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WWDSATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

INTO THE THROUGH WHIRLWIND A LENS PARTIES UPTOWN AND COOKIES AND CLOTHES THE GIORGIO ARMANI- DOWNTOWN SPURRED SCOTT STERNBERG SPONSORED “FILMS OF OPENS A NEW YORK THE NEW YORK FASHION CITY FRAMES” PREMIERES WEEK SOCIAL SCENE FLAGSHIP FOR BAND OF AT THE TORONTO OUTSIDERS, WHICH IS INTO HIGH GEAR. FILM FESTIVAL. PAGES 14 AND 15 PAGE 4 MORE THAN A STORE. PAGE 4

NEW STUDY Wholesale and Retail: Both Better Than One

By ARNOLD J. KARR

ATTENTION FASHION DESIGNERS: It’s better to both wholesale and retail than to retail alone. Fashion brands that wholesale are generating stronger growth than the retailers they once depend- ed on — and in many cases they’re doing it at the ex- SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY pense of those very same retailers. WWD A study of fi ve years of data on retail and wholesale performance by analysts at Wells Fargo Securities com- pared fi gures from 11 branded apparel and footwear companies with those of 42 retailers, from specialty stores to department stores, discounters and even gro- ceries. The branded fi rms included PVH Corp., owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfi ger; VF Corp., owner of Seven For All Mankind, Vans and Timberland as well as Wrangler and Lee; Nike Inc.; Hanesbrands Inc. and Ralph Lauren Corp. Among the retailers were Macy’s Inc., Kohl’s Corp., J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Gap Inc., The TJX Cos. Inc. and Urban Outfi tters Inc. The study, led by senior analyst Evren Kopelman, found the wholesale group benefi ted more from ex- pansion into international markets and picked up market share as they developed and built their own retail operations and other direct-to-consumer initia- tives such as e-commerce. What were once suppliers are now competitors — and imposing ones, too. Plus, the wholesale brands, as they’ve become more vertical, have less exposure to the slowdown in mall and store traffi c in the U.S. Through their choice of product assortments, such as handbags, or lifestyle emphases, such as athletic or athletic-inspired prod- uct ranges, many have outpaced the performance of retailers with broader, less-focused offerings. “We wanted to see how well the conventional wis- dom held up that the wholesale group was generating more growth and even stock appreciation than the retailers and attach some numbers to it,” Kopelman, SEE PAGE 12 Gap Inc.’s Athleta American Steps Up Expansion

By DAVID MOIN Beauty ATHLETA IS AT a tipping point. With competition heating up, Athleta, a division of “It’s a well-worn word, and perhaps SPRING 2015 Gap Inc., is accelerating store openings and product not the trendiest, but I’ve always innovation, and raising its profi le. Gap executives en- vision Athleta as going international, evolving into the been vocal about it,” said Jason Wu. NEW YORK corporation’s fourth global brand, along with Gap, Old The word in question: beauty. His COLLECTIONS Navy and Banana Republic. take on it borrowed a page from the On Wednesday, after 16 years in business, Athleta staged its fi rst fashion show, with models in neon American sportswear lexicon. Here, racer bras, striped and printed leggings, cropped his racy, beaded plunging dress offers hoodies and quilted tops somersaulting and break- just a hint of decadence. For more on New dancing across the stage. In the race to capitalize on athletic apparel as fashion, Athleta checked the York Fashion Week, see pages 6 to 11. boxes on the right trends: bright colors, muted neu- trals, prints and a little edge. “We are in a time when fi tness and fashion are con- verging,” Nancy Green, president and general man- ager of Athleta, told WWD. “Athleta is a brand a lot of people are just fi nding out about.” She said the chain will end the year with 100 stores and that another 30 are slated to open next year. Gap bought Athleta six years ago for $150 mil- lion, when it had no stores and sold only via cata- logues and online. Activewear is far outpacing trends in apparel generally, rising 6.6 percent for the 12 months ended June 2014 to about $33.7 billion in the U.S. or 16.3 per- cent of total apparel turnover, according to The NPD Group. “Activewear is booming, with sales growth PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014

Kors Prices Secondary Offering DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX The two purchased the company in the Nineties for FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. By ARNOLD J. KARR a reported $100 million, and sold about $519 million worth of stock at the time of the initial public offering MICHAEL KORS Holdings Ltd. Friday priced Silas in December 2011. They also received an undisclosed Chou and Lawrence Stroll’s remaining 11.6 million portion of the proceeds from a private sale for about Fashion week: shares at $76.75 each — and investors promptly $500 million prior to the IPO. Since then, their firm has Runway, backstage, pulled the stock down below offering price. sold a 7 percent stake at $47 a share in March 2012, a front row, street Kors said on Thursday that Sportswear Holdings 9 percent stake in September 2012 at $53 and about a style, follow our New Ltd., indirectly owned by Stroll and members of 10 percent stake at $61 in February 2013, according to York Fashion Week Chou’s family, would sell the stock, constituting 5.7 Wells Fargo Securities analyst Paul Lejuez. coverage online and percent of the shares outstanding, in a secondary “Given that the stock is currently near $80, the on social. public offering. The two investors, who once held shares have performed well over the time period half of its equity, will resign their seats on the Kors that SHL has sold shares, so we do not think this board, reducing its membership to seven, all but two is a negative indicator of the near- or medium- of whom — chairman and chief executive officer John term state of the business,” he wrote in a note to Creatures Idol and honorary chairman and chief creative officer clients. “Longer term; however, we do believe that of the Wind Michael Kors — are deemed to be independent. SHL not wanting to retain at least a portion of the Shares Friday fell $3.58, or 4.5 percent, to $76.39. company may indicate something about their view That’s down 24.4 percent from their 52-week high of of the company’s longer-term prospects.” Although $101.04, set on Feb. 25, and 0.8 percent below their concerned about the potential for overdistribu- closing price on Aug. 4. The stock fell 5.9 percent tion and, with sales productivity at about $2,000 on the latter date after concerns mounted about a square foot, difficult sales comparisons, he said the outlook for the company’s margins even as it that, overall, “the risk reward is balanced.” reported a 50.2 percent increase in first-quarter net The analyst also believes that the sale might sim- income to go with a 43.4 percent gain in sales. plify matters if and when the company looks to buy The sale of Stroll’s and Chou’s stakes is project- back the licensed rights for Greater China currently ed to generate $892.6 million which, excluding $15.6 held by Far East Holdings, which is owned by SHL, million in fees to underwriter J.P. Morgan, would Kors and Idol. This way, he said, “there are fewer result in net proceeds of $877 million to the sellers. conflicts of interest and it seems less likely the price It is expected to close on or about Sept. 10. paid will be biased to be too high.” Peter Karlie Kloss backstage at Jason Wu. Som Quiksilver Shares Pull Back on Weak Q3 SHARES OF Quiksilver Inc. lost design at its headquarters. Overall revenues slumped 19 per- nearly a quarter of their value But the company’s transition cent to $395.7 million versus $488.3 Friday after the Huntington made it vulnerable to late deliver- million in the 2013 period. By Beach, Calif.-based beach-in- ies, particularly in the U.S., con- brand, Quiksilver fell 17 percent spired apparel and footwear firm tributing to a 30 percent reduc- to $143 million, Roxy was off 9 per- posted a deeper-than-expected tion in its wholesale revenues to cent to $119 million and DC con- third-quarter loss with only nom- $235 million. The news was better tracted 34 percent to $109 million. inal progress in its effort to rein- in its direct-to-consumer segment, Inventories were down 10.2 vigorate its wholesale operations. where store revenues grew 1 per- percent to $346.1 million while ERICKSEN KYLE Shares, which peaked in the cent to $123 million, including a gross margin contracted to 47.8 BY past year at $9.29 on Nov. 13, 1 percent increase in same-store percent of sales from 49.1 percent. pulled back 70 cents, or 24.7 sales, and e-commerce revenues Jeff Van Sinderen, analyst at B. percent, to close Friday at $2.13. rose 10 percent to $35 million. Riley & Co., maintained his “neu- Tavi Gevinson at Volume was 30.3 million shares, In the three months ended July tral” rating on the stock while low- Creatures of the Wind. Richard Chai more than 10 times the three- 31, the net loss hit $220.1 million, or ering his price target to $4.25 from month average of 2.9 million. $1.29 a diluted share, versus net in- $4.50. “There were items in the

