2020 Women's Product Information Guide

Home , Boiled wool, Car coat, Duster (clothing), Houndstooth, Palazzo pants, Pendleton Woolen Mills

2020 WOMEN’S PRODUCT INFORMATION GUIDE 2 Pendleton Shirts - It's All About the Wool From the very beginning, Pendleton shirts have been defined by Pendleton fabrics. The strength and durability of a Pendleton shirt starts with 100% virgin wool. No other fiber can take or hold a dye like wool, so our yarn-dyed plaids stay true and vibrant for generations. This means that a Pendleton wool shirt is an investment in quality that can be passed from mother to daughter to granddaughter.

Our earliest shirts from the 1920s and 1930s were often sewn of solids and mixes. Then came the plaids, from the subtle ombres and shadow plaids of the 1940s and 1950s, to the brighter checks and tartans of the 1960s and 1970s. A Pendleton plaid is recognizable at a glance.

Plaids and Tartans – There is a Difference!

All tartans are plaids, but not all plaids are tartans. Tartans often have broad bands of colors, always at right angles to each other, mixed with narrow horizontals and verticals. In Scotland, a clan often has its very own identifiable tartan colored in a very specific way that is registered with the Scottish Register of Tartans. Pendleton identifies authentic tartans with special supplemental hangtags.

3 PENDLETON FABRIC NAMES

AirLoomTM Merino Fabrics Our lightest wool fabrics, woven in our Pacific Northwest mills of the finest worsted merino wool yarn. Naturally odor- and wrinkle-resistant. Woven to be tailored, with a fine hand and smooth finish.

New Fabric! replaces Zephyr replaces Sir Pen replaces Sir Pen Twill

LuxeWeave Merino Fabrics Luxurious merino wool fabrics with soft, brushed finishes that lend a cashmere-like touch. Our lightest wool fabrics, woven in our Pacific Northwest mills of the finest worsted merino wool yarn. Naturally odor- and wrinkle-resistant. Woven to be tailored, with a fine hand and smooth finish. replaces UltraFine Merino replaces Whisperwool

Umatilla Wool 100% Virgin Wool. Medium weight 10.1 oz virgin wool shirting material. Versatile outdoor and indoor wear. Plain weave. Takes its name from Oregon’s Umatilla County, home of the Pendleton, Oregon mill and where Pendleton has been buying wool from local sheep ranchers for generations.

4 BENEFITS of WOOL Wool is the ﬁrst choice for ﬁne tailored garments because of its superior ability to be shaped to the vision of the designer, and retain that shape year after year.

In a time of sustainability and environmental consciousness, this SUST AINABLE biodegradable renewable resource remains longer-lasting and & RENEWA BLE better looking than synthetic fabrics.

The unique characteristics of the individual wool ﬁbers give our RESILIENT fabrics the ability to hold a shape, resist wrinkles and withstand & W INKLE- wear. This makes wool great for travel. Wool can be stretched or ESIST ANT twisted and its cells return to their original position.

Wool ﬁbers spring back to shape keeping their open, porous nature. Wool provides the most warmth with the least weight. NATURALLY The air trapped inside (about of wool fabric volume) makes COM F O T ABLE wool an excellent insulator. Wool is Nature’s original outdoor “performance” ﬁber.

Unless it is in direct contact with ﬂame, wool will extinguish FLAME itself. The denser the weave and the greater the fabric weight, the less likely it is to char because of its smaller oxygen content. ESISTANT Fire departments recommend the use of wool blankets, rugs or coats to put out ﬂames.

Wool has a permanent natural luster it never loses, even aer LUST OUS & years of hard wear. It absorbs dyes until it is completely saturated FADE RESISTANT so colors stay brilliant. No other ﬁber can be spun or woven into such a variety of weights, textures, ﬁnishes and colors.

Wool repels light water, like a rain shower, because of the membrane on the outer scales. In very wet conditions, wool can W ATE & S T A I N absorb up to % of its own weight without feeling damp. And EPELLENT because of insulation ability, wool “breathes,” allowing the body’s natural moisture to pass through.

Pendleton sources wool om more than different breeds of SU P ISINGLY sheep, so that we can match the qualities of the fiber to the finished VA RIED fabrics. By controlling the entire manufacturing process, we can create the best fabric for each use.

