The State of French Beauty Influence, a Study by CEW France and Wearisma Contents

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FEBRUARY 2019

The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Contents

The State of French Beauty Influence: 1Introduction and executive summary

Global Beauty: French Beauty Wearisma’s Influence Index: How the Beauty Market is Top Influential Beauty 2represented by Influencers 3 4Brands in France Q4 2018

Wearisma’s Ones To Watch: Crowd Pleasing Cosmetics: The State of French Beauty Key Influencer Which products work best Influence: 5Personas for 2019 6with Influencers? 7conclusion and glossary

2 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Introduction Wearisma and CEW France have partnered to produce the first in-depth study on the state of French Beauty Influencer Marketing.

Our joint research will walk you through unique insights into the world of beauty Influencers, successful brand strategies and products and not-to-be-missed Influencer profiles to watch out for in 2019.

We aim to set the benchmark for the evolution of French Beauty Influence and identify the key metrics that define success for leading beauty brands in Influencer Marketing.

Executive Summary

We’ve become familiar with seeing the same traditional This report reveals the value of a data-driven approach to heritage and prestige brands at the top of the French beauty Influencer Marketing, so that French beauty brands can 1charts. Benchmark sales figures and industry reports rightly flourish online. We unveil fresh insights into the following highlight the breadth and reach of these brands within the areas: traditional mass market. • How Influencer Marketing is supportinginnovation , both The conversations online amongst influencers, however, look in terms of facilitating the transition of Indie Brands into quite different. Digital Giants, as well as fostering innovation of new bold looks. Our analysis delves deep into real-time data in order to • The most mentioned Beauty ‘Power Player’ brands by reveal the current beauty-based conversations happening French Influencers - we take a closer look at why, and who among France’s influencers. For instance, which brands they is following close behind. are tagging, which products they are talking about, their engagement rates and what media value they are generating. • The success of ‘Digital Giants’ like Huda Beauty, Anastasia This serves as a good indicator of the digital buzz that brands Beverly Hills and NYX Cosmetics to understand how they generate within the beauty sector and how well they are have dominated the online marketplace through successful marketing themselves online. Influencer strategies. • We also put the Influencer strategies of the smaller Through their content, Influencers are challenging traditional Independent, or ‘Indie Brands’ under the spotlight - their concepts of French beauty, which are evolving to become methods, who they are using, and why? increasingly diverse, increasingly adventurous and increasingly male. When engaging in Influencer Marketing, brands need to • Why increasing diversity by using Beauty Boys and Men, reflect the changing face of beauty in order to fully engage Specialised MUA’s, Influencers of Colour and Avant-Garde French online audiences. Artists will bring success in 2019. • Which specific products are gaining traction with Influencers and therefore, what brands should be highlighting as part of their Influencer Marketing strategy?

3 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma 2 Global Beauty: How the Beauty Market is represented by Influencers

4 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma The growing value of this industry is mirrored by its Zion Market impact on the digital landscape, with Beauty having the largest online share of voice in France, the UK Research projected and USA. that the Global Our analysis also revealed that Beauty has achieved the largest media value in France, the UK and USA. Cosmetic Products The profitability of the content produced within this market is supported by the Influencing Beauty report, which found that 80% of consumers agree Market will increase that Influencers are pivotal in influencing their by 62% between 2017 buying decisions. and 2024.

SHARE OF VOICE BY NUMBER OF INFLUENCERS BY COUNTRY Q4 2018

50% 47% 47% 43% 42% 40% 29% 27% 27% 29% 30% 26% 23% 25% 23% 20%

10%

0% Number of Infuencers Luxury Luxury Luxury Luxury Beauty Beauty Beauty Beauty Fast fashion Fast fashion Fast fashion Fast fashion JAPAN FRANCE UK USA

SHARE OF VOICE BY MEDIA VALUE BY COUNTRY Q4 2018

70% 63% 58% 60% 55%

50% 42% 40% 29% 30% 30% 26% 20% 23%

Media Value 16% 20% 15% 14% 10%

0% Luxury Luxury Luxury Luxury Beauty Beauty Beauty Beauty Fast fashion Fast fashion Fast fashion Fast fashion JAPAN FRANCE UK USA

Source: Wearisma Data Country: France, Japan, US & UK Timeline: Q4 2018

5 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma 3

French Beauty

6 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma A 2017 report by Statista revealed that Quite clearly, the significance of digital/Influencer Marketing within the French beauty market is huge. France consumed the second largest amount (11.34 billion Euros) of cosmetics So what does the French Influencer Industry look like? When in Europe, behind Germany. analysing the makeup of French Beauty Influencers we found that on average, the majority of their audiences reside in France Given the size and importance of the French consumer market, (80%) (followed by the UK and then Canada), which appears along with the fact that French multinational conglomerates to reflect a propensity for such Influencers to post content in like LVMH, L’oréal and Estée Lauder own a large share of the the French language. While French Mega-Influencers with 1 world’s most popular beauty brands, the global influence of Million plus followers have the highest media value (€131,200 French beauty is not to be doubted. on average), French Influencers with less than 20K followers achieve the highest engagement rates (4.99% on average). Meanwhile, looking online, France has seen a 6% growth in active social media users in the last year alone, while more Given recent developments within the beauty industry, it is than half of the population take online reviews into account no longer helpful to discuss the industry in a homogenous before purchase. What’s more, 36% of French people have fashion. As it grows, Wearisma have identified three clear discovered a new product or brand via an Influencer. fractions within the Beauty industry.

7 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma 4 Wearisma’s Influence Index: Top Influential Beauty Brands in France Q4 2018

8 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma In order to obtain a clearer picture of the Research from Euromonitor and J.P. Morgan indicated that between 2010 and 2015 the top 15 Power Players influence of beauty in France, we have were steadily losing shares as Digital Giants were gaining. divided the industry into three groups: Perhaps in recognition of the strength of digital players, the ‘Power Players’, major beauty brands who last 5-10 years has seen half of the top ten most mentioned have an extensive history and are more Digital Giants acquired by the same French multinational conglomerates who house the Power Players. than 25 years old; ‘Digital Giants’, beauty brands born on social media who quickly A report by Mintel has linked the success of Indie beauty developed a large following that surpasses brands to their ability to offer “fresh perspectives and unique 2 million; and ‘Indie Brands’, young and benefits that big brands can’t fulfill”. During the promotion of LVMH’s Innovation award Ian Roger, Chief Digital Officer at independent beauty brands. LVMH (which owns half of the top ten Power Players and 2 of the Digital Giants) stated “If you have a startup that’s defining the future of customer experience, we want to know about you”. This statement perfectly encapsulates the cycle forming within the beauty industry, whereby brands grow, disrupt the market, become challengers, and are acquired.

