History of Apparel Design, from Ancient Time to Covid 19 Situations
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“Grunge Killed Glam Metal” Narrative by Holly Johnson
The Interplay of Authority, Masculinity, and Signification in the “Grunge Killed Glam Metal” Narrative by Holly Johnson A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate and Postdoctoral Affairs in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Music and Culture Carleton University Ottawa, Ontario © 2014, Holly Johnson ii Abstract This thesis will deconstruct the "grunge killed '80s metal” narrative, to reveal the idealization by certain critics and musicians of that which is deemed to be authentic, honest, and natural subculture. The central theme is an analysis of the conflicting masculinities of glam metal and grunge music, and how these gender roles are developed and reproduced. I will also demonstrate how, although the idealized authentic subculture is positioned in opposition to the mainstream, it does not in actuality exist outside of the system of commercialism. The problematic nature of this idealization will be examined with regard to the layers of complexity involved in popular rock music genre evolution, involving the inevitable progression from a subculture to the mainstream that occurred with both glam metal and grunge. I will illustrate the ways in which the process of signification functions within rock music to construct masculinities and within subcultures to negotiate authenticity. iii Acknowledgements I would like to thank firstly my academic advisor Dr. William Echard for his continued patience with me during the thesis writing process and for his invaluable guidance. I also would like to send a big thank you to Dr. James Deaville, the head of Music and Culture program, who has given me much assistance along the way. -
Overview of Fashion
Chapter01 vrv Overview of Fashion 1.1 UNDERSTANDING FASHION: INTRODUCTION AND DEFINITION Fashion has become an integral part of contemporary society. It is an omnipresent aspect of our lives and is one of the focal topics of the print and electronic media, television and internet, advertisements and window displays in shops and malls, movies, music and modes of entertainment etc. Fashion is a statement that signifies societal preferences created by individual and collective identities. The key to its core strength lies in its aspiration value, which means that people aspire to be fashionable. Fashion travels across geographical boundaries, history influencing and in turn, influenced by society. Though the term 'fashion' is often used synonymously with garment, it actually has a wider connotation. A garment is not fashion merely because it is worn. To become fashion, a garment has to reflect the socio-cultural ethos of the time. As a generic term, fashion includes all products and activities related to a 'lifestyle' - clothes, accessories, products, cuisine, furniture, architecture, mode of transportation, vacations, leisure activities etc. Fig 1.1 Evening gowns by Sanjeev Sahai Creative Director of Amethysta Viola Fashion has emerged as a globally relevant area of academic study which includes various aspects of fashion design, fashion technology and fashion management. Due to the wide range of human and social aspects within its ambit, it is also a topic of scholarly study by sociologists, psychologists and anthropologists. 1 01 v r v Its multi-faceted nature leads to numerous interpretations. For an average person, fashion could generally refer to a contemporary and trendy style of dressing being currently 'in' and which is likely to become 'out' by the next season or year. -
The Use of Trend Forecasting in the Product Development Process
THE USE OF TREND FORECASTING IN THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS C TWINE PhD 2015 THE USE OF TREND FORECASTING IN THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS CHRISTINE TWINE A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the Manchester Metropolitan University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Apparel / Hollings Faculty the Manchester Metropolitan University 2015 Acknowledgements The completion of this research project owes a great deal of support and encouragement of my supervisory team, Dr. David Tyler, Dr. Tracy Cassidy as my adviser and the expert guidance of my Director of Studies Dr. Ji-Young Ruckman and Dr. Praburaj Venkatraman. Their experience and commitment provided inspiration and guidance throughout those times when direction was much needed. I am also indebted to all those who participated in the interviewing process which aided the data collection process and made this research possible. These included personnel from the trend forecasting agencies Promostyl, Mudpie, Trend Bible and the senior trend researchers from Stylesight, and Trendstop. The buyers and designers from the retailers Tesco, Shop Direct, Matalan, River Island, Mexx, Puma, Bench, Primark, H&M, ASOS and Boohoo. Thank you to my lovely family, David and Florence for their support and encouragement when I needed it most. i Declaration No portion of the work referred to in this thesis has been submitted in support of an application for another degree or qualification of this or any other university or institution of learning. Copyright© 2014 All rights reserved No part of this thesis may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the author. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
How to Build a Model Illustrating Sea-Floor Spreading and Subduction
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY How to Build a Model Illustrating Sea-Floor Spreading and Subduction by John C. Lahr Open-File Report 99-132, Paper Edition This report is preliminary and has not been reviewed for conformity with U.S. Geological Survey editorial standards. Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Denver Federal Center Box 25946, Mail Stop 966 Denver, CO 80225 Phone: (303) 273-8596 Email: [email protected] -2- In trod uct ion This report describes how to build a model of the outer 300 km (180 miles) of the Earth that can be used to develop a better understanding of the principal features of plate tectonics, including sea-floor spreading, the pattern of magnetic stripes frozen into the sea floor, transform faulting, thrust faulting, subduction, and volcanism. In addition to a paper copy of this report, the materials required are a cardboard shoebox, glue, scissors, straight edge, and safety razor blade. Structure of the Earth The Earth consists of an iron-rich core with a radius of 3,500 km (2,100 miles), surrounded by a 2,800-km- (1,680-mile-) thick mantle of mostly silicon, magnesium, and oxygen, and finally an 80-km- (50-mile-) thick lithosphere. While 96% of the volume of the core is liquid, there is a solid inner core with a radius of 1,200 km (720 miles). Electric currents within the metallic- liquid outer core create the Earth's magnetic field. -