WAANTED TO BE A PENDLETON WOOL EN MILLS PORTLAND, O USA 5

WOMEN’S BOARD SHIRT® TM391 TM406 Two matched flap pockets, button front, slightly shaped shirt tail hem. 100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

COOPER COVERED PLACKET SHIRT TM420 TM425 TM431 New style in AirLoom® stretch worsted wool! Covered front placket, shirt tail hem. 97% Virgin Wool/3% lYCRA® SPANDEX

BOYFRIEND ZIP WOOL HOODIE TM413 Button front, matched front kangaroo pockets, hood with drawstring, slimming diagonal front seams with pockets, rounded hem. 100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

PIPER CROPPED SHIRT TM341 TM401 Button-front, two bias-cut front patch pockets, inverted center back pleat, straight hem. 100% Ultraluxe Merino Wool

CROPPED LODGE SHIRT TM332

Button front, one matched button-through pocket, shirt tail hem. 100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

6 WOOL SHIRT STYLES

JACQUARD CROPPED LODGE SHIRT TM328 Button front, one chest pocket, shirt tail hem. 100% Virgin Wool

WESTON WOOL SHIRT TM402 Button front, one open chest pocket, shirt tail hem. 100% Virgin Wool

WOOL-GAUZE STYLES

HELENA BUTTON FRONT SHIRT TM311 Button front, oversized fit, one chest pocket, shirt tail hem. 80% modal, 20% wool

BUTTON FRONT DRESS TJ339 Button front, band collar, self belt, shirt tail hem. 80% modal, 20% wool WITH 100% polyester lining

7 NON-WOOL SHIRT STYLES

PRIMARY FLANNEL SHIRT TM227 TM258 Button front, one chest pocket, shirttail hem in super soft flannel. 100% Cotton

ELBOW PATCH FLANNEL SHIRT TM309 TM338 Button front, bias back yoke, two peaked flap button-through chest pockets, shirttail hem, self-fabric elbow patch in soft flannel. 100% Cotton

GRAPHIC L/S SHIRT TM428 Button front, two pleated chest pockets with button flaps, high/low hem with vents at hip. 100% silk

8 VINTAGE INSPIRATION

THE ’49er™ RETRO TF477 Lined, button front, patch pockets at hip, one patch chest pocket, all pockets cut on the bias, shirt cuff, straight hem, longer shaped body. 100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

The Pendleton ’49er™ is a perfect illustration of the adage that quality never goes out of style.

This jacket is an American classic, still going strong after more than sixty years. But where did it come from?

Pendleton’s success with men’s shirts had happened twenty years earlier, but during WWII, men were not the only people enjoying distinctive plaids and ombres in pure virgin wool. Women began to borrow men’s work shirts for both work and warmth. Women loved Pendleton shirts.

In 1949, when market research identified an opportunity for sportswear for women, Pendleton entered the market with their first women’s line. This was a test offering of five classic skirts, jackets and a shirt, to test exactly how the American woman would react to a branded line of virgin wool sportswear. The positive response was resounding, but no one could have predicted the enormous success of a single garment introduced that year. The ’49er™.

9 VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The designer was Berte Wiechmann, a young woman who came to Pendleton from Jantzen, another iconic Portland apparel company. Miss Wiechmann sewed the original samples herself, taking styling particulars from the Pendleton men’s shirt. The ’49er™ jacket featured discreet tucking at the yoke, and two bias-cut patch pockets near the hem. The boxy cut showcased Pendleton’s famous plaids, and larger iridescent shell buttons softened the look.

The desirability of the ’49er™ was immediate, despite the introductory retail price range of $14.95 to $17.95. Says Linda Parker, head of Pendleton Communications, “We have many testimonials of how young women saved their babysitting and strawberry-picking money in order to buy a ’49er™. Women everywhere had it on their wish list of gifts.” The first consumer was the collegiate girl, who were in the grips of a menswear inspired trend. The ’49er™ was perfect over a white cotton dress shirt over “trews,” narrow wool pants.

The earliest ’49er™ in the Pendleton archives is a red, yellow and chartreuse version owned by Mrs. Sarah Brourink, who sent it to our archives in the year 2000 after wearing it for 51 years. Here is a vintage example in the exact plaid.

In the years of its prime (1949-1961), over a million Pendleton ’49ers™ were sold to American women. And it continues to sell well now, after re-introduction in the early 2000s.

