. “the problem consumers are already so busy? system, said to deliver benefits directly to bold new visuals that salute the brand’s his- have a house where she feels comfort- Fund and montage Ventures. The on-de- is the fragmentation, and i’m not so “My hypothesis is that most peo- the cells, which produce collagen and elas- tory, ads that call out and explain product able with that.” mand app has expanded to three markets sure how they will do in the suburbs.” ple will want to do it in the evenings. tin. “over the course of two weeks, the ap- benefits in a more comprehensive way, digi- We’ll see consolidation in the market and there most of these companies deliver ser- — New york, Los angeles and miami — Vênsette, which is focused on in this format, we’re able to reach a pearance of wrinkles and long lines seem tal initiatives and continuing to update the vices — like blowouts and makeovers— and it’s looking to extend its offering and high-end hair and makeup services, broader audience of women in their to erase, showing dramatic visible improve- brand’s Web site, giving customers “more of will be few apps that people will often use. but StyleSeat, which has raised more sell products on the app. targets women 28 to 65 looking for 30s, 40s and 50s who want to [learn dif- ment on the skin,” said andrea Ford, direc- a reason to believe.” than $14 million from investors, has cre- “We’re not a marketplace,” said a daily blowout or makeup for big ferent applications] but are intimidat- tor of global education for la Prairie. Key the brand is also launching a new tagline — Parham aarabi, modiface ated a multidimensional business provid- alexandra Wilkis Wilson, Glamsquad’s events. on Vênsette, clients can book ed,” said lePlae, who added [Beauty ingredients include anti-Wrinkle Peptide — “Who but la Prairie would go to the ends ing services, bookings and a platform for ceo, who added the company books 1,500 either online or on its app, and be- Chat] is more accessible and gets it (Copper Palmitoyl heptapeptide-14), the en- of the earth to bring you back the most pre- stylists to grow their business. appointments a week and more than cause bookings can be done on two to Detroit before it gets hilovely to capsulated peptide, said to plump from with- cious resource of all: time.” the brand’s new StyleSeat stands out, but there are a 30,000 appointments since it launched in different platforms, the company is Detroit in services. “the difference in; skin Cell energizer (Methyl-glucoside- signature statement will be on all materials, n Network: “It’s like a Spafinder or yelp on beauty products or try on hairstyles. few others driving the market. January 2014. “The app is a tool.” 6-Phosphate), said to improve skin barrier including the Web site, brochures, advertising where you have one app or one site that Selfies are popular; people love taking Beauty Booked, whose technology pow- Priv, whose extensive menu of services protection in mature skin, and silver vine and other collateral, said lamont. National has a lot of different places to book.” photos, engaging that interest makes the ers salon- and spa-booking functionality consists of yoga instructors, masseuses, extract, said to improve skin’s translucency advertising for the new serum appears in n Branded: “This is either a chain of app more viral and more popular. Other on allure.com, works both on-demand spray-tanning specialists, hairstylists and On-demand seems like it’s going to be a and brightness by reducing the impact of april fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. beauty businesses or individual spas and things are sample recommendations. and off. The app, which lets consumers manicurists, is rooted in personalization. salons with their own app so companies We’ve seen beauty advisers say, ‘Based book salon and spa appointments under Clients can choose their stylist based on can have a relationship with their cus- on your complexion or your hair color, one umbrella, recently added a new ele- reviews and an image of the professional. viable model for the 25 to 35 urban market. tomers. For example, Drybar or Bliss.” we would recommend you try out this ment called Beauty Pass. The component “We’re not seeing [much] crossover in new n Consumer: “This is about streamlining hairstyle or this product.’ The more of lets consumers sign up for a subscription services,” said morris Sutton, cofounder The problem is the fragmentation, and I’m Dimmick Launches GlossiGirl the appointment setting and structuring these elements, the easier it becomes for service that allows for unlimited beauty and co-ceo of Priv, noting the business 2014, he was working on a namesake line the experience of waiting to get a call people to find the app and be stuck to it.” services. Clients can get deals on un- is growing double digits every month. not so sure how they will do in the suburbs. By raChel BroWN that had expanded to some 150 stockkeeping back. This would include Schedulicity StyleSeat unveiled an app compo- limited blowouts for $99 a month. In the “We’re seeing tremendous customer loy- units. then, Dimmick’s husband, Jonathan or StyleSeat.” nent to its online booking’’ platform six future, the company will add unlimited alty in the same service. One thing we’re MaKeuP artist stephen Dimmick south, chief executive officer of glossigirl, — Beth McGroarty, Spafinder n On-Demand: “It’s the Uber-ization months ago and already 60 percent of manicures, spa treatments, spray tans and doing, which allows us to scale out much thinks women of a certain age shouldn’t was diagnosed with cancer. “When he start- of spa, beauty, fitness and yoga. It’s for bookings stem from mobile. The com- more. Beauty Pass will also offer last-min- faster, we’re offering agents our platform have to stick to certain makeup. ed to get better, he said, ‘Do you want to do busy women or the stay-at-home mom. pany also offers a solution for beauty ute blowouts where consumers can book to build their business.” “the women who follow me on social this again and start really small?’ i said ‘oK.’ The things that you would book on de- professionals to grow their business. up to 15 minutes before their desired ap- But its consumer base isn’t widely growing 400 percent year-over-year, between Youtube [beauty vloggers and media are between 28 and 55. they are Before it was hard work, and it felt hard. mand are not personal, [because it’s a Stylists can sign up for StyleSeat and pointment time and the BB concierge will diverse. Priv’s core demographic is 25 the number of clients doubled in the Beauty Chat] is that on Beauty Chat you strong, powerful women, and no one is ca- Now, it is hard work, and it feels effortless.” last minute appointment or a quick-fix fourth quarter of 2014 and the com- are live with somebody and you can say tering to them, saying, ‘i get that you still Dimmick believes lipstick is a safe bet model].” examples of these include Priv pany has a total reach of 100,000 sub- no or the expert can say you did that want to be sassy or sometimes you’d like for a woman purchasing cosmetics, and and Glamsquad. scribers in four markets. wrong, move your arm this way.” to be goddamn sexy,’” he said. “No one he will continue on the lipstick theme for Vênsette, Priv, Stylisted, Glamsquad, similarly, stylisted, which is locat- other companies aren’t only look- seems to be hitting that arena in the mar- a bit with several nude shades coming out StyleSeat, Zeel, HiLovely, Beautified, ed in Chicago, all five boroughs in New ing to make it easier for consumers, ket. that is where i’m entrenched.” next and, after that, he will delve into shad- Blownaway, BeautyNow, Uber Beauty, The Booking sTaTion York City and los angeles, is focused but are hoping to create more jobs. launching this month with six lipsticks ows. “it is going to be a full line. there is no BeautyFriend, StyleBee, Beauty Booked, there are so maNy beauty-bookiNg apps that they’ve Naturally falleN iNto four categories. on booking for special events. like smoot Carter, ceo of Blownaway, priced at $19 each, Dimmick’s makeup brand question about that,” said Dimmick. Vagaro, Schedulicity — the competition Priv, the client can handpick their styl- which is an on-demand app for blow- glossigirl is intended to give women the tools industry sources estimate the brand will is fierce, and the range of models share ist, although stylisted doesn’t position outs, was an uber driver before found- to try makeup they might otherwise skip. For generate $250,000 to $300,000 in first-year re- similar visions of delivering quality when itself as on-demand. ing his company. example, Dimmick’s followers — he has tail sales. to get the brand off the ground, and where consumers want it. “the special events [for clients] “Driving 2,500 uber ’’rides instilled nearly 20,000 on twitter — are interested Dimmick will promote glossigirl according to Parham aarabi, chief tend to occur once a month or every in me a real excitement about on- in matte lipstick, but haven’t found one on twitter, Facebook, snapchat and executive officer of modiface, there’s other month, that’s who we’re going demand tech, logistics and demand tailored to them. glossigirl’s instagram. he has been actively amass- an opportunity for one or even two apps after,” said Julia Carmona, stylisted’s response,” Carter said. “i invested in bold red shade Poison apple ing an audience via social media for to become the Facebook or Twitter of chief operating officer. “stylisted is re- on-demand tech because the utiliza- could be their entrée into the about four years, giving women make- beauty booking, but right now it’s not ally born from our personal pain point tion of excess capacity creates jobs for matte menagerie. up tips and sharing his personal expe- clear which one that will be. “The pace of not wanting to trust a complete contractors in our communities and “i love the idea of those riences on various platforms. for mobile has been a bit beyond what stranger with our hair or makeup.” our team has been inspired firsthand really dry, crunchy liquid “Women really respond to the anyone has seen before,” aarabi said. according to Mcgroarty, Zeel is by the stories of how this has bettered lips that all those young lines honesty of the good stuff and the ugly “We’ll see consolidation in the market having big success in the spa space. our contractors’ lives.” have. Most women might like stuff,” said Dimmick. “i talk about and there will be few apps that people “that’s a fascinating model because “an app is an amazing opportunity the idea of it, but they really my suicide attempt as a teenager. will often use.” massages can be very relaxing at for businesses because it’s a way to don’t like it because it doesn’t i talk about being a prosti- “It’s early days with this category,” home,” she noted. communicate with customers that’s feel good,” said Dimmick. “i tute and being raped by mcGroarty said. “If the majority of online there aren’t many on-demand really personalized and relevant,” wanted it [Poison apple] to an uncle. i’m not a victim booking is happening on mobile browsers Network braNded coNsumer oN-demaNd massage players, so Zeel found white Mcgroarty said. “But that’s the chal- be matte, but not Nineties to it. i didn’t just survive, and desktops, we would say at Spafinder space in a market inundated with lenge because a lot of apps replicate matte or liquid matte. i i thrived, and that’s that within three to five years that would it’s like a spafinder This is either a chain This is about streamlining it’s the Uber-ization of spa, hair and makeup services. Zeel’s de- their Web site and let you book. if went with more of a matte what women pick up.” be overtaken by mobile apps. mobile is or Yelp where you have of beauty businesses or the appointment setting beauty, fitness and yoga. mographic is split evenly between that’s the case, they just get deleted.” satin. so, it has a creamy outside of social one app or one site that individual spas and salons and structuring the it’s for busy women or the growing faster than any technology and males and females and it is available “there are a lot of things about emollience to it.” GlossiGirl’s Max’d Out lipstick. media, Dimmick, an young people, millennials, are willing to has a lot of different places with their own app so they experience of waiting stay-at-home mom. in the New York City metro area, in- app optimization: what keywords Cream lipsticks consti- australian who relo- book anything online.” to book. can have a relationship to get a call back. cluding Bergen County, N.J.; Fairfield you put in, the design of the app, the tute the remainder of Dimmick’s initial cated to New York in 1997 prior to settling While most of these companies won’t with its customers. County, Conn.; Westchester, long video you make for the app and the assortment. among the cream shades are in los angeles three years ago, is recog- share how many downloads they have island; the hamptons; south Florida, way you actually launch your app. Pinky, a pink that’s simultaneously light nized for vivid color and highlighting in received, industry sources estimate Zeel, from Miami Beach to Palm Beach; one of the things we found to be suc- and bright, and sassy, an everyday red. editorial beauty looks such as those he cre- an on-demand booking app that delivers examples: spafinder, examples: Drybar, examples: styleseat, examples: glamsquad, the san Francisco Bay area; silicon cessful is really building a grass roots the lipsticks were formulated to be highly ated for Vogue italia, time, harper’s Bazaar massages straight to the consumer’s door, Yelp, genbook, Lifebooker Bliss, glam & go and Vênsette, stylisted, Priv, Zeel, Beautynow, Valley, and southern California, in- relationship with people [before pigmented, while hydrating and buildable. australia and Marie Claire. his roster of ce- has been downloaded 100,000 times, and and schedulicity Blo Blow Dry Bar Beautified, Beauty Uber Beauty, BeautyFriend, cluding the greater los angeles area, launching],” aarabi said. “Because Dimmick didn’t originally set out to focus lebrity clientele has included Cate Blanchett, since its launch in 2012, it has generated Booked and Vagaro styleBee and hiLovely Ventura County, orange County and when it comes to mobile, second on lipsticks. glossigirl is his second shot at Khloé Kardashian, Kourtney Kardashian, $10 million. Priv, which includes servic- Palm springs. soon, Zeel will launch chances aren’t available.” developing a makeup brand. in 2013 and Nina Dobrev and Vanessa hudgens. 2.5x7 (right)