The Beauty Industry Cycle

Young and independent Indie beauty brands Brand GROWTH

INVESTMENT

Beauty brands born on social media Major beauty brands who have an Power Digital who quickly developed a large extensive history and are <25 years old Player Giant following that surpasses 2 million

Acquisition

9 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Fashion, Beauty, Lifestyle

Beauty, Lifestyle

Beauty, Fashion, Lifestyle

Fashion, Lifestyle

Beauty, Culture, Lifestyle

Beauty

Beauty, Culture, Fashion

Lifestyle

Culture, Fashion, Lifestyle

Culture, Lifestyle

Fashion, Beauty, Beauty, Beauty, Culture, Beauty, Fashion, Culture, Beauty, Fashion, Culture, Beauty Culture, Lifestyle Fashion, Lifestyle Lifestyle Lifestyle Lifestyle Lifestyle Lifestyle Fashion Lifestyle

MEDIA VALUE BY CONTENT CATEGORY

100% 6% 6% 9% 13% 16% 14% 22% 15% 9% 6% 80% 5% 6% 13% 6% 9% 10% 13% 31% 6% 7% 20% 14% 60% 14% 8% 11% 10% 8% 8% 6% 54% 5% 8% 8% 40% 76% 69% 6% 58% On averageNumber of Inﬂuencers % , Power Players 49% 50% Power 45% 42% 20% 38% have the largest number 29%of Players Influencers. 19% 0% MAC Make Up Dior Make NARS Beneﬁt L'Oréal Lancôme Yves Givenchy Chanel Forever Up Cosmetics Rocher Beauty Beauty

The majority of Power Players receive ENGAGEMENTS BY CONTENT CATEGORY the most engagement and highest media 100% 6% value from French Fashion, Beauty and 6% 5% 10% 14% 15% 16% Lifestyle Influencers. This may be due 18% 24% 6% 80% 9% to the natural relationship that these 11% 5% 14% 6% 8% brands have with the fashion industry. 13% 33% Fashion, Beauty, Lifestyle 14% 6% 7% 21% Not only did beauty brands such as Dior, 60% Beauty, Lifestyle 14% 7% Givenchy and Chanel begin as fashion Beauty, Fashion, 11%Lifestyle 10% Fashion, Lifestyle 7% 8% 55% 6% Beauty, Culture, Lifestyle houses, Power Players like L’Oréal also 7% 40% Beauty 77% 6% sponsor Paris Fashion Week. The most Beauty, Culture, Fashion 70% Lifestyle 6% 59% mentioned brand, MAC, also has a Number of Inﬂuencers % Culture, Fashion48%, Lifestyle 50% 44% history of having an extensive backstage 20% Culture, Lifestyle 38% 40% 26% presence during Fashion Month. 18%

0% MAC Make Up Dior Make NARS Beneﬁt L'Oréal Lancôme Yves Givenchy Chanel Forever Up Cosmetics Rocher Beauty Beauty

MEDIA VALUE BY CONTENT CATEGORY

100% Fashion, Beauty, Lifestyle 6% 6% 9% Beauty, Lifestyle 13% 16% 14% 22% 15% 9% 6% Beauty, Fashion, Lifestyle 80% 5% 6% 13% 6% 9% 10% Fashion, Lifestyle 13% 31% 14% Beauty, Culture, Lifestyle 6% 7% 20% 60% 14% 8% Beauty 11% 10% 8% 8% 6% 54% Beauty, Culture, Fashion 5% 8% 40% 8% Lifestyle 76% 69% 6% Culture, Fashion, Lifestyle 58% Number of Inﬂuencers % 49% 50% Culture, Lifestyle 45% 42% 20% 38% 29% 19% Source: Wearisma Data 0% Country: France MAC Make Up Dior Make NARS Beneﬁt L'Oréal Lancôme Yves Givenchy Chanel Timeline: Q4 2018 Forever Up Cosmetics Rocher Beauty Beauty

ENGAGEMENTS BY CONTENT CATEGORY

100% 6% Fashion, Beauty, Beauty, Beauty, Culture, 6% Beauty, Fashion, 5% Culture, 10% Beauty, Fashion, Culture, Beauty 14% Culture, Lifestyle Fashion, Lifestyle Lifestyle 15% 16% Lifestyle Lifestyle Lifestyle Lifestyle 18% Fashion 24% 6%Lifestyle 80% 9% 10 The State of French Beauty Influence, 11% 5% 14% 6% 8% a study by CEW France and Wearisma 13% 33% 14% 6% 7% 21% 60% 14% MEDIA VALUE BY11% CONTENT7% 10% CATEGORY 7% 8% 55% 6% 100% 7% 40% 77% 6% 6% 70% 6% 6%59% Number of Influencers % 9% 48% 50% 13% 44% 16% 14%20% 22% 15% 38% 40% 6% 9% 26% 80% 5% 18% 6% 13% 6% 9% 0% 10% 13% MAC Make Up Dior Make NARS Benefit L'Oréal Lancôme31%Yves Givenchy Chanel Forever Up Cosmetics Rocher Beauty Beauty 6% 7% 20% 14% 60% 14% 8% 11% 10% 8% 8% 6% 54% 5% 8% 8% 40% 76% 69% 6% 58% Number of Influencers % 49% 50% 45% 42% 20% 38% 29% 19%

0% MAC Make Up Dior Make NARS Beneﬁt L'Oréal Lancôme Yves Givenchy Chanel Forever Up Cosmetics Rocher Beauty Beauty

ENGAGEMENTS BY CONTENT CATEGORY

100% 6% 6% 5% 10% 14% 15% 16% 18% 24% 6% 80% 9% 11% 5% 14% 6% 8% 13% 33% 14% 6% 7% 21% 60% 14% 11% 7% 10% 7% 8% 55% 6% 7% 40% 77% 6% 70% 6% 59% Number of Inﬂuencers % 48% 50% 44% 20% 38% 40% 26% 18%

0% MAC Make Up Dior Make NARS Benefit L'Oréal Lancôme Yves Givenchy Chanel Forever Up Cosmetics Rocher Beauty Beauty L’Oréal, MAC, Chanel Beauty, ENGAGEMENTSENGAGEMENTS BY BY BRAND BRAND COMBINATIONCOMBINATION Lancôme and Dior receive higher levels of engagement when MakeMake Up UpForever Forever 180K180K MAC,MAC, Make Make Up Forever, Up Forever, Dior Dior Make Make Up, Up, NARS NARS 210K210K mentioned alone than when Cosmetics,Cosmetics, Benefit, Benefit, L'Or L'Oréal &éal Givenchy & Givenchy Beauty Beauty mentioned in combination with DiorDior Make Make Up Up 190K190K other Power Players. MACMAC & Make & Make Up UpForever Forever 130K130K

LancLancômeôme 190K190K

MAC,MAC, Make Make Up Forever,Up Forever, NARS NARS Cosmetics, Cosmetics, 24K24K BenefitBenefit & L'Or & L'Oréaléal Chanel Beauty 110K Chanel Beauty 110K MAC, Make Up Forever, Dior Make Up, NARS Cosmetics,MAC, Make Benefit, Up Forever, L'Oréal Dior, Yves Make Rocher Up, & NARSGivenchy 34K Cosmetics, Benefit, L'Oréal, Yves Rocher & Givenchy 34K L'Oréal 870K L'Oréal 870K MAC 300K MAC 300K Source: Wearisma Data Country: France 0 220K 430K 650K 870K Timeline: Q4 2018 0 220K Engagement430K 650K 870K Engagement

When analysing the follower groups of the Power Players, the majority of these are Micro- Influencers. Whilst American brand MAC has the largest share of Influencers in France, French brand NARS has the highest engagement rate (9K) and media value (12K) per Influencer. So, which Power Players are leveraging Influencer Marketing to the greatest effect and how are they doing it?