Quiksilver has downsized come of $2.1 million, or zero cents, discussion with management that OTHERS ALL GREENE; JENNA its business, selling the Tony in the 2013 quarter. Eliminating I would consider ‘green shoots,’” BY Hawk brand to Cherokee Inc. in discontinued operations, asset im- he said of the company’s confer- January and licensing out the pairment charges of $182.6 million ence call Thursday after the late- Quiksilver and DC apparel busi- and other one-time items, the loss afternoon release of the results. nesses to third parties. It’s also came to 20 cents a diluted share, “The spring order book shows that centralized apparel design op- 18 cents worse than the 2-cent loss the declines are starting to ease erations in France and footwear expected, on average, by analysts. and there’s some pretty good activ- ity with DC’s Vulcanized [canvas] shoes. But while their retail busi- ness is performing fairly steadily, they need to get sell-through at LEXIE MORELAND; BACKTAGE CREATURES MORELAND; LEXIE BACKTAGE

retail. There’s been an implosion BCBG Max Azria BY

among the surf shops and similar TAVI stores in Europe, and they’re shift- ing their wholesale business to a broader base, stores like Macy’s CORRECTION and Dick’s, and trying to put more J Brand is 100 percent owned by Fast Retailing and is not value in their pricing. But all three one of Andrew Rosen’s personal investments. This point of their brands need to broaden was incorrect in a story on page one Friday. their demographic reach for there to be a substantial turnaround.” Andrew Mooney, president and FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Factoring · Accounts Receivable Financing chief executive officer, reported @ WWD.com/social progress in rationalizing the International Factoring and Financing company’s selling, general and TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS administrative costs, which fell 1 [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. 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OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ©2014 Maybelline LLC. 4 WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 WWD.COM Armani Film Set Athleta Ups Profile With Fashion Show {Continued from page one} oriented performance wear is to Green, is hard to achieve. exceeding that of the apparel already proven,” observed Craig “Women are incredibly busy, market as a whole, and it’s be- Johnson, president of Consumer and they are interested in For Toronto Fest cause consumers are wearing Growth Partners. “We think the health and wellness. They want Kong Academy for Performing activewear not only to the gym, concept has great appeal inter- to be comfortable and they don’t By LAUREN MCCARTHY Arts. The students were asked in the gym and from the gym… nationally. They’ve got the for- want to change their clothes five to film around their respective they are working out, going out mula more or less right — not times a day,” said Green. NEW YORK — Beyond the glitz metropolitan areas, but given and even hanging out in ac- everybody likes the upper price Asked about some current and glam of the red carpet, the general free rein. tivewear,” said Marshal Cohen, nature of Athleta, but the prices hot sellers, Green said Athleta’s Toronto International Film “I find that in many areas, chief industry analyst at NPD. aren’t crazy and they are more City Pant collection, introduced Festival will become even more like fashion and film, there is In the 12 months ended June or less in the same bracket at last spring, is a big trend. The fashion-savvy when Giorgio young talent that should be 2013, activewear sales were up Lululemon.” pants are soft and feather- Armani premieres “Films encouraged and supported,” 10 percent, and in the 12 months “I do think Athleta could be- weight, with stretch and wicking of City Frames,” the design said Armani. “Dealing with ended June 2012, they rose 8 come the next global brand for and quick-dry characteristics, house’s new film initiative. young, promising filmmakers percent, NPD said. Gap,” added Rebecca Duval, the kind of traits typically found Created in collaboration and their work is undoubtedly Given the strong trend, and vice president, equity analyst in running shorts and board- with Luxottica and Rai Cinema, an incentive for me: New and Gap’s international presence, an- at BlueFin Research Partners. shorts. “I wear them with blaz- the project includes work from different perspectives always ers,” Green said. international film students, who enrich one’s own vision.” Two other bestsellers are were asked to create short mov- The final, 30-minute prod- lightweight “dry down” jackets, ies using Armani’s Frames of uct is a collage of the six five- which come in four silhouettes, Life eyewear as a “perceptual minute films, which are linked and pants that have compres- filter.” Giorgio Armani is also a together by Armani’s eyewear. sion elements to improve the sponsor of the festival. The scenes range from a word- wearer’s shape. “I have always thought that less peek into a day-in-the-life “We’re not creating more there is a close relationship of a photographer in Paris to products. We are creating prod- between fashion and cinema, a narrative of the countless ucts that are more versatile as they share a great power of missed connections on the to appeal to women of all ages fascination and the ability to streets of New York; a nearly and who do all kinds of ac- create imagery,” Armani said of silent look at aging in Hong tivities. Maybe she is a runner the initiative. “The image of the Kong to a blossoming love story who is also taking a yoga class stars on the screen is conveyed set in a London flower shop. and then going out to lunch. not only by their behavior but “I was struck by the unique- She shouldn’t have to have a set of clothing in the closet CHINSEE for each activity,” Green said. Here and below: “We want women to think dif- stills from “Films GEORGE ferently. They still want new

