the insider’s beauty bible

A Fairchild Publication

Leaders Outline Plans for Changing Times Shiseido’s Shinzo Maeda Victoria’s Secret’s Christine Beauchamp N.V. Perricone’s Shashi Batra Jurlique’s Eli Halliwell Frédéric Fekkai’s Melisse Shaban PLUS Fall Fragrances chief Edible Beauty Second Life executive agendas L’Oréal’s Jean-Paul Agon Plots a New Course for Growth Contents DEPARTMENTS 16 People, Places & Lipsticks Inside-out beauty, the lighting guru and an unsual take on the manicure. 20 What’s In Store Beach-ready essentials, artistic cosmetics and relief for stressed-out strands. 26 A Closer Look: Fragrance The comeback of classic flowers, not to mention the return of more celebrity scents. 52 The It List: Beauty Still Life Photographers When these artists get behind the camera, the results are more than just a pretty picture. They’re money-making masterpieces. 58 Last Call: Second (Life) Coming In our tech-savvy times, more beauty brands are embracing the undeniable tug of marketing products in a virtual world.

FEATURES 30 Agon In Command L’Oréal’s ceo sets the stage for a new era at the French beauty company. And the analysts weigh in. 38 Beauty CEO Pop Quiz What’s on William Lauder’s reading list? And how does Maureen Chiquet keep her cool? Beauty’s top brass reveal all. 40 Young & Royally Talented Say hello to four emerging beauty bosses who are taking the industry into new territory. Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer and Carsten Fischer flank ceo Shinzo Maeda, whose sweeping changes will soon be felt 44 Quiet Giant beyond Japan’s borders. After reorganizing Shiseido’s domestic business, ceo Shinzo Maeda is tackling China. The U.S. market is brightening up, too.

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, VOLUME 193, NO. 106, May 18, 2007, WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is pub- business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 lished daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online on th e cover Jean-Paul Agon June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World photographed in April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our sub- Paris by Roberto is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: scriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want Frankenberg. Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box Digital imaging by Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/ 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Execu- WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Jonathan Serrano tive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANU- at Strategic York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, Content Imaging. Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHO- addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 TOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTO- ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please GRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED

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 may 2007 contributors Michelle Edgar Associate Beauty features editor Pete Born “Fragrance isn’t like fashion where there are executive editor, clear trends for each season,” says WWD’s Beauty Michelle Edgar, who has written several fra- Having spent nearly 30 grance articles over the past year. “Everything years writing and report- is a little more blurred and happens over an ing for WWD, Pete Born extended period, so it’s harder to distinguish understands the historic what the trends are.” Despite the complexities significance of profiling of the task, Edgar did relish the assignment Jean-Paul Agon, who because of her own fascination with scents. “I stepped up just last year to love the mystery behind fragrance, and how it run L’Oréal, the perennial smells different to each person,” she says. “What world leader in beauty. I might like, and the smell it has on my skin, is When asked how many totally unique.” times he had written a major feature on Agon’s Megan McIntyre predecessor, Sir Lindsay assistant editor Owen-Jones, Born had “As the keeper of the keys to the beauty closet, I’m to take a moment to the natural choice to review products for the ‘What’s count out loud, to five. He In Store’ section,” says WWD Beauty Biz’s Megan explains: “I think they’ve McIntyre. The New York state native spends most only had five chief execu- of her time living every glamour girl’s dream of tive officers in the whole corporation’s life, so when you get a new ceo, researching the newest beauty offerings, as well as it’s a monumental event. This is a new era.” reporting on trends such as this month’s piece on the convergence of food and cosmetics. “I really enjoyed Betsy Lowther speaking with Horst Rechelbacher of Intelligent correspondent Nutrients for that story,” she says. “It’s so inspiring to WWD’s Singapore-based cor- listen to someone who is so dedicated to making an respondent Betsy Lowther profiled impact on the environment.” Shiseido’s Shinzo Maeda for this month’s ceo issue. “We tend to think Roberto Frankenberg of Shiseido just as a beauty brand, Photographer but to see its historical elements as Brazilian-born photographer Roberto well was fascinating,” she says. “[Mr. Frankenberg has a knack for capturing Maeda and his team] have done a simple yet elegant portraits of celebrities great job preserving that aspect of the and common folk alike. For his cover company.” Lowther’s research took shoot with L’Oréal ceo Jean-Paul Agon, her to the heart of Tokyo, where the Frankenberg was prepared to work quickly. popularity of Shiseido is at its peak. “When shooting ceo’s, you have to be very “The things they are doing are really fast since most give you very little time, and invigorating the [business],” she says. get impatient quite soon,” he says, adding “It’s getting a shot of adrenaline right that Agon actually defied the norm by being now, and it was exciting to witnesses “a very good model—cooperative, patient that for a few days.” and very kind.” Julie Naughton Pat Morgan Senior Beauty editor Illustrator This month, WWD’s Julie Naughton London-based graphic designer and profiled two ceo’s on everybody’s radar illustrator Patrick Morgan likes to “push screen: Christine Beauchamp of Victoria’s the boundaries of drawing rather than Secret and Shashi Batra of N.V. Perricone using photography,” which is just what M.D. Cosmeceuticals. Appearances, she he did for the profiles in this issue’s has learned, can be deceiving. “Christine young ceo story. When Morgan isn’t is very girly-girl, but at the same time she’s illustrating for magazines and advertise- a take-charge, no-nonsense business- ments, he’s running his illustration woman. And people think that Shashi is agency Farm and lecturing to students shy and quiet, but he’s a risk-taker, and at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan and he’s very plugged in.” It takes one to know London, passing along the craft to a one. “I love my job,” says Naughton. “No whole new crop of artists. It’s no surprise two days are ever the same. Lately, I’ve then that Morgan was impressed with been busy interviewing a lot of rap artists, his latest subjects: “The people being because so many are coming out with their illustrated are so young and influential,” own fragrance!” he says.

10 May 2007 the insider’s beauty bible

A Fairchild Publication

Pete Born Executive Editor, Beauty Jenny B. Fine Editor Kim-Van Dang Consulting Editor

Jennifer Weil European Beauty Editor Andrea Nagel Mass Market Beauty Editor Julie Naughton Senior Prestige Market Beauty Editor Molly Prior Mass Market Beauty News Editor Matthew W. Evans Beauty News Editor Michelle Edgar Associate Beauty Features Editor Faye Brookman Contributing Editor Megan McIntyre Assistant Editor Katharine Jones Editorial Intern Deborah Boylan Copy Editor

Contributors Samantha Conti, Brid Costello and Nina Jones (London), Stephanie Epiro (Milan), Miles Socha (Paris), Marcy Medina (Los Angeles), Katherine Bowers (Boston), Melissa Drier (Berlin), Georgia Lee (Atlanta), Holly Haber and Rusty Williamson (Dallas), Koji Hirano (Tokyo)

Art Andrew Nimmo Consulting Art Director Danilo Matz Consulting Art Director Pamela Olecki Consulting Art Director Anita Bethel Photo and Imaging Director Carrie Provenzano Associate Photo Editor

Photographers Pasha Antonov, John Aquino, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Thomas Iannaccone, Robert Mitra

Advertising Ralph Erardy Senior VP, Group Publisher Jay Spaleta Publisher Debra Goldberg Associate Publisher, Beauty Randi Segal Mass Beauty Director Ron Troxell Senior Account Manager, West Coast Amelie Barsi European Beauty Manager, Paris Michele Sutton Executive Beauty Assistant Bill Andrulevich General Manager, Fairchild Fashion Group Richard Cherichella Business Director, Fairchild Fashion Group Janet Janoff General Manager, WWD

Marketing/Promotion Jodi Marchisotta Associate Publisher, Marketing Danielle McMurray Creative Services Director Zoraida Walker Senior Manager, Marketing and Promotion Brooke Fitzsimmons Marketing Manager Lindsay Swartz Marketing Manager Benjamin Gelinas Design Director Mark Ramel Design Manager Dick Silverman Director of Special Projects Toni Nicolino Associate Manager of Special Projects Kathleen Callahan Classified Marketing Manager Maggie Gould Marketing Coordinator Lily Fleishman Marketing Assistant Andrea Kaplan VP, Corporate Communications

Production Gena Kelly Executive Director, Manufacturing and Distribution Chris Wengiel Group Production Director Cristina Tavares Production Director Jill Breiner Associate Production Manager Ahmed Pruitt Production Coordinator

Circulation Wendy Frank Circulation Director Richard Franz Circulation/Sales Director John Cross Fulfillment Director James Rossi Circulation Marketing Director Susan Kline Fulfillment Manager

Daniel Lagani President, Fairchild Fashion Group editor’s letter

View from the top To quote Chrissie Hynde of the pretenders: Some possible. Eli Halliwell, ceo of organic beauty company Jurlique, is happy things change. Some stay the same. After 10 years, I am back at Fairchild about that last development. He is profiled by Andrea Nagel, who also Publications. In the early days, I shared a cubicle with fellow beauty interviews Frédéric Fekkai ceo Melisse Shaban. Julie Naughton checks reporter Jenny B. Fine. Now, she is editor of WWD Beauty Biz, not to in with Victoria’s Secret Beauty ceo Christine Beauchamp (another new mention a new mom—to Philippa Blossom Locke, who was born on April mom!) and N.V. Perricone’s Shashi Batra. To round out the package, 20th. Since August 2005, after six years as beauty director of In Style Matthew W. Evans gives 10 more beauty chief executives a pop quiz, to see magazine, I have been running my own branding consultancy, KVD NYC what’s on their minds and their iPods. Inc. In addition to advising my fashion and beauty clients, I am filling in Michelle Edgar offers an insider preview of fragrances set to launch in for Jenny this summer while she is on maternity leave. Once again, we are the next six months. Get ready for some chypre thrills! Meanwhile, Megan sharing a cubicle. McIntyre negotiates the blurring lines between food and beauty, and The beauty business has also undergone some amazing changes during compiles both the “What’s In Store” section and the “It List” of top beauty the past decade. Within the last two years alone, two of the largest beauty still life photographers. Luckily for me, some things have not changed companies in the world—L’Oréal and Shiseido—gained new chiefs. In this, around here. Some of the best lensmen in the business remain staffers at “The CEO Issue,” we sit down with both men. Pete Born interviews Jean- Fairchild. Tommy Iannaccone shot “A Closer Look” and George Chinsee Paul Agon at L’Oréal headquarters in the Paris suburb of Clichy, while our snapped “What’s In Store.” Singapore correspondent Betsy Lowther flies to Tokyo to profile Shiseido’s Finally, we close the issue with a look at beauty’s new reality, the virtual Shinzo Maeda. one. Molly Prior (or rather, her avatar, Bunny Forwzy) explores an online Their in-depth interviews cover many topics facing beauty ceo’s today, marketing platform that’s already attracting Coty and L’Oréal. Maybe by from growing existing brands and driving sales internationally to pushing the time Jenny has her second child, WWD Beauty Biz will have become a innovation, making strategic acquisitions and marketing in new mediums, publication in Second Life! Until then, enjoy this issue.

all while keeping the troops happy and adopting as eco-friendly a stance as See you next month! Peace, Kim-Van Dang gettyphotoby images

14 may 2007 people, places & lipsticks Food for Thought ...and for beautifying your skin. “You are what you eat” takes on new meaning.

Imagine walking into a beauty first U.S. store, opening in SoHo, in June. boutique and walking out with a week’s worth In the meantime, there has been an influx of beauty-boosting groceries. Sound crazy? With of other beauty and food partnerships. companies like Origins and Korres launching Tarte has teamed up with Borba to launch edible items this summer and Sephora’s plans Inside Out, vitamin-packed lip glosses that, to introduce in-store “healthy and beauty when ingested (which gloss invariably is), bars” in its French doors this September, the purportedly fuels the body with essential notion is fast becoming a reality. vitamins. This month, DuWop partners What started out as a mild flirtation with herbal beverage brand Elixir Tonics (an “energizing” tea bag here, a collagen & Teas on Elixirstix, lip glosses infused with Chinese medicinal herbs to promote clarity, calmness, creativity and energy. “Organic food is healthier Another emerging trend is beauty lines and better for the planet. Why made from organic food. “[It’s] healthier and better for the planet. Why not use not use those same ingredients those same ingredients in personal care? Intelligent Sixty percent of what you put on your skin Nutrients in personal care?”—Lizz Starr is absorbed, so why not put the purest From teas to supple- thing on your skin?” says Origins’ Starr. ments to chocolate and energy bars (above), capsule there) is turning into a full-fledged “You can’t separate food from cosmetics. Horst Rechelbacher obsession as the lines between beauty and food Cosmetics are food and vice versa,” echoes has the wellness market continue to blur. If it’s well-received, Sephora will export Horst Rechelbacher, who founded Aveda and now runs covered. He offers a host of organic its “bar” concept, featuring about 10 brands of nutritional Intelligent Nutrients, a brand of topical and edible beauty ingestibles to boost supplements and drinks (including Fushi, N.V. Perricone aids. “You can use [our products] in your food and on everything from mental and Murad) to other countries. yourself. That’s what the game is. Why use petrochemical- clarity to sex drive. Lizz Starr, executive director of Origins global product based cosmetics? They’re toxic. Food is the alternative,” development, says, “When you think back, there [used to he says. If that is the case, then brands like his, Natural be just] topical treatments and prescriptions. With the Organic Edible Cosmetics, 100% Pure and Aqua Dessa introduction of dietary supplements in the last decade are prime for growth with products that aren’t or so, vitamins got sexier. Next, theyy were translated to just effective, but downright tasty, especially new forms like food—the birth of the ‘power bar.’ [Then, in the case of Aqua Dessa’s Hot Fudge companies expanded] the benefits of these ‘functional Antioxidant Mask. Let’s see your moisturizer foods’ from straight health to health and beauty.” do that. — Megan McIntyre Credit indie innovator Scott Vincent Borba and his “nutraceutical” waters and candies for pioneering this Origins and Korres modern hybrid category. In 2004, Borba introduced Origins (above) is skin-clearing and antiaging waters, which were quickly launching three versions snapped up by trendy retailers. Sephora set up special of good-for-you organic display coolers so that consumers could grab some beauty honey while Korres (below) is marketing water along with their waterproof mascara. Where Borba jams, instant drinks and dipped its toe, established brands are now diving in. even saffron. Origins is furthering its partnership with Dr. Andrew Weil with the July launch of Weil Bee-ings—three USDA certified organic honeys that aim to boost energy, digestion and immunity. Greek beauty brand Korres is

rolling out a full line of natural products, including jams, thomasiannaccone by Photos instant drinks and spices. It’s to be sold in the company’s Intelligent Nutrients For eco-conscious DuWop Elixirstix consumers, the brand These herbal-infused glosses is rolling out organic use traditional Chinese floral beauty waters medicine to promote inner and mood-enhancing wellness. They also make fragrances (above). lips look luscious. Organic hair care is next.

16 MAY 2007 what’s in store Redken UV Rescue Shim- mer Defense Daily Care Protective Lotion The best defense is a good offense. Apply prior to sun exposure Leonor Greyl Mousse and UV filters will shield hair Au Lotus Volumatrice and scalp from scorching rays Silicone- and alcohol-free, while a vitamin C derivative this light mousse uses lotus and ceramides repair damaged flower to volumize, tame frizz strands and split ends. ($14.95; and protect hair from UV 800-REDKEN-8) rays. ($32; 866-GREYL-US)

Aveda Smooth Infu- sion Conditioner Frizz begone! Tamanu oil conditions while organic aloe, maize and guar bean smooth down hair cuticles for a sleek effect. ($20; Aveda salons, spas & stores)

Oscar Blandi Trattamento di Jasmine Smoothing Hair Treatment Give your dried-out mane some summer loving with this fragrant treatment that also features smoothing grape seed oil and moisturizing olive oil. ($24; Jeffrey New York, Nordstrom, Sephora)

Fresh Cotton Shampoo Everyone’s favorite fabric now comes in a fresh-smelling, volumizing shampoo. Cotton powder gives hair texture while cotton seed extract smooths flyaways. ($26; Barneys New York, Fresh stores, Sephora)

Frédéric Fekkai Summer Ojon Rare Harvest Hair Zero-Humidity Tunu Elastik Flexible Frizz Control Finishing Hairspray Spritz hair with this alcohol- Using a rare rubber extract free spray to banish excess harvested from the Central moisture and thus, frizz. ($20; American Tunu tree, this Nordstrom, Saks, Sephora) elasticized hair spray features a flexible polymer that pro- motes bounce and movement. ($23.50; QVC, qvc.com) Tressed Out Summer sun, sea and humidity can be murder on your strands. Protect and repair hair with these smart warm-weather picks.