NUMBER OF ENGAGEMENTS AND ENGAGEMENTS PER INFLUENCER

NUMBER1.6M OF ENGAGEMENTS AND ENGAGEMENTS PER INFLUENCER 1.4M 1.6M 1.6M 9.0K 9.0K 1.6M 1.5M 1.4M 1.6M 1.6M 9.0K 9.0K 8.0K 1.5M 1.3M 1.4M 6.9K 8.0K 7.1K 1.3M 1.1M 1.2M 1.4M 1.1M 6.8K 6.9K 7.1K 6.2K 1.1M 1.2M 1.1M 6.8K 5.3K 6.2K 4.7K 4.8K 810K 5.3K 4.5K 790K 4.8K 480K 810K 4.7K 3.8K 4.5K 790K 480K 3.8K 2.7K 410K 2.3K 2.7K Number of Engagements

410K 2.3K Engagements / Influencer Number of Engagements 0 0 Engagements / Influencer 0 Engagements / Influencer 0 MAC Engagements / Influencer Make Up Forever TOTAL MEDIA VALUE AND MEDIA VALUE PER INFLUENCER Dior Make Up TOTAL MEDIA VALUE AND MEDIA VALUE PER INFLUENCER 2.1M 2.1M NARS 2.1M 12K 1.8M 12K Cosmetics 2.1M 2.1M 1.9M 2.1M 12K 1.8M 12K 10.0K 1.9M 1.6M Benefit 9.5K 1.9M 9.2K 1.6M 10.0K 1.5M 8.8K 9.5K 1.9M 1.4M 1.6M 9.2K 7.7K 1.5M L’Oréal 1.6M 1.4M 8.8K 10006.7K 7.7K 6.2K 1.1M 6.0K 5.9K Lancôme 10006.7K 680K 6.2K 1.1M 6.0K 5.0K 5.9K 680K Yves

Media Value (£) 5.0K 3.8K Rocher 530K 2.9K Media Value (£) 3.8K Givenchy 530K 2.9K Media Value / Influencer Beauty Media Value / Influencer 0 0 Chanel Media Value / Influencer Beauty Source: Wearisma Data 0 0 Media Value / Influencer Country: France Timeline: Q4 2018

Make Up Dior Yves Givenchy Chanel NARS L’Oréal Lancôme MAC Forever Make Up Cosmetics Beneﬁt Rocher Beauty Beauty Make Up Dior Yves Givenchy Chanel NARS L’Oréal Lancôme MAC Forever Make Up Cosmetics Beneﬁt Rocher Beauty Beauty

11 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Power Players Top Mentioned French Beauty Brands in Q4 2019

RANK

1 MAC 2 Make Up For Ever 3 Dior Make up 4 NARS Cosmetics 5 Benefit France 6 L’Oréal Makeup 7 Lancôme 8 Yves Rocher France 9 Givenchy Beauty 10 Chanel Beauty 11 YSL Beauty 12 Clinique 13 Estée Lauder 14 Maybelline 15 Marc Beauty 16 Nocibe 17 Clarins 18 Guerlain 19 Dior Parfums Source: Wearisma Data Country: France Timeline: Q4 2018 20 NUXE

12 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 1: MAC Cosmetics France

Estée Lauder Companies owned MAC is the most mentioned Power Player. Some of MAC’s success can be attributed to the fact that they have the highest amount of Micro-Influencers in the <20K and 20-80K follower groups. These groups have a high concentration of MAC’s own employees. For instance, MAC’s own avant garde Makeup Artists (MUAs) Marieke Thibaut (@marieke_thibaut) and Tom Sapin (@tomsapin) produce the most mentions for MAC. This shows that Power Players do not always need to look beyond their own brand for effective Influencers.

Interestingly, MAC’s French account (@ MacCosmeticsFrance) is the second most tagged beauty account by French Influencers. Even within the brand’s French account, MAC maintains their global outlook by consistently posting content from @maccosmeticsUK, @maccosmeticsItalia and @maccosmeticsES to name a few. An example of this is the new global Influencer programme launched in tandem with MAC’s Maker lipstick line which will see content created from Influencers in key regions across the globe, and includes ethnic minority Influencers such as the UK’s Patricia Patricia Bright Bright (@thepatriciabright), the USA’s Nyma @thepatriciabright

Tang (@nymatang) and the Philippines’ Maine 500K-1M followers Mendoza (@mainedcm). Therefore, MAC’s popularity among french Influencers can be attributed to this global approach which results in the creation of diverse and inclusive content that appeals to France’s increasingly diverse populace.

Nyma Tang @nymatang

250-500K followers

13 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 2: Make Up For Ever

Coming second overall (and first for France-based brands) is Make Up For Ever. The Parisian founded and LVMH owned brand creates content that features a diverse set of Influencers including male models Marlond Samedy (@_ mamomi_), Thomas Wilkinson Fullerton (@thomasjwf) and Nile Shadow (@nile_ shadow). This content is resonating well with the growing interest amongst male beauty consumers in the French audience, and it is therefore no surprise that Make Up For Ever has the highest amount of mentions per Influencer.

Make Up For Ever’s positioning as a ‘professional’ beauty brand could also factor into its success. Not only does the brand create content featuring Industry Insiders, it also enables its own followers such as Manon Cana Skovienova (@ manoncana) to obtain that professional MUA status via its Parisian beauty academy (@makeupforeveracademy).NUMBER OF MENTIONS AND MENTIONS PER INFLUENCER Their success illustrates that French 1.2K beauty enthusiasts appreciate education- 1.2K 4 4 focused and informative content.

870 3 3 3 680 560 510

580 2 2 2 2 2 490 480 460 420 NUMBER OF MENTIONS AND MENTIONS390 PER INFLUENCER400 1.2K 290 1.2K 4 1 1 1 14 Mentions / Inﬂuencer

870 3 3 3

Number of Inﬂuencer Mentions 680 560 510 0 0 580 2 2 2 2 2 490 480 460 420 Mentions /390 Inﬂuencer400

290 1 1 1 1 Source: Wearisma Data Mentions / Influencer Country: France Timeline: Q4 2018 Number of Influencer Mentions 0 0 Mentions / Influencer

Make Up Dior Yves Givenchy Chanel NARS L’Oréal Lancôme MAC Forever Make Up Cosmetics Beneﬁt Rocher Beauty Beauty

14 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 3: Dior

The third most mentioned Power Player is Dior. Dior ties with MAC as having the highest number of engagements (1.6Million) and media value (2.1Million). Unlike MAC, Dior achieves high engagement rates amongst Influencers like Fulvia (@lufyyyy) and Léa Coffrant (@jenesuispasjoli), rather than MUAs. Dior has the second highest number of Mega- Fulvia Influencers with 1M+ followings, while three out of the top @lufyyyy five Influencers producing the highest engagement for Dior 1M+ followers are Mega-Influencers. Dior’s social media campaigns heavily feature celebrities like Bella Hadid and Natalie Portman, and the promotion of such Mega-stars has a snowball effect of attracting the attention of Mega-Influencers with equally large followings.