8 WWD Friday, March 27, 2015 beauty Fusion Brands America Inc. Refocuses Chinese Shoppers Savvier Than Ever well off from the estimated volume of in men,” Black added. clean is currently By Faye BRookman $100 million generated in 2007. Black is sold at Sephora, including the units in confident the right strategies are in mo- J.c. penney, as well as select indepen- FuSIon BRanDS ameRIca Inc. has tion. “There’s a lot of low-hanging fruit,” dent beauty boutiques and specialty weathered management changes, a mis- he said, adding retailers are receptive to home stores. fired fragrance launch and legal skir- the plan. The rebirth starts with clean. with an eye on transforming clean mishes. now the company, which has when introduced in 2003, clean struck a into a lifestyle brand and opening more spent the last few years retooling, hopes chord with women looking for the anti- doors, Fusion introduced home products to restore its two marquee franchises — celebrity “nonfragrance” fragrance. “In late in 2014 including candles, diffusers, clean fragrances and Fusion Beauty — to some ways it was ahead of its time,” he room spray, soap and lotions based on their former cult status. explained, noting that trend is now gain- clean scents. The prices range from $28 lipFusion, for example, was one of ing steam in not only the u.S. but in the for a room diffuser to $40 for a candle. the industry’s first lip plumpers and 30 countries where clean is sold. The Fusion beauty collection has un- helped create an entirely new category To build upon that, Fusion is promot- dergone more extensive tweaking, editing with a devout fan base. ing the concept of fragrance layering the broad array of color items to center on An assortment of Clean fragrances. with a focus on fragrance, eye and lip, with an entry called clean air, which eyes and lips. about 75 percent of sales and a management team stewarded by in- can be worn alone or in tandem with ex- of Fusion Beauty are generated by the dustry veteran Gregory Black, Fusion is isting scents. The company is also tout- lipFusion and lashFusion properties, ac- a new kit designed to help women un- expanding its clean franchise and capi- ing mixing of the other existing scents cording to Black. To distinguish its range derstand and sample lash and brow talizing on its results-oriented cosmet- for custom blends. a new fragrance from similarly priced brands such as Dior items. The StimulashFusion lash+Brow ics. “we’ve put together a team created called Summer Sun will join the fam- and chanel, Fusion harnesses science to Transformation Set features about a for profitable and sustainable growth,” ily in the next few months. also new for create transformation products such as month’s supply of the night conditioning said Black, who joined Fusion four years women are two promotional sets — a StimulashFusion, a night conditioning lash enhancer, lengthening mascara, a ago and ascended to the title of executive five-piece roller-ball trial size grouping enhancer treatment with peptides said to long-wear liquid eyeliner and a grooming vice president and general manager in with clean’s warm cotton, cool cotton, thicken, strengthen and accelerate natu- and enhancing brow gel. “There’s step-by- 2013. “we’re rebuilding with brands that air, white woods and Skin priced at $18 ral lash enhancement within six weeks, as step instructions and it is great for trav- are relevant for today’s beauty business.” — and a layering set with warm cotton, well as the signature lipFusion. el,” said Fitz of the kit, which retails for Industry sources estimate Fusion, air and Shower Fresh retailing for $65. while Fusion might be known for $65. Fitz thinks lips will gain traction this which was acquired by canadian entre- There are also two men’s fragrances plumping or enhancing, the brand prom- year. “It was angelina’s [Jolie] lips that preneur eugene melnyk in 2007 from — clean for men Shower Fresh, which ises to stay on trend, noted Greta Fitz, people wanted originally with lipFusion,” founder Randi Shinder, still maintains launched in 2007, and a new clean for Fusion’s director of global marketing. she said. “now it is kylie Jenner’s.” global sales exceeding $50 million de- men classic, which was introduced in Fueled by america’s obsession with Fusion offers an assortment of lip plump- spite a few years of challenges, but is still January. “we will expand the footprint brows à la cara Delevingne, Fusion has ers ranging in price from $29 to $57.