Compiled by Megan McIntyre; Photographed by George Chinsee. styled by danilo matz danilo by styled

20 MAY 2007 Sunny Days Makeup meltdown? No way! In the sweltering season, stock up on outdoor-friendly products, lightweight textures and beachy-keen shades.

Clarins Sunshine Fragrance Not only does it smell of summer, thanks to notes of Sicilian mandarin, grapefruit, Kiss My Face Sun Swat ylang-ylang and patchouli, SPF 15 Sun Screen but this scent also boasts & Natural Insect serotonin-boosting L-5-HTP, Repellent derived from seeds of the griffonia plant, to encourage This handy spray does double the happy feeling that also duty. It not only saves skin from Alba Aloe Vera comes with warm weather. UV rays but wards off annoying SPF 15 Sunscreen ($40; Clarins counters) flies and mosquitos, too. ($9.95; mass retailers) Head off a painful sunburn. Certified organic aloe vera soothes as a water-resistant broad-spectrum SPF protects you—on turf and in the surf. ($8.95; Whole Foods)

Be Fine Food Skin Darphin Tangerine Care Lip Exfoliator Aromatic Care This naturally good-for- Carrot oil restores elasticity you treatment features while tangerine oil tones oat proteins, sesame oil Bobbi Brown Tinted and exfoliating pineapple Lip Balm and unleashes an uplifting scent. This lightweight enzymes for baby-soft lips. Choose from eight moistur- blend absorbs instantly. ($19.99; CVS, cvs.com) izing, barely-there hues to ($75; Neiman Marcus) create truly kissable lips. ($17; Bobbi Brown counters)

Jane Be Pure Mineral Pillow Blush Look naturally flushed with this talc-free mineral blush. Korres Sweet Orange It goes on silky smooth and Sprayable Sunscreen won’t clog pores, in five Face and Body Milk wearable shades. ($4.99; mass retailers) Boost your color without sacrificing your complexion. This SPF 25 spray has titanium dioxide to deflect UV rays and aloe vera to nourish skin. ($23; Sephora) 22 MAY 2007 what’s in store

Mark Pop In Color Palette These mix-and-match shadows, Lorac Caribbean Heat liners and glosses, with spill-proof Bronzer Palette caps, pop into a sleek compact. This kaleidescopic compact (case, $6; pop-in shades, $5 each; houses three shimmery hues 800-MEET-MARK) for a glowing visage. ($28; Sephora, beauty.com)

Benefit Sheer Cream Blusher Contour your cheeks with these paint tube-like blush- ers in three wearable and blendable neutral shades. Yves Saint Laurent ($18 each; Henri Bendel, Nail Touch Nail Macy’s, Sephora) Lacquer Brush Pen Playing on the wildly successful Touche Eclat concept, these iridescent nail polish pens are quick and easy—just click down, then brush on. ($23 each; Yves Saint Laurent counters)

Clarins Summer Fever Lip Colour Palette These artfully swirled Guerlain by Emilio glosses make for paint- Pucci Meteorites Brush Yves Saint Laurent erly puckers. ($21.50; An Op Art aficionado? Then Palette Mauresque Clarins counters) pack this Pucci-designed brush for the Eyes and case for stylish touch-ups. With YSL’s Moroccan tile- ($35; Bergdorf Goodman, inspired eye palette, you can Neiman Marcus) create a mosaic of looks. ($57)

Paint by Numbers Awaken your inner Monet with master Sephora Summer painter-worthy Blockbuster Palette This megapalette contains cosmetics that will every eye, lip and cheek color conceivable so you can pull put you in an artistic a total Picasso on your face. ($36; Sephora, sephora.com) frame of mind.

24 MAY 2007 Estée Lauder’s Private Collection a closer look Tuberose Gardenia fragrances. need to be touched by nature,” says Isabel Lopes, vice president of evaluation at Symrise. “Consumers are seeking products with natural Fragrance expression and what better way than to capture the natural world in fragrance?” Be that as it may, she acknowledges the challenges of including By Michelle Edgar • still life photographs by thom as iannaccone natural ingredients in a commercial fragrance. These include cost and safety restrictions as well This fall, look out for oriental hybrids, a chypre revival and ecstasies in violet. But the as the availability of natural essential oils. “The usual suspects—celebrity and fashion designer scents—will launch in droves too. safety profile of natural ingredients have limits on the amount that can be incorporated into a fragrance,” Lopes said. “The palette of materials a ORIENTAL EXPRESS perfumer can use is smaller in comparison to the U.S. consumers are getting “more adventurous” wide variety available from other sources.” Still, with their fragrance preferences. According incorporating naturals might be worth the effort. to Karen Grant, NPD senior beauty industry Consumers can be captured by a single natural analyst, the market has seen a movement away note, such as a rose, that delivers “a natural from florals toward mossy wood and soft oriental signature” to the fragrance, she says. scents. Traditional and soft florals now make up Coty Beauty is one company attempting to half of the top 20 women’s fragrances, down from address increasingly environmentally aware 73 percent in 2003. “People are looking for more consumers and has solicited fragrance houses variety, especially when it comes to new fragrance to support this initiative. “We’re looking at new families,” says Grant, adding that the oriental brands that could embody the green movement category has experienced continuous growth to give a more authentic message and product over the past three years, as the top 20 women’s to consumers,” says Steve Mormoris, senior vice fragrances include 8 percent floral orientals and president of global marketing for Coty Beauty. 24 percent woody orientals. “We’re going beyond celebrity and luxury fragrances by inventing a new form of fragrance GENDER BENDERS that is a lighter olfactory experience and uses What is masculine and what is feminine? The natural essential oils and recycled cartons. The lines are blurring. Instead of challenging gender challenge is marketing all these concepts to norms by launching unisex scents—a concept consumers in a way that makes sense, but we explored by Calvin Klein with CKOne in 1994 believe the bulk of our product offering can and Jean Paul Gaultier with Gaultier2 just last contain more natural ingredients than other year—the industry is now offering women’s classic fragrances in the market.” fragrances featuring traditionally masculine CHYPRE & CHIC wood notes and men’s scents with edible and floral notes often associated with the fairer sex. Chypre fragrances are back in full force this fall, “There’s more creativity with the borrowing according to Veronique Ferval, International of male and female notes. You’re seeing notes Flavors & Fragrances’ director of fragrance now crossing the line,” says Kate Greene, vice development. “It’s a revival of old elegance but president of marketing at Givaudan, who cites in a way that’s more sensual and darker,” Ferval Abercrombie & Fitch as a new women’s scent says, citing Euphoria and Sarah Jessica Parker with a fougère note, something usually reserved Lovely as recent examples of the trend. She notes for men’s colognes. As for the boys who are that chypres are now in a range of new fragrances, raiding girls’ drawers, she names Jean Paul from textured florals to spicy blends to scents Gaultier’s latest men’s introduction, Fleur du that contain subliminal edible notes. “People are Male, which has an orange flower note, and looking for a level of sophistication, elegance and DKNY Be Delicious for Men, which prominently sensuality that chypres can bring.” sizes) resembles an Asscher-cut diamond and evaluation North America. “The use of classical features an apple note. “The rules are going away Lynn Kaufman, marketing director of fine will be sold at Saks, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman flowers, which became old-fashioned, is now chic a bit,” Greene observes. Which is not to say that fragrances at Robertet, concurs. “Today’s chypre Marcus and Leiber boutiques. again,” she says. “These notes were a luxury that masculinity is on the wane. “The trend to release scents are less animalistic. The new chypres are Michael Simpson, Fragrance Resources’ had been lost a little bit.” Classic flower notes can floral scents into the men’s world offers a new paired with much cleaner woods, mosses and rich vice president of marketing, says that thanks to be seen in launches for Le Labo’s Rose 31 and and refreshing option without being any less floral notes now,” she says, pointing to Badgley chypres, gourmand fragrances are growing up. Iris 39, Chanel’s La Pausa, and Black Violet from masculine,” said Rochelle Bloom, president of Mischka, Lanvin Rumeur and Serge Lutens “We see gourmand fragrances broadening this Tom Ford’s Private Blend Collection. The Fragrance Foundation. Chypre Rouge as examples. fall, as edible scents evolve from fruity expressions To celebrate its 50th birthday this fall, Parfum Luxury accessories company Leiber is toward scents with more depth. Woody and chypre Givenchy is restaging six of its masculine E A U N A T U R A L embracing chypre with the launch of its first aspects will dress up classic gourmand notes.” and feminine scents that helped establish the “Go green!” might be the fragrance industry’s fragrance this September. The eponymous scent, fragrance house a half century ago. While still VIOLET FEMMES next rallying cry. Oil houses from Givaudan featuring Italian bergamot as well as jasmine packaged in their original flacons, each formula Select celebrity scents from Coty (from top): to Symrise are seeing their clients tap into a Starlight by Shania Twain; L, a L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani and rose notes, was created by Karine Dubreil Retro flowers, such as rose, violet and iris, are has been tweaked by its original perfumer. The movement gaining momentum. “Various brands fragrance, and Covet by Sarah Jessica Parker. of Mane and was inspired by Leiber’s new fine also making a comeback, notes Dara Quinlan, collection includes L’Interdit, a perfume created

are positioning themselves to meet consumers’ matz danilo by styled jewelry line. The bottle (in 30-ml. and 50-ml. Firmenich’s vice president of fine fragrance in 1957 for Audrey Hepburn, containing notes

26 May 2007 May 2007 27 a closer look

of rose, jasmine and violet, along with a blend of women’s fragrance has ranked in the top five woods and grasses. Eau de Givenchy, Givenchy at Holt Renfrew. “It really reflects the house of III, Le De, Monsieur and Eau de Vetyver round Prada in every touch point of the brand.” out the collection. Saks also has a collection of luxury designer In October, the most classic of classic floral fragrances at the ready. “The brands are all fragrances, Chanel No. 5, will gain a hip young reflective of our store’s matrix since they are sister. Dubbed by executives as an “everyday synergistic to the ready-to-wear collections we luxury,” Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiére will carry at Saks,” says Kate Oldham, vice president incorporate all of No. 5’s original ingredients and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics — including rose absolute, jasmine, neroli and and fragrances. She’s excited by a new Fendi ylang-ylang — but rebalanced in a lighter, airier fragrance and Pucci’s whimsical entry. “It’s going formula by Jacques Polge. Housed in a 5-oz. to resonate with our customers. The new Estée clear glass bottle that’s reminiscent of the classic Lauder’s Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia silhouette but taller, it will retail for $125. is very pretty and Aerin Lauder will get a whole new customer into the business.” Other Saks fall CELEBRITIES RULE New men’s scents (from left): Polo Explorer, Issey fragrance launches include D&G’s The One, Tom Celebrity scents continue to be of importance Miyake L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme Intense, Mustang Ford’s women’s and men’s scents, Eau de Star by Azzaro Legend and Narciso Rodriguez For Him. for major retailers. This season, they’re hailing Thierry Mugler, Narciso Rodriguez For Him and from the world of music, film and fashion, says Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiére. Micheline Jordaan, vice president divisional I N T H E M I X merchandise manager of fragrances at Macy’s East. “A lot of attention has been paid to both Other fall launches for women include the bottles and outer cartons of new celebrity Unforgivable Woman by Sean John, Nina by fragrances,” she notes. As a result, the look of the Nina Ricci, Belle en Rykiel by Sonia Rykiel, new brands “will refresh the selling environment.” Guerlain My Insolence, Midnight Poison, Usher Coty Beauty has a busy fall ahead with the She, Emporio Armani Diamonds, Diesel Fuel launches of Starlight by Shania Twain, Intimately For Life Women, Missoni Acqua, Very Michael Beckham, Kate by Kate Moss and Nautica My Kors, DKNY Be Delicious Art, Jo Malone Voyage. According to Coty Beauty’s Mormoris, White Jasmine and Mint, World of Your Own the company is also relaunching Stetson this by Grassroots, Avon’s Christian Lacroix Rouge, fall with an ad campaign starring Patriots Banana Republic’s Malachite, Muse by Oilily, quarterback Tom Brady and new packaging. Jaeger London, Bulgari Omnia Améthyste, “It’s a whole new concept appealing to a more Monique Lhuillier, Leiber, yet-unnamed Roxy, modern customer around the brand’s Western Vivienne Westwood, Lacoste, Anna Sui, positioning,” he says. “The original Stetson Valentino, Gucci, Escada, YSL scents, plus La fragrance will stay the same, but we’re broadening Part des Anges by Thierry Mugler. Also, Procter its offering and adding different fragrances under & Gamble will be introducing a yet unnamed the Stetson house.” In the prestige women’s Women’s fall offerings (from left): Bulgari Omnia Christina Aguilera scent that is scheduled to Select Estée Lauder scents (from top): DKNY Be Delicious Améthyste, Belle en Rykiel by Sonia Rykiel, Emporio Art, Jo Malone White Jasmine and Mint, Very Michael Kors, market, Coty is launching Covet by Sarah Jessica Armani Diamonds, Christian Lacroix Rouge from Avon. launch by yearend. For men, fragrance launches Unforgivable Woman by Sean John and Missoni Acqua. Mane’s Yü fragrance. Parker, Marc Jacobs Modern Gardenia, and this fall include Tom Ford for Men, Usher L, a L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani fragrance. The He, Polo Explorer, Diesel Fuel For Life Men, company is also introducing a still-to-be named Mustang, Azzaro Legend, Banana Rebublic’s adapting it for individual [taste].” Bendel’s will and natural pheromone enhancer Escentric according to Lori Mariano, general manager of Calvin Klein men’s fragrance. Cordovan, Zegna Intenso by Ermenegildo Zegna, be the only retailer to carry the collection on the Molecules from London. “It barely has a [smell] Perfect Sense, a division of Mane responsible for Narciso Rodriguez For Him, Issey Miyake East Coast. Prices range from $45 for a 0.5-oz. to it, but it’s designed to work with your body’s fragrance concepts, products and distribution. DESIGNER NEWS L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme Intense and to-be- pure perfume roll-on to $75 for a sampler box set individual fragrance,” says Burstell. “We won’t be replacing the existing market’s A host of other fashion designers are launching announced Lacoste, Paul Smith and Escada with three 0.25-oz. pure perfume roll-ons. A body The trend toward more alternative scents traditional manufacturers, but we think there scents this fall. Shelley Rozenwald, senior vice scents. moisturizer and shower gel will also be available is something that Martha Basanta, Drom are opportunities for fragrance houses to do such president and general merchandise manager for $28 each. Fragrances marketing manager, is definitely a thing,” she says. Only 500 crystal bottles of GETTING PERSONAL of cosmetics and beauty services for Canadian Bergdorf Goodman is banking on exclusive noticing. Consumers are longing for a unique the “woody floral” scent, numbered and housed retailer Holt Renfrew, is also excited for the fall For consumers seeking a path less traveled, fragrances, too. “The whole idea of niche and fragrance experience, she says, citing Le Labo, in a solid birch box lined in leather, is available launch of Dsquared2 Perfumes new men’s scent. Henri Bendel is bringing in Memorie Liquide, luxury brands is still going, which will lead to Frederic Malle, Juliette has a Gun and CB I Hate worldwide. The ingredient blend includes Dsquared2’s fashion sense is apparent in the a bespoke perfume collection by Robin Coe- an exciting season,” says Ed Burstell, senior vice Perfume as examples of out-of-the-box thinking champaca from Indonesia, jasmine absolute fragrance bottle and packaging, which features a Hutshing, owner and creative director of Studio president and general merchandise manager that she believes will challenge the fragrance from India, genet absolute from Italy and Mysore wooden frame around the glass bottle, she says. at Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Calif., and her of beauty, jewelry and accessories. “It’s more industry. “Niche perfumery is opening doors sandalwood from India. “This is an opportunity “Their first fragrance has a wide appeal to men sister Jennifer Coe next month. Its blending bar about rare ingredients with Tom Ford’s Private to alternative brands where philosophies are for us to showcase our heritage and ability to from their 20s to 50s since it’s contemporary will house 150 essential scents that can be mixed Blend collection and other brands like Guerlain different from the norm,” she says. blend rare natural ingredients,” says Mariano. and sexy.” Rozenwald is also looking forward to a and matched to the individual. “It’s about having and Jo Malone.” Bergdorf will offer women “We have a desire to bring perfumery back to LIMITED EDITION new Prada women’s launch. WWD has learned a signature fragrance that’s completely unique Tom Ford Voile de Fleur, Monique Lhuillier, what it once was.” The fragrance, exclusive to through other sources that it will be called Prada to you,” says Claudia Lucas, senior vice president Hermés’ Kelly Caleche and Guerlain’s L’Art de Finally, the 136-year-old French oil house Mane is Bergdorf Goodman’s personal shopper program Infusion d’Iris. “Its elegant green packaging is and general merchandise manager of beauty for Materials Iris Ganache, in addition to the unisex breaking the mold by marketing its own women’s since April, will launch in Hong Kong’s Lane really refreshing and will stand out among other Coty’s Intimately Beckham for her and for him. Bendel’s. “This offers a menu of fragrances [that Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa. New brands fragrance, a $5,000 a bottle creation called Yü, Crawford in June plus select Nordstrom stores brands,” she says, adding that the original Prada customers can] choose from and then tweak, include Emilio Pucci Vivara, Ormonde Jayne, the Chinese word for rain or precious drops, and NYC’s Aedes de Venustas in September.