10 SWEATER STYLES

Heritage Designs These sweaters use our famed geometric patterns, designs from our century-plus of blanket weaving. In cotton, merino, alpaca, and lambswool, our storied past inspires the most popular looks of today. TC969, TC057, TC973, TC972, TC835, TC993, TC010, TC022, TC995, TC992, TC980, TC984

11 SWEATER STYLES

Merino Key Items Soft to the touch, silky next to the skin, merino wool is a perfect base layer in Fall and Winter. In vibrant Pendleton colors, these items are an excellent value for long wear, resistance to pilling, and ability to hold shape, season after season. TC961, TC923, TJ337, TC886, TC391

Shetland Classic sweaters with refreshed style. Our Shetland program is sourced with New Zealand wool, known for humane and sustainable sheep ranching. TC910, TC023

12 JACQUARD WOOL OUTERWEAR

Blanket Inspiration Pendleton outerwear is an investment in enduring quality, thanks to the jacquard-loomed wool fabrics inspired by our wool blanket patterns.

TF543, TF557 - Sierra Ridge / Sierra Peak TE188 - Tan Harding TF534 - Tan Chief Joseph TE213 - Black/Tan Harding TE215 - Sunset Stripe TE219 - Glacier Park TF544, TE233 - Sonora TE230 - Grey Plains Star TE204 - Santa Rosa TE218 - Navy Plains Star 13 JACQUARD STORIES

Pendleton fabrics tell stories. Since the early 20th century, our looms have woven designs that honor legendary locations and heroes. Here are the stories behind some of the patterns for Fall 2020.

Sierra Ridge / Sierra Peak - TF543, TC057, TF557, TM238

The Sierra Nevadas are the traditional grounds of many Native peoples. The Sierra Miwok, Mono, Kawaiisu, Northern Paiute and Tubatulabal tribes have lived and hunted here. The Paiutes called its tallest granite peak Tumanguya, or, “the Very Old Man.” Also called Mt. Whitney, it is the highest point in the contiguous United States. The mountains of the 400-mile range are represented by stepped peaks, with arrows guarding the streams and rivers of the Great Basin watershed.

Chief Joseph - TC973, TF534, TC972

First woven in the 1920s, the Chief Joseph pattern has been one of Pendleton’s most popular ever since its introduction. Chief Joseph led the Nez Perce tribe of northeastern Oregon in the late 1800s, and was widely admired for protecting his people and speaking the truth. He is honored with this design of bold arrowheads that represent his courage, strength and integrity.

Sonora - TF544, TC977, TE233

The Sonoran Desert in the Southwestern United States and Northern Mexico is the largest and hottest desert in North America, with a mystical landscape that features the rare and unique plant life that’s adapted to the harshness of the climate. Peaks and hooks represent these botanical wonders. The long-armed Saguaro cactus stretches its arms to the desert sky, along with Sonora’s other spiny, spiky cacti; organ pipe, cholla, prickly pear, fish hook and more.

Harding - TE188, TE213, TC022, TC995

In 1923, President Warren G. Harding and his wife traveled to Oregon to dedicate a part of the Old Oregon Trail. At the ceremony, local Cayuse and Umatilla leaders presented the First Lady with a custom Pendleton fringed shawl. This pattern came to be known as the Harding pattern, after First Lady Florence Harding.

Glacier Park - TE219, TC983, TC979

On a background of white, stripes of black, yellow, scarlet and green represent Montana’s spring wildflowers blooming among the glaciers, lakes and rivers of Glacier National Park.

Plains Star - TE230, TC980, TC984, TE218

Great Plains Native Americans used an eight-pointed geometric star on hide paintings, tipis, beaded moccasins and clothing, with each point corresponding to one of the planets that shine as the Morning Star. The Lakota Sioux have translated their heritage of painted buffalo robes into intricate and dazzling quilts featuring this motif. Using muted colors that echo the original painted hides, the Morning Star rises, promising a new day.

14 STYLE GLOSSARY

DRESS STYLES Straight Leg Pant with a consistent straight line from Shift Dress hip to ankle. A straight dress with a loose-fitting waist.

Trouser Coat Dress A loosely tailored pant that is sometimes A tailored dress that fastens in the front, (but not always) pleated at the waist and often belted, resembling a coat. cuffed at the hem.

Jumper Wide Leg A collarless, sleeveless dress that can be A pant with a relaxed a-line fit through the leg worn over a top or blouse. that can range from stovepipe to palazzo pants.

Sheath Dress A knee-length dress cut close to the body. OUTERWEAR STYLES Cape Shirt Dress or Shirtwaist Dress A sleeveless cloak. A dress that borrows its styling from a men’s dress shirt, with collar, placket, and cuffs. Car Coat A shorter, more squarely shaped coat, short Wrap Dress enough not to be sat on by the driver of a car. A dress that crosses over or wraps, with a front tie or button closure to one side. A Duster “mock wrap” has the crossover styling, but Light loose fitting long coat. The original is sewn in place. full-length dusters were worn by horsemen to protect clothing from dust. PANT STYLES Moto Jacket Bootcut Jackets with style details (zippers, waist- Flaring slightly under the knee to be worn cinches) based on the traditional leather over boots easily. motorcycle jacket.