of City Frames.” BY The Athleta spring show. fashion with exciting ideas, but we don’t think this means they PHOTO have to have all these different alysts believe it’s not a big stretch “Gap has powerhouse sourcing, products for every moment in for Athleta to go international can leverage to get better mar- their lives. We are trying to help soon. A number of other athletic gins and execute global brand women simplify their lives.” brands from around the world — expansion.” “It’s amazing how quickly including Canada’s Lululemon, However, since Athleta lacks we will get to 100 stores by the U.K.’s Sweaty Betty and kids’ and men’s, it is probable it end of this year,” Glenn Murphy, Australia’s Lorna Jane — have may not be on the same scale as Gap Inc. chairman and chief ex- already made the leap. Lorna Gap, Banana Republic or Old Navy. ecutive officer, said last month. Jane entered California with its “Athleta has focused over the “Athleta fits in all real estate — first U.S. store in 2012 and could last year on improving their per- malls, street, strip center. Nike be sold through an auction being formance wear and getting up is the player we look at most staged by Credit Suisse. Urban to par in terms of fashion and and where the share will come Outfitters and Foot Locker are competing with the Lulus of the for Athleta. It will be our fourth among the retailers said to be world,” Duval said. “The prod- global brand.” For now, though, interested. Sweaty Betty began uct is really elevated in terms of the expansion is domestic. opening U.S. stores last year. fashion and performance.” “Athleta is currently focused on Nike and Under Armour are also It’s a collection engineered its U.S. business and we do not distributed internationally. for versatility, fashion and per- have a comment on internation- “Athleta could well be a formance with such technical al expansion at this time,” said global brand. Gap is already attributes as stretch, quick dry a company official. global, has an international skill and wicking, and that formula — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS set and the concept of female- for style and function, according FROM JESSICA IREDALE also by what they wear. In the ness of each short film and the success of a film, not surpris- way in which the stories are de- ingly, costumes and accessories veloped within the urban space,” Band of Outsiders Opens SoHo Space are crucial, and it is not unusu- said Armani. “All of the films al for a film to launch a fashion show a high level of technical By JESSICA IREDALE trend. ‘American Gigolo,’ for proficiency and have interesting example, launched my decon- scripts. Seeing how these young NEW YORK — Scott Sternberg structed jackets and my natu- artists perceive their own cities does not lack a point of view. ral colors, taking my fashion was the biggest surprise. They Label it preppy, hipster or aesthetic to an international were all able to capture a sub- twee, Band of Outsiders has had level.…It was a crucial moment tlety and a narrative angle that a very specific vision from the for me because it helped me to were different and original.” get-go. When it came time for understand how much fashion The film’s premiere, host- scouting his New York flagship, is linked to a way of being, and ed by Roberta Armani and Sternberg knew what he wanted: how the cinema —and media in Academy Award-winning pro- A space in SoHo big enough to general — affects the public’s ducer and director Edward accommodate retail, his whole- imagination. The link between Zwick, will take place today at 11 sale showroom and cookies. fashion and cinema is very a.m. at the St. Lawrence Centre “I’ve been talking to EICHNER complex and fascinating.” for the Arts. A cocktail party at Christina Tosi [founder of Armani noted that “Films the CN Tower, also hosted by Momofuku Milk Bar] about STEVE

The Band of Outsiders BY of City Frames” should not be Roberta Armani and Zwick, will this forever — ‘Wouldn’t it be New York store.

considered a “fashion film,” but follow the screening. “I’d like the cool if?’” said Sternberg about PHOTO rather “a collection of cinematic audience to allow itself to not his ambitions of putting a short films with true narrative only be seduced by the unprec- Momofuku Milk Bar in his store. Sternberg worked with Lot-ek, They did come up with sev- value.” The project compiles the edented portraits of the different “I think most people laughed at the architectural firm that de- eral design ideas that were work of film students studying cities but also to understand the me internally and externally, signed the brand’s Tokyo store. equally unique and on-brand at New York University’s Tisch true spirit of the whole project: but when we found this space in He originally approached them and more pragmatic, all working School of the Arts, the University the importance of the personal SoHo, it was so clear there was with a pre-fab concept. with the concepts of modularity of Southern California’s School viewpoint and the exciting pos- room for them.” “I had a notion in my head, and upcycling. of Cinematic Arts, London’s sibilities that open up when you So the 4,800-square-foot which was ridiculous, that our There’s also Sternberg’s National Film and Television permit creative people to be free Band of Outsiders’ store, open- stores would plop down in an brand of humor in the decor, School, Rome’s Centro from ‘the norm’ ” said Giorgio ing today at 70 Wooster Street, is alleyway,” said Sternberg. “But such as a door to nowhere, hang- Sperimentale di Cinematografia, Armani. “This is what makes half retail, half wholesale with when you look at the practical- ers printed with the word “hang- Paris’ Groupe Esra and the Hong ‘Films of City Frames.’ ” dessert as icing on the cake. ity of that, it was insane.” er” and, of course, cookies. 640 FIFTH AVENUE 40,000 SF OF RETAIL SPACE AVAILABLE

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888 Seventh Avenue vno.com NYSE: VNO 212.894.7000 6 WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 New York CollectionsSpring 2015 Fashion week heated up with Jason Wu, Peter Som, Nicole Miller and Todd Snyder leading the way.

Jason Wu Peter Som Nicole Miller RUDD SCOTT BY COMEY AQUINO; JOHN BY SYNDER MITRA; ROBERT BY MILLER GIANNONI; GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS SELMAN AND SOM WU, WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 7 WWD.COM Todd Snyder: In his first runway Todd Snyder Rachel Comey Adam Selman collection, Todd Snyder focused on what he does best: infusing minimalist basics with a modern twist. “We’re reinventing the classics, like a crisp white shirt, chinos or a suit,” he said backstage before the show. The marriage of function and form was best displayed in cropped utilitarian bombers, an updated leisure suit jacket and cargo shorts. Snyder’s use of graphics on T-shirts and tanks — a first for him — provided a playful diversion, while the suede and leather jackets offered elevated options. Snyder may consider his lineup classic, but his attention to detail pushes the collection into true fashion territory.