Historic Costuming Presented by Jill Harrison
Historic Southern Indiana Interpretation Workshop, March 2-4, 1998 Historic Costuming Presented By Jill Harrison IMPRESSIONS Each of us makes an impression before ever saying a word. We size up visitors all the time, anticipating behavior from their age, clothing, and demeanor. What do they think of interpreters, disguised as we are in the threads of another time? While stressing the importance of historically accurate costuming (outfits) and accoutrements for first- person interpreters, there are many reasons compromises are made - perhaps a tight budget or lack of skilled construction personnel. Items such as shoes and eyeglasses are usually a sticking point when assembling a truly accurate outfit. It has been suggested that when visitors spot inaccurate details, interpreter credibility is downgraded and visitors launch into a frame of mind to find other inaccuracies. This may be true of visitors who are historical reenactors, buffs, or other interpreters. Most visitors, though, lack the heightened awareness to recognize the difference between authentic period detailing and the less-than-perfect substitutions. But everyone will notice a wristwatch, sunglasses, or tennis shoes. We have a responsibility to the public not to misrepresent the past; otherwise we are not preserving history but instead creating our own fiction and calling it the truth. Realistically, the appearance of the interpreter, our information base, our techniques, and our environment all affect the first-person experience. Historically accurate costuming perfection is laudable and reinforces academic credence. The minute details can be a springboard to important educational concepts; but the outfit is not the linchpin on which successful interpretation hangs. -
Women's Clothing in the 18Th Century
National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior Pickled Fish and Salted Provisions A Peek Inside Mrs. Derby’s Clothes Press: Women’s Clothing in the 18th Century In the parlor of the Derby House is a por- trait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, wearing her finest apparel. But what exactly is she wearing? And what else would she wear? This edition of Pickled Fish focuses on women’s clothing in the years between 1760 and 1780, when the Derby Family were living in the “little brick house” on Derby Street. Like today, women in the 18th century dressed up or down depending on their social status or the work they were doing. Like today, women dressed up or down depending on the situation, and also like today, the shape of most garments was common to upper and lower classes, but differentiated by expense of fabric, quality of workmanship, and how well the garment fit. Number of garments was also determined by a woman’s class and income level; and as we shall see, recent scholarship has caused us to revise the number of garments owned by women of the upper classes in Essex County. Unfortunately, the portrait and two items of clothing are all that remain of Elizabeth’s wardrobe. Few family receipts have survived, and even the de- tailed inventory of Elias Hasket Derby’s estate in 1799 does not include any cloth- ing, male or female. However, because Pastel portrait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, c. 1780, by Benjamin Blythe. She seems to be many other articles (continued on page 8) wearing a loose robe over her gown in imitation of fashionable portraits. -
UNIVERSITY of ARTS in BELGRADE Center for Interdisciplinary Studies
UNIVERSITY OF ARTS IN BELGRADE Center for Interdisciplinary studies UNESCO Chair in Cultural Policy and Management Master thesis: Project on the Museum of Fashion Establishment - Following the Clothing as a Cultural Phenomenon in the Balkans since the 18th Century Projekat osnivanja Muzeja mode, koji prati modu odevanja kao kulturološki fenomen na području Balkana od 18. veka by: Selma Kronja Supervisor: Irina Subotić, PhD Belgrade, September 2008 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Abstract 3 2. Introduction 5 3. Historical roots of the fashion development in the Balkans since the 18 th century 8 3.1. Political and geographical situation in the Balkans since the 18 th century 8 3.2. Social and cultural events that influence the global and local trends in fashion 16 3.3. Historical developments and fashion history of the population since the 18 th century till today in the Balkans 33 4. Role of the Museum of Fashion in society 49 4.1. Didactic relevance of the Museum 51 4.2. Educational and scientific role of the Museum 53 4.3. Modern concept of the Museum 56 4.4. Museum of Fashion and the media 60 5. Importance of establishing the institution for studying the fashion in the region of Balkans 66 5.1. Museum of Fashion as a unique institution in the region of Balkans 66 6. Conclusion 72 7. Bibliography 75 8. Curriculum Vitae of the author 79 1 Iris, painted by Milena Pavlović Barilli, 1928 2 ABSTRACT The main idea of the Museum of Fashion is expressing the diversity in feminine clothing since the 18 th century till today, but also the fashion of man and children, and accessories. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
Exporting Sleepwear to Europe 1. Product Description
Exporting sleepwear to Europe Last updated: 10 October 2018 The European market for sleepwear is growing. Most imports originate from developing countries. The middle to high-end segments offer you the most opportunities. Focus on design and quality to appeal to these consumers. Using sustainable fabrics and providing comfort can also give you a competitive advantage. Contents of this page 1. Product description 2. Which European markets offer opportunities for exporters of sleepwear? 3. Where is consumer demand located? 4. What is the role of European production in supplying European demand? 5. Which countries are most interesting in terms of imports from developing countries? 6. What role do exports play in supplying European demand? 7. What is the effect of real private consumption expenditure on European demand? 8. What trends offer opportunities on the European market for sleepwear? 9. What requirements should sleepwear comply with to be allowed on the European market? 10. What competition do you face on the European sleepwear market? 11. Through what channels can you put sleepwear on the European market? 12. What are the end-market prices for sleepwear? 1. Product description Sleepwear includes: adult onesie – all-in-one sleep suits worn by adults, usually cotton, similar to an infant onesie or children's blanket sleeper baby-doll – short, sometimes sleeveless, loose-fitting nightgown or negligee for women, generally designed to resemble a young girl's nightgown bathrobe – serving both as a towel and an informal garment, usually made