28 May 2007 May 2007 29 agon I n C o m m a n d

By Pete Born Photographed by roberto Frankenberg

A lifelong sailor, Jean-Paul Agon, chief executive officer of L’Oréal, has no fear of uncharted waters, even in the roughest of seas. Business conditions are far from serene, in the view of financial analysts. Lurk- ing beneath the surface is growing competition, particularly in the U.S., where mass is heating up, especially with private label brands, hair care share wars and the persistent challenge to L’Oréal’s dominance by archrival Procter & Gamble. But Agon exudes the confidence of a new chief who finished his first year with a resounding exclamation—an 11.9 percent increase in profits to 1.83 billion euros, or $2.3 billion, on a sales gain of 8.7 percent to 15.79 billion euros, or $19.84 billion. During a recent far-ranging interview in his 10th-floor office at L’Oréal headquarters in the Paris suburb of Clichy, he seems at ease—poised and affable, quick to laugh and show flashes of wit. He has a ready smile and always seems charming. But as his friend Publicis Groupe president Maurice Levy cautions, Agon’s affable personality and Latin warmth cloaks an iron determination. “He will not abandon his position until he has the solution,” Levy warns. For a man of his obvious drive, Agon can seem laid back. He likes to spend his summer holiday sailing through the Greek Islands, bantering with his crew in their native tongue. That same down-to-earth openness allows him to feel completely at ease in a humble taverna in Astoria, Queens. Above all, a piercing intelligence enables him to frame complex issues adroitly, with his favorite punch line: “It’s simple.” Optimism comes naturally to Agon, who started his career at age 25, struggling

30 May 2007 FEBRUARY 2007 31 to make something of L’Oréal’s tiny, flyspeck of a while discussing China, India, Brazil, Mexico and “Because she invented a brand that was different business in Athens. He steadily rose up through “The first part Russia. “Because of the transfer of wealth around from the existing brands, either in mass or luxury, the ranks for 29 years, wrestling with the chal- is to make the world, these markets opened up 10 or 15 years she realized that in order to communicate the lenges of one division after another, to finally take ago, but it’s really now that they’re booming in values and maximize the experience of her brand, the helm last April. L’Oreal an terms of economic growth. This economic boom she needed to sell it in her own stores.” It’s a job that he has been groomed for by Sir even greater creates new social classes and new categories of Agon says he would be open to adding a retail Lindsay Owen-Jones, his charismatic predeces- consumers who now have access to our products. component to other brands, but “we have our plate sor who, during his 22 years as ceo, transformed business. The This is a historic opportunity. quite full with the Body Shop.” He describes the L’Oréal from a French export power to the indus- second part “We still have the ambition to grow our business chain, which has 2,250 stores in 50 countries, try leader of globalized brands and who remains in North America and Europe,” he continues, “but as “the absolute worldwide leader of masstige— the company’s chairman. Now the 50-year-old is to make if you’re able to grow your business in the rest of between mass and prestige and a real channel Agon is steering Owen-Jones’ L’Oréal through the the world by between 12 percent and 15 percent a in itself.” chop of the 21st century, predicated on his vision the L’Oreal year, mathematically it helps you a lot. It acceler- Still, he sees unlimited potential. “Body Shop is of the company’s vibrancy and how it lives in the experience ates your growth worldwide.” very small in North America. They have no stores world. “The first part is to make L’Oréal an even Since he was named ceo, market sources have in South America and are still quite small in Asia,” greater business success,” he says. “The second a great speculated about the possibility of L’Oréal making he says, reiterating that the company could be part is to make the L’Oréal experience a great sat- satisfaction more acquisitions. “It’s kind of a paradox,” he says. doubled to 5,000 doors. isfaction for the employees, more than ever a great “But an acquisition for us is first and foremost Reached in London, Roddick describes her place where people really can have great personal for the an opportunity for future organic growth. We’re current role in L’Oréal-owned Body Shop: “I’m and professional lives.” The third part is to make employees... not looking for an acquisition that increases our an agitator, a s--t stirrer and a rabble-rouser. My L’Oréal “a great citizen of the world,” Agon says. size,” he says, underscoring the point by citing job is to do what I’ve always done here—to collect “The leading beauty company also has to take The third part Maybelline New York as an example. The color stories, myths and legends.” care of the beauty of the world. We cannot just be cosmetics brand was doing a little less than 200 The crusader and beauty maven notes that focused on our own success or our own satisfac- is to make million euros when Owen-Jones decided it could her controversial decision to sell to one of the tion. We also have to share with who’s around us L’OrEal a go global. Now a decade later, it’s number one in multinationals she’d derided in the past was in- and to contribute to make the world a little bit the world with 1.4 billion euros or $1.9 billion in fluenced by the respect shown to her by L’Oréal’s better, a little bit more beautiful.” great citizen... sales. For 10 years, the Maybelline acquisition has top brass. “They didn’t use BlackBerrys during Following in the footsteps of Owen-Jones may to take care fueled the organic growth of the company. discussions,” she recalls. “They were well-man- seem daunting, but Agon stepped right in, at least “We have to be opportunistic and pragmatic, and nered and seductive.” in the view of the maestro himself. “Jean-Paul of the beauty if there are opportunities to attack new segments As for the U.S., which has been seen as some- really did have a very successful first year,” says of the world.” or new markets or with a new positioning that we thing of an Achilles’ heel for the Body Shop, Agon Owen-Jones, adding that “He justified the confi- don’t have in our portfolio, we should look at it,” he acknowledges that America is the country “where dence I had placed in him. Right away he found continues. Agon adds, “Sometimes people think masstige was born” and therefore, the toughest the right combination between modesty and ambi- In promising Wall Street organic sales growth that we won’t be able to use our money because competitive market. tion, and between continuity and renewal. People of 6 to 8 percent a year, Agon plans on hitching there are no targets in the beauty industry. I don’t He adds, “From what I know, The Body Shop followed him immediately and instinctively. The L’Oréal’s marketing engine and financial muscle to agree. There are and will be interesting opportuni- had difficulties more in the execution of the strat- y free/corbisy

company didn’t miss a beat. He gave a new sense the emerging markets outside of L’Oréal’s bastions ties,” he says, declining to give examples. lt egy. At the same time as we are able to fix our own of dynamism to an already successful model, with in Western Europe and North America, what the Instead, he points to L’Oréal’s three major issues and get it right, the U.S. will be one of the a lot of energy and youth.” company has referred to as the rest of the world. moves in 2006, the acquisition of The Body Shop, most interesting markets.” Indeed, Agon has set out to map a new world ”We computed that every year, roughly 70 million Laboratoires Sanoflore and the license with Diesel. Asked how L’Oréal can use its strong suit of apply- of opportunity fueled by the emerging markets of new [consumers] in the world gain access to a The Body Shop deal caused the most stir because ing research and development to add value without China, India, Russia, Brazil and Mexico. He has level of income that allows them to buy our brands at first blush, it appeared that L’Oréal was flirt- nudging up prices or alienating the constituency of also blazed new avenues of growth in the masstige and products,” Agon says, noting that globalization ing with retailing. But Agon has been tireless in what has been an anti-animal testing, anti-science segment with the acquisition of The Body Shop is one of the most powerful cylinders in the L’Oréal knocking down that notion. A retailer, like Macy’s brand, Agon tackles the issue head-on. and in the rapidly emerging “bio-organic” category growth engine. and Wal-Mart, sells the brands of others, he main- “I think the opposite, he says. “It’s a great of products. In the process, L’Oréal seems to be These “other” markets are already larger in tains. The Body Shop simply is a brand with an opportunity for us because of the weakness of our o frankenberg;o roya by pacifier morphing from a company that was founded 98 sales volume than North America. “They are now integrated distribution system with its own retail t competitors in the masstige segment is the lack of years ago by Eugène Schueller, a chemist who almost 30 percent of our business, and contribute outlets, no different from Kiehl’s, Gucci, Chanel or innovation, quality and star products.” His second invented the first synthetic hair dye, into an orga- to 60 percent of our growth.” He predicts that Hermès. “Who ever said that Hermès is a retailer?” point involves an admitted shift in direction for nization that employs nearly 3,000 scientists in one day—“very soon”—the emerging markets will Agon asks. “They believe that in order to commu- rober by o L’Oréal toward marketing natural products. “The t 30 different disciplines practicing a more holistic generate 50 percent of L’Oréal’s volume. nicate the magic of the brand, it’s very important L’Oréal mission is to bring quality and innovation definition of science designed to also harness the “What we’re seeing right now is a completely to sell the brand in their own stores.” Alluding to to all consumers, whatever their choices or prefer- gonpho power of natural ingredients. new condition of the worldwide economy,” he says, the Body Shop’s founder, Anita Roddick, he says, A ences,” he says, “and there is a growing tendency

1907-1909 1909 The “Société Française April 1939 1956 Jean-Paul 1957 Following 1960 Elnett 1963 L’Oréal is introduced to 1965 Guy Laroche Perfumes is 1970 1974 An agree- L’Oréal: Eugène de Teintures Inoffensives pour SNC Schueller Agon is born in the the death of hair spray is the New York Stock Exchange. The created. With the launch of Fidji, Biotherm is ment gives Mme. Schueller Cheveux” that had been and Spery Parisian suburb of Eugène Schueller, launched. To stock market capitalization of the the group becomes involved in purchased. Bettencourt and her history of works on created by Eugène Schueller becomes S.A. Boulogne-Billancourt. François Dalle date, more than group has multiplied by 100 since the creation and development of family 51% and Nestlé a beauty the first becomes the group L’Oréal L’Oréal. becomes president- two billion cans then. L’Oréal signs a partnership 1964 Lancôme is perfumes for the first time. Today, 49% of the holding hair dye to on July 30th. Collective director general of Elnett have agreement with the Kobayashi Kose purchased. L’Oréal fragrance brands include company Gesparal, powerhouse be contained name for the company: of L’Oréal at been sold, in company for the distribution of its L’Oréal also takes Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, which today owns in one bottle. SNC Schueller and Spery. age 39. 100 countries. products in Japan. over Garnier. Cacharel and Lancôme. 53.7% of L’Oréal.

32 May 2007 May 2007 33 in the world for consumers wanting natural ingre- salon hair care line to choose from when it gies to that. And that’s what we’re doing.” players in the market and that’s fine.” dients.” He continues, “Some people really want acquired PureOlogy, aimed at women with color- He points out that more than one-third of One question that hovered over Agon’s the best of technology because they want the best treated hair. L’Oréal’s brands don’t depend on traditional ascendancy was how well he could work with results. Other people just want something that is Agon’s lofty vision will have to be propelled to advertising and, in many cases, are going digital. Owen-Jones, 61, who remains chairman. In the organic and natural. The L’Oréal mission should fruition by the piston power of the L’Oréal finan- As for electronic retailing, L’Oréal did 75 million words of both men, it’s just fine. “We are doing be to bring quality to all these consumers.” cial machine. Agon maintains that the L’Oréal euros , or $102 million, worldwide last year, mostly exactly what we said we would do,” Agon says. In expanding the scope of R&D, Agon seems business model, as created by Owen-Jones, with brands that target a younger demographic, “He’s doing exactly what he said he would do. He’s to be leading L’Oréal into new territory. “Science consists of six cylinders: scientific innovation, like Kiehl’s. in charge of all the relationship with the share- can be what it chooses to be,” he said. “Science can product creation, the power of “a portfolio of Much has been made on Wall Street about holders, with the board. We discuss together key bring high technology to people who want this amazing brands,” the ability to create added value, upstart indie brands, like Bare Escentuals, the strategic decisions regarding acquisitions, regard- or science can bring the best of nature to people the power of globalization and acquisitions, or the mineral makeup concept that quickly shot to over ing key human resource issues. We meet once a who want organic products.” He described a new Agon On O-J “cherry on the cake that allows us always to find $300 million in sales. Asked how he can build in O-J On Agon week and we have absolutely no conflict.” upcoming line of products as “a great combination new territories, new segments and new categories enough flexibility in the huge L’Oréal machine to Agon praises Owen-Jones’ decision to step of Body Shop values and L’Oréal expertise.” “He’s doing exactly what on which we can build our future expansion.” He compete with nimble entrepreneurs, Agon says, “People followed him down and hand over power as “absolutely a mir-

That marriage concept was also applied to the counts L’Oreal Paris as “the number one beauty imagesy “We said, ‘Wow’, this lady had a great idea, we acle. And he has never changed his mind. That’s acquisition of Laboratoire Sanoflore. It is minis- he said he would do. brand in the world” and Lancôme as the world’s tt should have had this idea. But okay, we had 100 imediately and instinct­ a fantastic example of strength and determina- cule, with a sales volume of only 15 million euros, or We discuss together key top prestige brand. others. So you can’t always have ALL the ideas and ively....He gave a new tion,” says Agon, who attributes their bond to the orbis ag by ge by ag C

$20.3 million at current exchange, Agon concedes, Some critics question whether that machine l you can’t prevent other people from being clever. It quality of a relationship that goes back 20 years. but it’s one of the French leaders of the budding strategic decisions.... needs retooling for the Internet age. Specifically, doesn’t change the business model because there sense of dynamism to an When asked how their management styles differ, bio-organic market and has been earmarked by We have absolutely how can a company cope with the apparent price was one Bare Escentuals in the past five years.” already successful model, Owen-Jones says, “A ceo of a cosmetics company ka/zefa/ ; french; f L’Oréal to be the leader of a new category. “In our polarization, as consumers seem to opt for either l His prescription for corporate flexibility is shares his time between the conceptual part, the portfolio, each brand is a champion of its position- no conflict. [His inexpensive mass brands or ultra-pricy specialty K u decentralization. “We’re not a big machine. We’re with a lot of energy and development of worldwide brands, and the CORBIS ing.” He notes that Sanoflore’s bio certification decision to hand over store models. Many of L’Oréal’s brands sit squarely hias a flotilla of boats. When you visit our divisions, you youth....As Jean-Paul says, terrain, visiting the brands. He spends a little tt imposes “some very clear restraints; L’Oréal can in the unpopular middle. a don’t see a big structure with one man in charge more on the second and a little less than on the M bring even within these constraints more efficacy, power is] a fantastic That question drew a quick and animated mann/ of everything. You see almost completely autono- ‘He is not as nice as people first. He seems a lot cooler and laid-back. As Jean- tt e B more quality.” example of strength and response. “It’s absolutely just wrong,” he replies. by ag mous brands and divisions and each brand is made think and I am not as Paul says, ‘He is not as nice as people think and I l

Speaking of how definitions have broadened in “The segment of cheap brands is not expanding by of a team that is completely fanatical.” am not as tough as people think.’”