Lindsay Ellingson

Victoria’s Secret Model Nudestix Goes Neutral With Line Launches Beauty Brand By Rachel BRown stick or blush,’’ you see a color swatch no-makeup makeup has a brand to By Jayme cyk and lindsay being blonde, me being call its very own: nudestix. Indian, we can’t tell what that looks like created by beauty industry veteran when DIVya GuGnanI met lindsay on our face.” Jenny Frankel with her teenage daugh- ellingson at a salon opening last year, The cofounders have established an ters ally and Taylor, nudestix is bank- she had no idea she was a model. uncommon method of enticing consumers ing on the unassuming aesthetic signal- little did she know the 5-foot, 10-inch to buy beauty online. ellingson cast six ing a generational shift in beauty habits blonde bombshell would soon be her part- models with a range of skin tones to dis- rather than being a fleeting runway fad. ner in a new venture to be sold on QVc, play how the makeup will appear on each. Retailers are buying into that called wander Beauty, a color cosmetics meanwhile, to promote the line with- premise: The brand will pre- line inspired by ellingson’s travels. out showing the product, ellingson miere in may on QVc after “I’ve been modeling for 10 years,” said has been teasing the launch with tips making its debut at Space nk the Victoria’s Secret model. “In that time and tricks on her social media ac- in the u.k. last may and en- I’ve picked up so many tips and tricks counts. also, the company is utilizing tering Sephora in September. about how to apply makeup, what works, ellingson’s Instagram, which boasts nudestix crystallized dur- what doesn’t, colors and formula- ing a two-year break Frankel tions. I was absorbing so much in- took from the beauty busi- formation and developed this pas- ness following private eq- sion for beauty.” [Wander Beauty] uity firm catterton partners’ That passion even led her to do 2011 purchase of coverFX, her own makeup for events, but is for the woman in a the brand Frankel cofound- she doesn’t claim to be an artist. ichner ed in 2000, to decompress “[wander Beauty] is for the e and spend time with ally woman in a cab doing her make- cab doing her makeup. and Taylor. “They were my up,” noted ellingson. “you carry sources of inspiration,” she around your makeup because — Lindsay ELLingson, said. “They have no inter- you’re constantly going to meet- WandEr BEauty Steve photoS by est in being makeup artists ings and doing touch-ups.” and using tools. They have Gugnani added, “women put more than 600,000 followers, by having different throughout the year. The on- no interest in precision lines their makeup on themselves and her fans vote on their favorite shades. the-Glow Blush & highlighter Duo or in spending more than 5 this is all about the DIyer.” Wander Beauty The two shades with the most votes are Stick will be sold on QVc and Qvc.com minutes. They would rather In mid-april ellingson will ap- On-the-Glow Blush & going to be produced. for $35 and on wanderbeauty.com for scroll Instagram.” pear on QVc to launch wander Highlighter Duo Stick “we’re letting our followers have $42 starting april 13. Taylor and ally were an Beauty’s first product, on-the- input,” ellingson said. “I want to contin- while Gugnani wouldn’t talk finan- in-house focus group for Glow Blush & highlighter Duo ue doing that with other products.” cials, industry sources estimate that the Frankel. here are the in- Stick. The multitasking illumi- In September, the company will on-the-Glow Blush & highlighter Duo sights Taylor gave her mother nator consists of cream blush on launch a capsule collection that is city- Stick could do $5 million to $7 million at on the beauty preferences of members of one side and a highlighter on the inspired. Future collections will be retail in its first year. the millennial and Z generations or, in other. available in two shades, themed on countries that ellingson has “In addition to appreciating the quali- other words, her peers: “For my friends Soft pink/nude Glow and coral visited. “each product is inspired by a ty of wander Beauty products, we believe and me, brushes were extremely intimi- Rose/nude Glow, it contains anti- certain country or something I learned our customer will respond to lindsay’s dating. none of my friends know how to oxidants and vitamins a, c and e. whether it be from Spain, South africa or creativity, passion and sincerity,” said use them. we couldn’t do a smoky eye to “we decided that we were re- ’’ India,” she said. ellen lennon, QVc’s director of beauty save our lives. we wanted to look like our- ally passionate about a multieth- The capsule collection will consist merchandising. “as evidenced by her selves, only better. even going to school, nic approach to beauty,” Gugnani of four stockkeeping units including incredible social media following, she we didn’t want to look like we had a lot on. said. “when you go to a web site a face foundation that contains two knows how to engage the customer in a we want to look effortless and like we just right now to buy a shade of lip- shades since consumer’s skin is often meaningful and relevant way.” got out of bed. It’s that barely there, nude-