Rachel Comey: Dinner and a show has become Rachel Comey’s charming presentation format. She served three courses and three distinct groups of clothes in Dustin Ye l l i n’ s Pioneer Works space in Red Hook, Brooklyn, setting a very personal atmosphere that complemented the line. Without encouraging everyone to trade in the runway for a three-hour event in the outer boroughs next season, Comey’s setup was a perfect example of telegraphing brand identity through staging. It was an individualist’s

FOR MORE SPRING COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

collection, with quirky femininity and a little unexpected sex appeal uniting the three sections. Comey made denim look fresh — no small feat — on a voluminous white strapless dress with a raw hem, worn with a pink acid-washed vest. She put a gypsy spin on colorful cotton in a Jason Wu: Some inspirations are more of decadence (and of Karen Bjornson collection’s nuanced Americana. “I was crop top and ruffled skirt. For dessert: fluid than others. The newly funded on the runway). Together, they made thinking about Pop Art and all-American something sweeter, more delicate, like a Jason Wu offered a one-word reference perfect sense. optimism,” he said. “American sportswear slim black dress with lace accents. source — beauty — which left his options Is “American” code for has become the uniform of the world.” wide-open. Wu chose wisely, “embracing straightforward? In part, yes — and no Som juiced up the classics with optic Adam Selman: It’s obvious why Rihanna the roots of American sportswear,” he dig there. Chic practicality has long been tweaks, such as scaled-up stripes on a long likes to collaborate on custom designs said backstage before his show. core to the fashion vernacular here. tank dress and the slightly exaggerated with Adam Selman. His line captures Though the timing of the sale of In today’s fashion climate dominated cutaway of a crisp white shirtdress, giving that combination of tomboy-street a majority stake of his company to by efficiency and common sense, many newness to the familiar. and bad girly-girl that the singer, who InterLuxe is surely coincidental brands around the world have taken that made a late appearance at Selman’s (contract signed this week), coupled page from the American songbook. Wu Nicole Miller: Inspiration from a far-flung show, is known for. Selman played with this quite polished collection, it has the advantage of natural affinity. locale can be counted on from Nicole with Harumi Yamaguchi’s Eighties could indicate the designer’s symbolic Getting down to business also means Miller. For spring, the chosen locale was airbrush art, spinning nostalgia for a acceptance of the mantle of prior focusing on handbags. Wu’s included Brazil, from whence she gleaned the tacky medium into something that was generations of American greats — that a small shoulder version designed in obvious: Oscar Niemeyer-esque optical cheeky and fresh, if not as strong as his notion on which he leapt to fame but collaboration with his friend Diane Kruger. patterns and a whole lot of tropicana. last collection — or as memorable as the from which he has at times tried to “She actually gave me a hard time,” he Palm prints, floral prints, tutti-frutti barely there sequined dress Rihanna distance himself. Here one could see explained of the bag’s genesis. “She was embellishment and a pineapple jacquard wore to the CFDA Awards. He made a the influence of two poles of American like, ‘You have bags named after all your on a clingy cropped sweater and skirt nod to that look with a tight minidress chic — Bill Blass and Calvin Klein favorite models but I’m, like, your muse.’” combo that was one of the top fruits of fully embellished with pearls, but made — massaged by Wu into something Miller’s labor. The shapes were a checklist sure to differentiate, showing kitschy coherent and fresh. He played tailored Peter Som: Peter Som knows his way of contemporary trends — cropped tops baby T-shirts with a spilled-nail-polish against languid, the former, in a shapely around a color palette. His combinations galore, pleats, tight dresses and skirts, print paired with slouchy linen trousers suit with denimlike stitching; the latter, of relatively quiet shades, like pale pink many of which were hemmed in a clunky that looked like jeans, shorts trimmed a racy, beaded plunging dress. One and muted olive green, worked into florals ruffle — splashed with print medleys and with “floating” pearls and oversize projected elegant dash, the other a hint and oversize stripes, emboldened the mash-ups of the tropical and graphic. tweed jackets and pajama tops. 8 WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014

Tome Wes Gordon Kate Spade

Tome: Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin that were streamlined without being Kate Spade creative director Deborah city,” reflected in the well-structured looked to the old and new India and, plain. A pink stretch-crepe blazer, for Lloyd deftly managed this balancing suits and graphic prints that appeared particularly, the work of two Indian example, was shown with a gray knit act for spring. She put a fresh spin on on sweatshirts, shorts and bomber artists: photographer Dayanita Singh top and a textured denim pencil skirt, classic patterns, such as a deconstructed jackets. A highlight was the technical and classical dancer Rukmin Devi. The while crystal and metal embroidery floral on a bold black and cream stripe. outerwear, including anoraks, influence was most noticeable in pink added some dazzle to staples such as a A signature Spade design, a cream Windbreakers and cropped summer and orange pleated silk skirts, which tweed sweater teamed with black twill bow blouse with a black structured full parkas, which helped to elevate the moved with feminine fluidity, as well as cigarette pants. Although some looks skirt, was shown with a baseball cap and retail-friendly offering. a series of wrap blouses — a nod to the — particularly the white dresses that shower sandals; the look tapped into the Indian sari. Standouts included lavender, closed the show — were a nod to Calvin new ath-leisure trend as did Neoprene CG: Chris Gelinas took a literal sartorial iridescent taffeta culottes and a pair of Klein in their simplicity, Gordon accents on a bag and dress. The brand’s journey for spring, starting with looks voluminous, belted trenchcoat dresses. demonstrated a crisp sophistication signature whimsy was most evident that read conformity — think workwear that was fresh and appealing. in the bags, including a green leather uniforms — to more fanciful, feminine Wes Gordon: “The dialogue between watering can and a wicker snail clutch. numbers. While the two had little in soft and feminine, and clean and Kate Spade: For a brand steeped in a common, they each had their own modern” is how Wes Gordon described retro-cutesy aesthetic that comes in and Perry Ellis: In his debut runway collection appeal. He opened with a strict white his design ethos backstage preshow. out of fashion, the question becomes of sporty tailored clothing for Perry compact cotton shirt with no shoulder For spring, he confidently pushed how to incorporate a modern look while Ellis, designer Michael Maccari was seams, teamed with a flounce skirt in that notion further with silhouettes retaining the core customer appeal. inspired “by the lines and grids of the the same techno fabric, a look that was WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 9 WWD.COM

Perry Ellis CG Carmen Marc Valvo Rebecca Minkoff RUDD SCOTT BY VALVO MARC CARMEN MITRA;