determination.” is t tough as people think.’” the L’Oréal labs, Agon says, “It’s not only about the anywhere in the world. The private labels are not t During a February meeting with security ana- Both Wall Street analysts and L’Oréal executives chemistry, that’s the past. The science of beauty expanding that much and when they are, they’re lysts, Agon outlined the difficulties in the American talk about the seamlessness of the transition, par- today is about chemistry but it also is about taking share from the very cheap brands.” scien ; market, stemming mostly from the consolidation ticularly in New York where Agon’s last post was as biology, it’s about natural ingredients, it’s about “On the top of the pyramid, it’s true that we’ve of department stores. He followed up in the in- ceo and president of L’Oréal USA. More than one dermatology. If you meet our scientists, you will La Roche-Posay and it will be another brick in the been seeing recently the expansion of very expen- CORBIS terview, saying, “when Federated [Department egory where trading up has happened,” Agon said. executive there says, “It’s like he never left.” find all types of disciplines. The science of beauty L’Oréal building.” sive brands, but it’s not a question of polarization. Stores Inc.] and May [Department Stores Co.] “When you see what is the skin care market today, There is also talk in the industry about Agon’s is very, very comprehensive today.” L’Oréal’s edict for global propositions of high It’s just a question of permanent trading up. People merged, this clearly creates some turbulence in compared to what it was five years ago or even 10 easy accessibility, compared to the latter years ouders/ S . homasiannaccone;german f t He then drew a parallel with one of the champi- organic potential does have its exceptions. more and more want better quality, better technol- A the selective business. On the professional side, years ago, it’s an amazing transformation.” of his predecessor’s storied tenure. In discussing ons of the past decade, La Roche-Posay, which did Although Agon points out that when L’Oréal is ogy, better products. l we reorganized our distributor’s network and this As for another aspect of the American market, differences in their styles, Levy of Publicis, a friend au only 16 million or 17 million euros, or $21.7 million hunting for a new avenue of growth, the possible “Polarization of the business is just an illusion,” P also had some consequences. I hope that now the his nemesis Procter & Gamble, he acknowledged of both men, points out that Owen-Jones rose to or $23.1 million, when L’Oréal bought it in 1989. acquisition target “has to be clearly identified he continues. “If you take the skin care market, situation is clear again.” feeling that the fuss made about the rivalry the top at the unusually young age of 38, when he As a brand recommended by dermatologists, “We as something that’s going to be strong and also you’ll see in the U.S., for example, that there is He continues, “I don’t believe in the extinc- between the two giants is overblown. Breaking was named ceo in 1984. He was made chairman henon by t identified this trend as something really emerg- something that’s going to be completely world- absolutely no polarization at all. There’s just an herm,redken by tion of the department store. [They] have to into a slightly sly smile, Agon says, “We have the at 42. In contrast, Agon was plucked from the t ing and really maybe important for the future.” wide. We’re not interested in a local thing.” amazing trading up with new products launched reinvent themselves, but they have a great role to pleasure to compete with them in many categories. operational ranks and named ceo at 49, meaning Today the brand is 20 times larger. “We passed the But L’Oréal also makes purchases for other rea- by L’Oréal, by Olay, and Vichy in the drugstores; play. Macy’s has a national coverage and can do We compete in hair color and we’re doing fine. that his identification with those he now oversees 300 million euro level [$407.2 million] last year sons, such as its recent upping of its stake from 30 with Lancôme, and also with the expensive brands. national promotions and advertising.” Agon We’re competing in makeup and doing fine. We is still fresh and he is closer in age to them, result- and we think La Roche Posay has a huge poten- to 100 percent of the Beauty Alliance, a Tampa, Fla., They have a very small market share but they are says he considers freestanding stores opened by are competing in hair care and we did fine, I think. ing in a sharper sense of kinship. “OJ is such a tial worldwide because everywhere in the world based salon distribution company to “understand contributing to the expansion of the market.” brands like Lancôme as purely a complement to We have the pleasure to compete in skin care. But brilliant man that people were in awe,” said one

there is segment of people who want and prefer a better the way [the distributors] work with their He was equally dismissive of the criticism that ephanefeugere; bio department stores, not an alternative. Particularly you know our main purpose in our life is not to executive, using the familiar nickname for Owen- homasiannaccone;par dermatologist brand.” hairdressers and how we could improve the rela- L’Oréal is mired in traditional forms of advertis- t in city centers, he says, “It’s good to have a place compete with P&G.” Jones. “Some people were intimidated; Jean-Paul o by s t by o

He continues, “It’s exactly the same story for tionship between our brand and the hairdressers.” ing in an age when the prime consumer has gone by o where the brand is completely optimized—opti- When pressed again with the question of whether is much more approachable.” t bio-organic. Today it’s small but it’s growing and The market is complicated because of the prac- digital. “Advertising is just a way to communicate t mal space, optimal merchandising, optimal staff, he pays special attention to the folks from Cincin- Still, with the change in power there’s a sense of it’s also universal. Because of this type of attitude, tice of booth renting. “If you have a salon with 10 about our products,” he retorts, adding, “My kids because this is also a place where you learn a lot nati, Agon laughs heartily, “It’s not my hobby.” a loosening. “There’s more open-mindedness in you can find it everywhere in the world—you find stylists,” he said, “you have 10 [businesses] to deal never watch TV. They spend several hours a day on about your relationship with the consumers.” “There are several players in the market and terms of finding different ways to bring beauty to it in Europe, in the U.S., in Japan. We believe that with, because each is buying his own products.” the Internet. The new generation have new habits A bright spot in the U.S. is the mass skin care P&G is a serious player. We’re a serious player. the consumer, especially in developing markets,” wen-jonespho the potential of Sanoflore will be similar to that of On May 9th, L’Oreal gave them another in terms of media and we have to adjust our strate- anaisanaispho O market. “Skin care has been the most obvious cat- But there are still many other manufacturers and says one colleague. “He has this supernatural

1978 Agon joins Anaïs 1979 C.I.R.D 1981 Agon is named 1983 Charles 1986 1988 Lindsay 1989 Agon Helena Rubinstein 1990 1993 The 1994 The L’Oréal group L’Oréal as a sales Anaïs (Centre International general manager of Zviak becomes Agon returns Owen-Jones, ceo is appointed is acquired. L’Oréal Trésor by group acquires takes over control of its representative upon perfume de Recherches L’Oréal Greece. president & to France since 1984, adds international also takes over Lancôme is Redken agents in the U.S. (Cos- Agon becomes graduating from HEC by Dermatologiques), director general to become chairman to managing La Roche-Posay launched. Laboratories, mair) and in Switzerland managing director business school. After Cacharel specializing in of L’Oréal. The general 1987 L’Oréal his title at age director of Pharmaceutical which (Lorsa-Fagel) and acquires of L’Oréal Germany one year, marketing launches. the treatment of group reaches manager reaches the 42. He started Biotherm. Laboratories and manufactures 49% of Procasa in Spain, and helps acquire responsibilities are skin and aging, 1,000 employees of L’Oréal 20 billion French at L’Oréal stops all animal and distributes which makes consumer the mass market added to his role. is created. in research. Paris. francs mark. in 1969. testing. salon hair care. and salon products. brand Jade.

34 May 2007 May 2007 35 gradual stretching of existing think they are very good at doing it—much better brands into new categories From Where and geographies should “I’m not a than [me]—and it’s not my job.” continue to secure that control freak Agon also has a passion for foreign travel. Even The Analysts Sit growth—with an aim to be when he is discussing difficult markets, like Japan, number one (for instance, in at all because his optimism bubbles up. “This is a great country Major acquisitions will be the key to mass market makeup in the I don’t control for beauty,” he says. “Japanese women really love U.S.). In addition, it would be beauty and they are really experts. Mathemati- L’Oréal’s growth. By Jennifer Weil good to continue seeing Agon make more growth-enhancing cally, we have 2 or 3 percent market share and it’s anything acquisitions along the lines of at the end.... the second market in the world. So there is 97 per- PARIS—One year into his was a good deal for L’Oréal Matrix or Sanoflore.” cent of the market to conquer,” he says. “As these tenure as L’Oréal’s chief financially.” Beebee also believes it’s a very consumers are very demanding,” he continues, “it’s executive officer, Jean-Paul Although The Body Shop’s L’Oréal needs to be acquisitive a very important market for us because it’s a way Agon is getting the thumbs up underlying profitability is on an ongoing basis over the different to test the level of quality of our products, of our from financial analysts. lower than that of L’Oréal (an next few years, particularly Those queried say he’s a estimated 9 percent versus 16 in personal care, since more packaging, of our concepts of our brands, of every- management ure/corbis great manager with wide- percent), analysts say that’s players are moving into that lt thing. It’s a way to harden, strengthen, sharpen up reaching vision. But, they normal, since The Body Shop category. And, to keep up with style. I want a position for Asia and for the world.” warn, L’Oréal faces challenges, retails and therefore has lower consumers’ diversifying shop- He’s also looking for new ideas. “During a particularly in the mass margins than a pure beauty ping channels, L’Oréal might to agree with market and in the U.S. manufacturer. do well to acquire a makeup

e by carcu by e visit to Brazil last year, I was absolutely amazed the teams l by the creativity of Brazilian hairdressers in terms Analysts concur the “I am sure, over time, artist brand or one strong in transition between Lindsay L’Oréal will [improve] The pharmacies, she said. of hair care.” Explaining that the market has a orcyc at the origin of t Owen-Jones—L’Oréal’s former Body Shop’s profitability,” “I think the acquisition multi-ethnic population with all types of hair, president and ceo—and Agon said Beebee. of Shiseido is one large deal the project.” “It’s a real challenge for the Brazilian consumers has been practically seamless. “In the near term, the L’Oréal could and should ivan; mo ivan; and for Brazilian hairdressers. I find in Brazil the “I think that there has been attraction is that The Body do…given the group leader- ll most creative hairdressers of the world in terms of limited change, since Agon Shop has access to L’Oréal’s ship in a market known to be internally much more than Owen-Jones was in invention of new hair care techniques.” made it clear from the begin- expertise in R&D and product a key innovation hub with the ning that he believes in the innovation. In the [immediate] highest levels of per-capita the last few years of his tenure.” Another analyst ephensu As a result, L’Oréal set up a lab in Rio de Janeiro power of the L’Oréal model, term, there are opportunities consumption and interest- says Owen-Jones was “clearly someone who cared to invent new hair concepts for worldwide distri- notably the focus on top-line to move some of the produc- ing demographics,” added y by s t by y about his legacy, especially in terms of financial l bution. “Some of the innovations that we made for growth,” said Eva Quiroga, an tion under L’Oréal’s roof,” Quiroga, who said L’Oréal

matrix” during his last few years as ceo, whereas ove Kérastase and L’Oréal worldwide last year, in fact, analyst at UBS in London. continued Quiroga. could further globalize the “Jean-Paul Agon is incredibly engaged in the day- l came from Brazil,” he says. Still, an evolution has Steib deems The Body Shiseido brand. to-day business.” Like China, Agon expects India to become one begun. “I would say Jean-Paul Shop a major opportunity for “Beside that, I would expect Agon is a bit more acquisitive. L’Oréal, since it represents deals in emerging markets, When Agon was running the American sub- of the great markets of the world. As in China, He puts a little more empha- control of a distribution luxury products and up-and- sidiary in New York, he acquired a reputation for L’Oréal went into India with all its brands blazing, sis on driving efficiencies; channel that doesn’t overlap coming niches, such as natural rolling up his shirt sleeves and delving into the instead of introducing them one at a time. “India there is more centralization with its retail clients’. “It is a products,” she continued. details of a launch plan offered by subordinants. first is a great country, it’s a beautiful country and going on with Agon than good way for L’Oréal to get Competition is heating up, To some, this was micromanaging. But to him, it’s it’s a very large country. People are very educated under Owen-Jones,” said hands-on feedback,” said from other brands, including simply taking an interest. and they have a huge potential,” he says. “They are Sandy Beebee, an analyst at Steib. “The question then, of private label, and in numerous HSBC in New York. “From a course, is: What’s next? Will categories, particularly the

“I like to understand and I like to contribute and homasandiannaccone;dark clever people. They all speak English, which is a t branding perspective, Agon is L’Oréal try different distribu- mass market, analysts say. I like to work with the people rather than at the huge advantage in this modern world. moving the company toward tion channels?” P&G remains an ongoing end, taking a decision based on reports,” he says. “I “What held it back until now was the fact that focusing on fewer but larger Numerous analysts believe threat to L’Oréal, but analysts like to share and discuss and understand the issue.” there was no modern distribution. Until very re- introductions.” selling through alternative agree that the French giant He says it’s unfair and inaccurate to say that he has cently, there were no department stores, no malls, Indeed, Agon was largely channels, such as door-to- has the mettle and tools to power to conceptualize things. In a meeting you when he was rebuilding Biotherm and when he a controlling personality. “I’m not a control freak at no hypermarkets and very few supermarkets and credited with driving L’Oréal’s door, could be effective for fight it. acquisition of The Body Shop L’Oréal in emerging markets. “L’Oréal has to do what it’s will present him with a problematical situation oversaw Asia. “And he has great vision,” Salmon all because I don’t control anything at the end,” he very few pharmacies or modern pharmacies.” But in 2006. In the meantime, there are traditionally good at—focus- and he will listen then give his conceptualized says, adding that Agon “knows how to motivate says. “What I do, it’s a very different management that is now changing, Agon notes. “In the very “When he took over one numerous macro-hurdles ing on innovation and core version back to you with a solution, all at once.” people.” He urges the new ceo to surround himself style. I want to agree with the teams at the origin near future, there will be many new forms of year ago, he said he will facing the company. “The brands,” said Steib, who views o frankenberg;o mascara by Agon likes to say there are no taboos, which with bright young minds in tune with the digital of the project. So when we work on a project, for t distribution.” Whether entering markets or acquir- continue making out-of-the main challenge at the moment the U.S. as one of L’Oréal’s turns out to be more than a slogan. “You can dis- age. He also suggests that Agon should consider example, I really want to be part of it, because I like ing brands, Agon exhibits a voracious curiosity and box acquisitions,” said Michael is bringing L’Oréal’s top-line biggest challenges, especially cuss anything with him,” says another executive. “If forming alliances around the world, such as with it. But also because I think that I can contribute to a questing intellect. “I compare a brand portfolio to Steib, an analyst in Morgan growth back into the 6 to 8 in hair care. “I think if L’Oréal Stanley in London. “Clearly, percent target range,” said can get into the 6 to 8 percent you don’t bring up a subject, he may do it himself.” Natura in Brazil. the right definition of the project. So we discuss rober by o a puzzle,” he says. “Each piece of the puzzle has a very t he did one. It was met with a Quiroga. “Beyond that, there’s sales growth range this year, “What I like about him is that his sense of One Wall Street analyst, talking on the condition that quite at length at the beginning of the project special role and mission. To maximize the potential lot of skepticism at first, but the ongoing focus on industry- it would be a big step in North energy is great,” says Robert Salmon, a retired of anonymity, says of Agon, “His colleagues respect and once it’s done, I don’t control anything. They of the company we just have to fill in the puzzle. when all is said and done, it leading innovation, and the America,” he said. n gonpho

L’Oréal executive who worked with Agon twice, but don’t fear him. It allows Agon to be challenged do it the way they want because, very honestly, I A So there may be still some pieces missing.” n

1996 L’Oréal L’Oréal consolidates The group’s first 1997 Agon The group breaks 1998 2000 L’Oréal 2001 Agon 2004 L’Oréal July 2005 Agon March 2006 April 2006 January 2007 purchases Maybelline its cosmetic activi- production center in sets up L’Oréal’s several records: Soft Sheen buys Kiehl’s. is appointed introduces leaves his post as L’Oréal acquires Agon is officially Agon is awarded and the Chilean ties in Japan under China is inaugurated. Asian zone The $2 billion Products, president its first men’s president and ceo of The Body Shop for appointed ceo of L’Oréal, the Chevalier de la company Unisa. With one subsidiary, and becomes sales mark in the specializing and ceo of 2002 grooming line, L’Oréal USA, returning to $1.4 billion. succeeding Lindsay Legion d’Honneur these acquisitions, Nihon L’Oréal, general manager U.S. and 2,000 in ethnic L’Oréal USA, L’Oréal signs a Men’s Expert, Paris to work with Lindsay Owen-Jones, chairman by the French L’Oréal becomes the with control of responsible for all employees in the hair care, is the group’s fragrance deal under the Owen-Jones as deputy ceo and ceo for the previous government. world leader in mass 60% and then of the company’s research sector. acquired. largest with design duo L’Oréal Paris of L’Oréal. Laurent Attal is 18 years. Owen-Jones market makeup. 70% from 1997. C h i n a businesses there. subsidiary. Viktor & Rolf. banner. named his U.S. successor. remains chairman.