2.5x7 (right)

WWD Friday, March 27, 2015 9 WWD.COM Chinese Shoppers’’ Savvier Than Ever Though these numbers are already gy, so they would expect technology from “many local governments are jealous By caSey hall substantial, they are only expected to travel retailers,” mohn said. of the duty-free outlets being opened in rise over the coming five years. “If there was a way travelers could in- hainan, and I would expect other duty- ShanGhaI — The evolving nature of the “emerging asia continues to grow at form themselves using their smartphone free centers to open in other places chinese consumer and the importance of three times the pace of developed econo- at the airport of price advantages or spe- around china, particularly in border re- technology were major themes of the Tax mies. Do not have china fatigue or asia cialized gifting services, that could be a gions,” she said. Free world association china’s century fatigue; there is still a long period of focus of improvement.” The new Beijing Daxing International conference, held here earlier this month. growth ahead,” said conference keynote Though much has been made in re- airport, which is due to open in 2018 and is The three-day conference was attended speaker haiyan wang, managing partner cent years of the importance of interna- expected to handle 70 million passengers by hundreds of delegates from china and at the china India Institute. tional traveling chinese consumers and annually by 2025, also will present a major around the world, including representa- according to research by m1nd-set, the opportunities they present, as the opportunity for tax-free retailers, capital tives from international luxury brands such airport holding company vice-general as calvin klein, chanel, Bally and Furla. manager Gao Shiqing told the conference. For TFwa president erik Juul- Beyond china’s well-trodden eastern mortensen, the conference’s main points Do not have China fatigue or Asia fatigue; seaboard are other fast-growing centers, included catering to the changing needs such as chongqing in the country’s west, of chinese consumers with more unique there is still a long period of growth ahead. where a new terminal is due to open in a new kit designed to help women un- and bespoke offerings and investing in 2016, bringing the total passenger capac- derstand and sample lash and brow technologically savvy marketing and pro- — Haiyan Wang, CHina india institute ity at its international airport to 45 mil- items. The StimulashFusion lash+Brow motional activities. lion people annually. Transformation Set features about a “The growing importance of expe- undertaken on behalf of the asia pacific chinese government increasingly pushes commercial management depart- month’s supply of the night conditioning rience, the individualization of the Travel Retail association and presented domestic consumption, it makes sense ment head for chongqing airport Group, lash enhancer, lengthening mascara, a chinese consumer, their growing so- at the conference by m1nd-set chief ex- for the travel retail industry to also look yali Gao, spoke about opportunities in long-wear liquid eyeliner and a grooming phistication and focus on quality in both ecutive officer peter mohn, more than at ways in which it can expand its pres- china’s largest inland city, which has a and enhancing brow gel. “There’s step-by- products and customer service, as well as two-thirds of chinese duty-free shoppers ence within china. population of 33 million people. step instructions and it is great for trav- the need for an online presence to com- surveyed said they were influenced in In 2014, china Duty Free Group opened “we designed the display to have an em- el,” said Fitz of the kit, which retails for plement, but not replace, the traditional their purchasing decisions by interac- a 45-thousand-square-meter (484,375 phasis on international luxury brands and $65. Fitz thinks lips will gain traction this retail model. These are all important for tions with sales staff on the ground. square feet) duty-free store as the world’s have introduced some light [affordable] lux- year. “It was angelina’s [Jolie] lips that our industry,” he said. having said this, speakers were also largest, in china’s hainan province. ury brands as well as some domestic brands people wanted originally with lipFusion,” There’s little doubt that the chinese at pains to emphasize that social media, The island holiday destination has to push sales,” Gao said of their strategy. she said. “now it is kylie Jenner’s.” consumer is a vital part of the international and the utilization of major chinese so- been identified by the chinese gov- “In the past, travelers would buy local Fusion offers an assortment of lip plump- tax-free and travel retail sectors, with 2014 cial media platforms, such as wechat, is ernment as a haven for tax-free shop- specialty foods, and that would be it, ers ranging in price from $29 to $57. seeing the wider world inundated with a good way to supplement those old-fash- ping within the country’’ and wang said but with rising incomes, passengers buy more than 100 million outbound chinese ioned, basic retail precepts. she wouldn’t be surprised to see other more branded products — more recently, travelers who spent $165 billion, according “I do think the international travelers chinese destinations also become duty- unique and individualized brands are be- to chinese government estimates. are more advanced regarding technolo- free shopping meccas in the future. coming more favored.” Nudestix Goes Neutral With Line but-better look.” ally and Taylor embody By Rachel BRown the lifestyle nudestix conveys. ally is in WWD PRINT SUBCRIBERS: charge of the brand’s Twitter account, and no-makeup makeup has a brand to Taylor reigns over Instagram. call its very own: nudestix. nudestix delivers that simple look PLEASE GIVE US YOUR created by beauty industry veteran with simple products: The makeup Jenny Frankel with her teenage daugh- comes in pencils or pens, and every item EMAIL ADDRESS ters ally and Taylor, nudestix is bank- is priced at $24. ing on the unassuming aesthetic signal- Bestsellers in the assortment of 41 ing a generational shift in beauty habits stockkeeping units heavy on neutral DON’T MISS OUT ON THE rather than being a fleeting runway fad. shades are the lip/cheek pencil, the Retailers are buying into that concealer pencil and mag- NEW DAILY DIGITAL EDITION! premise: The brand will pre- netic eye color. even skin miere in may on QVc after care, which arrives this making its debut at Space nk month, will be housed in the u.k. last may and en- in pencils. Bronzers will On April 29, the print edition of WWD will re-launch in a tering Sephora in September. be introduced in pen- nudestix crystallized dur- cil form in may. “In most weekly glossy format. The final edition of the daily newspaper ing a two-year break Frankel brands, you have an 80/20 took from the beauty busi- rule where the neutrals in its current format will be on April 24, 2015. ness following private eq- make up 80 percent [of the uity firm catterton partners’ sales]. Because we are all 2011 purchase of coverFX, neutrals, the rule doesn’t the brand Frankel cofound- apply,” said Frankel. Beginning with the April 27th issue, we’ll produce a curated