Trina ROBERT Turk BY MINKOFF REBECCA AND ELLIS PERRY SULLIVAN; STEPHEN BY SPADE KATE CHINSEE; GEORGE BY GORDON WES

clinical, if modern. he is known for — polished a pretty print.” The rest of the collection AQUINO; The designer’s use eveningwear. He set the wasn’t exactly groundbreaking design-wise, of prints for draped tone with a black-and- it all was plenty cute and injected with a JOHN

SPRING 2015 BY numbers made a white scuba fit-and-flare Seventies pastel palette. An off-the-shoulder

strong counterpoint, mididress, a silhouette dress came in a muted mint green, while a TOME especially the flag- NEW YORK he repeated in everything sleeveless dress was shown in cotton shirting pattern silk-twill from florals to metallics, and a nautical striped blouse topped a ruffle- overlay for a silk- COLLECTIONS including a standout gown wrap skirt. Knockout accessories included georgette tank top, version in cobalt with a the fringed and studded bags in lavender IANNACCONE; which was shown with sheer, pleated skirt. leather and color-blocked wedges that gave an asymmetric wrap skirt the clothes a little edge. THOMAS in a matching print. The Rebecca Minkoff: Rebecca Minkoff BY common thread: Gelinas’ use of likes to have fun with technology and Trina Turk: Turk’s spring collection was innovative fabrics, which sets him this time she closed her show with five inspired by “beautiful poppy prints and PHOTOS apart from many of his peers. looks done in a 3-D print, so guests were florals” that were mixed in with Pop-Art- CG

given said glasses to take in the spectacle. inspired geometric patterns that showed AND Carmen Marc Valvo: Carmen Marc Valvo While the effect wasn’t entirely conducive up on everything from dresses to shorts. celebrated his 25th year in business with to watching models walk a runway, it was, as The boys also got the colorful treatment via TURK

a collection that best illustrates what the designer said backstage preshow, “still printed boardshorts and button-ups. TRINA 10 WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014

Tess Giberson Marissa Webb Honor Araks BANICA RODIN BY VPL AND OCHS ET CUSHNIE ARAKS, CHINSEE; GEORGE BY L.A.M.B. HONOR, GIANNONI; GIOVANNI BY WEBB

AQUINO; FOR MORE SPRING COVERAGE, SEE JOHN

BY WWD.com/ runway. PHOTO GIBERSON

Tess Giberson: “It’s my vision of Palm designs in her namesake collection. Araks: Araks Yeramyan knows how to expose plenty of skin. The vibe was part Springs,” Tess Giberson said backstage Although Webb still had plenty of cleverly manipulate her fabrics into goddess, part warrior (via draping and after her show. In particular, she pretty looks, the standouts had a subtle unfettered shapes for a strong impact. fringe detail), a look the more daring was inspired by the clash of “water edge — namely, the deconstructed Russian Constructivism informed the type of celebrity might want to consider environments in a desert landscape,” trenchcoats that served as apronlike graphic patterns for spring, including for her next red-carpet foray, especially which, for her, meant blending synthetic vests and added a cool overlay to girly stripes worked into circles and in the head-turning marigold color of and natural materials in a fresh and flounce dresses. Webb should continue herringbone from folds. By stretching the opening numbers. That said, the duo modern collection. Key looks included to veer in that direction. some of her printed fabrics, tiny circles delivered a welcome detour from their a pleated, metallic foiled skirt paired become larger toward the hemlines. The comfort zone: Halfway through the show, with an Ottoman-knit sweater, macramé Honor: Giovanna Randall’s collection for colors pulled it all together, in mixes of they presented a few quieter styles, tops, crocheted sweaters and a graphic Honor was an odd affair. She usually pink, pale blue, navy and a surprising including a white pleated georgette jacquard knit dress. Giberson also shows quirky evening clothes that are splash of gold on the back of one dress. dress with a Neoprene overlay that, introduced a capsule of minimalist beautifully and intricately made. But The intricate approach worked to while still sexy, added a modern and swimwear paired with sheer cover-ups this season, the eccentric factor went a stunning results: clothes that were slightly more controlled edge to their and even incorporated a wave collage bit too far with costume-y silk dresses, lovely and ultimately wearable. design repertoire. print on a dress. overly precious details and shapes that came across more dated than vintage. Cushnie et Ochs: To say Carly Cushnie and VPL: Held in the VPL boutique Victoria Marissa Webb: As the creative director of A significant exception was the tulip- Michelle Ochs enjoy designing ultrasexy Bartlett’s spring presentation was Banana Republic, a role she assumed patterned jacquard, which Randall clothes is stating the obvious. For spring, stunning, and, as usual, it included this past spring, Marissa Webb has a consistently rendered in strong and they turned up the volume once more more than clothes. Aerialists and a new commercial outlet, which may simple shapes, such as an ivory-and- with va-va-voom dresses, many banded contortionist, dressed in the designer’s explain some of the more daring black tent coat and floaty gown. and graphically layered at the bodice to color-blocked bras, leotards and slinky WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 11 WWD.COM

Leslie Nicole Smith Cushnie VPL wearing Joshua McKinley. et Ochs

Letrice Titus in Carmen Marc Valvo.

Kisha Cody in Betsey Johnson.

A Model Turn L.A.M.B.

