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the insider’s beauty bible A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION Leaders Outline Plans for Changing Times Shiseido’s Shinzo Maeda Victoria’s Secret’s Christine Beauchamp N.V. Perricone’s Shashi Batra Jurlique’s Eli Halliwell Frédéric Fekkai’s Melisse Shaban PLUS Fall Fragrances CHIEF Edible Beauty Second Life EXECUTIVE AGENDAS L’Oréal’s Jean-Paul Agon Plots a New Course for Growth Contents DEPARTMENTS 16 People, Places & Lipsticks Inside-out beauty, the lighting guru and an unsual take on the manicure. 20 What’s In Store Beach-ready essentials, artistic cosmetics and relief for stressed-out strands. 26 A Closer Look: Fragrance The comeback of classic flowers, not to mention the return of more celebrity scents. 52 The It List: Beauty Still Life Photographers When these artists get behind the camera, the results are more than just a pretty picture. They’re money-making masterpieces. 58 Last Call: Second (Life) Coming In our tech-savvy times, more beauty brands are embracing the undeniable tug of marketing products in a virtual world. FEATURES 30 Agon In Command L’Oréal’s ceo sets the stage for a new era at the French beauty company. And the analysts weigh in. 38 Beauty CEO Pop Quiz What’s on William Lauder’s reading list? And how does Maureen Chiquet keep her cool? Beauty’s top brass reveal all. 40 Young & Royally Talented Say hello to four emerging beauty bosses who are taking the industry into new territory. Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer and Carsten Fischer flank ceo Shinzo Maeda, whose sweeping changes will soon be felt 44 Quiet Giant beyond Japan’s borders. After reorganizing Shiseido’s domestic business, ceo Shinzo Maeda is tackling China. The U.S. market is brightening up, too. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, VOLUME 193, NO. 106, May 18, 2007, WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is pub- business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 lished daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online ON TH E COVer Jean-Paul Agon June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World photographed in April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. 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KENSHUPHOTOBY SANNOHE 8 MAY 2007 contributors Michelle Edgar AssOCIATE BEAUTY FEATURES EDITOR Pete Born “Fragrance isn’t like fashion where there are EXECUTIVE EDITOR, clear trends for each season,” says WWD’s BEAUTY Michelle Edgar, who has written several fra- Having spent nearly 30 grance articles over the past year. “Everything years writing and report- is a little more blurred and happens over an ing for WWD, Pete Born extended period, so it’s harder to distinguish understands the historic what the trends are.” Despite the complexities significance of profiling of the task, Edgar did relish the assignment Jean-Paul Agon, who because of her own fascination with scents. “I stepped up just last year to love the mystery behind fragrance, and how it run L’Oréal, the perennial smells different to each person,” she says. “What world leader in beauty. I might like, and the smell it has on my skin, is When asked how many totally unique.” times he had written a major feature on Agon’s Megan McIntyre predecessor, Sir Lindsay AssISTANT EDITOR Owen-Jones, Born had “As the keeper of the keys to the beauty closet, I’m to take a moment to the natural choice to review products for the ‘What’s count out loud, to five. He In Store’ section,” says WWD Beauty Biz’s Megan explains: “I think they’ve McIntyre. The New York state native spends most only had five chief execu- of her time living every glamour girl’s dream of tive officers in the whole corporation’s life, so when you get a new ceo, researching the newest beauty offerings, as well as it’s a monumental event. This is a new era.” reporting on trends such as this month’s piece on the convergence of food and cosmetics. “I really enjoyed Betsy Lowther speaking with Horst Rechelbacher of Intelligent CORREspONDENT Nutrients for that story,” she says. “It’s so inspiring to WWD’s Singapore-based cor- listen to someone who is so dedicated to making an respondent Betsy Lowther profiled impact on the environment.” Shiseido’s Shinzo Maeda for this month’s ceo issue. “We tend to think Roberto Frankenberg of Shiseido just as a beauty brand, PHOTOGRAPHER but to see its historical elements as Brazilian-born photographer Roberto well was fascinating,” she says. “[Mr. Frankenberg has a knack for capturing Maeda and his team] have done a simple yet elegant portraits of celebrities great job preserving that aspect of the and common folk alike. For his cover company.” Lowther’s research took shoot with L’Oréal ceo Jean-Paul Agon, her to the heart of Tokyo, where the Frankenberg was prepared to work quickly. popularity of Shiseido is at its peak. “When shooting ceo’s, you have to be very “The things they are doing are really fast since most give you very little time, and invigorating the [business],” she says. get impatient quite soon,” he says, adding “It’s getting a shot of adrenaline right that Agon actually defied the norm by being now, and it was exciting to witnesses “a very good model—cooperative, patient that for a few days.” and very kind.” Julie Naughton Pat Morgan SENIOR BEAUTY EDITOR ILLUSTRATOR This month, WWD’s Julie Naughton London-based graphic designer and profiled two ceo’s on everybody’s radar illustrator Patrick Morgan likes to “push screen: Christine Beauchamp of Victoria’s the boundaries of drawing rather than Secret and Shashi Batra of N.V. Perricone using photography,” which is just what M.D. Cosmeceuticals. Appearances, she he did for the profiles in this issue’s has learned, can be deceiving. “Christine young ceo story. When Morgan isn’t is very girly-girl, but at the same time she’s illustrating for magazines and advertise- a take-charge, no-nonsense business- ments, he’s running his illustration woman. And people think that Shashi is agency Farm and lecturing to students shy and quiet, but he’s a risk-taker, and at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan and he’s very plugged in.” It takes one to know London, passing along the craft to a one. “I love my job,” says Naughton. “No whole new crop of artists. It’s no surprise two days are ever the same. Lately, I’ve then that Morgan was impressed with been busy interviewing a lot of rap artists, his latest subjects: “The people being because so many are coming out with their illustrated are so young and influential,” own fragrance!” he says. 10 MAY 2007 the insider’s beauty bible A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION Pete Born Executive Editor, Beauty Jenny B. Fine Editor Kim-Van Dang Consulting Editor Jennifer Weil European Beauty Editor Andrea Nagel Mass Market Beauty Editor Julie Naughton Senior Prestige Market Beauty Editor Molly Prior Mass Market Beauty News Editor Matthew W. Evans Beauty News Editor Michelle Edgar Associate Beauty Features Editor Faye Brookman Contributing Editor Megan McIntyre Assistant Editor Katharine Jones Editorial Intern Deborah Boylan Copy Editor CONTRIBUTORS Samantha Conti, Brid Costello and Nina Jones (London),