ichner ed in 2000, to decompress ellen lennon, QVc’s di- e and spend time with ally rector of beauty merchan- Daily Digital edition of WWD that will reflect the top stories and Taylor. “They were my dising, is bullish on the no- sources of inspiration,” she fuss brand. She said, “we of the day. It will be emailed to you before you wake up each said. “They have no interest were drawn to nudestix

photoS by Steve photoS by in being makeup artists and because of the minimalis- using tools. They have no in- tic approach of the brand business day! terest in precision lines or and the easy-to-use nature in spending more than five of its products. we believe minutes. They would rather the concept that women scroll Instagram.” don’t need a lot of makeup In order to ensure that you receive the Daily Digital, Taylor and ally were an to look their best will reso- in-house focus group for nate with our customers, please go to wwd-email.com or call 1-866-401-7801 Frankel. here are the in- Nudestix items. and they’ll realize a little sights Taylor gave her mother bit of color in the right to provide or update your email address. on the beauty preferences of members of places can highlight their best features the millennial and Z generations or, in to give a natural look.” other words, her peers: “For my friends Industry sources estimate nudestix and me, brushes were extremely intimi- will generate in excess of $5 million at dating. none of my friends know how to retail this year. aside from QVc, Space use them. we couldn’t do a smoky eye to nk and Sephora in the u.S. and canada, save our lives. we wanted to look like our- where nudestix is based in Toronto, the selves, only better. even going to school, brand’s distribution includes or will soon we didn’t want to look like we had a lot on. include urban outfitters, anthropologie, we want to look effortless and like we just forever21.com, the hut Group’s online got out of bed. It’s that barely there, nude- properties and Sephora in australia.

WWD_QuarterPgAd3.indd 1 3/23/15 4:40 PM

2.5x7 (right)

10 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 27, 2015 Sabisha and Jessica Stam, 2007. Evangelista, Cindy’’ Crawford and a few other top-shelf models in motorcycle jackets, biker boots and miniskirts and shot them in the then-barren back streets beneath the Manhattan Bridge for creating an image known as “The Wild Ones.” “Nobody lived there,” he says of Dumbo in 1991. “There was not one single shop. I really felt like I was the fi rst person in the world to shoot there. There were only big rats running all over the streets.” The photographer laughed at the suggestion his insightfulness would have served him well in real estate. “Oh no, those guys are much more clever than I am,” he says. Every picture is a portrait. From my very old standpoint, I think everything you do should have a YUKIE MIYAZAKI PHOTOS BY meaning. — PETER LINDBERGH Tales of Tokyo ALL PHOTOS BY PETER LINDBERGH © PETER LINDBERGH/COURTESY SCHIRMER/MOSEL PETER LINDBERGH © PETER LINDBERGH/COURTESY ALL PHOTOS BY