Crop Pant Pea Coat or Peacoat Pants are hemmed above the ankle bone. A short double-breasted heavy wool coat, traditionally worn by sailors. Slim or Skinny Snugly fitted through the entire leg with Coat vs. Jacket a small leg opening, these pants keep a Coats are longer than jackets. Jackets reach trim silhouette. the waist or hip, while coats reach the thigh or longer!

15 STYLE GLOSSARY

Quilted Jacket SKIRT STYLES Made with “pockets” of insulation material separated from each other A-line by stitching. Fitted at the hips and widening out to the hem, for a triangular shape. Riding Jacket Inspired by traditional equestrian style, Boot Skirt a shaped jacket with a back vent and Also known as a prairie skirt, it is long enough three pockets. so that only the boots of the wearer show.

Shawl Pencil Skirt A larger triangular or rectangular garment A very narrow and straight skirt, often worn wrapped around the shoulders and with a “kick pleat” in back to allow for sometimes the head. some movement.

Swing Coat Pleated Skirt A coat that flares dramatically from the Pleats are parallel folds of fabric stitched in shoulders, cut for movement and swing. place. Pleated skirts can be pleated in front or all around, with pleats that are open Trench from the waistband, or stitched down to lie A loose raincoat with military lines, belted flatter on the hips. at the waist, based on military coats worn in the trenches. Reversible Skirt Pendleton’s famous pleated skirt, known Vest as a “Turnabout,” can be turned inside out A sleeveless jacket. and worn with either side out. It is carefully finished so that both sides are garment-ready.

Walker A knee-length coat meant to be worn Wrap Skirt while walking. A skirt that wraps around and is secured at the waist with a tie or buttons.

Wrap A triangular or rectangular garment worn SWEATER STYLES wrapped around the shoulders. Cardigan A long or short sleeved sweater that buttons Wrap Coat up the front. A coat that wraps around the wearer, secured with a belt rather than buttons.

16 STYLE GLOSSARY

Coatigan Cowl A sweater coat that buttons up the front. Loosely draped folds at the neckline.

Duster Crew Neck A long, open sweater with no (or minimal) A close, round neckline, associated with fasteners in the front. t-shirts and plain sweaters.

Poncho Turtleneck A pull-on cape; the only opening is for A tube-shaped knit neck that folds over on the head. itself.

Pullover Scoop A sweater that is pulled on over the head. A U-shaped neckline.

Shawl Collar Sweetheart This sweater has an exaggerated This retro neckline is low at the front and fold-over self-collar. shaped like the top of a stylized heart.

Tunic V-neck A sweater that extends to the wearer’s A V-shaped neckline. thighs, often loosely fitted. STYLE TERMS Vest A sleeveless sweater, meant to be worn over Asymmetrical a blouse or top. A design that uses asymmetry, as patterns, cut or styling that do not match each other.

NECKLINES Banded Collar Ballet A standing band-shaped collar, also known Based on a ballerina’s dance leotard, it as mandarin or cadet. scoops modestly in front and lower in back. Bias-cut Bateau or Boat Neck Cut diagonally across the grain of the fabric. Runs wide from shoulder to shoulder across the collarbones. Cable A knitting stitch that reproduces the look of a line of twisted ropes. First seen in fisherman’s sweaters.

17 STYLE GLOSSARY

Color Blocking Pleat A design that uses contrasting panels or Folds of definite, even width made by blocks of contrasting colors. doubling cloth, pressed or stitched in place.

Double-breasted Princess Seams In jackets, overlapping front panels are Long seams that follow the lines of a secured with two columns of buttons. woman’s shape, giving shape to garments.

Flap Pocket Raw Edge/Selvage A patch pocket that has an additional flap of Raw edges are not finished and designed to fabric sewn above the pocket, to cover and fray. Fabric selvage is woven in order not to close it. fray, but is not finished in any other way.