36 May 2007 May 2007 37 BEAUTY CEO POP QUIZ What you may not know about your favorite beauty chiefs.

WHAT’S THE MOST INTERESTING WHAT BEAUTY BEAUTY PRODUCT YOU’VE WHAT WHAT BOOK HAS HOW MANY AIR PRODUCT COME ACROSS IN THE PAST WHAT’S YOUR TIME WHAT TIME WHAT DO YOU DO WHAT ARE YOU DOING ON PROFOUNDLY CHANGED WHAT BOOK ARE YOU MILES DO YOU DO YOU USE SIX MONTHS, NOT COUNTING STARBUCKS DO YOU DO YOU GO TO TO KEEP STRESS YOUR SUMMER VACATION CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER YOUR LIFE? READING NOW? WHAT’S ON YOUR IPOD? LOG A YEAR? EVERY DAY ANYTHING YOU MAKE? ORDER? GET UP? BED? IN CHECK? THIS YEAR? ia IMAN I Know Why the Caged The Power of Intention “Heroes” and “All Saints” by David I stopped s Iman Oxymoron lacquer gloss by Half 6 a.m. If I am not out Weekly massages. We will go to upstate a r u ABDULMAJID, Bird Sings by Maya Angelou. by Dr. Wayne W. Dyer Bowie, “One” by U2, “Don’t Give Up counting — too Getty Afterglow Poppy King, Lipstick Queen. Americano about town, New York for 2 months, n/

Iman Cosmetics I read it when I was around 15 (Africa)” by Alicia Keys and Bono, many to log! r/E bronzer. It glides on like a balm but looks coffee with around 11 p.m. starting July 1. years old and it has stayed with “Perfect Day” by Lou Reed, and e more matte like a lipstick! a shot of dl ayto

me through the years. “Amazing Grace” by Mahalia Jackson. Vi espresso. n n n Cl n e v o rd

PAMELA BAXTER, The Tipping Point Queen of Wyclef Jean, Kanye West, More than Ste Capture Totale Jergens Natural Glow moisturizer. Tall decaf 6 a.m. 11:30 p.m. I read Work out Going diving

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and Bruce Pasternak h affordable handheld device. beverages. South Beach. c TY/ R E

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year already. h ss Regenerating new again. depending on a oyo h

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REMI CLERO, The Count of Monte Cristo The Tipping Point Red Hot Chili Peppers, A half-million lls Erno Laszlo Pure clean water. Tall 5 a.m. (to When I am Spending time in Louie L’Artisan Parfumeur, by Alexandre Dumas by Malcolm Gladwell Mozart and Marvin Gaye. miles. Or is it Ritual. Unfortunately it is more skinny catch the tired. Le Creno, our Atlantic by umbe

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l l school days. borrowed time. children, horses and the sea. ma e I ff

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Winehouse is hot, too! Zero. seasons. morning ritual. that lasts. g t r by WILLIAM LAUDER, The Spy Who Came The War Jimmy Cliff, Rolling Stones, 300,000-plus. n Shave cream Lip plumpers. Venti mocha 6 a.m. Midnight. Go to the gym five Going to Europe moza

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MALLY RONCAL, Inner Peace Healthy Sleep Habits, All my diva clients— Beyoncé However many h Mally Beauty’s Zents Body Oil in Fresh. It’s very Zen tea with 6 a.m. Midnight. I hug my My husband and I are p buc s r

Mally Beauty by Paramahansa Yogananda Happy Child Knowles, Mary J. Blige, Celine keep me “Executive bi Shimmer, hydrating and has a soft, pretty 1/2 steamed soy husband taking our girls to go see gg r ta o by Marc Weissbluth Dion, Lee Ann Womack, Platinum” o Shape & Glow. fragrance. milk, 1/2 water and my their grandparents on d s; s s;

Jennifer Lopez. And on American e and one packet twin Hilton Head Island in ss/C g oop Barry Manilow. Airlines! e of honey. babies. South Carolina. sn ima Pr

38 MAY 2007 MAY 2007 39 Armed with solid retail experience, a strong vision for their brands and enough enthusiasm young & royally talented to change the world, these top executives are shaping the future of the beauty industry.

illustrations by pat morgan

Harvard University, Beauchamp international markets. The ceo also Despite a lofty list of In December 2003, he made moved into management consult- has her hands full in a completely titles, N.V. Perricone M.D. Cosme- another bold move, to become gen- Delighting and ing at the Boston Consulting Group, new context: She delivered her first ceuticals’ president Shashi Batra, eral manager of the Rodan + Fields Marketing on working primarily with the soft- child, George Robert Beauchamp 41, credits behind-the-counter ex- beauty brand at the Estée Lauder surprising goods sector. This included extensive 2nd, in mid-March. perience with teaching him the most Cos. There, he says, he learned all the net work in personal care, accessories And where some executives might about the beauty business. about innovation. Leonard Lauder, Victoria’s Secret Beauty’s Christine Beauchamp and apparel for brands from mass see only challenges in the current A native of Switzerland, the San the chairman of the board, and Dan N.V. Perricone’s Shashi Batra to couture. business climate, Beauchamp sees Francisco resident served an intern- Brestle, the chief operating officer, It was that job that led Beauchamp only opportunities. Going from banking to with honors from Princeton Uni- to her current role: One of her “Beauty is behaving more like beauty isn’t exactly the usual route versity with a B.A. in politics began clients at BCG was Limited Brands, fashion, and that makes it an excit- for an executive in this industry, but her career as an analyst at Goldman, the parent company of Victoria’s ing time to be a beauty merchant,” “Nicholas Perricone built this business little about Christine Beauchamp, Sachs & Co. Looking back on her Secret Beauty, Bath & Body Works said Beauchamp. “It’s certainly a president and chief executive officer meteoric rise now, she jokes that she and Express. dynamic time in the beauty industry. by getting the message out in an at Victoria’s Secret Beauty, is typical. has “always been somehow engaged In February 2003, she joined the Over the last decade, the growth of alternative way. He drove curiosity and The 37-year-old Washington, in activities involving shopping.” In- Columbus, Ohio-based company the specialty retail channel has been D.C.-born executive who graduated deed. After receiving an M.B.A. from to develop growth strategies for all incredible. And the amount of new- product sales.” these businesses. “My ness, innovation and work evolved into a full- Christine fashion that has entered time position working Beauchamp the beauty industry is ship at Parfums Christian Dior, “taught me what levers a brand must with Les Wexner, the quite exciting.” scored a spot in Macy’s Executive have,” Batra remembers. Lauder company company founder and Victoria’s Secret Robin Coe-Hutshing, Training Program as a result, and has imparted another valuable lesson: chairman, on new prod- Beauty who collaborated with never looked back. “There’s nothing “[He] taught me that who you sell

uct commercialization HQ Beauchamp on the de- like being on the selling floor. [The your product through helps build capability in the beauty New York velopment of Victoria’s Macy’s program] really taught people your credibility,” says Batra. “For in- and lingerie sectors.” Secret’s Exotic Nectars to be merchants. And once you have stance, Nordstrom has the ultimate 2006 sales Wexner was obvi- $1 billion body care line, says, those basic skills—merchandising, reputation for customer service. If ously impressed with “Christine combines an selling, etc.—you can apply them to you align your [brand] with that previously her skills, naming Beau- Consultant, Boston interesting paradox of any area of the business,” says Batra. [positioning], you are the brand champ president and Consulting Group out-of-the-box creative After a stint as department [people will buy] at Nordstrom.” general merchandise thinking with steel-clad manager of cosmet- That said, he adds, the manager of Victoria’s business acumen and ics for Macy’s East, he SHASHI onus is on marketers to Secret Beauty in April 2005. She she’s not afraid to rock the boat.” went on to become BATRA communicate a strong

added the chief executive title last Like Wexner, Beauchamp ap- a cosmetics buyer at company message to consumers. May. “It is a pleasure to work with proaches her responsibilities with Saks Fifth Avenue. N.V. Perricone “In an assisted self-serve Christine,” says Wexner. “Her knowl- what both executives call “the shop- It was at Saks where atmosphere, consum- HQ edge of the industry, along with her keeper mentality.” Batra first worked with Meridian, Conn. ers have the choice not creativity and business experience, “We make significant efforts to Steve Bock, who later to interact with sales- 2005 sales has contributed substantially to the know our customers intimately and helped bring French $73 million people, no matter how growth of Victoria’s Secret Beauty.” take a merchant’s eye to every prod- beauty chain Sephora well they’re trained. Today, Beauchamp oversees a uct we develop,” said Beauchamp. to the U.S. In 1998, at previously The communication General Manager, business that generates sales of near- Delivering the unexpected is key to Bock’s urging, Batra Rodan + Fields is happening between curiosity and product sales.” N.V. Per- maintains a consumer who has ly $1 billion annually. In addition to her strategy. “Beauty is a highly emo- joined Sephora USA the product and its ricone products are sold on sephora. a profound buy-in to your brand.” managing production of a host of tional category for [consumers],” as vice president of prospective buyer. That com and neimanmarcus.com, as well For Perricone, the challenge is Victoria’s Secret beauty products, she says. “She loves to experiment, merchandising and was later pro- means that communication at point- as nvperriconemd.com. They are also “scaling up,” Batra says. “We have she retails them through 1,000 U.S. play, to be delighted and surprised.” moted to senior vice president of of-sale has to be better than ever.” available through QVC. been increasing our presence in Victoria’s Secret stores, the brand’s Sounds like someone we know. merchandising. “Today, some of the most suc- “The problem with department international markets, and we’re catalogues and Web site and select —Julie Naughton Though it may seem like a natu- cessful brands focus on shopping stores is that they have tried to be concentrating on product innova- ral choice now, leaving a stable job channels, the Internet, editorial, all everything to everyone,” Batra says. tion and new mediums. It’s exciting at Saks for Sephora, a shoestring sorts of consumer-relations manage- Success, in his eyes, requires an to see the statistical data you can get operation at the time, was a risky ment,” Batra points out. “[Nicholas] unwavering point of view. “People from selling on the Internet. If I sell “Beauty is behaving more like fashion, move. Then again, the soft-spoken Perricone is the king of alternative won’t want to hear from you unless a product to a retailer, I have to guess and that makes it an and bespectacled Batra is neither shy media communication. He built you have a message. Once you have who the consumer is and why she nor conservative where his career is this business by getting the message a philosophical base, [your com- bought it. On the Net, I can track exciting time to be a beauty merchant” concerned. out in an alternative way. He drove pany] can have ebbs and flows, but it every bit.” —J.N.

40 may 2007 may 2007 41 young & royally talented

While luxury hair care “They typically hate that stuff.” can be considered an oxymoron, Shaban, 45, grew up with a father Minding the the success of the largest luxury hair who served the beauty industry GROWing a care company, Frédéric Fekkai LLC, for 30 years: Gregory Shaban was Farm has given Melisse Shaban little time executive vice president of Revlon Premium Brand to contemplate the matter. Instead, overseeing hair care and cosmetics. Jurlique’s Eli Halliwell she is deliberating on ways to grow Throughout her childhood and into Frederic Fekkai’s Melisse Shaban the estimated $100 million beauty her adult years, Shaban heard about

Twenty-two years ago, the brand’s packaging and store de- Jurlique was founded on the premise sign. Already he is seeing a response “Frédéric started something unique in of providing an alternative, natural in Australia where the brand has the luxury world by offering choice to those who cared about become number one in skin care for what they put in and on their body. the first time, overtaking Clarins. a prestige item in a distribution that This mission, says Jurlique president Simultaneously, he has recommit- and chief executive officer Eli Hal- ted the privately owned company didn’t previously exist.” liwell, is set to expand as the current to the principles of biodynamics, a sea change toward natural beauty form of agriculture that is consid- products catches on. ered “beyond organic” because of 2005, when Chrysallis, a portfolio continue to expand in three core hair An avid rock climber and yoga its closed system of sustainable farm- company of Greenwich, Conn.-based care categories: care, style and color. practitioner, 36-year-old Halliwell ing practices. He is also determined private equity firm Catterton Part- While most items sell between $20 has a “relationship” with nature to keep Jurlique a vertically-inte- ners, purchased a major stake in and $35, Fekkai broke the price barri- and wants to see the environment grated company, handling all modes the beauty company. Shaban is the er with Hair Repair, a $195 overnight protected. Living in of operation from seed chief executive officer of treatment. “People Australia for the past ELI to sale. Chrysallis, whose invest- Melisse are getting advanced year since becoming HALLIWELL The skin care compa- ments include Fekkai, SHABAN technology. [Fekkai] ceo, he is thankful that ny generates about $100 Pout, NIA 24 and Can- stands for celebrity company company the consumer is finally Jurlique million in sales and last yon Ranch skin care. Frédéric Fekkai LLC status, beauty, service, interested in these is- year partnered with San Its attraction to Fekkai sexiness and style. It is HQ HQ sues, ones that have Sydney Francisco-based private was multipronged. Greenwich, Conn. an aspirational brand,” mattered to Jurlique equity firm JH Partners “Frédéric started some­ Shaban says. 2006 sales since Day One. 2006 sales to fund its growth. Plans thing unique in the There are plans to ex- $100 million “People are much more focused on what Approx. $100 million Previously, Halliwell involve building more luxury world by offer- pand salons—there are was general manager previously stores internationally. they put in, on and around their bodies. ing a prestige item in a previously currently five—globally, General Manager, General Manager, of Bumble and bumble, But the core of Jurlique’s distribution that didn’t too. “We have a lease on Bumble and They have a conscience,” says Halliwell The Body Shop (U.S.) the professional hair bumble positioning—incorpo- previously exist. We Melrose Avenue in Los care company owned rating ingredients from also saw that Fekkai Angeles, we have ex- by The Estée Lauder its certified organic and had terrific brand equity. His brand ecuted a lease in Greenwich, Conn., Cos. There, he became known for biodynamic farms—isn’t budging. It beauty brands will eat significantly cept stores and at 300 destination, appealed to a top-tier demographic, and we are working on four to six his strategic thinking and passionate is what differentiates Jurlique from into traditional brands’ market share, resort and day spa partners. Jurlique which we liked because you can leases in the next six months. We leadership style as he helped build competitors such as Dr. Hauschka, he predicts. now has 60 stores in 22 countries. never go up but you can always come need to be in London and Paris and Bumble’s brand and distribution. Primavera and Weleda. The compa- The products Jurlique creates have The American market should benefit down,” Shaban says. [other] trendsetting capitals of the “Enchanted” with the eco-friendly ny’s most popular products include a natural source: their own farms. A from the Halliwell effect in the fourth In just two years, Fekkai has gone world.” Shaban believes she can grow evolution taking place among con- Herbal Recovery Gel ($124), Eye Gel couple of weeks ago, Halliwell visited quarter, when a larger distribution, empire she oversees, making sure “the business,” one she eventually from 340 doors to 2,000 doors and to as many as 25 salons worldwide sumers, Halliwell notes, “Wal-Mart ($121), Neck Serum ($75) and Pure one, where he picked calendula. “It is more Jurlique stores and new prod- she doesn’t get in the way of her star migrated to after graduating from is sold in the U.S., United Kingdom, and still keep the service high-end. is already the number-one retailer Rosewater Freshener ($31). our first harvest. I looked across the uct packaging are slated. artist, hair guru Fekkai. “There are Rosemont College in Pennsylvania. France, Greece, Austria and the The ceo admits it is always a of organic milk. That is a leading Although the organic skin care 150 acres, squinted my eyes and imag- Halliwell himself is scheduled to some similarities that run through She cut her teeth at Revlon, then Netherlands. Part of Fekkai’s suc- challenge not to dilute a premium indicator that is shocking everyone, category is still small, totaling an ined what business will be like with all return to New York, likely to a suburb all entrepreneurs and once you un- joined a pre-Estée Lauder-owned cess has been its shift from selling brand. Fekkai’s friends in high from politicians to businessmen. estimated $200 million in U.S. these amazing plants,” he says. in Westchester County, by the end derstand how to get the most out of Aveda, where she rose to the position in department stores to specialty places may help. Recently, a part- People are much more focused on sales in natural supermarkets and A typical week for Halliwell has of the year, 12 months sooner than a certain one, it’s time to leave them of general manager. Aveda founder stores with a global reach, such nership with jewelry house H. what they put in, on and around their in conventional food, drug and mass him traveling to Japan, where Ju- expected. “I feel a strong urgency to do what they are best at—devel- Horst Rechelbacher, Shaban says, as Sephora and Victoria’s Secret. Stern had Fekkai lending his design bodies. They have a conscience,” says stores, excluding Wal-Mart, accord- rlique has 15 freestanding stores to return to the U.S. It represents a oping the vision for the brand,” says is still a mentor. Next, she ran Shaban insists the business can grow savvy to diamond-encrusted hair Halliwell. ing to SPINS data, Halliwell expects and a presence in niche department massive opportunity for us,” he says. Shaban. Creating an infrastructure North American operations for The into twice that number of doors accessories that were ultimately Jurlique, he says, is about to pop that to change. In the next three stores such as Takishimaya. In the “And when opportunity knocks, you for the company, on the other Body Shop. without cannibalization. worn by celebrities at The Academy in a big way, thanks to an overhaul of to five years, natural and organic U.S., Jurlique is sold in 12 of its con- have to listen.—Andrea Nagel hand, is her job, she says, adding, Shaban joined Fekkai in January On the product side, Fekkai will Awards. —A.N.