In all seriousness, he FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE is engrossed in fi lming “Testament,” a series of silent WWD.com/eye. 35-minute shorts featuring death-row inmates. After reading 400 cases and learning that death-row inmates average 20 years In Peter Lindbergh’s portraits of women of incarceration and are guaranteed I see a search for the truth: nothing three appeals, Lindbergh started the more and nothing less.” project, despite clashing with his “very Lindbergh offers another take: “I did intelligent” lawyer of 25 years. “He said, a portrait of his wife, Donata, that is in ‘How can you defend these’’ people?’ Lucky Lindy the book and Wim more or less said [in I told him, ‘What you don’t know is the foreword], ‘I love my wife more than they are victims, too,’” says Lindbergh, PETER LINDBERGH IS having a That said, Lindbergh has earned anything else in the world but she never referring to the violence and abuse some moment of truth, although not in the his keep for decades shooting a good looked at me like that. How does he do it?’” experience. “He didn’t buy it from me. existentialist way. amount of fashion with a discerning Moss, along with Moore, Cara Delevingne, He thinks I will make stars out of them.” At age 70, the photographer is eye. “Fashion photography should Jessica Stam, Sofi a Coppola, Reese Going rogue is something he has done bombarded with assignments and special say something about the stability of a Witherspoon, Nicole Kidman and 75 others, since his days at Berlin’s Academy of projects, not that he has ever been a certain time you live in or what kind of are featured in the tome. Uma Thurman was the Arts, when he balked at a teacher’s loafer, but even he sounded puzzled by women you like. The most interesting so pleased that he chose a shot of her for the insistence that nature-drawing classes the recent pace. Tonight he will be at thing is not what they’re wearing but book’s cover that she offered to host tonight’s were mandatory to becoming an artist. New York’s Gagosian gallery for a party who they are. It’s important to do party. Lindbergh says he is so constantly Instead, he hitchhiked to Arles, France, in honor of his newest book “Images of pictures that defi ne women and not in love with Robin Wright that she landed retracing the route of Vincent van Gogh to Women II 2005-2014.” Numerous A-lister show some girl rummaging around in six or seven portraits in the fi rst 20 pages spend eight months studying the painterly laden ad campaigns, collateral for next the garbage with high heels and fake alone. A Diane von Furstenberg portrait was light and landscape the Impressionist week’s opening of the Jean Paul Gaultier boobies to show a product. another favorite. He says, “I just love her. I made his signature. In the decades since, exhibition in Paris, a major museum “I guess I have this image so that at have no idea how old she is — 60 or 70? You he has owned a “little old mas from the exhibition at Kunsthal Rotterdam next least the people I photograph look the way look at this photograph and you see the fi re 1770s — nothing chic, very rough,”and has year, a fi lm series about death-row inmates and an Italian Vogue shoot (“the best kind — lots of pages and nobody tells you what to do”) are all in the works. Reached in his Paris studio, eye Lindbergh pretty much lives on Air France as its third-highest frequent fl ier. “Of the whole airline,” he booms. “I want to know who the other two are.” Recognizable for his purist style, Lindbergh seems to be prospering during the current backlash against excessive airbrushing and Photoshopping. “For me, every picture is a portrait — no matter what I’m doing. From my very old standpoint, I think everything you do should have a meaning,” he says. “The idea [that] it doesn’t is unacceptable to me. A lot of mainstream photographers seem not to think about what they’re doing or feel any responsibility toward anything. And by the time they’re done, the models don’t have any trace of themselves left. This thing Kate Moss, 2007 and Uma Thurman, 2011. about looking young with no wrinkles or expression is all so boring really.” they look. I guess that gets me a lot of work and beauty in her eyes. Now there is this helped to till the area’s artistic groundwork. In the next month or so, his one- at the moment,” Lindbergh says. “These whole terror about getting old. Today that More creative types will soon be fl ocking, minute Lancôme fi lms featuring Cate days, photographers have expensive fascination with youth is overrated. What’s thanks to his friend Maja Hoffmann, who Blanchett, Lupita Nyong’o, Penelope contracts with actresses, but then the so special about being young? I just say that has ponied up $131 million for a Frank Cruz and Lily Collins will be released, as actresses have to have their names written because I’m old.” Gehry-designed Arts Resource Center for well as L’Oréal ones featuring Julianne in the column because nobody recognizes His convictions have sort of been her LUMA Foundation’s 20-acre site. “Arles Moore, Inès de la Fressange and others. them. That’s kind of strange.” cemented in his work. He says somewhat has become this really amazing place for Having just shot Robert Pattinson for In the book’s forward, his fi lmmaker facetiously, “There is that 90-year-old artists. I can imagine someday when nobody the new Dior Homme Parfum campaign, friend Wim Wenders described story about how Alexander Liberman wants to work with me, I can fi nd myself Charlize Theron for J’adore Dior and standing recently for a good 10 minutes asked me, ‘Why can’t you shoot for living there,” he says. “If I stand on the roof, Michelle Williams for Louis Vuitton, enthralled by a 1994 shot of Kate Moss American Vogue’ and I told him, ‘I can’t I see nothing but nature because the house Lindbergh said he doesn’t fi t the designer due to its “truthfulness. I certainly don’t shoot the women you like to use in your overlooks a nature conservancy. Sometimes mold, “I look more like a plumber, when use the concept frivolously, and, if I stop magazine’” wearing what they wear. we have to yell at the birds to shut up.” you see me. Fashion is not my thing.” to think about it, I hardly use it at all…. So Lindbergh suited up Linda — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG 2.5x7 (right)

WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 27, 2015 11 WWD.COM

In order to accomplish that, it will tap Imogen Poots, Hailee Steinfeld and Mia Goth. into its network of more than 30 global MEMO PAD bureaus to help churn out content. It will also begin staffi ng up. The rapidly SUNNY SIDE UP: Marion Cotillard, hair swept growing company currently employs into a small quiff, is pictured in a fi eld about 400 people, and it anticipates hiring of gigantic solar panels for the latest 525 new employees in the next fi ve years. installment of the Lady Dior campaign, That hiring spree will likely take shape slated to break next week in Le Figaro, later this year when Vice moves to its followed by an array of U.K. titles 60,000-square-foot offi ce, which is a brisk including Harper’s Bazaar, Tatler and walk from its current, more centrally Marie Claire. Town & Country follows located headquarters in Williamsburg. on April 14. Peter Lindbergh shot the ads, As part of the HBO deal, Vice’s weekly with a making-of fi lm realized by Eliott series has been renewed for four more Bliss to debut on Diormag.com on April years, and it will increase its program 8. The futuristic desert setting features from 14 episodes to 35 episodes a year. one old-school prop: a pay phone. Vice will also produce 32 specials for — MILES SOCHA HBO through 2018. One example of such is its 40-minute “Killing Cancer” special report, which aired last month. All of this will soon be able to be viewed on a Vice-branded channel on the HBO Now streaming service for HBO subscribers. HBO declined to reveal the fi nancial terms of the deal, which signifi es a continued push in documentaries, or PHOTOS BY YUKIE MIYAZAKI PHOTOS BY Vice’s allotted budget, but Vice’s chief executive offi cer Shane Smith hinted at its signifi cance. “This deal, simply put, allows Vice the freedom to go after any story, anywhere we fi nd it — and Tales of Tokyo Marion Cotillard in the latest Lady Dior to do so with complete independence. campaign photographed by Peter Lindbergh. This deal is a tremendous gift and a “CIAO, I’M MIUCCIA, nice to meet you,” which are just starting to bloom. “I will tremendous opportunity, and we at Miuccia Prada said to Marine Vacth as the stay until Sunday, hoping for spring VICE GRIP: Vice Media is continuing to Vice realize this,” Smith said. French actress made her way through blossoms,” he said. “This week is a bit of expand — this time with HBO. He expounded on the perils of rapid the crowd at the opening of Miu Miu’s relaxing time.” The Brooklyn-based media company expansion — something Vice is in the new Herzog & De Meuron-designed The young actresses were also eager said Thursday that it inked a four-year process of doing since it received an flagship store in Tokyo’s Aoyama to share their enthusiasm for Japan, extension of its existing deal with the infusion of $500 million from minority district. Prada and her husband, the with varying levels of experience in the cable channel, and that as part of the investors in the fall, by adding: “I think company’s chief executive officer Patrizio country. deal, it will up its current programming the fi rst thing, perhaps the hardest Bertelli, feted the store Thursday evening Poots and Goth both made their fi rst- and add a daily newscast. That newscast thing, I learned about journalism over along with a roster ever trips to Tokyo for will consist of fi ve half-hour shows a the past 20 years is that maintaining of Miu Miu campaign Miuccia Prada the show. week, 48 weeks a year, and feature any type of independence, any type of girls past and present “We’ve literally “original on-the-ground reporting,” but freedom, is diffi cult as you scale up.” ’’ — namely Imogen Poots, done everything…we in a daily format, the company said. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Stacy Martin, Hailee went to this museum Steinfeld, Mia Goth and and saw old bones and Vacth — as well as taxidermy. We’ve eaten Zhang Ziyi and Rinko a lot of sushi. We’ve Kikuchi. Comme des been walking around. Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo We’ve been going and Adrian Joffe popped behind the things in on the early side we’re not meant to go — before most of the behind,” said Poots. other guests arrived, The famed Prada gave the couple fi sh market was a a personal tour. And “complete culture it seems that was only shock,” according to part of the designers’ Goth. “You know, like interaction this week: killing tuna fi sh [by] A source said the hitting their head,” two designers met at she said. “We went to a CDG’s headquarters maid shop where they for an hour and half treat you like princes on Wednesday. and princesses… it’s Later that evening, just been a dream. I’ll the entire crew made never forget it.” its way to an encore Steinfeld, who staging of Miu Miu’s Raf Simons was just in Tokyo in Sixties-infused fall December for a Dior runway show at a show, was playing tour multipurpose venue guide this trip. “I’m near Shibuy. Herzog & here with my dad and De Meuron designed it’s his fi rst time here the set, including a so I’ve kind of been massive infl atable showing him around,” orange chair that she said, adding that was hanging above famed emporium the runway and an Tokyo Hands was a hit. impressive after-party “We spent like, almost REACH THE setup featuring a bar half a day there.” structured with pillars Martin’s trip was a FASHION INDUSTRY’S reminiscent of those bit of a homecoming found on a Shinto since she spent seven shrine. Guests noshed years living in Japan TOP TALENT on a wide selection as a child and she of Japanese cuisine, hadn’t been back in from juicy chunks 12. She said it was of tuna sashimi to interesting to return morsels of sea urchin to the city as an adult and tofu, while later, and gain a different Nicolas Jaar performed. understanding of it — The front row guests included Dior being able to drink kind of helps, she said. creative director Raf Simons, who just “It’s quite a weird mixture of happened to be in town to launch his experiences. Sort of feeling like you WWD CAREERS.COM second collection of fabrics for Danish completely know the city…You still don’t PRINT & ONLINE PACKAGES AVAILABLE fi rm Kvadrat. He found out about the Miu understand the language but for some Miu event by accident as he caught his reason it still seems very familiar,” she Contact Tiffany Windju at 310.484.2537 or [email protected] fl ight to Tokyo and bumped into a friend. observed. “It’s very, very weird, but good. He’s gearing up for the cherry blossoms, I’m enjoying it.” — AMANDA KAISER

12 WWD friday, march 27, 2015 American Apparel’’ Faces Tough Set of Challenges {Continued from page one} General. The unsecured loan one was “fired for handing out “We don’t need as many peo- be able to sell them on the Web arrangement with hedge fund ultimately came, but with a 14 flyers while on her break.” ple right now to sew all these site,” the source close to the com- Standard General, which he percent interest rate. Once it “The ‘sweatshop-free’ busi- things,” the source noted. “We pany said, noting the site has to mistakenly thought would rein- did report final numbers for the ness model is in jeopardy of being should be the fastest of anyone look professional. state him to power. year, the company said it has ac- eliminated given the current rate in the marketplace, bar none. But when an outside cast- He reentered the spotlight — cess to enough funds to make of deterioration of wages, hours What we’re working toward is a ing agent put out the call, for good or ill — on Wednesday its April interest payment and and working conditions experi- nimble environment.” they stressed the brand was when the company revealed that “meet other funding require- enced by the American Apparel In addition to tweaking opera- looking for models and not the Securities and Exchange ments for the next 12 months.” workforce,” the group said. tions, the company’s new manage- “Instagram hos.” The agent Commission had “issued a for- Fourth-quarter net losses “Garment employees are work- ment is trying to move the brand later tried to walk back the mal order of investigation with widened to $28 million as sales ing as little as two or three comment as an “off- respect to matters arising” from color joke” — albeit one a board committee’s investiga- that generated yet more tion into him. The legalese of the ...It could be direct negative headlines. statement makes it impossible While the chattering to determine what exactly the classes online chuckled, subject of the “non-public, fact- embezzlement. It could be the story line merged with finding inquiry” is, but a person word from sources that the close to the situation said it was misuse of corporate assets or company’s new senior vice focused on Charney and his fi- president of marketing, nancial dealings at the company. it could be insider trading. Cynthia Erland, warned Susan Scafidi, academic against using models director at the Fashion Law that were “too short and Institute at Fordham Law — susan scafidi, fordham law round,” favoring instead School, said: “If this is financial fell 9.2 percent to $153.5 million. days per week, and many “Eastern European look- — and it seems reasonable, if the To help spur growth, the are experiencing rotating ing” models. SEC is interested — then there’s company’s leaders are trying full-week layoffs for the Erland denied that only so many things an individ- to create something American first time in their tenure she made the statements ual could do wrong. It could be Apparel never really had under with American Apparel.” and noted that, “American direct embezzlement. It could be the micromanaging Charney: a A source close to the Apparel embraces body misuse of corporate assets or it more corporate approach with a company acknowledged types of all shapes, eth- could be insider trading.” greater focus on operational ef- changes in working prac- nicities and sizes, and our It’s hard to imagine the in- ficiency and so on. tices were necessary at model casting has and will vestigation slowing Charney, But some workers say they’re the overstaffed and loss- continue to reflect this.” who’s spent most of the last year suffering more than ever. making firm and that new The company has also under investigation by his own Employees have formed a management has had to Photoshopped away nip- board and has for years fended coalition, Workers United to be decisive’’ to move the ples and pubic hair from off myriad lawsuits. Save American Apparel. With operation forward. American Apparel is beginning to take a more some of the racier of its Most immediately, the inquiry the help of immigrant advocate “It is a massive under- conservative approach with its ads. ads, which are catalogued adds a few more headlines to a Hermandad Mexicana, the group taking to turn this beast on its Web site, something public relations battle that is set reached out to the board of di- around,” the source said, admitting on to its next phase, with plans to that’s been noticed and at some to heat up even more when the rectors last week with 13 affir- that workers are being furloughed focus more on social themes in its level mocked. famously eccentric Charney, who mations to “save” the company every week in the cutting and sew- marketing. For years, the brand So American Apparel’s still lives in a Los Angeles mansion “from those who have usurped ing areas. came under fire for advertisements good at causing something of with young American Apparel the legitimate interest of minority Part of the problem is that that were conceived and executed a ruckus and getting people employees, resurfaces on “20/20.” shareholders of the company and American Apparel simply had by Charney and presented scant- talking. But the controversy all Public relations is only part have systematically undermined too many styles that didn’t sell. ily dressed sales associates with a comes without the sexier, edgy of the American Apparel equa- its iconic position as a sweatshop- As a vertical producer, the com- Seventies amateur-porn vibe. overtones that, for many, gave tion, though. The company is free apparel industry leader.” pany focused on keeping its fac- That ended once he was axed the brand its appeal. also struggling financially. That’s clearly singing from tory humming rather than sup- last year. “As crazy as he was, he was The retailer had to delay its the hymnal of Charney. plying simply what was needed American Apparel recently very smart, dynamic,” said one annual report to regulators as The group claimed morale is for its retail and wholesale moved to cast more professional financial source of Charney. it hammered out waivers to its at an all-time low, that workers operations. All told, the stores models in its ads. “Whether the thing can survive credit agreement that would have been “admonished for men- have been carrying 4,100 styles, “Part of the challenge with without him is a question.” allow it to accept $15 million in tioning the name of Dov Charney while the source said only half all ‘real girls’ is that some of the That’s a question that right additional debt from Standard during the work day” and that of those were necessary. clothes don’t fit them so well to now only Schneider can answer.