For Military MITRA ROBERT Servicewomen BY PHOTOS

DECKED OUT in variations of Rhoda gave her pointers such as the little black dress, 14 military “Just be ourselves. Get out there, be servicewomen turned models beautiful and have fun.” Wednesday night for the “Salute Retired Army Capt. Leslie the Runway” fashion show at the Nicole Smith, who is the Fatigues Pavilion at Lincoln Center. to Fabulous spokeswoman, walked The event, presented by Little the runway in a short black dress Black Dress Wines and Fatigues — designed by “Project Runway to Fabulous, served to raise All Stars” finalist Joshua McKinley awareness and support for military — with her Seeing Eye dog and servicewomen and their transition revealing her prosthetic leg. when reentering civilian life. “There is an overwhelming Companies such as Carmen Marc sense of pride in having worn the Valvo, Tadashi, Michael Michael uniform,” Smith said. She said Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Nicole Miller, the runway experience makes SPRING 2015 DKNY, Tahari, Calvin Klein, Rebecca the women feel like saying, “I’m Taylor, Norisol Ferrari, Betsey beautiful, and I’m a woman, and Johnson and Mara Hoffman loaned I feel so confident.” She hopes to NEW YORK black dresses for the event and styled take “Salute the Runway” around the COLLECTIONS the servicewomen for the runway. country to give more servicewomen dresses, swung, stretched Hilary Rhoda of IMG Models provided “the amazing experience.” and twisted gracefully. The coaching and tips on walking the “This is life-changing. This is the clothes, in a strategic mix runway, and Bobbi Brown did most memorable event,” said Smith. of lavender, turquoise and their makeup. Lauren Hutton went “We do need this awareness. As [female red, emphasized contours and backstage to lend her support. veterans] come back, they need to be movement. A film featuring the same “I felt like a million dollars,” said recognized for their service.” performers dropping and swinging 20 feet from Army Sgt. Letrice Titus, a behavioral Norisol Ferrari, one of the a rustic bridge in an upstate quarry was shown health specialist. Dressed in a black designers who loaned two dresses to simultaneously, and emphasized the suppleness Carmen Marc Valvo gown with gold the event, said she was overwhelmed and drama of the collection. trim along the sides, she said, “When with emotion. “Being the daughter I was asked to do this, I thought, ‘I’m of a vet, for me, this is what fashion L.A.M.B.: L.A.M.B. designer Gwen Stefani called a big girl.’ This is size 12, but I feel is about. It’s not about exclusion. It’s her spring collection “The New Nomad”; like size 8. I just feel fierce.” about empowerment,” she said. backstage, she talked about “how we are all so She was also excited to meet Launched at the event, the app inspired by each other’s cultures, and how we Valvo. “To meet him and for him to Shout, which is free to download influence each other.” The result was a fun array fit me — are you serious? I was just at the iTunes app store and Google of vibrant, ikat-print bohemian dresses and a in awe,” said Titus. Play, seeks donations to Fatigues cool black caftan with white tassels. Men’s wear Kisha Cody, an Army sergeant to Fabulous, which collaborates elements were also thrown into the mix, including who is a petroleum-lab specialist, with nonprofit organizations such Stefani’s takes on masculine cool: a sky-blue suit walked the runway in a black Betsey as Grace After Fire, Save-a-Suit and worn over a graphic blouse and slouchy trousers Johnson dress. She called her the David Lynch Foundation. paired with bomber jackets. experience “exhilarating,” and said — LISA LOCKWOOD 12 WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 WWD.COM Wells Fargo Sees ‘Sellers’ Market’ as Retailers Struggle {Continued from page one} and Timberland units — that or partners if you go that route.” who covers the brands for Wells had reduced their store counts What can retailers do to re- Fargo, told WWD. “I was sur- International vs. Domestic Growth for and retail square footage during verse their ailing domestic for- prised at how well the data sup- Branded Apparel & Footwear Companies that five-year span. tunes? Kopelman advises a more ported the thesis and how, even Even including these “lean- flexible approach to consumer among the wholesalers, the 41% er” operations, the total number preferences. She made the point parts of the business that are of stores operated by the group that specialty retailer Citi Trends lagging are those with more ex- expanded during that period to Inc. led all companies in the posure to the pressured perfor- 9,743 from about 5,700, nearly 71 study, wholesale or retail, with mance of U.S. retailers.” percent higher, and the number the strongest increase in consen- She pointed out that some of square feet added was more sus estimates versus a year ago, a of the largest companies in than 10.5 million. In descending whopping 45 percent leap. her wholesale sample, includ- 23% order of square-footage added, However, she noted that Citi ing the two largest U.S.-based 19% the top numbers came from Nike Trends faced several difficult companies in the brand group, (1.7 million), Hugo Boss (1.4 mil- years before it started to see 14% PVH and, to some extent, VF, 13% 12% 13% lion), Ralph Lauren (1.3 million) signs of a turnaround, including have been encumbered by their 10% and Levi’s (1.2 million). The fig- a more than 50 percent reduc- “heritage” businesses, whether ures for Nike and Ralph Lauren tion in its second-quarter loss. those be PVH’s Heritage Brands were for the five years ended last Sales in the quarter rose 5.2 group or VF’s older denim year, and the Levi’s number was percent and comparable-store brands, such as Wrangler and aided by the 2009 acquisition of sales were up 5.3 percent. Lee. These businesses have 2011 2012 2013 2014* Levi’s and Dockers outlets pre- “It’s working,” Kopelman greater dependence on whole- International Domestic *2014 figures are estimates viously operated by the Anchor said of the Savannah, Ga.-based sale than some of the more re- Blue Retail Group. operator of 509 stores in 29 cently acquired brands. In its analysis of compound states, all of them emphasizing “VF is growing in direct-to- annual growth rate for DTC sales value pricing. On the company’s consumer and international among the brands over the five- second- quarter conference call faster than it is domestically,” year period, Wells Fargo found on Aug. 20, Ed Anderson, chair- Kopelman commented. “I’ve Stock Performance the leaders were Under Armour man and chief executive officer, liked PVH [as a stock] for a long (51 percent), Deckers (43 per- reported that the 5.3 percent time, but before the acquisi- 53% cent), Columbia (36 percent), comp increase was the “best in tion of Warnaco [completed in Levi’s (30 percent) and Hugo over four years” and provided February 2013], they faced lim- Boss (23 percent). All had lower comps by merchandise category: its on what they could do in e- CAGRs for their wholesale opera- accessories and footwear up 24 commerce and DTC. They’ve 41% tions during those years, ranging percent, men’s wear up 1 per- made progress in those areas, from Deckers’ 22 percent growth cent and children’s and women’s but they still have more expo- 22% to Levi’s 2 percent decline. apparel down 1 percent and 4 sure in the U.S. wholesale chan- Kopelman conceded that percent, respectively. nel than many of their competi- 11% brands face difficult choices “They saw that footwear and tors and they also had exposure 8% as they plot their international accessories are selling better in outlets, which are slowing expansions. She contrasted than apparel and they adjusted now, but were a good growth -5% the performance of Tiffany & their space and buying accord- story for a long time.” Co., which faced a long road to ingly,” Kopelman noted. “They