42 may 2007 may 2007 43 President and ceo Shinzo Maeda has been restructuring Shiseido’s domestic business. Now he’s setting his sights on international markets. quiet giant two years after assuming control, shiseido ceo shinzo maeda is solidifying the company’s top spot in japan and overseeing an aggressive expansion plan overseas. By Betsy Lowther Photographed by Kenshu Sannohe

There is change in the air at Shiseido—and it goes background as a former executive at Wella and Procter & Gamble. As of January, beyond the heady scent of Zen, the company’s classic fragrance that is being Fischer—who as corporate executive officer is the most senior foreign employee reformulated and relaunched this fall. in Shiseido history—assumed responsibility for the company’s operations in the It isn’t noticeable in the orderly lobby of the company’s hushed Tokyo U.S., Europe and much of Asia. In October, he’ll begin overseeing Shiseido’s headquarters, a striking sanctuary of creamy leather, polished woods and the professional division and in January, he will take the lead for what is quickly airy tranquility of traditional Japanese design. But beyond the fleet of uniformed becoming the company’s most important foreign market—China. receptionists, a transformation is occurring, led by president and chief executive There are a lot of eyes watching these changes, which hasn’t always made officer Shinzo Maeda, a 37-year company veteran who took charge of the historic things easy. Maeda has faced opposition and skepticism—both internal and Japanese beauty company in 2005 and immediately ushered in an era of reform. external—for some of his domestic initiatives thus far, including abolishing The movements thus far have been relatively quiet, at least to outsiders, sales quotas for in-store beauty consultants and discontinuing long-established and directed mainly at Shiseido’s domestic business, where the 135-year-old brands while creating new “megabrands” that are better positioned to become company—the longtime leader of Japan’s $13 billion beauty industry, where lucrative category leaders. So far, he’s silenced critics with a record of results: it commands a 17.5 percent market share—has faced increasing competition The company, which has just completed year two of a three-year plan called from both local and foreign brands in a very saturated market. But now, “Growth and Advancement,” has seen annual sales rise to about $6 billion and Maeda is turning his focus to advancing Shiseido’s international presence with share prices reach an unprecedented high since Maeda stepped in. the help of Carsten Fischer, a well-respected German with a strong beauty “Evolution is important to Shiseido and has become critical to growing our

44 may 2007 may 2007 45 the company’s board, was appointed combined, they would be performing Hair care president and ceo in 2005 at the megabrand well,” Maeda says. “But each individual relatively young age of 58, raising Tsubaki is a big brand was not performing at the some eyebrows in a company—and hit in Japan... top level. This strategy allowed us to a country—that has always placed directly address that issue.” priority on hierarchy and seniority. Brands that had the strongest Maeda wasted no time in presence—like in skin care, the restructuring the company and company’s historic driver—were updating its core offerings. (It wasn’t retained but given more resources. just the business that changed: The The company’s ultraprestige skin approachable Maeda earns kudos care line, Clé de Peau Beauté, has from employees for being the first bolstered its presence in department president to regularly eat in the stores by introducing its own counters company cafeteria.) The reforms (previously, it shared space with began with the domestic business, Shiseido The Skincare) and renewing where the company drastically its makeup and basic skin care cut back the number of brands offerings earlier this year. The category it distributed in Japan, reducing was further strengthened by the launch internal competition and creating of two skin care megabrands, the mass new, full-range “megabrands” that would be better positioned to line Aqua Label and mid-range line Elixir Superieur. be leaders in major categories like hair care, cosmetics and men’s The key to the megabrands’ success was to ensure that longtime products. In the past two years, a fleet of more than 100 domestic customers who had been loyal to the old brands would make the Shiseido brands has been whittled down to about 30. switch to the new ones. Shiseido embarked on a major marketing “Before the reform started, we had so many domestic brands effort and spent considerably on its advertising and promotion and our limited management resources were scattered among campaigns, including hiring local and foreign celebrities to draw them,” Maeda says. “It wasn’t possible for individual brands to be more attention to the new launches. Most prominently, Angelina fully developed and nurtured, and as a result, each brand didn’t Jolie was signed as the spokesperson for Integrate, a mass makeup receive strong recognition from the customers. We decided that if line that launched in August. A prominent television and print business,” says the reserved but friendly Maeda, sitting in a cream products.) A few minutes’ walk away is the charming House of Yesterday and today, we could concentrate the brands, we could nurture them so they campaign focused on the actresses’ famous bee-stung lips slicked leather armchair in a sleek meeting room on the top floor of Shiseido, where a small library of beauty and design books and clockwise from top could each grow to be a top brand that could outperform other in a glossy pink Integrate lipstick called Aqua Diamond Rouge. left: Shiseido’s original Shiseido’s Tokyo headquarters. When talking about the company’s a rotating exhibition of artworks from the company’s corporate location, and facade of companies’ products.” So far, the massive marketing push and new product ranges reforms, his typical response is both measured and modest, museum in the Japanese city of Kakegawa attracts several and library inside the It was a potentially risky strategy, but the company immediately have succeeded in not just converting old customers but attracting reflecting the nature of Japan’s conservative business culture and hundred visitors per day. (The building, the former Shiseido House of Shiseido, where saw results—like in the hair care category, where Shiseido had new ones by helping to revitalize the image of a beauty company beauty and design books deflecting self-praise for the company’s recent growth. headquarters until the company moved into its present location in are on public display. previously lagged in the number four spot in sales. The launch of that many younger customers had thought of as their mothers’ Others are quicker to give credit where it is increasingly due. 2003, still houses the office of Yoshiharu Fukuhara, the company’s hair care megabrand Tsubaki in March 2006 was a phenomenal brand. The company hopes to maintain the momentum now that Says Fischer, “If you look at the changes Mr. Maeda has made honorary chairman and grandson of its founder.) Looking through success: The brand took in $150 million in sales during its first the launch phase is over and it focuses on development. thus far, it gives you an indication of how committed he is to a selection of the company’s vast archives—from the ruby vintage year—80 percent higher than the original projection—and now “I am satisfied with what we have achieved [in the domestic move [Shiseido] ahead. It’s not as if the company was on the bottle of its first cosmetics product, Eudermine, created in 1898, Shiseido holds the number two spot in the category, according market],” says Maeda. “We are entering the phase where we can brink of bankruptcy and needed someone to turn it around. The to the current issue of its edgy, 83-year-old monthly fashion to company figures. Shiseido achieved similar success with other focus on nurturing these brands.” company is in a very healthy stage, and yet he’s managed to take magazine Hanatsubaki—it’s easy to understand why Shiseido megabrands such as Maquillage, a prestige full-range makeup Now comes the next step: bolstering Shiseido’s international it a step up with some very meaningful innovations. There’s a real is a veritable household name in Japan, a brand that has been line that launched in August 2005 and replaced the popular presence, a key component to the company’s goal of becoming the determination to do the things that have to be done to take the passed down from mothers to daughters for generations. foundation line Proudia and cosmetics line Pieds Nus. leader of Asia’s booming beauty market and a major player in the company to the next level.” When 23-year-old Maeda joined the “In the past, when sales for Shiseido brands in each category were prestige business in other areas like the U.S. and Europe. In the To fully understand the seismic nature Eudermine, the company in 1970, he slowly worked his past 10 years, Shiseido—cur- of the changes at Shiseido, it’s important to company’s first way up from an entry-level spot in a sales rently the fifth largest beauty get a sense of the company’s storied history, beauty product. division to a member of the team launching company worldwide—has starting with its founding in the posh Ginza cosmetics line Ipsa, the first company brand seen its global position grow district of Tokyo, where the company still that would not carry the Shiseido name. significantly; where outside maintains its headquarters as well as several The launch of Ipsa in 1986 was rocky —so markets used to account historic properties. The most impressive much so that Maeda considered leaving the for about 10 percent of the of these is perhaps Shiseido Parlour, a company in disgrace—but the motivated company’s business, they swank 11-story landmark that houses an art employee had already caught the attention now contribute more than 30 gallery, confectionery and several high-end of company higher-ups. He was promoted percent of annual sales and restaurants, including a two-story atrium to corporate planning, while Ipsa eventually are continuing to rise. tearoom at the top floor that overlooks the flourished to become a top-selling brand. To add more fuel to building’s equally luxurious neighbors such Maeda moved up through a wide range the growth, the company as Lanvin, Burberry and Gucci. of departments, which gave him the recruited Fischer in late 2006 The Parlour is just across the street from exposure he needed to eventually become to oversee its international Shiseido’s original location, where it opened the leader of the company’s corporate business. Fischer, who is in 1872 as Japan’s first Western-style planning department, responsible for fluent in Japanese, first pharmacy. (That building, still owned by strategizing new ways to take Shiseido ...as are skin care joined Shiseido as a corporate megabrands the company, is now a luxury store selling forward. His leadership abilities didn’t go Aqua Label and advisor, which included a fashion items and the full range of Shiseido unnoticed: Maeda, the youngest member of Elixir Superieur. crash course in the company’s

46 may 2007 may 2007 47 Carsten Fischer, the highest-ranking Prestige makeup line Maquillage is part foreigner in of Maeda’s megabrand strategy. Shiseido history, is responsible for company sells a range of Shiseido-branded and better results, and she’s willing to try more higher-end skin care line called Supreme Aupres, the company’s operations in the products as well as those from subsidiaries such complicated solutions in order to achieve these whose products retail for about $23 to $60. U.S., Europe and as Nars Cosmetics, Zirh and Beauté Prestige results,” Fischer says. “We will be working on Shiseido’s China business has been growing much of Asia. In International, which holds the licenses for offering more products that have a similar effect to by about 30 percent each year for the past January 2008, he will take the lead fragrances like Jean-Paul Gaultier, Issey Miyake a dermatology visit. That way, we’re able to offer three years, mainly due to an initiative started for what is quickly and Narciso Rodriguez. The company has been convenience but also provide more complicated in 2004 to increase the company’s reach into becoming the able to gain ground recently in skin care, moving products than just a standard cream.” more rural areas. While Shiseido had previously company’s most into the number four spot in the category due Prestige cosmetics will also be an area of global focused on department store sales in China’s important foreign market—China. to efforts by Heidi Manheimer, who was named focus for the company, which plans to further major cities, it began to see a demand for ceo of Shiseido’s U.S. operations in early 2006. advance the Nars cosmetics line along with Shiseido cosmetics in farther-flung areas of the country. Manheimer, a former merchandising manager at foundation to better utilize each brand’s strengths Using a strategy modeled after the Japanese Barney’s who joined Shiseido in 2000, is the first and identity. “If you talk about Shiseido as a brand, market, Shiseido began distributing a range of American to hold a ceo title for the company’s U.S. makeup is not necessarily the first [thought],” beauty brands to locally owned specialty stores arm (previously, the position had been filled by a Fischer admits. “We think we can strengthen this across the Chinese countryside. The company rotation of executives from Japan). She is also the category with a dual approach—by using Shiseido, dramatically grew its specialty store presence highest-ranking woman in the Shiseido empire. which is strong in skin care, to grow our foundation in China from 1,000 outlets in 2005 to 1,700 (See sidebar for more about the U.S. business.) business, and using Nars to focus on color cosmetics. It will be by the end of 2006 (by comparison, department store locations After the recent gains, Shiseido sees even a twofold strategy, using the different strengths of our different rose from 450 to 550 during the same time frame). more potential in the U.S. Though the market brands, to conquer the market.” “[The specialty store strategy] is one factor behind our fast currently has an operating profitability of 5 Along with the product changes comes a deeper examination growth in the China market, and it is a strength that cannot be percent, executives aim to double that within of the company’s global presence. One area of improvement, both easily copied by our competitors from Europe and the U.S.,” the next three-year cycle. Part of that growth will for the U.S. as well as the European market, could be bolstering Maeda says. “This is a business model that we originally developed come from skin care, Shiseido’s longtime strength. the company’s presence in sales outlets that don’t have the benefit for Japan, and the reason for the success we’ve achieved here. The company just rolled out a major Shiseido The of dedicated sales staff. “We are not as strong in an environment Now, we’ve been able to apply this expertise to China as well.” Skincare revamp in the U.S. in March, hoping to where self-selection is the way of selling,” Fischer notes. “That’s And just in time, it seems. Maeda is quick to point out that further invigorate its presence. because, by our aesthetic approaches, we don’t scream ‘Here we industry figures for China are still very difficult to estimate, but “It’s important to always stay fresh in a market are!’ We are a company and a culture that is rather understated, that in the next few years, he expects China’s annual beauty sales that is very much driven by new approaches,” not overstated. That’s not going to change, but I believe you will exceed that of the $13 billion Japanese market. “In the future, Fischer notes. “You also need to bring meaningful can be understated and still make it will likely be the biggest cosmetics market in the world,” he says. innovation with every relaunch, and I believe we a point in saying, ‘I’m here.’” Beyond China, the company has its eye on other emerging have done that now with Shiseido The Skincare. It’s clear that consumers are beauty markets as well, including Vietnam, India and Russia, It’s not just the packaging that has changed; the going to start seeing a lot more of where the company set up a subsidiary in April. Those markets technology behind the product has been updated Shiseido. “I don’t think we get all the are a focus for Fischer as the company works to finalize its next as well. Our plan is to upgrade all of our products share, in terms of public relations, three-year business plan, which will begin in April 2008. as new technology becomes available.” that we are entitled to, and that could That guarantees that big changes will continue at Shiseido, Fischer counts antiaging and eye-related skin be one focus for us in the future,” particularly as the company works to grow against its bigger wide variety of products—a very illuminating education for care products as the current core strengths of the category’s Fischer remarks. “There are many competitors like L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Estée Lauder. someone with a hair care background as the former ceo of growth, and says he also expects a strong increase in areas like opportunities for us to pursue.” Fischer points to several of the companies’ core strengths as its Wella Japan and the president of the Professional Care d ivision sun protection and brightening. “These are high-value categories Such initiatives already make for major assets in the battle for beauty market share, including its of Procter & Gamble. (As a result of his Shiseido schooling, and we are always looking [for new ways to grow them],” he a hefty workload, but in January, highly aesthetic approach, commitment to customer service the amiable Fischer admits to being compelled to update his says. “If you take antiaging, for example, there are areas of the Fischer will take on even more and consultations and research and development expertise. moisturizing and cleansing routine. Plus, he adds, “my wife is body that are affected by aging that have not been fully brought responsibility when he assumes But perhaps the company’s most compelling weapon is the very thrilled” with the product perks of his new job.) to the attention of the consumer. We are looking at developing control of the company’s China untapped potential of their extensive roster of existing brands. Fischer had split his career between Europe and Japan since he antiaging not just for face, but for the whole body. The growth in Shiseido’s new high-end skin care line operations, which have helped “One of our big strengths is our brand portfolio,” Fischer came to Tokyo in 1991 to attend Japanese language school, where this category going forward could be tremendous.” Supreme Aupres is exclusive to China. push sales for the Asia-Pacific says. “Other companies have good brand portfolios as well, he met his wife, a fellow student from China. He switches easily Fischer also believes that brightening products, which region outside of Japan to more but Shiseido really possesses some unpolished gems. There’s between fluent English and Japanese, noting that his language traditionally had only been targeted at Asians, have huge than $500 million per year. China the Shiseido brand itself—which for insiders is very strong ability and local knowledge has allowed him to slip more easily growth potential in outside markets as well. In March, the has been a long-term and lucrative and aspirational, but it’s really not very well-known yet. And into such a senior position in Japan’s formal business culture. company launched its brightening line Shiseido White focus for the beauty industry, and if you take Nars, or Issey Miyake and Jean-Paul Gaultier “Having worked in Japan [in the past], I think I’ve developed a Lucency in Europe, where it says it has already received Shiseido has wasted no time in [fragrances], or brands like Decléor or Carita, there are a lot of sense of avoiding the biggest blunders,” Fischer says. “But I would a strong response. setting up a major presence there. unpolished gems in the crown jewel of Shiseido that have not be mistaken if I tried to conform to all the rules [of Japanese “Whitening started in Asia, and it’s still a very big thing,” The company currently has more yet been put forth as forcefully as they could be. I believe that’s business culture]. I’m a German, which means by nature, I’m Fischer says. “But the technology is valid for Caucasian and than 10 brands in the market, led a huge asset that we have and can develop.” quite direct in my communication. That’s not easy sometimes, Hispanic skin as well and we’re starting to introduce it [to by top-selling prestige skin care Will it get that far? After all, there is also plenty of speculation Nars is key but I believe it is also refreshing.” markets outside Asia]. It has slightly different positioning— to Shiseido’s line Aupres, its China-specific skin that the newly strengthened company may be prime for takeover Fischer now spends about half his time in Tokyo and the we call it brightening instead of whitening—but we’re global color care line that launched in 1994. by one of its major competitors. It’s an idea that Maeda neither other half traveling between Shiseido’s international outposts, seeing very promising initial results. It may take a little bit of cosmetics plan. To keep up with the skyrocketing endorses nor dismisses. including leading markets like Southeast Asia and the U.S. and time, but we believe this will become a big category as well.” amount of wealth in China, Shiseido “Reform will continue; it is part of our fabric,” he says. “We made the company’s research and development centers in Japan, Advanced home treatments are getting more focus. A recently launched a second, even a plan, we acted on [it], and now we are achieving our goals.” n the U.S., Europe, China and—as of October—Thailand. He is major launch this year will be Shiseido Bio Performance Angelina Jolie is the face for mass makeup line Integrate. frank about Shiseido’s challenges in the international arena, but Intensive Skin Corrective Program, a two-week skin This ad in Glamour magazine touts its new lipstick. declines to define specific development strategies and merely revitalization program that will be priced around $300 hints at a wide range of possible upcoming changes. and will launch in the U.S. this fall. One main focus for Fischer is the U.S. market, where the “The female consumer is looking for better solutions