with a shop on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles. Santa Monica Belk Q4 Profits Rise, Full-Year Slides Fashion scoops will take up a larger footprint at 6,500 square feet, nearly pansion and remodeling proj- BURBERRY’S RISING SUN: including fragrance — which double the Melrose location. By VICKI M. YOUNG ects last year, including the Burberry is breaking new it runs in-house, after having Nasty Gal chief executive officer opening of flagships in Dallas ground on the beauty front terminated its perfume license Sheree Waterson called the Santa BELK INC. posted an 8.4 per- and Huntsville, Ala., and a in Japan. The Tokyo-based with Inter Parfums in 2013. Monica store an “entirely new cent increase in net profits for store at Denham Springs/ Shiseido will start distributing Burberry has big dreams format for Nasty Gal retail.” the fourth quarter although Livingston Parish, La. Burberry’s fragrances there for its new beauty division: The store will sell vintage full-year profits fell 7.8 per- The retailer also invested within a year, according to Wholesale revenue is expected apparel from designers such as cent because of higher invest- $33 million to up fit its fulfill- Shotaro Nagai, a spokesman to grow by about 25 percent Moschino and Chanel in a nod to ment spending. ment center operations in for the Japanese company. at constant exchange rates Nasty Gal’s start as the eBay shop For the three months ended Union County, S.C., which ex- A source said Burberry is in this year, and it has been of founder Sophia Amoruso. The mix Jan. 31, net income rose to panded from 500,000 square advanced talks with Shiseido auditioning potential skin-care of merchandise will also include $104.4 million from $96.3 mil- feet to 840,000 square feet. about a deal that also could partners, including The Estée offerings from international and lion. Belk attributed the in- Belk plans to invest another encompass the brand’s skin Lauder Cos. Inc. local designers, crease to a 5.2 percent pick- $27.5 million to continue its care and makeup. Nagai Historically, it’s been For more along with a up in holiday sales for the build out capabilities. declined to comment on the very hard for fashion scoops, see recently launched nine-week period ended Jan. Tim Belk, the department speculation, as did Burberry. brands to prove their shoe collaboration 3. Net sales rose 5 percent to store chain’s chairman and Shiseido’s subsidiary Beauté legitimacy in skin care WWD.com. with Teva aimed $1.39 billion from $1.32 billion. chief executive officer, said, Prestige International already and break successfully at attendees of the Comparable-store sales gained “Despite challenges early in works closely with Burberry on into the segment. Prada upcoming festival 4.8 percent. The company said the year, we ended fiscal year fragrances, distributing them in and Calvin Klein are among season. The two sandal styles are online sales rose 42.2 percent 2015 with strong holiday sales markets such as France, Spain those to have discontinued their priced at $90 and $110. in the fourth quarter, which and are pleased to report our and the U.S. Earlier this year, treatment offerings. Fragrance Nasty Gal has yet to confirm “positively affected” the com- fifth consecutive year of posi- WWD said the company was a is traditionally the most fruitful details on any future stores, pany’s comps by 2.4 percent tive comparable store sales…. likely partner for Burberry’s beauty category for fashion although Amoruso referred to “a for the period. We are encouraged by the re- planned skin-care line. brands, followed by color dominating retail presence with For the year, net income fell cent trends and believe we Last year, Burberry’s chief cosmetics. —WWD STAFF stores nationwide” in a statement. to $146.1 million from $158.5 mil- are well positioned for the operating officerJohn Smith said, The company in March lion. Belk said the decrease was year ahead.” “We are talking to a range of NASTY GAL PART TWO: Nasty Gal will closed on a $16 million, Series due primarily to higher expens- The company said the possible partners about a range test the waters in Santa Monica C round that also came with the es associated with the firm’s in- merchandise categories that of possible relationships,” with when it opens the doors Friday announcement former Apple vestments in strategic initiatives achieved the highest growth regard to skin care. WWD has to its second store, which bows retail guru Ron Johnson joined the during the period. Net sales in- rates last year included ac- learned Burberry is mulling a at the Third Street Promenade. board. Johnson led the round, creased 1.8 percent to $4.11 bil- tivewear; women’s contempo- larger-scale, strategic partnership The e-tailer’s outpost comes on which also included existing lion from $4.04 billion. rary, resort and bridge; wom- with an outside company to build the heels of its first entrance into investor Index Ventures. Belk said it invested more en’s suits; men’s sportswear, its beauty business — possibly brick-and-mortar in November — KARI HAMANAKA than $79 million in store ex- and juniors.