VF’s DTC revenues accounted 2013 2014* profitability in Europe by open- did it incrementally, but they for 22 percent of its $11.42 billion ing its own stores, with that of didn’t move slowly. Since J.C. in 2013 volume, up 1 point from Specialty Retail, Broadlines, Hardlines, Healthy Lifestyles & Grocery L Brands Inc., which is “doing Penney’s recent experience, a lot 2012, and international for 38 Branded Apparel & Footwear S&P 500 *Year-to-date a lot of partnering and licens- of people want to move slowly, percent of sales, also up 1 point ing because they prefer that but it really seems to be more a from the prior year. At PVH, in- ‘capital-light’ model. Certainly matter of the direction you move

ternational grew to 45 percent wear companies saw their stock above consensus levels. it helps to pick the right partner in than the speed you move at.” of its $8.19 billion in 2013 rev- values increase 53 percent, better As if to underscore the matu- enues from 39 percent, lifted by than the 30 percent gain recorded rity of the U.S. market at retail, the acquisition of The Warnaco by the S&P 500. By contrast, the the Wells Fargo team looked at Group Inc. PVH has described retailers underperformed the the brands’ growth generators in its e-commerce business as wholesalers as well as the S&P the years since 2011 and found EPS Growth being in its infancy.’’ Except in the with growth of 22 percent. international growth outpacing Heritage Brands unit, it doesn’t So far in 2014, the gains have domestic expansion, although break out retail revenues. been harder to come by, but the by a narrower margin in the The Wells Fargo team looked rankings are the same — the three most recent years than in at store count data spanning the brands are up 11 percent, the 2011, when international grew years 2007 to 2012 and at sales, S&P up 8 percent and the retail- at a 41 percent clip and domes- earnings and stock data back to ers down 5 percent. tic at a 23 percent rate. So far in mid-2012. The branded apparel By dollar value and percent- 2014, international growth for and footwear group consistently age, the wholesale group has the wholesale sample has been generated stronger sales growth provided large upside surprises 13 percent versus 10 percent for every quarter since the sec- in quarterly profitability, while for the domestic portion of the ond half of 2012 and superior the retailers have either pro- brands’ businesses. Kopelman believes that the move to DTC has yielded anoth- er advantage not previously en- Even among the wholesalers, the parts joyed by wholesale entities. “In the past, the wholesalers relied of the business that are lagging are those on whoever they sold through to Specialty Retail, Broadlines, Hardlines, Healthy Lifestyles & Grocery tell them what was and wasn’t Branded Apparel & Footwear with more exposure to the pressured selling,” she said. “Now, they have their own data from their performance of U.S. retailers. own stores and they get constant data on their Web sites and social — EVREN KOPELMAN, WELLS FARGO SECURITIES media pages. They’re much clos- Sales Growth REPORTS er to their end customer in lots of ways, whether they’re getting COMPANY growth in earnings per share for duced smaller ones or disap- feedback in their stores or [on] e- every quarter but one, the third pointments. The median “sur- commerce sites, conducting their AND quarter of last year, when the two prise” on a percentage basis for own research or collecting com- LLC groups were essentially identical. the second quarter was 11 per- ments on a social media site.” In the second quarter, the cent above consensus estimates Although figures for 2013 average sales increase among for the wholesale group versus 5 still haven’t been tabulated for SECURITIES the wholesalers was 18 percent, percent for the retailers. In the all companies studied, Wells exactly three times the average first quarter, when inclement Fargo collected data for the FARGO increase among the retailers. weather and post-holiday lethar- five years ended in 2012 on the In terms of profits, the quarter- gy led to depressed’’ traffic counts retail expansion activities of WELLS ly growth rate was 19 percent, and poor sales at retail, the re- 23 wholesale brands, including while the retailers, on average, tail group was 5 percent below individual brands and groups declined 4 percent. consensus estimates, on average. of brands owned by larger play- ESTIMATES, The differences in stock per- Ye t , despite the challenges con- ers like VF and PVH. Among

formance over the recent past fronting retailers, the wholesale this group were five — Hanes, Specialty Retail, Broadlines, Hardlines, Healthy Lifestyles & Grocery FACTSET were similarly glaring. In 2013, group’s earnings on a per-share PVH’s Heritage Brands group Branded Apparel & Footwear

the branded apparel and foot- basis were on average 17 percent and VF’s Lee/Wrangler, Nautica SOURCE:

w06a012a;10.indd 12 9/5/14 8:31 PM 

14 WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014

The scene at the Dom Pérignon party.

Kate Greer, Margot Moe, Cleo Wade, and Liza Voloshin. They Live by Night

THE LAST PERSON one town, in the West Village, Linda Costume Institute’s annual ball. would expect to see at a New Evangelista, Alicia Keys, Cleo Wade, Walking up those famous Yo r k Fashion Week party is the Lindsay Ellingson and the model great steps were Hugh Jackman, drummer from Metallica. But Toni Garrn looked perfectly made Wendi Murdoch, Tommy Hilfiger, there he was Thursday night at up at a party to mark the 20th Tor y Burch, Lily Aldridge, Lauren The Standard, East Village, anniversary of François Nars’ Santo Domingo, Anna Wintour Lars Ulrich himself, the Danish brand. Despite the milestone, and Ana Ivanovic, now free to king of heavy metal. Nars was already on to his go to social gatherings after Ulrich has made a name next project, a book due in her early exit from the U.S. for himself outside of music — 2016, and he seemed to Open. Abrams is publishing he’s a savvy art collector, for be scanning the room for a book covering the last instance. But fashion is new portraits. “It’s a celebrity 13 years of the galas and to him. It turns out he’s been book with a very eclectic its exhibitions, including dating, and is engaged to, one of group of people,” he said. the most recent, “Charles its freshest faces, model Jessica “I’m shooting this year James: Beyond Fashion” Carmelo Miller. “She’s traveled all over and all next year — I’m and “Jacqueline Anthony the world with me for the last shooting 160 portraits.” Kennedy: The White three years,” he said. “So I’ll A few blocks away, House Years,” and a follow her around fashion week Naomi Watts, Keri Russell book signing was in for a few days. That’s what we and Naomie Harris were order by its authors, do for each other.” among those shopping Vogue international This time he had followed the soon-to-launch editor at large Hamish her to Narcissa, to a party hosted Joseph Altuzarra for Bowles and social by Purple magazine. He was not Target collection at editor Chloe Malle. the only musician in attendance Skylight Clarkson Sq. Bowles’ first Iris van Herpen — Sky Ferreira and Casey Spooner “I actually just met immersible were there, too, as were [Joseph], but experience with more familiar faces like I’ve worn his the museum Peter II and Harry Brant, Inez clothes before. Naomi was curating the van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh eye His clothes are Watts Kennedy exhibit, a Matadin, Max Snow and strong and sexy, Herculean effort that Francesco Clemente. with an edge. I required the globe- How does fashion can’t believe you trotter to take a sabbatical compare to the music world? can buy them at Target,” from the magazine. This “It’s all a bunch of people said Watts, who doesn’t, at project was a far less staring, trying to see who else is first, strike one as a regular strenuous undertaking in the room while you’re talking Target shopper. — he’d already written to them,” Ulrich said. “It’s no Uptown, the about most of the different than rock ’n’ roll.” Metropolitan Museum exhibitions in the past. Sounds about right. of Art played host to a “The book had already On the opposite side of small-scale version of the written itself, miraculously,”