48 may 2007 may 2007 49 up over the year prior because we had a very high customer Heidi Manheimer, retention rate. If we can keep that customer retention rate pretty ceo of Shiseido high, we’re better off focusing in fewer doors. Cosmetics (America) Ltd., is How much does your background as a retailer help you Shiseido: gaining shares in navigate the increasingly tricky retail landscape? skin care. H.M.: A lot. As a retailer, you’re much closer to the consumer. An AMERICAN There’s no better way to react to your business than to know what the consumer is thinking and to have firsthand information. In addition, you get to work with many brands. If you’re working with Perspective the consumer, and you’re very close to the beauty consultant, you have the ability to see what works, what doesn’t and how the during her seven years at shiseido, customer reacts firsthand. heidi manheimer has spearheaded a One of the changes you’ve made at Shiseido is to be more lot of firsts—both personally and discriminating in the products you’ve chosen to launch in the U.S. Describe your launch strategy. professionally. not only is she the first H.M.: The Shiseido brand you see in the U.S. is a global brand. female chief executive in the company’s One of the things that’s changed is I work with the product history, she’s also the first to steer the marketers in Tokyo, which certainly helps. But in addition, as they brand to the number four spot in the become more global, it’s become easier to mirror the product selection. Certainly there are differences in every market, but prestige skin care market, edging out the thing you learn is that some of the great categories are great archrival clarins. the ex-retailer—she’s everywhere. They may be different in terms of their percentage a bloomingdale’s and barneys new of importance, but overall a great global product has a place. What’s been best is identifying what the key areas are and which york veteran—recently sat down with products are more important and putting them front-and-center wwd beauty biz to discuss strategy, and making sure that’s what we show and that’s what we Shiseido White Lucent is a top-selling brightening line in the U.S. subsequent plans and her skills at market in the U.S. adapting to a new business culture. What impact do you have on product development? How does the culture of a Japanese company differ from H.M.: Our piece is providing all of the market information and the that of an American company? —Jenny B. Fine competitive data for the U.S. We’re also part of the testing. We do H.M.: One of the biggest issues is that they have management have an impact. Do we see it right away? That goes back to what are by consensus. The other thing is they work in management by What are the qualities that enabled you to become the first Now that you’re number four, what’s the goal? What kind of the global needs. But it’s our job to push on that. We’re also a part of cycles. So an average cycle for a management term is three years. female ceo in Shiseido’s history? growth are you looking for on a percentage basis? the messaging and how to get the product across to the consumer. Many projects, certainly when it relates to developing programs Heidi Manheimer: Being adaptable. Working in a new culture H.M.: I don’t think we can very quickly make it to the number three Will that become even more pronounced under Mr. Fischer? and products, take a long period of time and you really need to was the biggest issue. The most important piece of that was really spot, which is triple our business. But we’re looking for 10 percent H.M.: My hope is that under Mr. Fischer, our information will be understand where your requests or your information will lie. You taking the time to dive in and understand a new culture. growth each year. Five to 6 percent of that is planned in comp heard, we can get involved earlier and that him having a global really need to prioritize your thoughts, take what’s important and How long did that take? business and the additional growth will come from some additional vision, having worked in a global company, he can make that make sure you understand enough of what’s going on so you know H.M.: I’m learning every day, but it took me about two years to endeavors, one being we’re new to the dot-com arena. We also process more seamless so that the timeliness of it increases. that your request is lying in the right spot. really understand how all of the pieces fit together. continue to expand the military business and Sephora, which we How has a recent product breakthrough helped drive What’s the next piece of significant news that we will see How do you define Shiseido as a brand? look at as a new customer. your business? coming out of Shiseido USA? H.M.: It’s high quality, high image, high service. It is deeply rooted in Will you use skin care as a platform to grow color? H.M.: We carried whitening products in the U.S., but it sold mainly H.M.: The antiaging category. We’re adding in our Bio the Japanese culture. H.M.: Yes. When you look at the next two categories that do really to the person who knew what it was, probably an Asian customer. Performance category an intensive, two-week treatment program. How do you define Shisiedo’s position in the U.S.? well for us, it’s sun care and foundation. That’s a halo effect from When we got involved [with the launch of White Lucent], we With the exception of cleanser, you go off all of your skin care to H.M.: Our job is to make the position exactly the same. As far as the our skin care. We have a long-term plan under way for color. The worked hard on the messaging to explain to the customer that rejuvenate, detox and recharge your skin. As we go on what you’ll awareness of the brand, it’s still our challenge to bring that to life. fact that we just announced Dick Page as our artistic director you’re not bleaching your skin—it’s about [creating] eveness and see is more growth in the antiaging category, and the high-end You must be doing something right: Shiseido recently certainly shows that we’re serious. Foundation right now is 40 eliminating dullness. When we launched it, we quickly premium skin care. moved to the number four spot in skin care. What strategy percent of our total color business, and we’re happy about that. became the number one vendor for “brightening.” There What’s your mission for the brand overall? did you implement to make it happen? We certainly don’t want that business to fall, but we know that with was a huge acceptance and we’ve gone beyond the Asian H.M.: Our vision is to be in the top three in skin care. My hope H.M.: Skin care is the biggest piece of our business and where our the new strategy for color, we’ll not only complement skin care, but customer who knew about it. overall is to really raise the brand awareness for Shiseido. [When] strengths are, so we went through the entire brand and analyzed compete in the market. Do you think that the average you go to Tokyo, everyone knows the word Shiseido, and everyone each product and made sure we focused on the products that Where do you rank right now? American consumer thinks of understands that it’s high quality, high image, high service. match the consumer’s interest, as well as looking at the data H.M.: We’re currently number 11, and we think there’s a huge Japanese brands as being more Everyone knows the deep heritage and culture of Shiseido, and I’d of what was important. We know consumers want brightening, opportunity to be in the top 10. technologically sophisticated? love for that to happen in the U.S. While I think that we’ve certainly antiaging and luxury products, and we reexamined every product How much of your business is driven by newness versus H.M.: I do, and as time goes on more then tapped the surface on that, we really are positioned well in the brand to make sure we put the right focus behind each. existing products? that point is only strengthened. now to raise the volume and get that point across. Whether it be training and education, developing our services to H.M.: In 2006, about 13 percent of our total sales were from Now with access to the Internet, Maybe the one aspect to adapt here [is] service. One of the key incorporate those aspects of our business, in-store programs, or new products. and women being more educated phrases we use at counter and [in] our training is omotenashi. advertising when possible—that was our focus and the beauty What retail channels aren’t you in that you think the brand and being out and about, they You’ve probably heard it before. Basically, in Japan, that’s consultant’s focus. would do well in? understand that piece and look to hospitality. And it’s really what we try to emulate from our beauty How long did it take from the conception and H.M.: We still have a lot of opportunity in the channels we’re in. Our Japanese products for quality. consultants. Everything we do at counter is a feeling of omotenashi. implementation until you saw results? real focus is to grow our business in our current retail distribution It’s always been a We certainly don’t expect our customers to understand what it is, H.M.: It’s been almost a five-year process of making sure we before we really have the need to look beyond that. Artistic director big piece and but we want them to walk away feeling that there was something Dick Page. identify what’s happening in the market and focusing in on what’s What’s been the impact of retail consolidation? is getting special, that [our] people were more hospitable, and that we gave happening in our brand. H.M.: Like everyone else, we took a hit, but we actually still picked stronger. service in a very positive way. n Summer offerings from Shiseido The Makeup. 50 may 2007 may 2007 51 the it list

2A—Pascal Alex Cao Ashton Charles Chris Stein Christopher Daniel Darrin Haddad David Lawrence Aulagner and My Style Is: Giving a Worthington Masters My Style Is: Aggressive Coppola Schweizer My Style Is: Clean My Style Is: Clean and Sylvere Azoulai clean, modern edge to My Style Is: Sleek, My Style Is: Simple, composition with illus- My Style Is: Bold and My Style Is: Making and calculated graphic. classic subjects. trative and dimensional experiments—a science Known For: Strong Our Style Is: Sleek and polished and sophis- seductive and bold iconic. whatever comes into my Known For: My skill at lighting. lab filled with beautiful compositions. elegant but definitely ticated; juxtaposing compositions. Known For: Beautiful hands visible in a colorful shooting multiple genres. Known For: Creating objects. Editorial Clients: fun. graphic perfection with a Known For: Being a light. and graphic way. Editorial Clients: luxurious, heroic and Known For: The perfect Allure, Vogue, Vanity Known For: Being premium feel. Southern gentleman. Editorial Clients: Known For: Playing Glamour, Marie Claire, tangible images. product shot. Fair easy to work with and Known For: My Editorial Clients: Glamour, Marie Claire, with special effects. Vogue Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: City, Advertising Clients: our good food. (We’re carefully crafted form Details, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue Editorial Clients: Advertising Clients: Ocean Drive, Las Vegas House & Garden, Time Estée Lauder, Victoria’s French!) and impeccable lighting. W Advertising Clients: Bloom, Numéro Tokyo, Cingular, Kinerase, Home & Design, Wynn Advertising Clients: Secret, Revlon Editorial Clients: I highlight shape and Advertising Clients: Elizabeth Arden, German Vogue Kodak Magazine Clinique, Heineken, Contact: Kate Ryan, Harper’s Bazaar, Pop, V texture, creating icons Arnold Worldwide, Publicis, Saatchi Advertising Clients: Contact: Winston West, Advertising Clients: Prescriptives 212-929-5399 Advertising Clients: out of objects. Godiva, Mary Kay Contact: Judy Casey, Cartier, Hugo Boss, 212-691-6788 L’Oréal, Nautica, Target Contact: Marge Chanel, Estée Lauder, Editorial Clients: N/A Contact: Apostrophe, 212-228-7500 Lancôme Contact: Alex Repre- Casey + Associates, MAC Advertising Clients: 212-279-2252 Contact: Management sents, 212-620-0295 212-929-3757 Contact: Management Absolut, Bacardi, + Artists, 212-931-9311 + Artists, 212-931-9311 Samsung Contact: Artists and Creatives, 212-227-5056 beauty still life photographers

A picture may be worth a thousand words, but a great beauty image is potentially a multimillion dollar revenue maker. So when top editors and Asterism Bill Diodato Carlton Davis Doug Rosa Edwin Ho Enrico Vesce Fabrice Gentyl & Hyers Greg Broom Our Style Is: Intricate My Style Is: Clean, My Style Is: To encour- My Style Is: Bold, My Style Is: Quite bold, My Style Is: A strong, Bouquet Our Style Is: Organic My Style Is: Strong, beauty executives want to turn a lighting and a modernist, elegant, beautiful light- age the human element modern and super clean. sometimes shocking, modern aesthetic. My Style Is: Graphic with a strong sense of snappy lighting and minimalist look. ing and a graphic and to find its way into the Known For: Creat- with elements of humor Known For: Bringing with a unique perspec- light. things that are a bit simple tube of lipstick into a lucrative Known For: Our profes- fresh composition. photo and to bring a ing graphic, honest, and surprise. the same artistic vision to tive of space, color and Known For: Collabora- off-kilter. sionalism with clients, Known For: Long sense of personality to straightforward still Known For: Being everything I photograph. texture. tion and finding the Known For: Making work of art, these enterprising our unique coloring and relationships with top the still life. photographs that make theatrical with a strong Editorial Clients: Known For: Special unexpected beauty in the chic images with a sense lighting and our foresight clients. Delivering Known For: Looking for [things] come to life. sense of design. Glamour, Men’s Vogue, textures like bursts of everyday. of humor. Also, a nice shutterbugs are the ones on their in what’s modern exactly what the client ways to evoke emotion, Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: Elle, Vogue powder and water. Editorial Clients: sit-down lunch with speed-dial list. Here, they explain their and cutting-edge in envisions while adding instill a sense of humor Brides, Departures, W Icon, Marie Claire Advertising Clients: Editorial Clients: Martha Stewart Living, good conversation. photography. my own excellent taste and inspire beauty. Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: Acqua di Parma, Joop, French Decor, Elle, O, The Oprah Magazine Editorial Clients: De- intrepid style and offer us a peek at Editorial Clients: into the finished image. Editorial Clients: Apple, Bulgari, Neiman Cingular, Nokia, Pond’s Salvatore Ferragamo French Elle Advertising Clients: tails, French Glamour, Stuff, Trace Urban, Vibe Editorial Clients: Details, Italian Marie Marcus Contact: Marge Casey + Contact: EV Creative, Advertising Clients: Banana Republic, Donna In Style their high-profile client rosters. Advertising Clients: Glamour, Interview, Self Claire, German Vogue Contact: Michael Assoc., 212-929-3757 212-477-0240 Christian Dior, Karan, Eileen Fisher Advertising Clients: NVLA, Shiseido Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: Ginsburg & Assoc., Helena Rubinstein, Contact: Edge, Barneys New York, Cole Contact: Bernstein & John Frieda, Neiman MAC, Sephora, Tiffany ntonov 212-679-8881 Stella McCartney 212-243-2260 Haan, DKNY Compiled By megan mcin t y re A Andriulli, 212-682-1490 Marcus, Prada & Co Contact: WT Manage- Contact: De Facto, Contact: Bernstein & Contact: CLM, ment, 917-701-1154 212-627-4700 Andriulli, 212-682-1490 212-924-6565 photo by pashaphotoby