Léa Coffrant @jenesuispasjoli

1M+ followers

15 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma NUMBER OF ENGAGEMENTS AND ENGAGEMENTS PER INFLUENCER 4.0M 4.0M 43K 43K 3.4M 3.2M 3.4M 3.0M 32K 2.5M 25K 1.8M 1.9M 2.0M 21K 19K 1.2M 13KDespite having less Influencers 14Kon Digital990K 9.9K average, our analysis11K reveals540K that Digital11K 7.3K 7.7K 900K Number of Engagements Giants Giants surpass the engagement3.9K rates and Engagements / Influencer 0 media value achieved by Power Players0 , suggesting that their useEngagements of French / Influencer Influencers is that much more effective. NUMBER OF ENGAGEMENTS AND ENGAGEMENTS PER INFLUENCER 4.0M 4.0M 43K 43K NUMBER OF ENGAGEMENTS3.4M AND ENGAGEMENTS PER INFLUENCER As a group, Digital Giants’ engagement rate 3.2M 4.0M 3.4M per Influencer is nearly three times higher than 4.0M3.0M 43K 32K43K 2.5M 3.4M 3.2M TOTAL MEDIA VALUE AND MEDIA VALUEthat PER achieved INFLUENCER by the Power Players. 25K 1.8M 1.9M 3.4M 3.0M2.0M 21K32K 2.5M 19K 4.9M 1.2M 4.9M 25K 14K Out of the three54K categories, Digital 54KGiants 13K 1.8M 1.9M 990K2.0M 9.9K 11K 4.2M 540K 11K21K have the highest amount of Mega-Influencers 19K 7.3K 4.1M 7.7K 900K Number of Engagements 1.2M Engagements / Influencer 3.9K 13K 14K in the 1M+ follower4.3M group. However, unlike the 990K0 9.9K 11K 540K 011K 7.3K 7.7K Engagements 900K/ Influencer Power Players, the Digital Giants are better Number of Engagements 3.6M Engagements / Influencer 41K 3.9K 0 3.0M 0 together. Our analysis revealed that brands Engagements / Influencer within this segment achieve the highest media 31K 2.3M 2.4M value when mentioned in combination with 2.4M 27K TOTAL MEDIA VALUE AND MEDIA VALUE PER INFLUENCER other brands, compared to individually. But 4.9M 24K 4.9M 54K 54K 1.5Mwhich Digital Giants are performing the best TOTAL MEDIA4.2M VALUE AND MEDIA VALUE PER INFLUENCER Media Value (£) 4.1M 17K 17K 4.9M 4.3M overall? 4.9M3.6M 1.2M 54K 41K54K 14K 14K 3.0M 4.1M 4.2M12K 640K 9.4K 1.1M Media Value / Influenceur 31K 9.2K4.3M 2.3M 2.4M 2.4M3.6M 27K41K 3.0M 24K 4.6K 1.5M

Media Value (£) 31K 0 17K 2.3M 2.4M 17K 0 2.4M1.2M 14K 14K27K 12K 640K 24K 9.2K 9.4K 1.1M Media Value / Influenceur 1.5M Source: WearismaMedia Data Value / Influencer Media Value (£) 17K 4.6K 17K 1.2M 14K 14K Country: France 0 12K 640K 0 9.2K 9.4K Media Value 1.1M/ Influencer Media Value / Influenceur Timeline: Q4 2018 4.6K 0 0 Media Value / Influencer NYX NYXHuda Beverly HudaToo Faced Kat Von BeverlyFenty UrbanToo FacedKiko TarteKat Von Morphe Urban Tarte Morphe Cosmetics Beauty Hills Cosmetics D Beauty Beauty Decay Milano Cosmetics Brushes Fenty Kiko Cosmetics Beauty Hills Cosmetics D Beauty Beauty Decay Milano Cosmetics Brushes

NYX Huda Beverly Too Faced Kat Von Fenty Urban Kiko Tarte Morphe Cosmetics Beauty Hills Cosmetics D Beauty Beauty Decay Milano Cosmetics Brushes NYX Huda Beverly Too Faced Kat Von Cosmetics Beauty Hills Cosmetics D Beauty

Fenty Urban Kiko Tarte Morphe Beauty Decay Milano Cosmetics Brushes

NYX Huda Beverly Too Faced Kat Von Cosmetics NYXBeauty Hills HudaCosmetics D BeautyBeverly Too Faced Kat Von Cosmetics Beauty Hills Cosmetics D Beauty Fenty Urban Kiko Tarte Morphe Beauty Decay Milano Cosmetics Brushes Fenty Urban Kiko Tarte Morphe Beauty Decay Milano Cosmetics Brushes

16 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma digital giants Top Mentioned French Beauty Brands in Q4 2019

RANK

1 NYX Cosmetics France 2 Huda Beauty 3 Anastasia Beverly Hills 4 Kat Von D Beauty 5 Too Faced Cosmetics 6 Fenty Beauty 7 Urban Decay 8 Kiko Milano Makeup 9 Tarte Cosmetics 10 Morphe Brushes 11 Jeffree Star Cosmetics 12 Make Up Revolution 13 Becca Cosmetics 14 Laura Mercier 15 Lime Crime 16 Kylie Cosmetics 17 Pat McGrath Labs 18 Charlotte Tilbury 19 Essie Source: Wearisma Data Country: France Timeline: Q4 2018 20 House of Lashes

17 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 1: NYX Cosmetics France

NYX Cosmetics’ French account is the most mentioned Digital Giant and their focus on consumer-generated content is a key element of their success. NYX has the highest number of Influencers with <20K followers, and this is reflected in the content that the brand produces.

For example, NYX Cosmetics’ French account frequently reposts content from Micro- Influencers and Nano-Influencers, including Viktoria (@viksenmua) and Margherita Schiaffino (@margherita_schiaffino_mua). NYX’s Sara Aziz suggested that reposting content from such Influencers emphasizes the accessibility and ease- of-use of their products by saying: “We give them the tools that enable them to go out and do it themselves”.

The top four Influencers producing the most content featuring NYX are MUAs producing avant garde and artist looks for the the eyes and eyebrows. These Influencers include the likes of Bordelaises MUA ‘MaybeArtist’ (@maybeartist__ ) and Freelance MUA Isley (@isleymua).

Viktoria @viksenmua

<20K followers

Margherita Schiaffino @margherita_schiaffino_mua <20K followers

18 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Source : Shophudabeauty.com No. 2: Huda Beauty

Only six years old, Huda Beauty is one of the fastest growing Founder Huda Kattan has maintained her Influencer status beauty brands in the world, and is the second most mentioned by continuing to blog about her own as well as other beauty beauty brand by French Influencers. Last year, the digital brands on her digital channels, and maintaining high levels of giant sold a small stake to TSG - Consumer Partners, whose engagement. This tactic adds another layer of authenticity reputation for acquiring small brands and turning them into to the Huda Beauty brand and, as highlighted by the data, is global forces is perhaps indicative of Huda Beauty’s increasing clearly enjoyed by French audiences. success.

Although false eyelashes were the first product from the brand, our analysis revealed that Huda Beauty’s #NewNudePallette was one of the most mentioned branded hashtags within the eyeshadow category. Similarly, the Influencers driving Huda Beauty’s mentions include Marion Moretti (@ marioncameleon) and Ioanna Kourti, (@nixevmakeup) who Marion Moretti create content with a focus on bold eye makeup. As a result, @marioncameleon Huda Beauty might find increased success in France by 500K-1M followers focussing on beauty Influencers with a similar niche focus.