Keri Russell and Joseph Altuzarra

Lindsay Ellingson

Tor y Burch Arden Wohl and Marina Parker Posey and Linda and Francesco Rust Connor Rachel Comey Evangelista Clemente WWD WEEKEND, SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 15 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

A NEW DEAL?: Could fragrance ONE OF A KIND: Filson will be next for Jason Wu? The day it launch its new C.C. Filson was revealed that the designer line on Saturday, a collection had a new majority partner in of five different outerwear equity firm InterLuxe, tongues looks in collaboration with started wagging after Coty’s British designer Nigel Cabourn. chief marketing officer for fragrances, Steve Mormoris, was spotted in Wu’s front row Friday afternoon. Mormoris

declined to confirm the speculation, saying only,

TARGET “We’re always evaluating

FOR projects.” The designer already does color cosmetics with Lancôme, IMAGES and Coty’s vast designer portfolio includes the scent licenses of Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and BARNARD/GETTY Balenciaga. — JULIE NAUGHTON NEILSON

Sky Ferreira and BY GARMENTO GOURMANDS: Toni Garrn Olivier Zahm The garment district is WATTS not exactly at the top of the list for foodies’ Bowles said. “I had to do a tiny favorite neighborhoods, bit of tweaking.” but that may change with Meanwhile, in a galaxy far, this fall’s launch of an A jacket by Filson. far away — Red Hook, Brooklyn outdoor food market. A

— Rachel Comey attracted PRUTTING/BFANYC.COM; hodgepodge of chefs and her usual brood of loyalists X artisanal culinary startups will His designs will be the first

(read: celebs of the Brooklyn DAVID be serving their specialities in a continuing line of Filson hipster variety) to her spring BY along Broadway between designer collaborations that presentation cum dinner at 39th and 41st Streets, thanks will all fall under the C.C. Dustin Yellin’s Pioneer Works. to a collaboration between Filson brand. RUSSELL Jason Schwartzman stuck by Yellin UrbanSpace and The Garment “The inspiration for the all night while Parker Posey District Alliance. Roberta’s, collection came from an dipped out between courses EICHNER; Red Hook Lobster, Mighty Balls original Filson jacket that I for a nicotine fix. “Come, come and Gelato Ti Amo will be in found in a vintage store in join us,” she said waving over a STEVE the mix when UrbanSpace Japan,” he said. “It was a 1930’s BY friend who was looking for the Garment District bows Sept. 15. Filson jacket with odd pockets bathroom. “We’re being bad….” It will be open daily through that did not match and was BURCH On Wednesday night, the Peter Brant II, Oct. 19 from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. probably a mistake. We ended venue was coated in a thick, Paige Reifler and AND The collaboration is part of up using this style of pockets on sticky dew and all manners Harry Brant. The Garment District Alliance’s two C.C. Filson jackets.”

of neon green lighting for the JACKMAN ongoing campaign to attract The prices will range from unveiling of “Cocoonase,” forward-thinking tenants, $595 to $725 and the collection an art piece created by Iris WOHL, according to GDA president will be sold at Filson stores van Herpen for Dom Pérignon FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Blair Randall, who has not doubt worldwide. — D.Y. to encase the brand’s 2004 BRANT, that fashion types and visitors vintage. “It’s very of-another- WWD.com/eye. will flock to the neighborhood’s CUSHNIE COLLABORATES: world, almost extraterrestrial,” newest addition. Cushnie et Ochs has designed Iekeliene Stange mused. “It looks FERREIRA, — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG a series of five dresses to be alive.” It did, like a shiny metal sold exclusively at Forward RUDD; alien with a gushing metallic FROM ACROSS THE POND: British by Elyse Walker’s Web site

liquid pooled around it. SCOTT designer Gareth Pugh made his forwardbyelysewalker.com.

Electric fans purred from each BY New York debut with a large- Based on the brand’s best- corner of the room, cooling the scale installation and live selling styles — like a white, sweaty partygoers crammed KAZAN performance with dancers draped silk georgette dress; inside — Carmelo Anthony, Paz de AND at Lexus Design Disrupted, a white flared cocktail dress la Huerta, Joe Jonas, Stella Schnabel, showcasing a collection with side cutouts, and a

Coco Rocha and Anja Rubik. The POSEY that was inspired by British black full-length halter dress icy bubbly helped, too. folklore, paganism and its rites with shoulder cutouts — the — ERIK MAZA, TAYLOR RUBIK, and rituals. The show brought collection will also include HARRIS, JULIE NAUGHTON, out a few notable guests like one of the dresses that walked SHARON EDELSON. ROCHA, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Coco Rocha and down Cushnie et Och’s spring Sarah Jessica Parker. runway Friday. “Isn’t this FOR MORE Elyse Walker ANTHONY, magnificent; this SCOOPS, SEE contends that the display is nothing brand is among the HERPEN, Coco Hugh that I’ve ever seen,” WWD.com. retailer’s best-selling Rocha Jackman VAN said Parker, while brands, with the walking through the signature cutout PARTY, crowded space. dresses selling out in a The show, filled with matter of hours or a day after multiple jumbo screens hitting the site. “We noticed PÉRIGNON for simultaneous videos, instantly that dresses are our

FALK; featured burlap fabric that number-one ready-to-wear was contorted into clothes that category — [and] it wasn’t just EVAN

BY flowed, moved and draped day dresses,” Walker said. “We’ve the dancers. “I danced in last been able to go higher with price year’s show but this seems to point — but when we got sexy, our PHOTOS top it,” Rocha said. customer reacted immediately. The show was 30 minutes She’s buying architectural, bold long and repeated twice that pieces, [and] if anyone is working

EVANGELISTA night. Pugh, who shows in right on trend for us — it’s the

AND Paris, said that the New York Cushnie girls.” installation was focused on the For Cushnie et Ochs art of fashion. designers Michelle Ochs and Carly

ELLINGSON “I know New York City is Cushnie, the capsule collection is Zoe Kazan and Morgan all about business, but none a way to bring back best-selling

Saylor at the Rachel GARRN, of this was commercial as you silhouettes — with updated Anja Rubik Comey presentation. can see,” Pugh said. “That will detailing or in different

GREER, come later.” — DAVID YI colorways. — RACHEL STRUGATZ