52 may 2007 may 2007 53 the it list beauty still life photographers

Jack Miskell James T. Jay Zukerkorn Jeff Harris Jenny Van Jesse Frohman Marcel Christ Maria Robledo Mark Platt Mark Roskams Massimo Matthew My Style Is: Clean, crisp, Murray My Style Is: A combina- My Style Is: Often Sommers My Style Is: Classic My Style Is: Showing My Style Is: Natural, My Style Is: Strong My Style Is: Presenting Gammacurta Donaldson iconic and elegant with My Style Is: Clean, tion of strong design and surreal or artificial yet it My Style Is: Best defined photography that shows the unknown beauty raw, simple. artistic direction created a unique look at ordinary My Style Is: Innovative My Style Is: Very pared lighting that encom- iconic, creative shots innovative lighting. also expresses a genuine by concept, form and both the strength and of ordinary things in a Known For: See above. by pure and sharp light- places and objects. and edgy. down. I get rid of any- passes the complete with a sophisticated Known For: Heroic and respect for the subject. space. I draw inspiration elegance of the subject surprising perspective. Editorial Clients: ing intensity. Known For: Abstract Known For: Explosive thing that isn’t essential tonal range, from pure edge. iconic images. Known For: Creating from art, fashion and matter. Known For: A combina- Martha Stewart Living, Known For: A clean, composition combined and original still life to the photograph. bright highlights to deep, Known For: Evocative Editorial Clients: whimsical and irreverent architecture. Known For: Stylized tion of sublime light, Town & Country comfortable environ- with graphic lighting. shots. Known For: A mild form subtle shadows. imagery, edgy layouts 2wice, Spur, Vogue interpretations of Known For: A still lifes as well as strik- technical perfection, Advertising Clients: ment at my DUMBO Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: of conceptualism. Known For: My and sensorial textures. Advertising Clients: familiar objects and minimalist approach ing portraits of artists conceptual impact and Bergdorf Goodman, [Brooklyn] studio, a Architectural Digest, Forbes, King, XXL Editorial Clients: problem-solving with Editorial Clients: Avon, Bliss, Donna situations. and conceptually driven and celebrities. surreal atmosphere. Ralph Lauren, Vera professional team and Metropolitan Home, Advertising Clients: Details, W, Wallpaper both still and moving Centurion, Departures, Karen Editorial Clients: ideas. Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: Wang presenting print-ready, Vogue Alizé, Nike, Wieden & Advertising Clients: liquids, artistic textural Essence Contact: Jed Root, Details, Marie Claire, W Editorial Clients: Harper’s Bazaar, V, Details, In Style, New Contact: Judy Casey, color-corrected images Advertising Clients: Kennedy Coca-Cola, Sony, Virgin treatments of product Advertising Clients: 212-226-6600 Advertising Clients: British Vogue, Chinese Vanity Fair York Times Magazine 212-228-7500 and match prints with Hublot, Hyatt Resorts, Contact: CA Manage- Atlantic crumbles, smears and Estée Lauder, Marc Asics, Accenture, Vogue, French Vogue Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: each job. Macy’s ment, 212-414-2400 Contact: Bill swipes. Jacobs, Victoria’s Secret Bergdorf Goodman Advertising Clients: Clinique, Estée Lauder, Evian, Nike, Redken Editorial Clients: Elle, Contact: CA Manage- Charles Represents, Editorial Clients: Contact: Artists Contact: Bernstein & Audi, Estée Lauder, Nike Barneys New York Contact: Walter Essence, Shape ment, 305-534-7770 212-965-1465 Fitness, Natural Health, by Timothy Priano, Andriulli, 212-682-1490 Contact: CLM, Contact: Chris Boals Schupfer Management, Advertising Clients: Real Simple 212-925-5996 212-924-6565 Artists, 212-924-8810 212-366-4675 Avon, Clinique, Target Advertising Clients: Contact: EV Creative, Clinique, L’Oréal, 212-477-0240 Neutrogena Contact: Anna Maria Landolfo, 212-226-0462

Keate Kenji Toma Kent Larsson Kfir Ziv Koji Yano Lisa Shin Matthew Huber Mike Lorrig Mitchell Monica Nicolas Clerc Nigel Cox My Style Is: Crisp, My Style Is: Conceptual, My Style Is: Clean, My Style Is: Energetic My Style Is: Images that My Style Is: Fresh and My Style Is: Inspired by My Style Is: Clean, Feinberg Stevenson My Style Is: Clean My Style Is: Strong, modern and technically organic and classical. precise and elegant. and precise. blend hyper-realism with elegant with an edge. simple, natural forms. iconic, detail-oriented, My Style Is: To borrow My Style Is: Full of and graphic but never graphic images across a defined. Known For: Breathing Known For: Slightly Known For: Treating playful elegance. Known For: Delivering Known For: Building saturated imaging. a phrase from Supreme passion, life and dynamic clinical or cold as I bring broad range of subject Known For: Clean, life into the inanimate. askew points of view that cosmetics and beauty Known For: A dynamic under pressure. my own machinery, Dimensional lighting Court Justice Potter color. life and sensitivity to matters. graphic, creative imaging Editorial Clients: bring objects to life. subjects as objets d’art. interpretation of each Editorial Clients: In lighting rigs and com- with emphasis on bright Stewart, “I can not define Known For: Bringing an the construction of the Known For: Often with a bit of edge. Exit, New York Times Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: subject and images Style, Jane, Seventeen puter programs to highlights in a minimal- it, but I know it when I elegant yet playful touch image and the objects. choosing a low point of Editorial Clients: Magazine, Teen Vogue Esquire, GQ, New York Elle, New York Times that retain their sense Advertising Clients: master the element of ist environment. see it.” Like pornography. to the masculine world of Known For: My ability view when shooting cos- Glamour, O, The Oprah Advertising Clients: Times Magazine Magazine, WWD of sophistication and Dollhouse Footwear, W movement and velocity Known For: My ability Known For: Shooting still-life photography. to bring life to the picture metics, combined with Magazine, Self Chanel, Estée Lauder, Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: integrity. Contact: 212-217-2602 in liquids for my splashes to create visually clean, in 8-in. x 10-in. film Editorial Clients: and for a sense of humor strong modeled lighting Advertising Clients: L’Oréal Bloomingdale’s, Estée Coty Prestige, L’Oréal, Editorial Clients: and pours imagery. graphic compositions without much need for Money, Veranda, Vibe that can be felt in my to imbue products with a JWT, Matrix, Victoria’s Contact: Creative Lauder, Kiehl’s Shiseido Blackbook, Surface, Editorial Clients: and capture the beauty retouching, and getting Vixen work. majestic feel. Secret Exchange Agency, Contact: Moo Manage- Contact: KZNY Japanese Vogue Esquire, Men’s Fitness, of a product in collabora- into trouble. Advertising Clients: Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: City, Contact: Colleen 212-414-4100 ment, 718-218-8080 Studios, 212-679-2999 Advertising Clients: Out tion with the client’s Editorial Clients: Gillette, Hamilton Numéro Paris, French Esquire, Travel + Leisure McKay Represents, Avon, Calgon, Lever Advertising Clients: objective. L’Officiel Hommes, New Jewelers, Rimmel Vogue, W Advertising Clients: 212-598-0469 2000 Cadbury Schweppes, Editorial Clients: In York Times Magazine, Contact: CA Manage- Advertising Clients: Bergdorf Goodman, Contact: Artwing NY, MasterCard, Shiseido Style, Vogue, Wired Numéro ment, 212-414-2400 Chanel, Hermès, Louis Estée Lauder, Verizon 212-655-5779 Contact: I Group, Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: Vuitton Wireless 212-643-9748 Bloomingdale’s, Helio, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton, Contact: The Katy Contact: Apostrophe, Maybelline Tom Ford Barker Agency, 212-279-2252 Contact: Winston West, Contact: Apostrophe, 212-627-2558 212-691-6788 212-279-2252

54 may 2007 may 2007 55 the it list beauty still life photographers

Phil Marco Plamen Petkov Richard Pierce Robert Tardio Robin Roger Jesus Stephen Lewis Stuart Heir Svend Lindbaek Ted Morrison My Style Is: Iconic, My Style Is: Clean, My Style Is: Iconic, bold My Style Is: Simple, Broadbent Cabello My Style Is: Clean My Style Is: Clean, My Style Is: Graphic and My Style Is: Contem- beautiful lighting simple and minimally and graphic. clean, elegant and My Style Is: To find My Style Is: Cosmetic graphic images that show modern, graphic still textured. porary, clean, clever and achieved from years retouched. Known For: Clean, graphic still life and the sensuality in the compositions that I make the inherent beauty of life with an emphasis on Known For: Beautifully colorful with masterful of working for the film Known For: Sleek, sexy, beautifully lit and beauty imagery. shape of an object while myself with simple the object. beautiful things. and technically brilliant lighting and creative industry and top clients. graphic images. composed cosmetics, Known For: Strong respecting the classic lighting and minimal Known For: Group- Known For: Big, edgy images of smears. design. Known For: My work Editorial Clients: fragrance and skin care conceptual compositions precision of a well-craft- computer manipulation. ing disparate objects images with bold, Editorial Clients: Known For: My use of with directors like Harper’s Bazaar, Self, V products. and clean technical ed photograph. Known For: My cosmet- together to make a clear saturated color, unusual Glamour, In Style, Marie dramatic lighting, bold Martin Scorsese, my Advertising Clients: Editorial Clients: lighting. Known For: Capturing ics work. editorial statement. propping and simplicity. Claire color and imaginative artistry and my flawless L’Oréal, MAC, Olympus Details, Men’s Vogue, W Editorial Clients: a clean perfection with Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: New Editorial Clients: Advertising Clients: composition. technical abilities. Contact: Chris Boals Advertising Clients: Departures, In Style, little or no need for Allure, Cosmopolitan, York Times Magazine, Avenue, Hint, Rolling Almay, Estée Lauder, Editorial Clients: In Editorial Clients: N/A Artists, 212-924-8810 Avon, Clinique, Estée Vogue retouching. Preen Vogue, W Stone Maybelline Style, Interior Design, Advertising Clients: Lauder Advertising Clients: Editorial Clients: New Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: Contact: Blitz NY, Robb Report Giorgio Armani, Contact: Ca1ca2, Avon, Coach, Talbots York Times Magazine, Estée Lauder, L’Oréal, Clinique, Coach, Dove Beauty Addicts, Bulova, 212-533-1229 Advertising Clients: Lancôme, Van Cleef & 212-219-9502 Contact: Janice Numéro, V Maybelline Contact: Art + Com- Mouawad Bliss, Estée Lauder, Arpels Moses Represents, Advertising Clients: Contact: Cake-Factory, merce, 212-206-0737 Contact: Redux L’Oréal Contact: Bernstein & 212-898-4898 Estée Lauder, Rolex, 212-337-3663 Pictures, 212-253-0399 Contact: Clare Agency, Andriulli, 212-682-1490 Tom Ford 212-587-9009 Contact: The Katy Barker Agency, 212-627-2558 CEW ad

Ryann Cooley Sang An Shinichi Shu Akashi Simone Stan Musilek Thomas C. Card Timothy Hogan Toby McFarlan My Style Is: That of My Style Is: Clean, Maruyama My Style Is: Fiercely Rosenberg My Style Is: An eclectic My Style Is: Whimsical, My Style Is: Elegant and Pond someone who focuses graphic, feminine, My Style Is: A contrast creative while maintain- My Style Is: Straightfor- blend of fashion-inspired iconic and diverse. luxurious simplicity. My Style Is: Something Declined to on the conceptual and organic and delicate. between conscientious ing a sense of simple ward and clear but still advertising. Known For: Artful Known For: Exact light- elegant. participate: delivers polished images Known For: Graphic technical precision precision. unconventional. Known For: An innova- problem-solving. ing, the ability to distill Known For: Shooting Christopher Baker, that feel very up-to-date. compositions and and free, spontaneous Known For: My Known For: High-end, tive, seamless and fresh Editorial Clients: the essence of whatever groundbreaking still Ilan Rubin, Known For: Working elegant lighting. motion, resulting in innovative melding hyper-realistic still point of view of people Harper’s Bazaar, New subject I face and for life and beauty work for James Wojcik, with products like the Editorial Clients: Elle one-of-a-kind images. of avant-garde and life, architecture and and products. York Times Magazine, being easy to work with. campaigns and editorial. Richard Burbridge, new Intel chip and bring- Decor, Martha Stewart Known For: My work traditional ideals in landscape photography. Editorial Clients: Vogue Editorial Clients: Editorial Clients: Sivan Lewin ing out the attributes Living, O, The Oprah with liquids, movement photography. Editorial Clients: Citizen K, Numéro, Advertising Clients: Absolute, City, Vogue Arena Homme+, Pop, W that [it] has to offer. Also Magazine and splashes. Editorial Clients: V, Amica, Five to Nine, Vogue Coty, Elizabeth Arden, Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: for working with liquids, Advertising Clients: Editorial Clients: Vogue Nippon, W Wallpaper Advertising Clients: L’Oréal Calvin Klein, David Yur- Calvin Klein, Cartier, splashes and pours. Coach, Godiva, 125 Magazine, Arena, Advertising Clients: Advertising Clients: Absolut, Adidas, Apple Contact: Judy Casey, man, Tommy Hilfiger Prada Beauty Editorial Clients: Williams-Sonoma Interview Cartier, Estée Lauder, Dove, GM, Louis Vuitton Contact: 415-621-5336 212-228-7500 Contact: CA Manage- Contact: M.A.P., Departures, Ladies’ Contact: Sarah Laird, Advertising Clients: Heineken Contact: Corbis ment, 212-414-2400 212-677-2690 Home Journal, Redbook 212-334-4280 Neutrogena, Origins, Contact: Walter Artist Representation, Advertising Clients: Smirnoff Schupfer, 212-366-4675 212-375-7719 Intel, Playtex, Samsung Contact: Artists & Contact: Robert Creatives, 212-227-5056 Bacall Representatives, 212-695-1729

56 may 2007 may 2007 57 last call

Coty built these areas in Second Life for the launch of ckIN2U.

Second (life) Coming How the virtual world is gaining real-world credibility with the beauty community.

Bunny Forwzy, a slim Twentysome- don-based “immersive spaces” agency that created thing with cropped black hair, has a penchant the ck area, acknowledges that consumers cannot for beauty. She adores spritzing fragrance on her smell scents in Second Life, but points out that they wrists and mulling over lip gloss shades, but lately, can’t sniff a billboard or TV advertisement either. she’s been busy. Forwzy, you see, is an online char- Fragrance, after all, is also about imagery and, acter in the virtual world called Second Life. At in this case, experience, Bovington says, adding present, she is preoccupied with knocking chores that virtual communities are the new malls and off her to-do list: Make friends with fellow avatars clubs for Generation Y, who define themselves by (translation: customized virtual characters); ex- their modes of communication. “In Second Life, change U.S. money for “Linden dollars,” Second Avatars check consumers are choosing to have a relationship with Life’s official currency, and build a virtual home. out Lancôme brands rather than being bombarded with market- Hypnôse Homme. Pixel by pixel, the limitless possibilities of Second ing messages,” he observes. Life are unfurling in front of her. Forwzy, one of Companies that build a long-term presence in nearly 6.1 million registered users on the site owned by San Francisco-based this “accelerated culture” are generally welcomed, he notes, adding that Adi- Linden Labs, will find that beauty giants Coty and L’Oréal have recently das, which sells virtual trainers to avatars, saw Second Life sales outstrip retail also discovered Second Life. L’Oréal Paris staged a Miss Second Life beauty sales at one point. The athletic brand now uses the site for trend-spotting. contest in March for 250 avatars just like her. Suddenly, the four-year-old site Lancôme has also entered the virtual space to promote its Hypnôse Hom- is piquing the interest of other major beauty players. The Estée Lauder Cos. me scent. Any time an avatar touches a digitally reproduced bottle—placed in and Procter & Gamble (which has a small corporate presence on Second Life) strategic (albeit digital) locations, it is spritzed with the juice. do not currently have launch efforts planned for the site, but their executives Michel Campan, vice president of interactive marketing and customer admit they are intrigued by the workings of the budding online community. relationship manager at Lancôme International, notes that while marketers Calvin Klein was the first to launch a fragrance in Second Life, introducing on Second Life cannot measure traffic or clicks, as they can on a branded Web its ckIN2U men’s and women’s fragrances there in March. Visitors to the site, they can gage buzz. Hypnôse Homme has been duplicated more than area can pick up virtual bottles and spritz their neighbors. All avatars are also 800 times by Second Life avatars in their personal areas. Encouraged, the invited to display photos of what they’re “in2” in the scent’s gallery space. “We brand is considering more such projects. always knew we wanted to take a new approach,” says Lori Singer, global vice Reuben Steiger, ceo of Millions Of Us, a San Francisco-based social media president of marketing for Calvin Klein at Coty. “We felt instinctively that agency, says that, just like in the real world, commerce is welcomed in Second this is a community we wanted to know more about.” She notes that a host of Life. “Fashion and beauty brands are particularly well suited because so much influential bloggers are denizens of Second Life, and have generated reams of of what goes on in these communities revolves around modifying one’s looks,” commentary on ck’s effort. An article in Second Life’s Reuters News Center says Steiger, adding that the average Second Life user is 32 years old, and ran with the headline, “Launching a scent in a fragrance-free world.” while about 60 percent are men and 40 percent female, women account for Justin Bovington, chief executive officer of Rivers Run Red, the Lon- 60 percent of the site’s usage hours. — Molly Prior (aka Bunny Forwzy)

58 May 2007