19 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 3: Anastasia Beverly Hills

Hailed as one of the most engaging beauty brands, Anastasia particular collaboration is backed by the revelation that the Beverly Hills (ABH) is the third most mentioned Digital Giant, sold-out highlighter was recently relaunched. Last year, the earning 18.6 million Instagram followers since joining the social brand also collaborated with Kim Kardashian’s MUA and media platform in 2012. Like Huda Beauty, ABH can credit a Mega-Influencer (with more than 5 million followers) Mario lot of their success to high levels of engagement on Instagram. Dedivanovic (@makeupbymario). This method has tracked well with fellow Mega-Influencers, with ABH having the Where most of the Digital Giants can credit their success to a highest number of Mega-Influencers alongside Huda Beauty, diverse Influencer portfolio of Beauty and Fashion Influencers, Kat Von D Beauty and Tarte Cosmetics. ABH achieves the highest engagement rate and media value by having a strong focus on partnering purely with Beauty Influencers.

This finding appears to be replicated globally as a report by Octoly which found that ABH generated the highest number of posts (4,594) and interactions (7.38M) among US Beauty Influencers in March 2018.

Whilst the brand works with more than 600 Influencers, many of whom are up-and-coming, it’s likely that the brand’s collaborations with Mega-Influencers like Amra Olevic (@ amrezy) is a strong factor of its success. The success of this

Amra Olevic @amrezy

1M+ followers

Mario Dedivanovic @makeupbymario

1M+ followers

Source : Instagram/@Amrezy

20 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma NOMBRE D’ENGAGEMENTS ET ENGAGEMENTS PAR INFLUENCEUR 1.8M 1.8M 150K 150K 1.5M 1.3M 1.3M 1.2M 120K

83K 900K 77K 77K

Indie beauty brands are470K expanding at Indie 45K 450K 320K a rapid pace, with reports indicating 38K 190K 190K 58K 79K Nombre d’engagements that Small and Medium Sized Enterprises Engagements / influenceur Brands 15K 4.8K 0 2.7K (SME3.2Ks) make up more780 than 80%2.1K of all 0 cosmetic manufacturers in France. NUMBER OF ENGAGEMENTS AND ENGAGEMENTS PER INFLUENCER Engagements / influenceur 1.8M 1.8M 150K 150K NUMBER OF ENGAGEMENTS1.5M AND ENGAGEMENTS PER INFLUENCER As expected, due to their age, the Indie 1.8M 1.3M Brands have the smallest number of 1.8M1.3M 150K1.2M 150K120K 1.5M Influencers. However, our analysis revealed 1.3M83K 900K1.3M 77K 1.2M 120K77K that on average Indie Brands achieve a VALEUR MÉDIATIQUE TOTALE ET VALEUR MÉDIATIQUEhigher engagement PAR INFLUENCEUR rate and media value 470K 45K 83K 900K450K 320K 77K 2.3M 77K38K per Influencer than the Power Players, 190K 190K 58K 79K Number of Engagements 2.3M 15K 190K Engagements / Influencer (particularly Swedish independent190K brand, 470K 2.7K 4.8K 3.2K 45K 2.0M 2.1K 450K0 320K 780 38K0 Linda Hallberg Cosmetics), and cements the 190K 190K 58K 79K Number of Engagements

Engagements / Influenceur Engagements / Influencer 15K strength of brands within this segment. 2.7K 4.8K 3.2K 1.6M 0 1.7M 780 2.1K 1.5M0 140K Engagements / Influenceur Unlike the Power Players and Digital Giants, Indie Brands achieve a higher media value TOTAL MEDIA VALUE AND MEDIA VALUE PER INFLUENCER 98K from Beauty and 100KLifestyle Influencers 1.1M 2.3M 93K 2.3M 190K 190K suggesting that brands within this sector TOTAL MEDIA VALUE2.0M AND MEDIA VALUE PER INFLUENCER should work with French Influencers, with a 2.3M 1.6M 570K 1.7M 56K 140K 2.3MValeur médiatique (£) 450K 190K1.5M 190K specific focus on Beauty. 560KFashion, Beauty, Lifestyle 2.0M 47K Beauty, Lifestyle 230K 260K 75K 110K Beauty, Fashion, Lifestyle 98K 100K 1.1M 1.6M 93K Valeur médiatique / influenceur 1.7M 1.5M 140K Fashion, Lifestyle 18K Beauty, Culture, Lifestyle

Media Value (£) 570K Beauty 3.8K 5.9K56K 4.4K 560K 450K 98K 100K 47K 1.0K 3.0K 1.1M Beauty,0 Culture, Fashion 93K 0 260K 110K Media Value / Inﬂuencer Lifestyle 230K 75K

Culture, Fashion, Lifestyle 18K

Media Value (£) 570K Valeur médiatique / inﬂuenceur Culture, 3.8KLifestyle 5.9K 4.4K 56K 3.0K 560K0 450K 1.0K 47K0

260K 110K Media Value / Influencer 230K 75K Media Value / Influencer 18K 5.9K 0 3.8K 4.4K 1.0K 3.0K 0 Juvia’s P Louise Linda Black P Louise Zoeva Linda You Are Pixi Sugarpill GlossierJuvia’s Zoeva Cosmetic You Are CosmeticHallberg PixiBy Terry Black Sugarpill Hallberg Glossier Place Place CosmeticsBy Terry Cosmetics Beauty Up Cosmetics Beauty Up Cosmetics Brand Brand Cosmetics Media Value / Influencer Cosmetics

Mode, Beauté, Beauté, Beauté, Culture, Beauté, Mode, Culture, Beauté, Mode, Culture, Beauté Culture, Style de vie Mode, Style de vie Style de vie Style de vie Style de vie Style de vie Style de vie Mode Style de vie P Louise Linda Juvia’s Zoeva Cosmetic You Are Hallberg Pixi Black Sugarpill Glossier Place P Louise By Terry Cosmetics Beauty Up Juvia’s ZoevaCosmetics Brand Cosmetics Glossier Place Cosmetic By Terry Cosmetics Brand Linda You Are Pixi MEDIABlack VALUESugarpill BY CONTENT CATEGORY Cosmetics Hallberg Beauty Up P Louise Cosmetics Juvia’s Zoeva Glossier Cosmetic By Terry Place P Louise Cosmetics 100% Juvia’s Zoeva Brand Glossier Place Cosmetic By Terry 5% 7% CosmeticsLinda Brand Linda Black You Are Pixi 16% Black Pixi You Are Hallberg Hallberg Sugarpill 8% Sugarpill CosmeticsCosmetics Beauty Up 8% Beauty Up Fashion, Beauty, Lifestyle Cosmetics Cosmetics 24% 80% 8% 8% 7% 6% Beauty, Lifestyle

13% Beauty, Fashion, Lifestyle

60% 16% 70% Fashion, Lifestyle 86% 15% 35% Beauty, Culture, Lifestyle 92% 96% 11% 91% Beauty 40% 76% 14% 70% Beauty, Culture, Fashion Number of Inﬂuencers % Lifestyle 20% 39% 31% 32% 25% Culture, Fashion, Lifestyle 11% Culture, Lifestyle Source : Wearisma Data 0% Glossier Juvia’s Place Zoeva P Louise By Terry Linda Hallberg You Are Pixi Beauty Black Up Sugarpill Pays : France Cosmetics Cosmetic Brand Cosmetics Cosmetics Période : T4 2018