Inverted Pleat Reversible A box pleat that has the fullness turned inward. Able to be worn on both sides—a reversible garment is never inside-out! Matched Plaid Matching plaids or patterns is done by Shawl Collar carefully making sure that the flow of a A rounded turned-down collar without any pattern is not interrupted at seam lines or lapel notches that extends down the front of pockets. This is painstaking work, done a garment. while the garment is being cut. Toggle Notch Lapel An ornamental rod-shaped button that fits When the collar is sewn to the lapel at an through a loop or a large buttonhole. angle, creating a step effect. Vent Patch Pocket A vertical slit at the hem of a garment to A pocket made of a separate piece of cloth, improve ease of movement and fit. sewn to the outside of a garment. Yoke Peplum A shaped pattern piece at the shoulder or A short, attached overskirt on a jacket, dress hip, which provides fit and support for the of blouse. looser parts of a garment.

Placket The opening on the front of a garment that gives access to buttons or zippers; traditionally, the strip of fabric that covers the fastenings.

18 FABRIC GLOSSARY

FIBERS, TEXTILES & WEAVES Dobby Dobby is a woven fabric produced on the Alpaca Wool dobby loom, characterized by small geometric A natural hypoallergenic fiber harvested patterns and extra texture in the cloth. from the Alpaca; luxurious, silky, durable and naturally water-repellent. Double Face A form of double cloth made of one warp Angora and two sets of wefts, or (less often) two The downy coat of the Angora rabbit; silky warps and one weft. These fabrics have two texture, thin fibers, and fluffiness. right sides or faces and no wrong side.

Boiled Wool Fair Isle Knitted wool fabric is treated with heat, A traditional knitting technique used to moisture and agitation to create this create patterns with multiple colours. It is comfortable, rich textured, felt-like fabric. named after Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of Scotland, that forms part of the Cashmere Shetland islands. Fur from the Kashmir goat, primarily raised in Mongolia; used in knits and wovens for a Faux Suede, Leather, Fur luxurious, lightweight, silky feel. Synthetic re-creations of pelts or skins.

Corduroy Houndstooth A textile composed of twisted fibers that, A duotone textile pattern characterized when woven, lie parallel (similar to twill) by broken checks or abstract four-pointed to one another to form the cloth's distinct shapes, often in black and white, although pattern, a "cord." other colours are used. The classic houndstooth pattern is an example of a Cotton tessellation. Cotton is a white, soft, breathable and downy crop, used to make fabric and yarn. Knit Made from interlocking loops of thread. Crepe De Chine or CDC Knit fabric has varying degrees of stretch, A light, soft, silk or synthetic fabric with from slight to extreme elasticity. minute irregularities of surface. Merino Jacquard Wool shorn from Merino sheep. Fabrics made on special looms or knitting The finest wool. machines that create intricate designs; these fabrics range from lightweight worsteds to Polyester heavier woolen blanket cloth. Synthetic derived from petroleum.

19 FABRIC GLOSSARY

Lambswool Umatilla Wool Wool from the first shearing of a lamb. 100% Virgin Wool. Medium weight 10.1 oz virgin wool shirting material. Versatile Rib Knit outdoor and indoor wear. Plain weave. Fabric knit with a reverse of knit and purl Takes its name from Oregon’s Umatilla stitches, creating stripes or ridges. County, home of the Pendleton, Oregon mill and where Pendleton has been Rayon buying wool from local sheep ranchers for A fabric made of extruded wood products. generations. Machine washable.

Silk UltraLuxe Merino A fabric spun from the very fine fibers 100% Virgin Wool. The finest virgin wool excreted by the silk moth. yarns are spun and woven into UltraLuxe Merino. Wrinkle and odor-resistant thanks to the fiber, which wicks away moisture and Slub releases it during hanger time. Wear this A lump or thick place in yarn or thread, shirt many times between cleanings; it’s used as a decorative inclusion in silks and made for it. Weight 9.2 oz. Dry clean. sweater knits.

Worsted Spandex A fine smooth yarn spun from combed An elastic polyurethane fiber added for long-staple wool. stretch to many weaves.

20 Pendleton, Oregon Mill, Since 1909

Washougal, Washington Mill, Since 1912

Pendleton wool shirt fabrics are woven in one of two company-owned USA mills, using 100% virgin wool. The Pendleton weaving legacy dates to 1863, when founder Thomas Kay arrived in Oregon. A British master weaver, Kay worked in mills and went on to establish his own in Salem, Oregon (now a museum). His daughter, Fanny Kay Bishop, guided her three sons in the purchase of an idled mill in Pendleton, Oregon, which reopened in 1909 with the full support of the community. The Washougal mill began operations in 1912, expanding the range of fabrics. Both mills are still weaving today under the leadership of the Bishop family, descendants of Thomas Kay.

May 2020