100% 5% 7% 16% 8% 8% 24% 80% 8% 8% 7% 6%

13%

60% 16% 70% 86% 15% 35% 92% 96% 11% 91% 40% 76% 14% 70% Number of Inﬂuencers %

20% 39% 31% 32% 25% 11% 0% Glossier Juvia’s Place Zoeva P Louise By Terry Linda Hallberg You Are Pixi Beauty Black Up Sugarpill Cosmetics Cosmetic Brand Cosmetics Cosmetics Indie Brands Top Mentioned French Beauty Brands in Q4 2019

RANK

1 Glossier 2 Juvia’s Place 3 Zoeva Cosmetics 4 P.Louise Cosmetics Brand 5 By Terry 6 Linda Hallberg Cosmetics 7 You Are Cosmetics 8 Pixi Beauty 9 Black Up 10 Sugarpill 11 Djulicious Cosmetics 12 Nabla Cosmetics 13 Colour Pop 14 The Balm 15 Nude by Nature 16 Olaplex 17 Gisou 18 Bali Body 19 Sananas Beauty Source : Wearisma Data Pays : France Période : T4 2018 20 Garancia

22 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 1: Glossier

Glossier is the top mentioned Indie Brand by French Similar to MAC, the individuals producing the highest Influencers and our data shows that Glossier achieves the engagement rate for Glossier includes those who currently or most engagements when mentioned by themselves than in have previously worked with the brand, including model Hera combination with other beauty brands. The ‘millennial cult Pradel (@herapradel) who features in of the brand’s campaigns favourite’ has rapidly earnd 1.7 million instagram followers (as and Glossier’s Head of Retail and Offline Experiences, Mélanie of January 2019) since their inception in 2014. Masarin (@melaniemasarin).

Rather than relying on celebrity endorsements and partnerships Glossier takes a personable approach to content, urging its with Mega-Influencers, Glossier founder Emily Weiss claims copywriters to engage with followers and consumers as if to “believe in the power of the individual. And if you have many they were ‘best friends’. Their positioning within our rankings [individuals] who are electing your brand, who are excited coupled with the fact that 80% of their growth and sales come about it and talking about it, then that is the equivalent of 10 from peer-to-peer recommendations or their own channels Kardashians.” The success of this tactic is supported by our suggests that this digital strategy is received well by French analysis which found that Glossier has more Influencers in the audiences. <20K follower group than the other Indie Brands.

Hera Pradel @herapradel

<20K followers

Mélanie Masarin @melaniemasarin

<20K followers

23 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 2: Juvia’s Place

Founded in 2013 by Nigerian born Chichi Eburu, Juvia’s Place is the second most mentioned beauty brand by French Influencers. Juvia’s Place is also the most mentioned black- owned indie beauty brand and the owner’s African heritage is heavily reflected throughout the brand with Egyptian Queen, Queen Nefertiti featuring frequently on the brand packaging. Therefore, it could be argued that the increased spending power of ethnic minorities in France is a driving factor behind the brand’s popularity. Source : Instagram/@JuviasPlace

Moreover, our analysis revealed that the top three Influencers producing the highest media value for Juvia’s place is Disabled Influencer Elsa Makeup (@elsamakeup), male Influencer Richaard (@richaard2609) as well as Emilie Lapuly (@ emilielapuly) who is a woman of colour. These results suggest that such individuals who have been historically ignored by Elsa Makeup the beauty industry should be recognised, particularly by the @elsamakeup emerging Indie Brands as the industry shifts towards being 500K-1M followers more inclusive.

Whilst the company produces lipsticks, brushes and highlighters, their standout products are their eyeshadow palettes. As our findings show that eyeshadows are among the most popular products in France, it is understandable how Juvia’s place achieved the number 2 spot in this list. The promotion of the brand by Mega-Influencer Nikkie de Jager (@nikkietutorials) who hailed the brand’s Magic Palette as Nikkie de Jager “the world’s most pigmented eyeshadow palette” was sure to @nikkietutorials be acknowledged by French beauty Influencers. +1M followers

24 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma No. 3: By Terry

By Terry is the most mentioned independent French beauty brand and the fifth most mentioned independent beauty brand overall. The brand was founded in 2000 by former Make Up Artist Terry de Gunzburg who launched the brand during her position as Creative Director of YSL Beauté. As the creator of YSL’s famous Touche Éclat highlighter pen, Gunzburg’s By Terry pays particular attention to innovation, offering high-tech products such as the Densiliss foundation, that has a dual function as skin care and as coverage. Such dual-functioning products or ‘Cosmeceuticals’ have obtained particular popularity in the French market. The fact that said products are considered to be the next wave of growth within the beauty industry may be another factor why By Terry and Linda Juvia’s Zoeva P Louise You Are Pixi Hallberg Glossier Place Cosmetics Cosmetic By Terry Cosmetics Beauty Black Up Sugarpill their focus on the technological element of beauty has earned Brand Cosmetics this position within our rankings.

Unlike the other brands across all three categories, By Terry NUMBER OF INFLUENCERS BY FOLLOWER GROUP

is the only brand that has more Influencers in the 20K-80K 24 follower group than the <20K follower group. This is supported 24 by our findings that the majority of Influencers who create the most content featuring By Terry have more than 20K 18 15 15 15 followers - thus suggesting that Indie Brands do not always 12 12 have to align themselves with Micro-Influencers in order to 12 gain traction online. 9

Number of Inﬂuencers 6 6 3 1 Instagram/@terrydegunzburg Source0 : Source: Wearisma Data 20K-80K Follower Group Linda Linda Juvia’s Zoeva P Louise You Are Pixi Juvia’s Zoeva P Louise You Are Pixi Glossier Country:Place France Cosmetic By Terry Hallberg Beauty Black Up GlossierSugarpill Place Cosmetic By Terry Hallberg Beauty Black Up Sugarpill Cosmetics Brand Cosmetics Cosmetics Brand Cosmetics Timeline: Q4 2018 Cosmetics Cosmetics

NUMBER OF INFLUENCERS BY FOLLOWER GROUP NUMBER OF INFLUENCERS BY FOLLOWER GROUP NUMBER OF INFLUENCERS BY FOLLOWER GROUP

24 2474 24 2474

18 5618 15 15 15 15 15 15

12 12 38 12 12 12 3712 9 269 23 Number of Inﬂuencers Number of Inﬂuencers

6 Number of Inﬂuencers 6 6 186 12 12 11 11 3 3 6 1 1

0 0 20K-80K Follower Group 20K-80K <20K Follower Follower Group Group

Linda Juvia’s Zoeva P Louise You Are Pixi Hallberg Glossier Place Cosmetics Cosmetic By Terry Cosmetics Beauty Black Up Sugarpill Brand Cosmetics NUMBER OF INFLUENCERS BY FOLLOWER GROUP NUMBER OF INFLUENCERS BY FOLLOWER GROUP

74 74 74 74 25 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEWNOMBRE Franc59e a D’INFLUENCEURSnd Wearisma PAR NOMBRE D’ABONNÉS59 56 56

38 24 38 37 24 37 26 26 23 23 Number of Inﬂuencers Number of Inﬂuencers 18 18 12 12 11 11 12 12 11 11 6 6 18 0 15 150 15 <20K Follower Group <20K Follower Group 12 12 12 9

Nombre d’abonnés 6 6 3 1

0 Groupe des 20K-80K abonnés

NOMBRE D’INFLUENCEURS PAR NOMBRE D’ABONNÉS

74 74

38 37 26 23 Nombre d’abonnés 18 12 12 11 11 6

0 Groupe des <20K abonnés 5 Wearisma’s Ones To Watch: Key Influencer Personas for 2019

26 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma LES INFLUENCEURS CLÉS EN 2019 Having illustrated which beauty brands are making the best use of Influencers in France, in this section we will identify 4 Key Influencer Personas in France that beauty brands should be working with in 2019. CATÉGORIE 1 : BEAUTY BOYS

Profile 1: CATÉGORIE 2 : SLESpe MUA cSPÉCIALISÉSialised MUAs

The Influencer that received the highest engagement rate (38.93%) for MAC’s French account and the third highest engagement rate for @anastasiabeverlyhills (22.45%) is Certified MUA Chloé (@chlooe_hearts).CATÉGORIE While 3 : self-taught MUA ‘MaybeArtist’ (@maybeartist__)LES INFLUENCEURS produces the highest DE COULEUR amount of content for NYX’s French account, what these two Influencers have in common is that they are both MUAs who specialise in eye and brow makeup and this specialization is reflected in their content.

CATÉGORIE 4 : LES ARTISTES AVANT GARDISTES

Chloé @chlooe_hearts

20-80K followers

Despite producing a range of products, brands like ASB have been able to build a strong social media presence based on content focusing on a singular feature, such as (eyebrows). MaybeArtist @maybeartist__ These results suggest that, specifically when promoting eyeshadow palettes and brow makeup, Digital Giants in <20K followers particular will find success by collaborating with Specialised MUAs who are able to provide a wealth of content focusing on this particular product category.

27 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma LES INFLUENCEURS CLÉS EN 2019

CATÉGORIE 1 : BEAUTY BOYS

CATÉGORIE 2 : LES MUA SPÉCIALISÉS

CATÉGORIE 3 : ProfileLES INFLUENCEURS DE2: COULEUR Influencers of Colour

Within France, ethnic minorityCATÉGORIE 4 : Influencer Salima Aliani (@salimaaliani)LES ARTISTES AVANT GARDISTES and Professional MUA Adjinaya (@ adjinaya) produce the second and fifth highest media value respectively for content featuring Power Player, MAC cosmetics. Minority Influencer Jadiz (@ jadizmua) produces the highest amount of content for Indie Brand, Juvia’s Place whilst ethnic minority MUA Elodie (@makeup_tendances) produces the second highest content for Digital Giant, Huda Beauty.

The top two Influencers achieving the highest engagement rate for content featuring NYX include ethnic minority Influencers Yanissa (@yanissaxoxo) and Mina (@viewfrom.mina). These findings, coupled with research showing that, in France, a lack of representation can cause ethnic minorities to consume less media, suggests that across all categories beauty brands should collaborate with Influencers of Colour.

Salima Aliani Mina @salimaaliani @viewfrom.mina

250-500K followers 80-250K followers

28 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma LES INFLUENCEURS CLÉS EN 2019

ProfileCATÉGORIE 1 : 3: BBEAUTYeauty BOYS Boys & Men

The expenditure per capita for personal care items of French men was reported to be twice as high as that of American men in 2009. Recent research has also indicated that the male grooming industry grew by 6,000%CATÉGORIE between 22012 : and 2016, and our results indicate that theseLES figures MUA SPÉCIALISÉS continue to climb.

Out of the top five Influencers producing the most content featuring NYX Cosmetics, more than half of those are male. Similarly, male MUA Raphael (@dolly__page) produced the highest amount of content for Tarte Cosmetics and Kat Von D and third highest for Anastasia Beverly Hills. CATÉGORIE 3 : Male Photographer Yves Kortum (@yveskortum) produces LES INFLUENCEURS DE COULEUR the highest media value for Make Up For Ever and beauty Influencer Richaard (@richaard2609) has the fourth highest media value and engagement for content featuring Huda Beauty.

CATÉGORIE 4 : LES ARTISTES AVANT GARDISTES

MUA Raphael @dolly__page

<20K followers

richaard @richaard2609

80-250K followers

Beauty brands, particularly Power Players and Digital Giants, should capitalise on this growing trend by working with Beauty Boys & Men who are often proven to be just as successful, if not more so than their female counterparts.

29 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma LES INFLUENCEURS CLÉS EN 2019

CATÉGORIE 1 : BEAUTY BOYS

CATÉGORIE 2 : LES MUA SPÉCIALISÉS

CATÉGORIE 3 : LES INFLUENCEURS DE COULEUR

CATÉGORIE 4 : ProfileLES ARTISTES AVANT GARDISTES 4: Avant Garde Artists

When analysing the Influencers performing well with Digital Giants, we found that Parisian-based MUA Anaelle’s (@ anaellepostollec) content featuring NYX cosmetics sits in the top five for highest media value and her more adventurous looks featuring NYX products achieve higher levels of engagement. Corentin Chotard @Le_Menestrel

Avant garde MUAs Marion Moretti (@marioncameleon) and <20K followers Corentin Chotard (@Le_Menestrel) achieved the highest media value and engagement rate for their eccentric looks feature Indie Brand Linda Hallberg Cosmetics.

However, our analysis shows that beauty Influencers do not have to create a series or even consistently produce whimsical content in order to be successful. Influencer @mai_tep, who mostly produces commercial beauty looks achieved the highest engagement rate for Tarte Cosmetics for her content Anaelle @anaellepostollec featuring halloween skeleton makeup. Pinterest’s Global Beauty Report 2018 found that Artistic makeup is up 88% in 80-250K followers France. These findings suggests that both Digital Giants and Indie Brands should pivot towards Influencers who embrace and incorporate more daring/artistic looks into their usual content.

30 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma 6 Crowd Pleasing Cosmetics: Which products work best with Influencers?

31 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Wearisma have found that, during Q4 2018, Influencers were more effective at pushing content featuring colour cosmetics than other beauty products.

This is supported by a report by Statista which has credited social media for a ‘noticeable upturn in the usage of colour cosmetics’, surpassing skincare to become the fastest-growing beauty category since 2012.

When embarking on an Influencer Marketing strategy, beauty brands should know that Skin makeup, Lip cosmetics and Eyeshadows perform best online with French audiences.

Source: Wearisma Data Country: France Timeline: Q4 2018

SHARE OF VOICE BY CONTENT COUNT SHARESHARE OF OF VOICE VOICE BY BY CONTENT CONTENT COUNT COUNT SHARESHARE OF OF VOICE VOICE BY BY MEDIA MEDIA VALUE VALUE Lips (Make Up)

Lips (Make Up) 1% Eye Shadow/Palette (Make Up) Lips (Make Up) 2% 1% Eye Shadow/Palette (Make Up)2% Skin – Colour (Make Up) 2% 1% Eye Shadow/Palette (Make Up)3%2% 20% 2% Skin – Colour (Make Up) Skin – Base (Make Up) Skin – Colour (Make Up) 3% 20% 5% 3% 20% Skin – Base (Make Up)5%5% Perfume & Fragrances Skin – Base (Make Up) 5% Perfume & Fragrances6% Eyelashes (Make Up) 5% Perfume & Fragrances6% 35% 35% Eyelashes (Make Up) Creams & Seriums (Skincare) Eyelashes (Make Up)7% 17% Creams & Seriums (Skincare) Eyebrows (Make Up) 7% 17% 8% 7% 17% Creams & Seriums8% (Skincare) Eyebrows (Make Up) Tools (Make Up) Eyebrows (Make Up)7% 7% Tools (Make Up) Nails (Make Up) 7% Tools (Make Up) Nails (Make Up) Face Masks (Skincare) Nails (Make10% Up) 10% Face Masks (Skincare) 9% Eyeliner (Make Up) Face Masks (Skincare) 9% Eyeliner (Make Up) 10% Haircuts & Styles (Haircare & Hair styling) 9% Eyeliner (Make Up) 10% 10% Haircuts & Styles (Haircare11% & Hair styling) 17% Soap & Showergels (Bodycare) 10% 10% 11% 17% 10% Haircuts & Styles (Haircare & Hair styling) Soap & Showergels (Bodycare) Hair Products (Haircare & Hair styling) Soap & Showergels (Bodycare) Hair Products (Haircare & Hair styling) Hair Products (Haircare & Hair styling)

Part de voix par nombre de contenu Part de voix par nombre de contenu Part de voix par nombre de contenu

1% 2% 1% 2% 1% 2% 3% 20% 3% 20% 3% 20% 5% 5% 5% 7% 17% 7% 17% 7% 17% 32 The State of French Beauty Influe7% nce, 7% 7% a study by CEW France and Wearisma

9% 10% 9% 10% 10% 10% 10% 10% Lip Cosmetics

Lip cosmetics are the ‘most discussed’ equivalent ‘rouge à levres’ is most associated with Sephora. These findings show that beauty brands, evidenced by Power products - generating the biggest buzz Players like MAC, should utilise Influencer Marketing for bold online. These sentiments are reflected in coloured lipstick launches in particular, as these products get a 2017 report from Cosmetics Business greater traction when promoted by French beauty Influencers. which emphasizes the key role that Our analysis also revealed that ‘gloss’ does very well in the lipstick sales have in boosting France’s realm Influencer Marketing and received 3 times the number cosmetics market. of mentions than ‘matte’ and ‘liquid lipstick’. Glossier is the top mentioned brand in this subsection of lip cosmetics. Indie A 2015 “Lipstick Colours Of The Year” report indicated that Brands like Glossier should capitalize on the effectiveness of Dusky Rose was the most popular shade in Paris. However, our Influencers to promote Lip Glosses, which are slated as being analysis of influencer attitudes reveal that French audiences a major makeup trend for Spring Summer 2019. engage most with content featuring bolder lip colours, with red being the most mentioned lipstick shade. MAC is the brand most associated with ‘Red Lips’, whereas the French

33 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Eye Shadow

With Lip Cosmetics being the most It is typically believed that French Beauty is defined by minimal makeup. However, this analysis suggests that beauty brands should talked about product, Eyeshadows collaborate with Avant Garde French beauty Influencers who are and Eyeshadow palettes receive able to create bolder looks that will allow them to effectively promote the most engagement from French their more popular, colourful palettes. audiences.

Huda Beauty leverages Influencer Marketing really effectively and is the most mentioned brand within this product category. For instance, Huda Beauty’s #NewNudePalette, which includes a brand exclusive ‘colour-changing formula with shimmering pearl flecks’, is currently the most mentioned branded hashtag, despite only being released a few months ago in November 2018.

The second most mentioned brand within this product sector is Anastasia Beverly Hills with the brand’s Norvina Eyeshadow Palette being among its 2018 bestsellers. Similar to the New Nude palette, the Norvina Palette contains “14 whimsical shades ranging from bold and bright mattes to soft pastel metallics”. The third most mentioned brand NYX cosmetics, which prides itself on its strength in producing vibrant colours, has ‘glitter’ as its most associated term within this product category.

34 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Source : Instagram @NYXCosmetics/@Alissa.Ashley Skin − Base makeup

The final product type that beauty brands them to promote the diversity of their product offerings, it will also appeal to ethnic minorities consumers in France are encouraged to promote through whose increasing purchasing has been described as a “great Influencers is Skin Base makeup products opportunity” within the region. (including foundations and concealers). Content featuring these products are particularly profitable and achieve the highest media value and third highest level of engagement.

The most mentioned brand within this product category is NYX, which recently partnered with African American beauty Influencer, Alissa Ashley for the release of its ‘Can’t Stop Won’t Stop’ foundation, complete with 45 shades. A significant reason for the online discussions surrounding range is not only the fact that it is among the largest shade range offered by any beauty brand, but it also contains 5 shades more than Fenty Beauty - who gained popularity by addressing the industry’s failure to cater to darker shades. It is important to note that MAC, the third most mentioned brand within this product category, also has a history of catering to ethnic minority consumers and in their 2017 Future Forward campaign, featured four women of color in the music industry: Tinashe, Halsey, Lion Babe and DeJ Loaf.

Therefore, it is suggested that when promoting Skin Base makeup, beauty brands should consider collaborating more with Influencers of Colour. Not only will this allow

Source : maccosmetics.com

35 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Conclusion

Increasingly, the digital conversation surrounding The role of Influencers beauty in France demonstrates a considerable within the French Beauty creative evolution. Signature French Influencer content now indicates a greater accent on diversity, matrix is crucial to the exploration, and innovation, with up-and-coming 7health of the market Indie Brands accruing an evermore powerful voice within the market. With so many Influencers and and indicative of wider brands collaboratively thinking outside the box, trends. and thus expanding the narrative of what French beauty truly encompasses, the industry is growing rapidly into much more diverse territories.

36 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Glossary

Influencers Brand Ranking Influencers are self-made publishers who make a living When ranking brands, we measure popularity by how often discussing and reviewing products as experts online. influencers are tagging a brand’s account.

• Beauty Influencers must have a significant following and are Brand Segmentation experts within the field of beauty, mostly discussing beauty We have split the brands into the three sections - Power products and trends. Players, Digital Giants and Indie Brands. This is because we • As experts in their fields, Influencers often use and review see a lot of disruption and innovation in these three segments. products for their followings organically, without payment Indie Brands exploding online to become Digital Giants or invitation by the brands. and then being acquired by Power Players (the brands who • Due to their position, Influencers can be paid by brands to traditionally top the sales tables). represent them, wear and review their products. Products Coverage not Sales When looking at products, we have focused on which products are mentioned most and generate the most media value by Influencer activity is not representative of a sales ranking - it Influencers. is simply indicative of the conversations that are happening online.

Based in France Our analysis covers the conversations of Influencers based in France. This will include French influencers and also non- French influencers who live, work and consume products in France.

37 The State of French Beauty Influence, a study by CEW France and Wearisma Wearisma was founded by a group of tech and digital media professionals, passionate about building the most intuitive influencer marketing technology that seamlessly fits into your organisations. We specialise in taking into account the nuisances of how culture, perception and quality differ by geography and by organisation. Wearisma’s technology combines analytics and intelligent automation with human creativity, and ensures that brands receive high-quality results and clear insights in order to create effective campaigns.

[email protected] [email protected] www.wearisma.com www.cew.org